IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


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2.5 


1.8 


U_  III  1.6 


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>>. 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23    VEST  M«.ir  STREET 

WEBSTQs<,  >J.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


4i^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  IVIicroreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6ti  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mithode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


□    Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


□   Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommag^e 


□    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 


D 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurte  et/ou  pelliculie 


D 


Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pelliculdes 


I      I   Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  ddcolordes,  tachet^es  ou  piqu6es 


D 
D 


Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noi^e) 


□    Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d6tach6es 


\/ 


Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


D 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Qualiti  indgale  de  I'impression 


D 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 


□    Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  matdriel  suppldmentaire 


D 


D 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6tA  filmAes. 


D 
D 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  M  film6es  k  nouveau  de  facon  k 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


D 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl6mentaires: 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmi  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

SOX 

y 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


Th«  copy  filmed  hsro  has  b««n  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Seminary  of  Quebec 
Library 


L'exemplaire  film<^  fut  reproduit  grAce  d  la 
gAniro^itA  de: 

S^minaire  de  Quebec 
Bibliothdque 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  In  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  Images  suivantes  ont  At4  reproduites  avec  ie 
plus  grand  soln,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
de  la  nettet*  de  l'exemplaire  fiimA,  et  en 
conformity  avec  las  conditions  du  contrat  de 
fllmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  era  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  Illustrated  Impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustraiad  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  Impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim^e  sont  fllm6s  en  commenpant 
par  Ie  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impresslon  ou  d'illustratlon,  soit  par  ie  second 
plat,  salon  Ie  cas.  Tous  las  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmte  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impresslon  ou  d'lilustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  y  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

IVIaps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Un  des  symboles  sulvants  apparaltra  sur  la 
dernlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  seion  ie 
cas:  ie  symbols  -^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  ie 
symbols  ▼  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
fiimte  it  des  taux  de  reduction  diff^rents. 
Lorsque  Ie  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cllchA,  II  est  f  iimi  i  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  Ie  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  sulvants 
lllustrent  la  mithode. 


1  2  3 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

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THE 


NORTHERN  TRAVELLER, 


AND 


NORTHERN  TOUR: 


WITH  THE  ROUTES  TO 


y-  ...■■• 


THE  SPRINGS,  NIAGARA,  AND  QUEBEC,  g 


Alio  tB« 


CPMi  MINES  OF  PBNNSyLYANUi,^5^'^;:U 


•I'^iftjr  'J  ,.j-«l-'v 


ALIO,  TEE  .      .       a^i-ii-!^^'^3.  WHi 

,.„,..,  TOUR  ^f ' NEw^nctiinif. 'ty;::,'? '' "* 

>**■■"^'■  -•    •  -■        -      ■ -.  .  .'*»«ti '..'{♦  5n  >.  I,  . 

h%  in  ■?««':!(ijfn:'.iff!>}r4-«4(  liil  f-!.fl-  art Ir-i -ii'- 1  .J*!*  itj4  -si  •.•»;;i.<M(j('}i{).f  ...  V)'\ 

NEW  EDITION;        '   '■j#Ji*'..'Hijfeiu  a^jid'iw 
Embellished  with  numerous  Copperplate  Engravings:^    ' 


NEW-YORK : 


;'"^^.' 


PRINTED  BY  J.  &  J.  HARPER,  83  CLIFF-STREET. 

Sold  by  Collins  dc  Hannay,  Collins  &  Co.,  O.  A.  Roorbach,  W.  B. 
GUley,  E.  Bliss,  A.  T.  Goodrich,  C.  8.  Francis;— Boston, Richardson, 
Lord,  and Holbrook,  HUliard,  Gray,  &  Co.,  Carters  Hendee,  Crocker 
A;  Brewster,  R.  P.  &  C.  WilliaoM  ;-Philadelphla,  Carey  &  Hart,  J. 
Grigg,  Towar  &  Hogan,  U.  Hunt  j-Baltimore,  W.  &  J.  NsalL  J, 
Jewett,  Cnshing  A  Sons.  ^■■■ 


1831. 


* 


ijini.  iiiiiiiiiMimii[i'if'»'>" 


Southern  District  of  New- York,  ss. 

BE  IT  REMEMBERED,  That  on  the  twenty-second  day  of  AprlJ, 
A.D.  1830,  in  the  fifty-fourth  year  of  the  Independence  of  the  United 
Btates  of  America,  J.  &.  J.  Harper,  of  the  said  District,  have  deposited 
in  this  office  the  title  of  a  Book,  the  right  whereof  they  claim  as  proprie- 
tors, in  tlie  words  following,  to  wit : 

"  The  Northern  Traveller  and  Northern  Tour,  with  the  Routes  to  the 
Springs,  Niagara,  and  Cluebec,  and  the  Coal  Mines  of  Pennsylvania; 
also,  the  Tour  of  New-England.  Embellished  with  thirty-two  Copper- 
plate Engravings. 

In  conformity  to  the  act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States,  entitled 
"An  act  for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  secuiiiig  the  copies  of 
maps,  charts,  and  books  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies, 
during  the  times  therein  mentioned."  And  also  to  the  act,  entitled  "An 
art  supplementary  to  an  act,  entitled  an  act  for  the  encouragement  of 
learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  maps,  charts,  and  hool^s  to  the  authors 
and  proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  times  therein  mentioned,  and 
extending  the  benefits  thereof  to  the  arts  of  designing,  engraving,  and 
etching  historical  and  other  prints." 

FREDERICK  I.  BETTS, 
Clerk  of  the  Southern  District  of  New-York. 


PREFACE. 


Great  exertions  have  been  made  to  obtain  ac- 
counts of  all  changes  that  have  taken  place  on  the 
various  routes  embraced  within  the  range  of  the 
Northern  Traveller  since  the  publication  of  the  last 
edition,  as  well  as  to  add  all  necessary  remarks 
on  such  subjects  as  had  before  escaped  notice  ;  and 
it  will  be  found  that  few  pages  have  been  passed 
without  the  insertion  of  something  new,  while  many 
have  been  entirely  written  over  again,  and  consid- 
erable additions  have  been  made. 

The  rapid  sale  which  may  now  be  calculated  on, 
in  connexion  with  other  circumstances,  have  ena- 
bled the  publishers,  this  season,  to  offer  the  work 
at  a  greatly  reduced  price,  while  additions  have 
been  made  to  its  embellishments. 

The  plan  of  the  "  Northern  Traveller"  was  ori- 
ginally suggested  by  a  reflection  on  the  immense 
numbers  of  intelligent  persons  who  annually  visit 
the  most  interesting  scenes  in  our  Northern  and 
Middle  States ;  and  a  knowledge  of  the  great 
advantages  which  are  derived  from  works  of  a 
corresponding  description  in  Europe.  No  pains 
have  been  spared  to  render  it  useful,  as  well  as  in- 
teresting ;  and  as  far  as  the  necessary  brevity  would 
permit,  the  peculiar  character  of  our  citizens,  and 
the  nature  of  the  country  have  been  kept  in  view 
in  the  plan  and  scope  of  the  work. 

,  New-York,  1831. 


Proi 
(( 

ii 

tt 

City 
Fror 

u 

City 
Pron 

«( 

City 
City 


Sconr 

iVia<),\ 

Ballst 

Sarat( 

Lake 

Ticon 

Mouni 


P   wp*^^  ■  ai^ 


GEJ^ KH AL   INDhlX. 


Oity  ot  New- York 

Prom  Now- York  to  Ninj(arii  .... 

"  "  to  the  Springs  .         .       20— -55. 

"  "  to  Canada    .         .         .    do. 

"  **  to  Connecticut  River  and  / 

the  Wliito  Mountains    S 
"  to  Boston     .         .       2'16— 258. 

City  of  Philadelphia  .... 
From  Philadelphia  to  New- York    . 

"  "  to  the  Coal  Mines 

City  of  Boston 

From  Boston  to  the  Springs 

"        "        to  the  White  Mountains     . 

"        "        to  Maine 
City  of  Washington        .... 
Citv  of  Baltimore        .... 


I'agf. 

I2t» 
do. 

21)7 
402 
4.32 
414 
318 
:J29 

33a 

362 
38:'. 
389 


VIKWS  FROM   NATIJRK. 

.  {Jiicmg  litle. ) 


5/ 


Ouuj4 less  Hall     . 

Scenorvon  the  iNlohawk  River 

Niagiua,  from  l)elow  the  Cataract       .        ,         .8* 

Ballston 14^ 

Saratoga    .         , 153 

Lake  George 166 

Ticonderoga       .......  179 

Mount  Holyoke 276 

The  Notcli  or  WjJlev.Hoiise.  (Whitp  Mountains^  3.«i4 


"•■»''p)f 


Vlll 


(VKINKKAL    lMi>J^X. 


MAPS. 

General  Map  of  the  Routes 

Hudson  River,  No.  1 

"  "       No.  2 

«  "       No.3 

"  "       No.  4,  Canals  to  Schenectady  ( 

and  Sandy  Hill  ) 

Erie  Canal,  to  Herkimer    .... 


(( 


(( 


it 

u 

u 


(( 
(( 
(( 
(( 


9 
20 
24 
31 

48 


56 
62 
68 
72 
109 


to  Salina 

to  Rochester  .... 
to  Lockport,  and  Road  to  Niagara 
to  Buffalo  .... 
to  Lyons,  and  Road  by  Geneva,  &c.  116 
to  Syracuse,  and  Road  by  Auburn  121 
From  Fort  Edward  to  Whitehall  and  Lake  George  163 
Lake  George  and  Lake  Champlain     .        .        .176 

Lake  Champlain 190 

St.  John's  to  Montreal 194 

Island  of  Montreal 206 

St.  Lawrence  River,  from  Montreal  to  Quebec   .  212 
Connecticut  River,  from  Hertford  to  the  Mouth    266 


11     I 


4 


TUB 


NORTHERX  TRAVELLER 


THE  CITY  OF  NEW- YORK* 

Hotels  and  Boarding  Houses.  The  Adelphi  and 
the  Atlantic,  opposite  the  Bowling-Green.  Man- 
sion House,  (Bunker,)  39  Broadway.  City  Hotel. 
National  Hotel.  Franklin  House.  American  Ho- 
tel. Clinton  Hotel.  Washington  Hotel,  corner  of 
Broadway  and  Reed-street.  Mrs.  Southard,  Mrs. 
Mann,  Mrs.  Keese,  &c.  There  are  also  the  U.  S. 
Hotel,  Tontine,  Bank,  and  N.  Y.  Coffee  Houses, 
Tammany  Hall,  Pearl-st.  House,  N.  Y.  Hotel,  &c. 

The  stranger  is  advised  to  purchase  a  pocket  map 
of  the  city,  if  he  is  to  remain  here  a  few  days ;  as 
without  it  he  will  often  find  himself  at  a  loss. 

The  Battery  is  a  pleasant  walk  in  warm  weather ; 
and  Castle  Garden  has  a  fine  promenade.  On  sum- 
mer evenings  the  place  is  supplied  with  music,  and 
often  fireworks. 

Steamboats  for  Philadelphia.  The  boats  of  the 
Union  and  Citizen's  Lines  start  from  the  wharf  just 
north  of  the  Battery,  in  Washington-street,  at  6  A.  M. 
and  at  noon.     Boats  for  Long  Branch,  same  place. 

7%e  Staten  Island  Steamboats  go  from  the  foot  of 
Whitehall-street,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  Battery. 

Broadway^  the  most  fashionable  promenade  in  the 
city,  is  most  crowded  with  passengers  between  1 
and  3  o'clock ;  or,  in  hot  weather,  after  dinner. 
Going  up  from  the  Battery,  you  pass  the  Bowling- 


CITY  OF   NEW-YOKK. 


\\ 


Oreen,  the  Atlantic  Hotel,  the  Adelphi  House,  many 
genteel  boarding  houses,  particularly  the  Mansion 
House ;  and  then  Grace  church,  and  Trinity  church. 

The  property  of  this  church  is  very  great,  lying 
in  large  tracts  of  land  now  covered  by  tlie  city  streets. 
Opposite,  opens  Wall-street,  which  contains  the  first 
Presbyterian  Church,  most  of  the  banks,*  with  the 
Branch  of  the  U.  S.  Bank,  together  with  numerous 
Insurance  and  Brokers^  Offices, 

The  JVeW'Yo7'k  Exchange.  This  building  is  of 
white  marble  from  Westchester,  and  fronts  Wall- 
street,  between  William  and  Pearl-streets.  It  has 
four  marble  columns  in  front,  made  of  single  shafts. 
The  exchange  room  is  large,  and  resorted  to  by  mer- 
chants between  1  and  3  o'clock.  The  building  con- 
tains the  Post  Office  on  the  ground  floor,  the  Com" 
mercial  Reading  Booms  Qbove,  with  se\ern\  Insurance 
Offices,  and  the  offices  of  Daily  Papers.^  There  is 
a  telegraph  on  the  top  to  communicate  with  Sandy 
Hook,  to  get  early  intelligence  of  vessels.  On  ar- 
riving, they  show  flags  by  which  they  may  be  desig- 
nated 30  miles  from  Staten  Island.  The  view  from 
the  cupola  embraces  the  whole  city. 

Returning  to  Broadway,  beyond  Trinity  church  is 
the  City  Hotel;  opposite,  the  JVational Hotel;  (in  Nas- 
sau-street, the  City  Library,  admission  to  read  free 
to  all ;)  and  a  little  further  Cedar  and  Courtlandt- 


*  According  to  Goddard's  statement  there  are  16  banks  in  the  city  of 
New- York,  whicli  have  an  ai;gregate  capital  of  $18,130,000.  'J'hie  in- 
cludes the  branch  or  the  U.  States  Bank,  witli  $^,500,000  capital.  One 
of  these  having  been  lately  established,  paid  no  dividend,  and  another 
appropriated  its  profits  to  the  Hudson  and  Delaware  Canal. — The  other 
fourteen  made  dividends  amounting  to  $1,037,700,  and  averaging  a  little 
over  5|  per  cerit.  There  are  eight  Marine  Insurance  Companies  in 
New- York,  with  an  aggregate  capital  of  $3,050,000.  Six  only  paid 
dividends,  amounting  to  $403,000,  and  averaging  on  their  respective 
capitals,  15^  per  cent. 

f  According  to  Mr.  Williams's  IN ew- York  Annual  Register,  there  are 
in  this  city,  51  newspapers— of  wliich  11  are  daily,  10  pemi-weekly,  24 
weekly,  5  appear  once  in  two  weeks,  and  1  monthly,  and  th«  number 
of  sheets  printed  annually  is  9,53(5,000.  It  is  believed,  that  in  other 
parts  of  the  State  of  New- York,  33,000  reams  of  paper  pass  through  the 
periodical  press.    In  the  state  and  city  there  are  about  Sll  newspapers. 


l^.. 


CITY   or  NEW- YORK.  3 

streetSf  leading  west  to  the  docks  on  Hudson  river, 
whence  some  of  the  Albany  steamboats  start.  At  the 
latter  street  is  also  the  Jersey  City  Ferry — Is. 

The  Franklin  Home^  corner  of  Dey-st.  and  Broad- 
way. Fulton-street  leads  to  Fulton  Market,  on  the 
East  river.  (There  is  the  lower  Brooklyn  ferry, — 4 
cents ;  at  the  next  dock  below,  are  the  JVewport  and 
Providence  steamboats;  and  just  above,  tke  steam^ 
boats  for  Flushing,  JVorwalk,  Stamford,  Bridgeport, 
Stratford,  New-London,  and  Norwich,) 

Scudder'^s  American  Museum,  corner  of  Anne-street 
and  Broadway,  is  the  most  extensive  in  the  United 
States,  and  is  liighly  interesting. 

St.  PauVs  Church  in  Broadway  is  next  above  Ful- 
ton-street. A  monument  was  raised  in  the  portico 
of  this  church  some  years  ago,  to  General  Mont- 
gomery; and  in  1818  the  remains  of  that  brave  offi- 
cer were  brought  from  Quebec  and  deposited  here 
with  military  honours.  Just  beyond,  is  Pajfs  Exhi- 
bition  of  Pictures,  then  the  Park,  opposite  which 
is  the  Theatre,  near  which  is  Clinton  Hall,  and  the 
Bible  Society^s  Depository*  in  the  rear.  Clinton 
Hall  was  erected  principally  for  that  noble  institu- 
tion, the  Mercantile  Library  Association,  and  contains 
the  Library,  Lecture  Hall,  &c. — 28,000  volumes  were 
delivered  the  last  year.  In  the  same  street  {Nassau) 
is  the  American  Tract  Society^s  building.f  Park 
Place,  on  Broadway — where  are  Coleman'' s  Literary 


iTC  are 
kly,  24 


*  Opposite  the  Depository  is  a  workshop,  erected  in  1827,  where  a 
steam  engine  is  sii.  ')n  tiie  first  floor.  It  works  eight  power  presses, 
on  wiiich  Bibles  are  printed:  on  the  second  story  are  twenty  other 
presses.  The  power  presses  do  double  the  work  of  the  cornmon  press; 
and  all  togeilier  can  print  4C0  reams  of  paper  in  a  week.  Seventy-one 
persons  arc  employed  in  this  department.  In  the  other  building,  the 
binding  is  done  by  112  persons.  A  new  workshop  is  to  be  erected, 
instead  of  the  present,  adjoining  the  Depository. 

The  receipts  of  the  A  met  ican  Hible  Society  during  the  yewrending 
1st  May,  1830,  were  $'.U)n,2J)l  15;  expenditures,  $892,448  34.  They 
had  printed,  in  1830,  ],0a4,.5]3  Bibles  and  Testaments. 

t  In  the  American  Tract  Society's  house  are  ten  common,  and  four 
power  presBcs,  driven  by  mules. 


riTV    OF    NKW  Y(>UK. 


'.\\u\  llu'  (»v  Hull  \H  in  1Ih»  I*;uK,  \\\\\\  llin  lirnintrv*!i 
()(h<r  on  \\h\  i^mhI,  and  HviiltKrll  on  (lie  ucnI,.  Hur- 
^lM^-^<t^•^M'l  1(';uIh  U)  ilohokrn  /'Vrry,  «nul  ilic  Alluiny 
Blr.'nnhnMlH.* 

rii'inros. 

'VUo  Siiviniis  lu\nk  is  i>n  tlu»op|Mmit(»BiiltM)f  (Miinn- 
luMH-sinuM.  (TluMo  wvw  tl<MH»mh'H  nnulc'  ni  \i\'i\\ 
to  \\\o  'M\\o\\[\\  of  $(\v''l,«UU),  i»y  U.O.n  in<livijhiMl«, 
:\lnu>sl  ;dl  poor  pfrsonN.)  .\«lionunn  il  Mir  lIu'.Yciii'- 
lor.V  Hoihs  i\\u\  [\w  .hu'tuh  luUhf,\\\\w\\t\\o  fonnno- 
«lu>\«s  i\\\y\  \\c\\  ;UttM\tl(Ml,  Willi  s«*p;u;ilo  f'nhanrcrt 
lo5\<lnvjr  to  tho  linluvs'  hMilis.  'V\\o  A\ttii)unl  jlcadnni/ 
iind  lh(^  i^ijcruni  mv  \v\\\o\v{\U}  Clinton  //«r//,  ami  llio 
AlnihiUtou  )}  iitvr  ilorks  \\\v  jnsf  at  lunnl.  Troni  llio 
\'M\ov  ;i  ronsi»ltM"al)l(*  portion  ol"  tho  ihvdiinjis  in  tlio 
lo\v<M'  part  ot"  tin*  oity  ai(>  Hupnliod  with  wati^r,  tlion^li 
not  of  vtM\v  jjoiul  ipialily.  Tlio  Uotmuhi  is  (Icvotod 
to  i\w  Marmi'  t'onrl. 

( A  short  *livstan»'0  oaslwanl,  (^hanilxM'H-Htroct  l(>a«lB 
to  (^hathaiu-strrc^t :  thon  tnrniiij;  to  thr  h'lY  yon  may 
prvMMHvl  (o  (iio  (7i(j//i«i/»j  'VhviUn\  (Ihifhant-squdre, 
\\\c  />\)»\rrv.  tlu^  /)«)rcrrv  Thratir,  \»*.  \o.| 

On  \\\o  kWUvv  haiul,  rhamluMs-sln'c't  U^ads  W('st- 
wai\l  to  iho  llihlson  rivrr ;  ami  at  tlui  foot  of  VVar- 
lYU-stroot,  next  brlow  il,  is  ji  rublic  Marine  Hath* 


*  T\w  t\>n.>>viO)i  li!»l  oC  SUntmhthUf  n\  Now  York  in  puMlnluMl  lit  Wit- 
lUins'.*  .\))lul.^l  Ko^islrr.    'Vlw  usiomktt  t>lio\v  uuotlU'itil  Hlnli^nniln  of 

Tho  Nonh  Ainoiic.H  Is  1>2  lW\  ItMip.  nmi  UM'asmos  -IIHl  lonn;  (ho  Al- 
bany, *\M  Hvl,  :HH»  tons;  .Now  riiiljulolttlili,  l.V»  loot,  '2«il  ions;  Do 
Win  rihiton.  UU)  tool,  '^V^  \oi\»  :  Ohio,  \M  t\  ot.lhi  U\m,  ('onsUlnllon, 
V^>  Ttvt.  "JTO  lon>;  I'onstoHuiion,  l\i',>  tool,  'J7.i  tons;  Chiof  .lnNit<'o  M»i- 
shall,  III  tt^M.  3U  tons;  roMunoioo,  KHl  tVol.x'tW)  I  oiks  ;  Now-Jiondoii, 
'U>S  Toot,  lS;i  tons;  Uouiy  VVkloul,  *10H  Icoi,  ITkI  tons;  liOjjIslrtlor, 
*U>4  toot.  iTOions:  tJonoiiil  J,(oks»Mi,  114  loot,  171  tons;  J;\inos  Fniilio, 
9\  t\vt,  VU  tons  .  Tonjrivss,  *lvM  toot,  1(>7  toi\s  ;  vSaiulusky,  KW  (ool,'i.^9 
nms;  Vioioiy.  KW  loot,  \KHl  t«»ns ;  Olivoluanoli,  Vii  tool,  :UK)  tons; 
Ku-hnh>n<l,  l.V>  loot.  ;Cl  tons;  J;uuos  Kont,  \X\  toot,  UU)  tonn ;  Sain- 
U>s:.«,  iV*  tVvt,  l.V.1  tons  ;  l)ian»;o,  S.*»  toot,  Vi-i  tons  ;  F.xpoiiniont,  91  foot, 
VMs  tons  ;  n.Uiiutoro,  •100  lotit,  100  ioii«  ;  Tiatispoit,  74  fwt,  »i  loni, 
§,400  loub— '^O  boau. 


MTV    nV    NICW  YOIIK.  6 

KrlnniiiiK**  nml  /roin(r  on  tip  nnmdwny,  you  pnnn 

\\t\H\u\\l\\o\\  llnlcl.  I  hinillC  Ht,l('(<l  |l*il(lM,  (Ml  llin 
Irll,  (o  liii(i>rrs  Alrihinl  f '<;//r/|r,  Miid  a  I'uhUr  Svhtinl^ 
on  till*  |)rniini|-l1iMi]'  nl'  wliidi  ih  mm  Infant  Srliaol.\ 
Alitsitniv  Hii'l  jmkI  (lir  .N'lt^i'-Ynrk  llos/ntfil.  nnMilittln 
1)1)  omi;  \\u'  ./Ww-Yinli  JMnfirnni.  Ih  Hi  tlin  conmr  of 
Aiillium  hIutI. 

Ilroiuhvtiy  ('oMtiiiiirFi  nhiMii  n  iiiilo  and  a  luilf  fur- 
(III  r  on,  prrlcclly  hIi!ii(iIiI,  mimI  nr:irly  '.ill  built  with 
hi'ick  Iioiihcm;  ImiI  roiiliiniH  no  pnlilir  (ibjociiH  c*x<!('pt 
Nihlo'M  llolrl  imhI  (inrdcn,  ;i  ii(!\v  (lotliic.  cltUK^Ii,  and 
\  :in\linll  (inrdcnN. 

A  line  pjirl.  <d"  llir  rily  li<'H  n(»rl,li-\vnHt  from  the 
liOHpilid,  nl)oiil  UinLsnn-sffiinrr,  Tim  MlnudH  urn  Uioro 
nunc  n  iinlnr,  iind  llir  nipiiiic  ilHrlf  In  V(!ry  i\\u%  with 
Nl.  .IoImTh  clnircli  in  lionl.,  winch  Iiuh  tlio  talluHt 
Npirr  in  Nrw-N'ork. 

Amoiiy  llir  oilier  pnhli<*-  l»iiildin|jrH  urv  tlir  Dinpon- 
n:\r\  in  VVIiili'-NlncI,  tint  Ifoinun  (hit.liolic.  (/Ulliodral, 
Mild  llic  innnrnniH  pliiccH  of  public,  worHliip  in  all 
pMilH  of  i.\\v  city.*  'I'Ik^  St<i(r  Vrlmn^  l*(niifMliary, 
I'hrr  llos/n'liil,  Ihntse  of  lir/ii.^r.  for  JuveniU  Delii^ 
iliirnis.Or^tliitn  (tud  Liinalir  Jlsijli'ima :  Mujho  arc  all  at 
:i  dislaiKM*  iVoiM  llie  crnlrc  of  tin;  city. 

I*iil)lir  Srhno/s.  Tlic  riihlir  Srli(nU  Society  liave 
(M^ht  l:ir^<»  Uiick  Iioiihch  in  ^lillcnMit  jmrtH  of  the 
cily,  Jivcr;ij^inn  mIiouI.  '\'l  liy  J55  (cct  in  Hizcj,  valued 
\\\\\\  Ihcir  rnrnilniH^  .it  alMMit  $ir)(),000  dollarB;  and 
the  cncuinbranccH,  lor  innimy  horrowed,  about 
!!!<r)0,000.     About  5000  cbildnMi  j'lrn  oducatod  at  these 


III, 


*  ('ni'itrnTC-^,  --'rii(>r(»ilovvln«i8ili(!liNt(»f("liurc.h(!BliMhccltyof  New- 
York,  |)iililislit'(i  ill  IKtd. 

rriHliyit'iiiiii,  ill  ri)iiiii'.viiiii  willi  llii;  (•citcrnl  AHuniilily,  21 ;  do.  not- 
iiicuiiiii Mdii,  ;t;  Wct'oriiifd  OiiK-li,  14;  Tiik!  RcroniK'il  Oiilcii,  1;  EplH- 
copal,  'il  ;  ISiiiitiNt,  i:(;  iln,  iiol  in  coiiiicxion  Willi  llii!  ntxivu,  4;  Mettio- 
(lisi,  10;  Assdriali'il  Mrtlioili  t, 'i;  liKlrpciKtcni,  IVI«>tlio(lii*t,  8;  Roman 
("iitlinlic,  J;  Fiicnd-*,  1;  Liillu'inii,  3;  .lew,  :i;  lii(lcp«;iuJ«til,,  2 ;  Unl- 
vci'siiiisi, '2  ;  I 'iiituiiiin, 'J  ;  Moniviiiii,  I  ;  Mm iiicrri*,  I ;  Hwrdeiiborginn, 
I;  (•t'lDiiiii  Uctoiiiit'il,  I,— 'I'liiiil,  115. 

or  ilic  iiliovc,  si\  lire  rxciiiHivt'iy  lor  (iiloiircd  pi^rsoriH.  The  largi'lt 
cliurcli  III  iNuw-YorU  Im  Uiu  Uuuiaii  <  iiUiolic  Uallivdial— aita,  U,(K)0  l'«et. 

JJ2 


■I^S^ 


!  t 


tf. 


6 


CITY  or  NEW- YORK. 


schools,  most  of  whom  pay  a  small  sum,  from  S6 
cents  to  $1  25  per  quarter ;  but  none  are  excluded 
who  are  unable  to  pay.  The  schools  are  furnished 
with  maps,  globes,  libraries,  &c. ;  and  a  uniform  sys- 
tem, after  the  Lancasterian  plan,  is  adopted  in  them 
all.*  Two  of  them  are  for  Africans.  The  Hiffh 
School  receives  scholars  in  higher  branches.  The 
Infant  Schools  are  highly  interesting  institutions. 
The  Sunday  Schools  deserve  particular  notice  for 
their  usefulnt^ss ;  also  the  Mechanics'  Society's 
School. 

The  AthenoBum  is  a  literary  institution.  The  City 
Library  is  large,  and  there  are  others  belonging  to 
the  Societies  of  Merchants'  Clerks,  Apprentices,  &c. 
There  are  Circulating  Libraries  at  several  of  the 
Bookstores  in  Broadway  and  elsewhere. 

The  New-York  University  has  been  incorporated, 

*  Common  School  Fund  and  Common  Schools  in  the  State  of  NeW' 
York.— The  tbundatioii  of  the  Cuiniiioii  Scliool  Fund  for  the  State  of 
New-York  was  laid  in  the  year  1809,  and  the  iirst  disirtbution  of  the 
income  took  place  in  1816. 

The  productive  capital  uf  this  fund  is  invested  in  bonds  and  mort- 
gages, canal  and  bank  stocks,  and  nowaniounta  to  $1,696,743,  and  pro- 
duces an  income  of  $100,678. 

The  State  owns  880,000  acres  of  Innd,  valued  at  $411,288,  which 
lands  are,  by  the  Constitution  of  tiie  State,  pledfred  for  the  support  of 
common  schools.  This  gives  a  grand  total  of  $2,042,113,  exclusive  of 
the  local  school  fund,  and  of  a  large  capital  denominated  tlic^  "Literary 
Fund;"  the  income  fr«)m  which  is  annually  paid  towards  the  support 
of  colleges  and  academics. 

In  IrtiK),  $239,713  was  paid  towards  the  support  of  common  scliools 
— of  this  sum  $100,000  was  paid  from  the  State  Treasury.  The  school 
law  requires  that  a  sum  shall  be  assessed  on  their  taxable  inhabitanta 
equal  to  the  sum  which  is  paid  from  the  State  Treasury  to  each  town, 
and  by  a  vote  at  llieir  town  meetings  double  the  amount  may  be 
raised  by  tax. 

There  were  56  counties,  742  cities,  towns,  and  wards,  every  one  of 
whici)  made  detailed  official  returns  of  tlieir  schools  to  the  Secretary  of 
State,  in  1827. 

The  number  of  school  districts  in  1830,  was  9062,  the  schools  in  which 
contained  497,.503  children,  who  were  taught  on  an  average  eight 
months.  In  1829,  480,825  children  were  taught  in  the  common  schools, 
at  an  expense  to  tlie  public  ot  $511,888  for  teachers'  pay  alone. 

The  private  schools  in  the  State  of  New-York  are  also  very  numer- 
ous, and  it  is  a  low  estimate  to  suppose  the  «um  of  $500,000  dollars  is 
annually  expended  in  the  State  for  schools. 

In  169i,  276,583  votes  were  polled  in  the  State  of  New- York. 


h.- 


CITY   OP  NEW- YORK. 


and  possesses  a  fund  of  above  one  hundred  thousand 
dollars.  It  is  expected  to  be  in  operation  in  a  few 
months.  The  libraries  and  cabinets  of  the  Histori- 
cal Society,  the  Lyceum,  &c.,  are  to  be  connected 
with  it. 

The  Fire  Engines  are  remarkable  for  their  beauty 
and  excellence,  as  the  Fire  Department  is  for  its 
efficiency  and  usefulness.  There  are  49  engines, 
besides  five  Hook  and  Ladder  companies. 

The  City  Hall  contains  the  Common  Counoil  cham- 
ber, with  portraits  of  Washington,  Hamilton,  Jay, 
and  George  Clinton ;  court  rooms,  the  police  office, 
&c.  &c.  The  top  commands  a  fine  view  of  the 
city,  and  access  may  be  had  on  applying  to  the 
keeper. 

The  Liverpool,  London^  and  Havre  Packets  are  fine 
vessels,  and  some  of  them  among  the  most  elegantly 
furnished  ships  in  the  world.  They  lie  at  different 
docks  in  the  East  River ;  and  the  Liverpool  sail  on 
the  1st,  8th,  16th,  and  24th  of  every  month,  and  re- 
turning, leave  Liverpool  on  the  same  days.  The 
Havre  packets  sail  on  the  1st,  10th,  and  20th.    The 

Results  of  the  late  Census.— We  subjoin  the  population  of  thirteen 
States  and  two  Territories,  as  determined  by  tlie  late  censu.«.  The 
population  of  Ohio  is  not  asct^rlaiaed  with  perfect  exactness.  The  city 
of  New- York  contains  207,021. 

1820.  18.30.  Increase. 

Maine   298,335 399,383 101,048 

Kew-Hanipshire    244,161 .269,533 2.5,3-2 

Vermont 2:15,764 280,679 44,930 

Wassaciiusetts    523,237. .: 610,014 86,727 

Rhode-Island 83,059 97,226 14,167 

Connecticut 27.5,248 297,726 22,478 

New-York  1,372,812 1,934,396 562,584 

New-Jersey 277,575 317,779 40,203 

Delaware 72,749 76,7.39 3,990 

Alabama 127,901 309,502 181,601 

Louisiana    1.53,407 214,693 61,286 

Ohio 581,434 937,000 355,566 

Illinois 55,211 161,055 105,844 

Arkansas  Territory  ....  14,276 30,380 16,104 

Michigan  Territory  ....     8,896 31,698 ii2,802 

The  population  of  Pennsylvania,  exclusive  of  Lyconiinp  county,  fronr 
which  rt'tiirns  have  not  been  received,  is  l,332,7'i5;  being  an  incrensQ 
of  306,76:2.    The  population  of  Lycoming  county  in  1826,  was  13,517. 


!\\ 


_    I 


8 


CITY   OP   NEW-YORK. 


letter  bags  are  kept  at  the  bar  of  the  Tontine  Coffee 
House. — 6d.  for  every  letter. 

Commerce  of  New-York.  Jn  1830,  there  were  1510 
foreign  arrivals,  of  which  318  were  ships.  1366 
were  American  vessels — 72  British.  30,224  passen- 
gers arrived  that  year. 

Excursions.*  Numerous  pleasant  excursions  may 
be  made  from  New- York  in  various  directions. 
Manhattan  Island  affords  several  agreeable  rides ; 
and  also  Long  Island  and  the  neighbouring  parts  of 
New-Jersey. 

Prince's  Ltinncean  Garden  at  Flushing.  The  ex- 
cursion to  this  beautiful  garden  and  nursery  is  very 
pleasant.  The  steamboat  leaves  Fulton-street  slip 
at  hours  particularized  every  day  in  the  newspapers, 
and  affoids  a  view  of  the  most  interesting  parts  of 

*  Rtitea  of  Hackney  Coaches. — By  the  let  section  of  the  law  for  regu- 
lating Hackney  Carriages,  it  is  ordained  tliat  tlie  rates  of  prices  to  be 
taken  by  the  owners  or  drivers  of  hackney  carriages  on  the  stands  tfurein 
mentioned,  viz.  Trinity  Church  and  Park,  for  the  conveyance  of  pas- 
sengers, sliall  be  as  follows,  viz : 

$  Ct9i 

For  any  distance  not  exceeding  one  mile,  for  each  person 00  25 

For  any  distance  over  one  mile,  and  within  the  Lamp  and  Watch 

District,  for  a  single  passenger 00  50 

For  two  passengers,  each 00  37 

For  each  additional  passenger 00  25 

For  attending  a  funeral  in  town  2  00 

For  one  or  more  passengers,  not  exceeding  four,  around  the  first, 

or  Sandy  Hill  tour 1 1  00 

For  one  or  more  passengers,  not  exceeding  four,  around  the  sec- 
ond, or  Love-lane  tour 2  00 

For  one  or  more  passengers,  not  exceeding  four,  around  the  third, 

or  Lake's  tour 2  50 

For  one  or  more  passengers,  not  exceeding  four,  around  the 

fourth,  or  Apthorp's  tour 4  00 

For  one  or  more  passengers,  not  exceeding  four,  to  Harleem  and 

back 4  00 

For  one  or,j»ore  passengers,  not  exceeding  four,  to  King's  Bridge 

and  back,  with  tl>e  privilege  of  keeping  the  carriage  all  day. . .  5  00 
And  whenever  Hackney  Carriages  shall  be  hired  or  paid  by  time,  or 

detained,  the  rates  or  prices  shall  be  as  follows:  that  is  to  say, 
For  any  lime  not  exceeding  one  hour CO  75 

and  in  proportion  for  a  irreaier  or  less  time. 

The  penally  for  demanding  a  higher  fare  than  the  preceding  is  Ten 
Dollars  ;  for  refusing  to  be  employed  when  disengagt^d,  Ten  Dollars  ; 
and  for  not  having  a  copy  of  the  rates  in  each  carriage,  Fifteen  Dollars. 


schooley's  mountain. 


the  East  River,  including  the  famous  rapids  at  Hurl 
Gate.  The  village  is  small  but  pleasant.  The  gar- 
den of  Mr.  Prince  will  supply  strangers  of  taste 
and  science  with  rare  seeds,  plants,  flowers,  and 
trees,  and  has  already  done  much  to  introduce  use- 
ful and  beautiful  varieties  into  this  country.  It  was 
first  established  about  the  middle  of  the  last  century. 

The  four  hot-houses  contain  about  20,000  plants  m 
pots ;  an('  the  garden  covers  at  least  30  acres.  The 
species  and  varieties  of  trees  and  plants  amount  to 
about  5000,  which  is  considered  the  most  numerous 
collection  in  America.  The  proprietor  exerts  him- 
self to  obtain  all  the  native  productions,  as  well  as 
all  interesting  exotics,  and  for  specimens  forwarded 
to  him  he  offers  to  make  satisfactory  returns  from 
his  own  collection.  He  had  in  1827,  127  varieties 
of  apples,  202  of  pears,  cherries  76,  plums  139,  and 
peaches  84. 

The  Navy  Yard,  at  Brooklyn.     See  "  East  River,^^* 

Bath,  Rockaway,  and  Gravesend,  on  Long  Island, 
and  Long  Branch  (Hotels  by  Renshaw  and  Sears) 
in  New- Jersey,  fine  situations  on  the  seacoast,  are 
among  the  most  attractive  for  bathing,  &c. 

A  steamboat  leaves  the  north  end  of  the  Battery 
in  the  morning  for  Red  Bank,  35  m.,  where  carriages 
wait  to  take  passengers  to  Long  Branch,  5  m.  This 
is  a  very  fashionable  resort. 

Schoohy^^  Mountain  is  a  very  fashionable  resort 

*  The  American  JVa»y.— The  whole  number  of  vessels  in  commig- 
sion  in  1830,  was  20,  viz.  4  frigates  of  the  first  class,  11  sloops  of  war 
of  the  first  class,  and  5  schooners.  The  number  in  ordinary  was  17, 
four  of  which  were  ships  of  the  line,  9G's  and  74'8.  Ttie  estimated  cost 
of  the  thorough  repair  of  the  ships  in  ordinary,  $1,210,140. 

The  number  of  vessels  on  the  stoclis  was  12,  of  which  five  were 
sliips  of  the  line,  and  the  remainder  frigates  of  the  first-lass.  They 
were  under  houses,  and  generally  in  a  good  state  of  preservation. 

The  estimate  for  the  support  of  the  navy  during  the  year  1831,  in- 
cluding repairs  of  vessels  in  ordinary,  improvements  of  navy  yards, 
&e.  in  addition  to  the  unexpended  balance,  is  $2,649,397  29. 

Tiie  amount  of  stores  on  hand  at  the  respective  navy  yards,  undei^ 
the  survey  of  1829,  was  $4,440,7JJ0  96. 


10 


ffTY   or  NflNV  YrtniC. 


If 


\ 


I 


chiriuff  tbo  w«rm  urnnon,  pnrtiiMilarly  for  vinllrri 
fi*oin  Nf»>v-Vork.  *riu»  Hiluiitioit  in  viMy  |»J<mi«hmI,  In 
A  viu'il'ifiitod  IrniM  oC  (•ounlry  ;  mid  iilVonIn  a  inont 
npftV(Mi))l(>  n^nstl,  with  (liin  air  ami  ^ood  arroin- 
intMlaliouM. 

At  \\w  oily  of  Nrw-York  intoiy  fravpllrrn  v  jt] 
(M>iuiuon(*o  llifir  ionrn  in  diilriiMii  (liriMMionn;  and  ti 
jylanot*  at  Iho  ^fMUMal  Afifft  of  the  Hontfs,  on  a  pn;- 
Of^dinu' paifo,  will  anKiMl  IhiMn  in  laylnij  tlirir  pltnifl. 
Thi»  finion  tnorninp;  lino  of  nloandMMilN  in  immmmu- 
mondod  \\n'  Philadolplna.  T\\v  Iiohitfh  Coal  MinoH 
may  lu>  viMitiul  by  taking;  ono  oC  (ho  Ploani)>oalN  to 
NoNV-llrunKwiok,  and  Ihoro  a  Htay^o  ooaoh  ;  or  a  Hiatfo 
roaoh  fn>n\.lornoy  Cily.  My  lliat  ronlo  i\\v  IravolUu' 
nmy  pn»<M»o»l  \\ov\\\  io'tho  lino  of  Iho  I'lrio  Canal,  or 
!>y  iho  dirool  lino  to  Ithaoa,  ^o.  Tho  lar^ror  niorn- 
iti^f  hoats  ofVor  tho  luont  rapid,  and  on  tlw*  wludo  thn 
niOHl  ajyn^oahlo  nioaim  of  travolliny^  np  tho  IhidHon 
rivor.  A  vinit  to  tho  ('atnkill  Mountains,  and  an  ox- 
rurnion  to  l.obanon  Nprintts,  via  Hnd«»ni,  an^  vory 
ploai^ant  variations  ivowx  tho  oonnuon  ro\itin<^  of  iho 
wuto  to  Albany. 

A  yood  tti»noral  tour  is  ns  follows — Now-York, 
(^rttskill,  Alnany,  tho  SprinijH,  Kako  (»oor^:o,  haok  to 
tho  S[>rinft\s,  Sohoiiootady  (or  Johnstown),  Niaji^ara, 
down  l.ako  Ontario,  INIontival,  Qu<»b(»o,  Monlroal,np 
IiHko  Chan\plaii\  to  Ihirlinjfton,  orovss  tlio  oomitry  to 
Connooticut  rivor  and  1^>sI(Hi — hack  to  Ntnv-York 
by  C\>nnootiout  rivcM,  orby  Providonoo. 

I^iis  may  ho  variod  at  ploaj«nro.  Tho  Sprinjrs 
may  bo  visitod  aftor  tho  tour  has  boon  acoomplishod  ; 
ami  this  will  bo  ptvforird  by  many,  to  onjoy  roposo 
aOor  fatij>uo,  and  to  soo  tho  oountry  in  tho  oarlior  and 
coolor  part  of  Iho  soason.  Somo  may  chooso  (Irst 
to  travol  oastward ;  and  thon  thoy  will  tako  ono  of 
the sleamboats'whiohrun in  tliat  dirociion.  Informa- 
tion concoruing  most  of  tho  land  routos  may  bo 
obtainod  at  the  coach  olHces  iu  Courllaiidt-street, 
near  Broadway.  « 


Tiipj  Monnm  canal. 

TO  TIM':  COM.  Ml^t^^J^'-^--^^^ 

A  RtMKP  rniicli  \n)vn  in  a  <lnv 
to    I'liiNloii;  iinnllirr   f^orn  daily 
wick,  N.  .1.,  t(»  Nradiii^,  INmiii.,  i 

T1IK  MOinilS  CA 

TliJH  <':u\m1  will  ofl'cr  a  iinw  uiK 
Antlirarilc  Coal  Mint*N  al  Maticli 

ll  will  leaver  tin*  IIikIhoii  liViM*  op))oniU)  Nuw-York 
oily  at  Powl(«H^  Hook.  Ai't<*rpaNHiii)(  through  IIhUuw 
yromulM  il  rcaclicM  an  t'lcvaUMJ  iriu'X  50  l<M?t  nbuvo, 
np  wliirli  it  riH(*H  Uy  an  indtned  plane.  lioatM  are 
about  t(Mi  niinntcN  in  \m\\a  drawn  up  l>y  nuicliincry. 
Tho  old  road  through  N(;wark  niarHiu;8  niakus  a 
towiutf  path. 

TIh>  inflimnl  piano  nnar  Hloomfii'id  i«  fi2i  frrt  lonpf, 
and  HunnonntH  an  (dcvation  of  5'2  (vvi  prrpondicidur, 
having:  an  inclination  of  one  foot  innv(Ty  12.  VVIioii 
a  boat  iH  drawn  to  the  top  of  the  piano,  it  is  rocoived 
into  an  onipty  lock,  into  which  tho  wat<;r  in  admittnd 
from  abovo,  and,  by  its  own  operation  doses  tho 
^\\\v»  behind  it,  tlnis  floating  it  up  to  the  upner  level. 
The  wheels  of  the  machinery  are  provided  ajfainst 
too  rapid  a  motion,  by  a  contrivance  by  which 
W(Mlj;es  are  rtpontancously  dropped  to  stop  them. 

!)over  is  a  villajro  which  lies  a  little  beyond;  and 
at  a  short  distance  the  canal  rises  to  the  summit 
l(>vcl,  whicli  is  sup|)licd,  for  ten  miles,  from  a  pond. 
Not  less  than  twenty  niilos  of  the  wbole  route,  the 
canal  runs  throuj»h  narrow  ravines,  between  hiffh 
ridjrcs  of  jrranite,  which  abound  in  valuable  minerals, 
henMofore  transported  by  land  to  a  distance  to  be 
wrought. 

With  the  exception  of  the  Mountain  Ridge,  the 
land  through  which  the  Morris  Canal  passes  is  fer- 
tile and  populous.  The  whole  rise  and  fall  upon 
the  routn  amounts  to  890  feet;  and  this  is  overcome 


1« 


tllE    MORlllS   OANAt. 


V 


I 


by  inclined  planes,  instead  of  locks,  at  as  little  ex* 
pense,  it  is  declared,  as  the  lockage  of  250  feet 
would  cost. 

Newark  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  places  in  the 
State.  Tile  canal  winds  thence  to  Paterson,  where 
it  passes  along  tlie  rocks  below  the  falls,  througli 
expensive  excavations.  It  crosses  the  Passaic 
above  the  Little  Paterson  falls,  on  an  arched  stone 
aqueduct,  60  feet  span. 

Paterson  is  a  large  and  flourishing  manufacturing 
village,  situated  just  below  the  great  and  picturesque 
falls  of  the  Passaic,  from  which  the  water  is  sup* 
plied  for  turning  the  machinery  of  numerous  large 
establishments.  The  place  has  grown  up  from  al- 
most obscurity  within  20  years,  and  latterly  contains 
about  8000  inhabitants.  The  amount  of  capital  in- 
vested was  estimated  in  1828  at  above  a  million. 

In  the  town  there  are  seventeen  cotton  factories, 
containing  30,000  spindles  ;  one  flax  or  sail  duck 
factory,  with  1600  spindles  ;  one  slitting  and  rolling 
mill  and  nail  factory,  working  annually  896,000 
pounds  of  iron,  costing  J  10,320,  and  making,  yearly, 
851,200  pounds  of  nails.  The  cotton  factories  con- 
sume, annually,  2,000,000  pounds  of  cotton,  and  the 
flax  factory  600,000  pounds  of  flax. — There  is  one 
machine  shop  employing  150  hands,  connected  with 
whi(;h  is  an  iron  and  brass  foundry,  working  an* 
nually  600,000  pounds  of  iron,  and  16*500  pounds  of 
brass  :  the  estimated  yearly  value  of  the  iron  and 
brass  castings  is  §25,000. 

The  scenery  at  the  Falls  is  celebrated  for  its  pic- 
turesque character.  A  perpendicular  wall  of  solid 
rock  rises  from  the  side  of  a  large  basin  formed  by 
the  river,  into  which  the  stream  falls  in  foam,  from 
the  height  of  70  feet.  A.  man  repeatedly  sprung 
from  that  height  into  the  water  in  1828,  without  in- 
jury. 

When  the  canal  leaves  the  Passaic,  it  runs  a  few 
miles  in  the  valley  of  Pompton  river,  then  through 


HOOKS   AND   MAPS. 


13 


a  rougher  country  to  Mayville,  where  it  rises  140 
feet  by  two  incHiied  planes.  Thence  to  Boonton 
Falls  on  Rockaway  river,  and  up  another,  80  feet. 
The  river  has  a  fine  fall,  well  dammed,  to  supply  the 
canal,  and  several  mills.  At  Dover  are  iron  works. 
At  Rockaway  is  a  plane  rising  52  feet, 
^f  There  is  a  direct  road  to  Buffalo  through  Jtiiaca, 

The  following  list  of  books*  and  maps  is  given  for 
those  who  may  wish  for  more  details  concerning 
the  northern  states  than  we  able  to  furnish  in  the 
present  summary  view. 

BOOKS, 

History  of  the  New-York  Canals. 

Smith's  History  of  New-York. 

Picture  of  New-York  and  Stranger's  Guide.' 

Dr.  Dwight's  Travels  in  the  New-England  States 
and  New-York. 

Professor  Silliman's  Short  Tour  to  Montreal  and 
Quebec,  in  18mo. 

Tanner's  Stranger's  Guide  to  Philadelphia. 

Van  Rensselaer's  Geological  Survey  of  the  Canal 
Koute. 

Hibernicus's  letters  on  the  New-York  Canal. 

Spafford's  Gazetteer  of  the  State  of  New- York. 

Gazetteers  of  several  States. 

Description  Topograph ique  de  la  Province  du  Bas 
Canada,  avec  des  remarqiies  sur  la  Haute  Canada, 
€t  sur  les  relations  de  deux  provinces  d'Amerique. 
Par  Joseph  Bouchette. 

Greenbank's  Views  of  American  Scenery. 

Pictures  of  Philadelphia,  Boston,  Quebec,  &;c. 

V^illiams'  N.  Y.  Annual  Register.— Skinners'  N. 
Y.  State  (I? 

MAPS. 

Bridge's,  Hooker's,  or  other  Maps  of  the  City. 
Eddy's  Map  of  the  State  of  New-York. 

C 


11 


(  i 


I*-,-* 


»i(    «■ 


H 

if 


. 


14 


NEW- YORK   TO   ALBANY. 


Vance's  Map  of  the  Western  Part  of  the  same. 
Goodrich's  Map  of  the  Hudson  River. 
Daggett's  Map  of  Connecticut. 
Bouchette's  Maps  of  Canada. 
Tanner's  Maps  of  different  States,    and  of  the 
United  States. 

ROUTE  FROM  NEW- YORK  TO  ALBANY. 

The  following  steamboats  ply  between  New- York 
and  Albany.  North  America,*  Ohio,  New  Phila- 
delphia, Albany,  De  Witt  Clinton,  Sandusky,  Olive 
Branch,  Bristol,  Constitution,  Constellation,  and 
Chief  Justice  Marshall. 

There  are  also  others  to  intermediate  places* 
Most  of  the  N.  York  and  Albany  boats,  however,  stop 
or  touch  at  those  places.  These  boats  lie  about  the 
docks  at  Courtlandt,  Cedar,  and  Barclay  streets. 

There  is  some  difference  in  the  charges  of  the 
boats,  but  the  accommodations  travellers  will  find 
on  board  of  them  are  generally  good,  except  when 
they  are  too  much  crowded  with  passengers.  Stran- 
gers will  generally  prefer  the  large  ones,  because  they 
are  furnished  with  an  upper  deck,  called  the  prome- 
nade, which  is  sheltered  from  the  sun  by  an  awning, 
and  affords  a  much  more  uninterrupted  prospect,  as 
well  as  better  air.  As  two  or  three  will  go  every 
day,  and  the  traveller  can  choose  better  for  himself, 
it  is  unnecessary  to  make  ny  further  suggestions, 
except  that  ladies  particularly  will  prefer  the  day 
boats,  unless  they  are  too  much  crowded. 

Captions.  If  luggage  is  sent  by  a  porter,  ask],him 
for  his  number,  so  tliat  if  he  is  negligent  or  dishonest, 
he  may  be  reported  at  the  police  office.  It  is  best 
to  go  to  the  steamboat  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  before 
the  time  of  departure,  to  avoid  the  crowd  which 
always  collects  at  the  dock. 

*  This  boat,  in  1828,  made  the  shortest  passage  ever  known  between 
NtiW-York  and  Albany— viz.  iu  lU  huuiij  and  30  minutes. 


■^ 


PALIS  ADOES.  16 

PASSAGE  UP  THE  HUDSON  RIVER. 

On  leaving  New- York,  the  traveller  finds  himself 
in  the  midst  of  a  fine  and  varied  scene.  The  bat- 
tery lies  behind  him,  with  Governor's  Island  and 
Castle  Williams  projecting  beyond  ;''still  more  dis- 
tant opens  the  passage  called  the  Narrows,  with 
Staten  Island  on  the  rig'ht,  leading  to  Sandy  Hook 
and  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  which  is  22  miles  from  the 
city.  On  the  west  side  of  the  Bay  are  Bedlow's 
and  Gibbet  Islands,  with  fortifications  ;  the  point  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Hudson  is  Powle's  Hook,  on  which 
stands  a  small  town  in  New- Jersey  called  Jersey 
City  ;  and  the  village  of  Hoboken  is  seen  a  mile  or 
more  up  the  river.  The  hills  of  Weehawken  appear 
beyond  :  and  we  pass  the  crowded  line  of  buildings 
in  Washington-street,  the  JVorth  Battery,  the  village 
of  Greenwich,  and  the  Episcopal  Seminary. 

At  Weehawken,  under  a  ledge  of  rocks  facing  the 
river,  and  about  the  distance  of  three  miles  from  the 
city,  is  the  spot  where  General  Alexander  Hamilton 
fell  in  a  duel  with  Col.  Burr.  A  monument  of  white 
marble  was  erected  to  his  memory  on  the  place ;  but 
it  has  been  removed  within  a  few  years.  This  is  the 
common  duelling  ground  for  combatants  from  the 
city,  and  many  lives  have  been  lost  on  this  fatal  spot. 

The  Palisaaoes — a  remarkable  range  of  precipices 
of  trap  rock,  which  begins  near  this  place,  extends 
up  the  river  on  the  west  side  20  miles,  to  Tappan, 
and  forms  a  singular,  and  in  many  places  an  impass- 
able boundary.  In  some  places  an  old  red  sand- 
stone foundation  is  seen  below  ;  but  the  great  mass 
of  the  rocks  presents  the  mural  precipices  of  the 
trap  formation,  and  rises  from  the  height  of  15  or  20 
feet  to  500  or  550. 

The  eastern  shore  of  the  river  opposite  the  Pali- 
sadoes  is  for  many  miles  handsomely  rounded  with 
hills,  and  presents  many  scenes  of  cultivation,  which 
contrast  with  the  rude  cliffs  on  the  left.    The  soil  is 


"T-'rjW!PI' 


16 


NEW-YORK    TO   ALBANY. 


i   ' 


[  I 


M' 


t 


inferior;  and  the  woodland  encroaches  too  much 
upon  the  fields  and  orchards. 

The  Lunatic  Asylum  about  7  miles  from  the  city, 
is  a  large  building  of  h^  tvn  stone,  occupying  a  com- 
manding situation. 

Harlcem  Heights  are  a  short  distance  further.  They 
form  an  elevated  ridge  across  Manhattan  Island,  on 
which  a  line  of  fortifications  was  thrown  up  during 
the  Revolution,  and  the  late  war,  quite  over  to  the 
East  river. 

Fort  Lee,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  is  situated 
on  the  brow  of  the  Palisadoes,  more  than  300  feet 
above  the  river. 

Fort  Washington  was  a  fortress  on  the  top  of  a  high 
rounded  hill,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  12  miles 
from  New- York.  In  October,  1776,  when  Gen. 
Washington  had  evacuated  the  city,  and,  subse- 
quently to  the  battle  of  White  Plains  (for  which  see 
just  beyond),  had  drawn  off  his  army  to  Fort  Lee, 
Fort  Washington  was  kept  garrisoned,  contrary  to 
his  advice,  and  was  attacked  in  four  divisions.  The 
Hessians  and  Waldeckers,  under  General  Knyphau- 
sen  went  up  the  hill  on  the  north  side,  Gen.  Matthews 
on  the  east,  with  the  English  light  infantry  and 
guards,  marched  against  the  entrenchments,  which 
reached  almost  to  the  East  river.  Col.  Sterling 
made  a  feint  of  crossing  that  river  lower  down, 
while  I  ord  Percy,  with  a  very  strong  corps  was  to 
act  against  the  western  flank. 

The  Hessians  suffered  much  from  the  riflemen  in 
passing  the  swamp,  but  succeeded,  with  the  other 
divisions,  in  driving  the  Americans  into  this  fort, 
where  they  all  surrendered,  to  the  number  of  2600 
men,  including  militia.  They  had  lost  very  few; 
but  the  British  lost  about  800. 

Fort  Lee  was  immediately  evacuated ;  but  the  Brit- 
ish crossed  so  speedily  at  Dobbs's  Ferry,  that  they 
took  the  artillery,  military  stores,  baggage,  and  tents 
of  the  American  army. 


BATTLE  OP  WHITE  PLAINS. 


17 


l;J 


'  Yonkers  is  a  little  village  on  the  eastern  shore,  17 
miles  from  New- York.  This  place  was  known  in  the 
Revolutionary  war  by  the  name  of  Philipsburgh. 
It  is  10  miles  southward  of  White  Plains ;  and  near 
it  are  several  hills  of  interest  in  history — Tetard's 
hill,  Valentine's,  the  heiglits  of  Fordham,  &c. 

Battle  of  White  Plains.  In  October,  1776,  soon 
after  the  American  troops  evacuated  New- York, 
while  General  Washington  had  his  army  assembled 
at  Kingsbridge,  and  the  British  were  in  possession 
of  the  island  up  as  far  as  Harlajm,  General  Howe 
came  up  the  East  river,  with  an  intention  of  sur- 
rounding the  Americans.  He  left  his  German  corps 
at  New-Rochelle,  and  marched  for  the  high  grounds 
at  White  Plains,  several  miles  east  of  the  Hudson, 
to  seize  the  interior  road  between  the  city  and  Con- 
necticut. 

Washington  penetrated  his  design,  and  intrenched 
himself  on  the  west  side  of  the  small  river  Bronx, 
with  his  right  on  Valentine's  hill,  and  his  left  on 
White  Plains.  He  had  garrisons  near  Harlaem,  at 
Kingsbridge,  and  Fort  Washington.  Skirmishes 
were  kept  up  till  the  British  approached  very  near ; 
when  Washington  assembled  all  his  troops  in  a 
strong  camp  on  the  heights  near  the  plains,  with  the 
Bronx  in  front  and  on  the  right  flank,  and  a  moun- 
tainous region  in  the  rear.  The  right  was  more  ac- 
cessible ;  and  General  M'Dougal  was  sent  to  intrench 
himself  on  a  mountain  about  a  mile  in  front. 

On  the  morning  of  October  28th  the  British  ad- 
vanced in  two  columns ;  the  right  led  by  General 
Clinton,  and  the  left  by  General  Heister.  The  forme** 
took  post  on  the  Mamaroneck  road,  and  the  latter  on 
the  Bronx, — the  armies  being  a  mile  distant.  Col. 
Ralle  with  a  Hessian  regiment  fell  upon  General 
M^Dougal  in  flank,  while  Leslie  attacked  him  in  front 
with  a  brigade.  The  militia  soon  fled,  but  the  regu- 
lar troops  resisted  until  overpowered.  The  British 
determined  to  wait ;  and  on  the  following  morning* 

C2 


18 


KEW-YORK   TO   ALBANY. 


! 


!     ; 


; ! 


*i 


finding  the  American  position  much  strengthenel, 
and  a  lieight  in  the  rear  occupied  by  the  left  wing, 
sent  for  more  troops  and  erected  batteries.  Wash- 
ington, therefore,  retired  to  North  Castle,  and  soon 
after,  securing  the  bridge  over  Croton  and  Peekskill, 
crossed  tlie  Hudson. 

Fort  Independence,  on  the  east  side.  0^)posite,  the 
Palisadoes  are  of  still  greater  height. 

Dohb's  Ferry,  10  miles.  A 

Tarry  town,  3h  miles.  This  is  the  place  where 
Major  Andre  was  stopped,  returning  from  his  visit 
to  Gen.  Arnold,  and  on  his  way  to  the  British  lines. 
The  place  was  then  neutral  ground,  as  the  Ame- 
ricans and  English  lay  encamped  above  and  below. 
The  tree  was  recently  standing  under  which  his 
captors  searched  him,  and  the  bank  near  by  con- 
cealed them  from  his  view  as  he  approached  them. 
It  was  a  large  tulip  tree,  26  feet  round  and  111  feet 
high.     It  was  struck  by  lightning  in  1801. 

Tappan  Bay  is  a  wide  expansion  of  the  river,  ex- 
tending for  several  miles  above  and  below  Tappan. 
This  village  is  concealed  from  view,  being  situated 
a  little  inland,  on  the  western  shore,  in  Rockland 
county.  The  steamboat,  however,  will  pass  near 
Slote  Landing.  The  opposite  shore  is  distant,  and 
presents  but  little  that  is  worthy  of  attention. 

JVyac.  The  appearance  of  the  shore  here  is  pe- 
culiar. Nyac  Landing  is  at  the  foot  of  a  steep  and 
lofty  bank,  divided  with  much  regularity  into  fields. 
There  are  quarries  of  sand-stone  in  this  vicinity, 
"Nvhich  however  afford  an  inferior  article,  that  can- 
not compete  in  the  New-York  market  with  the  free- 
stone of  New-Jersey,  and  Middletown,  Conn. 

Tappan,  on  the  west  side.  Andre  was  executed 
about  a  mile  west  of  the  river  in  tliis  town. 

Haverstraw  Bay,  which  opens  above  Tappan  Bay, 
has  still  more  the  appearance  of  a  considerable  lake. 
It  is  four  miles  in  width,  and  extends  from  Verdrie- 
tege's  Point  to  Verplanck's  and  Stony  Points.^ 


FEEKSRILl. 


19 


As' the  stranger  proceeds,  he  finds  himself  at  a  loss 
to  determine  what  is  the  course  of  the  Hudson  above. 
The  mountainous  range  of  the  Highlands  is  seen 
northward,  but  the  river  contracts  itself  so  much, 
and  takes  so  sudden  a  turn,  that  it  is  lost  to  the  eye 
from  a  distance. 

The  State  Prison,  at  Singsing,  is  in  a  quadrangle  of 
nearly  44  feet  by  480.  It  has  a  double  stack  of  cells 
built  back  to  back,  4  tiers  high,  and  200  on  each  tier ; 
in  all  800.  9  feet  distant  is  the  outer  wall,  which 
supports  a  gallery  running  all  round ;  size  of  the 
cells,  3  feet  G  inches  by  7  feet,  and  2  feet  door-way. 
The  whole  work  was  done  by  convicts,  and  a  great 
part  is  of  hewn  stone.  The  system  is  the  best — 
that  of  the  Auburn  prison. 

The  Singsing  prison  is  in  plain  view  from  the 
steamboats,  being  only  a  few  feet  from  the  shore. 
The  excellence  of  this  sj^stem  of  prison  discipline, 
which  is  the  invention  of  Mr.  Lynds,  the  superin- 
tendent (formerly  superintendent  at  Auburn),  con- 
sists in  its  cutting  off  all  intercourse  among  the  pris- 
oners. They  are  separately  lodged ;  and  though 
tliey  work  together  they  cannot  converse,  even  by 
signs,  and  therefore  can  concert  nothing,  and  cannot 
contaminate  each  other. 

Slaughter's  Landing  is  a  romantic  spot  on  the  west- 
ern shore. 

Peekskill,  on  the  eastern  shore,  has  two  landings, 
Peekskill  and  Cortlandt.  This  town  is  in  Cort- 
landt  county,  which  borders  Haverstraw  Bay  on 
that  side.  There  is  the  ancient  Cortlandt  manor,  or 
patent,  which  lies  in  two  tracts,  and  was  granted  to 
Stephanus  Van  Cortlandt  in  1697.  The  residence 
of  Gen.  Van  Cortlandt  is  one  of  the  fine  and  con- 
spicuous residences  discoverable  at  a  moderate  dis- 
tance from  the  water.  Peekskill  village  stands  just 
below  the  Highlands,  at  the  mouth  of  a  stream  of 
the  same  name. 

Continental  Village  is  still  marked  by  its  ruins,  at  a 


20 


NEW- YORK    TO   ALBANY. 


$pot  which  the  steamboat  does  not  approach.  In 
October,  1777,  it  was  destroyed  by  the  British  while 
passing  up  the  river.  The  barracks,  which  were 
able  to  contain  2000  men,  were  burnt. 

Teller^ s  Point  extends  into  Haverstraw  Bay.  Sev- 
eral fine  situations,  it  will  be  seen,  are  occupied  by 
handsome  private  mansions. 

Sleepy  Hollow,  rendered  interesting  by  Mr,  Irving, 
is  a  little  above  Singsing. 

The  Entrance  o(  the  Highlands  is  a  short  distance 
beyond  this  place,  and  40  miles  from  New- York. 
The  Highlands  extend  16  miles.  This  is  a  region 
no  less  remarkable  for  the  important  military  events 
of  which  it  has  been  the  theatre,  than  for  the  gran- 
deur and  nobleness  of  its  natural  scenery. 

Stony  Point,  This  little  rough  promontory  on  the 
left,  nearly  a  mile  below  the  entrance  of  the  High-, 
lands,  was  a  fortified  position  during  the  American 
war.  The  British  took  it  from  Gen.  Wayne  in  1778, 
but  lost  it  again  the  same  year.  There  is  a  light- 
house on  the  top. 

Verplanck's  Point,  on  the  opposite  side,  was  also 
the  site  of  a  fort ;  but  is  now  ornamented  with  a 
handsome  private  mansion,  and  the  rocks  near  the 
landing  are  tastefully  variegated  with  a  lawn,  an 
arbour,  and  many  fine  trees.  Here  are  the  ruins  of 
Fort  Fayette. 

FORT  MONTGOMERY  AND  FORT  CLINTON. 

5  miles. 

These  forts  were  taken  by  Sir  Henry  Clinton,  on 
the  6th  of  October,  1777.  His  object  was  to  co- 
operate with  Gen.  Burgoyne,  at  that  time  closely 
watched  by  Gen.  Gates  near  Saratoga,  and  to  afford 
him  an  opportunity  to  force  his  way  to  Hudson  River, 
by  effecting  a  diversion  in  his  favour.  For  this  pur- 
pose Sir  H.  Clinton  had  left  New- York  with  3  or 
4,000  troops,  embarked  in  the  fleet,  and  landed  at 


"-;¥" 


-•■tr-lfUr 


LCh.      Ill 

5h  while 
;h  were 

y>  Sev- 
ipied  by 

.  Irving, 

iistanee 
4^-York, 
I  region 
T  events 
e  gran^ 

^ on  the 
9  High-. 
nericai> 
in  1778, 
1  light- 
as  also 
with  a 
ear  the 
wn,  an 
uins  of 


^TON, 


ton,  on 

to  00- 

ilosely 
>  afford 
River, 
is  pur- 
th  3  or 
ded  at 


I 


Ji^orth 


f      II 


• 


X  ji.,.K.r  Kn.irsr. 


WEST   POINT. 


21 


Verplaiick's  Point.  The  next  morning  a  detachment 
was  sent  to  Stony  Point,  and  marched  round  in  the 
rear  of  these  forts,  then  under  the  command  of  Gen. 
Putnam,  and  garrisoned  by  1000  continental  troops, 
part  of  whom  were  unfit  for  duty,  and  a  small  number 
of  militia. 

Gen.  Putnam,  apprized  of  the  landing  made  at 
Verplanck's  Point,  and  supposing  the  object  of  the 
expedition  to  be  Fort  Independence,  had  crossed  the 
river  and  made  preparations  to  oppose  them.  He 
did  not  discover  their  real  intentions  until  he  heard 
the  firing  at  forts  Montgomery  and  Clinton,  which 
are  near  each  other,  and  were  attacked  at  the  same 
moment.  The  fighting  began  between  four  and  five 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  lasted  till  dark,  when 
the  Americans  having  lost  about  250  men,  the  forts 
were  surrendered ;  but  all  the  troops  who  were  able, 
about  450,  effected  their  escape,  with  the  governor 
and  his  brother  Gen.  James  Clinton.  The  British, 
proceeding  to  West  Point,  removed  the  chain  which 
had  been  stretched  across  the  river  to  prevent  the 
passage  of  their  ships ;  and  a  part  of  the  fleet,  under 
Sir  James  Wallace,  went  up  to  Kingston,  with  Gen. 
Vaughan  and  his  troops.  Although  they  found  the 
village  defenceless,  the  ofllcers  ordered  it  to  be  burned 
on  the  13th  of  October.  The  British  proceeded  no 
further  than  that  place  ;  for  the  news  of  Burgoyne's 
surrender  being  received  a  few  days  afterward,  the 
fleet  returned  to  New- York. 

As  the  steamboat  proceeds,  several  points  are 
observed  projecting  into  the  river  some  distance 
above ;  and  West  Point  makes  its  appearance  on  the 
left  hand,  with  the  ruins  of  Fort  PtUnarrii  elevated  on 
a  commanding  eminence,  a  little  beyond,  598  feet 
above  the  water's  level.  The  view  it  commands 
over  this  wild  and  mountainous  neighbourhood,  as 
well  as  its  connexion  with  our  history,  render  it 
worthy  of  a  visit.  There  are  still  three  or  four  sub- 
terraneous rooms  to  be  seen ;  and  the  place  is  so  often 


//,;,./■  Eu.i'-sy 


22 


NEW-YORK   TO   ALnANY. 


!■ 


visited  that  the  path  is  plain,  and  leads  to  most  of 
the  principal  objects  within  it.  This  fortress  com- 
manded at  once  the  river  above  and  below  West 
Point,  and  the  passage  into  a  defile  which  opens 
through  the  mountains  westward.  That  defile  was 
farther  defended  by  numerous  little  batteries  and  re- 
doubts on  the  peaks  around  it.  The  summits  near 
Fort  Putnam  (then  Independence)  were  also  occu- 
pied, but  were  not  fit  for  extensive  works,  although 
more  elevated.  During  the  war  a  fort  stood  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  called  Fort  Constitution. 
Kosciusko's  Monument  is  erected  at  West  Point ; 
and  the  spot  is  still  shown  where  he  cultivated  his 
little  garden. 

WEST   POINT. 

This  was  a  military  position  of  great  consequence 
in  the  war.  A  battery  was  erected  on  the  extremity 
of  the  point  just  over  the  river,  to  command  the 
channel,  while  a  strong  iron  chain  was  stretched 
across  from  the  shore  below  to  the  opposite  side. 
On  the  east  side  of  the  river  is  Colr^  Spring;  behind 
it  is  the  West  Point  Foundry^  owned  by  Major  Kim- 
berly  of  New- York.  It  is  the  best  in  the  United 
States,  and  worthy  of  attention. 

The  Military  Academy  of  the  United   States 

is  located  at  West  Point ;  and  a  more  delightful 
situation  for  such  an  institution  could  hardly  have 
been  selected.  It  is  designed  for  the  irstruction  of 
young  men  destined  for  the  army ;  and,,  secondarily, 
for  maintaining  the  military  science  of  the  country. 
The  Academy  was  established  in  1802,  by  Gen. 
Williams,  and  extends  only  to  the  instruction  of 
cadets.  The  number  of  pupils  is  confined  to  250 ; 
and  in  choosing  from  the  applicants,  the  sons  of 
revolutionary  officers  are  allowed  the  first  claim,  and 
those  children  of  officers  of  the  last  war  whose 


ACADEMY    AT    WEST    I'OINT. 


23 


fathers  arc  dead,  the  next.  There  are  about  30  pro- 
fessors, instructers,  and  assistants.  Some  of  the 
cadets  afford  assistance  in  instructing,  for  which 
tliey  receive  additional  pay.  The  hiw  prohibits 
admission  under  fourteen  years  of  age. 

The  level  on  which  the  buildings  of  the  institu- 
tion are  erected  is  188  feet  above  the  river,  though 
it  has  the  appearance  of  having  once  formed  a  part 
of  its  bed.  The  annual  expense  of  the  institution 
to  the  United  States  is  $115,000.  The  sum  paid  for 
tlie  education  of  a  cadet  is  about  $330  per  annum. 
The  library  consists  of  a  large  and  valuable  collec- 
tion of  books,  on  the  various  branches  of  military 
science,  which  have  been  obtained  with  great  assi- 
duity and  no  small  expense  from  Europe. 

The  buildings  belonging  to  the  institution  are  five ; 
all  large,  and  built  of  stone.  There  are,  besides, 
six  brick  buildings  for  the  officers  and  professors  ; 
near  the  water,  some  old  military  storehouges,which 
contain  arms,  &c.  used  in  the  revolution.  The  bar- 
racks were  lately  burnt. 

There  is  a  large  and  conspicuous  hotel  lately 
erected  for  the  accommodation  of  visiters. 

The  course  of  study  is  completed  in  four  5\iars, 
each  being  devoted  to  a  class;  and  includes  the 
French  language,  drawing,  natural  and  experimental 
philosophy,  chymistry  and  mineralogy,  geography, 
history,  ethics,  and  national  law,  mathematics  in 
the  highest  branches,  and  lastly,  artillery  and 
engineering. 

Study  concludes  each  day  at  4  P.  M.  and  is  suc- 
ceeded by  the  parade,  which  lasts  till  sunset. 

One  of  the  particular  spots  worthy  of  attention  is 
Col.  Beverly  Robinson's  mansion  on  the  east  side 
of  the  river,  which  was  made  the  head-quarters  of 
the  several  officers  who  were  at  different  periods 
invested  with  the  command  of  this  important  part 
of  the  country. 

In  September,  1780,  while  the  British  held  posses- 


24 


NEW-YOllK    TO   ALBANY. 


•I 


\   1 


li      (^ 


U      ' 


sion  of  Hudson  River  up  to  the  borders  of  the  High- 
lands, and  General  Arnold  was  in  command  here,  a 
correspondence  was  carried  on  by  him  with  the 
British  officers,  on  the  subject  of  surrendering  his 
post  into  their  hands.  To  bring  their  designs  to  a 
conclusion,  it  was  determined  that  a  meeting  should 
be  held. 

Andre  was  sent  under  cover  of  the  night  from  the 
sloop  of  war  Vulture,  which  was  then  lying  in  Haver- 
straw  Bay,  to  a  place  which  had  been  appointed  for 
the  conference.  A  man  by  the  name  of  Smith  had 
been  sent  on  board  by  Ar-iold,  under  the  pretence  of 
negotiating  about  an  honourable  treaty  with  Great 
Britain,  and  he  accompanied  Andre  to  the  foot  of  a 
mountain  cplled  the  Long  Clove,  on  the  west  side  of 
the  liver.  Here  they  found  Gen.  Arnold  in  a  dark 
grove  of  evergreen  trees,  according  to  appointment. 

Daylight  put  it  out  of  the  power  of  Major  Andre 
to  pass  in  safety  the  posts  at  Verplanck's  and  Stony 
Points.  He  was  therefore  obliged  to  retire  to 
Smith's  house,  and  change  his  dress  for  a  disguise. 

General  Arnold  had  furnished  him  with  a  pass 
under  the  name  of  John  Anderson ;  and  on  the  fol- 
lowing evening  he  set  out  by  laiid,  accompanied  by 
Smith  as  a  guide.  They  rode  that  night  to  McKoy's, 
after  going  eight  or  nine  miles ;  and  the  next  he 
spent  at  Pine's  Bridge,  over  Croton  River.  Here 
he  parted  with  Smith,  and  proceeded  alone  six  miles, 
when,  as  he  had  passed  the  American  lines,  and  was 
approaching  those  of  the  British,  he  was  discovered 
by  three  men,  who  were  concealed  from  him  be- 
hind a  bank ;  and  one  of  them,  suddenly  stepping 
from  under  a  tree  by  the  road  side,  seized  his  horse 
by  the  bridle.  They  found  in  his  boots  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  works  at  West  Point,  with  returns  of  all 
the  forces  of  the  garrison,  in  the  handwriting  of  Ar- 
nold. 

This  happened  on  the  23d  of  September.  A  mes- 
senger was  immediately  sent  to  General  Washing- 


T^v-TT^rT'  —  ■  V^-^' 


-'i»'T!E  — 7'"r-Y^''-/TT|Tp"w^T-";,r'Hw-»T'  * 


•».  ■%..■ 


\'-- 


'    i 


I 


...  >     ■  . 


Jl^  t 


ii  ^t^  ^y^ — ' 


.;»^^ 


P  IT  T  X  A.  M     CO. 


\50 


WestPotflt 
Butter miXk't^^  ilt^  ; ..- 


f*M<>ntQofy 


'r-i  ■•  ifi: ;*■; V. 


i. 


'^^■''*j0ihsz\ 


Bare  M^xfitain  '^.^  V"^'^' 

/  f^a^^^jl        WEST 

^y        Dunderberg'  ilQ  CHESTER    CO. 


\.  .- Art'i/A  «ir.'(?'.  S.(^> 


.^ 


'■'       II  O  C  ff  L.  A.  X  n        CO. 


fiu^frn- 


m:    CO. 


9C 


/>V, 


i 


polopell's  island. 


26 


ton;  and  at  Andre's  request  Lieutenant  Colonel 
Jamieson  sent  to  Arnold  to  inform  him  that  Ander- 
son was  taken.  The  latter  messenger  arrived  first ; 
and  Arnold,  as  soon  as  he  learned  the  truth,  rushed 
down  a  very  steep  hank,  sprang  into  his  boat, 
and  ordered  the  rowers  to  take  him  on  board  the 
Vulture. 

On  the  29th  of  September  a  board  of  officers  was 
appointed  for  the  trial  of  Major  Andre,  and  sen- 
tenced him  to  suffer  death  as  a  spy.  Objections 
were  mi  de  to  this  sentence,  on  the  ground  that  An- 
dre had  been  introduced  into  the  American  camp 
under  the  passport  of  one  of  our  officers ;  but  the 
del^v^ry  of  Arnold  being  made  the  condition  of  his 
'^^  :  ,  and  that  being  refused  by  the  British,  he 
was  kept  in  prison  until  the  2d  day  of  October,  when 
he  was  hung  at  the  town  of  Tappan,  where  his  body 
was  afterward  interred. 

A  few  years  since  the  British  government  sent  to 
this  country  to  obtain  his  remains,  which  were  re- 
moved to  England,  and  placed  in  the  family  vault  of 
the  then  prince-regent.  A  cypress-tree  which  grew 
over  his  grave  was  likewise  removed  to  the  garden 
of  the  late  king.  In  1827,  the  corporation  of  New- 
York  erected  a  monument  over  the  grave  of  Paulding, 
one  of  his  captors. 

At  leavi  ;  West  Point,  the  traveller  will  observe 
several  rt:>''  kubly  high  mountains  on  both  sides  of 
the  river,  u  '^^  ich  he  is  referred  to  the  map.  The 
distant  sumni  f  of  Catskill  Mountains  is  distinguish- 
able. Putnam's  Rock  was  rolled  from  the  top  of 
Butter  Hill,  .June,  1778,  by  a  party  of  soldiers  di- 
rected by  General  Putnam. 

Po%^c//'s/s/anci  (commonly  called  Polypus  Island) 
lies  in  the  river,  at  the  distance  of  seven  miles  from 
West  Point,  off  agalns.  the  prominent  mountain 
called  .  eakneck  Hill.  It  is  very  rocky,  and  not 
suscepu^V' of  CI  Itivation.  It  is  remarkable  as'  the 
point  at  vviiicii  the  tides  correspond  with  thode  at 


D 


W'.'A' 


28 


NEW-YORK   TO    ALBANV. 


New- York  city.  It  is  high  water  and  low  water 
here  and  there  at  the  same  time. 

JVewburgh. — This  is  a  town  of  considerable  size, 
six  miles  beyond  the  Highlands,  with  some  hand- 
some buildings.  Here  begins  the  Stage  Road  lead- 
ing from  the  river  to  Ithaca,  at  the  head  of  Cayuga 
Lake,  and  communicating  by  a  steamboat  with  the 
great  western  turnpike  at  Cayuga  Bridge. 

Newburgh  is  advantageously  situated  for  the  eye 
of  one  approaching  it,  as  it  stands  on  the  declivity 
of  a  hill  which  slopes  handsomely  to  the  shore* 
Half  a  mile  south  of  the  village  is  seen  the  old 
stone  house  in  which  ""rP'^eral  Washington  had  his 
head-quarters  when  tho  orated  "  Newburgh  Let- 
ters" came  out. 

A  coach  runs  daily  to  Goshen,  near  which  are  the 
Chemung  Springs. 

Fishkill  Mountain. — The  summits  called  Old  and 
New  Beacons,  which  rise  opposite  Newburgh,  at  a 
distance  of  four  miles,  command  a  fine  view  ovet 
the  surrounding  countrv  and  the  river,  which  ap- 
pears, interrupted  by  the  Highlands,  like  a  number 
of  lakes.  Fort  Putnam  is  in  sight,  and  it  is  said 
that  land  may  be  seen  in  seven  different  states* 
Many  villages,  as  well  as  the  river,  are  included  in 
the  view. 

Matteawan  Factory. — It  stands  near  the  river  and 
directly  opposite  Newburgh,  on  Wappinger's  Creeki 
It  was  commenced  in  1814,  belongs  to  Messrs. 
Schenk,  and  gives  employment  to  about  300  per- 
sons, with  fifty  power-looms,  &c.  1000  or  1500 
yards  of  cotton  are  manufactured  on  an  average 
from  the  wool  every  day,  principally  stripes  and 
ginghams.  There  is  an  extensive  machine-shop 
connected  with  it. 

Fishkill  is  a  pleasant  village,  situated  on  the  low 
land  near  the  feet  of  the  fine  eminences  of  the  east- 
ern Highlands,  opposite  Newburgh.  The  principal 
village  is  about  five  miles  distant  from  the  shore, 


4 


POUGHKEErSIB. 


27 


which  presents  an  agfreeable  diversity  of  surface, 
and  affords  pleasant  situations  for  a  number  of  hand- 
some houses  near  the  landings,  which  enjoy  com- 
manding views  upon  the  romantic  neighbourhood. 
Breakneck  Hill,  or  the  Old  Beacon,  and  the  Grand 
Sachem,  or  New  Beacon,  about  half  a  mile  south  of 
it,  form  the  principal  eminences  on  that  side,  and 
confront  those  on  the  other  side — Butter  Hill  and  the 
Crow's  Nest. 

Hamburgh  is  a  small  village  a  short  distance 
above  Fishkil!,  recently  built  at  the  mouth  of  Wap- 
pinger's  Creek.  This  stream  runs  through  nearly 
the  whole  county  of  Dutchess,  which  is  remarkable 
for  its  high  agricultural  character  and  wealth.  This 
county  extends  along  the  river  for  thirty-eight 
miles,  and  adjoins  the  county  of  Litchfield  in  Con- 
necticut. 

Barnegat,  a  landing-place  a  little  above  Ham- 
burgh, is  within  the  town  of  Poughkeepsie.  Lime- 
stone is  found  in  abundance  in  t^  is  vicinity,  and 
burned  in  kilns.  Quicklime  is  transported  from 
Barnegat  in  considerable  quantities. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Hudson  is  Milton,  A 
few  miles  inland,  on  that  side,  is  the  course  of  the 
Walkill  River,  which,  after  a  northerly  course 
through  the  county  of  Orange,  and  the  greater  part 
of  Ulster,  falls  into  the  Rondout  and  the  Hudson  at 
Kingston,  affording  for  a  short  distance  its  channel 
to  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal. 

Poughkeepsie  is  a  place  of  considerable  impor- 
tance. The  landing  has  a  singular  situation. 
There  are  three  or  four  rough  and  rocky  projections 
on  the  shore,  which  break  up  the  streets  of  the  vil- 
lage, and  are  partly  occupied  with  houses  and  gar- 
dens. 

There  are  five  landings  in  this  town.  The  village 
is  nearly  a  mile  from  the  shore. 

For  several  miles  beyond,  the  shores  are  of  a  reg- 
ular elevation,  but  are  cut  through  by  several  8treams» 


28 


NEVV-TORK   TO   ALBAN7. 


1 


which  afford  a  little  variety,  as  wharves  are  usually 
constructed  at  their  mouths,  where  a  sloop  or  two 
receive  their  cargoes  of  timber  or  produce  for  New- 
York. 

Crom  Elbow  is  a  sudden  bend  in  the  river,  four 
miles  above  Poughkeepsie.  Above  this  place  the 
water  is  seldom  brackish.  Sometimes  it  is  quite 
fresh  for  miles  below. 

Hyde  Park  (east  side)  lies  a  little  above ;  then 
we  pass  PelhanUi  on  the  west,  and  Staatshurghi  on 
the  east. 

Kingston. — The  Delaware  and  Hudson  CanaU 
which  was  commenced  in  July,  1825,  and  com- 
pleted, with  the  works  in  connexion  with  it,  near 
the  close  of  1829,  extends  from  a  point  on  the 
Rondout,  about  four  miles  from  the  junction  of  the 
Walkill  with  the  Hudson,  to  the  coal  mines  on  the 
Lackawana  Creek,  in  Pennsylvania.  The  whole 
route  is  now  complete.  The  chief  part  of  it,  sixty- 
five  miles,  passes  through  a  valley  two  or  three 
miles  wide,  in  a  south-westerly  direction,  to  the 
Delaware. 

The  country  at  the  opening  of  the  canal  is  re- 
markably irregular  and  wild.  On  rising  from  the 
level  of  the  river  by  locks  into  the  basin,  a  wild  as- 
semblage of  rocks,  steep  hills,  and  forest-trees  is 
suddenly  presented  to  the  view,  with  a  few  build- 
ings ;  and  after  passing  through  a  deep  cut,  where 
the  work  is  very  neat,  and  under  a  high  bridge,  the 
boat  enters  the  river,  whose  6,:^ooth  and  grassy  shore 
offers  a  very  convenient  towing-path. 

The  canal  is  thirty-six  feet  in  breadth  at  the  sur- 
face, and  four  feet  deep.  The  locks  are  nine  feet 
wide,  seventy-two  feet  in  length  between  the 
gates,  from  eight  to  eleven  feet  lift,  and  built  of 
stone. 

The  country  has  one  peculiar  feature  on  the 
route  from  the  Hudson  to  the  Delaware, — it  seems 
as  if  it  might  have  afforded  a  channel  to  Jhc  Dela- 


\lv 


DELAWARE  AND  HUDSON  CANAL. 


29 


then 


sur- 

feet 

1   the 

It  of 

the 
;ems 
^ela» 


ware  before  its  waters  forced  for  themselves  a  new 
passage  through  the  Blue  Ridge.  The  elevation  of 
this  land  is  eighty  feet  above  the  present  level  of 
that  river. 

High  Falls,— kt  the  High  Falls  on  the  Rondout 
River,  the  canal  passes  over  a  hewn-stone  aqueduct 
of  two  arches,  just  above  which  the  cascade  is 
seen,  fifty  feet  high.  The  falls  and  the  aqueduct 
both  present  a  fine  and  striking  appearance;  the 
effect  of  which  is  still  farther  increased  by  the  pas- 
iage  of  the  Five  LockSf  by  which  the  ascent  is  sur^ 
mounted. 

The  Summit  Level  is  about  midway  between  the 
Hudson  and  Delaware,  at  a  place  formerly  called 
Rome,  and  now  Wurtzborough. 

The  JVeversink  River  is  crossed  on  an  aqueduct, 
and  the  canal  then  pursues  the  course  of  that  river, 

CarpenUr''s  Point,  on  the  Delaware,  is  the  place 
where  the  canal  meets  that  river,  on  the  line  of  New- 
Jersey  ;  and  it  then  proceeds  north-westerly,  along 
its  course. 

The  excavations  of  rocks  along  the  bank  of  the 
Delaware,  required  for  the  passage  of  the  canal,  are 
in  many  places  on  a  vast  scale ;  and  the  variety  of 
natural  scenery  and  artificial  constructions  presented 
to  the  traveller  is  highly  agreeable  and  picturesque. 
A  wall  of  stone  rising  from  the  river's  bank,  varying 
in  height  from  ten  to  twenty  and  thirty  feet,  supports 
the  canal  and  tow-path,  in  many  places  where  the 
rocks  have  been  blasted  out  with  great  expense  to 
afford  it  a  passage. 

Butler's  Falls. — At  this  place  the  mountains  rise 
to  the  height  of  several  hundred  feet,  and  a  rock, 
which  appeared  to  present  a  natural  insurmountable 
obstacle,  has  been  cut  away  with  immense  labour 
just  over  the  tumultuous  stream,  so  that  boats  pass 
along  the  smooth  surface  of  the  canal  without  diffi-* 
culty  or  exposure,  within  a  short  distance  of  an  im- 
|)etqoi}3  current, 

P2 


1 1 


I 


\ 


\ 


r 


f- 


so 


NEW-YOKK   TO  ALBANY. 


The  Dam  and  Aqueduct  over  the  Delaware. — The 
canal  crosses  the  Delaware  opposite  the  mouth  of 
the  Lackawaxen  River,  on  a  dam  four  feet  in  height ; 
after  which  it  enters  the  valley  of  that  stream. 

The  Lackawaxen  River. — Along  the  bank  of  this 
river  the  canal  passes  for  a  distance  of  about  20 
miles,  supported  for  a  great  part  of  the  way  on  a  wall 
of  stone.  The  wildness  of  the  country  on  either 
aide  will  offer  continually  striking  objects  to  the  tra- 
veller. 

Honesdale. — This  village  stands  at  the  forks  of 
the  Dyberry,  at  the  spot  where  the  railway  meets 
the  canal  at  its  termination.  Only  a  few  buildings 
have  as  yet  been  erected  at  this  place. 

The  Railway^  by  which  the  coal  is  brought  from 
the  mines,  is  provided  with  steam  engiites  to  move 
the  carts.     (We  return  to  Hudson  River.) 

Rhinebecky  (east,)  17  miles  above  Poughkeepsie. 
There  is  much  manufacturing  carried  on  in  this 
township ;  and  a  little  in  the  interior  is  some  very 
good  land  at  Rhinebeck  Flats.  Rhinebeck  derives 
its  name  from  the  river  Rhine  in  Germany,  (from 
which  country  it  received  its  inhabitants,)  and  Beek- 
man,  an  individual  of  the  number.  Gypsum  has 
been  used  with  much  effect  on  the  land. 

Saugerties. — Here  is  a  large  manufacturing  place 
established  by  Henry  Barclay,  Esq.  of  New- York. 
By  a  large  stone  dam  on  Esopu^  Creek  he  obtains  a 
supply  of  water  at  a  fall  of  nearly  50  feet,  which 
may  be  twice  used  on  great  wheels.  The  canal  or 
sluice  conducts  it  about  two  hundred  yards  through 
rocks  65  feet  high.  Here  is  a  mill  for  paper  on  the 
latest  English  mode,  making  it  in  a  continued  sheet. 
The  iron  rolling  and  puddling  mill  is  169  feet  long, 
rolls  200  tons  a  week,  and  can  do  double  that  work. 
There  is  an  hotel  in  an  elevated  situation ;  and  the 
traveller  will  find  great  attractions  there  in  the  near 
and  distant  scenery. 

The  scenery  of  the  western  bank  of  the  Hudson 
is  varied  and  beautiful  here  for  several  miles. 


:i.  .-i-OiSS^-^-i^.i;)-   .4"-^ 


.,* 


.■.>i^'*»i, 


•.•;.•  '•*  ••; 


1  .f;        V. 


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I 


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s 


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'*''',* 

,■■*  ' 

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■•'••. 

■    •_- 

■  /'if-''  • 

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■  '^^^' 


■"y.''^^hm^^f-^^pff% 


^•rt?. 


f 


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If 


■•'f  [   ''-'■  ^'y 


11  U  T  C  li  E  S*  S       CO. 

Rhineljock. 


j?;.,.7c.f 


I 


TIIB   CATSKILL  MOUNT AIXP. 


31 


I' 


1 


x^ 


y.i 


tdsou 


:..   ^ 


CO. 


Red  Hook,  (east.)  There  are  two  landings  in  this 
town  ;  and  several  fine  seats  of  the  opulent  families 
of  the  Livingstons  will  be  observed  at  intervals  on 
that  shore.  That  of  the  late  Chancellor  Livingston 
is  91  feet  by  104.  The  ancient  Manor  or  lordship 
of  the  Livingstons  formerly  included  Clermont, 
(14,000  acres,)  the  Manor,  f  146,000,)  and  East  Camp, 
or  Palatine,  (6000.)  This  last  was  settled  by  exiles 
from  the  Palatinate,  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Anne. 

THE   CATSKILL  MOUNTAINS.        :: 

As  the  traveller  proceeds  he  observes  the  distant 
ridge  of  the  Catskill  Mountains  more  distinctly, 
which  limit  the  view  north  and  westerly  for  many 
miles,  and  form  a  grand  feature  in  the  scene.  They 
nowhere  approach  nearer  to  the  river  than  8  miles, 
and  in  some  places  retire  15  and  even  20. 

An  excursion  to  the  summit  of  these  mountains  is 
performed  by  great  numbers  of  travellers  ;  and  in- 
deed has  become  so  favourite  an  enterprise,  that  it 
may  very  properly  be  ranged  among  the  principal 
objects  m  the  great  tour  which  we  are  just  com- 
mencing. The  visit  may  be  accomplished  in  one 
day,  though  two  or  three  may  be  agreeably  spent  in 
examining,  at  leisure,  the  grand  and  beautiful  scenery 
of  that  romantic  neighbourhood.  There  is  a  large 
and  commodious  house  of  entertainment  erected  at 
the  Pine  Orchard,  one  of  the  peaks  of  the  moun- 
tain, about  3000  feet  above  the  river.  It  is  visible 
from  the  steamboat ;  and  the  ascent  to  it  is  per- 
formed without  fatigue,  in  private  carriages  or  a 
stage  coach,  which  goes  and  returns  regularly  twice 
a  day.  (There  is  a  spring  of  carburetted  hydrogen 
in  Catskill  Creek.) 

The  place  to  land  for  this  excursion  is  Catskill, 
where  begins  a  turnpike  road  to  Ithaca,*    Taking 

♦  The  contemplated  railroad  from  Iiliaca  to  Catskill,  N.  Y.  is  pro- 
poBed  to  be  commenced  and  continued  through  a  corner  of  dcohuri« 


Boolttr 


32 


NEW-YORK  TO   ALBAlfT, 


the  stage  coach  here,  for  $1  you  proceed  towards  the 
Pine  Orchard,  passing  a  good  inn  at  the  distance  of 
J  miles  (G'lO  feet  above  the  river),  and  then  begin- 
ning the  ascent,  which  is  surmounted  by  a  winding 
road  that  affords  much  wild  scenery  and  many  a 
gUmpse  at  the  surrounding  country.*  Five  miles  of 
f  uch  travelling  brings  the  visiter  to 

The  Pine  Ch-chard.  This  is  a  small  plain,  8214 
feet  above  the  river,  scattered  with  forest  trees,  and 
furnished  with  an  elegant  house  of  great  size,  built 
for  the  accommodation  of  visiters,  and  heretofore 
excellently  kept.  The  Hudson  is  seen  winding 
from  afar  through  its  verdant  valley,  its  margin 
adorned  with  villages,  and  its  surface  enlivened  with 
vessels  of  various  descriptions.  Immediately  below 
is  seen  a  region  of  uncultivated  mountains,  which 
is  strikingly  contrasted  with  the  charming  aspect  of 
fertility  that  reigns  beyond,  and  presents  all  the 
variety  of  hill  and  vale,  town,  hamlet,  and  cottage. 

The  Pine  Orchard  is  the  resort  of  so  much  com-i 
pany  during  the  pleasant  seasons  of  the  year,  that 
the  attractions  of  its  scenery  are  redoubled  by  the 
presence  of  agreeable  and  refined  society.  Indi- 
viduals of  taste  and  leisure,  and  still  more  parties 
of  travellers,  will  thus  often  enjoy  a  gratification 
which  is  rarely  to  be  found  in  a  place  naturally  so 
wild  and  difficult  of  access. 

llie  Round  Top  is  a  summit  of  greater  elevation 


\', 


eounty,  lo  tlie  head  waters  of  tlio  Dclawars ;  thence  to  the  SuBquehan- 
nah;  thence  either  direct  to  Ithnca  or  down  the  Susquehannali  nearly 
to  the  Pennsylvania  line ;  and  thence  to  interssittlie  Ithaca  and  Owego 
railway,  at  the  latter  place.  The  dutanc«  is  IGO  miles,  and  the  highnt 
estimated  expense  91|300,()00. 

*  The  forests  of  this  mountainous  refrion  furnish  immense  qnantiiies 
of  the  bark  used  in  tanning  leather;  and  not  less  than  23  tanneries  are 
in  operation  in  tiiis  county,  which  supply  about  fout-hfths  of  the  leather 
annually  inspected  in  the  city  of  New- York.  (Edwards'  large  tannery 
is  in  the  town  of  Hunter.)  Water  power  is  advantageously  introduced 
to  aid  in  some  parts  of  the  process ;  and  the  cu.stom  has  been  adopted 
of  soaking  the  bark  hi  heated  water.  More  than  ]55,UU0  hides  were 
tjM)Md  in  Greene  County  in  1836,  valued  ett  more  than  9400,000. 


CATSKILL   MOUNTAINS. 


33 


towards  the  south,  from  which  the  view  is  more  ex- 
tensive.    It  is  3,718  feL't  above  the  ocean. 

On  the  west  side  of  tiie  river  is  seen  part  of  the 
counties  of  Albany,  Greerus  Ulster,  and  Oranpje;  and 
on  the  east,  part  of  Putnam  county,  and  all  of 
Dutehess,  Columbia,  and  Rensselaer.  The  distant 
hijj:h  land  in  tlie  east  belongs  partly  to  Taughkannuc 
and  Saddle  Mountains,  in  Massachusetts,  and  per- 
liaps  partly  to  the  Green  Mountains  in  Vermont. 
Lower  down  is  discovc^red  a  range  of  hills  in  the 
western  counties  of  Connecticut.  The  eye  em- 
braces a  tract  of  country  about  100  miles  in  length, 
and  50  in  breadth;  and  a  large  part  of  it  is  supposed, 
by  geologists,  to  have  formed  the  bed  of  a  great  lake 
in  some  long  past  age,  when  the  Hudson  was  thrown 
back  by  the  barrier  presented  at  the  Highlands,  be- 
fore the  present  chasm  had  been  cut  for  its  passage. 

The  Cascctdes.  There  is  a  singular  and  highly 
ro*^antic  scene  which  has  been  intentionally  reserved 
f'  '\e  last.  A  path  leads  through  the  woods  to  the 
c.  _^des,  passing  near  two  small  lakes,  from  which 
the  supply  of  water  is  derived.  Carriages  may 
generally  be  procured  to  take  visiters  to  the  spot. 

The  stream  flows  through  the  woods  to  where  the 
level  terminates,  very  abruptly,  at  a  high  and  shelv- 
ing precipice,  descending  into  a  tremendous  gorge 
between  ridges  of  gloomy  mountains.  The  first  fall 
is  175  feet,  and  the  second  80 :  both  perpendicular, 
without  a  single  protruding  rock  to  break  the  snow- 
white  sheet. 

A  building  is  erected,  where  refreshments  may  be 
obtained ;  and  on  the  right  is  a  steep  path  by  which 
even  ladies  may  descend  in  safety  to  the  foot  of  the 
falls. 

There  is  a  cavern  under  the  first  cataract,  where 
the  shelving  rock  shelters  the  stranger  from  the 
spray,  and  throws  a  dark  shade  around  him,  which 
sets  off,  in  the  most  beautiful  manner,  the  wild 
scenery  below.  The  cavern  is  formed  by  the  wear- 


1 


»   »    ■"IT'',""'" 


84 


NEW- YORK   TO   .M.nA.7fY. 


I 


I 


inpf  nwny  of  tlio  sandstone  rorks,  wliilo  the  stratum 
of  Kmy^^''^<''^t^  renin  ins  nnlin|)aire(l. 

At  a  little  distance  the  strenni  takes  its  seeond 
leap  into  a  dark  ahyss  ;  and  from  a  rock  at  tliat 
phir(\  it  is  seen  rushinp;  tuninhiionsly  ah)n<j  over  a 
steep  and  rocky  channel,  windinsrl'<"t\V(Hm  tl;o  hases 
of  the  nionntaind  until  it  jirachially  sweeps  away 
towards  the  sor.tli,  and  dis;i|)p  \irs  among;  <!ie  rudo 
sc(Miery  il;;:   surronnds  it. 

A HrrR ratify ini»  his  cu.iosity  and  taste  witii  scenes 
like  these,  tlu^  traveller  will  return  to  (^alokill  to 
take  the  next  steaud)oat :  and  hy  makinj^  t.h(»  neces- 
sary arrani»<Mnents,  he  can  proceed  up  the  river  with 
very  little  delay. 

Whtcr  iravcfh'ns;  on  the  Htufson.  The  scenes  pre- 
sented dnrinnf  tlu»  winter  along-  the  course  oT  this 
nohlo  river  are  very  ditVcrent  from  those  which  meet 
the  eye  of  the  traveller  in  the  warm  seasons.  The 
common  routes,  durinii^  nhout  three  monthsv  lying 
along"  the  banks,  are  rouirh  a»'d  monntaintius  for  a 
considerable  part  of  the  distance,  and  are  often  ren- 
dered difficult,  and  even  in  some  dr^rroe  hazardous,  by 
the  frost,  ice,  and  snow.  The  river  is  oft(*n  used  as  a 
road  for  some  miles,  and  sometimes  by  stage  coaches. 
Durinjr  the  severe  weather,  in  a  part  of  .lanuary  and 
February,  IS'M,  for  example,  travellers  passed  daily 
on  the  river  tlirough  a  considerable  portion  of  the 
Highlands.  Sloop  navigation  is  always  suspcndea 
from  tlie  closini:  until  the  clearing  of  tlie  river;  but 
for  a  few  years  one  or  two  steamboats  have  pene- 
trat(Ml  through  tlic  ice  in  repeated  instances,  when  it 
would  have  been  impossible  to  proceed  by  other 
nieaup.  The  following  description  of  a  winter  pas- 
sage on  tlie  Hudson  has  been  obtained  from  an  eye- 
witness, under  a  belief  that  it  would  be  read  with 
intei?st  by  travellers  for  pleasure  in  the  warm  and 
pleasant  season  of  the  year. 

The  steamboat  Commerce,  doubly  sheatlied  with 


IIIIDSON. 


3ft 


7  and 
daily 
.f  thG 

lendcu 
but 


wood  and  iron,  in  the  middle  of  January,  1H30,  wont 
u|)  tlie  rivrr  to  PouKlike(.'i)8ie,  and  returned,  by  forrtuff 
li(!r  way  for  a  ^ivMi  part  of  the  di.stancc?  tliroufrh  ico 
of  considerable  tliickness.  SIk;  ieft  I'ouyhkecjpsio 
at  about  —  o'clock  in  the  nij^ht,  with  about  40  |)as- 
8(!n»jers.  Tlie  thermometer  was  4"^  below  zero  dur- 
h])r  Uie  (lay,  with  a  north-westerly  gale  ;  and  liien  5^^* 
or  G'^.  Tiiere  was  but  little  snow  on  the  land.  I'he 
only  way  of  proceediufr  was  by  keepinji^  the  wake  ia 
which  the  boat  had  come  up,  as  the  ice,  which  en- 
tirely covennl  the  river  betwe(!n  Albany  and  Athens, 
was  ev(;ry  where  else  too  thick.  The  stars  shone 
very  briji^ht,  and  an  unbrok(ni  surface  of  ice  extended 
up  and  down  the  Hudson,  while  all  was  silent  on  the 
shore.  The  boat,  impcdled  by  her  powerful  en^rine, 
proceeded  with  j^rcat  dillicully  for  (ive  or  six  mUes  ; 
for  the  wheels  had  to  brei^k  ice  three  or  four  inches 
in  thickiHJSs,  and  the  way  was  occasionally  ob- 
structed by  masses  of  ice  which  had  been  broken 
before,  heaped  up  in  the  channel,  and  frozen  into  a 
solid  body.  These  it  was  nectjssary  to  demolish, 
one  by  one  ;  and  the  boat  was  run  against  them  with 
her  force  sometimes  five  or  six  times,  until  they  ^rave 
way.  At  first  she  was  thrown  back  with  great  force, 
and  jarred,  and  trembled  like  an  ox  under  a  blow 
from  a  butcher ;  but  at  length  the  ice  would  give 
way  with  a  tremendou*  crash,  and  tlie  fragments 
would  grind  heavily  against  the  boat  as  she  moved 
onward.  Tliese  groaning  sounds,  and  the  more 
shrill  noiee  caused  by  the  cracking  and  breaking  of 
the  thinner  ice,  were  sometimes  heard  echoed  back 
from  the  banks  and  distant  lull.',  and  rendered  the 
scene  more  appalling.  In  this  manner  the  boat  pro- 
ceeded, butting  down  the  almost  impenetrable  walls 
of  ice.  like  the  battering  rams  of  the  ancients  demol- 
ishing the  gate  or  towers  of  a  fortress. 

On  approacliingthe  Highlands,  the  tall  mountains 
offered  only  a  nariow  entrance,  like  the  mouth  of  a 
cavern,  and  shut  out  much  of  the  light  of  tlie  &ky. 


36 


NEW-YORK  TO  ALBANY. 


I 


ll    t 


■s. 


The  scenes  presented  during  our  passage  through 
them  were  grand,  and  even  terrific.  The  ice  was 
thinner,  but  made  a  continued,  loud,  and  piercing 
noise,  while  giving  way  under  the  wheels,  and  before 
the  bows  of  the  steamboat.  Besides  this,  no  sound 
was  heard  except  that  of  the  wind,  which  often  blows 
in  violent  gusts  through  the  passes  in  the  moun- 
tains. On  emerging  froni  the  Highlands  at  Ver- 
plank's  Point,  the  sky  was  again  displayed  to  view, 
with  the  stars  still  brilliantly  shining  :  and  the  Ice, 
which  had  already  begun  to  close  again  behind  us, 
was  not  disturbed  again  until  the  approach  of  the 
following  spring. 

THE  CITY  OF  HUDSON,  5J  miles. 

This  la  one  of  the  largest  and  most  important 
towns  on  the  river,  and  occupies  a  commanding  emi- 
nence on  the  eastern  bank,  with  several  ranges  of 
large  stores  built  near  the  water's  level.  On  the 
brow  of  the  ascent  from  the  water  is  a  favourite 
promenade,  from  which  a  charming  view  is  enjoyed 
of  the  river  and  the  opposite  Catskill  mountains. 
The  western  shore  is  variegated  and  beautiful,  and 
contains  the  village  of  Athens. 

It  may  be  recommended  to  the  traveller  who 
wishes  to  visit  New-Lebanon  Springs,  to  land  here 
and  take  the  stage  coaches.  In  1 827  this  route  began 
to  be  very  common;  and  it  was  estimated  that 
1200  travellers  passed  through  Hudson  every  week 
of  the  travelling  season. 

Daily  lines  of  stage  coaches  are  now  established 
between  Hudson  and  New-Lebanon ;  and  travellers 
leaving  New- York  in  an  evening  boat  sometimes 
reach  the  latter  place  the  next  day  before  dinner. 
From  Hudson  to  New-Lebanon  is  28  miles. 

The  Union  road  to  New-Lebanon  is  a  good  one, 
and  passes  through  a  varied,  well  cultivated,  and 
agreeable  tract  of  country.    Stage  coaches  go  from 


tj 


NLW-YOKlt    TO   ALBANY. 


37 


who 
here 


one, 

and 

from 


Bryan  &  Smith's  inn ;  and  parties  can  at  any  time 
be  furnished  with  comfortable  carriages.  Stage 
coaches  go  daily  to  Lenox,  Stockbridge,  Pittsfield, 
&c.  At  Egremont,  they  exchange  passengers  with 
the  coaches  for  Sheffield,  Hartford,  and  New-Haven. 

At  Hudson  carriages  may  be  engaged  for  Catskill 
Mountains. 

The  Columbia  Spring  is  a  place  of  some  resort, 
and  the  water  is  considered  effectual  in  cases  of 
scrofula. 

There  are  extensive  manufactories   of    cotton, 
calico,  &c.  &c.  in  this  vicinity. 

Claverack  is  a  pleasant  village  a  few  miles  from 
Hudson. 

The  Great  Falls  is  a  romantic  cascade,  about  9 
miles  from  Hudson,  near  the  old  post  route.  A 
stream  is  precipitated  down  a  precipice  of  dark 
rocks,  into  a  deep  chasm  shaded  with  forest  trees, 
and  presenting  a  most  picturesque  and  striking 
scene.  The  place  is  lately  visited  every  season  by 
numbers  of  travellers ;  and  it  is  to  be  regretted  that 
there  is  no  house  of  entertainment  in  the  vicinity. 

There  is  a  large  manufactory  about  250  y  Ig 
from  the  cascade,  owned  by  Mr.  Philips.  A  path 
leads  thence,  along  the  high  and  steep  bank  of  the 
stream,  to  the  foot.  The  ascent  to  the  top  of  the 
falls  is  also  accessible,  and  affords  another  fine  view. 
The  whole  descent  of  the  water  is  said  to  be  about 
150  feet,  and  it  is  interrupted  only  by  a  narrow  rock 
projecting  20  feet  from  the  precipice,  about  half  way 
down.  The  basin  which  receives  the  stream  is 
large,  deep,  and  gloomy;  being  so  surrounded  by 
high  hills  that  the  sun  falls  into  it  only  during  a 
short  time  about  noon.  The  finest  view  is  perhaps 
from  the  side jbf  the  basin  opposite  the  fulls.  Above 
the  cascade^pie  bed  of  the  stream  is  strewn  with 
rude  blocksm  slate,  20  or  30  feet  across,  which  are 
channelled  py  the  water,  and  in  some  places  piled 
together  so  as  to  form  little  caverns. 

£ 


38 


CITY    OP   ALBANY. 


V 


^        [For  New-Lebanon  Springs,  seepage  42.] 

Surveys  have  been  made  at  the  expense  of  the 
legislature  of  Massachusetts  of  a  route  for  a  rail- 
way from  Boston  to  Springfield,  and  by  Castleton, 
ttear  this  place,  to  the  Hudson.  The  route  crosses 
the  Kinderhook,  And  passes  an  extensive  plain.  It 
comes  through  Srockbridge,  Mass.  The  survey  has 
been  extended  along  the  Hudson  to  Greenbush,  to 
communicate  with  the  canals.  The  State  of  New- 
York  has  co-operated,  but  a  bill  authorizing  the  work 
was  rejected  in  the  Masbdchuselts  legislature,  in 
1830,  by  a  large  majority. 

Various  plans  have  been  proposed  for  the  improve- 
ment of  the  navigation  of  this  river,  and  some  have 
been  attempted.  Nearly  $150,000  have  been  ex- 
pended since  the  year  1797,  about  $30,000  of  which 
was  by  the  State. 

The  Overslaugh,  4  miles  from  Albany,  is  a  place 
where  the  channel  is  narrow  and  crooked  ;  and  much 
labour  has  been  resorted  to  in  deepening  it. 

ALBANY,  145  miles  from  New- York. 

Hotels,  Inns,  ^c.  American  Hotel,  State-street, 
(Mr.  Drake) ;  Eagle  Tavern,  corner  of  South  Market 
and  Hamilton-streets  (Cruttenden  &  Mather) ;  Park 
Place  House,  Capitol-Hill  (Cruttenden);  Adelphi 
Hote^  State-street;  Mansion  House,  North  Market- 
street  (Mrs.  Rockwell) ;  City  Hotel,  do.  (Chapin  & 
Cru'kshank);  Bennett's  Hotel,  (latn  State-street 
House),  State-street;  Columbian  and  National  Ho- 
tel, South  Market-street  (Jessup  Haywood) ;  Al- 
bany Coffee-House,  Green-street  (Mr.  Homans) ; 
City  Coffee-House,  corner  of  North  Market  and  Steu- 
ben-streets  (Gould  &  Co.) ;  Montgomery-Hall,  South 
Market-street  (Mr.  Chapin);  Fort  Orange  Hctel, 
South  Market-street;  Connecticut  Coffee-Hoise, 
South  Market-street;  Exchange  Coffee  Hf^nse, 
corner  of  South   Market    and   Hamilton-streets; 


'H 


CITY   OF   ALBANY. 


se 


of  the 
a  rail- 
tleton, 
irosses 
in.  It 
ey  has 
ash,  to 
■  New- 
ework 
are,  in 

iprove- 

le  have 

len  ex- 

which 

1  place 
dmuch 


-street, 
Market 
Park 
Idelphi 
larket- 
ipin  & 
street 
al  Ho- 
Al- 
nans) ; 
cl  Steu- 
South 
Hctel, 
loL'se, 
louse, 
reets ; 


Crosby's,  comer  of  South  Pearl  and  Beaver- 
streets  ;  Washington  Hall,  South  Pearl-street ;  Utica 
House,  corner  of  South  Market  and  Church-streets; 
Merchants'  Hotel,  State-street;  Franklin  House, 
State-street ;  City  Tavern  (P.  Germond),  Greene- 
street;  Stone  House  (P.  J.  Lewis),  do. ;  Payn's  Tav- 
ern, North  Market-street.  There  are  also  numerous 
good  boarding-houses. 

Routes  from  Albany,  Stage  coaches  run  daily 
towards  all  the  four  cardinal  points ;  and  six  or  eight 
frequently  set  off  in  the  same  direction.  Indeed,  the 
number  is  often  much  greater  than  this  when  the 
full  crowd  of  travellers  is  pressing  towards  the 
Springs.  Stage  coaches  go  daily  for  Montreal,  on 
both  sides  of  Lake  Champlain.  The  road  to  Troy 
(6  miles)  is  Macadamized,  and  one  of  the  best  in 
the  United  States.  By  steady  travelling,  you  may 
go  to  Buffalo  in  three  days,  296  miles.  Two  or  three 
steamboats  go  daily  to  New- York.  The  freight 
boats  of  different  companies  are  very  numerous, 
and  have  been  fitted  up  very  comfortably  for  pas- 
sengers. 

For  the  Route  to  Niagara^  see  beyond.  For  other 
routes,  &c.  see  index;  also  "Remarks'*  at  Ballston 
Springs. 

The  Capitol,  or  State  House,  occupies  a  command- 
ing position,  and  contains  the  Assembly  and  Senate 
Chambers,  the  Supreme  Court,  the  County  Court, 
&c.  &c.  It  is  115  feet  in  length,  90  in  breadth,  and 
50  high.  In  the  Senate  Chamber  is  a  portrait  of  Co- 
lumbus, copied  from  an  original  in  1592.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river  is  Greenbush,  for  more 
than  a  century  a  cantonment.  This  is  the  first  point 
worthy  of  notice,  connected  with  the  colonial  wars 
against  Canada.  At  Greenbush,  the  troops  supplied 
in  quotas  by  the  eastern  colonies,  used  to  meet  those 
of  New- York ;  and  hence  they  proceeded,  under 
commanders  appointed  by  the  British  government, 
against  their  enemies  in  the  north. 


40 


CITY  OF  ALBANY. 


The  Academy,  iu8t  north  of  the  Capitol,  is  a  large 
institution  for  the  higher  branches  of  education. 

The  City  Hall  has  been  erected  in  Eagle-street, 
near  Maiden-Lane,  and  is  a  fine  building  of  marble 
from  Singsing. 

Albany  shows  more  substantial  and  extensive  evi« 
jl  dences  of  improvement,  induced  by  the  canal,  than 

I  any  other  place  in  the  State.    Being  situated  at  the 

important  point  where  the  transhipments  are  made 
of  the  products  and  foreign  merchandise  annually 
passing  by  this  route,  and  being  also  the  seat  of  gov- 
ernment, and  a  great  thoroughfare  for  travellers,  the 
prosperity  of  the  city  has  been  wonderful,  and  the 
population  has  increased,  since  1825,  from  15,971  to 
S4,236.  The  communication  with  the  most  impor- 
tant places  in  all  directions  is  constant  and  rapid, 
by  numerous  lines  of  stage  coaches;  while  several 
of  the  most  elegant  and  spacious  steamboats  leave 
the  docks  daily  for  New- York.    The  scenery  on 

g'  lat  route  the  traveller  must  not  fail  to  see,  as  the 
udsou  is  famous  above  all  other  rivers  in  the  United 
States  for  the  beauty  and  sublimity  of  its  shores. 
[The  names  and  size  of  the  steamboats  are  given 
under  "  New- York."] 

The  first  settlement  was  made  at  Albany  about 
1614,  when  a  stockade  was  built  in  what  was  called 
the  Pasture,  on  a  spot  just  above  the  lower  steam- 
boat dock.  In  1623  the  fort  was  enlarged,  and  the 
settlement  received  the  name  of  Fort  Orange.  After- 
ward a  fort  of  larger  size  was  built  on  the  neigh- 
bouring hill,  and  the  place  was  then  sometimes 
called  Wiiliamstadt.  In  1664,  the  English  comings 
into  possession  of  the  country,  the  place  received 
its  present  name,  after  the  Duke  of  York  and  Albany, 
The  charter  of  the  city  was  granted  in  1686,  a  few 
months  before  that  of  New- York.  The  city  and 
township  extend  13  miles  along  the  river,  and  are 
one  mile  in  breadth. 

The  Capitol,  which  makes  a  conspicuous  appear* 


C;iT3r   OP  ALBANY. 


41 


ance  from  a  distance  in  many  directions,  is  situated 
at  the  head  of  State-street,  on  the  brow  of  the  hill, 
which  is  220  feet  high  at  its  greatest  elevation.  If 
the  traveller  is  landed  at  the  upper  steamboat  wharf, 
he  will  find  himself  near  the  centre  of  the  city,  after 
crossing  the  grand  canal  basin  by  a  bridge.  Here  will 
be  seen  long  ranges  of  fine  stores,  and  many  sloops 
and  canal  boats,  which  are  admitted  by  locks  from 
the  canal  and  the  river,  and  are  drawn  up  side 
by  side  to  discharge  or  receive  their  cargoes ;  while 
immense  quantities  of  produce  and  foreign  mer- 
chandise of  different  kinds  are  generally  seen  on  all 
sides. 

Mineral  Springs.  In  1828  a  spring  was  opened 
in  Mr.  McCullock*s  garden,  by  boring  617  feet,  which 
has  obtained  much  celebrity. 

Upon  comparing  the  analysis  with  that  of  various 
springs  at  Saratoga,  it  appears  that  the  water  does 
not  essentially  differ  from  them.  The  quantity  of 
salts  in  the  latter  is  nearly  as  great  as  that  in  the 
Congress  waters,  which  are  preferred  by  many  per- 
sons to  all  the  springs  at  Saratoga  or  Ballston. 

The  Farmers^  and  Mechanics''  Bank,  and  the  Albany 
Bank,  both  at  the  foot  of  State-street,  are  handsome 
building:s  of  white  marble.  There  are  several  others 
in  the  city.  State-street  deserves  to  be  mentioned, 
on  account  of  its  remarkable  breadth  and  fine 
appearance.  There  are  sixteen  churches  in  Albany, 
six  of  which  are  built  of  stone,  seven  of  brick,  and 
the  rest  of  wood.  The  Museum  is  in  South  Market- 
street. 

The  Mohawk  and  Hudson  Railroad,  from  this 'city 
to  Schenectady,  14  miles,  is  partly  constructed,  and 
is  expected  to  be  in  use  in  August,  1831.  It  will 
hereafter  become  a  highly  interesting  object  to  tra- 
Tellers,  as  well  as  a  most  rapid  and  convenient  means 
of  conveyance.  The  route  of  the  Erie  canal  between 
these  two  places  is  very  circuitous,  and  obstructed 
by  locks.    The  delay  in  transportation  is  necessarily 


42 


NEW-LEBAI70N    SPRINGS. 


often  considerable ;  and  in  order  to  obviate  the  incon- 
venience, this  railroad  has  been  commenced,  en- 
couraged by  recent  success  in  this  country  as  well 
as  in  England.  The  most  improved  plans,  machines, 
&c.  have  been  sought  for,  and  the  stranger  will  be 
pleased,  even  in  the  present  state  of  the  work,  with 
a  walk  or  a  ride  of  about  two  miles,  south-west, 
to  visit  it.  After  surmounting  the  high  ground  near 
the  river,  the  route  proceeds  for  14  miles  over  a  dead 
sandy  level,  and  then  has  only  to  descend  again  to 
Schenectady. 

Railroads  from  Schenectady  to  Saratoga,  and  to 
Utica,  are  also  proposed ;  and  the  former,  it  is  pro- 
bable, may  be  undertaken  before  the  next  travelling 
season  will  arrive.  It  may  hereafter  form  an  attract- 
ive object  to  the  readers  of  the  "Northern  Tra- 
veller." 

It  is  estimated  that  the  railroad  from  Schenectady 
to  Saratoga  will  cost  from  g222,000  to  g240,000,  and 
that  the  annual  income  would  be  g40,000. 

LEBANON  SPRINGS,  26  miles  east  from  Albany. 

JVeW'Lebanon  Springs  is  one  of  the  most  delightful 
resorts  for  strangers,  in  point  of  situation,  being  in 
this  respect  incomparably  superior  to  either  of  the 
great  watering-places,  Saratoga  and  Ballston.  Among 
all  the  places  which  might  have  been  selected  for  an 
agreeable  residence  in  the  warm  seasons,  and  calcu- 
lated to  please  a  taste  for  the  softer  beauties  of  na- 
ture, none  perhaps  could  have  been  found  more 
eligible  than  that  we  are  about  to  describe. 

The  village  of  New-^Lebanon  is  situated  in  a  little 
valley,  surrounded  by  fine  hills,  or  rather  spurs  from 
two  ranges  of  high  ground,  descending  with  a  rich 
and  graceful  slope  on  every  side  to  its  borders.  The 
valley  is  almost  a  perfect  level,  which  contrasts  de- 
lightfully with  the  bold  sides  of  the  uplands,  some 
of  which  are  divested  of  their  forests,  and  orn^? 


m0tmitmsx:.ir-.^-ni-* 


NEW-LEBANON    SP]{ING3. 


4!) 


Ml 


merited  with  cultivated  fields  and  farms,  presenting 
a  rich  variety  to  the  eye  wherever  it  turns. 

On  the  side  of  a  hill  about  two  miles  east  from  the 
village,  and  about  half  way  to  the  summit  of  the 
ridge,  issues  out  a  spring  of  clear  warm  water, 
which,  although  possessed  of  no  strong  mineral 
qualities,  has  given  the  place  its  celebrity ;  and  there 
stands  a  fine  and  spacious  hotel,  to  which  the  visiter 
will  direct  his  course. 

A  little  arbour  will  be  observed  on  the  acclivity 
of  tiiG  hill  above  the  house,  the  path  to  which  lies 
through  the  garden ;  and  there  an  uninterrupted  view 
will  be  enjoyed  over  the  surrounding  landscape.  A 
still  more  extensive  one  may  be  obtained  from  the 
summit  of  the  hill,  by  following  the  road  for  a  con- 
siderable distance  up,  and  then  turning  off  into  the 
fields.  But  the  former  point  of  view  will  be  most 
frequently  taken  by  visiters,  on  account  of  the  facil- 
ity of  access.  On  the  south-east  is  the  road  to 
Northampton ;  south-west  the  most  extensive  scene, 
and  the  road  to  the  Shaker  village ;  west,  village  of 
New-Lebanon,  and  road  to  Albany  and  Troy ;  north- 
west, the  side  of  a  fine  sloping  hill,  well  cultivated, 
and  near  at  hand. 

Distances.  To  Albany,  26  miles ;  Troy,  27. 
(This  is  the  shortest  way  to  Ballston  and  Saratoga 
Springs,  Lake  George,  &c.)  To  Hartford,  69; 
Hudson,  28. 

The  waters  of  the  spring  are  abundant,  and  much 
esteemed  for  bathing,  always  keeping  the  tempera- 
ture of  72°  Fahrenheit;  although  they  cannot  be 
supposed  to  possess  any  mineral  virtues,  as  may  be 
inferred  from  an  examination  ofthe  following  analysis 
given  by  Dr.  Meade,  and  quoted  by  Professor  Silli- 
man.    Two  quarts  of  the  Lebanon  water  contain 


Muriate  of  lime. 
Muriate  of  soda. 
Sulphate  of  lime, 
Carbonate  of  do. 


gram. 
3-4 
1-2 
3-4 

&  grains. 


Of  aerifortn  fluids. 

Nitrogen  gas,  13  cub.  in. 
Atmosph.  air,    8    do. 

21  cub.  in. 


44 


NIW-LKBANON    SPIMNflS. 


The  Lebanon  water  is  therefore  purer  than  most 
natural  waters,  and  purer  than  those  in  the  vicinity, 
which  flow  from  the  very  same  hill.  It  resembles 
very  much  the  Buxton  water  in  England,  though 
it  is  not  quite  so  warm ;  and  the  Bristol  water  is 
another  example  of  tepid  water  almost  entirely 
without  mineral  qualities.  Professor  Silliman  com- 
pares the  scenery  about  Lebanon  Sprinj^s  to  that  of 
Bath  in  Eng^land.  It  is,  however,  graduated  more 
on  those  principles  of  taste  which  habit  cherislies  in 
an  American,  as  it  abounds  far  more  in  the  deep 
hues  of  the  forest,  and  every  where  exhibits  the 
signs  of  progressive  improvement. 

Messrs.  Hull  and  Bentley's  house  at  the  Springs 
is  very  large,  commodious,  and  elegant;  and  has 
accommodated  300  persons  at  one  time.  The  at- 
tendance and  table  will  be  found  excellent,  and  Sara- 
toga and  Ballston  waters  may  be  obtained  at  the 
bar.  It  stands  close  by  the  spring,  and  is  furnished 
with  baths  supplied  with  the  water.  The  old  house 
measures  90  feet,  and  the  new  one  120  feet  long. 
They  stand  in  the  form  of  an  L,  and  a  fine  piazza 
runs  along  them  both,  measuring  220  feet.  The 
place  now  vies  with  Ballston  and  Saratoga,  and 
has  sometimes  counted  more  visiters  than  either  of 
them. 

There  is  a  small  fish-pond  in  the  neighbourhood. 

r   ROADS  FROM  LEBANON  SPRINGS. 

From  New-Lebanon  Springs  to  Troy  there  is  a 
very  good  road,  through  a  variegated  countrj^  Dis- 
tances as  follows ;  to  Nassau,  16  miles ;  thence  to 
Troy,  IL 

From  the  Springs  to  Hudson  is  28  miles,  and 
stage-coaches  go  ihitlier.  The  following  is  a  table 
of  distances  on  the  road  to  Boston : 

Pittsfield,*  7  miles  ;  Hinsdale,  9  ;  Peru,  4  ;  Wor- 
thington,  6 ;  Chesterfield,  6  ;  Northampton,!  13;  Had- 

*  At  Pittsfield  is  a  flourishing  Boarding  School  for  bovs. 

t  Northampton  is  a  beautUul  town  on  Connecticut  River,  and  well 


M:\V  JLJ::ilAAUi\  ^riil^tia. 


4o 


lonjr. 
liazza 
The 
f,  and 
ler  of 

lood. 


IS  a 

Dis- 

te  to 

and 
lable 


'or- 
[ad- 

well 


ley,  o  ;  Anilierst,  4  :  Belchertovvn,  7  ;  Ware,  6  ;  Wesi* 
tern,  8  ;  Brookfiela,  6  ;  Spencer,  7  ;  Leicester,  11 ; 
Worcester,  6  ;  Framingham,  10 ;  Boston,  21 — 134. 

The  Shaker,  Village^  a  few  miles  from  the  Springs, 
is  an  object  of  attention  to  most  visiters.  The  village 
itself  presents  a  scene  of  great  neatness  and  beauty, 
as  it  is  situated  on  a  be:,  itiful  level,  and  laid  out  u^itli 
tlie  utmost  regularity.  The  fields  are  divided  by  right 
lines,  fenced  with  the  most  substantial  materials,  and 
cultivated  with  great  faithfulness  and  skill.  It  is  a 
leading  principle  with  the  society,  to  allow  of  no  pri- 
vate properly  :  all  the  possessions  of  those  who  join 
Ihem  are  thrown  into  the  common  stock,  and  submitted 
at  once  to  their  peculiar  system  of  life  and  govern- 
ment. Celibacy  they  insist  upon  as  indispensable  ; 
and  they  profess  to  banish  the  love  of  wealth  and  am- 
bition, as  well  as  luxury  in  all  its  degrees,  from  their 
territories. 

So  much  has  been  lately  published  on  their  pecu- 
liar doctrines,  that  few  words  need  to  be  said  here  on 
the  subject.  Not  that  their  principles  are  very  per- 
fectly understood  by  the  public ;  on  the  contrary,  few 
indeed  can  be  said  to  comprehend  them,  even  among 
the  society  itself.  It  may,  in  fact,  be  doubted,  whether 
two  persons  could  be  found  who  would  give  the  same 
lepiesentation  of  the  subject. 

The  founder  of  their  sect  was  Ann  Lee,  who  came 
from  England  some  years  ago,  and  established  a  small 
"  family,"  as  they  call  it,  which  has  been  succeeded 
by  various  similar  institutions  in  different  parts  of  the 
country.  They  regard  that  woman  as  nearly  equal  to 
the  Saviour  of  the  world  ;  and  themselves  as  the  only 
persons  who  have  received  that  spiritual  light  which  is 
necessary  to  understand  and  practise  the  duty  of  man, 
that  is,  to  renounce  the  pleasures  of  the  world,  anii, 
by  a  life  of  self-denial,  present  a  living  testimony 
against  error  and  wickedness.    Their  dress  is  plaiir, 

worthy  of  a  day's  delay  at  least.    Mount  Holyoke  commands  the  fiuest 
•i'cw  HI  tills  pirrt  of  the  coimtry,  and  is  t'asily  iJ^siSiblt!.    (iJeie  ^irtlex. 


r 


iii 


<.il\   oi     VI.KA.W 


til 


•    ' 


'I 


and  thfii  WDisliip  consists  principally  oj  a  .slrjii)i;c  aiKl 
(lisngrccal)lc  kiiul  of  dancing,  Avtience  tlicy  have  their 
name,  accompanied  vvitli  a  inonolonous  song-. 

Some  of  their  most  experienced  an<l  nerlect  mem- 
])ers  pretend  to  "  speak  with  tongues,"  heal  diseases 
with  a  touch  of  the  hand,  and  ^lerlbnn  odier  miracles 
like  the  apostles.  They  consider  the  marriage  con- 
tract as  dissolved  on  joining  the  society. 

Thoy  pay  great  attention  to  the  raising  of  garden 
seeds  m  most  of  their  villages,  as  well  as  to  several  o( 
the  neater  branches  of  manufacture,  and  derive  Irom 
both  a  vciy  handsome  income,  by  making  sales  at 
home  and  in  distant  parts  of  the  country.  VViioever 
has  an  opportunity  to  see  this  singular  peopKs  will 
probably  feel  gratified  with  their  m  atnoss,  industry, 
and  economy;  but  will  perhaps  leave  the  place  vvilh 
pity  for  some,  and  suspicirui  of  others. 

Geology.  The  tract  of  country  between  New-T.iC- 
"banon  and  Albany  is  transition.  Bluish  gray  transi- 
tion limestone,  with  veins  of  calcareous  spar,  aboimds 
here  in  strata  on  a  lai-ge  scale,  with  a  considerable 
inclination.  It  is  compact,  with  a  slaty  structure. 
Graywacke  abounds  at  intervals  ;  also  transition  slate, 
and  a  fine  red  sandstone.  At  Greenbush  is  a  bed  n( 
uninflammable  fossil  coal,  or  anthracite. 

ALBANY. 

The  Many  Basin,  The  norlliern  and  western 
canals  unite  at  the  distance  of  8.}  miles  from  All)any, 
and  terminate  here,  at  a  large  basin  in  the  Hudson. 
one  of  the  greatest  works  connecled  with  the  canal. 
It  is  4000  feet  long,  and  has  two  or  three  handsome 
bridges,  one  with  a  draw  to  allow  a  paslsage  for 
sloops,  which  leads  from  the  foot  of  State-street.  The 
pier  which  encloses  the  basin  on  the  river  side,  is  buiif 
of  logs,  and  wide  enough  for  a  spacious  street.  It  i- 
a  place  of  deposite  ibr  vast  quannties  of  lumber. 

Annuallv  there  are  manv  arrivaK-  rin-l  d<^p:tr}iirps  o> 


KOI    i'K  TO   MA(;.\I{A. 


47 


Icsiern 
jl)any, 
idsop. 
;annl. 
I  some 
re   \ov 

It  i^ 


r.MiAl  boats  :it  Albniiy,  with  j>reat  (luantities  ol  flour, 
aii(l  many  iiiiHioM  ivvA  of  plank  anu  boards.  Thou- 
^^andsol  tons  of  niorcbandise,  also,  ^o  nortb  and  west. 

The  size  of" this  bas^in  may  afford  tbc  stranu^er  some 
idt;a  of  tbc  extent  of  the  btisim^ss  created  by  the  canals. 
Ib'ie  the  traveller  j^ets  the  first  view  of  ohjocts  with 
which  ho  is  a'terward  to  become  familiar  ;  and  if  be 
is  travellintj:  this  way  for  the  first  time  in  a  few  yeara, 
hv.  must  look  with  surprise  upon  the  crowd  of  uoats, 
and  the  bustle  of  industiy.  lie  may  look  upon  tbem 
also  with  additional  interest;  for  they  will  be  Iwireaf- 
ler  })resenled  to  bis  view  in  many  varying  forms, 
thoui^b  'lill  preserving:  the  characteristic  aspect  and 
impression,  which  distinguish  the  whole  line  of  inter- 
nal improvements  to  its  termination.  Tolls  on  both 
canaiti  in  lH-29,  about  5J5790,000. 

The  route  to  Scbenectacly,  by  the  canal,  although  so 
much  lonn:er  than  the  stage  road,  and  so  much  ob- 
structed by  frequent  locks,  is  highly  worthy  of  the 
traveller's  attention,  either  in  going  or  in  returning ; 
for  it  wHl  afford  him  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  junc- 
tion of  tlij.  two  canals,  the  Cohoes  Falls  on  the  Mo- 
hawk, the  locks  by  which  the  rise  of  land  is  artificially 
surmounted,  the  aoueducts  which  bear  the  canal  twice 
across  the  river,  the  Wat  lloix  Rapid,  and  the  gap 
throiiffb  which  the  canal  passes;  the  scenery  at  Alex- 
ander's Bridge,  &c. 

JSPiskei^mia^  the  original  settlement  of  the  Shakers,  is 
about  4}  miles  from  Albany. 

ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY  TO  NIAGARA. 

The  boats  start  from  the  first  lock,  which  is  at  the 
north  end  of  Albany  ;  so  that  a  carriage  will  be  neces- 
sary for  the  traveller  and  his  luggage. 

Description  of  a  Canal  Packet  Boat.  The  length  is 
HO  or  70  feet,  a  large  part  of  which  is  devoted  to  the 
dining  room,  where  two  rows  of  tables  are  set.  Af 
nijrht,  mat*rp««es  are  spread  on  the  seats  each  side. 


V 


Tiijwii  ■-'■ym^ — 


!i 


4  a 


llOliTE  Tl)  ^lAGAUA. 


and  in  another  row  above  them  on  cots  suspended  liom 
(he  roof.  The  ladies  are  accommodated  with  births 
in  the  cabin,  which  is  usually  carpeted,  hung  with  cur- 
tains, and  in  other  respects  more  handsomely  fur- 
nished. The  kitchen  and  bar  are  conveniently  situ- 
ated ;  and  the  tables  are  spread  with  an  abundance, 
«nd  often  a  delicacy,  which  may  well  surprise  Ihoso 
not  accustomed  to  tne  cheapness  of  travelling  in  this 
part  of  the  country. 

A  small  library,  a  number  of  newspapers,  &c.  will 
serve  to  make  the  time  pass  agreeably,  even  if  the  tra- 
veller be  a  stranger,  or  the  weather  not  inviting.  In 
many  places,  the  view  from  the  deck  is  highly  inte- 
S'esting ;  but  it  cannot  be  too  often  recommended  to  the 
stranger  to  beware  of  standing  on  deck   when  ap- 

{)roaching  a  bridjaje,  and  never  to  expose  the  head  or 
landn  rtnt  of  a  window. 

RKNSSELAERWYCK, 

A  fine  estate  with  its  respectable  old  mansion  house, 
about  a  mile  north  of  the  centre  of  the  city,  is  worthy 
of  particular  observation,  as  the  seat  of  the  Honour- 
able Stephen  Van  Rensselaer,  who  bears  the  respected 
old  Dutch  title  of  Patroon  of  Albany.  The  estate  is 
of  immense  value,  extending  ten  miles  along  the  river, 
and  double  that  distance  east  and  west;  while  he 
porscfses  besides,  a  fine  tract  on  the  Black  River,  &c. 
It  was  forme?ly  entailed  and  secured  by  law  to  the  oldest 
son  of  the  family  ;  but  on  the  death  ot  the  present  pro- 
prietor it  is  to  be  divided  equally  among  all  the  chil- 
dren. The  character  of  Gen.  V.  R.  is  too  estimabli^ 
and  influential  to  allow  his  name  to  be  passed  over  in 
silence,  even  in  a  work  like  the  present  little  volume. 
He  has  been  a  powerful  patron,  tor  many  years,  of  all 
plans  for  the  public  beneht,and  one  of  the  earliest  and 
most  eflicient  friends  of  the  Erie  Canal,  which  passes 
through  his  grounds,  and  terminates  Avithin  viewof  hi-' 
hou^e. 


'fL 


■.i 


''<th 


;V;  v'.    .'r'K,  .-"ah.: 


%: 


11 


r — ^' 


S?    •?. 


^  ,•..- 


j;7<.|Mi*-^ 


li."      ?^ 


f^iin,- 


■% 


Snoo/ts  JCill :%:       \ 


\, 


'•'■/<, 


^'v*>. 


<^": 


SariUotiii  x'  Sprinas 


il"^- 


Ji  nils  ton*  .^  pun  lis 


B. '1 1 1  s  ton 
Village  •% 


Stilt  \iuitcr 


iFans- 


|C 


Jinictton%] 
a' 


\, 


Arsenal Ijtff,  'Woy 


-•^'^ 


//,..■/,..,' 


t'KlTED  STATES    ARfcliN'AL.. 


49 


U.  States'  Arsenal,  5j  miles,  at  Gibbonsville.  The 
advantages  of  this  situation  will  be  immediately  per- 
ceived :  the  vicinity  to  the  Hudson,  the  road,  and  the 
canal  aflfording  every  convenience  for  the  transporta- 
tion of  arms  and  ammunition.  This  depository  of 
arms,  &c.  is  under  the  charge  of  Major  Talcott. 

The  ground  occupied  by  the  arsenal  extends  from 
the  road  near  the  river,  back  to  the  tow  path  of  the 
canal,  where  are  two  gun  houses,  with  low  projecting 
roofs  to  protect  the  carriages  from  exposure  to  the 
weather.  Strangei*s  may  easily  gain  access  by  mere 
application  at  the  officers'  quarters.  One  floor  is  de- 
voted to  such  arms  as  are  intended  for  the  supply  of 
the  military  posts,  or  have  been  received  for  repairing. 
The  arms  in  the  other  parts  are  disposed  with  more 
taste.  The  muskets  are  partly  packed  in  boxes,  and 
partly  ranged  upright,  with  fixed  bayouets,  in  compact 
order;  and  present  an  appearance  truly  formidable. 
Thousands  of  pistols  are  hung  overhead  ;  those  in  the 
alternate  lines  standing  different  ways ;  and  swords 
with  metallic  scabbards  are  disposed  horizontally  oii 
wire  hooks.  The  walls  bear  several  devices  formed 
of  swords,  pistols,  &.c.  ingeniously  arranged.  This  is 
the  principal  depot  of  arms  and.  equipments  in  the 
ijorthern  states. 

The  passages  and  staircases  are  hung  with  drums, 
&c.  On  the  ground  floor  are  a  few  pieces  of  artillery, 
and  various  sizes  of  shot,  shells,  &c.  &;c. 

In  the  yard  are  two  ranges  of  buildings.  That  on 
the  north  is  devoted  to  workshops  for  the  repair  of 
arms,  manufacturirg  locks,  &c.  about  30  men  being 
usually  employed,  most  of  whom  are  enlisted.  The 
buildings  on  the  south  side  are  occupied  by  smiths  and 
carpenters.  Behind  these  is  a  handsome  flower  and 
fruit  garden  ;  the  kitchen  garden  being  on  the  north 
side  of  the  grounds. 

The  muskets  are  repaired  about  once  in  a  year ; 
which  costs  from  50  cents  to  gl  50  or  $3  each. '  The 
Vnrrels  are  oxydjzed,  to  prevent  rustinar.    The  muv 


.♦() 


uoirri:  I'ti  \iAtJAK.v. 


kets  wcip:ii  a  liulc  more  Ihaii  ten  pounds,  and  the  iKirth 
are  inttMidcd  to  correspond  as  nearly  a>s  can  easily  be 
ilonc. 

In  the  yard  are  a  number  ol'  cannon,  &c.  There 
are  4  medium  12  pounders,  one  24,  and  one  howitzer, 
all  taken  at  Saratoga  ;  4  medium  IxJ  pounders  and  one 
howitzer,  taken  at  Yorktown ;  two  long  antique  pieces 
and  one  S  inch  mortar,  taken  at  Stony  Point ;  two  old 
French  4  pounders  and  14  ^uns,  sent  by  king;  Louis  to 
the  Continental  Congress  m  tlie  Revolution.  These 
are  all  of  brass,  and  most  of  them  higchly  ornamented. 
The  French  guns  presented  by  the  king  bear  each  an 
individual  name  t'orward,  and  the  inscription  "  Vliima 
ratio  irgniri'' — (the  last  ai|!;ument  of  kings.) 

There  are  also  three  or  tour  howitzers  cast  in  New- 
York  and  Philadelf)hia  in  the  Revolution,  some  of  the 
oldest  specimens  ot  such  manufacture  in  this  country. 
They  bear  the  letters  V.  C.  for  United  Colonies. 

TROY, 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  a  very  liandsome 
town,  with  nne  hills  in  the  rear,  the  most  prominent 
of  which  has  received  the  name  of  Mount  Ida,  to  cor- 
respond with  the  classic  appellation  of  the  place. 
There  ii  a  good  horse  ferry,  which  helps  to  render  the; 
town  a  great  thoroughfare  during  the  travelling  season. 
The  Dam  and  Basin  at  Troy  form  a  great  and  expen- 
sive work,  and  are  of  marked  benefit  to  the  place,  by 
diverting  a  part  of  the  business  of  the  canal.  The 
court-house,  and  other  public  buildings  are  worthy  of 
notice. 

The  road  to  New-Lebanon  is  a  very  good  and  very 
pleasant  one.    The  distance  is  27  miles. 

Sandy  Lake  is  10  miles  on  this  road,  Nassau  8  more, 
village  of  New-Lebanon  12  further,  and  Lebanon 
Springs  2  more. 

On  Mount  Ida,  the  hill  east  of  Troy,  is  a  fine  suc- 
t*;feSion  of  vaterfallg,  or  two  streamy,  ike  Poestenkill 


4  IT\    01'    TllUV. 


61 


.tiid  the  Wyrianlskill.  One  of  them  Ijas  cut  its  way 
ill  some  places  to  a  great  depth,  and  takes  three  or 
lour  pornendicular  leaps  at  short  intervals  of  only  a 
few  yards.  The  road  to  New-Lebanon  Springs  leads 
near  the  place,  which  is  worthy  of  attention  for  its 
picturesque  character.  There  are  several  mills  of 
different  descriptions^  and  a  cotton  manufactory  on  the 
same  stream,  where  Nos.  34  and  36  are  made.  The 
factory  is  large  enough  for  2,300  spindles  and  70 
power  looms. 

Mount  Ida. — The  view  from  the  top  of  this  hill,  and 
still  more  from  the  mountain  behind  it,  is  very  exten- 
sive and  beautiful.  It  embraces  the  Hudson  for  a 
considerable  distance  up  and  down ;  with  the  courses 
of  the  two  canals,  beiore  and  after  their  junction ; 
together  with  many  of  the  objects  alrfjady  spoken  of; 
particularly  the  range  of  the  distant  Catskill  Mountains 
which  present  a  boundary  to  the  scene  in  the  south-wes:'.. 

A  canal  route  has  been  surveyed  by  the  slate  ct 
Massachusetts,  from  Boston  to  Troy.  From  Trov  to 
Connecticut  river,  78  miles  of  canal  would  cost  three 
millions  of  dollars,  with  a  tunnel  of  four  miles  through 
Iloosac  mountain,  lockage  611  feet. 

At  the  Fan  Rensselaer  School,  the  students  deliver 
lectures,  by  turns,  on  the  branches  of  study  to  wbicli 
they  are  devoted  ;  and  during  the  pleasant  seasons  of 
the  year,  they  allow  much  time  to  making  personal 
observations  on  farming,  the  botany  of  the  neighbour- 
hood, &;c.  Boarding  costs  about  $1,50  per  week,  and 
no  charge  is  made  for  room  rent,  use  of  the  library, 
apparatus,  &lc. 

nensselaer  School  at  Troy. — A  very  liberal  and  gene- 
rous step  has  been  adopted,  with  regard  to  the  ad- 
mission of  pupils  into  this  institution.  Any  person 
above  18  years  of  age  is  gratuitously  offered  educa- 
tion, who  shall  present  a  certificate  from  the  first  judge 
of  any  county  in  the  state,  attesting  his  scientific  ac- 
quisitions to  be  equal  to  those  required  by  law,  to  be 
tatia^ht  in  any  incorporated  academy  there ;  and  thaf 


.1 


ItOTlTE    TO    MA(;AKA. 


he  has  a  ^ood  moral  character,  and  will  return  to  his 
county  and  exert  himself  to  introduce  and  extend  the 
experimental  plan  of  education. 

Miss  Willard's  Academy,  for  young  ladies,  is  also  a 
very  respectable  establishment. 

The  Flour  MilU  south  of  the  town,  can  grind  2000 
bushels  of  wheat  in  a  day,  and  1500  with  ease. 

The  Nail  and  Spike  Manufactory  makes,  of  red- 
hot  iron,  every  thing  from  a  shingle  nail  to  a  ship 
spike. 

HYDROSTATIC  LOCK. 

In  order  to  prevent  fraud  in  the  collection  of  toll, 
three  of  these  works  have  been  constructed  : — one  at 
Troy,  one  at  Utica,  and  one  at  Syracuse.  They  are 
commonly  called  weigh-locks.  The  following  account 
of  them  may  be  interesting  to  those  who  have  never 
seen  them. 

The  chamber  is  on  the  same  level  with  the  canal, 
and  is  filled  from  it  by  a  paddle  gate.  On  a  level 
below  the  chamber,  is  a  receptacle,  intb  which  the 
chamber  can  be  emptied ;  and  from  this  the  water 
can  be  discharged. 

"  Suppose  the  column  of  water  in  the  lock  in  which 
the  boat  is  afloat,  is  85  feet  long,  15  wide,  and  4  feet 
deep ;  then  by  multiplying  the  length,  width,  and 
depth  of  this  column  into  each  other,  its  contents  in 
cubic  feet  are  obtained.  The  water  is  then  drawn 
off  into  the  receptacle,  and  the  boat  settles  down  upon 
timbers,  so  arranged  as  to  yield  to  its  shape,  by  which 
it  is  supported,  without  being  strained  or  injured. 
The  quantity  of  water  drawn  from  the  lock  is  then 
ascertained  by  a  graduated  rod.  Suppose  the'  water 
in  the  receptacle  measures  30  feet  long,  25  feet  wide, 
and  5  feet  deep  :  these,  multiplied  into  each  other  as 
before,  will  produce  3750  cubic  (eet  It  appears  from 
the  above,  that  the  water,  with  the  loaded  boat  floating 
in  it,  contained  6100  cubic  feet,  and  that  the  same  water- 


THE   JTNCTIO^. 


drawn  oli'  and  measured  separately,  contained  3750 
rubic  feet,  which,  subtraQted  from  the  preceding,  will 
^ive  1350  cubic  feet  of  water  dispFacea  by  the  loaded 
boat.  And  as  a  cubic  foot  of  fresh  water  weighs  1000 
ounces  avoirdupois,  or  62i  pounds,  it  follows  that 
1350X62i=84375,  the  weight  of  the  loaded  boat. 
This  is  to  be  reduced  to  tons,  and  the  weight  of  the 
empty  boat  previously  ascertained  in  the  same  manner, 
is  to  be  deducted,  and  the  remainder  will  be  tho 
Aveight  of  the  cargo.  After  an  empty  boat  has  been 
once  weighed,  she  is  numbered,  and  her  weight  h 
registered  at  the  several  hydrostatic  locks." 

Some  of  the  ordinary  Ibcks  on  the  route  were 
altered  on  a  new  plan  in  1827,  by  which  they  arc 
emptied  in  half  the  former  time. 

The  opportunity  for  looking  around  on  every  side 
is  much  better  enjoyed  in  a  canal  boat  than  in  a  stage 
cx)ach,  or  even  a  private  carriage,  although  it  some- 
times happens,  that  the  road  commands  more  extensive 
views  than  the  canal.  The  immediate  scene  from  thn 
latter,  however,  will  usually  be  found  the  most  agree- 
ablie ;  for  a  sttiooth  sheet  of  water,  with  level  and'  often 
grassy  banks,  is  a  more  pleasant  sight  than  a  loi*)g 
stretch  of  muddy  or  sanoy  highway.  Besides,  it  is 
always  free  from  the  inconvenience  of  dust,  which 
frequently  renders  the  roads  in  this  part  of  the  cotititry 
extremely  uncoftifortable. 

7he  Double  Locks. — The  two  locks  whrch  occur  just 
])elovv  the  junction  of  the  northern  and  western  canals, 
were  doubled  in  1825,  to  furnish  room  for  th^  l>oat,s, 
which  pass  here  in  great  numbers.  They  are  built 
of  marble  from  Westchester  county. 

The  Junction,  8J  miles  from  Albany,  is  where  the 
Northern  and  Western  canals  meet  and  unite.  To 
this  spot  the  canal  has  been  of  a  greater  width  than 
either  of  the  branches  will  be  found  to  be.  The 
Northern  canal  runs  to  Whitehall,  Lake  Champlain, 
with  locks,  a  distance  of  62^  miles,  passing  through 
^V-^tprford,  Halfmoon.StiUwater.near  Remis's  Heifirht«. 


TiT 


oi 


KOL'A'E    TO    MAIJAUA. 


(14  miles  from  Waterford,)  with  the  battle  grounds  ot' 
(Jeneral  Bur^oyne,  Fort  Hardy,  where  he  siuTeiidcred, 
Fort  Miller,  Fort  Edward,  and  Fort  Anne. 

The  Erie  or  Western,  canal,  reaches  to  Buffalo,  on 
Lake  Erie,  a  distance  of  362  miles.  It  has  83  locks, 
which  raise  and  lower  the  water  608  feet  in  all.  The 
principal  points  where  the  most  labour  and  expense 
were  required,  are  the  following : 

The  Basin  at  Albany, — the  Dam  and  Basin  at  Troy, 
— the  Locks  at  the  Cohoes  Falls, — the  two  Aqueducts 
on  which  the  canal  twice  crosses  the  Mohawk, — the 
long-  Stone  Wall  and  Locks  at  Little  Falls,  together 
with  the  beautiful  Aqueduct  for  the  Feeder  at  that 
place, — the  long  stretch  through  the  Onondaga  Swamp, 
— the  great  Embankment  at  Victor,  where  for  two 
miles  the  boats  pass  72  feet  above  the  level, — the 
Aqueduct  over  the  Genesee  at  Rochester, — the  five 
double  combined  Locks  at  Lockport,  and  the  long 
Pier  at  Black  Rock. 

The  principal  natural  objects  near  it  are  : 

The  Cohoes  Falls,— Little  Falls,— the  Falls  of  Tren- 
ton, 14  miles  north-east  of  Utica, — the  Lakes  of  Onei- 
da, Salina,  Onondasra,  Cayuga,  Seneca,  and  Canan- 
daigua — the  three  Falls  of  the  Genesee  River,  at 
Rochester  and  Carthage, — Niagara, — and  the  Lakes 
of  Ontario  and  Erie. 

The  amount  of  toll  received  on  the  Erie,  Cham- 
plain,  Oswego,  and  Cayuga  canal?,  in  1829,  was 
$816,302. 

At  the  9  Locks f  the  road  to  Waterford  leaves  the 
Erie  canal  on  the  west,  and  the  Champlain  canal  on 
the  east ;  and  crosses  the  Mohawk  River  below  the 
Cohoes  Falls.  There  is  a  very  fine  view  of  t})e  locks, 
the  river,  and  the  falls,  from  the  road  which  runs  along; 
the  south  bank  of  the  river,  140  feet  high,  between  it 
and  the  canal. 

(The  book  will  now  follow  the  great  route,  west- 
ward, to  Niagara.  For  the  road  to  the  Springs*  spe 
JVnterford.) 


iMON  coLua.i:. 


iji) 


uruis  ot 
idcred, 

talo,  oil 
I  locks, 
.     The 

t  Troy, 
jeducts 
k,— the 
Dgether 
at  that 
)wamp, 
'or  two 
il,— the 
he  five 
le  long^ 


f  Tren- 
f  Onei- 
Canan- 
ver,  at 
Lakes 

Cham- 

9,  was 

/es  the 
anal  on 
ow  the 
locks, 
s  along: 
veen  it 

,  west- 


COHOES  FALLS. 

Tliis  is  the  great  Cataract  of  the  Monawk  River. 
The  height  of  the  fall  is  62  feet.  The  banks  are 
mere  walls  of  stratified  rock,  rough,  and  sometimes 
hollowed  out  beneath,  rising  about  140  feet  above  the 
river  for  a  great  distance  below  the  falls.  A  beautiful 
new  bridge,  on  Towne's  plan,  was  built  across  the  river 
in  1828,  near  the  dam,  some  distance  below  the  old 
bridice.  At  first  view  the  cataract  appears  almost  as 
regular  as  a  mill-dam ;  but  on  a  nearer  approach,  the 
lodge  of  rocks  over  which  the  water  is  precipitated  is 
found  extremely  irregular  and  broken.  Many  fine 
fi^h  arc  caught  at  the  bottom. 

The  L(mcr  AquedvcU  2ry  miles.  On  account  of  the 
difficulty  of  cutting  the  canal  along  this  side  of  the 
river,  above  this  place,  it  was  found  easier  to  carry  it 
over,  as  there  is  a  natural  channel  on  the  other  side, 
which  will  be  seen  with  surprise.  This  aqueduct  is 
1188  feet  long,  and  rests  on  26  stone  piers  and  abut- 
ments. 

Wat  Hoix  Gap,  2^  miles — the  channel  above  men- 
tioned. 

Upper  Jiqueduct,  ^\  miles — 748  feet  lono^,  and  rests 
on  16  piers.     The  scene  at  Jllexanders  Bridge  is  fine. 

Schenectady  {Givens''  Inn)  is  one  of  the  oldest  set- 
tlements in  the  state,  having  been  occupied  as  a  little 
Irontier  fortress  before  the  year  1665,  when  it  was 
attacked  by  a  party  of  French  and  Indians  from 
Canada,  and  burnt,  and  many  of  the  inhabitants  mur- 
dered. This  party  was  designed  against  the  Five 
Nations ;  but  being  much  worn  down  with  travelling 
in  the  winter,  they  fell  on  Schenectady. 

Union  College  is  conspicuously  situated  a  little  out 
<if  town.  Two  large  stone  buildings  have  been  erected 
several  years,  but  the  original  plan,  wliich  was  quite 
extensive,  has  never  beiai  con'.pletccl.  Dr.  Nolt  is 
])resident  of  this  highly  respectable   in>;tilution.     li' 


i"i 


0(> 


ilOU-TE    TO  iMAO'AiiA. 


I'^ttOM  SCHENECTADV  '10  1  TIUA. 

By  the  Canal  79^  miles.* 
Rotterdam  Flats  . .  /. .    3  miles. 

Flint  Hill S 

Fort  Hunter 10 

North  of  the  conal,  and  on  the  bank  of  the  Moliawk, 
is  the  place  where  this  little  fort  formerly  stood.  Like 
most  of  the  places  of  defence  built  in  this  state  during 
the  Revolution  and  the  French  wars,  «t  was  small  and 
fitted  only  for  resisting  such  little  bands  of  enemies  as 
used  to  approach  the  settlements  on  this  frontier. 

Near  this  place  is  the  site  of  an  old  fort  of  the  Mo- 
hawk Indians ;  and  there  is  still  to  be  seen  a  chapel 
built  by  Qjueen  Anne,  near  the  beginning  of  the  fast 
century,  for  the  use  of  that  nation.  It  '  ^cnown  \)y 
the  name  of  Queen  Anne^s  ChapeL 

SCHOHARIE  CREEK.     1  mile. 


sni 


Here  is  a  collection  of  several  very  interesting  workt, 
formed  for  the  convenient  passage  of  boats  across  a 
broad  and  rapid  stream.  A  guard  lock  preserves  the 
water  in  the  canal  from  rising  or  falling,  and  the  cur- 
rent of  the  creek  is  set  back  hy  a  dam  a  little  below, 
nearly  to  the  same  level.  The  dam  is  constructed  in 
a  manner  best  calculated  to  resist  the  pressure  of  the 
current  in  floods,  and  when  increased  by  the  ice.  It 
has  a  broad  foundation  and  a  narrow  top ;  and  it  k 
built  so  as  to  present  an  an^le  against  the  middle  of 
the  current.  An  ingenious  invention  has  been  devised 
for  drawing  boats  across  the  creek  by  machinery.  A 
wheel  turned  by  a  horse  moves  a  rope,  which  is 
stretched  double  across,  and  is  carried  round  a  wheel 
on  the  other  side ;  a  line  attached  to  this  draws  the 
boats,  they  being  kept  in  their  course  by  another  line, 

*■  Fv  th'irorrt?,  SI  ini!(!3.    ^ce  *'i?t;riY?--->"  at  tfi<)  eml  of  tht  voliimp- 


A. 


Mohawk, 
)d.  Like 
ite  during 
small  and 
nemies  as 
itier. 

r  the  Ma- 

a  chapel 

f  the  fast 

nown  b}" 


ig  workfc, 
across  a 
erves  the 
the  cur- 
e  below, 
ucted  in 
re  of  the 
ice.  It 
and  it  k 
liddle  of 
I  devised 
leiy.  A 
vhich  is 
a  wheel 
raws  the 
her  hne, 


IIP1PI 


^i^ 


^■■■PWPliiiP 


\. 


i:- 


t 


AMHOiS^  S    ttOdL. 


•  }  i 


II 


r. 


whicil  slides  upon  a  long  ro{^e  stretched  acioss  the 
creek  on  the  other  side  oi  the  boats. 

CAUGHNAWAGA,  4i  miles. 

'.'■'.»'. 

The  village  of  Johnstown  is  situated  at  the  distance 
of  four  miles  north  of  the  canal.* 

Antkony^s  JVosCf  7  J  miles.  This  is  a  high  and  pro- 
iiiinent  hill,  rising  abruptly  on  the  southern  bank  of 
the  river.  On  the  top  is  a  remarkable  cavern,  which 
extends  downwards  to  a  great  depth,  with  beveral 

*  Tribe's  Hill  is  n  commanding  elevation  within  tlie  limits  of  Jolins- 
lown.  It  w"TB  formerly  the  niace  of  the  council  fire  of  the  Mohawk 
Indiana ;  and  the  GermanH  iinve  corrupted  its  name  to  "Tripe's  Hill," 
by  which  it  is  commonly  known. 

At  Johnstown,  on  the  road,  are  two  fine  houses,  built  of  stone,  staudint; 
rit  Uie  distance  of  a  mile  from  each  other.  They  were  erected  by  Sir 
William  Johnson  and  his  family,  as  this  tract  of  country  was  the  place 
of  his  resideni'H,  mid  i'ornied  a  part  of  iiiM  vast  and  valuable  estaii;. 
There  was  origiiiully  a  third  house,  similarly  built,  and  at  the  interval  of 
another  mile :  but  this  was  consumed  by  iire.  Col.  Guy  Johnson  and  Col. 
John  Johnson  (sons  of  Sir  William)  inhabited  two  of  them  until  the 
revolutionary  war;  when,  having  attached  themselves  to  the  Britisii 
interest,  they  removed  into  Canada,  and  their  estates  were  confiscated. 
Colonel  John  afterward  came  down  with  a  party  of  French  and  In- 
dians, attacked  the  town,  and  made  prisoners  many  of  his  old  (ricnds 
and  neighbours. 

Sir  William  Johnsi  n,  who  makes  so  conspicuous  a  figure  in  thr. 
history  of  tlie  state  aboLt  the  time  of  the  French  war,  was  born  in  Ire- 
land, in  1714,  and  in  1734  came  to  America,  at  the  solicitation  of  his 
uncle,  Sir  Peter  Warren,  who  had  acfjuirfid  a  large  estate  here  thro>ij};h 
his  wife.  Sir  William  became  well  acquainted  with  the  Indian  languai;c 
and  manners,  and  acquired  a  greater  intlucnce  over  them  than  any  oth«:^^r 
white  man  ever  ijossessed.  He  rose  from  the  station  of  a  private  soldier 
to  the  rankof  a  general,  and  commanded  at  lake  George  in  1755,alihougI.>, 
as  vili  hereafter  be  seen,  the  title  which  he  there  received  was  really 
inrriied  by  Gen.  Lyman.  July  25, 1759,  he  took  Fort  Niagara,  and  in 
r69  went  to  join  Gen.  Amherst  at  Oswego,  and  assisted  in  the  capture 
of  Montreal.  He  died  and  was  buried  at  his  seat,  July  7, 1774,  at  the 
age  of  60,  very  rich,  in  consequence  of  the  increased  value  of  his  exten- 
sive estate  afier  the  French  war.  This  building  was  erected  in  1773, 
and  stands  nearly  a  mile  westward  from  the  village.  It  is  called  the 
Hall. 

The  Battle  of  Johnstown.  On  the  25th  of  October,  1781,  Col.  Wlllet, 
with  400  white  men  and  GO  of  the  Oneida  tribe,  fought  GOO  of  the  Eng- 
lish and  Indians,  on  the  grounds  belonging  to  the  mansion.  The  loss  of 
the  "nemy  was  considerable,  and  they  suffered  so  much  during  tlieiJ" 
retreat,  that  on  their  arrival  in  Canada  their  numbers  were  iedoce<t 


'!:•, 


oil 


JiUijii;    To    x\lAGA«A, 


£iparttnents  o»  considerable  size.  This  hill  is  repre- 
sented in  one  of  Uie  plates ;  but  the  view  is  taken  from 
a  spot  west  of  it.  The  place  is  quite  picturesque,  and 
presents  a  remarkable  assemblage  of  interesting  ob- 
jects :  the  Mohawk  river,  winding  through  a  narrow 
valley,  with  the  turnpike  on  the  north  side,  the  canal 
and  a  country  road  on  tho  couth ;  the  whole  enclosed 
by  rough  and  elevated  hills. 

There  is  every  appearance  of  a  rent  in  the  hills 
having  been  made  by  a  strong  current  of  water;  and 
geologists  consider  them  as  having  originally  been  a 
barrier  to  a  great  lake  which  was  thus  gradually 
drained. 

Canajoharie  Creek  and  Village^  5  miles.  Hence  a 
stage  coach  two  or  three  times  a  week  to  Cherry 
Valley. 

Fort  Plain,  4  miles.  Here  is  a  small  village,  be- 
longing to  a  town  inhabited  by  the  descendants  of 
Germans.  It  occupies  the  site  of  old  Fort  Plain.  The 
German  language,  much  corrupted,  is  spoken  here  by 
every  body. 

This  little  fort  was  surprised  by  Captain  Butler  in 
the  revolutionary  war,  on  his  return  from  burning 
Cherry  Valley;  and  here  he  committed  similar 
atrocities. 


Mil 


PAM    ON    THE    RIVER,  AND    FEEDER   FOR 

THE  CANAL,  4  miles. 

The  Mouth  of  East  Canada  Creek,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  Mohawk.  Near  that  place,  Capt.  nutler 
met  a  violent  death,  soon  after  leaving  Fort  Plain,  on 
his  way  back  to  Oneida  Lake  and  the  Oswego.  He 
had  crossed  the  river  somewhere  below,  and  while 
lingering  a  h'ttle  in  the  rear  of  his  troops,  was  over- 
taken near  the  mouth  of  the  creek,  by  two  Oneida 
Indians,  in  friendship  with  the  Americans.  Si^eing 
them  preparing  o  kill  hiin,  he  begged  for  his  life ; 
but  they  only  re^jlied.  ".S'^y'?t?/ F*^/?/^// '"  ''^^'^  f^ioji- 
bawked  hiiTj  nn  tb^  i=po* 


LITTLE    FALLS. 


bi) 


life; 


Mohawk  Castle,  2  miles.  This  was  the  principal 
defensive  position  of  that  famous  nation  of  Indians 
now  entirely  scattered  and  lost.  As  the  nearest  to  the 
Dutch  settlements,  and  New-England,  the^  were  long 
regarded  with  peculiar  solicitude,  and  frequently  with 
great  dread.  They  were  one  of  the  five  nations,  of 
which  we  shall  speak  more  particularly,  at  Oneida, 
and  were  long  faithful  and  serviceable  friends  to  the 
white  men.  Here  is  an  old  chapel  erected  for 
their  use. 

Palatine  Bridge.  A  little  off  the  canal,  at  Palatine^ 
is  a  school  for  the  education  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb, 
established  under  the  patronage  of  the  state,  on  the 
plan  of  that  in  Hartford,  Connecticut.  It  is  the  cen- 
tral school  for  the  state  of  New-  York.    (See  Hartford.) 

LITTLE  FALLS. 

The  country  presents  a  varied  surface,  and  increases 
in  interest  on  approaching  Little  Falls,  which  is  the 
most  romantic  scene  on  the  course  of  the  Erie  canaL 
On  reaching  a  little  open  meadow  surrounded  by  hills, 
where  the  views  open  upon  cultivated  fields  and  a  few 
farm  houses,  the  Mohawk  will  be  found  flowing  below 
on  the  right ;  while  on  the  opposite  side,  at  tne  foot 
of  the  hills  and  on  the  verge  of  the  forest  that  covers 
them,  the  great  road  is  seen,  after  having  been  lost  to 
the  view  for  a  long  time.  Here  is  situated  Gen.  Her- 
kimer's house,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  at  the 
foot  of  Fall  Hill.  The  road,  the  river,  and  the  can?l 
are  collected  again  at  the  head  of  the  valley ;  •  •« 
there  is  but  one  passage,  and  that  so  narrow  as  hardly 
to  afford  room  for  them  all.  This  is  a  deep  cut  through 
a  chain  of  limestone  and  granite  hills,  doubtless  torn 
away  in  some  former  asre  by  the  force  of  water.  If 
the  chain  were  again  filled  up  it  would  throw  the 
water  back,  and  form  an  immense  lake,  such  as  is  sup- 
posed to  have  once  existed  west  of  this  place,  and 
which,  by  overflowing  its  bounds,  in  process  of  time: 


DO 


ROUTE    TO    KIAGAKA. 


1 


wore  Away  the  limestone  strata,  and  cut  deep  into  the 
hard  granrte,  until  a  mere  river  succeeded,  and  the 
fine  alluvial  plains  above,  called  the  German  Flats, 
were  left  dry. 

The  stranger  should,  by  no  means,  neglect  the  view 
of  this  place.  Khe  reaches  it  early  or  late  in  a  pleasant 
day,  particularly  near  the  rising  of  the  sun,  the  beauty 
of  the  scene  will  be  redoubled.  On  the  north  bank 
of  the  river,  the  road  climbs  along  the  side  of  the 
rocks,  where  there  is  barely  room  for  its  passage.  A 
great  part  of  the  way,  it  is  almost  overhung  by  rocks 
and  trees  on  one  side,  while  on  the  other  is  a  preci- 
pice of  granite,  cut  down  by  the  force  of  water  in 
perpendicular  shafts,  originally  formed  by  drills,  made 
by  loose  stones  whirled  round  in  the  current.  The 
same  appearance  extends  to  the  islands  and  rocks  in 
the  channels,  many  of  which  appear  quite  inaccessible, 
with  their  ragged  and  perpendicular  sides  overhung 
by  dark  evergreens,  whose  shade  seems  the  more 
intense  from  its  contrast  with  the  white  rapids  and  cas- 
cades below.  In  some  places  the  road  is  protected 
by  immense  natural  battlements,  formed  of  massy 
rock,  which  have  been  loosened  from  above,  and 
planted  themselves  on  the  brow  of  the  precipice.  The 
scenery  has  been  compared  with  that  of  the  river 
Dove  in  Derbyshire,  and  the  Killin  in  Perthshire, 
England. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  river  runs  the  canal,  sup- 
ported by  a  wall  20  or  30  feet  high,  constructed  at 
great  expense,  and  rising  from  the  very  channel  of  the 
Mohawk.  The  vvildness  of  the  surrounding  scenery 
contrasts  no  less  with  the  artificial  beauty  of  this 
noble  work,  than  the  violence  and  tumult  of  the  Mo- 
hawk with  the  placid  and  silent  surface  of  the  canal, 
or  the  calmness  and  security  with  which  the  boats 
glide  along  the  side  of  the  mountains. 

The  traveller  may  step  on  shore  at  the  two  locks, 
and  walk  along  the  tow  paths,  as  there  are  five  more 
J'irk''   a   mile  above.    If  Im?  wishrs   to  stop  a  few 


U. 


THE   AatrKDVCT. 


61 


hours  to  view  the  scene  more  at  leisure,  the  village  of 
Little  Falls  is  only  half  a  mile  from  that  place,  where 
Is  a  lai^e  trd  comfortable  inn,  with  canal  boats  and 
stage  coaches  passing  very  frequently.  If  he  intends 
to  stay  but  a  few  hours,  it  is  recommended  to  him  to 
have  his  baggage  left  at  a  little  tavern  on  the  canal, 
where  it  can  be  readily  transferred  to  another  boat. 

The  Aqueduct  across  the  Mohawk  is  near  the  five 
locks ;  and  is  considered  the  most  finished  specimen 
of  mason  work  on  the  line  of  the  canal,  though  mtich 
inferior  in  size  to  that  over  the  Genesee  at  Rochester. 
It  conducts  a  supply  of  water  from  the  old  canal, 
formerly  built  for  boats  to  pass  the  falls,  and  commu- 
nicates also  with  a  large  basin  on  the  north  bank.  It 
passes  the  narrow  channel  of  the  river  with  three 
beautiful  arches,  which  are  covered  with  a  calcareinis 
cement  roughened  by  little  stalactites,  formed  by  the 
Water  that  continually  drips  through  the  stones.  The 
span  of  the  middle  arch  is  60  feet.  Stones,  twigs  of 
trees,  &c,  on  which  the  water  falls,  are  soon  tound 
mcrusted  with  a  similar  substance.  Tlie  channel  here 
shows  part  of  the  old  limestone  strata,  with  the  more 
durable  granite  rocks  laid  bare  l^low. 

This  range  of  mountains,  called  in  this  part  of  the 
state  the  Catsber^,  is  a  spur  of  the  Alleghany,  and 
extends  along  the  west  side  of  Lake  Champlam,  till 
it  disappears  in  the  northern  levels  in  Canada. 

This  neighbourhood  is  interesting  to  the  geologist, 
abounding  m  organic  remains,  &c.  but  the  ordinary 
traveller  will  be  more  pleased  with  specimens  of  the 
beautiful  little  rock-crystals  (quartz),  which  are 
found  on  the  hilL  about  a  mile  distant  from  the  village. 
They  are  perfect  in  their  form,  terminating  with  two 
pyramids ;  and  are  so  loosely  imbedded  in  a  sandy 
rock,  as  to  be  washed  out  by  the  rains  in  considerable 
numbers. 

There  are  mills  of  various  kinds  at  this  place. 

On  leaving  Little  Falls,  the  canal  enters  upon  a 
l>^ittiful  meadow  of  fine  soil,  and  a  smooth  surface  ; 

F5 


^t 


liOMTE   TO    JVIAGAHA. 


through  which  the  Mohawk  winds  in  a  plaeid  and 
gentle  current,  enclosed  on  each  side  by  sloping  hills. 
At  the  distance  of  three  miles,  we  are  in  the  level  region 
called  the  German  Fiats,  famous  for  its  fertility.  The 
inhabitants,  who  are  almost  all  of  German  extraction, 
still  preserve  their  language,  and  many  of  the  customs 
of  their  ancestors,  and  tnough  often  laborious  and 
provident  farmers,  are  little  inclined  to  those  improve- 
ments in  learning  or  the  useful  arts,  which  distinguish 
so  large  a  portion  of  the  state.  The  scenes  presented 
along  this  part  of  the  canal  bear  a  resemblance  to 
some  of  the  meadows  of  the  Connecticut,  altliough  of 
inferior  size,  and  of  more  recent  settlement. 

Six  miles  from  Little  Falls  is  Lock  JVo,  48.  An  old 
church  is  seen  on  the  south  side  ;  and  also,  old  Fort 
Herkimer. 

Herkimer.  This  village  is  situated  about  a  mile  and 
a  half  beyond,  and  a  mile  north  of  the  canal,  on  a 
semicircular  plain ;  the  circumference  of  which  is 
traced  by  the  Mohawk,  and  the  diameter  by  the 
great  road,  it  derives  its  name  from  Gen.  Herkimer, 
of  whom  there  will  be  more  to  say  at  Rome.  Fort 
Herkimer,  or  the  *'  Stone  House,"  is  near  the  canal,  a 
mile  and  a  half  from  Herkimer. 

The  traveller  may  take  a  carriage  here,  to  visit 
Trenton  Falls,  and  join  the  canal  again  at  Utica ;  or 
go  first  from  Utica. 

The  Long  Level  begins  at  Lock  No.  53,  nearly  six 
miles  west  of  Herkimer.  It  is  the  longest  reach  on 
the  canal,  without  any  interruption  by  locks,  extending 
to  Salina,  a  distance  of  69 J  miles.  Alter  passing, 
Frankfort,  we  reach 


UTICA. 

This  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  important  of  the 
western  towns.    Here  the  river,  the  great  road,  and 
the  canal,  all  meet  again.    There  are  also  roads  con 
centrating  here,  from  various  directions,  and  stage 


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1-oachca  anivii)^  and  departing  in  great  numbeij^. 
There  are  two  Targe  stage  houses  ;  one  of  which,  at 
the  canal  bridge,  will  be  found  nnost  convenient,  if  not 
loo  crowded. 

There  are  several  handsome  churches  in  Utica,  and 
one  or  more  for  almost  every  denomination.  The 
streets  are  broad,  straight,  and  commodious ;  and  the 
principal  ones  well  built  with  rows  of  brick  stores,  or 
elegant  dwelling-houses.  The'  bridge  over  the  Mo- 
hawk is  at  the  end  of  the  street.  There  were,  in 
1825,  5040  inhabitants :  a  few  less  than  in  Rochester. 

Weigh  Lock.    (See  p.  52.) 

Hamilton  College  is  situated  near  the  village  of 
Clinton,  nine  miles  from  Utica.  There  were  fourteen 
graduated  here  in  1828. 

TRENTON  FALLS. 


c 


This  most  interesting  vicinity  is  well  worthy  th 
attention  of  every  person  of  taste,  bein^  justly  consi- 
dered one  of  the  finest  natural  scenes  m  this  part  of 
the  country.  An  excellent  inn  is  kept  near  the  falls  by 
Mr.  Sherman,  who  has  a  large  collection  of  rare  and 
curious  petrilactions,  collected  among  the  rocks,  worthy 
of  examination. 

From  this  house  you  descend  a  long  staircase  down 
the  steep  bank  of  tne  West  Canada  Creek,  which  has 
cut  a  frightful  chasm  through  a  rocky  range,  in  some 
places  150  feet  deep,  and  is  seen  giiiding  swiftly  by 
through  a  declining  channel  below.  The  chasm  con- 
tinues for  four  miles,  and  presents  the  greatest  variety' 
of  cascades  and  rapids,  boiling  pools  and  eddies.  The 
passage  or  chasm  between  the  rocks  is  everywhere 
very  narrow,  and  in  some  places  is  barely  sufficient 
to  permit  the  stream  to  pass  ;  while  the  rocks  rise 
perpendicularly  on  each  side,  or  sometimes  even 
project  a  considerable  distance  overhead,  so  that  it 
lias  been  often  necessary  to  form  an  artificial  path  by 
means  of  gunpowder.    These  places  appear  dawge^- 


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ons,  but  only  require  a  little  caulioii  and  presence  ol' 
mind  to  ensure  the  snfety  of  the  visiter,  as  strong  iron 
chains  are  fixed  into  the  rocks  to  offer  him  security. 
There  are  four  principal  cataracts,  between  the  stair- 
case by  which  you  first  descend  and  the  usual  limit 
of  an  excursion,  which  is  about  a  mile  and  a  quartet 
up  the  stream.  The  fii-st  of  these  you  discover  soon 
after  the  first  turning:,  and  is  about  40  lieet  hie^ ;  with 
the  greatest  fall  towards  the  west.  The  top  of  the 
rock  on  the  riffht  side  is  150  feet  high  by  line  mea- 
surement. The  second  is  a  reisjular  fall,  much  like  a 
mill  dam,  about  eight  feet  high  ;  the  third,  a  remark- 
ably striking  and  beautiful  one  ;  and  the  fourth,  rather 
a  succession  of  cascades,  but  presents  many  most 
agreeable  varieties. 

Near  the  foot  of  this  a  melancholy  accident  occurred 
in  1827.  A  lady  from  New-York  was  drowned  by 
slipping  from  a  low  bank  ;  unseen,  although  her  friends 
and  parents  were  near  her.  The  ear  is  stunned  by  the 
falls,  the  rocks  are  slippery,  and  great  caution  is  re- 
commended. 

A  singular  species  of  tree  is  found  in  this  neighbour- 
hood, called  the  white  cedar,  with  drooping  branches, 
which  often  grow  to  such  a  length  as  to  descend  far 
below  the  root,  towards  the  water.  The  rocks  here 
are  all  a  dark  limestone,  of  a  very  slaty  structure, 
and  contain  astonishing  quantities  of  petrified  marine 
shells  and  other  animals  of  antediluvian  date,  such  as 
dilobites,  trilobftes,  &c.  &.c. 

The  are  several  other  cataracts  besides  those  already 
mentioned,  both  above  and  below ;  and  a  stranger 
might  spend  some  time  here  very  agreeably  in  observ- 
ing them  at  leisure,  and  in  catching  the  fine  trout  with 
which  the  creek  abounds.  The  house  is  commbdious, 
and  has  the  reputation  of  furnishing  one  of  the  best 
tables  m  this  part  of  the  state. 


SrtGE    OJ-    LOUT   STA.NWIX. 


(wi 


FROM  UTICA  TO  SYHACLSE. 

By  the  Canal  C3|  miles. 

VVhitf.^tovvn, 4  miles. 

Oriskany  village, .     .  7 

Rome  on  the  right, C 

Feeder  from  Wood  Creek,  and  the  old  U. 

S.  Arsenal, 1 

Oneida  Creek, 14 

Lock  54,  end  of  the  long  level,  ...      29 

Syracuse, — 4 

These  places  are  noticed  in  succession. 
Whitestown  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  villages  in 
this  part  of  the  state,  as  well  as  the  oldest  settlement. 
All  this  tract  of  country  was  a  perfect  wilderness  in 
1785,  when  Mr.  White,  from  Middletown,  in  Connec- 
ticut, first  took  up  his  abode  here  and  lifted  an  axe 
against  the  forest.  The  traveller  may  keep  this  in 
mind  as  he  pursues  his  journey,  and  the  progress  of 
civilization  will  appear  more  astonishing. 

SIEGE  OF  FORT  STANWIX. 

On  the  road  from  Whitestown  to  f  >me,  is  the  spot 
wnere  Gen.  Herkimer  remained  undei  *  tree  after  re- 
ceiving his  mortal  wound.  In  1777,  Gen.  Burgoyne 
sent  between  1500  and  1800  men,  many  of  them  sa- 
vages, under  Baron  St.  Leger,  to  go  from  Montreal,  by 
Lake  Ontario,  to  attack  Fort  Stanwix;  and  then  to 
go  down  the  Mohawk  to  Albany.  Early  in  August, 
they  arrived  at  Fort  Stanwix.  Gen.  Herkimer,  com- 
mander of  the  militia  of  Tryon  county,  was  sent  against 
them  with  800  men.  His  men  insisted  on  going  on,  to 
meet  a  detachment  under  Sir  J.  Johnson,  sent  out  by 
St.  Leger;  but  at  the  first  ht  rthey  fled.  A  few  re- 
mained and  fought,  and  Gen.  H.  was  killed.  Con- 
gress voted  a  monument  tc  his  memory,  but  it  has 
never  been  erected.  The  Americans  lost  160  killed. 
nnd  240  wounded  and  prisonnr?.     Two  miles  beloi\ 


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Hiotographic 

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Corporation 


23  WG>T  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14S80 

(716)  872-4503 


PPVMi 


66 


KOUTSi:   TO   NIAGARA. 


Fort  Stanwix  the  canal  commenc€S  between  the  Mo- 
hawk and  Wood  Creek. 

Fort  Stanwix  stood  60  or  80  rods  N.  E.  of  the  centre 
of  the  village  of  Rome,  with  a  deep  ditch,  three  rows 
of  palisadoes,  and  a  block -house  in  the  middle. 

Rome.  Near  this  village^  when  the  canal  was  opened 
throupfh  a  Tid|s:e  of  diluvial  formation,  clams  were 
found  alfve,  which  were  eaten  by  the  workmen.  (See 
Am*  Journ.  of  Sci.  &c.  Jan.  1829.) 

ONEIDA  CAiSTLE. 

This  is  a  village  on  the  confines  of  a  tract  of  re- 
served land  belonging:  to  the  Indians  of  the  Oneida 
nation.  The  principal  residences  of  most  of  the  In- 
dians in  this  part  of  the  country  were  formerly  forti- 
fied In  a  manner  corresponding  with  their  ideas  of 
warfare,  and  hence  the  name  of  castle  attached  to 
this  village,  as  well  as  to  several  others  which  we  have 
occasion  to  speak  o(  further  on. 

The  Oneiaas  were  one  of  the  original  Five  Nations, 
which  form  so  conspicuous  a  figure  in  the  history  of 
this  state,  and  whose  power  and  influence,  at  the  time 
of  the  settlement  of  New- York  and  New-England, 
were  extended  far  and  wide. 

A  mile  east  o(  Oneida  Creek,  and  by  the  road  side, 
is  the  ancient 

COUNCIL  GROVE, 

Where  all  the  public  business  of  the  nation  has  been, 
for  many  years,  transacted.  It  is  formed  of  27  fine  but- 
ternut-trees, which,  in  the  sf^mmer  season,  from  a  little 
distance,  presents  a  beautiful  and  regular  mass  of  ver- 
dure. Towards  the  south-east  from  this  place  is  seen 
the  "Episcopal  church,  a  building  recently  erected  for 
the  use  of  the  Indians.  Great  numbers  of  the  white  per- 
sons from  the  neighbourhood  also  attend  service  at  diis 
house,  as  well  as  in  the  other  church,  which  is  supplied 
^vit^^  preachers  by  the  Foreign  Missionary  Society. 


iUHiJlltiiiOUxN   ANU    KEW-STOCKBUIDGE.        (i7 


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In  the  scattering:  village  about  half  a  mile  beyond, 
there  are  several  decent  and  comfortable  frame  houses 
inhabited  by  Indian  families,  whose  habits  have  risen 
to  a  higher  grade  than  most  of  the  nation,  although 
many  of  them  are  gradually  improving,  by  betaking 
themselves  to  agriculture. 

A  considerable  portion  of  the  tribe  have  recently 
removed  to  Green  Bay. 

Schools  among  the  Indians  are  encouraged  by  the 
general  government  of  the  U.  S.  In  the  whole  coun- 
try there  are  42  schools  in  different  tribes,  with  129t 
pupils,  and  i:2i  teachers.  The  annual  cost  to  the  U. 
States  is  g7000. 

The  scholars  are  taught  the  rudiments  of  learning 
under  a  master  and  mistress,  and  also  the  useful  arts. 

The  Oneida  nation  were  idolaters  until  within  a 
short  time ;  but  a  few  years  ago  the  nation  renounced 
their  ancient  superstitious  rites,  and  declared  in  favour 
of  Christianity. 

BROTHERTOWN  AND  NEW-STOCKBRIDGE 

Are  two  villages,  a  few  miles  south-easterly  from 
here,  situated  on  part  of  the  old  Oneida  reservation, 
but  granted  to  some  of  their  scattered  Indian  bnetbren 
from  Pennsylvania  and  New-England.  New-Stock- 
bridge,  until  recently,  was  the  residence  of  the  Stock- 
brid^f^  tribe,  who  came  by  an  invitation  from  the 
Oneidas  some  years  ago.  They  had  Christian  minis- 
ters among  them  long  before  they  removed  from 
Stockbridge  irx.  Massachusetts. 

Most  of  them  now  reside  at  Green  Ba^,  on  land 
given  them  by  the  Menominies,  a  nation  with  whom 
they  are  on  the  most  friendly  terms ;  and  are  adopting 
to  a  good  extent,  the  arts  of  civilized  life.  They  have 
invited  the  Oneidas  to  joki  them. 

McmUuR  Centre.  60  yards  from  the  canal  and  two 
miles  east  of  Manlius  Centre,  is  a  curious  spring,  from 
^vhich  fsulphurpttpd  bydix)gen  rises,  and  is  innaramnbJ**- 


ti{5 


KOLTi:   TO    jMAUAUA. 


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SYRACUSE. 

This  place  is  no  less  remarkable  for  the  rapiditjr  oi 
its  s^/towthf  than  for  the  peculiar  advantages  oi  its  situ- 
atbn.  The  p^reat  Salt  Spring  is  only  a  mile  and  a  half 
distant,  and  the  water  is  Drought  in  hollow  logs  to  the 
salt  vats,  in  great  abundance,  and  at  a  very  trifling 
expense.  T^se  vats  will  be  seen  at  (he  western  side 
of  the  village,  and  are  well  worthy  of  a  day's  delay, 
as  well  as  the  works  at  Salina^  Liverpool  (6  miles 
distant),  and  Geddesburgh.  In  all  these  four  villages, 
about  500  acres,  in  1827,  were  supposed  to  be  covered 
with  vats,  for  solar  evaporation.  The  vats  are  large 
pans  mad^  of  wood,  three  or  four  inches  deep,  raised 
a  little  from  the  ground,  and  placed  in  long  ranges, 
with  a  very  gradual  descent,  to  permit  the  salt  water 
to  flow  slowly  along  from  one  end  to  the  other.  Each 
range  of  vats  is  supplied  by  a  hollow  log  placed  per- 
pendicularly in  the  ground ;  and  the  constant  action  of 
the  sun  evaporates  the  water,  and  leaves  the  salt  to  be 
deposited  m  small  cubical  crystals  at  the  bottom. 
Tne  water  is  at  first  a  little  thick,  but  gradually  deposites 
its  impurities;  and  the  lower  vats  always  show  a 
beautiful  white  crust,  like  the  purest  snow. 

Light  wooden  roofs  are  kept  ready  to  slide  over  the 
vats  when  the  weather  requires  it ;  and  the  salt  is  taken 
out  once  in  two  or  three  days,  to  be  deposited  in  the 
storehouses,  which  are  built  at  regular  distances. 

Thence  it  is  easily  removed  to  the  c^nal,  and  then 
is  ready  for  transportation  to  any  part  of  the  country. 

In  1823,  there  were  about  100  houses,  and  the  number 
was  doubled  in  1824.  In  1825,  the  inhabitants 
amounted  to  1000  ;  and  those  of  the  township  to  3025. 
There  were  then  three  churches  in  the  village  ;  and 
736,632  bushels  of  salt  were  manufactured  here  in  that 
year.  In  1827,  the  salt  vats  covered  one  hundred  and 
^ixty  acres,  and  cost  the  companies  engaged,  $120,000 


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Undei"  such  encouraging  prospects,  the  village  ha«i 
acquired  its  sudden  growth  and  importance  ;  large 
blocks  of  stores  have  oeen  built  on  both  sides  of  the 
canal,  two  or  three  large  inns  and  stage  houses  are 
ready  for  the  accoiimodation  of  travellers,  and  a  good 
deal  of  trade  is  carried  on  in  the  place.  Improvements 
are  still  going  on  rapidly,  and  it  is  difficult  to  foretell 
where  they  will  stop.  Almost  3500  bushels  of  salt 
are  made  here  in  a  year. 

The  Oswego  Canal,  was  opened  in  July,  182S, 
leaves  the  Erie  canal  at  this  place,  and  affords  a  direct 
communication  with  Lake  Ontario.  A  lake  ship  canal 
might  be  made  at  a  small  additional  expense.  The 
bank  is  used  as  a  tow  path  a  consideraole  distance. 
The  shores  rise  gradually  to  a  height  of  100  feet,  with 
few  inhabitants  and  little  cultivation.  The  locks  and 
other  works  are  of  the  best  description,  and  veiy  ad- 
mirable workmanship.  A  barrel  of  flour  '''ill  go  for 
six  cents  less,  by  the  lake  and  this  canal,  from  Ro< 
Chester  to  Salina.  It  is  38  miles  long.  Half  that  dis- 
tance it  is  constructed  alon^  the  bank  of  the  river  of 
the  same  name,  connected  with  it  by  locks,  and  the  other 
half  is  slack-water  navigation  in  the  river.  It  has  22 
bridges,  7  culverts,  1  aqueduct,  2  waste  weirs,  8  dams 
across  the  river,  13  locks  of  stone  and  1  of  stone  and 
timber,  with  an  aggregate  lift  of  123  feet. 

By  a  recent  survey,  a  canal  from  Syracuse  through 
Homer  to  Binghampion,  on  the  Susquehannah,  has  been 
pronounced  practicable.  Syracuse  Weigk-Lock.  (Sec 
p.  52.) 

SALINA 

h  situated  a  mile  and  a  half  north  from  this  place^ 

and  should  not  be  passed  by  unnoticed.    A  small  but 

convenient  little   packet  boat  is  continually  plying 

between  the  two  places,  drawn  by  a  single  horse,  and 

passes  by  many  salt  manufactories,  built  on  both  sides 

of  the  cannl.    The  mode  of  evaporation  generally 

o 


70 


HOlViu    TO    AlAUAKA. 


adopted  here,  is  that  of  boiling ;  and  a  brief  descriptiuit 
will  convey  a  clear  idea  of  the  process.  Each  buildinsi: 
contains  sixteen  or  eighteen  large  iron  kettles,  of  120 
gallons  each,  which  are  placed  in  two  rows,  forming 
what  is  called  **  a  block.  They  stand  about  three 
feet  higher  than  the  floor ;  and  under  them  is  a  large 
furnace,  which  is  heated  with  pine  wood,  and  requires 
constant  attention  to  keep  the  water  always  boiling. 
The  water  is  drawn  from  a  lai^e  reservoir  at  one  end 
of  the  building,  after  having  been  allowed  to  stand 
awhile  and  deposite  the  impurities  it  has  brought  along 
with  it.  A  hollow  log,  with  a  pump  at  one  end,  and 
furnished  with  openings  against  the  Kettles,  is  the  only 
machine  used  in  filling  them.  The  first  deposite  made 
by  the  water  after  the  boiling  commences,  is  a  com- 
pound of  tseveral  substances,  and  is  thrown  away, 
under  the  name  of  "  Bittern ;"  but  the  pure  white  salt* 
which  soon  after  makes  its  appearance,  is  carefully 
removed,  and  placed  in  a  store-room  just  at  hand, 
ready  for  barrelling  and  the  market. 

Each  manufactory  yields  about  40  bushels  a  day, 
and  the  different  buildings  cost  about  half  a  million. 

There  are  two  lai^e  manufactories  here,  where  salt 
is  made  in  reservoirs  of  an  immense  size,  and  evapo- 
rated by  hot  air  passing  through  them  in  large  pipes. 
The  reservoir  of  the  principal  one  contains  no  less  tnan 
40,000  gallons.  The  pipe  is  supplied  with  heat  by  a 
furnace  below,  and  the  salt  is  formed  in  lai^e  loose 
masses,  resembling  half-thawed  ice.  The  crystali- 
zation  also  is  different  from  that  produced  by  the  other 
modes,  at  least  in  secondary  forms. 

The  village  of  Salina  is  of  considerable  size  and  a 
flourishing  appearance,  considering  the  shortness  of 
the  time  since  it  began  to  be  built,  and  the  serious 
obstacles  it  has  had  to  encounter  in  the  unhealthiness 
of  its  situation.  In  1825,  it  contained  1000  inhabitants  ; 
the  village  of  Geddes,  520 ;  and  Liverpool,  375.  The 
extensive  marshes  which  bound  it  on  the  west  are  ex* 
tremely  unwholesome  during:  the  "^varraer  seasons  of 


"  *'Si'!f*U' 


SALINA   SALT   WUKKS. 


71 


the  year,  and  the  whole  neighbourhood  is  more  or  less 
infected  with  the  fever  and  ague :  that  terrible  scourge, 
which  has  retarded  so  much  the  settlement  of  many 

Earts  of  this  western  country.  Since  the  marshes  have 
een  partially  cleared  and  drained,  the  disease  has 
been  greatly  diminished ;  and  it  is  hoped  that  time 
and  industry  will  reduce  its  ravages  still  further,  if  not 
entirely  eradicate  it. 

The  branch  canal  which  runs  through  this  village, 
is  applied  to  other  valuable  purposes  besides  those  of 
transportation.  A  sluice  which  draws  off  a  portion  of 
the  water  towards  the  marshes  and  the  lake,  is  made 
to  turn  several  mill-wheels  in  its  course.  A  forcing 
pump  raises  the  water  of  the  salt  spring  destined  to 
supply  the  manufactories  here  and  at  Syracuse  ;  and  a 
large  open  frame  building  shows  the  spot  from  which 
all  the  Kettles  and  the  pans  of  both  these  places  derive 
their  supplies  :  that  for  the  latter  being  elevated  to  the 
height  of  70  feet,  and  the  pump  being  able  to  raise 
120,000  gallons  in  24  hours. 

The  Salt  luring  itself  will  be  viewed  as  a  curiosity, 
but  in  its  present  state  presents  no  very  remarkable  ap- 
pearance, as  there  is  little  commotion  visible  on  the 
surface,  and  the  source  would  seem  by  no  means  equal  to 
the  great  draughts  which  are  continually  made  upon  it. 

The  Lake  will  be  seen  at  the  distance  of  about  a 
mile.  It  is  six  miles  long  and  two  broad,  and  must 
receive  a  considerable  quantity  of  salt  water  from  the 
draining  of  the  marshes,  as  its  banks  are  covered  with 
saline  plants.  The  valley  is  surrounded  by  limestone 
hills,  with  petrifactions ;  and  gypsum  is  found  in  great 
quantities. 

"  TTie  American  Salt  Formation^''  savs  Dr.  Van  Rens- 
selaer in  his  '  Essay,'  '^  extends  over  tne  continent  from 
the  Alleghanies  to  the  Pacific,  between  31*  and  4.!i° 
N.  lat.  In  this  immense  tract,  rock  salt  has  been 
occasionally  found  ;  but  its  locality  is  more  generally 
pointed  out  by  brine  springs."  The  salt  springs  in 
thi<^  stale  are  in  the  counties  ot  Onondaara,  Caynga, 


r 


7:i 


liOUTJC    TO   KIAtiAKA. 


Seneca,  Ontario,  Niagara,  Genesee,  Tompkirfci, 
Wajne,  and  Oneida  ;  but  this  is  the  most  valuable  on 
various  accounts.  In  1828  there  were  1,160,088  bushels 
inspected:  and  in  1829,  1,291,820  bushels,  showing  an 
increase  of  130,932  bushels. 

Of  this,  745,741  bushels  were  inspected  at  Salina, 
229,317  at  Syracuse,  187,540  at  Liverpool,  and  129,222 
at  Geddes. 

The  number  of  manufactories  was  increased  during 
the  past  year,  notwithstanding  the  reduction  in  the 
price  of  salt ;  and  the  quality  of  the  brine  has  been 
improved  and  the  quantity  increased  by  means  of 
{perforations  into  the  earth,  to  the  depth  of  about  sixty 
I'eet,  so  that  the  assurance  is  given  of  a  supply  to  the 
utmost  that  will  probably  evel-  become  necessary. 

FROM  SYRACUSE  TO  ROCHESTER. 

As  the  traveller  is  supposed  to  go  to  Rochester  by 
the  canal,  the  description  of  places  on  the  Turnpike 
is  omitted  until  we  reach  that  part  of  the  countiy  on 
the  return  from  Buffalo. 

By  tlie  canal,  99  miles.  Weed's  Basin  26  m. — A 
coacD  to  Auburn,  8  miles  for  50  cents.  11  m.  Mon- 
tezuma Salt  Woiks.  Here  begin  the  Cayuga  Marshes. 
The  canal  acioss  the  marshes  was  constructed  at  a  vast 
oxpense.  35  m.  Palmyra.  Coach  to  Canandaigua, 
13  m.  for  75  cents.  The  Great  Embankment  at 
Victor,  72  feet  high,  extending  2  miles. 

Antiquities,  In  the  towns  of  Onondaga^  Camillus, 
and  Pompe]^,  are  the  remains  of  ancient  villages  and 
forts,  of  which  a  description  will  be  found  in  Yates 
and  Moulton's  new  History  of  the  State,  vol.  i.  p.  13. 
In  Pompey  the  form  of  a  triangular  enclosure  is  visible, 
with  the  remains  of  something  like  circular  or  ellip- 
tical forts  at  the  corners,  8  miles  apart,  the  whole 
including  more  than  500  acres.  De  Witt  Clinton, 
late  Governor  of  this  state,  in  his  memoir,  read  in  1817, 
hefoFf  the  Lit.  and  Phil.  Society,  thinks  the  place  was 


m.— -A 
Mon- 
arshes. 
I  a  vast 
laigua, 
ent  at 

millus, 

es  and 

Yates 

p.  13. 

'isible, 

•  ellip- 

whole 

linton, 

11817, 

e  iva^ 


J  i/ '  ■'  0  • 


mpkinfii. 
lable  on 
(bushels 

>   ,."■■';■    \      .»t  •      ■■«•.•-   .,                                    ^ 

wing  an 

■         ■ 

Sah'na, 
129,222 

[  during 
in  the 
as  been 
eans  of       ' 
ut  sixty 
f  to  the 

/ 

"-    ■  J 

♦        . 

iry. 

;^.-..';Vr..'-'^:^.(;,-..\i/i^&    ;..?i: 

R. 

sler  by 
irnpike 
ntry  on 

.n 


"..-f 


^". 


^ 


■  V 


r 


;..^.^.    ^r^. 


.  *■?#!?  v■'^*■';■■.■^''■^"*^^-. 


-*-^ 


^^^=i  •  ..T. 


' ' '    ■'''i'/"''^  "^  ■f'-'f"^-'"' 


■?^,:;j4\:.4*^>:X'/iH 


-:-./i^.i:v 


.-g-^, 


9 


I 


■y:*!/  HP" 


UDUlIEbTLK. 


73 


I>      «: 


^loriiied  oil  tlie  north  line.    See  also  North  American 
Review. 

In  Camillus  is  an  elliptical  fort  on  a  high  hill,  three 
acres  in  extent,  with  a  covered  way,  10  rods  long,  to  a 
spring  on  the  west,  and  a  gate  towards  the  east.  An- 
other is  on  a  less  elevation  half  a  mile  off,  and  half  as 
large.  Sculls,  pottery,  and  bits  of  brick  used  to  be 
picked  up  in  these  places.  (There  is  a  bed  of  Coal 
in  Onondaga.) 

ROCHESTER 

Is  the  largest  and  most  flourishing  place  in  this  part 
of  the  state,  being  indeed  the  fourth  in  the  state  in 
point  of  numbers,  the  township  containing,  in  1827, 
10,818.  It  has  several  good  inns,  one  of  the  best  of 
which  is  the  "  Coffee  House,"  near  the  canal  bridge. 
It  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Genesee  river,  at 
the  upper  falls,  where  it  is  crossed  by  the  canal ;  and 
enjoys  the  finest  advantages  for  water-mills  of  all 
kincU,  from  the  convenient  and  abundant  supply  ob- 
tained from  the  falls.  Sta^e  Coaches  so  hence,  daily, 
to  Buffalo  through  Batavia ;  three  daily  to  Canau- 
daigua  ;  one  daily  to  Niagara  falls  by  Lockport  and 
Lewiston,  &c.  &c. 

Rochester  was  first  surveyed  into  lots  in  the  year 
1811,  the  first  settlement  made  in  1812,  and  it  was  not 
until  the  latter  part  of  the  year  1814,  that  any  consider- 
able addition  was  made  to  the  number  of  inhabitants. 
In  September,  1818,  the  village  contained  1049  inhabit- 
ants ;  in  August,  1820,  1502  ;  in  September,  1822, 
3130,  (which  included  labourers  on  the  public  works  ; 
the  permanent  population  at  that  time  was  estimated 
at  about  2700)  In  1824,  4274 ;  in  1825,  5271 ;  and 
in  1827,  10,818. 

There  are  some  fine  dwellings,  an  arcade,  a  court 
house,  jail,  market,  13  lar^e  flour  mills  of  stone,  which 
can  make  .342,000  barrels  of  flour  annually.    There 

are  52  run  of  stones  in  all.    About  9  million  feet  of 

O  2 


I  4  KOLIK   TO   MAirAKA. 

lumber  are  sawed  hi*re  in  a  year ;  and  5  miliioii'* 
brought  down  the  river.  There  is  a  cotton  factory, 
with  1400  spindles  and  30  power  looms,  and  a  woollen 
factory  ;  three  bridges  over  the  Genesee,  8  canal 
basins,  two  dry  docKs,  &c.  The  Broadway  bridge, 
BOO  feet  long,  is  a  few  yards  above  the  aqueduct. 

There  is  an  eye  and  ear  infirmary,  a  bank,  a  High 
School,  and  6  meeting-houses  for  Episcopalians,  Pres- 
byterians, Methodists,  Friends,  and  Catholics. 

The  water  power  belonging  to  this  village  and  the 
vicinity  is  equal  to  the  power  of  38,400  horses ;  or, 
1 ,920  steam  engines  of  20  horse  power  each.  There- 
fore the  water  power  is  worth  (computing  the  cost  of 
such  engines,  as  in  England,  at  $8,880  each  ;  and  the 
annual  expense  of  working  at  222  dollars  for  each 
horse  power,)  almost  ten  millions  annually.  Only  a 
small  part  of  it  is  yet  used.  The  whole  river  supfjlies 
20,000  cubic  feet  a  minute  ;  and  the  combined  height 
of  the  falls  at  Rochester  and  Carthage  is  about  280 
feet.  A  fall  of  12  J  cubic  feet  of  water  in  a  minute,  20 
feet  is  equal  to  the  power  of  one  horse. 

The  proposed  canal  from  Genesee  river  to  Oleanon 
the  Alleghany,  would  be  about  110  miles  long,  and 
cost,  as  is  estimated,  about  $1,320,000.  It  would  open 
a  valuable  trade  with  the  upper  valley  of  the  Ohio, 
and  much  increase  the  value  of  the  land. 

The  Aqueduct  over  the  Genesee  is  one  of  the  finest 
Avorks  on  the  course  of  the  canal,  and  is  no  less  remark- 
able for  its  usefulness  than  for  its  architectural  beauty 
and  strength.  It  is  borne  across  the  river's  channel, 
on  ten  arches  of  hewn  stone.  The  river  dashes  rapidly 
along  beneath,  while  boats,  with  goods  and  passengers, 
glide  safely  above. 

A  feeder  enters  the  canal  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  where  sluices  are  also  constructed  for  the  supply 
of  the  numerous  manufactories  built  on  the  bank.  All 
that  part  of  the  canal  west  from  Rochester,  is  supplied 
with  water  from  the  Tonawanta  creek.  Other  sluices 
;ire  al^^o  due:  on  the  west  ?ide.  where  ipanv  othpj  niiU« 


mtm 


rAllTlIAGi:. 


i  i> 


the 
or. 


the 
.ply 
AH 
ied 


aro  to  be  seen.  The  streets  oi  the  town  arc  hand- 
.somely  and  ree^ularly  laid  out,  and  several  of  them  arc 
very  well  built  with  store  and  dwelling-houses  of 
brick  and  stone,  and  well  flagged  on  the  side-walks. 

Falls,  There  is  a  fall  in  the  Genesee  of  about  DO 
feet,  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  town,  another 
near  it  ;*  and  a  fine  one  at  Carthage,  which,  with  the 
truly  impressive  scenery  of  tbe  banks,  is  worthy  of 
particular  attention.  To  vary  the  ride,  it  is  recom- 
mended to  the  stranger  to  go  down  on  one  side  of  the 
river,  and  after  viewing  the  cataract,  cross  the  bridge 
a  little  above,  and  return  on  the  other. 

The  Lake  Ontario  Steamboat  touches  at  Port  Ge- 
nesee, at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  on  its  way  to  Niagara 
and  to  Ogdensl)urgh — the  route  to  Montreal. 

Carthage.  The  fall  here  is  very  sudden,  tbougli 
not  in  a  single  precipice.  The  descent  is  70  feet  in  a 
few  yards.  The  cataract  has  evidently  been  retiring 
for  ages,  as  the  deep  gulf  below  the  falls,  with  its  high, 
perpendicularand  ragged  banks,  is  sufficient  testiniony; 
and  the  seclusion  of  the  place,  the  solemn  and  sublime 
effect  of  the  sceneiy,  redoubled  by  the  roaring  of  the 
cataract,  combine  to  render  it  one  of  the  most  impres- 
sive scenes  in  this  part  of  the  country.  The  precipices 
are  walls  of  secondary  rocks,  presenting  their  natural 
stratification,  and  descending  from  the  surrounding 
level,  to  a  depth  of  about  two  hundred  feet.  A  singular 
vein  of  whitish  stone  will  be  observed,  cutting  them 
horizontally,  and  disappearing  at  the  brink  of  the  falls, 
which  it  has  kept  at  their  present  position  :  its  superior 
hardness,  evidently  resisting  the  action  of  the  water 
for  a  much  longer  time  ;  and  probably  rendering  the 
descent  more  perpend 'cular  than  it  would  otherwise  be. 
The  rocks  are  overhung  with  thick  forest  trees,  which, 
in  some  places,  have  been  able  to  find  a  narrow  footing 
along  the  sides. 

One  of  the  boldest  single  fabrics  that  art  has  ever 

*  At  this  fall  tlip  noted  leapor,  Sam  Potcli,  met  his  (ttarti  ru  I^^.    U'^-" 
^!»ituur  fVem  ri  f'fni!!'  jjrnr  tli"  \ov.  wvA  rii"Yer  ro'iy  fisall}, 


7(j 


ROUTJi  TO   :sj:auak.\. 


successfully  attempted  in  this  country,  now  shows  a 
few  of  its  remains  in  this  place.  The  two  great  piles 
of  timber  which  stand  opposite  each  other  on  the 
narrow  level,  where  once  the  river  flowed,  are  the 
abutments  of  a  bridge  thrown  over  a  few  years  ago. 
It  was  400  feet  in  length,  and  250  above  the  water ; 
but  stood  only  a  short  time,  and  then  fell  with  a  tre- 
mendous crash,  by  its  own  weight.  Fortunately,  no 
person  was  crossing  it  at  the  time — a  lady  and  gentle- 
man bad  just  before  passed,  and  safely  reached  the 
other  side. 

On  account  of  the  obstructions  at  the  falls,  navigation 
is  entirely  interrupted  here  ;  and  all  the  communication 
between  the  banks  of  the  Genesee,  as  well  as  the  canal, 
and  Lake  Ontario,  is  through  Carthage.  Merchandise 
is  raised  up  the  bank,  or  lowered  down,  by  means  of 
an  inclinea  plane,  verj  steep,  where  the  descending 
weight  is  made  to  raise  a  lighter  one  by  its  superior 
gravity. 

This  obstacle  will  cause  a  great  deal  of  merchandise 
to  pass  through  the  Oswego  canal. 

ROAD  FROM  ROCHESTER  TO  NIAGARA 
FALLS,  87  miles. 


9  Carthage  Falls 

0 

To  Gaines 

8 

Parma 

9 

Oak  Orchard 

7 

Clarkson* 

7 

Cambria 

11 

Hartland 

14 

Lewiston 

15 

Sandy  Creek 

7 

Niagara  Falls 

7 

The  principal  objects  on  this  road  are,  the  Ridge, 
Lewiston,  on  Niagara  river,  and  the  Tuscarora  Village. 

*  Holley  Village,  25  miles  west  of  Rochester,  is  12  miles  distant  from 
Idle  sulphuric  acid  spring  in  Byron.  Professor  Eaton  mentions  this  as 
the  only  known  instance  of  a  spring  containing  sulphuric  acid  in  the 
world,  with  the  exception  of  one  in  the  ancient  crater  of  Mount  Idienne 
in  Java.  The  editor  ot  the  Journal,  however,  mentions  another,  spoken 
of  by  Humboldt,  the  Riode  Vinagre,  or  Vinegar  river,  flowing  tVom  the 
extinct  volcano  of  Purace,  near  Popayan,  in  the  waters  of  which  flsh 
will  not  live,  and  the  spray  of  wbicn  irritates  and  inflames  the  eyes  of 
travfUeri?.,  .. 


LocKPOiir 


77 


8 

7 

11 

15 


Trom 
is  as 

the 
nne 
)ken 

the 
fish 
sof 


2\iaapara  Village  will  be  seen  if  you  do  not  cross  into 
Canada  at  Lewiston ;  and  Qjueenstown  if  you  do. 
Lockport  should,  by  all  means,  be  visited. 

The  Ridge  is  a  remarkable  elevation,  of  little  height, 
and  for  the  moat  part  veiy  narrow,  extendiii^  a  great 
part  of  the  distance  from  Rochester  to  Lewiston.  It 
is  often  perfectly  level  for  several  miles,  and  affords  an 
admirable  foundation  for  the  road,  which  has,  in  conse- 

auence,  been  laid  along  its  top.  The  manner  in  which 
lis  singular  elevation  could  have  been  made,  has  ex- 
cited the  speculations  of  many  curious  observers  of 
nature,  and  been  explained  in  different  ways.  Some 
have  imagined  that  the  ridge  was,  at  some  long  past 
period,  the  shore  of  Lake  Ontario,  and  was  tlirown  up 
by  its  waves ;  but  it  is  extremely  difficult  to  understand 
bow  the  waves  could  have  managed  to  banicade 
themselves  out  of  a  tract  of  country.  It  therefore 
seems  more  rational  to  adopt  another  theory  :  that  the 
lake  was  formerly  still  more  extensive  than  is  here 
supposed,  and  overflowed  the  land  some  distance 
southward  of  this  place,  when  a  current  might  easily 
have  produced  a  bar  parallel  to  the  shore,  which, 
"vvhen  left  dry,  might  present  the  form  of  the  ridge. 

The  ground  presents  a  slope  on  each  side  of  the 
path,  peculiarly  well  adapted  for  home  lots,  gardens, 
and  orchards ;  and  the  frequency  and  facility  of  trans- 
portation give  the  inhabitants  very  manifest  advantages. 
Some  well-built,  and  even  handsome,  houses  will  be 
observed,  which  are  still  few  indeed,  but  show  that  a 
good  style  has  actually  been  introduced. 

Gasport,  6^  miles  east  of  Lockport,  derives  its  name 
from  the  carburetted  hydrogen  gas  which  rises  in  the 
basin  of  the  canal. 

LOCKPORT. 

This  is  one  of  the  interesting  places  on  the  canal. 
Here  is  the  noblest  display  of  locKs,  two  ranges,  made 
nf  fj.ne  hpwn  stom^.  beimr  const  rncfrd  against  tbp  bron^ 


p 


7  a 


RCH^lj;    TO    MAUAKA. 


of"  tlic  Mountain  Ridge,  where  the  foaming  ot'  the 
waste  water,  the  noise  of  horns,  and  the  bustle  of  occu- 
pation excite  many  lively  feehngs.  Above  the  locks, 
the  Deep  Cut  offers  a  singular  passage  between  high 
walls  of  rocks. 

Lockport  is  one  of  the  most  advantageous  sites  for 
machinery  on  the  canal,  as  all  the  water  passes  down 
the  mountain  ridge,  which  the  canal  requires,  for  an 
^xtent  of  135  miles  ;  Tonawanta  creek  being  the  only 
feeder  from  Buffalo  to  the  Seneca  river.  It  is  brought 
down  by  passing  round  the  double  locks,  and  falls  55 
feet  into  a  large  natural  basin,  where  two  ranges  of 
overshot  wheels  may  be  built,  each  at  least  25  feet  in 
diameter.  A  little  water  is  sufficient  to  turn  wheels 
of  thii  description.  The  rocks  are  blasted  out  to  a 
depth  of  60  feet.  Within  a  few  years,  the  spot  has 
been  changed  from  a  wilderness  to  a  village  of  3,300 
inhabitants.  It  is  65  miles  to  Rochester,  and  27  to 
Buffalo. 

Minerals,  The  rocky  stratum  is  a  carbonate  of 
lime,  containing  oi^anic  remains ;  encrinites,  enchro- 
cites,  &c.  &c.  crystals  of  carb.  lime  ;  rhomboidal,  dog- 
tooth spar,  12  sided ;  fluate  of  lime  ;  beautiful  crystals 
of  sulphate  of  lime;  sulph.  of  strontian;  pyrites; 
sulphuret  of  zinc  ;  sulphuret  of  lead.  Collections  of 
minerals  may  be  purchased  here.  The  Tuscarora 
reservation  is  an  oblong  tract  of  land  reaching  within  a 
mile  of  Lewiston.  They  emigrated  from  North  Caro- 
lina, near  the  beginning  of  the  last  century,  at  an  invi- 
tation from  the  Five  Nations,  and  were  admitted  on 
equal  terms  into  their  confederacy,  which  has  since 
received  the  name  of  the  Six  Nations.  They  have 
had  a  clergyman  settled  among  them  for  many  years, 
and  Christianity  has  been  voluntarily  adopted  by  them. 
Their  village  has  some  handsome  and  well-cultivated 
fg,rms,  and  a  house  built  for  public  worship, 

I 


Mv^vi.vrov. 


if 


HINTS   TO  'J^HE   TRAVELLER  At 
LEWISTON. 

It  will  be  the  intention  of  many  strangers  whoanive 
at  this  place,  to  devote  several  days  to  viewing  the 
Falls  oiNiagara,  the  battle  grounds  in  the  vicinity,  and 
perhaps  in  making  short  excursions  in  different  direc- 
tions. To  those  who  have  leisure,  such  a  course  may 
well  be  recommended  ;  and  it  may  almost  be  a  mattef 
of  indifference  whether  they  first  visit  the  American 
or  the  British  side.  The  public  accommodations  are 
excellent  at  both  places,  and  the  river  may  be  safely 
crossed  at  any  hour  of  the  day,  by  a  ferry,  at  the 
expense  of  about  half  a  dollar,  including  the  transpor- 
tation of  luggage  down  and  up  the  steep  banks.  A 
staircase  is  erected  near  the  falls,  on  the  British  as 
well  as  the  American  side,  to  furnish  a  convenient 
mode  of  descending  to  the  foot  of  the  cataract,  where 
the  charge  is  25  cents  for  each  person.  During  the 
pleasant  seasons  of  the  year,  both  places  are  the  resort 
of  great  throngs  of  visiters.  Stage  coaches  also  pass 
up  and  down  on  both  sides  every  day  at  equal  rates.. 

To  such,  however,  as  have  but  a  short  time  to  spend 
in  this  neighbourhood,  it  may  be  strongly  recommended 
to  proceed  directlj  to  the  British  side.  The  cataract 
on  that  side  is  higher,  broader,  more  unbroken,  and 
generally  ackno^vledged  to  be  the  noblest  part  of  the 
scene.  The  "'"iter  may  indeed  see  it  to  great  advan- 
tage  from  Goat  Island,  on  the  American  side,  but  the 
view  from  Table  Rock  ought  by  no  means  to  be  neg- 
lected.  The  finest  view  from  the  level  of  the  water 
below  is  also  afforded  on  the  west  5ide, 


IP 

1^ 

H 

<y 

n 

: 

1 

i 
■ 

1 

i 

lU> 


r,\.Ll.S    01'     JsJAliAlJA. 


THE   FALLS    OF   mAiiXilX--fro7ritlie  Amerkau 

side. 

Tlie  Hotels  are  large  buildings,  ami  very  well  kept 
by  Mr.  Whitney,  and  commodious. 

The  height  of  the  fall  on  this  side  is  160  feet  per- 
pendicular, but  somewhat  broken  in  several  places  by 
tlie  projecting  rocks.  It  extends  300  yards  to  a  rock 
ivhich  interrupts  it  on  the  brow  of  the  precipice. 
A  narrow  sheet  appears  beyond  it,  and  then  comes 
Goat  Island,  with  a  mural  precipice.  Between  this 
and  the  other  shore  is  the  Grand  Crescent,  for  vhich 
pee  a  few  pages  beyond.  There  is  a  bridge  to  the 
island,  which  commands  many  fine  views  of  the  falls, 
it  rests  on  wooden  piers  sunk  with  stones. 

The  Staircase  conducts  safely  to  the  bottom  of  the 
precipice  ;  and  boats  may  row  up  near  to  the  cataract. 

The  Sorcerer^s  Cave. — A  very  singular  cavern  was 
discovered,  in  1825,  about  half  a  mile  below  the  falls, 
which  is  reached  by  descending  the  old  Indian  ladder, 
a  steep  path-way,  rendered  passable  by  roots,  rocks, 
&c.  rte  cave  is  about  80  yards  below  the  ladder. 
The  way  to  it  is  difficult ;  the  passage  is  barely  large 
enough  to  admit  a  man,  and  in  it  are  found  stalactites, 
and  specimens  of  something  that  seems  like  petrified 
moss  or  wood.  About  20  feet  above  is  a  beautiful 
spring,  issuing  from  a  rock,  in  a  singular  rockjr  posi- 
tion ;  and  there  is  another  cave  near  by,  which  is  also 
worthy  of  a  visit. 

About  two  miles  below  the  falls,  is  a  Mineral  Spring, 
said  to  contain  sulphuric  and  muriatic  acids,  lime,  and 
magnesia. 

There  is  a  ferry  at  Lewiston,  which  is  about  half  a 
mile  across ;  but  the  current  is  strong  on  this  side,  and 
Ihe  eddy  sets  up  with  such  force  on  the  other,  that  a 
boat  moves  more  than  double  that  distance  in  going 
over.    The  passage  is  not  dangcroris,  although  thu 


WAITLE    Wi'   Ul/JiUNbTOWW. 


81 


waler  is  much  agitated  by  counter  currents  and 
changing  whirlpools  ;  for  the  ferrymen  are  taught  by 
their  experience  to  manage  the  boat  with  care^  and 
not  only  to  take  advantage  of  the  currents,  but  to  avoid 
all  the  rough  places,  ripples,  and  whirlpools.  The 
banks  here  have  an  appearance  very  wild  and  striking* 

The  rocks  are  a  dark  red  sandstone,  with  thi» 
strata  of  a  more  clayey  character  and  a  lighter  colour^ 
occurring  every  few  feet. 

Queefistown,  on  the  Canada  side  of  the  river,  is  a 
small  town,  uninteresting  except  so  far  as  regards  its 
natural  situation,  and  some  martial  events  of  which  it 
has  been  the  theatre. 

THE  BATTLE  OF  QUEENSTOWN. 

Duriir«'  the  late  war  between  the  United  States  and 
Great  Britain,  in  1812,  while  Gen.  Van  Rensselaer 
was  stationed  at  Lewiston,  he  formed  the  bold  design 
of  taking  Qjueenstown ;  and  in  spite  of  the  difficulty 
of  ascending  the  steep  banks,  and  the  fortifications 
which  had  been  thrown  up  for  its  defence,  before  day- 
light on  the  morning  of  October  13th,  he  embarked 
his  troops  at  the  ferry,  and  passed  over  the  river  under 
cover  of  a  battery.  As  the  accessible  points  on  the 
coast  were  strictly  watched,  and  defended  by  batteries 
of  some  strength,  the  place  selected  for  the  attack  was 
the  lofty  and  precipitous  bank  just  above.  Two  or 
three  small  batteries  had  been  erected  on  the  brow, 
the  remains  of  which  are  still  visible ;  but  this  did 
not  discourage  the  undertaking.  The  landing  was 
effected,  and  in  spite  of  the  difficulty  of  the  ascent, 
the  heights  were  surmounted,  and  the  Americans  com- 
menced a  brisk  action  on  the  summit.  Gen.  Brock, 
who  was  at  a  distance,  hearing  the  guns,  hastened  to 
the  spot ;  but  under  a  tree  near  the  precipice  was 
killed  by  a  chance  shot.  The  Americans  remained  in 
possession  of  the  heights  a  few  hours^  but  were  ^hen 

obliged  to  recross  the  river. 

H 


f^ 


82 


r\ 


tALLS    iJr   jNlAliAliA. 


TlIU    iMoNUMENT    TO   GENERAL   BkocK 


Was  raised  by  the  British  government  in  the  year 
1824;  and  the  remains  of  Gen.  Brock  and  Col.  M*Do- 
naJd,  his  aid,  have  since  been  deposited  there.  Its 
height  is  126  feet ;  and  the  view  from  the  top  is  very 
fine  and  extensive,  the  base  being  350  feet  above  the 
river.  In  clear  weather,  the  eye  embraces  not  only 
the  river  below,  and  the  towns  ot  Lewiston  and  Queens- 
town,  but  those  of  Newark  and  Fort  Niagara,  at  the 
entrance  of  Lake  Ontario,  York  harbour,  loungstownr 
part  of  the  route  of  the  Welland  canal,  a  vast  level 
tract  of  country  covered  with  a  uniform  forest,  and  the 
horizon,  formed  by  the  distant  lake  itself. 

The  monument  is  built  of  a  coarse  gray  limestone, 
containir^  enchrinites,  &;c.  of  which  the  hill  is  formed, 
and  contains  some  shells  and  other  organic  remains. 
The  old  park  for  artillery,  and  the  marks  of  various 
"works,  will  be  observed  in  different  parts  of  the 
heights. 

Prom  QueenstOL<))7i  to  jXiagara  Falls  is  seven  miles, 
over  a  level,  sandy  road. 

The  country  between  Niagara  and  York,  U.  C,  is 
considered  the  most  beautiful,  most  fertile,  and  best 
cultivated  part  of  the  province.  It  will  therefore  be 
worthy  of  the  traveller's  attention,  as  soon  as  the 
desired  improvements  and  accommodations  shall  have 
been  introduced.  The  scenery  is  alternately  wild  and 
pleasing ;  and  the  rapid  progress  of  population,  the 
arts,  and  business  created  by  the  Welland  canal  and 
its  collateral  works,  which  promise  such  success,  will 
soon  render  this  tract  of  country  a  favourite  part  of 
the  tour  of  the  northern  traveller.  A  free  navigation 
for  the  largest  vessels  used  here,  between  Lake  Erie 
and  Ontario,  must  produce  the  most  important  results. 
Manufactories  are  already  in  operation  in  different 
places;  and  the  inexhaustible  water  power  of  the 
canal  will  multiply  them  to  any  desirable  degree. 
4.0,000  or  50.000lhs.  of  raw  wool  are  now  annually 


1  ALLS    OF    MAtJARA. 


8:5 


t:oiibumed  in  this  region  by  the  manufacturers  of  narrow 
cloth  and  satinetts ;  ancf  most  of  the  paper  used  in 
Upper  Canada  is  made  at  Crook's  Mill,  in  West 
Flamboroueh. 

Ancient  Tumuli.  Near  Sir  P.  Maitland's  (four  miles 
from  Q^eenstown)  is  a  ran^e  of  rising  ground,  which 
overlooks  the  country  and  lake  for  a  great  distance. 
Near  the  top  a  quantity  of  human  bones  were  recently 
discovered  oy  the  blowing  down  of  an  old  tree.  A 
great  number  of  skeletons  were  found  on  digging,  with 
Indian  beads,  pipes,  &c.  and  some  conch-shells,  shaped 
apparently  for  musical  instruments,  placed  under  seve- 
ral of  the  heads.  Other  perforated  shells  were  found, 
such  as  are  said  to  be  known  only  on  the  western  coast 
of  the  continent,  within  the  tropics.  There  were  also 
found  brass  or  copper  utensils,  &c.  and  the  ground 
looks  as  if  it  had  been  defended  with  a  palisade. 

The  Wfiirlpoolf  sometimes  called  the  Devil's  Hole, 
cannot  be  seen  without  leaving  the  road  and  going  to 
the  bank.  The  rocks  are  about  260  feet  above  the 
water ;  they  form  a  deep  basin,  and  the  water  is  ex- 
tremely agitated. 

A  leisurely  walk  the  whole  distance,  near  the  river, 
may  please  the  admirer  of  nature ;  as  the  high  and 
rocky  cliffs  which  form  the  banks  on  both  sides  pre- 
sent a  continued  succession  of  striking  scenes. 

Although  the  surface  of  the  ground  frequently  indi- 
cates the  passage  of  water  in  some  long  past  period* 
the  whole  road  is  much  elevated  above  the  river,  and 
owing  to  this  circumstance  the  traveller  is  disappointed 
at  not  getting  a  sight  of  the  cataract  from  a  distance,  as 
it  remains  concealed  by  the  banks,  until  he  has  ap- 
proached very  near.  It  frequently  happens,  also,  that 
the  roar  of  the  cataract  is  not  perceived  before  reaching 
the  inn ;  for  the  intervening  bank  intercepts  the  sound 
so  much,  that  the  noise  of  the  wheels  is  sometimes 
sufficient  to  drown  it  entirely.  Yet,  strange  as  it  may 
appear,  the  inhabitants  declare,  that  at  the  same  time 
it  may  very  probably  be  heard  on  thp  shore  of  Lake 
Ontario, 


u 


FALLS    OF    MAOAKA. 


THE  FALLS  OF  NIAGARA-/roni  fhe  British  siiU. 

There  are  two  large  Inns  or  Hotels  on  the  Canadian 
side  of  the  river,  both  situated  as  near  the  falls  as 
could  be  desired.  That  kept  by  Mr.  Forsyth  stands 
on  what  ought  strictly  to  be  called  the  upper  bank,  for 
that  elevation  appears  to  have  once  formed  the  river's 
shore.  This  is  the  larger  house ;  the  galleries  and 
windows  in  the  rear  command  a  fine  view  of  the 
cataract)  although  not  an  entire  one,  and  overlook  the 
rapids  and  river  for  several  miles  above.  The  other 
house  is  also  commodious,  and  commands  the  samo 
scene  from  a  different  point  of  view. 

Following  a  footpath  through  the  pasture  behind 
Forsyth's,  the  stranger  soon  finds  himself  on  the  steep 
brow  of  the  second  bank,  and  the  mighty  cataract  of 
Niagara  suddenly  opens  beneath  him.  A  path  leads 
away  to  the  left,  down  the  bank,  to  the  verge  of  the 
cataract:  and  another  to  the  right,  which  offers  a 
drier  walk,  and  presents  a  more  agreeable  and  varied 
scene. 

The  surface  of  the  rocks  is  so  perfectly  flat  near  the 
falls,  and  the  water  descends  so  considerably  over  the 
rapids  iust  before  it  reaches  the  precipice,  that  it  seems 
a  wondfer  that  the  place  where  you  stand  is  not  over- 
flown. Probably  the  water  is  restrained  only  by  the 
direction  of  the  current,  as  a  little  lateral  pressure 
would  be  sufficient  to  flood  the  elevated  level  beside 
it,  where,  there  can  be  no  question,  the  course  of  the 
river  once  lay. 

Table  Rock  is  a  projection  a  few  yards  from  the 
cataract,  which  commands  a  fine  view  of  this  mag- 
nificent scene.  Indeed,  it  is  usually  considered  the 
finest  point  of  view.  The  height  oi  the  fall  on  this 
iside  is  said  to  be  174  feet  perpendicular;  and  this 
height  the  vast  sheet  of  foam  preserves  unbroken, 
quite  round  the  Grand  Crescent,  a  distance,  it  is  esti- 
mated, of  700  y^rds.    Captain  Basil  Hal)  and  Mr., 


lALLS   OF    .NIAGARA. 


86 


Mr., 


Thompson  measured  the  distance  from  Table  Rock  to 
Termination  Hock  in  1827,  and  lound  it  to  be  153  feet. 
Goat  Island  divides  the  cataract,  and  just  beyond  it 
stands  an  isolated  rock.  The  fall  on  the  American 
side  is  neither  so  high,  so  wide,  nor  so  unbroken ;  yet, 
if  compared  with  any  thing  else  but  the  Crescent, 
would  be  regarded  with  emotions  of  unequalled 
sublimity.  The  breadth  is  900  feet,  the  height  160, 
and  about  two-thirds  the  distance  to  the  bottom  the 
sheet  iz  broken  by  projecting  rocks.  A  bridge  built 
from  the  American  siae  connects  Iris  or  Goat  Island 
and  the  main  land,  though  invisible  from  this  spot ;  and 
the  inn  on  the  same  side,  in  Niagara,  is  seen  a  little 
way  from  the  river.  The  Biddle  Staircase  was  con- 
structed from  Iris  Island  to  the  base  of  the  precioice 
below,  in  1829,  at  the  expense  of  Nicholas  Biadle 
Esq.  of  Philadelphia,  to  aflford  a  new  point  of  view  to 
visiters,  which  is  greatly  admired.  The  construction 
of  this  staircase  is  said  to  have  opened  one  of  the 
finest  fishing  places  in  this  part  of  the  Union.  The 
water  there  is  the  resort  of  numerous  fish  which  come 
up  from  Lake  Ontario  and  are  stopped  b}r  the  falls. 
The  island  is  185  feet  above  the  gulf;  the  first  40  feet 
of  the  descent  is  by  stone  steps,  the  next  88  by  a 
spiral  wooden  staircase,  and  the  remaining  80  feet  by 
stone  steps,  in  three  directions. 

It  may  be  recommended  to  the  traveller  to  visit  this 
place  as  o.'  .^n  as  he  can,  and  to  view  it  from  every 
neighbouring  point ;  as  every  change  of  light  exhibits 
it  under  a  diflferent  and  interesting  aspect.  The  rain- 
bows are  to  be  seen,  from  this  side,  only  in  the  after- 
noon; but  at  that  time  the  clouds  of  mist,  which  are 
continually  rising  from  the  gulf  below,  often  present 
them  in  the  utmost  beauty.         ?,.  • 

Dr.  Dwight  gives  the  following  estimates,  in  his 
travels,  of  the  quantity  of  water  which  passes  the 
cataract  of  Niagara.  The  river  at  the  ferry  is  7^  fur- 
longs wide,  and  on  an  average  25  feet  deep.  The 
current  probably  runs  six  miles  an  hour ;  but  supposinj; 


>p^F"i^»r"w^w»f»i^»^i'P«^p«^fmf^WPt»f^pr- 


u 


VAU^    Utb'   Z^'IAGAUA. 


K-: 


it  to  bo  onlj  5  miles,  the  quantity  that  passes  the  i'ali.H 
in  an  hour,  is  more  than  85  millions  of  tons  avoirdupois ; 
if  we  suppose  it  to  be  6,  it  will  be  more  than  IQQ 
millions ;  and  in  a  day  would  be  2400  millions  of  tons. 
The  noise,  it  is  said,  is  sometimes  heard  at  York,  50 
miles. 
A  carriage  road  has  been  lately  made  to  the  ferry. 


.  V. 


ff  / 


.  The  Rapids  *  ^ 


f^' 


iu  ^ . 


J-y     '■- 


be^in  about  half  a  mile  above  the  cataract;  and, 
although  the  breadth  of  the  river  might  at  first  make 
them  appear  of  little  importance,  a  nearer  inspection 
will  convince  the  stranger  of  their  actual  size,  and  the 
terrific  danger  of  the  passage.  The  inhabitants  of 
the  neighbourhood  regard  it  as  certain  death  to  get 
onc^  ipvolved  in  them ;  and  that  not  merely  because 
all  escape  from  the  cataract  would  be  hopeless,  but 
because  the  violent  force  of  the  water  among  the  rocks 
in  the  channel,  would  instantly  dash  the  bones  of  a  man 
in  pieces.  Instances  are  on  record  of  persons  being 
carried  down  by  the  stream  ;  but  no  one  is  known  to 
have  ever  survived.  Indeed,  it  is  very  rare  that  the 
bodies  are  found ;  as  th^  depth  of  the  gulf  below  the 
cataract,  and  the  tumultuous  agitation  of  the  eddies, 
whirlpools,  and  counter  currents,  render  it  difficult  for 
any  thine  once  sunk  to  rise  a&rain ;  white  the  general 
course  of  the  water  is  so  rapid,  that  it  is  soon  hurried 
far  down  the  stream.  The  large  loffs  which  are 
broui^ht  down  in  great  numbers  during  the  spring,  bear 
sufficient  testimony  to  these  remarks.  Wild  ducks, 
geese.  Sac.  are  frequently  precipitated  over  the  cataract, 
and  jBcenerally  reappear  either  dead  or  with  their  lees 
or  wings  broken.  Some  say  that  water  fowl  kvoid  the 
place  when  able  to  escape,  but  that  the  ice  on  ike 
shores  of  the  river  above  often  prevents  them  from 
obtaining  food,  and  that  they  are  carried  down  from 
mere  inability  to  fly ;  whije  others  assert  that  they  are 
ilomet}flgie.s  seen  volpntari^  riding  amon^  the  ra|Mds; 


Mte^tMMUMMMMJMUk 


I  r 


5s  the  lalJ.H 
oirdupois  ; 

than  lOQ 
ns  of  tons. 

York,  60 

he  (eny. 


let;  and, 
rst  make 
ispection 
»and  the 
itants  of 
h  to  get 
because 
^«S8,  but 
be  rocks 
>raman 
«  being 
lown  to 
hat  the 
low  the 
eddies, 
cult  for 
reneral 
lurried 
"h   are 

gr»  bear 
ducks, 
taract, 
*  Ws 
>id  the 
>n  ^e 
from 
ifron* 
jyare 
Jfids, 


I^IA  (^AHA,  FliOM    r.KlI.O  W  . 


1. 


liAl'IlW    Ol'    rsl.VliAKA. 


jv. 


and  diicv  descending  hall  way  down  ihc  cataract, 
lakinj?  wing,  and  returning  to  repeat  their  dangerous 
amusement.  In  1828,  a  smatl  boat  passed  in  safety 
among  the  islands  below  the  bridge  on  the  United 
State?  side;  but  in  October  of  that  year,  two  men 
were  lost  in  a  boat  which  was  carried  down  by  the 
ice. 

The  most  sublime  scene  is  presented  to  the  observer 
when  he  views  the  cataract  from  below  ;  and  there  he 
may  have  an  opportunity  of  goiog  under  the  cataract. 
This  scene  is  represented  in  the  jplate^  To  render 
the  dc  cent  practicable,  a  spiral  staircase  has  been 
formed  a  little  way  from  Table  Rock,  supported  by  a 
tall  mast;  and  the  stranger  descends  wi^thout  fear, 
because  his  view  is  confined.  On  reaching  the  bottom, 
a  rough  path  among  the  rocks  winds  along  at  the  foot 
of  the  precipice,  although  the  heaps  of  loose  stones 
which  have  fallen  down,  keep  it  at  a  considerables 
height  above  the  water.  A  large  rock  lies  on  the 
very  brink  of  the  river,  about  15  feet  long  and  8  feet 
thick,  which  you  may  climb  up  by  means  of  a  ladder, 
and  enjoy  the  best  central  view  of  the  falls  any  where 
to  be  found.  This  rock  was  formerly  a  part  of  the 
projection  above,  and  fell,  about  seven  years  ago,  with 
a  tremendous  roar.  It  had  been  observed  by  Mr. 
Forsyth  to  be  in  a  very  psecarious  situation,  the  day 
before,  and  he  had  warrjed  the  strangers  at  his  house 
not  to  venture  near  it.  A  lady  and  gentleman,  however, 
had  been  so  bold  as  to  take  their  stand  upon  it  near 
evening,  to  view  the  cataract ;  and  in  the  night  they 
heard  tne  noise  of  its  fall,  which  shook  the  house  like 
an  earthquake.  A  large  piece  of  rock,  near  the  centre 
of  the  great  horseshoe  of  Niagara  Falls,  broke  off  in 
the  summer  of  1 829,  and  fell  into  the  gulf  with  a  crash 
that  was  heaxu  s^everal  miles  o§. 

In  proceeding  nearer  to  the  sheet  of  falling  water, 
the  path  leads  far  under  the  excavated  bank,  which  in 
one  place  forms  a  roof  that  overhangs  about  40  feet. 
The  vaf t  rohimn  of  watpr  continually  pouripG:  over  thv 


if 


sa 


FALLS   OP   IVL/IUAUA. 


precipice,  {)roduces  violent  whirls  in  the  air ;  and  tljc 
spray  is  driven  out  with  such  force,  that  no  one  can 
approach  to  the  ed^e  of  the  cataract,  or  even  stand  a 
few  moments  near  it,  without  being  drenched  to  the 
skin.  It  is  also  very  difficult  to  breathe  there ;  so  that 
persons  with  weak  lungs  would  act  prudently  to  con- 
tent themselves  with  a  distant  view,  and  by  no  means 
to  attempt  to  go  under  the  cataract.  Those  who  are 
desirous  of  exploring  this  tremendous  cavern,  should 
attend  very  carefully  to  their  steps,  and  not  allow 
themselves  to  be  agitated  by  the  sight  or  the  sound  of 
the  cataract,  or  to  be  blinded  by  the  strong  driving 
showers  in  which  they  will  be  continually  involved ; 
as  a  few  steps  would  plunge  them  into  tb'i  tenible 
abyss  which  receives  the  falling  river. 

In  the  summer  of  1827,  a  schooner,  called  the  Mi- 
chigan, which  was  found  to  be  unfit  for  the  navigation 
of  Lake  Erie,  being  of  too  great  a  depth  of  waler, 
was  towed  by  a  steamboat  to  the  end  of  Grand  Island, 
and  then  by  a  row  boat  under  the  coLimand  of  Capt. 
Rough,  to  the  margin  of  the  rapids,  where  she  was 
abandoned  to  her  Tate.  Thousands  of  persons  had 
assembled  to  witness  the  descent.  A  number  of  wild 
animals  had  been  inhumanly  placed  on  her  deck, 
confined,  to  pass  the  cataract  with  her.  She  passed 
the  first  fall  of  the  rapids  in  safety  ;  but  struck  a  rock 
at  the  second,  and  lost  her  masts.  There  she  remained 
an  instant,  until  the  current  jrned  her  round  and  bore 
her  away.  A  bear  here  leaped  overboard  and  swam 
to  the  shore.  The  vessel  soon  filled  and  sunk,  so  that 
only  fier  upper  works  were  afterward  visible.  She 
went  over  the  cataract  almost  without  being  seen,  and 
in  a  few  moments  the  basin  was  perceived  all  scat- 
tered with  her  fragments,  which  were  very  small.  A 
cat  and  a  goose  were  the  only  animals  found  alive 
below.  In  October,  1829,  the  schooner  Superior  was 
towed  into  the  current  and  abandoned ;  but  she  struck 
on  a  rock  about  the  middle  of  the  river,  and  there  re- 
mained.  The  notable  jumper.  Sam  Patch,  lenped.  the 


•llATTLi;   OF   CUllTEWA. 


;jif 


loUowing  day,  from  a  ladder,  125  feet  high,  into  llic 
gulf,  and  escaped  unhurt. 

The  Burjving  SpRi^fG. 

About  half  a  mile  above  the  falls,  and  within  a  few 
feet  of  the  rapids  in  Niagara  river,  is  a  remarkable 
Burning  Spring.  A  house  has  been  erected  over  it, 
into  which  admission  is  obtained  for  a  shilling.  The 
water,  which  is  warm,  turbid,  and  surcharged  with 
sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas,  rises  in  a  barrel  which  has 
been  placed  in  the  ground,  and  is  constantly  in  a  state 
of  ebullition.  The  barrel  is  covered,  and  the  gas 
escapes  only  through  a  copper  tube.  On  bringir^  a 
candle  withm  a  little  distance  of  it,  the  gas  takes  nre, 
and  continues  to  bum  with  a  bright  flame  until  blown 
out.  By  leaving  the  house  closed  and  the  fire  extin- 
guished, the  whole  atmosphere  within  explodes  on 
entering  with  a  candle. 

While  on  the  Canada  side  of  the  falls,  the  visiter 
may  vary  his  time  very  agreeably,  by  visiting  the 
village  of  Chippewa  and  Lundy's  Lane,  in  this  vici- 
nity ;  which,  during  the  late  war  with  Great  Britain, 
were  the  scenes  of  two  sharp  contests. 

The  Battle  op  Chippewa. 

In  July,  1814,,  the  British  and  American  arniie.s 
being  near  each  other.  Gen.  Ripley  ordered  Gen.  Scott 
to  make  an  advance  on  Chippewa,  on  the  3d  of  July, 
with  Capt.  Towson's  division  of  artillery ;  and  tfie 
enemy's  pickets  were  soon  forced  to  retire  across  the 
bridge.  Gen.  Ripley  came  up  in  the  afternoon  and 
encamped  with  Gen.  Scott's  advance. 

The  stranger  may  be  gratified  by  examining  the 
field  of  these  operations,  by  going  to  Chippewa  vil- 
lage, about  two  miles  above  Forsyth's.  The  Ameri? 
can  encampment  of  July  23d  is  in  the  rear  of  a  tavern 
HPar  the  road,  about  a  mile  bevond  ChippewR. 


^^3  1 


<  fj 


tiU 


FALLS   OF   KIAGAKA. 


On  the  6th,  after  some  sharp  shooting,  the  Indians 
were  discovered  ah.  jst  in  the  rear  of  the  American 
camp.  At  this  moment,  Gen.  Porter  arrived  »/ith  his 
volunteers  and  Indians.  Gen.  Brown  immediately 
directed  them  to  enter  the  woods  and  effectually  scour 
them.  Gens.  Brown,  Scott,  and  Ripley  were  at  the 
white  house,  in  advance,  reconnoitring^.  Gen.  Por- 
ter's corps  had  almost  debouched  from  the  woods 
opposite  Chippewa,  when  the  whole  British  force  had 
crossed  the  Chippewa  bridge,  and  Gen.  Scott  ad- 
vanced, and  Gen.  Ripley  was  in  readiness  to  support. 
In  a  few  minutes,  the  British  line  was  discovered  formed 
and  rapidly  advancing — their  ridit  (the  Royal  Scots) 
upon  the  woods,  and  their  left  (the  prince  regent's)  on 
the  river,  with  the  king's  own  for  their  reserve.  Their 
object  was  to  gain  the  bridge  across  the  creek  in  front 
of  the  encampment,  which,  if  done,  would  have  com- 
pelled the  Americans  to  retire.  Gen.  Brown,  fearing 
a  flank  movement  of  the  enemy  through  the  woods  on 
the  left,  directed  Gen.  Ripley  not  to  advance  until  he 
gave  him  orders.  Meanwhile,  Gen.  Scott,  under  a 
most  tremendous  fire  from  the  enemy's  artillery, 
crossed  the  brieve,  and  formed  his  line.  The  British 
orders  were  to  give  one  volley  at  a  distance,  and  im- 
mediately charge.  But  such  was  the  warmth  of  our 
musketry  that  they  could  not  withstand  it.  At  this 
moment.  Gen.  Brown  sent  orders  to  Gen.  Ripley  to 
make  a  movement  through  the  woods  upon  the  ene- 
my's right  flank.  With  the  21st  regiment  he  passed  a 
ravine  in  his  front,  where  the  men  had  to  wade  up  to 
their  chins,  and  advanced  as  rapidly  as  possible.  But 
before  he  commenced  filing  from  the  woods  into  the 
open  land  under  the  enemy's  batteries,  they  had  been 
completely  broken  by  Gen.  Scott's  brigade,  and  threw 
themselves  across  the  Chippewa  bridge,  which  they 
broke  down. 

Although  the  Americans  were  not  able  to  cross  the 
creek,  the  British  thought  proper  to  evacuate  Chippewa 
vervipfecipitately.  and  to  retreat  towards  Queenstown. 


ini 

S5 


1^- 


BATTLE   or   BKlDGEWAXEli. 


,91 


the 
wa 

vn-. 


Ill  tills  affair  the  British  loss,  in  killed,  wounded,  and 
missing,  was  514,  and  the  American  loss  328. 

Nothing  of  importance  occurred  after  this  until  the 
S5th  of  the  same  month,  the  date  of 

» 

The  Battle  of  Bridgbwateb,  or  Lundy's 

Lane. 

The  principal  scene  of  this  hard-foueht  and  bloody 
action  is  about  a  mile  from  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  at  an 
obscure  road,  called  Lundy's  Lane.  Comfortable 
accommodations  are  oflFered  there,  at  the  inn  of  Mr. 
Chysler.  Since  their  retreat  from  Chippewa,  the  ene- 
my had  received  reinforcements  of  troops  from  Lord 
Wellington's  armjr  in  Spain ;  and  on  the  25th  of  July 
encamped  on  a  hill,  with  the  design  of  attacking  the 
American  camp  the  next  morning.  At  6  in  the  eve- 
ning, Gen.  Brown  ordered  Gen.  Scott  to  advance  and 
attack  them,  which  was  immediately  done ;  and  in  con- 
junction with  Gen.  Ripley  the  attack  was  commenced 
in  an  hour.  The  British  were  much  surprised  at  see- 
ing the  approach  of  their  enemy  at  this  hour,  not 
having  discovered  them  until  they  left  the  woods  and 
began  to  march  across  the  open  level  fields  seen  from 
Forsyth's  Hotel,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the 
Jeft.^ 

The  following  letter,  written  by  a  surgeon  of  one 
of  the  American  regiments,  the  day  after  the  engage- 
ment, contains  some  interesting  particulars : 

"The  enemy  had  collected  their  whole  force  in  the 
peninsula,  and  were  reinforced  by  troops  from  Lord 
Wellington's  army,  just  landed  from  Kingston.  For 
two  hours  the  two  hostile  lines  were  within  twenty 
yards  of  each  other,  and  so  frequently  intermingled, 
that  often  an  officer  would  order  an  enemy's  platoon. 
The  moon  shone  bright ;  but  part  of  our  men  being 
dressed  like  the  Glengarian  regiment  caused  the  de- 
ception. They  frequently  charged,  and  were  as  often 
driven  back.  Our  regiment,  under  Colonel  Miller,  was 


ii 


IM.i.s  or  M  \Ki\\i  \ 


i»nU  htl lv»>loviu Iho  HrllKli Imttrry .  W*' «hai>^iMl, aiul 
to\>k  t>>  <  I)'  i>iivt>  ol'  (lu>  t>iu»niyN  Ciumon.  \Vt»  k«pl  iuh 
^oss^ion  o(*  tht'  ii^nuiiul  iinti  liutnoi)  until  1?  oVIock  »( 
niuM.  wIhmi  wo  nit  Irll  l>»ok  iiu>h>  tit  \ii  two  inll<'.i. 
'i1iU  was  (liMio  t(>  Nrnih*  our  ('tuu|).  wliicli  nii^lil 
n||»t^j'wi;o  huvt^  boi'u  nttncktMl  in  iho  wwt.  Our  Iioi-som 
Uv\\\)i:  nuwl  ol  thoni  kilUd.  luul  llioro  hv'm^  no  ropos 
U\  \\\v  |>ioooj«,  wi»  p»t  otV  but  two  or  thn>i'.  'V\\v  uumi 
w(Mi>  so  oxr.rssivoly  liitijijutul  thi\y  oouhl  mt  dtup. 
tluMu.  Wo  lost  t)no  \\\vvt'  {)(  ortnndu,  wliioh  was  t(M» 
nuicli  julvj^nciul*  evory  nmnhoin^'  ?»li(»t  thnt  luuhhni);o 
<»f  it,  but  two.  S(>vor»l  t>i'  our  (>niss«>ns  won'  blown 
up  l»y  thoii  rookots,  wbjob  (liil  scmuo  Jmnry,  nnd  tlo- 
piivod  i>ur  cur.non  o{  ammunition.  Tno  lint^M  vvoro 
M>  nour  tbtU  cunnon  oouM  not  bo  usod  witb  juivnntni^o." 
'I'ho  l^iitish  lost,  in  killoil,  woundrd,  tuui  prixonoiN, 
f'Tti ;  ami  tbo  Amorioans  tlRO. 

WKLLANU  CANAL. 

It  n\av  woll  bo  iHH'on^ntfmbul  totbo  ti'a\ollor  lo  ik- 
voto  a  littlo  time  to  visiting:  this  nt^w,  imporl:mt  an<l 
bi>j:hly  intoit*stii\^  work,  wbirh  can  bo  tUuio  by  tlioso 
wno  have  a  short  tinu*  to  sparo.  liako  vossols  nn^ 
iunvjitlor  io  ij:o  uo  the  VVolland  or  Chippt»wa  rivor 
to  tho  canal;  ami  the  visitor  at  Niaj^ara  will  bo  bul 
about  Ji  or  10  miles  t\\>ni  somi>  parts  o(  it. 

As  it  may  bo  pK\>*mniMl  tlmt  a  travollor,  on  a  lour 
like  tho  pn  sent,  will  o(  course  lay  asiiio  all  i)rivat<' 
and  ovon  rmtional  tooliui^'s,  sut!ici«MitIy  to  admii'ti  what 
is  great  in  the  enterprise  and  arts  ot'  a  noii»;hbourin!:; 
country,  a  specimen  of  human  skill  and  incuistry  like 
the  Wellanii  Canal  may  be  expected  to  interCvSt  ihosn 
into  whose  hands  this  little  volume  may  fall. 

Tlie  impix>vement  of  Upper  Canada  has  had  to  en- 
counter gTeat  obstacles  in  tiie  climate,  the  wildm\ss  ol 
tlie  coimtry,  the  >  icinity  of  a  land  under  a  different 
system  of  government,  the  lai'ge  reserves  of  soil  for 
!fTe  sonix»rt  of  the  clers-v.  (omv?eventh  of  the  whole. ^' 


Wlill.li/iMil    4'Al\Ai.. 


w:i 


;ivntr 


uiid  u  uciiioi'aI  Witril  ol  iiitrlliK^diirr  and  riiiiM'printi^ 
ainoiiM;  (liti  iiiliiihiluiilM.  Sniiic  oi  (litiMi  linvii  Imumi  iiI 
I'TAily  ill  u  roiiNidnriililn  (ItfM^ioii  NiiihiouiihHl,  luiil  ntr 
iikdiy  lo  lid  nIiII  ruitlirr  ovdiroiiir,  hy  llio  iiiuoiiritKn- 
indiilN  (»ll(tnii|  Ity  iho  iiiotluM'  roiinlry,  Ihr*  iiitioilurlioit 
«)1  ht'iriitilir  (Ml^^ilM1l*|-M  iind  IiiiiiIn  hy  llin  </niiti«l(i  r'oiii- 
puny,  Mild  dm  iini*ii[|M<rli)d  iMcilidtN  idVi»rd(i!d  lo NrJititioM 
of  inirniid  iiiiprovoinDiil  hy  Uio  iialiiiMl  ifiiluiOH  oi  dm 
proviiico. 

'rittt  uhNturJi)  wliir.h  i(  vvjih  dm  ohjitrJ  oi  [\m  VVifl 
hirid(4tii(d  (o  Niii'iiioiinlt  im  oi  ii  (-liiirii(:l«'i'  di(d  ^ivf^H 
uniiit  inlrh'Ki  lo  dir  work,  'rim  lni|i(«^f  iwildmct  in 
tn<*  world,  wliicli  proNdiih  ii  ^citim  oi'  r,oiiiuNion,  uproar, 
and  liimnlt,  tliid  nntN  id,  nought  all  lh<i  riilfm  of  imUw 
iind  i-cHti'iiinl,  wiin  lo  Im  Niirinoiiritdd  hy  a  NyMti'in  oi 
\yoikii  in  wliic.li  th(*  ninli  oi'  dm  fliuntint,  no  nwi'iil,  ro 
NiMllnnKf  and  dtiNlriirtivr,  wm  lo  hu  curhud  and  taniftd 
to  a  calm  and  K;4)nlld  dttsr.onl,  and  innditrisd  iiNDinI  to 
tli(^  ohjtictN  oi  coinnidi'cd. 

Fmiii  thiN  li'iMnondouN  and  duHlnictivi)  cataract  ;». 
portion  of  ))ow«r  wan  to  Im  drawn  uway,  inNi^niiicAnt 
indood,  hut  NuiHci«Mit  for  tiic  iiitcuhMitiitN  of  tlioiiHandN 
of  mon ;  and  **dividfMl  and  coiupmrod,*'  redticml  to 
tlid  KDrvitinicf  of  our  laco,  rendorod  MuhNcrvictnt  Ut  ihn 
(•oinplicatcd  arlH  of  civili/ation,  and  coinpfdh^d  to 
perform  thu  mo.sl  liicHomc  and  trilling  tai^kM  in  all  their 
dctiiils. 

The  Wtdland  ('anal  hcgins  imar  the;  raouth  of  Grand 
llivcr.  which  cmpticN  into  Lake  Krie,  ahout  40  milos 
ii'om  Buffalo.  It  will  admit  the  largest  veHHiHH  on  thn 
lakes,  viz.  those  of  ViH  tons.  It  was  firnt  of>enod  to 
navigatiun  in  Nov(»ml)er,  U{y*J,  precinely  live  years  after 
its  coininenccment.  The  work  he^in»  at  Port  Ma  it- 
land  on  Grand  kiver,  ahout  40  iriiles  from  Hufl'alo, 
where  it  Ih  raised  eight  ieet  above  the  level  oi  Lake 
Erie, and  proceeds,  with  only  descending  locks,  to  Port 
Oalhousio,  the  water  being  taken  from  (jlrarid  lliver, 
above  a  dam  erected  for  the  purpose,  at  the  falls,  five 
miles  from  its  mouth.     'JVavellers  who  have  it  in  ffieir 

I 


¥^ 


94 


FALLS  OF    jNIAUAUA. 


power  should  not  fail  to  begin  their  voyage  here,  asJ 
the  whole  work  is  worthy^  orattention ;  but  the  lower 
half  of  it  presents  the  chief  assemblage  of  interesting 
objects. 

The  whole  canal  was  nearly  completed  about  the 
beginning  of  1839,  when  the  sliding  of  the  banks  at 
the  Deep  Cut,  near  Lake  Ontario,  made  it  necessary 
to  make  some  alterations  in  the  plan.  From  Lake 
Erie,  across  the  Wainfleet  Marsh,  to  the  Welland  or 
Chippewa  River,  the  level  of  that  lake  was  at  first 
preserved.  It  has  since  been  raised  five  feet.  The 
Welland  was  to  be  communicated  with  by  means  of 
two  locks  of  six  feet  lift,  and  to  serve  as  a  part  of  the 
navigable  route  for  nine  miles,  to  within  three-quarters 
of  a  mile  of  the  Deep  Cut.  The  Deep  Cut  was  to 
have  been  dug  down  to  the  level  of  the  Welland  ;  and 
the  excavations  had  already  been  nearly  completed 
when  the  accident  occurred.  The  canal  is  now  car- 
ried across  the  marsh  at  a  level  five  feet  above  that  of 
Lake  Erie,  to  Welland  River  at  a  j)oint  five  miles  and 
a  half  below  the  place  before  designed  ;  across  that 
river  on  an  aqueduct,  which  is  high  enough  to  permit 
the  passage  of  vessels ;  and  then  along  the  northern 
bank,  to  the  Deep  Cut,  at  the  northern  end  of  which 
it  descends  by  two  locks.  Beyond  that  point  the  ori- 
ginal plan  is  preserved. 

The  Grand  River,  at  the  dam,  is  nine  chains  across; 
and  the  canal  beginning  at  Broad  Creek,  near  its  mouth, 
and  two  miles  from  the  mouth  of  Grand  River,  proceeds 
in  a  perfectl)'  iraight  line  ;  and  a  communication  is 
open  with  Welland  River  by  locks,  at  the  aqueduct 
and  at  the  Deep  Cut. 

Port  Maitland  is  capable  of  receiving  a  great 
number  of  vessels  such  as  navigate  the  Lake,  for 
which  the  Canal  is  calculated.  The  neighbouring 
part  of  the  lake  is  free  from  ice  earlier  in  tne  spring 
than  that  near  Buffalo  ;  and  it  is  believed  by  the  Ca- 
nadians, that  the  access  to  the  mouth  of  the  Welland 
canal  will  be  open  about  four  or  five  weeks  earlier 


W£LLAND'  CANAL. 


95 


every  year.  This  of  course  would  be  a  great  advan- 
tage. It  is  not,  however,  to  be  expected  that  the  New- 
York  Canal  will  suffer  any  injury  from  the  present 
work.  The  business  will  soon  be  greater  than  can  be 
done  upon  it ;  and  will  increase  with  ^reat  rapidity, 
particularly  after  the  opening  of  the  Ohio  Canal. 

Mainfleet  Marsh,  This  is  a  tract  of  swampy  land, 
elevated  only  about  eight  feet  above  the  level  of  Lake 
Erie,  and  extending  from  its  shore  to  Welland  or 
Chippewa  river.  The  canal  passes  it  by  a  thorough 
cut  ten  miles  long,  and  varying  from  ten  to  sixteen 
feet  in  depth,  communicating  with  many  ponds  and 
pools.  This  is  the  depth  desig^ned  to  cut  this  part  of 
the  canal,  since  it  was  determined,  in  l«28,  to  draw 
the  supply  from  Grand  River,  and  raise  the  summit 
level  several  feet,  on  account  of  the  caving  in  at  the 
Deep  Cut.  It  is  a  fact  well  established  by  scientific 
surveyors,  that  only  a  narrow  ledge  of  rocks  occurs 
between  the  two  lakes,  and  that,  if  tnis  were  removed, 
the  soil  is  generally  of  so  loose  a  nature,  that  a  current 
of  water  mi^ht  soon  wear  away  a  deep  channel,  drain 
off  Lake  £rie,  and  cause  a  tremendous  inundation. 
This  barrier  will  be  seen  at  the  Mountain  Ridge,  on 
the  northern  part  of  the  Canal,  where  the  descent  is 
above  300  feet.  From  Lake  Erie  to  that  place  the 
stranger  will  observe  that  he  proceeds  on  an  almost 
uninterrupted  level.  The  continuation  of  the  Moun- 
tain Ridge  forms  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  and  the  eleva- 
tion of  ground  at  Lockport,  surmounted  by  the  noble 
works  at  that  place.  It  runs  for  many  miles,  present- 
ing towards  the  east  an  irregular  Ime  of  precipice, 
with  salient  and  re-entering  angles,  like  an  immense 
fortification.  Most  of  the  streams  which  fall  over  it 
pour  down  the  ravines  thus  formed. 

An  experienced  and  capable  engineer.  Judge 
Geddes,  first  published  this  fact  in  the  Journal  of  Sci- 
ence and  the  Arts,  and  stated  that  there  appeared  to 
be  every  reason  to  suppose  one  of  these  natural  ravines 
received  the  Niagara  river  at  the  Falls  ;  and  that  the 


•M 


9ii 


FALLfi   OF   NIAGAllA. 


apparent  attrition  of  the  rocks  for  a  g^eat  distance 
])etow,  and  the  general  belief  of  the  cataract  having 
retired  for  miles,  are  not  to  be  con6ded  in. 

The  Welland  River ^  a  very  sluggish  stream,  was  to 
1)0  used  for  ten  miles,  being  entered  by  a  lock  of  eight 
feet  lift,  a  towing  path  being  formea  along  its  bank. 
It  was,  however,  determined,  in  1828,  to  cross  this 
stream  by  an  aqueduct.  This  river  has  a  course  of  30 
or  40  miles,  between  the  two  lakes,  but  nearly  on  a 
level  with  Lake  Erie,  and  empties  into  Niagara  River 
about  two  miles  above  the  falls.  It  was  intended  that 
vessels  passing  the  sloop  lock  at  Black  Rock,  should 
enter  the  canal  by  this  route  ;  and  the  Canal  Company 
were  authorized  to  make  a  towing  path  along  the  Ni- 
agara and  the  Welland  Rivers.  Its  breadth  is  from 
three  to  four  chains. 

The  Deep  Cut*  We  approach  a  part  of  the  canal 
in  which  the  greater t  labour  and  expense  were  re- 
quired. It  extends  one  mile  and  three  quart(»rs,  and 
required  the  excavation  of  1,477,700  cubic  yards  of 
earth.  The  excavation  is  now  to  an  average  depth  of 
45  feet.  The  ground  is  undulating,  and  the  greatest 
depth  is  56  feet. 

The  surface  suddenly  rises  to  the  height  of  38  feet ; 
and  106  chains  further,  to  66  feet  6  inches.  Thence 
it  descends  until,  at  the  end  of  the  Deep  Cut,  it  is  only 
30  feet.  This  ground  has  been  excavated,  and  the 
level  of  the  canal  preserved,  by  the  greatest  work  of 
the  kind  in  America,  excepting  perhaps  the  aqueduct 
on  the  plain  of  Mexico.  The  earth,  to  12  or  18  feet 
below  the  surface,  was  clay  mixed  with  a  little  sand. 
Below  that  was  a  hard  blue  clay,  frequently  requiring 
the  pickaxe.  The  earth  dug  out  near  the  middle  of 
the  cut  was  raised  up  the  banks,  which  are  160  feet 
apart  at  the  deepest  places,  as  the  nature  of  the  soil 
required  a  gradual  slope.  In  1828,  however,  great 
masses  sunk  down  again  into  the  canal,  so  that  the  ex- 
cavations are  made  to  a  level  17  feet  above  that  at  first 
designed. 


L 


^VELLAND   CANAL. 


yy 


Lock  No.  1,  of  the  Mountain  Ridge,  is  4  miles  and 
23  chains  fVom  the  Deep  Cut.  The  intervening  sur- 
face is  undulating,  and  t-ne  canal  passes  alternate  ra- 
vines and  ridges.  Bv  damming  the  former  a  little  way 
from  the  line  on  the  left,  numerous  pools  or  reser- 
voirs (taken  together,  two  miles  in  length)  were 
formed,  which  would  have  been  very  useful  for  the 
locks. 

Near  the  brow  of  the  Mountain  Ridge  is  an  eleva- 
tion, which  required  an  excavation  nearly  20  feet  deep 
for  20  chains.  On  this  level  are  four  twin  bridges, 
with  butments  40  feet  asunder,  corresponding  with  the 
breadth  of  all  the  locks  westward  of  this  place,  which 
are  40  feet  by  125,  and  able  to  admit  steamboats  up 
to  this  point,  either  trora  Grand  River  or  Niagara 
River,  by  the  Welland. 

Locks  Nos.  1,  3,  3,  4,  are  in  a  ravine  52  chains  in 
length,  which  introduces  the  stranger  to  the  most  re- 
markable scene  of  the  kind  in  the  world. 

The  Mountain  Ridge.  Within  the  extent  of  a  mile 
and  55  chains  are  17  locks  of  22  feet  by  100,  which 
overcome  nearly  the  whole  elevation  of  Lake  Erie 
above  Ontario.  The  canal  winds  along  the  face  of 
the  descent,  bending  to  the  left  and  the  right,  to  give 
room  for  reservoirs  between  the  locks,  necessary  for 
a  convenient  supply  of  water.  None  of  the  locks  are 
less  than  30  yards  apart.  This  is  the  only  part  of  the 
route  where  rocks  were  to  be  excavated,  and  the 
amount  of  rock  removed  here  was  70,000  cubic  yards. 

At  the  foot  of  this  long  and  steep  descent  the  canal 
enters  a  ravine,  which  extends  two  and  a  half  miles 
through  12  locks,  between  high  banks,  to 

St,  Catharine's.  The  descent  from  the  top  of  the 
ridge  to  this  place  is  322  feet.  Though  a  small  vil- 
lage, St.  Catharine's  has  already  become  a  place  of 
considerable  importance.  To  Lake  Ontario  from  this 
place,  five  miles,  there  are  four  locks,  32  feet  by  125, 
and  one  of  ten  feet  lift.  The  route  runs  chiefly  along 
the  valley  of  the  principal  branch  of  the  Twelve  Mil© 
Creek.  1 2 


u. 


IP 


1  ALLS   OF  rtlAUAKA. 


Port  Dnlhousie,  the  harbour  of  the  Wclland  Canal 
on  Lake  Ontario,  is  protected  by  two  fine  piers,  run 
out  200  or  350  yards,  nearly  at  the  angle  of  storm, 
ivhidi  is  about  80  decrees  west :  the  eastern  overlap- 
ping the  western,  with  a  return  pier,  which  is  better 
than  the  break- water  ori^;inaliy  proposed.  The  ground 
was  here  found  to  be  a  brown  alluvion,  well  6tted  ibr 
the  driving  of  piles.  A  large  harbour  for  boats,  and  a 
timber  pond  for  rafts,  have  been  formed  by  damming 
the  mouth  of  Twelve  Mile  Creek,  which  throws  the 
water  back  over  an  area  of  500  acres.  A  waste  weir 
lets  off  the  surplus  water  without  allowing  it  to  enter 
the  harbour,  so  that  there  is  no  current  formed  through 
it,  and  no  danger  is  incurred  of  forming  a  bar  at  its 
mouth.  A  locK  of.  five  feet  lift  raises  vessels  from  the 
harbour  to  the  basin. 

It  has  been  ascertained  that  a  branch  canal  might  be 
cut  on  a  dead  level,  and  at  the  expense  of  only 
20,000/.  from  somewhere  near  the  foot  of  the  Mountain 
Ridge  to  Niagara,  nine  miles  ;  but  no  decisive  measures 
have  yet  been  adopted.  It  would  cross  Ten,  Four, 
Two,  and  One  Mile  Creeks. 

The  Canada  Land  Company,  by  whom  this  magni- 
ficent work  has  been  planneu  ana  accomplished,  is  a 
corporation,  under  the  parliament  of  the  colony,  with 
a  capital  of  ^600,000,  of  which  a  large  portion  was 
supplied  by  individual  subscriptions,  partly  in  New- 
York  and  England.  The  government  of  Upper  Ca- 
nada subscribed  j{200,000  and  lent  j^ J  00,000.  That 
of  Lower  Canada  subscribed  g  100,000.  The  British 
government  have  granted  them  one-ninth  of  the  whole 
cost  of  the  work,  and  13,000  acres  of  land  on  the 
route,  west  of  Welland  River.  Public  stores,  &c.  are 
to  be  transported  on  the  canal  free  of  duty. 

This  canal  admits  larger  vessels  than  any  other  in 
America,  except  the  Delaware  and  Chesap)eake  Ca- 
nal in  Pennsylvania,  for  which  see  the  index.  The 
locks  are  of  wood,  but  built  on  the  most  approved 
principles.    The  common  dimensions  are   100  feet 


ioi 
sel 
acl 
bel 
thi 
quj 

S( 

EH 

an( 

natj 
wal 
am 


TOWN   OF   GVELHI. 


09 


ion^,  22  wide,  and  8  deep ;  and  are  calculated  for  ves- 
sels of  from  100  to  135  tons  burthen.  The  larpcest 
schooners  heretofore  mei\  on  the  lakes,  are  stated  to 
be  not  more  than  90  feet  long,  20  wide,  with  a  bur* 
then  of  from  60  to  90  tons.  Many  of  the  locks  re* 
quired  puddling:  and  flagging:. 

The  lockage  on  this  canal  being  all  on  one  de- 
scent, there  never  can  be  any  want  ot  water :  Lake 
Erie  being  on  the  summit  level.  The  nunierous  ponds 
and  pools  are  however  convenient  reservoirs.  The 
nature  of  the  work  is  such  as  to  allow  deepening  the 
water  by  merely  building  the  locks  so  much  bigoer, 
and  raisinff  the  dam  over  Welland  River. 

Men  of  science  in  the  branches  of  engineering 
which  relate  (o  the  construction  of  canals,  have  spoken 
with  approbation,  and  frequently  admiration,  of  the 
modes  adopted  on  the  line  of  the  Welland  Canal :  the 
manner  of  removing  earth  from  deep  cuttings:  the 

Elans  of  the   wooden  Jocks,  paddle    gates,   draw- 
ridges,  kc. 

The  town  ofGitelph  is  a  creation  of  the  ycir  1827  ; 
it  was  laid  out  and  settled  under  the  direc^tii^i  of  the 
Canada  Land  Company ;  and  a  village  has  suddenly 
sprung  up  in  the  midst  of  the  wilderness.  The  Sem^ 
nary  was  founded  the  first  year  of  its  existence,  and 
tbere  have  been  built  the  Company's  office,  of  stone, 
192  feet  square,  a  church,  and  schoolhouse.  This 
place  is  the  central  settlement  on  a  tract  of  the  Com- 
pany's lands  In  the  Gore  District,  called  the  Town- 
ship of  Guelph,  containing  48,000  acres  of  Crown  re- 
serves for  the  Six  Nations.  The  Clergy  Reserves  are 
on  the  N.  E.  of  it,  beyond  which  are  "Flamboro'  and 
Beverly.  The  township  of  Waterloo  is  S.  S.  W.  of 
Guelph ;  and  probably  the  wealthiest  fanning  town* 
ship  in  the  province.  Guelph  Township  has  a  soil  of 
black,  fertile,  sandy  loam,  bearing  beech,  maple,  elm, 
bass,  asli,  cherry,  some  pine,  cedar,  and  hemlock.  The 
surface  is  irregular,  and  the  streams  swift.  The  town 
is  on  the  river  Speed.  12  miles  irom  its  confluence 


" 


iOU 


FALLS   OF    ^lAiiAUA. 


with  Grand  River,  6  from  Waterloo,  14  from  Gait,  3«l 
by  the  present  road  from  Ancaster,  and  25  from  Lake 
Ontario.  A  fine  straigjht  road,  8  rods  wide,  is  to  be 
opened  in  that  direction.  Rivers  run  from  this  town 
into  lakes  Huron,  Simcoe,  Erie,  and  Ontario ;  and  the 
Canada  Company  intend  to  render  them  all  navigable 
if  possible. 

Goderich  is  a  town  lately  laid  out  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Red,  or  Goderich  River ;  to  which  a  road  was 
making  in  1828,  from  Guelph,  by  the  government,  and 
Jots  of  100  ^cres  oftered  for  sale. 

Burlington.  The  bay  is  remarkably  fine ;  it  is  shel- 
tered from  every  wind,  contains  15,000  acres,  and  is 
25  feet  deep.  The  fort  on  the  heights  is  very  strong 
and  commanding.  A  lar^e  fleet  might  lie  under  its 
protection.  It  is  proposed  to  make  a  graving  dock  in 
Grindstone  Creek,  by  damming  it,  under  the  guns  of 
the  fort.     An  artificial  entrance  has  been  made. 

DundaSf  at  the  head  of  Burlington  Bay,  is  a  flourish- 
ing place,  and  rising  in  importance.  A  road  was  in 
construction  to  this  place  from  Guelph  in  1828. 

Improvements  projected  in  Canada.  Among  the 
most  recent  projects  for  internal  improvement  in  Ca- 
nada, is  that  of  a  canal  from  Lake  Huron  to  the  Bay 
of  Quinte.  This  would  open  a  communication  at  a 
distance  from  the  frontier  of  the  Unjied  States,  by 
which,  in  time  of  war,  goods,  military  stores,  muni- 
tions, &c.  might  be  transported  without  the  risks  to 
which  they  would  be  exposed  on  the  present  routes. 
The  engineers  employed  by  the  British  government 
state  that  there  are  broken  links  formed  by  Simcoe, 
Cameron,  Pigeon,  and  Front  Lakes,  which  might  be 
connected  without  any  great  difficulty  in  one  entire 
chain  of  water  communication.  The  hne  migut  touch 
at  the  Marmora  Iron  Works,  and  pass  throu^  the 
new  "settlements  near  Rice  Lake  and  the  River  Trent, 
which  are  flourishing.  The  population  of  Upper  Ca- 
nada V  as  iislieved  to  amount  to  200,000  in  1828. 

It  has  been  proposed  to  make  canals  for  sloop  navi- 


TUB   WESTERN  LAKES. 


101 


gation  from  Prescott  to  Montreal.  The  advantages  of 
such  works,  taken  into  view  with  the  Welland  Canaly 
are  easy  to  estimate.  Before,  the  transportation  of 
1000  staves  from  Lake  Erie  to  Montreal  cost  ^90.  If 
all  these  canals  were  made,  the  cost  would  be  reduced 
to  ^50.  Sloops  carryin§:  6000  staves  could  make  six 
trips  a  year,  and  ^ain  jJ^lBOO.  A  barrel  of  flour  which 
paid  6s.  for  that  distance,  would  pay  only  3^.  A  ton 
of  merchandise  now  costs  £,4  5s.  for  transportation 
between  Prescott  and  Montreal,  and  would  then  cost 
only  £1  7*. 

lorkf  the  capital  of  Upper  Canada,  is  a  place  of 
considerable  size.  The  public  buildings  make  little 
figure.  The  harbour  is  very  fine,  protected  by  defen> 
sive  works  on  Gibraltar  Point.  Kmg's  College  is  of 
recent  institution,  and  bears  the  style  and  privileges  of 
a  university.  The  governor  is  chancellor,  the  Lord 
Bishop  of  Qjjebec  visiter,  and  the  Archdeacon  of 
York  president.  The  chancellor  appoints  professors. 
No  religious  tests  are  required  except  for  aegises  in 
divinity,  as  at  Oxford  and  Cambriage.  A  road  is 
making  to  Guelph,  47  miles,  and  on  to  Goderich,  less 
than  100  further. 


THE  WESTERN  LAKES. 

Ontario  is  180  miles  long,  40  miles  wide,  500  feet 
deep ;  and  its  surface  is  computed  at  218  feet  above 
the  elevation  of  tide  water  at  Three  Rivers,  270 
miles  below  Cape  Vincent. 

£ne  is  270  rniles  long,  60  miles  wide,  200  feet 
deep ;  and  its  surface  is  565  feet  above  tide  water  at 
Albany.  It  was  said,  in  1823,  to  be  between  2  and  3 
feet  higher  thar  a  few  years  before,  having  gradually 
risen. 

Huron  is  250  miles  long,  100  miles  average  breadth, 
900  feet  deep ;  and  its  surface  is  nearly  595  feet  above 
the  tide  water. 

Michigan  is  400  miles  long,  50  wide,  depth  un- 
known ;  elevation  the  same  as  Huron. 


lU 


n 


u 

w 


:  1; 


ill 


W2 


FALLS   OF   MIAOAllA. 


Green  Bay  is  about  1C5  miles  long,  20  miles  wide, 
depth  unknown;  elevation  the  same  as  Huron  and 
Michigan. 

Lake  Superior  is  459  miles  lon^,  109  miles  average 
width,  900  feet  deep ;  and  its  surface  1048  feet  above 
the  tide  water. 

Hence  the  bottom  of  Lake  Erie  is  not  as  low  as  the 
foot  of  Niagara  Falls ;  but  the  bottom  of  each  of  the 
other  lakes,  it  will  be  observed,  is  lower  than  the  sur- 
face of  the  ocean. 

"Lake  Superior  is  the  head  fountain,  the  grand  reser- 
voir of  the  mighty  volume.  After  making  a  semi- 
circle of  tive  degrees  to  the  south,  accommodating  and 
enriching  one  of  the  most  fertile  and  interesting  sec- 
tions of  the  globe,  it  meets  the  tide  a  distance  of  2000 
miles  from  its  source,  and  5000  from  the  extreme  point 
of  its  estuary,  on  the  Atlantic  coast." 

xhe  lakes  have  a  periodica!  rise  once  in  twelve 
years.     It  occurred  in  1815  and  1827. 

The  Ferry  across  Niagara  river  is  about  half  a 
mile  below  the  Falls,  and  may  be  crossed  at  ai:7  hour 
in  the  day,  without  danger,  notwithstanding  the  ra- 
pidity of  the  current.  The  descent  from  the  bank  is 
so  steep,  that  it  has  been  n-^cessary  to  build  a.  stair- 
case. 

To  Bvffalo  en  the  Canada,  side  28i  miles. 

To  Chippewa, 2  miles. 

Waterloo,  (Fort  Erie,)  ....     16 
(Over  the  ferry  to  Black  Rock,  25  cts.  each  passenger.) 
Buffalo, n 

Opposite  Buffalo,  in  Waterloo,  are  the  remains  of 
Fort  Erie,  a  fortress  of  great  consequence  in  the  late 
war.  There  was  a  strong  wall  surrounded  with  in- 
trenchments  reaching  to  the  lake.  The  remains  of  the 
British  camp  are  also  seen,  and  the  trees  are  still 
wounded  vv  ith  shot. 

Battle  of  Erie.  On  the  17th  of  September,  1814,  a 
severe  action  was  fought  at  a  little  distance  from  Fort 
Erie,  when  a  part  of  the  American  garrison,  1000  regu- 


JtKMAi{K3   ON    LPPKR   CANAJJA. 


10« 


iais  and  1000  militia,  made  a  sortie,  and  took  the 
British  works,  about  500  yards  in  front  of  their  line. 
The  British  had  two  batteries  on  their  left,  which 
annoyed  the  fort,  and  were  about  opening  a  third. 
Their  camp  was  about  two  miles  distant,  sheltered  by 
a  wood :  their  works  were  garrisoned  with  one-third 
of  their  infantry^,  from  12  to  1500  men,  and  a  de- 
tachment of  artillery. 

Gen.  Porter  with  the  volunteers,-  Col.  Gibson  with 
the  riflemen,  and  Maj.  Brooks  with  the  33d  and  21st 
li^ht  infantry,  and  a  few  dismounted  dragoons,  were 
'^er  ^'om  the  extreme  left  of  the  American  position, 
i  y  ..  i^dssage  cut  through  the  woods  towards  the  ene- 
my's right ;  and  Gen.  Miller  was  stationed  in  the  ra- 
vine between  the  fort  and  the  enemy's  batteries ;  while 
Gen.  Ripley  bad  a  reserve  under  the  bastions. 

A  little  before  3  P.  M.  the  left  columns  commenced 
their  attack  upon  the  enemy's  right ;  and  Gen.  Miller 
at  the  same  time  pushed  forward  between  Nos.  2  and 
and  3  of  the  batteries,  broke  their  line,  and  took  their 
two  blockhouses.  Battery  No.  1  was  soon  after  de- 
serted, the  guns  were  spiked,  and  the  magazine  of  No; 
3  was  blown  up.  Gen.  Ripley  was  wounded,  and 
Col.  Gibson  !dUed.  The  action  lasted  about  an  hour, 
which  g?  «;  sime  for  the  remaining  two-thirds  of  the 
enemy's  f  o  'o  march  from  their  camp  and  partake 
in  it.  llic  /  -r  ricans  at  length  retired  with  prisoners, 
having  succeeJr  1  in  their  object.  The  British  suf- 
fered so  much,  that  Lieut.  Gen.  Drummond  broke  up 
iiis  camp  on  the  21st,  and  retired  to  his  intrenchments 
behind  the  Chippewa  River. 

Gemral  Remarks  on  Upper  Canada,  This  exten- 
sive district  has  bejcun  to  increase  in  population  with 
great  r?T^idity,  and  groat  ^xertions  are  making  to  intro- 
duce i  •  provements  of  various  kinds.  The  Wclland 
Canal,  \s  itch  has  already  been  spoken  of,  promises 
advantages  of  great  importance  to  the  colonies. 

Emigration  has  l^een  so  much  encouraged  by  the 
British  government,  for  the  peopling  of  this  part  of 


104        UOUTJi:  FKOM  NIAGARA  'il'U  MOiNTUEAL. 

their  possessions,  that  great  numbers  of  Irish,  Scotch^ 
and  English  have  come  over  within  a  few  years.  In 
the  seven  years  preceding  1825, 68,000  emi^i-ants  ar- 
rived at  Qjuebec  ;  in  1825,  9000,  and  many  since. 

According  to  Fothergill,  there  were  then,  in  Upper 
Canada,  989,294  acres  of  cultivated  land  ;  grist  mills, 
304  ;  saw  mills,  386  ;  merchant  stores,  394  ;  houses, 
30,774  ;  oxen,  27,644  ;  milch  cows,  67,000  ;  calves, 
35,000 ;  290  townships  surveyed,  containing  in  all  17 
million  acres;  abou  vvi^o  millions  wild  lands;  dis* 
tillers'  duty,  $46,000,  ^       ^  27.) 

To  Bifffitlo,  on  the  American  side,  30|  mile$. 

Tonawanta  Creek,  where  the  canal  passes,     11  milc''. 

Black  Rock, 10 

Buffalo, .,      2^ 

To  Fort  Ceorge,  4  miles. 

Queenstown, t 

Fort  Geoige,  .    •    • 7 

[The  route  from  Niagara  to  Albany  and  the  Springs 
will  be  taken  up  after  the  route  to  Montreal.] — 
Seep,  109. 

ROUTE  FROM  NIAGARA  TO  MONTREAT.. 

392  miles. 

Those  who  have  never  travelled  through  the  state 
of  New-York,  and  have  leisure  to  make  so  circuitous 
a  route,  will  prefer  to  go  to  Buffalo,  Lockpoil,  or  Ro- 
chester, and  take  the  line  of  the  Erie  Canal,  the 
Springs,  Lake  George,  and  Lake  Champlain,  in  their 
way  to  Montreal.  Many,  however,  will  prefer  to  take 
the  more  direct  route,  which  is  by  the  steamboats 
through  hake  Ontario,  and  is  performed  in  about  two 
days.  The  American  boats  go  from  Fort  Niagara  to 
Ogdensburgh,  keeping  towards  the  southern  shore,  and 


I'OUT  (^EAESfcE. 


iU.J 


to 


loucliiiig'  at  the  principal  ports.  The  British  boats 
make  a  few  stops,  but  steer  a  course  very  near  the 
middle  of  the  lake,  which  is  th  boundary  between 
the  two  countries :  they  are  usually  out  of  sight  of 
land  about  twelve  hours.  There  are  several  high 
points  on  the  northern  shore.  The  most  important 
are  the  cliffs  of  Torento,  the  Devil's  Nose,  and  the 
Fifty  Mile  HilK 

Route  from  Niagara  to  Montreal.  There  were 
seven  steamboats,  in  1828,  owned  on  the  British  side 
of  Lake  Ontario  ;  the  Alciope,  Qjueenston,  Torento, 
Sir  J.  Kempt,  Dalhousie,  &c. 

The  steamboats  go  to  York  in  about  4J  hours ;  stop 
at  Kingston*  in  about  24  hours  from  Niagara,  and  at 
Prescott  in  twelve  hours  more  ;  thence  stage  coach  to 
Cornwall ;  whence  a  steamboat,  in  five  hours,  brings 
you  to  the  foot  of  Lake  St.  Francis.  A  steamboat  of 
69  horse  power  was  built  in  1827,  lo  pass  the  rapids 
at  Coteau  du  Lac,  and  to  take  passengers  to  the 
village  of  the  Cedars,  nine  miles  further  than  here- 
tofore by  water.  From  the  Cedars  to  the  cascade 
is  in  stage  coaches,  about  16  miles.  Thence  a  steam- 
boat goes  in  4  hours  to  Lachine  ;  and  thence  to  Mon- 
treal a  stage  coach,  which  stops  at  the  Exchange 
CoflFee  House.  The  fare  from  Prescott  to  Montreal 
was  J7 — and  from  Niagara  J20 — The  additional  ex- 
penses for  board  amount  on  the  whole  journey  to 
about  g2|. 

American  Boats. 

Port  Genesee,  72  miles,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Genesee 
River,  is  a  port  of  entry  and  delivery.  Here  are  a 
custom-house,  and  the  village  of  Charlotte,  in  Monroe 
county.  This  river  rises  in  Pennsylvania,  and  runs  a 
gently  winding  course  about  125  miles  in  the  state  of 

*M  Kingston^  (U.  C)  is  to  be  seen  the  Cataraqui  BridEO,  where  is 
to  be  the  route  between  Lake  Ontario  and  the  Ottawa  River.  The 
(Steamboat  Dalhousie,  which  Arst  passed  this  bridge  in  1829,  is  to  be  a 
model  tor  other  Iwats  on  the  route;  viz.  78  feet  long,  31  feet  4  inch**" 
wiijp,  including  tiw  wings,  draught  of  water  4  feet. 


^1: 


m 


ill 


ii 


10G         ROUTE  FROM  ?sIAGARA  TO  MO.NTRKAL. 

New- York.  It  is  navigable  only  four  mites  from  it* 
mouth,  to  Carthage,  where  the  banks  are  hiffh,  rocky, 
and  perpendicular ;  and  there  is  a  fine  fall  (104  feet, 
including  the  rapidsj  &c.)  about  half  a  mile  above. 
Stage  coaches  are  in  waiting  for  Rochester,  six  miles. 
See  Carthage,  page  64. 

Great  Soaus  Bay,  35  m.  Here  are  three  bays  in 
succession :  Sodus,  East,  and  Port  Bays.  There  are 
three  Islands,  and  Port  Glasgow  is  at  the  head  of  the 
bay,  only  10^  miles  from  Clyde,  on  the  canal,  with  a 
good  road  to  it. 

Oswego,  28  m.  This  village  is  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  Oswego  River,  and  has  a  good  harbour,  with  ten 
feet  water.  Navigation  on  this  river  ended  half  a  mile 
above,  except  for  boats,  which  went  12  miles  further.  A 
very  large  button-wood  tree,  35^  feet  in  circumference, 
is  seen  a  mile  from  the  village  near  the  road. 

This  place  is  likely  to  oecome  one  of  the  most 
rapid  growth  and  improvement  in  all  the  state  of  New- 
York.  Its  prosperity,  not  being  derived  directly  from 
the  influence  of  the  Erie  Canal,  but  from  one  of  its 
principal  branches,  is  of  a  date  correspondent  with  the 
commencement  of  the  latter  work,  1826.  (See  Sy- 
racuse,) It  was  completed  in  1828.  It  joins  the  Erie 
Canal  at  Salina,  and  will  afford  an  interesting  excur- 
sion either  way.  From  the  head  of  the  falls  to  the 
village,  it  leads  along  the  ilv  ^r's  bank,  preserving  the 
elevated  level  almost  to  the  bruw  of  the  hill  over  the 
Lake,  and  then  descends  by  locks.  For  the  distance 
of  a  mile  the  interval  between  the  canal  and  the  river 
affords  the  most  Ldvanta^^eous  situations  for  manufac- 
tories of  various  descriptions,  for  which  the  land  was 
purchased  in  lots  in  1827  at  from  j^^jSOO  to  $3,600. 
Lake  vessels  can  lie  on  one  side  of  the  manufactories 
and  canal  boats  on  the  other ;  and  Congress  have  ap- 
propriated 3535,000  for  protecting  the  harbour  with 
piers.  The  opening  of  the  Welland  canal  will  pro- 
bably increase  the  business  of  the  place,  which,  be- 
fore these  improvements,  was  out  of  the  way  of  travel- 


bACKETT  S  HAHBOUU . 


1U7 


lers,  except  as  a  point  where  the  steamboats  stoppsd. 
The  lake  is  70  miles  wide  opposite  Oswego. 

Fort  Oswego,  so  famous  in  the  history  ofthe  French 
and  revolutionary  wars,  stands  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river.  The  situation  was  very  advantageous  for  the 
command  of  a  large  extent  of  country,  as  this  river  is 
the  common  outlet  of  all  the  interior  lakes  of  the  state. 
While  this  post  was  held  alternately  by  the  French 
and  English,  they  could  command  a  great  part  of  the 
trade  with  the  Five  Nations  of  Indians,  who  inhabited 
the  country  with  which  it  communicated. 

Fort  Oswego  is  elevated  only  about  50  feet  from  the 
level  of  the  water;  and  being  overlooked  by  the 
eminence  on  which  Fort  Ontario  was  afterward 
erected,  was  fit  only  for  a  defence  in  early  times.  A 
trading  house  was  built  here  in  1722,  and  a  fort  five 
years  after.  This  was  extended  in  the  beginning  of 
the  French  war  of  1755,  when  Fort  Ontario  was 
built.  In  the  following  year.  General  Montcalm 
came  from  Canada,  and  besieged  the  fortresses  with 
3000  troops,  and  two  vessels.  Fort  Ontario  was 
evacuated  after  one  attack;  and  on  the  following  day, 
August  14th,  Fort  Oswego  surrendered  to  the  French, 
with  a  large  quantity  of  stores,  brought  at  great  ex- 
pense through  the  wilderness,  and  31  cannon,  14 
mortars,  &c.  also  two  sloops,  and  about  200  boats. 
The  captors,  however,  did  not  think  proper  to  hold 
the  position,  but  immediately  abandoned  it. 

Col.  St.  Leger  attempted  to  approach  Albany  by 
this  route  in  1777,  in  order  to  co-operate  with  Gen. 
Burgoyne  ;  but  he  was  repulsed  at  Fort  Slanwix  by 
Col.  VVillet,  and  obliged  to  return. 

In  1814,  on  the  6th  of  May,  the  British  attacked  the 
place,  and,  after  a  loss  of  about  100  men,  got  posses- 
sion of  it,  but  evacuated  it  the  next  day. 

Sacketfs  Harbour,  40  m.  Settled  in  1801.  In  the 
late  war,  it  became  an  important  naval  station,  and 
increased  very  rapidly.  It  is  8  miles  distant  from  the 
Jake,  on  Hounslow  Bay.    The  harbour  is  divided  into 


:i'  i  1. 


108    HouTi:  nio^  magaka  to  Montreal. 


two  by  a  narrow  point,  and  offers  great  advantages 
for  ship  building.  A  first  rate^man-of-war  is  still  un- 
finished on  the  stocks,  under  a  shelter,  and  another  at 
Black  River.  On  the  shore  are  seen  the  stone  Bar- 
racksf  which  enclose  about  ten  acres  of  ground. 

Cape  Fincentt  20  m.  The  St.  Lawrence  is  here 
divided  by  Grand  Island.  Kingston,  in  Upper  Canada, 
lies  opposite,  at  the  distance  of  1 1  miles. 

Morristawn,  This  is  a  small  village,  10  miles  from 
Offdensbuigh.  The  river  is  a  little  more  than  a  mile 
in  breadth,  and  on  the  opposite  side  is  Brockville. 
There  is  a  number  of  rocky  islands  in  the  St.  Law- 
rence, and  the  gentle  slope  of  the  land  on  the  New- 
York  shore,  adds  a  great  degree  of  beauty  to  the 
scene. 

General  Wilkinson  embarked  at  this  place  in  1813. 

Ogdenshurgh,  formerly  Oswegatchie.  This  is  the 
end  of  the  navigation,  and  here  the  steamboat  stops. 
The  village  is  pretty,  contains  some  large  stores,  and 
carries  on  considerable  business.  On  the  other  side  of 
the  river  is  Prescott,  where  the  British  steamboat 
stops.  The  ruins  of  Fort  Oswegatchie^  or  Fort  Pre- 
sentation, may  still  be  traced.  It  was  not  very  large, 
and  contained  only  a  bomb-proof,  two  buildings  of 
stone,  barracks,  &c.  It  was  built  in  the  beginning  or 
middle  of  the  last  century.  Grapes  are  cultivated 
here  with  great  success. 

The  Thousand  Islands  are  a  most  beautiful  part  of 
the  navigation,  presentimr  themselves  in  every  variety 
of  forms,  though  never  rising  to  any  great  elevation. 
They  might  be  compared  with  the  islands  of  Lake 
George. 

Gcdlop  klandsf  5  m.  Here  the  rapids  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  begin.  A  number  of  mills  will  be  seen  at 
different  places  on  the  shore.  On  Stony  Island  was  a 
fort  of  some  consequence,  which  was  taken  by  Gene- 
ral Amherst  on  his  way  to  Montreal,  in  the  year  1760. 

St»  RegiSf  54  m.  The  I  ndian  tribe  which  bears  this 
namp  have  a  reservation  of  land  here  11  miles  bv 


»S":--  -j;-;^  "'/'■'  ■  ^Sfr  •'  ' 


"■^im^^". 


wr/ 


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J;-''-.-  ■:*'•'■  ::r'i^5^,-^ 


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■■■■■•  -^ry"--^:, 


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ROLTE  FKOM  MA6ARA  TO  ALBAXV. 


109 


4> 


^ 


I 


Lachine,  63  in.     f  See  Index.) 
Montreal f  9  m'.    (See  do.) 

ROUTE  FROM  NIAGARA  TO  ALBANY. 

Black  Rock  is  a  pleasant  village  situated  on  the 
margin  of  Niagara  River,  a  little  way  from  its  head, 
and  opposite  Squaw  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  Lake  Erie. 
It  was  burnt  by  the  British  duiing  the  war  in  1814, 
but  has  since  been  rebuilt  and  increased  to  a  much 
greater  size.  Black  Rock  disputed  with  Buffalo  the 
privilege  of  having  the  basin  of  the  canal  built  in  her 
harbour,  and  at  last  obtained  it.  A  pier  about  two 
miles  in  length  was  built  to  secure  the  boats  and  ves- 
sels from  the  waves  of  the  lake,  as  well  as  to  raise 
the  water  for  the  supply  of  the  canal  to  the  Genesee 
River.  The  work,  however,  has  its  disadvantages  : 
for  the  swiftness  of  the  current  in  the  river,  and  the 
heaping  up  of  the  ice  on  the  shores,  prove  great  ob- 
stacles to  the  navigation,  and  the  pier  has  suffered 
repeated  injuries.  It  has  been  partly  reconstructed 
on  an  improved  plan.  An  inclined  plane  is  presented 
to  the  waves,  &c. 

BUFFALO,  3  miles  from  Black  Rock. 

Inns.     The  Eagle  Tavern,  &c. 

The  situation  of  this  village  is  remarkably  conve- 
nient and  agreeable,  occupying  a  long  hill  of  a  gentle 
ascent,  rising  from  the  immediate  vicinity  of  tie  lake. 
The  principal  street  runs  along  the  ridge  of  tie  hill, 
looking  out  upon  Lake  Erie  to  the  horizon,  and  is  or- 
namented with  several  fine  blocks  of  brick  stores  and 
handsome  dwelling-houses,  together  with  several  pub- 
lic buildings,  all  erected  since  the  burning  of  the  village 
by  the  British  in  1814,  as  well  as  the  buildings  in  the 
other  streets,  which  are  fast  increasing  eveiy  year.  In 
April  1814,  onl}^  one  house  was  standing  in  the  vil- 
lage, that  of  a  widow  in  the  upper  part  of  the  street. 

K  2 


no 


UOVTE   hliO^    NIAtiARA   TO   ALBANY. 


t 


A  hrge  piece  of  ^ound  has  been  left  in  tbe  middle  oi 
the  town  for  a  public  square,  where  several  roads 
meet,  and  which  it  is  intended  to  ornament  with  pub- 
lic edifices.  .A  walk  has  also  been  laid  out  on  the 
brow  of  the  hill  towards  the  lake.  This  is  called  the 
Terrace,  and  affords  a  charming  view  upon  the  lake, 
the  harbour,  and  the  canal,  to  Black  Rock.  In  1825, 
a  small  village  grew  up  below  the  terrace,  5  taverns 
beinff  built,  with  65  other  houses,  before  which  there 
was  out  one  house.  One  of  the  inns  will  accommodate 
300  persons.  The  lar^^est  store  in  the  state  is  believed 
to  be  one  of  these,  which  is  90  feet  by  70,  and  3  sto- 
ries high.  The  township  was  found  to  contain  6000 
inhabitants  that  year,  and  has  greatly  improved  since. 

The  harbour  of  Buffalo  is  singularly  fitted  by  nature 
for  the  junction  of  the  two  kinds  of  navigation  which 
are  here  brought  together;  the  entrance  from  the 
lake  being  sheltered  by  the  point  on  which  tbe  light- 
house is  erected,  and  the  two  small  rivers  which  here 
unite  thehr  waters,  affording  every  convenience  for 
landing  and  reshipping  goods.  The  shores  of  these 
are  very  bold,  and  they  are  connected  by  a  natural 
channel,  which  serves  the  purposes  of  a  basin,  as  well 
as  of  an  easy  communication  ;  and  as  the  canal  to 
Black  Rock  commences  close  by  it,  the  inland  trans- 
portation begins  without  more  ado.  Sixty  vessels 
traded  with  Buffalo  in  1827,  including  the  steamboats; 
of  which  number  7  were  Canadian.  The  steamboat 
Pioneer  plied  to  Dunkirk,  and  the  Chippewa  to  Chip- 
pewa. About  30,000  barrels  of  salt  were  shipped  for 
the  westward  during  that  year.  The  United  States 
are  improving  the  harbour. 

The  water  of  the  Creek  was  brought  into  the  vil- 
lage, in  1827,  from  above  the  falls,  by  a  canal  3  miles 
long,  which  will  supoly  a  head  of  water  for  machi- 
nery.   A  steam  founaty  is  in  operation  in  this  town. 

The  Canal  to  Bla/:k  Rock  is  dug  near  the  shore  of 
tbe  hke.  Tbe  Erie  Canal  is  supplied  with  water 
hence  to  the  Seneca  River,  from  Lake  Erie.    The  fir?t 


VOYA«E   UP    LAKK    EMI*:! 


ni 


part  ot  it  is  through  a  low,  sandy  level,  where  thr. 
excavations  were  much  impeded  by  the  water  which 
soaked  through  in  g^reat  abundance.  About  halt'  a 
mile  from  Bunalo,  the  workmen  hit  upon^a  bed  of  old 
half-decayed  tr6es,  which  was  duff  into  to  lljc  depth 
of  six  feet,  and  extended  about  naif  a  mile.  Man> 
branches  and  logs  were  discovered,  which  preserved 
all  tlie  grain  of  the  wood  ;  but  the  greater  part  was  a 
black  mass  of  matter,  which,  on  bem^  dried,  burned 
with  greater  readiness.  In  some  places,  ashes  and 
coals  were  found  ;  and  some  of  the  logs  appeared  t<» 
have  been  washed  and  rolled  by  the  water  of  the  lake 
before  they  were  buried. 

Cliatauque  Lake,  A  steamboat  of  50  tons  began  tu 
run  on  this  lake  in  1828.  It  performs  the  route  from 
Jamestown  to  Maysville  in  3  hours. 

'I^or  remarks  on  the  Erie  Canal  see  Albany,) 

VOYAGE  UP  LAKE  ERIE. 

At  Buffalo  opens  a  very  extensive  route,  for  those 
who  are  disposed  to  travel  still  fatther  westward. 
There  is  little  to  be  seen  along  either  shore  of  the 
lake,  which  would  reward  the  common  traveller  for 
the  tedium  of  a  long  ride  over  a  country  generally 
level,  or  for  the  inconveniences  he  would  experience 
from  want  of  public  accommodations,  and  even  the 
frequent  absence  of  settlements.  The  price  of  a  pas- 
sage to  Detroit  in  the  cabin  is  {15,  and  in  the  steerage, 
where  nothing  is  supplied  but  ship  room  and  access  to 
the  kitchen,  half  price.  The  follovving  are  the  stop- 
ping places  on  the  passage  to  Detroit,  with  their  dis- 
tances ;  and  steamboats  run  almost  every  day,  (See 
Olvio  Canal,  Index.) 

From  Buffelo  to  Erie, 90  miles 

Erie  to  Grand  River, 75 

Grand  River  to  Cleaveland,  ...  30 
Cleaveland  to  Sandusky,  ....  60 
Sanduskv  to  Detroit 75-TotaI  330 


11^2 


ROUTE    JkUM    ?«1A<;AKA    TO    ALUA.NV. 


The  United  States' government  are  improving  seve- 
ral of  these  harbours,  as  there  is  not  a  natural  one  be- 
tween Buffalo  and  Sandusky.  In  1827,  there  were 
475  arrivals  at  the  latter  port.  The  AmericaTi  Fur 
Company  bring  down  g260,000  to  $300,000  in  furs. 

The  steamboat  Pioneer  runs  from  Buffalo  to  Dun- 
kirk, connect'ng  with  the  stage  toaches  to  Cleave- 
land,  which  di/ide  there,  and  go  south  to  Woirester 
and  to  Newburffh,  and  west  to  Milan  and  Lower 
Sandusky.  At  Dunkirk  begins  a  portage  of  7  rallies  to 
Casdaga  lake,  and  the  waters  of  the  Ohio  river. 

Michigan  is  a  territory  fast  rising  in  population, 
wealth,  and  importance.  A  large  branch  of  the  tide  of 
emigration  from  the  eastern  states  and  New-York  has 
been  turned  in  that  direction,  and  still  further  uest, 
encouraged  by  the  judicious  system  adopted  by  the 
government  of  the  United  States,  in  selling  the  land 
at  reasonable  prices  for  cash.  Experience  has  proved, 
in  other  public  hnds,  the  difficulties  that  must  ever 
arise  from  credits  to  settlers,  even  with  nominally  high 
prices.  The  sober,  industrious,  and  frugal  can  gene- 
rally produce  or  borrow  money  enough  to  purchase  a 
small  farm  ;  and  then  they  have  many  encouragements 
to  exertion,  which  a  wretched  population  m  debt 
would  never  feel.  There  may  be  seen  a  state  of 
things  similar  to  that  witnessed  in  Ohio  twenty  or 
thirty  years  ago ;  and  in  that  length  of  time  it  is  pre- 
sumed that  changes  no  less  important  will  be  pre- 
sented in  Michigan. 

The  surface  and  soil  are  favourable  to  cultivation. 
There  is  a  succession  of  gentle  undulations,  gradually 
rising  towards  the  interior ;  and  the  regularity  of  the 
ground,  with  the  remarkably  open  nature  of  the  forests, 
it  is  said,  permit  carriages  to  travel  for  hundreds  of 
miles  without  meeting  any  obstacle.  It  has  been  pro- 
posed lo  avoid  the  long  circumnavigation  of  the  whole 
peninsula,  by  making  a  canal  across  the  neck. 

Green  Bay^  on  Lake  Huron,  is  interesting  as  a  posi- 
tion occupied  by  a  military  garrison,  and  the  seat  of  a 


lar^ 
ex« 
trii 
Inc 
pari 


ANCiENT    FOllTIFICATIOXS. 


113 


Ml 


Harge  number  of  Indians,  for  whose  improvement  some 
exertions  have  been  recently  made.  The  principal 
tribe  residing  there  are  the  Menominie,  or  nild  Rice 
Indians,  who  are  both  numerous  and  powerful,  and 
partly  civilized. 

The  Fox  river,  which  empties  into  Green  Bay,  flows 
through  a  very  fertile  country;  and  the  time  is  not 
very  tar  distant  when  the  head  waters  of  the  stream 
will  be  united  by  a  canal  with  the  Ouisconsin,  which 
flows  into  the  Mississippi.  The  climate  of  Green  Bay 
is  remarkably  healthful.  The  lead  mines  on  Fevre 
river  are  now  wrought  by  about  five  thousand  men. 

The  following  are  the  boundaries  of  the  proposed 
new  territory,  to  be  called  Huron :  from  the  north-east 
corner  of  the  state  of  Illinois,  northwardly,  down  the 
middle  of  Lake  Michigan,  to  the  "  Big  Fox  Island ;" 
and  thence,  due  north  to  the  Canada  line,  or  north- 
wardly, down  the  middle  of  the  lake,  and  through  the 
straits,  east  and  south  of  the  "  Bois  Blanc  Islana,"  to 
the  Canada  line. 

Ancient  Fortifications. 

On  Buffalo  Creek,  and  towards  Genesee  River  also, 
are  several  large  and  interesting  remnants  of  ancient 
fortifications  ;  but  as  they  lie  ofi"  the  road,  few  travel- 
lers will  visit  them.  They  appear  to  form  part  of  a 
great  chain  of  defensive  works  extending  from  the 
eastern  part  of  Lake  Ontario,  along  that  lake  and  Erie, 
down  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  rivers  to  Mexico.  Thii 
is  the  opinion  of  Mr.  Atwater,  of  Circleville,  Ohio, 
who  has  published  some  very  interesting  details, 
drawings,  &c.  connected  with  them,  in  his  "  Archae- 
ologia  Americana."  A  line  of  old  forts  extends  from 
Cataraugus  Creek,  60  miles,  along  the  shore  of  Lake 
Erie,  to  the  line  of  Pennsylvania.  They  are  on  the 
borders  of  creeks  and  old  bays,  although  now  from 
two  to  five  miles  distant  from  the  lake,  which  is  sup- 
posed to  have  retired  that  distance  since  thev  wpj'p 


i. 

ft  rt 
■I''. 

•i; 


114 


ROUTi:    rmm    ■SIAGAKA    to   AliiJAAk. 


built.    Another  similar  line  is  said  to  exist  in  the  reai 
of  them,  on  another  parallel  elevation. 

Much  curiosity  and  speculation  have  been  called 
forth  by  these  singular  monuments  of  antiquity.  Some 
regard  them  as  marks  of  a  civilized  people ;  others 
as  the  works  of  Indian  tribes.  Some  traces  of  a  tra- 
dition referring  thehi  to  the  latter,  are  said  to  h?ve 
been  lately  discovered. 

Seneca  Castle. — The  Seneca  nation  possess  a  lai^e 
and  valuahle  tract  of  land  adjoining-  Buffalo,  on  tne 
east,  and  they  have  two  villages  three  and  five  miles 
on  the  road.  The  Senecas  are  the  westernmost  tribe 
in  the  confederacy  of  the  Five  Nations,  and  have  al- 
ways held  a  conspicuous  rank  in  their  history.  They 
were  formerly  considered  the  most  numerous  and 
powerful  tribe,  and  preserved  this  superiority  until  the 
fatal  defeat  they  received  from  General  Schuyler,  in 
1778,  since  which  they  have  made  a  less  conspicuous 
figure. 

Besides  the  land  they  possess,  which  is  remarkable 
for  its  fertility,  the  nation  are  in  possession  of  a  large 
sura  in  the  United  States'  Bank  stock,  the  dividend  for 
which  they  receive  annually. 

The  traveller  will  observe  several  farms  under  a 
degree  of  cultivation,  and  may  meet  with  individuals 
who  conform  pretty  nearly  to  the  English  style  of 
dress,  and  have  introduced  some  of  our  customs  into 
their  houses.  The  greater  part  of  them,  however, 
speak  no  language  but  Indian. 

Stage  Road  from  Buffalo  to  Canandaigua. 

The  first  few  miles  of  this  road  present  very  little 
interest ;  15  or  20  m  iles  of  it  were  formerly  remarkable 
as  passing  over  an  old  causeway  of  logs.  The  logs 
made  the  travelling  rough  and  disagreeable ;  but  as 
thej^  are  gradually  covered  over  with  earth,  the  diffi- 
culties are  lessenmg  every  year.  To  those  who  are 
npt  accustorHed  to  a  country  so  new  and  wild  as  i\^y. 


■*■ 


fiJix\Eai:E  MEADOWS. 


U5 


u  word  or  two  may  not  be  amiss  on  the  manner  in 
which  roads  are  first  made  in  an  American  settlement. 
In  thick  forests,  the  surface  of  the  ground  is  covered 
to  the  depth  of  one  or  two  feet  with  the  roots  of  trees, 
which  are  extremely  difficult  to  be  removed,  and  are 
very  dangerous  for  horses  or  oxen  to  pass  over.  A  close 
layer  of  logs,  although  itself  sufficiently  rough,  forms 
a  much  safer  and  more  convenient  path,  and  is-  usually 
adopted  with  great  advantage.  There  is  another 
reason  for  it — the  elevation  of  the  road  above  the 
common  surface,  secures  it  from  being  overflowed  by 
the  water,  which  in  the  moist  seasons  of  the  year 
would  impede  the  travelling  in  low  and  marshy  places. 

Baiavia,  40  miles  from  Buffalo,  is  a  very  handsome 
village,  and  contains  the  residence  of  the  present  and 
former  agents  of  the  Holland  Land  Company,  (Messrs. 
Evans  and  Otto,)  as  well  as  the  county  buildings.* 

Leroy,  10  miles. 

[Springs.  In  Avon,  2|  miles  from  the  road  through 
that  village,  are  8  or  10  springs,  where  are  boarding 
houses.} 

The  Wadsn'orth  Faring  at  Geneseo,  contains  >out 
4000  acres,  about  1700  of  which  are  rich  alluvial  lr»nd 
on  the  banks  of  the  Genesee  river.  Various  branches 
of  agriculture  have  been  tried  on  this  fertile  tract  of 
coimtry ;  but  the  raising  of  sheep  has  been  found  the 
most  profitable,  and  the  farm  has  been  almost  entirely 
converted  into  mowing  fields  and  pastures.  The 
number  of  sheep,  in  1827,  was  computed  at  13,000. 
The  residence  of  the  proprietor  is  in  a  fine  and  spa- 
cious building,  in  a  commanding  situation;  and  the 
whole  aspect  of  the  farm  indicates  the  good  order  and 
method  with  which  it  is  Conducted.  Mr.  Rogers  has 
a  very  fine  farm  in  Moscow. 

The  Genesee  meddows  were  formerly  the  residence 
of  a  large  tribe  of  Indians  of  the  Seneca  nation ;  and 
when  Gen.  Sullivan  reached  thib  place,  in  his  march' 

*  Stage  coaches  run  from  Bofavia  to  Bocliestcr. 


ft 


ili> 


KOIJ'J'E    J'KOM    MAGAKA    iU   ALHAiS\  . 


through  the  country,  he  found  and  burnt  a  village  oi 
120  log  liouses,  on  the  second  bank,  which  had  oeen 
deserted  at  his  approach.  One  of  his  scouts  was  cut 
oft'  while  his  army  was  near  the  west  bank  of  the 
river,  and  only  one  man  escaped  ;  but  the  Indians 
constantly  fled  as  he  approached,  and  there  was  no 
%hting  in  all  this  western  part  of  the  state. 

The  remains  of  a  mammoth  were  dug  up  about 
half  a  mile  from  the  village  of  Geneseo  in  1825. 
There  were  8  teeth  and  grinders,  parts  of  a  tusk,  a 
Ihigli  bone  3  feet  long,  the  lower  bone  of  the  leg  8 
feet  G  inches,  &c.  They  lay  between  strata  of  vege- 
table mould  and  sand. 

West  Bloomfiddt  beyond  the  Genesee  river,  is  one 
of  the  finest  agricultural  townships  in  the  state,  and 
presents  a  succession  of  beautiful  farms,  tilled  with 
care  and  yielding  the  finest  crops.  Fruit  thrives  re- 
markably well  in  all  this  western  country,  as  the 
slightest  attention  to  the  orchards  will  sufficiently 
prove  ;  and  while  in  smoothness  and  neatness  the  fields 
rival  those  of  the  oldest  districts  farther  east,  the  or- 
chards exceed  them  in  luxuriance  and  product.  The 
black  apple  is  a  species  of  fruit  which  has  been  said 
to  be  peculiar  to  this  region. 

East  Blooiiifield  is  the  next  village  ;  and  the  general 
remarks  just  made,  may  with  justice  be  applied  to 
this  place  also. 

CANANDAIGUA. 

Inn,    Blossom's  Stage  House. 

This  is  one  of  the  finest  western  towns,  and  its  prin- 
cipal street  runs  along  the  ridge  of  a  commanding  hill, 
rising  from  the  north  end  of  Canandaicua  Lake.  It 
is  wide,  and  contains  an  academy,  and  many  hand- 
some houses,  particularly  that  of  the  late  Gideon 
Granger.  The  road,  in  passing  Canandaigu  Lake, 
commaDds  a  finer  view  than  on  any  of  the  other  lakes 
it  passes,  except  Skeneateles.  The  banks  are  high 
and  variegated,  and  at  the  distance  of  two  or  three* 


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UUK2il^C»   SVUiiNGS. 


117 


\niles,  rise  to  an  imposing  height,  and  add  a  great  de- 
gree of  beauty  to  the  scene.  A  number  of  gentle- 
men's seats  are  seen  along  the  western  bank ;  and  a 
little  way  off  in  the  lake  on  the  same  side,  is  a  small 
rocky  island,  where  the  Seneca  Indians  carried  all 
their  women,  children,  and  old  men,  when  Gen.  Sulli- 
van appeared  against  them. 

The  new  steamboat  Lady  of  the  Lake  began 
to  run  regularly  on  Canandaigua  Lake  in  1827  ;  and 
a  hotel  was  to  be  built  at  the  head  of  it.  It  is  on  the 
Annesley  plan — that  is,  built  entirely  of  boards  with- 
out the  use  of  timbers. — A  railroad  is  to  be  made  to 
the  Canal. 

Stage  coaches  go  to  Rochester  eveiy  day.     . 

BURNING  SPRINGS. 

Springs  of  water,  charged  with  inflammable  gas, 
are  quite  common  in  Bristol,  Middlesex,  and  Canan- 
daigua. 

The  gas  from  the  former  rises  through  fissures  of  the 
-late,  from  both  the  margin  and  the  bed  of  the  brook. 

Their  places  are  known  by  the  little  hillocks  of  a 
few  feet  in  diameter,  and  a  few  inches  high,  formed 
of  a  dark  bituminous  mould,  through  which  it  finds  its 
way  to  the  surface,  in  one  or  more  currents.  These 
currents  of  gas  may  be  set  on  fire,  and  will  burn  with 
a  steady  flame.  In  winter  they  form  openings  through 
the  snow,  and  being  set  on  fire,  exhibit  the  novel  and 
interesting  phenomenon  of  a  steady  and  lively  flame 
in  contact  with  nothing  but  snow.  In  very  cold  wea- 
ther, it  is  said,  tubes  of  ice  are  formed  round  these 
currents  of  ^as,  (probably  from  the  freezing  of  the 
water  contamed  in  it,)  which  sometimes  rise  to  the 
height  of  two  or  three  feet,  the  gas  issuing  from  their 
tops  ;  the  whole,  when  lighted  in  a  still  evening,  pre- 
senting an  appearance  even  more  beautiful  than  the 
former. 

From  3  pit  which  was  sunk  in  one  of  the  hillock?, 

J. 


F^ 


no 


ROtTE    FllOM    iMAGAKA    TO   ALilAM. 


f 


the  gas  was  conducted  through  bored  logs,  to  the  kitchen 
c>f  a  dwelling.  The  novelty  of  the  spectacle  attracted 
a  concourse  of  visiters,  so  great  that  the  proprietors 
found  it  expedient  to  convert  their  dwelling  into 
a  public  inn. 

The  road  between  Canandaigua  and  Geneva  passes 
Over  a  singular  tract  of  country,  the  form  of  which 
will  not  fail  to  be  remarked  by  an  observant  traveller. 
The  ground  gradually  rises  by  large  natural  terraces, 
or  steps,  for  about  half  the  distance,  and  descends  in 
the  same  nianner  on  the  other  side  to  Seneca  Lake. 
These  steps,  or  terraces,  appear  to  have  been  formed 
by  those  strong  currents  of  water  of  which  geologists 
speak,  which  at  some  ancient  period  of  time  have  evi- 
dently passed  over  many  tracts  of  country  in  different 
parts  of  the  world.  1  he  ridges  and  channels  thus 
formed  here  stretch  north  and  south,  frequently  to  a 
considerable  distance,  corresponding  both  in  form  and 
direction  with  the  numerous  lakes  which  are  found  in 
this  part  of  the  state.  Several  ancient  fortifications 
have  been  traced  here.  From  the  middle  ridge  the 
view  is  extensive ;  but  the  surrounding  country  is  of 
too  uniform  a  surface  to  present  any  remarkable  variety 
of  scenery* 

GENEVA. 

This  town  occupies  a  charming  situation  at  the  foot 
of  Seneca  Lake,  and  for  a  mile  alon^  its  western  bank, 
which  rises  to  a  considerable  elevation  above  the  sur- 
fjkce>  and  affords  room  for  a  broad  and  level  street. 
The  buildings  in  this  village  are  remarkably  neat  and 
handsome. 

^  A  college  has  lately  been  instituted  in  this  place. 
The  building  is  of  stone,  with  26  rooms  for  students,  a 
chapel,  and  library.  It  is  warmed  only  by  stove?. 
Rev.  J.  Adams  is  president. 

The  steamboat  Seneca  Chief,  in  1829,  ran  daily  to 
Jeffersonville,  (at  the  head  of  the  lake,)  and  back 
again,  oflfering  the  traveller  an  asrreenble  excursion 


GKNKVA. 


no 


Dresden  and  Ovid,  12  miles  from  Geneva,  are  op- 
posite each  otiier.  The  former  stands  at  the  outlet  of 
Crooked  Lake.  The  Penyan  descends  nearly  400 
feet,  affording  excellent  mill  seats.  South  from  this  is 
Ihe  former  abode  of  Jemima  Wilkinson. 

Strakie's  Point  is  6i  miles  south  of  llapelyea's  Ferry. 
The  shore  is  there  very  bold,  so  that  the  Seneca  Chief 
can  pass  within  a  few  feet  of  the  land.  Much  lumber 
is  exported  from  this  place,  brought  from  £ddystown, 
which  is  a  mile  inlana. 

Big  Stream  Point,  4  miles.  Here  is  a  fall  in  a  tri- 
butary of  this  beautiful  lake,  of  136  feet,  by  which 
several  mills  are  supplied. 

The  eastern  shore  is  generally  handsomely  culti- 
vated ;  but  near  the  head  of  the  lake,  on  the  western 
side,  about  15  miles  of  the  shore  is  covered  with  forest,. 
The  land  rises,  and  becomes  rough  and  billy. 

Hector'i  Falls,  3  miles  from  the  lake,  are  150  feet 
in  height,  and  supply  several  mills.  Jeffersonville  and 
Havana  are  two  villages  at  the  head  of  the  lake. 

[Travelling  southward  from  Geneva.  A  line  of  stage 
coaches  goes,  in  connexion  with  the  steamboat,  from 
Geneva,  every  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  via 
Bath,  Painted  Post,  Lawrenceville,  Willardsbuig,  Ca- 
nal Port  to  Trout  Run,  and  via  Elmira  and  Troy  to 
Trout  Run,  on  the  other  days  of  the  week — and  daily, 
(except  Sundays,)  from  Trout  Run  through  Williams- 
port,  Pennsborough,  Milton,  Northumberland,  Sunbury, 
Selinsgrove,  Liverpool  to  Harrisburg.  From  Hams- 
burg  a  line  runs  every  day  through  to  Philadelphia— 
and  one  daily,  (except  Sundays^)  to  Baltimore  and 
Washington  City — through  m[five  days.  Returns  in 
the  same  way.  At  Northumberland  it  mtersects  a  line 
that  runs  three  times  a  week  to  Wilkesbarre  :  at  Wil- 
liamsport,  a  line  that  runs  to  Bellefonte,  Alexandria, 
and  intersects  the  Pittsburg  line  :  at  Elmira  it  intersects 

line  running  to  Ithaca,  Owego  and  Montrose  :  at 
Bath,  a  line  to  Angelica  and  Ofean  Point,  and  one  to 
f),in«viile,  Gpne?ro,  Rorhepter,  Buffalo,  and  Niagara 


a 


HP 


120 


ROUTE    FK03I    DilAGAKA   TO   ALVAISV, 


Falls.  At  Geneva,  this  line  intersects  4  daily  line.« 
running  east  and  west,  and  also  3  daily  lines  running 
north  to  the  Erie  canaL 

The  journey  from  Geneva  or  Rochester  to  Baltimore, 
is  performed  by  this  line  in  five  days,  by  daylight, 
passing  through  a  fine,  healthy,  and  highly  cultivated 
country,  travelling  upwards  of  100  miles  on  the  beau- 
tiful banks  of  the  Susquehannah,  and  about  50  miles 
on  the  bank  of  the  Pennsylvania  canal.] 

Seneca  Lake  is  35  miles  long,  and  about  3  or  4  wide. 
Its  depth  is  unusually  great,  and  the  water  clear  and 
very  cold,  to  which  is  referred  the  scarcity  of  fish. 
There  is  a  remarkable  phenomenon  long  observed  by 
those  who  reside  near  it,  which  has  never  been  satis- 
factorily accounted  for.  The  water  has  a  regular  rise; 
and  fall  every  seven  years. 

The  Chemung  Canal  is  to  be  made  from  the  head  wa- 
ters of  this  lake  to  the  Chemung  river,  with  a  feeder. 

A  stage  coach  runs  froni  Geneva  up  the  east  side  of 
the  lake,  and  then  crosses  to  the  head  of  Cayuga  lake, 
to  the  village  of  Ithaca  ;  but  the  road  is  not  interesting, 
and  the  more  agreeable  mode  of  reaching  that  village 
is  by  taking  the  steamboat  at  Cayuga  bridge,  14  miles 
from  Geneva,  on  the  great  mail  route. 

The  Cayuga  and  Seneca  Canaly  which  was  com- 
pleted in  1828,  has  opened  boat  navigation  between 
these  lakes  and  the  Erie  canal,  and  a  packet  line  was 
to  run  to  Troy,  early  in  1829. 

The  Cayuga  and  Seneca  Canal  passes  through  Wa- 
terloo, from  Geneva  down  the  valley  of  Seneca  River 
to  Montezuma,  on  the  Erie  canal,  it  is  20  miles  and 
24  chains  in  length,  of  which  ten  miles  is  an  inde- 
pendent canal,  and  the  remainder  a  slack  water  navi- 
gation. It  has  7  locks,  being  73i  feet  lockage,  10 
bridges,  5  safety  gates,  5  dams,  6  culverts,  17  miles  of 
fence,  3  lock  houses,  and  1  collector's  office. 

Cayuga  Lake  is  40  miles  in  length,  and  generally 
about  2  in  breadth.  A  fine  bridge  is  built  across  il 
near  the  northern  end.  where  it  is  a  mile  wide.     Th(5 


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ITHACA   AND   OSWEGO    RAILIIOAD. 


1:^1 


f^teamboats  Telemachus  and  Experiment  ply  between 
Cayiigfa  bridj^e  and  Ithaca,  at  the  head  ot  the  lake. 
The  former  is  on  Annesley's  plan,  and  carries  only 
passengers.  The  l)e  Witt  Clinton  is  a  new  boat,  on 
the  same  plan  ;  100  feet  long,  with  three  cabins,  a 
promenade,  large  enough  to  accommodate  a  con- 
siderable number  of  passengers,  and  is  frequently 
crowded  with  parties  trom  the  neighbouring  countiy, 
as  well  as  travellers,  as  the  excursion  is  one  of  the 

fleasantest  that  can  be  taken  in  this  part  of  the  state, 
t  also  cciKiects  several  lines  of  stage  coaches,  which 
the  traveller  will  do  well  to  notice  if  he  wishes  to  ffo 
to  Catskill,  Newhurgi  Nezv-York,  or  New- Jersey ^  by 
the  most  direct  routes.  These  routes  will  be  noticed 
on  arriving  at  Ithaca. 

The  price  of  a  passage  in  the  steamboat  is  one 
dollar.  A  little  before  arriving  at  the  head  of  the  lake, 
a  beautiful  '^mterfall  is  seen  on  the  left  hand,  where  a 
stream  of  w  ^ter  flows  over  a  very  high  precipice  into 
a  deep  glen,  and  forces  its  way  along,  turning  several 
valuable  mills  in  its  course.  The  landing  place  is 
about  three  miles  from  the  village  of  Ithaca,  but  lumber 
boats  can  pass  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  inlet,  and 
proceed  up  to  the  street. 

The  village  of  Ithaca  is  neat  and  flourishing.  Here 
centre  three  roads  to  Catskilly  Newburg^  and  New- 
York.  The  first  leads  nearly  in  a  direct  line  to  the 
Hudson  River,  the  second  passes  the  Great  Bend  of 
the  Delaware,  and  the  third  furnishes  daily  the  shortest 
route  to  New- York. 

The  Cascade.  This  beautiful  and  romantic  scene, 
about  3  miles  from  the  village,  is  one  of  the  most  pic- 
turesque that  can  be  imagined.  The  height  and  so- 
lemnity of  the  surrounding  rocks,  the  darkness  of  their 
shadows,  and  the  beauty  of  the  sparkling  soray,  unite 
to  produce  an  impression  of  pleasure  wnich  is  rarely 
experienced  at  the  sight  of  any  scene,  however  extra- 
ordinary for  beauty  or  sublimity.  The  Fall  river  de- 
5«cends  438  feet  in  a  mile.    The  Great  Fall  is  1 16  feetv 

L2 


VZ!Z 


ROUTli:    FliOH    I\lAliAK  \    TO    ALUiVKV. 


The  other  lulls  in  this  vicinity  are  the  Casca(hll.u 
Tauqkanic,  (262  feet,)  Six  Mile  creek,  l!uttermilk,  kv. 

Ithaca  ana  Osn^effo  llailroad.  The  lef(islature,  iu 
18'JH,  passed  an  act  authori/inj;  the  const rucl ion  of  u 
railroad  from  this  place  to  the  Susquchannah  river  at 
Oswej^o.  The  distance  is  about  .10  miles  ;  the  expense 
is  estimated  at  $lw>(M>0(>,  or  $1,000  a  mile.  This  is 
one-tourth  moR^  than  the  Mauch  ('hunk  railway  cost, 
and  the  sa  Me  price  as  that  estimated  for  the  Hudson 
and  Delaware  Kailvvay,  the  rails  for  which  have  been 
imported  from  Kngland.  The  soil  and  surface  are 
favourable ;  labour  and  materials  cheap  ;  and  the 
amount  of  pmduce  which  would  pass  that  way  from 
the  neighbouring  country,  is  estimated  at  12,000  tons 
annually,  which  alone  would  oay  16  per  cent,  on  the 
cost.  To  this  ought  to  be  adaed  about  10,000  tons  of 
plaster  and  salt.  The  market  lor  lumber  is  best  at 
New-Y^ork.  500  tons  of  plaster  and  salt  are  now 
annually  transported  fmm  Ithaca  to  Oswego  by  land, 
and  sent  down  the  Susquehani^ah. 

In  consequence  of  the  earlier  opening  of  navigation 
on  the  Susq^uehannah,  in  tiie  spring,  than  on  the  Eric 
canal,  and  its  beinj;  closed  later  in  the  fall,  ^reat  ad- 
vantages, it  is  thought,  would  be  obtained  by  Balti- 
more ;  and  even  the  fact  that  the  navigation  is  longer 
free  on  the  western  than  the  eastern  part  of  that  canal 
every  year,  would  probably  divert  a  considerable 
amount'  of  transportation  to  this  route,  it  is  stated 
that  the  freight  of  a  barrel  of  whiskey  or  pork  from 
Ithaca  to  Baltimore,  would  be  only  92  cents  ;  while 
it  is  $1  19  to  New- York  by  the  Erie  canal. 

T%e  Cayuga  and  Siisquehannah  Canal.  The  route 
proposed  is  from  (^ayuga  lake,  near  the  mouth  of 
Cascadilla,  through  Ithaca,  along  Mud  Creek  and  the 
valley  of  the  Oswego,  to  the  Susquehannah.  The 
anjount  of  lockage  is  760  feet ;  the  distance  31  miles  ; 
and  the  estimated  expense  r>>i0,000  dollars. 

Auburn  is  another  beautiful  village,  and  merits  the 
name  it  h^s  borrowed  from  Gol&mith's  charmins- 


V\ 

111 

t( 
'11 

A 


*iTATE    rUlHUN. 


IkiJ^ 


)>oiiUy.  It  is  unfortunately  placed  at  sonic  distance 
lioni  tlie  lake,  and  therefore  is  deprived  of  the  pic- 
turesque character  which  it  rrught  have  enioved. 
There  is  a  Theological  Seminary  in  Auburn,  which  has  a 
^ood  number  of  students.  There  are  several  handsome 
public  buildings  in  this  place,  but  the  most  important 
j.^  the 

State  Prison. 

This  institution,  having  been  managed  by  Mr.  Lynds, 
and  established  on  his  system,  so  excelfent,  so  cele- 
brated, and  with  remarkable  success,  merits  particular 
notice. 

The  old  Auburn  prison  was  built  in  1817,  and  cost 
about  $300^000  ;  it  is  constructed  upon  the  plan  of  a 
hollow  square,  inclosed  by  a  wall  of  2000  feet  m  extent, 
being  500  feet  on  each  side,  and,  for  the  most  part,  35 
feet  in  height.  The  north  wing  of  the  building  diflfers 
very  much  in  its  construction  from  any  building  of  the 
kind,  and  the  use  of  which  is  conceived  to  be  one  oi 
the  greatest  improvements  in  prisons,  and  one  of  the 
best  aids  to  prison  discipline,  which  have  been  any 
where  made.  The  workshops  are  bi'ilt  against  the 
inside  of  the  outer  wall,  fronting  towards  the  ^ard, 
I'rom  which  every  shop  is  visible,  forming  a  contmued 
range  of  940  feet.  With  such  alterations  as  it  may 
undergo,  it  can  be  made  to  hold  1100  convicts.  At 
the  close  of  1829,  it  contained  639. 

"  The  new  building  contains  400  cells,  and  covers  only 
^06  by  46  feet  of  ground.  There  are  5  stories  of  cells, 
each  containing  eighty  in  two  parallel  lines,  divided 
in  the  middle  by  a  wall  two  feet  thick.  The  walls 
between  the  cells  are  one  foot  thick.  The  ce\L 
are  7  feet  long,  7  high,  and  3|  wide,  intended  to  re- 
ceive only  one  convict  in  each.  Each  cell  has  a  ven~ 
tilator  ext(  tiding  to  the  roof,  and  is  so  constructed  in 
icont,  that  the  prisoners  can  neither  converse  or  make 
signs  to  each  other.     The  area  aromid  the  rell«  is  fpn 


124 


ROUTE   FROM    IN'IA^GARA  TO   ALBAK-t. 


feet  wide  and  open  to  the  roof,  which  covers  the  galle- 
ries of  the  several  stories.  Besides  the  moral  benefit 
arising^  from  keeping  the  prisoners  separate,  it  unites 
that  of  economy  and  security.  From  the  construction  of 
the  prison, 5  small  stoves,6  large  and  12  small  lamps,  all 
out  of  reach  of  the  convicts,  afford  heat  and  light  to  555 
cells  ;  and  one  sentinel  is  sufficient  to  400  prisoners. 

The  discipline  only  requires  to  be  seen  to  be  duly 
appreciated.  The  conduct  of  the  prisoners  while  at 
their  labour,  and  their  quietness  under  the  privations 
of  the  prison,  prove  that  the  discipline  is  complete 
and  effective  ;  and  the  main  cause  of  the  order  and 
decorum  thus  observed,  is,  that  in  all  matters  of  disci- 
pline, there  is  but  one  head  or  principal." 

Minute  observations  on  the  comparative  labour  of 
a  free  person  and  a  convict  show  that  the  latter  does 
not  accomplish  as  much  in  a  day  as  the  former.  In 
this  prison,  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Lynds,  (row 
superintendent  of  the  Singsing  prison,)  the  great  system 
of  reformation  in  discipline  commenced. 

The  pardoning  power  is  now  exercised  with  great 
caution  by  the  executive  ;  for  perhaps  no  circumstance 
has  so  much  contributed  to  do  away  the  terrors  of 
punishment  as  the  facilities  afforded  ihe  worst  part  of 
our  species  in  obtaining  a  pardon. 

Ancient  Fortifications.    There  are  some  remains  of 
ancient  fortifications  in  the  vicinity  of  this  place,  as 
well  as  in  the  neighbouring  towns  of  Camillus,  Onon- 
daga, and  Pompey. 

If  the  traveller  should  wish  to  take  the  canal,  a 
stage  coach  goes  every  day  to  Weed's  Basin,  8  miles, 
and  carries  passengers  for  50  cents,  to  meet  the  canal 
boats,  which  pass  at  stated  periods. 

FROM  AUBURN  TO  SYRACUSE, 

By  the  Canal,  34  miles. 


(Stage  coach  to  Weed's  Basin,) 
Jordan  village,  in  Camillus  township^ 


8  miles* 


FKOM  SYKACUSE   TO   UTICAr    •  1 2r> 

A  proposition  has  been  made  for  a  canal  from 
Jordan  to  Homer,  on  the  Susquehannah, 
which  has  been  found  practicable.  The  dis- 
tance is  34  miles,  of  which,  only  14  will  re- 
quire to  be  dug. 

Canton,  (half-way  village  between  Buffalo  and 
Albany,  179  miles  from  the  former,  and  183 
from  the  latter,) 6  miles. 

Geddes  village,  (with  salt  works,)      .    .      12 

Syracuse, 2 

By  the  Road,  28  miles, 

Skeneateles, 8 

Marcellus,       6 

Onondaga, 10 

Syracuse, 4  • 

Syracuse.  For  a  description  of  this  place,  as  well 
as  of  Salina,  the  Salt  Springs  and  Salt  Manufactories , 
see  page  69. 

Although  the  routes  east  of  Syracuse,  both  by  the 
canal  and  by  the  road,  are  given  in  other  places,  and 
although  they  may  be  traced  on  the  maps,  it  may 
perhaps  be  convenient  to  have  them  repeated  in  the 
reversed  order,  for  travellers  going  towards  Albany. 
(For  places  see  Index.) 

FROM  SYRACUSE  TO  UTICA, 

By  the  Canal,  61  miles. 

Manlius  Landing,* 9 

Chitteningo  Creek, 8 

At  Chitteningo  is  an  Academy  where  some  of 
the  higher  branches  are  taught.  (A  curious 
petrified  tree  near  this  place,  a  few  steps 
from  the  canal,  was  found  with  many  of  its 
branches.) 

*  About  20  yards  from  the  canal,  Gypsmn  Oilasiter  of  Parish  N  oh 

t.ijrti'il  in  utfis^ris  of  frniu  1  to  lOfi  toti«. 


I'^IQ         llOUTE   FEOM  MAGAUA   TO  ALBANY. 

Canastota  village  and  basin,  ......  8  miles. 

Oneida  creek, ,    .    .    «    .  5 

Wood  creek 13 

Rome,  * 3 

Oriskany  village,      .........  8 

Whitesborougn,  ..........  3 

Utica, ,    .  4 

By  the  Road,  48  miles, 

Derne, 3 

Manlius, 3 

Sullivan, 9 

Vernon, 11 

Westmoreland, 6 

Nevtr-Hartford,    .     .     .     .     ....     .     .7 

Utica, 4 

For  Utica,  Hamilton  College,  and  Trenton  Falls,  see 
page  62. 

FROM  UTICA  TO  SCHENECTADY, 

By  ike  Canal,  79^  tfiiles. 

Lock,  No.  63  (end  of  the  long  level,  which 
begins  westward  at  Salina,  and  extends  to 
this  place,  69^  miles,  without  a  lock,)   .     .  9 
Bridge  over  the  Mohawk,  and  Herkimer  vil- 
la&re    .............fs 

Little  Falls,     ...'..'.!..*.!  8 
Fall  Hill,  a  mountain  on  the  right,  518  feet 
higher  than  the  canal,  712  above  high  water      ^ 
in  the  Hudson  River,  and  about  145  above 

Lake  Erie, 1 

Old  Mohawk  Castle, 5 

Fort  Plain, 9i 

Canajobarie, 4 

A  railway  has  been  proposed,  to  run  hence 
to  Catskill 60 


J'lio3I   BCHENECTADY    TO  ALBAKl".  127 

Anthony's  Nose,  .    .    .^ Smiles. 

(This  scene  is  represented  in  the  plate  from  this 
side.  The  bluff  on  the  right  is  Anthony's  Nose,  on  the 
top  of  which  a  remarkable  cavern  opens,  extending 
further  down  than  it  has  ever  been  explored.) 

Schoharie  Creek, 11 

Amsterdam  Village,  (across  the  river,)    .    .  5 

Flint  Hill,  .    .    :    .^ 6 

Rotterdam  Flats, 8 

Schenectady, 3 

Road  to  Many,  15i  miles.  Numerous  coaches 
go  every  day.    A  railroad  is  to  be  constructed. 

Road  to  ballston  and  Saratoga.  Both  these  roads 
offer  the  shortest  and  most  expeditious  communication 
with  the  places  to  which  they  conduct,  and  if  the  tra- 
veller should  be  in  pressing  haste,  he  should  avail 
himself  of  them. 

To  travellers  of  leisure  and  taste,  however,  the  canal 
boats  are  recommended  to  the  Mohawk  bridge,  al- 
though they  are  liable  to  many  delays  at  the  numerous 
locks  along  this  difficult  but  interesting  part  of  the  canal. 

FROM  SCHENECTADY  TO  ALBANY, 

By  the  Canal,  28 i  miles, 

Alexander's  Bridge,  (on  the  turnpike  road  to 
Albany  and  Boston — an  interesting  scene,)  4i 

Upper  Aqueduct,  (on  which  the  canal  crosses 
the  Mohawk,) ,     .    i 

The  Young  Engineer,  a  rock  on  the  right,  so 
called,  where  the  cutting  is  the  deepest  on 
the  whole  route,  viz.  32  feet, 4 

Wat  Hoix  Gap, 5i 

(A  natural  channel,  through  which  the  canal  is  led 

more   than  200  yards.     The   rocks  are  graywacke 

«late.     In  the  river  is  the  Wat  Hoix  Rapid,  which  the 

Indians  called   the   Evil   Spirit,  nnd  sometimes  the 

White  Horse.) 


■.'•;;a 


1.^11         UOXjTE   from   NIAGAltA    TO   ALHA^il. 

Lower  Aqueduct,  1 188  feet  lon^,  on  which  the 
canal  crosses  the  Mohawk  again,  on  24  stone 

abutments  and  piers, 2i  m\\e^> 

The  tour  Locks,  8  feet  each,  and  Cohoes  Falls,  2 

The  two  Locks,  9  feet  each, f 

The  three   Locks,  and  the  Cohoes  Bridge 

over  the  Mohawk, i 

(Hence  to  Waterford,  on  the  road  to  Ballston,  Sara- 
toga, &c.  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  where  stage 
coaches  are  continually  passing  in  the  visiting  season. 
By  leaving  the  boat  here,  or  a  little  below,  where  the 
canal  meets  the  road,  a  seat  may  frequently  be  found, 
in  a  passing  coach,  to  Waterford  or  the  Sprinajs ;  or 
some  may  prefer  to  take  a  boat  on  the  Northern  Canal. 
which  is  close  at  hand.  We  shall  take  up  the  land 
route  after  giving  the  few  remaining  objects  on  the 
way  to  Albany,  and  referring  the  reader  to  page  39  for 
a  description  of  that  city.) 
The  Junction,  where  the  Northern  Canal, 
from  Lake  Champlain  meets  the  Erie  Canal,    h 

West  Troy, 1 

(Here  is  a  cluster  of  buildings  about  the  basin:"; 
where  the  Troy  boats  lie.  The  Lift  Lock  has  been 
before  described.  The  dam  across  the  Mohawk  will 
afiford  an  easy  communication  between  the  canal  and 
Troy,  which  is  seen  on  the  opposite  side.  A  good 
horse  ferryboat  plies  below.) 

United  States' Arsenal, 1 

The  Manor  House  of  Gen.  Van  Rensselaer, 

called  Rensselaerwyck, & 

Albany, I 


UATERFOKli. 


ROUTE  TO  THE  SPRlxNGf . 

[For  the  Road  and  Canal  between  Albany  and  Wa- 
lerford,  see  page  4*7,  and  onward.] 

WATERFORD. 

This  tillage  is  situated  on  the  western  side  oF  the 
Hudson,  across  which  the  communication  is  convenient 
by  means  of  the  first  bridge  we  have  seen  over  this 
river.  Lansingburgh  stands  opposite,  and  is  a  place 
of  considerable  size.  The  streets  of  Waterford  are 
wide,  regular,  and  handsomely  built.  Some  of  the 
private  houses  are  remarkable  for  their  neatness. 
There  are  numerous  rocky  islands  with  precipitous 
sides,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mohawk  River,  which  are 
seen  at  a  little  distance  below  the  bridge.  The  boats 
on  the  Champlain  Canal  enter  the  Mohawk  in  full  view 
of  them,  through  guard  locks»  and  are  poled  across  ; 
the  current  being  stopped  by  a  dam.  During  the  warm 
season  of  the  year,  Waterford  is  a  great  thoroughfare, 
lying  on  two  roads  to  Albany,  as  well  as  in  the  way 
to  both  Ballston  and  Saratoga  Springs,  Lake  George, 
&c.  It  is  21 2  miles  to  Ballston  Springs,  and  24  to 
Saratoga. 

The  approach  to  the  village  from  the  south-west,  by 
the  canal  and  the  road,  is  uncommonly  beautiful,  it 
lies  quite  below  you,  with  a  little  meadow  in  front, 
bounded  by  the  canal  and  the  Hudson,  its  white  houses 
mingled  with  fine  trees,  and  Diamond  Hill  rising  be- 
hind, with  its  sides  half  cultivated,  and  half  covered 
with  woods. 

A  few  chrystals  are  found  on  Diamond  Hill. 

Inn.     Demarest's  Stage  House. 

The  shortest  road  from  Waterford  to  Ballston 
Springs  is  through  JVewtown,  18^  miles.     It  passes 

over  higher  land  than  that  through  Mechanicville,  and 

M 


uo 


ROUTE   TO   TlliJ   Sl»lllXGfr. 


perhaps  ia  not  more  sandy,  but  is  not  furnished  with 
stage  coaches.  The  usual  road  will  be  given  afterward. 
On  leaving  Waterford  it  verges  to  the  west,  and 
rises  to  an  ^evation  of  considerable  height,  which 
affords  a  view  towards  the  south  over  a  charming 
piece  of  country  :  the  high,  half-cultivated  range  of 
hills,  which  extend  some  miles  down  the  Hudson  in 
the  rear  of  Lansingburgh  and  Troy,  together  with  a 
broad  strip  of  land  on  each  side  of  the  river,  including 
the  tract  on  the  west  bank,  divided  by  parts  of  the 
Champlain  and  Erie  canals,  and  the  mouth  of  the 
Mohawk  river.  From  two  miles  further  on.  Saddle 
Mountain  appears  in  view  in  the  east,  with  a  single 

Seak  more  in  the  north,  and  at  a  still  greater  distance, 
[uch  of  this  road  is  sandy,  and  a  great  deal  of  wheat 
and  clover  is  cultivated. 

J^ewtoTtmy  3i  miles  from  Waterford. 

Half  Mom^  4.  From  this  place,  the  Catskill  Moun- 
tains are  plainly  visible  in  clear  weather. 

Second  Inn  in  Half  Moon,  4. 

About  3  miles  beyond  this  place,  the  view  open?t 
and  shows  that  the  traveller  is  in  a  kind  of  amphi- 
theatre :  the  Greenfield  Mountains  in  the  west  stretch- 
ing far  away  towards  the  north,  and  the  Vermont 
mountains  in  the  east,  which  seem  to  approach  them 
as  they  retire,  with  several  fine  and  prominent  peaks, 

Particularly  one  which  is  about  three  mrles  beyond 
lennington,  Vt.,  famous  for  the  defeat  of  Col.  Baum, 
in  the  Revolution.  Afterward  the  road  passes  near 
Ballston  village,  but  without  affording  a  sight  of  it. 
The  Springs^  being  situated  in  a  little  valley,  two 
miles  beyond,  the  first  intimation  you  have  of  your 
approach  is  the  sight  of  several  tall  evergreens,  and  a 
small  pleasure  house  on  the  top  of  a  sharp  hill,  in  the 
rear  ot  Aldridge's  boarding-house. 


STILL  WATEK. 


i:n 


From  Waterford  to  the  Spritsw,  bit  Me- 

chanicville. 

This  is  the  usual  road,  but  oflfers  few  objects  of 
interest. 

Mechanicvillei  or  the  Borough,  Sh  miles  from  Wa- 
terford. Here  the  coaches  generally  stop  for  breakfast 
or  dinner.  Near  at  hand  is  a  Cotton  Manufactory, 
whence  the  place  derives  its  former  name. 

Dunning'Street. — Here  is  a  little  villag:e,  at  which 
the  road  turns  off  west  for  (he  Springs.  About  a  mile 
south  of  it  we  cross  the  Northern  canal. 

[Stillwater  is  3  miles  above,  and  4  miles  beyond  that 
is  Smith's  Tavern,,  where  those  will  stop  who  wish  to 
visit  the  battle  ground,  at  Bemis's  Heights.] 

Although  the  great  crowd  of  travellers  on  this  road 
will  take  the  route  to  Ballston  or  Saratoga,  yet  as  they 
will  find  few  objects  of  any  interest,  it  may  be  proper 
to  introduce,  in  this  place,  an  account  of  the  expedition 
of  Gen.  Burgoyne,  and  the  battle  of  Bemis's  Heights, 
often  known  by  the  name  of  the  battle  of  Saratoga ; 
as  we  are  within  a  few  miles  of  the  field. 

Stillwater  takes  its  name  from  the  smoothness  and 
quietness  of  the  Hudson,  which  there  spreads  out  over 
a  broad  surface,  and  hardly  shows  any  appearance  of 
a  current.  It  is  the  place  to  which  Gen.  Schuyler 
retreated  at  the  approach  of  Gen.  Burgoyne,  after 
removing  all  the  stores,  driving  away  the  cattle,  and 
throwing  all  possible  obstacles  in  his  way  ;  afterward 
retiring  to  the  island  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mohawk : 
and  through  this  place,  Gen.  Gates,  who  soon  after 
succeeded  him  in  the  command,  marched  up  from 
Half  Moon  to  take  position  on  Bemis's  Heights. 

The  reader  is  referred  to  the  Maps,  to  observe  the 
importance  of  the  tract  of  country  which  lies  along 
the  route  we  have  just  entered  upon.    From  Canada 


132 


ROUTE   TO  THE   SPRlNt^. 


to  the  head  of  Lake  Champlain  there  is  an  unintei- 
lupted  water  communication,  by  which  troops  and 
every  thing  necessary  to  an  army  may  be  transported 
with  the  utmost  facility.  A  short  land  carriage  reaches 
Lake  George.  Wood  Creek,  at  the  south  end  of 
Champlain,  is  navigable  in  boats  to  Fort  Anne,  which 
is  only  9  miles  distant  from  Fort  Edward,  on  Hudson 
river,  whence  the  navigation  is  open  to  New-York. 
Here  have  consequently  been  many  of  the  most  im- 
portant miiilary  operations  which  have  ever  been 
carried  on  in  the  United  States.  The  first  battle 
within  this  region,  of  which  history  gives  any  account, 
■was  fought  between  the  French  and  the  Five  Nations 
of  Indians,  soon  after  the  settlement  of  Canada,  when 
the  latter  first  learned  the  terrible  effect  of  gunpowder, 
and  began,  to  flee  from  the  approach  of  cI  ization. 
In  the  numerous  expeditions  which  at  subsequent  pe- 
riods were  undertaken  by  the  British  against  Canada, 
this  route  was  taken  in  the  attack,  and  not  unfrequently 
in  the  retreat.  The  important  events  of  the  war  of 
1735  were  almost  confined  to  this  region ;  and  the 
Revolution  and  the  last  war  with  England  produced 
scenes  which  will  be  touched  upon  in  their  places. 

The  first  period  to  which  we  shall  refer,  is  that  of 
the  Revolution ;  and  the  first  scene,  that  of  the  battle 
of  Saratoga,  or  Bemis's  Heights,  towards  which  we  are 
fast  approaching. 

"  I  could  here,"  says  Dr.  Dwight,  "  almost  forget  that 
Arnold  became  a  traitor  to  his  countrj,  and  satisfy 
myself  with  recollecting,  that  to  his  invincible  gal- 
lantry, and  that  of  the  brave  officers  and  soldiers  whom 
he  led,  my  country  was,  under  God,  indebted,  in  a 
prime  degree,  for  Lier  independence,  and  all  its  con- 
sequent blessings.  I  should  think  an  American,  par- 
ticularly an  inhabitant  of  New-England  or  New-York, 
little  to  be  envied,  whose  patriotism  did  not  gain  force 
upon  the  heights  of  Stillwater,  or  the  plains  of  Sara- 
toga. These  scenes  I  have  examined :  the  former 
5vith  solemnity  and  awe,  the  latter  with  ardour  and 


BURGOYNE  S  EXPEDITION. 


133 


t 


admiration,  and  both  with  enthusiasm  and  rapture. 
Here  i  have  remembered,  and  here  it  was  impossible 
not  to  remember,  that  on  this  very  spot  a  controversy 
was  decided,  upon  which  hung  the  liberty  an<i  happi- 
ness of  a  nation  tiestined  one  day  to  fill  a  continent ; 
and  of  its  descendants,  who  will  probably  hereafter 
outnumber  the  inhabitants  of  Europe." 

BUHGOYNE'S  EXPEDITION. 

Gen.  Burgoyne*  was  appointed  Governor  of  Canada, 
in  1777,  to  suc<  eed  Sir  Guy  Carlton.  He  arrived  at 
Quebec  in  May,  and  reached  Crown  Point  June  20th. 
Gen.  Phillips  was  sent  to  Ticonderoga  with  the  British 

*  General  Burgoyne. — {From  an  English  fVurk.)—\\  ia  curious,  that 
a  man  of  such  celebrity  aa  a  writer,  a  seiiaiur,  and  an  officer,  as  liie  late 
Lieut.  John  Burgoyne,  should  be  found  among  the  nuinbi'r  of  those  of 
whose  youthful  days  no  memorial  has  been  preserved.  Neither  the 
time,  place,  nor  circumstances  of  his  birth  are  known.  Even  his  pa* 
rentage  is  doubtful.  He  is  said,  but  u^iou  what  authority  it  does  not 
appear,  to  have  been  a  natural  son  of  that  Lord  Biugiy.  who  di«d  at  an 
advanced  age  in  1774.  That  he  had  the  advantage  of  a  liberal  educa- 
tion, and  early  intercourse  with  poli^^tled  society,  id  sufHciently  «-vident 
from  hw  writings;  and  it  is  protiable  thai  h«^  vviis  early  devoted  to  the 
profijssion  of  arms,  fr>r  on  the  10.  h  of  May,  1759,  he  was  raised  to  the 
rank  of  Lieut.  Colonel,  and  in  tiie  August  of  the  ensuuisr  year,  he  was 
appointed  Lieut.  Col.  (Joinmandant  of  the  16tii  Lighc  Dragoons.  His 
after  services  at  different  periods,  in  Spain,  Portugal,  and  America,  are 
all  well  kn^>wn,  esiteciiilly  the  unfortunate  termination  of  his  military 
career  at  Saratoga,  which,  though  it  tarnished  not  bis  honour,  cast  a 
shade  over  his  brow,  (!ver  a'lerwaid  conspicuous  to  the  physiognomical 
eye.  He  made,  on  Ciiriain  occasionH,  no  ordinary  Asure  in  Parliatnent. 
He  moved  in  the  first  circles,  and  married  Lady  Charlotte  Stanley,  a 
daughter  of  the  Earl  of  Derby ;  and  yet  we  know  not  who  and  wuat  he 
originally  was.  He  was  th*^  author  of  tour  successful  dramas:  the 
Maid  of  the  Oak.  the  Lord  of  the  Manor,  Richard  Coeur  ite  T.ion,  and 
the  comedy  of  the  Heiress;  and  yet  the  curiosity  of  hia  biographer,  ^ven 
in  this  anecdote-deal  iuL'  and  memoir-sifting  agtN  cannot  trace  nin  origin 
or  the  scenes  of  his  education.  The  tale  of  the  Lord  of  the  Manor 
seems,  in  some  de^iiree,  lo  have  been  disguised  in  the  modification  of  the 
character  and  circumstances  by  the  incident  of  his  own  matrimonial 
connexi(m:  for  his  was  a  claiidestine  and  unauthorized  marriage,  at  a 
time  when  lie  held  only  a  subaltern's  commission  in  tUo  array ;  and  is 
said  to  have  excited  at  first  the  resentment  of  the  lady's  father  to  such  a 
degree,  that  he  declared  his  resolution  never  to  ad: nit  the  offenders  into 
his  presence,  though,  in  process  of  time,  the  angei  of  the  Earl  subsided, 
a  reconciliation  was  eff<'cted,  and  was  succeeded  by  a  warm  and  laiii'ic 
attachment.    It  is  probable,  also,  that  the  memory  of  his  ladv,  who  died 

M  2 


hA 


UOUT£   TO  TU£>  SPBl^'US. 


light  wing ;  and  the  outposts  and  the  fort  were  Sfuc- 
cessively  abandoned  by  the  Americans.  The  news 
of  the  evacuation  of  this  place  was  p.  most  disheart- 
ening  piece  of  intelligence  to  the  country.  It  had 
been  confidently  hoped  that  an  effectual  resistance 
would  there  be  o^ered  to  a  force  which  threatened  the 
liberty  of  America ;  or  at  all  events,  that  an  heroic 
stand  would  be  made  at  that  important  post,  which 
had  so  long  been  regarded  as  an  almost  impregnable 
fortress. 

During  his  delay,  Gen.  Schuyler  obstructed  the 
channel  of  Wood  creek,  removed  every  thing  valuable 
from  the  country,  and  took  the  stores  from  Fort  George 
to  Fort  Edward  :  sending  tor  regular  troops,  and  calling 
for  the  militia  of^  the  neighbouring  states,  both  which 
were  supplied.  Gen.  Arnold  and  Col.  Mojrgan  joined 
him  with  a  body  of  riflemen,  and  Gen.  Lincoln  with 
the  New-£ngland  militia ;  and  he  fell  back  to  Sara- 
toga and  Stillwater. 

t 

Battle  of  Bennington.* 


While  these  preparations  were  making  for  a  general 
engagement,  the  battle  ot  Bennington  occurred,  which 
must  now  be  introduced  to  preserve  the  order  of  time. 
Being  in  want  of  provisions,  Gen.  Burgoyne  had  de- 

in  1776,  at  Kensington  Palace,  during  his  absence  in  America,  is  em- 
halnicd  by  the  aflectionatc  regrets  of  the  General,  in  that  beautiful  air 
ill  the  first  act  of  that  opera: 

"  Encompassed  in  an  angel's  frame, 
An  angel's  virtues  lay : 
Too  soon  did  heaven  assert  the  claim, 
And  call  its  own  away.  v    ' 

My  Anna's  vi^orth,  my  Anna's  charms, 

Must  never  more  return ! 
What  now  shall  fill  these  widow'd  arms  1 

Ah,  me !  my  Anna's  urn !" 

*  In  Bennington  is  an  iron  mine,  which  produces  excellent.orc*    V^ 
good  pig  iron  ts  forged  ihr^p.'. 


UATTLE    OF   SABATOOA. 


135 


bpatched  Lt.  Col.  Baum,  with  his  Hessians,  to  seize  the 

Eublic  stores  at  Bennington.  He  was  supported  by 
it.  Col.  Brechman,  who  stopped  at  Baten  Kill.  Brig. 
Gen.  Stark  with  the  New-Hampshire  troops,  joined  by 
Col.  Warner,  attacked  Col  Baum  at  the  Wallomsack 
river,  where  they  were  encamped,  July  16th,  (1777,) 
and  in  two  hours,  forced  their  works,  and  completely 
defeated  them.  Col.  Warner  be^an  the  attack  on  Coi. 
Brechman,  wounded  him  mortally,  and  took  him  pri- 
soner, and  put  his  troops  to  flight. 

Two  hundred  and  twenty-six  of  the  British  troops 
were  killed  at  the  battle  of  Bennington,  or  rather  the 
battle  of  Hoosac,  as  it  was  fought  in  that  town.  Seven 
hundred  soldiers  were  taken  prisoness,  and  thirty-six 
officers. 

To  return  to  the  principal  scene  of  action.  Gen. 
Gates  now  received  the  command  of  the  American 
troops,  which  had  been  greatly  reinforced;  and 
marching  them  from  the  east  side  of  the  Hudson  river, 
opposite  Half  Moon,  to  Stillwater,  on  the  west  side, 
took  a  position  on  Bemis's  Heights. 


BEMIS'S  HEIGHTS, 

A  ridge  of  elevated  ground,  beginning  on  the  left, 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  river,  and  stretching 
ofiS  towards  the  north-west,  offered  great  advantages 
for  the  defence  of  the  road. 

Gen.  Gates's  Camp  was  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
road  on  the  left,  and  his  quarters  were  in  a  house 
which  is  yet  standing,  although  very  old.  A  by-road 
leads  to  rhe  place ;  and  the  traveller,  if  he  is  able, 
will  find  himself  repaid  by  examining  the  old  intrench- 
ments,  and  afterward  proceeding  along  the  heights, 
which  were  occupied  by  the  American  troops.  By 
making  a  considerable  circuit  by  a  road,  in  some  places 
rough,  he  may  ride  over  the  encampment  and  the 
scenes  of  the  tvt'o  battles,  and  then  come  back  to  the 
rivep  at  Smith's  little  tavern*  three  miles  above  thi^ 


136 


KOUTE   TO   THE   SPRINGS. 


place,  or  cross  over  to  the  Springs.  The  space  be- 
tween the  river  and  the  brow  of  the  hill  was  crossed 
by  a  deep  intrenchment  defended  with  artillery,  and 
almost  impracticable. 

The  American  Lines,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  long, 
were  furnished  with  a  breastwork  of  lojis,  (the  hills 
being  almost  entireiv  a  forest,)and  the  left  terminated 
opposite  the  enemy  s  right.  From  the  left  almost  to 
the  centre,  the  ground  is  level,  and  was  partly  cleared, 
yet  much  encumbered  with  fallen  and  girdled  trees. 
An  opening,  left  of  the  centre,  had  a  battery — thence 
a  ravine  ran  to  the  right. 

Near  the  house  once  occupied  by  Gen.  Gates,  and 
close  by  a  rail  fence,  are  seen  some  remains  of  the 
intrenchmenls  which  defended  the  American  camp. 
The  view  from  many  mrts  of  this  elevated  ground  is 
extensive  and  delightful,  embracing  the  fertne  shores 
and  uplands  of  the  Hudson,  with  many  surrounding 
hills  and  distant  moujitains. 

It  will  be  recoIN-'cted,  that  the  expedition  under  Sir 
Henry  Clinton,  who  p  ')ceedrd  up  Hudson  river  to 
Kingstor ,  wns  intended  to  co-operate  with  Gen.  fiur- 
goyne,  but  failed  to  produce  the  effect. 

The  British  Lines  stretclied  from  a  hill  opposite  the 
American  left,  in  .<  str;>ight  line  across  the  meadow  to 
the  Hudson  river.  The  following  account  of  their 
approach  from  Lake  George  is  (rom  Gen.  WiikinsoH's 
Memoirs. 

"  Gen.  Burgoyne  crot3'^d  the  Hudson  river  the  13th 
and  14th  of  September,  f.nd  advanced  with  great  cir- 
cumspection on  the  16th  from  Saratoga  to  Davocote, 
where  he  halted  to  repair  bridges  in  his  front.  The 
16th  was  employed  in  tnis  labour,  and  in  reconnoi- 
tring :  on  the  17th  he  advanced  a  mile  or  two,  resumed 
his  march  on  the  18th,  and  Gen.  Arnold  was  detached 
by  Gen.  Gates,  with  1500  men,  to  harass  him  ;  but 
after  a  light  skirmish,  he  returned  without  loss,  or 
effecting  any  thing  more  than  picking  up  a  few  strag- 
glers ;  and  the  enemy  moved  lorwaixl,  asKi  encamped 


BATTLE   OF  SARATOGA. 


137 


in  two  lines,  about  two  miles  from  Gen.  Gates ;  his 
left  on  the  river,  and  his  right  extending  at  right 
angles  to  it,  across  the  low  grounds  about  six  hundred 
yards,  to  a  range  of  steep  and  lofty  heights  occupied 
by  his  elite,  having  a  creek  or  gulley  in  his  front,  made 
by  a  rivulet  which  issued  from  a  great  ravine  formed 
by  the  hills,  which  ran  in  a  direction  nearly  parallel 
to  the  river,  until  within  half  a  mile  of  the  American 
camp." 

The  Northern  or  Champlain  canal,  and  ihe  coach 
road,  now  cross  the  ground  occupied  by  the  American 
right,  and  soon  afterward  that  occupied  by  the  British 
lines.  About  half  a  mile  south  of  the  latter  is  the 
house  of  Major  Uuel,  who  served  as  a  guide  to  the 
troops,  and  now  conducts  travellers  to  the  field.  He 
is  old  and  poor,  but  strong  and  active. 

The  Battle  Ground  is  on  dii  elevated  plain,  about 
two  miles  above  General  Gates's  camp,  and  the  same 
distance  west  from  Smith's  tavern.  It  may  be  taken 
in  the  way  from  the  Springs,  but  it  is  better  to  go  first 
to  Smith's  for  a  guide,  and  to  take  or  prepare  for 
refreshment.  From  Smith's  to  the  battle  eround,  the 
road  is  quite  romantic,  along  the  south  side  of  Cum- 
mingskill,  with  a  steep  bank  on  each  side  for  part  of 
the  distance.  Here  Bui^oyne  marched  up  to  extend 
his  right,  and  turn  the  American  left.  The  open 
ground  at  the  end  is  the  field  of  battle. 

The  most  severe  fighting  in  the  first  battle  was  at 
ajittle  knoll,  in  a  field  on  the  south,  passing  two  fences. 

Battle  of  Sept.  19th. 

In  the  morning,  it  was  reported  by  Col.  Colburn, 
who  was  watching  the  enemy,  that  they  were  begin- 
ning to  ascend  the  hill  towards  the  American  left. 
Gen.  Gates  sent  Col.  Moigan  to  oppose  them,  and  the 
^ring  began  about  noon.  The  action  extended,  and 
in  three  hours  was  general,  and  continued  without 
interruption  till  dark.     The  American  troops  engaged 


mmsm 


l;38 


KOLTE    TU    THE    Sl'KlNUS. 


amounted  to  3000  ;  the  British  to  3500.  The  {ollowing 
account  is  from  General  Wilkinson. 

"  This  battle  was  perfectly  accidental ;  neither  of 
the  generals  nneditated  an  attack  at  the  time,  and  but 
for  Lieut.  Col.  Colbu^n's  report,  it  would  not  have 
taken  place  ;  Bui"groyje'j  movement  being:  merely  to 
take  g^round  on  the  heights  in  front  of  the  great  ravine, 
to  g:ive  his  several  corps  their  proper  places  in  line,  to 
embrace  our  front  and  cover  his  transport,  stores^  pro- 
visions, and  bagrg^age,  in  the  rear  of  nis  left ;  ana  on 
our  side,  the  defences  of  our  camp  being  not  half  com- 
pleted, and  reinforcements  daily  arriving,  it  was  not 
General  Gates's  policy  to  court  an  action.  The  mis- 
conception of  the  adverse  chiefs  put  them  on  the  de- 
fensive, and  confined  them  to  the  ground  they  casually 
occupied  at  the  beginning  of  the  action,  and  prevented 
a  single  manoeuvre,  during  one  of  the  longest,  warmest, 
and  most  obstinate  battles  fought  in  America. 

"The  theatre  of  action  was  such,  that  although  the 
combatants  chansred  ground  a  dozen  times  in  the  course 
of  the  day,  the  contest  terminated  on  the  spot  where  it 
began.  The  British  line  war*  formed  on  an  eminence 
in  a  thin  pine  wood,  having  before  it  FVeemnn's  farm, 
an  oblong  field,  stretching  from  its  centre  towards  its 
right,  the  ground  in  front  sloping  gently  down  to  the 
verge  of  this  field,  uhich  was  bordered  on  the  oppo- 
site skde  by  a  close  wood.  The  sanguinary  scene  lay 
in  the  cleared  ground,  between  the  i  minence  occupied 
by  the  enemy,  and  the  wood  just  described.  The  fire 
of  our  marksmen  from  this  wood  was  too  deadly  to  be 
withstood  by  the  eneniy  in  line,  and  when  they  gave 
way  and  brcke,  our  men,  rushing  from  their  covert, 
pursued  them  to  the  eminence,  where,  having  their 
flanks  protected,  they  rallied,  and,  charging  in  turn, 
drove  us  back  into  the  wood,  from  whence  a  dreadful 
fire  would  again  force  them  to  fall  back  ;  and  in  this 
manner  did  le  battle  fluctuate,  like  the  wavffs  of  a 
atormy  sea,  wpih  alternate  advantage  for  four  hours, 

['mission. 


tvithout  one  moment's  interi 


The  British  artiN 


WATThL   OF    SAlJATOt^A. 


\6\) 


iory  tell  into  our  possession  at  every  chargje,  but  wc 
could  neither  turn  the  pieces  upon  the  enemy,  nor 
bring  them  off,  the  wood  prevented  the  last,  and  the 
want  of  a  match  the  first,  as  the  linstock  was  invaria- 
bly carried  off,  and  the  rapidity  of  the  transitions  did 
not  allow  us  time  to  provide  one.  The  slaughter  of 
this  brigade  of  artillerists  was  remarkable,  the  captain 
and  thirty-six  men  being  killed  or  wounded  out  of 
forty-eight.  It  was  truly  a  gallant  conflict,  in  which 
death  by  familiarity  lost  his  terrors,  and  certainly  a 
drawn  battle,  as  night  alone  terminated  it ;  the  British 
army  keeping  its  ground  in  rear  of  the  field  of  action, 
and  our  corps,  when  they  could  no  longer  distinguish 
objects,  retiring  to  their  own  camp." 

The  Interval  between  the  two  Battles. — This  time, 
from  Sept.  19th  till  Oct.  7th,  was  devoted  to  strength- 
ening their  fortifications,  and  by  Gen.  Gates  to  collect- 
ing also  large  reintbrcenients  of  militia.  Gen.  Bur- 
goyne  is  said  to  have  planned  an  attack  on  the  20th 
and  Ust  of  September,  but  fortunntely  delayed  until 
the  Americans  were  in  the  best  situation  to  oppose  him. 
Attacks  on  the  British  picquets  took  place  almost  every 
night,  and  they  were  continually  harassed. 

Battle  of  October  S. — Gen.  Wilkinson  gives  the  fol- 
lowing description  of  this  battle. 

"  The  enemy  were  formed  across  a  newly  cultivated 
field,  their  grenadiers  with  ^^everal  field  pieces  on  the 
left,  bordering  on  a  wood  and  a  small  ravine  formed  by 
the  rivulet  before  alluded  to ;  their  light  infantry  on 
the  right,  covered  by  a  worm  fence  at  the  fo" '  the 
hill  before  mentioned,  thickly  covered  with  ,.ood; 
their  centre  composed  of  British  and  German  batta- 
lions. Col.  Morgan,  with  his  usual  sagacity,  proposed 
to  make  a  circuit  with  his  corps  on  our  left,  and  under 
cover  of  the  wood  to  gain  the  height  on  the  right  of  the 
enemy,  and  from  thence  commence  his  attack,  so  soon 
as  our  fire  should  be  opened  against  their  left ;  the 
plan  was  the  best  which  could  be  devised,  and  no  doubt 


140 


UOIITK  TO  THE   SPRINGS. 


!      \ 


contributed  essentially  to  the  prompt  and  decisive  vic- 
tory we  gained. 

"  This  proposition  was  approved  by  the  General,  and 
it  was  concerted  that  time  should  be  allowed  the  Colo- 
nel to  make  the  proposed  circuit,  and  gain  his  station 
on  the  enemy's  right  before  the  attack  should  be  made 
on  their  left :  P(»or's  brigade  was  ordered  for  this  ser- 
vice, and  the  attack  was  commenced  in  due  season  on 
the  flank  and  front  of  the  British  grenadiers,  by  the 
New-Hampshire  and  New-York  troops.    True  to  his 

f)urpose,  Morgan,  at  this  critical  moment,  poured  down 
ike  a  torrent  from  the  hill,  and  attacked  the  right  of 
the  enen^  in  front  and  flank.  Dearborn,  at  the  mo- 
ment when  the  enemy's  light  infantry  were  attempt- 
ing to  change  front,  pressed  forward  with  ardour  and 
delivered  a  close  fiie  ;  then  leaped  the  fence,  shouted, 
chained,  and  gallantly  forced  them  to  retire  in  dis- 
order ;  yet,  headed  by  that  intrepid  soldier,  the  Earl 
of  Balcarras,  they  were  immediately  rallied  and  re- 
formed behind  a  fence  in  rear  of  their  first  position ; 
but  being  now  attack*  d  with  great  audacity  in  front 
and  flanks  by  superior  numbers,  resistance  became 
vain,  and  the  whole  line,  commanded  by  Burgoyne 
in  person,  gave  way  and  made  a  precipitate  and  dis- 
oraerly  retreat  to  his  camp,  leaving  two  12,  and  six: 
6  pounders  on  the  field,  with  the  loss  of  more  than  400 
omcers  and  men  killed,  woun*  led,  and  captured,  and, 
among  them,  the  flower  of  his  oflicers,  viz  : — Brigadier 
General  Frazer,*  Major  Ackland,  commanding  the 
grenadiers.  Sir  Francis  Clark,  his  first  aid-de-camp, 
Major  Williams,  commanding  officer  of  the  artillery, 
Captain  Money,  deputy  quarter-master-general,  and 
many  others.  The  ground  which  had  been  occupied 
by  the  British  grenadiers  presented  a  scene  of  com- 
plicated horror  and  exultation.    In  the  square  space 


*  General  Frazer  was  shot  in  lUc  inondow,  near  the  fence  by  the  road 
side,  just  south  ofthe  blacksunth'sshop.  The  npot  is  inarkcil  by  the' 
tliird  tree  in  a  nnv  of  poplar? 


BATTLE    Oi'    bAUATOGA. 


Hi 


lit  tvv»]ive  or  fifteen  yards  lay  eia^hteen  grenadiers  in 
the  agonies  of  death,  and  three  officers  propped  up 
against  stumps  of  trees,  two  of  them  mortally  wounded, 
bleeding-,  and  almost  speechless. 

"  I  found  the  courageous  Colonel  Cilley  a-slraddle 
on  a  brass  twelve-pounder,  and  exulting  in  the  cap- 
ture. I  pursued  the  hard-pressed  flying  enemy,  pass- 
ing over  killed  and  wounded,  untii  I  heard  one  ex- 
claim, *  Protect  me.  Sir,  against  'his  boy.*  Turning 
my  eyes,  it  was  my  fortune  to  arrest  the  purpose  of  a 
lad  thirteen  or  fourteen  years  old,  in  the  act  of  taking 
aim  at  a  wounded  officer  vvho  lay  in  the  angle  of  a 
worm  fence.  Inquiring  his  rank,  he  answered,  *  I  had 
the  honour  to  command  the  grenadiers  ;'  of  course,  I 
knew  him  to  be  Mnjor  Acklat>d,  who  had  been  brought 
from  the  field  to  this  place,  on  the  back  of  a  Captain 
Shrimpton  of  his  own  corps,  under  a  heavy  fire,  and 
was  here  deposited,  to  save  the  lives  of  both.  I  dis- 
mounted, took  him  by  the  hand,  and  expressed  hopes 
that  he  was  not  badly  wounded  :  '  not  badly,'  replied 
this  gallant  officer  and  accomplished  gentleman,  *  but 
very  inconveniently ;  I  am  shot  through  both  legs  :  will 
you,  Sir,  have  the  goodness  to  have  me  cof^veyed  to 
your  camp  ''^  I  directed  my  servant  to  alight,  and  we 
lifted  Ackland  into  his  seat,  and  ordered  him  to  be 
conducted  to  head-quarters.  I  then  proceeded  to  the 
scene  of  renewed  action,  which  embraced  Burgoyne's 
light  flank  defence,  and  extending  to  his  left,  crossed 
a  hollow  covered  with  wood,  about  40  rods,  to  the  in- 
trenchment  of  the  light  infantry.  The  roar  of  cannon 
and  small  arms  at  this  juncture  was  sublime,  between 
the  enemy  behind  their  works,  and  our  troops  entirely 
exposed,  or  partially  sheltered  by  trees,  stumps,  or 
hoUows,  at  various  distances,  not  exceeding  120  yards. 
ThivS  right  flank  defence  of  the  enemy,  occupied  by 
the  German  corps  of  Breyman,  consisted  of  a  breast- 
work of  rails,  piled  horizontally  between  perpendicu- 
lar pickets,  driven  into  the  earth,  en  potcnce  to  the  rest 
of  his  line,  and  extended  to  about  '250  yards  acro.'«sn?i 


142 


liULTE   TO  TllJi   sriilxNGS. 


open'field,  and  was  covered  on  the  right  by  a  batleiy 
of  two  guns.  The  interval  from  the  left  to  the  British 
light  infantry  was  committed  to  the  defence  o(  the 

?rovincialists,  who  occupied  a  couple  of  log  cabins, 
'he  Germans  were  encamped  immediately  behind 
the  rail  breastwork,  and  the  ground  in  front  of  it  de- 
clined  in  a  very  gentle  slope  for  about  120  yards,  when 
it  sunk  abruptly ;  our  troops  had  formed  a  line  under 
this  declivity,  and,  covered  breast  high,  were  warmly 
engaged  with  the  Germans.  From  this  position,  about 
sunset,  I  perceived  Brigadier-General  Learned  ad- 
vancing towards  the  enemy  with  his  brigade,  in  open 
column,  I  think  with  Colonel  M.  Jackson's  regiment 
in  front,  as  I  saw  Lieutenant-Colonel  Brooks,  who 
commanded  it,  near  the  General,  when  I  rode  up  to 
him.  On  saluting  this  brave  old  soldier,  he  inquired, 
'  Where  can  I  put  in  with  most  advantage  V  I  had 
particularly  examined  the  ground  between  the  left  of 
the  Germans  and  the  light  infantry,  occupied  by  the 
provincialists,  from  whence  I  had  observed  a  slack 
fire  :  I  therefore  recommended  to  General  Learned  to 
incline  to  his  right,  and  att'*.ck  at  that  point ;  he  did 
so  with  great  gallantry  ;  the  provincialists  abandoned 
their  position  and  flea ;  the  German  flank  was  by  this 
means  uncovered ;  they  were  assaulted  vigorously, 
overturned  in  five  minutes,  and  retreated  in  disorder, 
leaving  their  gallant  commander,  Lieutenant-Colonel 
Breyman,  dead  on  the  field.  By  dislodging  this  corps, 
the  whole  British  encampment  was  laid  open  to  us ; 
but  the  extreme  darkness  of  the  night,  the  fatigue  of 
the  men,  and  the  disorder  incident  to  undisciplined 
troops  after  so  desultory  an  action,  put  it  out  of  our 
power  to  iniprove  the  advantage  ;  and  in  the  course 
of  the  night,  General  Burgoyne  broke  up  his  camp,  and 
retired  to  his  original  position,  which  he  had  iortifi*id. 
behind  the  great  ravine." 

The  British  lost,  in  killed,  wounded,  and  prisoners, 
about  600 ;  the  Americans  319.  The  German  officer.^ 
said  they  bad  never  before  met  so  vigorous  and  terri 


„ 


BATTLE   OP  SAKATOUA. 


143 


, 


ble  a  fire.  Several  American  officers  who  walked 
over  the  field  after  midnight,  found  no  enemy  to  in- 
terrupt them. 

General  Frazer^s  Grave  is  on  the  hill  a  little  west 
of  Smith's.  At  his  own  request,  he  was  buried  in  the 
great  redoubt,  the  remains  of  which  are  plainly  visible, 

Oct.  8th,  frequent  attacks  were  made  on  Gen. 
Balcarras'  corps,  and  the  British  expected  a  general 
action. 

General  Bur^oyne's  Retreat  commenced  that  night 
towards  Lake  George  ;  but  he  was  pursued  and  in- 
tercepted so  promptly,  that  he  was  obliged  to  stop 
and  take  a  position  at  Schuylersville,  near  which  he 
surrendered  ten  days  after  the  battle.  The  place  will 
be  particularly  noticed  beyond. 

After  perusing  the  foregoing  descriptions  of  those  two 
most  important  battles,  the  traveller  will  be  pjreatly  in- 
terested in  learning  that  Smith's  inn,  to  which  he  has 
before  been  directed,  was  at  that  period  the 

garters  of  General  Burgoyne. — The  house  now 
stands  by  the  road  side,  but  the  place  where  it  then 
was  is  a  spot  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  abcdt  200 
yards  from  the  river.  The  cellar  is  still  to  be  seen, 
in  a  field  near  an  apple  tree,  a  little  north  of  the  road 
that  crosses  the  canal.  Willard's  mountain  is  an  emi- 
nence, a  few  miles  off,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river. 
During  the  last  battle,  the  Americans  had  a  few  can- 
non on  the  rising  ground  above  the  eastern  shore,  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  above  Smith's,  and  thence  proceeded 
the  shot  of  which  the  Baroness  Reidesel  speaks  in  the 
succeeding  note.  Several  ladies  of  distinction  were 
its  inmates  at  the  time  when  the  British  troops  were 
here,  being  the  wives  of  some  of  its  principal  officers. 
Among  these  were  the  Baroness  ReideseL*  with  her 

*  Extract  of  a  letter  from  the  Baroness^  afterward  published  in  Ocr- 
inavy^  and  lately  in  t/iis  country. 

*'  But  severe  trials  awaited  up,  and  on  the  7tli  of  October,  our  mis 
fortunes  began.    I  was  at  breakfast  with  my  husband,  and  heard  that 
.-io/npfhine  wns  inrendod.    Ou  ihe  !«ame  dnv  I  expected  Generals  Biiv 


KOtJTE   TO   THE   SFRINGS. 


children,  wife  of  General  Reidesel,  and  Lady  Harriet 
Ackland,  wife  of  Major  Ackland,  commander  of  the 


goyne,  Phtilipis,  and  Frazer  to  dine  with  us.     I  saw  a  great  movenssnt 
among  the  troops ;  my  husband  told  me,  it  was  merely  a  reconnolssanee, 
Avhich  gave  me  no  concern,  as  it  often  happened.    I  wallied  out  of  the 
house  and  met  several  Ihdians  in  their  war  dresses,  with  guns  in  their 
hands.    When  1  asked  them  where  they  were  going,  they  cried  out. 
War !  War !  (meaning  they  were  going  to  battle.)    This  filled  me  with 
apprehension,  and  I  scarcely  got  home  before  I  heard  reports  of  cannon 
and  musketry,  which  grew  louder  by  dRgreef<,  till  at  last  the  noise  be- 
came excessive.    About  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  instead  of  the  guests 
wliom  I  expected,  Gehcral  Frazer  was  brought  on  a  litter  mortally 
wounded.    The  table,  which  was  already  set,  was  instantly  removed, 
and  a  bed  placed  in  its  stead  for  the  wounded  General.    I  sat  trembling 
in  a  corner ;  the  noise  grew  louder,  and  the  alarm  increased ;  the  thought 
that  my  husband  mifrht  perhaps  be  brought  in,  wounded  in  the  same 
way,  was  terrible  to  me,  and  distressed  me  exceedingly.    Gen.  Frazer 
snid  to  tlie  surgeon,  "  tell  me  if  my  wound  is  mortal ;  dv  not  flatter  mc." 
The  ball  had  passed  through  his  body,  and,  unhappily  for  the  General, 
he  had  eaten  a  very  hearty  breakfast,  by  which  the  stomach  was  dis- 
tended, and  the  ball,  as  tiie  surgeon  said,  had  passed  through  it.    I 
heard  him  often  exclaim  with  a  sigh, "  Ob,  fatal  ambition !  Poor  General 
Burgoyne !  Oh,  my  poor  wife !"    He  was  asked  if  he  had  any  request 
to  make,  to  which  he  replied,  that  •'  If  General  Burgoyne  would  permit 
it,  he  should  like  to  be  buried  at  six  o'clock  in  the  evening  on  the  top  of 
a  mountain,  in  a  redoubt  which  had  been  built  there."    I  did  not  kno«v 
which  way  to  turn,  all  the  other  rooms  were  full  of  sick.    Towards 
evening  I  saw  my  husband  coming ;  then  I  forgot  all  my  sorrows  and 
thanked  God  that  he  was  spared  to  me.    He  ate  in  great  haste  with  me 
and  his  aid-de-camp  behmd  the  house.    We  had  been  told  that  we  bad 
the  advantage  of  the  enemy,  hut  the  sorrowful  faces  I  beheld  told  a  dif- 
ferent tale,  and  before  i)iy  hu<:hand  went  away,  he  took  me  one  side, 
and  said  every  thing  wiis  going  very  bad,  that  I  must  keep  myself  in 
i-eadincss  to  leave  the  place,  but  not' to  mention  it  to  any  one.    I  made 
tlie  pretence  that  I  would  move  tiie  tiext  morning  into  my  new  house, 
and  had  every  thing  packed  up  ready. 

"  Lady  H.  Ackland  liad  a  tent  not  far  from  our  house ;  in  this  she 
slept,  and  the  rest  of  the  day  she  was  in  the  camp.  All  of  a  sudden,  a 
man  came  to  tell  her  thiit  her  husband  was  mortally  wounded  and  taken 
prisoner ;  on  liearing  this  she  became  very  miserable ;  we  comforted 
her  by  telling  her  that  the  wound  was  only  slight,  and  at  the  same  time 
advised  her  to  go  over  to  her  husband,  to  do  which  she  would  certainly 
obtain  permission,  and  then  she  could  attend  him  herself:  she  was  a 
charming  woman  and  very  fond  of  him.  I  spent  much  of  the  night  in 
comforting  her,  and  then  went  again  to  my  children  whom  I  had  put  to 
bed.  I  could  not  go  to  sleep,  as  I  had  General  Frazer  and  all  the  other 
wounded  gentlemen  in  my  room,  and  I  was  sadly  afraid  my  children 
would  awake,  and  by  their  crying  disturb  the  dying  man  in  his  last  mo- 
Jiients,  who  often  addressed  nie,  and  apologized  '•'■for  the  trouble  he 
<rave  mc."  About  3  o'clock  in  the  morning  I  was  told  he  could  not  hold 
out  much  longer ;  I  had  desired  to  be  informed  of  the  near  approach  of 
>rji«  sad  crjf-is.  rt)'!  I  then  wrapped  up  my  children  In  thf'ir  clothes,  and 


y  Harriet 
er  of  the 


it  movenisnt 
onnolMance, 
1  out  of  the 
guns  in  their 
ey  cried  out, 
iled  me  with 
is  of  cannon 
he  noise  be- 
of  the  gucstfl 
,ter  mortally 
ly  removed, 
at  trembling 
;  thetliought 
in  the  same 
Gen.  Frazer 
.  flatter  me.'' ^ 
the  General, 
ich  was  dis- 
irough  it.  I 
Poor  General 

I  any  request 
vould  permit 
on  the  top  of 
lid  not  kno»v 
c.  Towards 
sorrows  and 
aste  with  me 
that  we  bad 
Id  told  a  dif- 
ne  one  side, 
3p  myself  in 
me.  I  made 
r  new  house, 

;  in  this  eh6 
'  a  sudden,  a 
ed  and  talcen 
ire  comforted 
lie  same  time 
uld  certainly 
f:  she  was  a 
'  the  night  in 

I I  had  put  to 
all  the  other 
my  children 

1  his  last  mo- 
ke  trouble  he 
ould  not  hold 

•  approach  of 

•  clothcp.  and 


i 


iiii<i  miBi        ii»iw       ■!    "  ■"  'T 


Mr 


■  II        I  i»  I 


"^L 
S 

•s 

f^ 


Q 

h 


^impm 


mm 


mgmmms!P-^:^s!L-'^x^- 


UALLSTON   SPRINGS. 


Uu 


British  Grenadiers.  The  former  published  an  account 
of  what  she  saw  during  this  trying  and  dangerous  con- 
test, after  her  return  to  Europe.  The  house  was  con- 
verted into  an  hospital  during  the  second  battle,  and 
Gen.  Frazer  died  on  the  8th  of  October  in  what  is 
now  the  bar-room.     His  grave  is  on  the  hill. 

BALLSTON  SPRINGS. 


This  village  is  situated  in  a  little  valley  surrounded 
by  hills,  which  have  the  aspect  of  having  once  been 
the  bed  of  a  small  lake.  The  high  ground  enclosing 
it,  gives  an  air  of  seclusion  to  the  place',  at  the  same 
time  that  it  furnishes  a  variety  of  pleasant  scenery. 
The  Kayderosseros  brook  flows  through  the  valley,  m 
some  places  overhung  by  the  groves  of  forest  trees 
that  cover  the  hills. 

The  Sail  Souci  Hotel  is  the  principal  house  in  the 
place,  and  is  at  least  equal  in  plan  and  in  arrangement 
to  any  similar  establishment  in  the  country.  Al&dge's 
is  a  respectable  house,  in  a  pleasant  situation.    Mrs. 

went  with  them  into  the  room  below,  ^^bout  8  o'rMick  in  the  morning 
he  died.  After  lie  was  laid  out  and  bis  orpae  wrapped  up  in  a  sh^et, 
we  came  again  int*  the  room,  artd  had  this  sorrowful  sitthl  before  ust/ic 
whole  day ;  and  to  add  to  this  melancholy  scene,  >«lnM»«i  every  moment 
some  officer  of  my  acquaintance  was  broucht  in  wounded  The  can- 
nonade commenced  acain ;  a  retreat  vi  ns  spolcen  of,  but  i.ot  the  :<!mallest 
motion  was  made  towards  it.  About  4  o'clocit  in  the  afternoon  I  saw 
the  house  which  had  just  been  built  for  me  in  flames,  and  the  enemy  was 
now  not  lar  off.  We  Itnew  that  General  Hurgovne  would  not  -efuse 
tlic  last  request  of  General  Frazer,  though,  by  his  acceding  to  it,  an  un- 
necessary delay  was  occasioned,  by  which  the  inconvenience  of  the 
army  was  much  increased.  At  6  o'clock  the  corpse  was  brought  out, 
and  we  saw  all  the  Generals  attend  it  to  the  mountain ;  the  chaplain, 
Mr.  Brundell,  performed  the  funeral  service,  rendered  unusually  solenm 
and  awful,  from  its  beio;'  i  <  ompanied  by  constant  peals  from  the  ene- 
my's artillery.  Many  cannr  oaila  flew  close  by  me ;  but  I  had  my  eyes 
directed  towards  the  rau.<i>t;>'n,  wliere  my  hiisbant^  was  standing,  amid 
the  fire  of  the  enemy,  at  •',,  ri  course,  I  could  not  think  of  my  own  dan- 
ger. General  Gates  after  ;«ird  said,  that  if  be  had  known  it  had  been 
a  funeral,  he  would  not  have  permitted  it  to  be  fired  on."  Lady  Harriet 
Ackland  went  to  the  American  camp  after  the  action,  to  take  caie  of  her 
husband,  before  the  surrender,  and  the  Baroness  Reidesel  afterward. 
They  were  both  received  with  the  greatest  kindness  and  dellcaov. 

N  2 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


1.0 


I.I 


■50   "i^"     mWKM 

S  1^  ilM 


1-25      1.4      1.6 

^ 

6"     

► 

<^ 


^ 


/} 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  UA:n  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


4r 


[<? 


'^^•"^ilSSf^m.  ['.miii\* 


rwsT^'W'wr^wwmm 


A^"^ 


THE   SFSINGS. 


M'Masters',  the  Village  Hotel,  &c.  are  in  the  neiglic 
bourhood. 

^t?-iH.^^Mm-k^hr::^.    Sans  Souci  ■'''       •'   ' 

is  a  building  of  great  size,  occupying  the  corner  where  ' 
the  villat^e  street  meets  the  road  to  Saratoga.  It  has 
a  fine  piazza  opening  upon  the  former,  and  presents  ' 
front  of  156  feet  long,  with  a  wing  extending  nack  from 
each  end  150  feet,  all  of  them  three  stories  high,  and 
containing  in  all  lodging  for  nearly  150  persons.  The 
dining  room  can  easily  accommodate  that  number,  and 
the  public  parlour  is  large,  airy,  and  pleasant,  extend- 
ing to  the  ladies'  private  parlour. 

pcarcely  any  thin^  in  this  country  can  exceed  the 
scene  of  gayety  which  this  house  presents  in  the  visit- 
ing season.  When  crowded  with  people.  Sans  Souci 
is  usually  the  scene  of  several  balls  in  the  week,  to 
say  nothing  of  the  fishing  parties,  riding  parties,  &c. 
&c.  which  f.ll  up  the  day.  The  variety  of  sceneiy 
in  the  neighbourhood  is  sufficient  to  attract  many  of 
those  who  resort  to  this  place  of  health  and  pleasure ; 
and  walking  and  riding  will  be  found  much  more 
agreeable  here  than  at  Saratoga.  Some  of  the  parti- 
cular routes  and  objects  will  be  designated  hereafter. 


".y:  .1 


The  Washington  Spring. 


A  new  and  remarkable  chal3rbeate  Spring  was  oo- 
tained,  in  1827,  by  boring  237  feet  deep,  through  blue 
slate  rock,  near  the  OlcT  Spring.  It  has  a  tiibe  sunk 
the  whole  distance,  made  partly  of  iron  and  partly  of 
tin,  and  affords  a  most  aelightful  sparkling  water, 
which  boils  over  the  top.  In  August  of  that  year^  se- 
veral months  atler  it  was  opened,  the  water  was  forced 
into  the  air  to  the  height  of  12  or  14  feet,  without  any 
perceptible  cause,  in  a  constant  jet,  for  about  half  an 
noup.    The  water  then  disappeared,  and  was  after- 


J'.ALLSTON. 


147 


lO- 


of 

e- 
d 

J 
in 

r- 


i 


ward  discovered  slowly  rising,  till  it  again  overflowed. 
It  was  tor  a  time  flat  and  turoid  ;  but  soon  recovered 
all  its  clearness,  gaseous  pungency,  and  sparkling. 
This  spring  affords  some  of  the  finest  chalybeate  water 
in  the  United  States. 

The  iMjayette  Springy  which  yields  a  fine  and 
sparkling  chalybeate  water,  was  discovered  early  in 
the  summer  of  1825.  It  is  supposed  by  many  to  be 
in  fact  identical  with  the  "  Old  Spring,"  which  is  soon 
to  be  spoken  of,  being  distant  from  it  only  about  thirty 
feet,  it  is  very  cold  and  highly  charged  with  oxyde 
of  iron  and  carbonk:  acid  gas,  which  nave  given  it  a 
high  reputation. 

The  Old  Springy  which  is  in  the  middle  of  the 
street  opposite  Aldridge's,  was  the  first  discovered  in 
all  this  part  of  the  country.  It  is  said  that  the  inhabit- 
ants were  induced  to  trust  to  its  peculiar  virtues  by 
ihe  example  of  the  deer  of  the  forest,  which  had  re- 
sorted to  it  in  such  numbers  as  to  form  beaten  p^As 
from  every  direction  to  the  spot.  In  1792  there  was 
not  a  house  within  two  or  three  miles  of  this  spot. 

The  Old  Spring  has  lost  much  of  its  original  excel- 
lence, which  appears  to  be  in  a  good  degree  transferred 
to  the  nev/  ones. 

The  Saline,  or  United  States  Spring,  is  a  fine  and 
most  valuable  one  ;  it  is  near  the  bathing  house  con- 
nected with  the  Sans  SqucI.  It  was  discovered  a  few 
years  since,  and  contains  a  laige  quantity  of  oxyde  of 
iron,  together  with  glauber  and  other  salts,  so  that  it  is 
at  once  a  strong  saline,  and  chalybeate  water.  The 
iron  is  in  such  quantities  as  to  be  perceptible  to  the 
taste.  Its  effect  is  tonic,  and  it  favourably  counteracts 
the  debilitating  effect  of  the  salts. 

The  New  Spring  is  near  the  Sans  Souci  hotel.  It 
was  obtained  in  1827  by  boring  to  a  depth  of  about 
300  feet,  and  is  full  otgas,  very  sparkling  and  con- 
sidered both  saline  and  chalybeate.  •  ; 

The  neighbouring  country  was  almost  a  perfect  wil- 
deme???  at  the  rloPe  r>f  the  Kevolutionary  war ;  for  the 


u^ 


THC   HPBI.NGS. 


natural  military  roufe  between  Canada  and  the  United 
States  lay  through  it,  and  the  Five  Nations  of  Indians 
were  so  near  on  the  western  side,  and  were  so  fre- 
quently passing  over  it  on  their  war  parties,  that  few 
white  men  were  willing  to  encounter  the  dangers  and 
risks  to  which  such  a  residence  must  necessarily  be 
exposed. 

For  some  years,  the  only  place  where  visiters  could 
find  shelter  here,  was  in  a  log  house,  near  the  Old 
Spring,  which  was  for  some  time  the  only  object  of 
notice.  The  springs  near  the  Sans  Souci  were  subse- 
quently discovered,  and  have  enjoyed  their  portion  of 
celebrity.  In  1817  four  springs  of  different  qualities 
were  found  near  the  great  manufactory  built  by  Mr. 
L6w.  Their  histoiy  is  worthy  of  attention,  as  it 
shows  the  singular  changes  which  sometimes  take 
place  in  this  mysterious  soil,  where  springs  occasion- 
ally appear,  change  places,  and  disappear,  without  any 
apparent  cau.se.  Some  surprising  power  is  constantly 
at  work  somewhere  beneath  the  surface,  which  the 
wisest  students  of  nature  are  unable  to  explain  or  to 
comprehend.  The  branch  of  the  Kayderosseros 
brook  which  flows  through  the  Spa  Village,  was  raised 
to  an  unusual  height  by  a  flood  in  the  summer  of  1817, 
and  threw  its  current  into  a  new  channel,  turher  to- 
wards the  east  than  its  former  one.  The  oM  bed  was 
thus  left  dry  ;  and  four  springs  were  found  rising  side 
by  side,  all  of  them  within  a  space  of  about  twenty 
feet  square,  and  all  of  qualities  entirely  different. 
Qne  resembled  in  some  degree  the  Old  Spring,  but 
contained  a  surplus  of  carbonic  acid  gas  ana  sparkled 
like  cbainpaign;  the  next  contained  much  glauber 
salts,  and  was  somewhat  like  the  Congress  Spring  at 
Saratoga ;  the  third  was  brine,  like  sea  water ;  and 
the  fourth  perfectly  fresh.  A  platform  was  raised 
that  covered  them  all,  and  wooden  tubes  were  sunk 
into  the  two  first,  which  were  only  two  or  three  feet 
apart ;  and  for  three  or  four  seasons  they  attracted  all 
visiters,  so  much  so  that  the  Old  Spring  was  desertedt 


' 


"*■•"•■■ 


mfmmm 


BAUiSTON. 


149 


Tr 


t 


The  first  sprini^  was  peciiliarly  fine,  and  the  favourite 
.of  all;  but  it  at  lene:th  began  to  lose  its  flavour»eas, 
and  virtue  ;  and  the  tour  springs  now  flow  off  tcgetner 
in  a  stream  of  almost  pure  water.  The  Old  Spring 
was  visited  by  Sir  William  Johnson  before  the  Kevo- 
lutionary  war,  for  his  health.  It  was  before  known  by 
reports  of  the  Indians.      *    s;  u^^^^n   ^  j^  <      ^  :■  »>  /r^:' 

QUALITIES  OF  THE  BALLSTON  WATERS. 

JVew-Haveth^pril  21,18^4,  ^ 
Dear  Sir, 
You  request  my  opinion  of  the  mineral  waters  at 
Ballston  Spa.  They  are  in  my  view  very  valuable, 
and  I  can  discern  no  serious  reason  why  public  opinion 
should  be  less  favourable  to  them  now  than  formerly. 
I  became  acquainted  with  the  Old  Spring,  near  Mr. 
Aldridge's,  in  consequence  of  using  its  waters  unin- 
terruptedly at  the  fountain  head,  for  a  month,  in  the 
Autumn  of  1797  ;  and  a  residence  of  the  same  length 
of  time,  at  Ballston  Spa,  during  the  last  summer,  gave 
me  an  opportunity  of  renewing  my  acquaintance  with 
the  Old  Spring,  and  of  becoming  familiar  also  with 
those  more  recently  discovered  fountains,  which  have 
been  opened  and  brought  into  use.  The  Old  Spring 
appears,  substantially,  as  it  did  in  1797,  and  is,  I  sup- 
pose, surpassed  by  no  mineral  fountain  in  the  world  as 
a  brisk,  copious,  slightly  saline,  and  strong  chalybeate. 
The  principal  sprina*  under  the  bath  house,  while  it 
is  also  a  brisk  chalybeate,  is  besides  in  a  high  degree 
saline,  and  is  probably  unrivalled  as  a  natural  combi- 
nation of  this  class.  Its  cathartic  properties  are  strong, 
and  its  tonic  powers  equally  so.  There  is  no  spring, 
cither  at  Ballston  Spa  or  Saratoga  Springs,  which  I 
should  prefer  to  this.    1  speak  of  my  own  cxpe- 

'^Mr.  Sillimnn  has  analyzed  tlie  water  of  this  spring,  which  ig  now 
called  tlie  United  Btiite.^i,  and  found  half  a  gallon  of  it  to  contain  270 
(uains  of  sah ;  irun,  iiine,  and  nia*i;nesia,  ]00/  It  is  at  onre  highly  salim* 
vnd  rhnlvl)'»!ttp.  wliirh  is  vitv  rpni:irknh!f> 


sc:=: 


150 


I' HE    dJ>l{IN<ii3. 


Hence^— for  some  person?,  a  bii»k  cathartic'  watci^ 
scarcely  chalybeate  at  all,  like  the  Congress  Spring', 
'tnay  be  preferable.  The  Congress  Spring  is  also,  so 
fut  as  I  am  informed,  without  a  rival,  m  its  class — but 
it  i»  scarcely  proper  to  call  it  a  chalybeate,  as  it  is  s  > 
only  in  a  slight  negtee.  There  is  no  reason  why  the 
establishments  at  Saratoga  Springs  and  at  Ballston  Spa 
should  regard  each  other  with  an  unfriendly  feeling. 
The  accommodations  of  both  are  too  good  to  need 
praise  from  me,  and  the  bounty  of  the  Creator  has 
poured  forth  these  fountains  ot  health,  in  the  threat 
valley  (for  I  regard  the  springs  of  Ballston  Spa  and 
Siaratoga  as  parts  of  one  great  system)  with  a  profuse 
benevolence,  unknown  in  any  otner  country.  Nothing 
cati  lexceed  the  variety,  copiousness,  and  excellence  of 
the  springs  at  Saratoga — but  those  of  Ballston  Spa 
are  in  no  respect,  except  that  of  number  and  variety, 
inferior  to  tlrem,  and  I  trust  the  day  is  not  distant, 
when  a  truly  liberal  feeling  will,  in  both  villages,  lead 
to  n^Mual  commendation,  and  an  amicable  rivalry,  .in 
effort?  tb  please  and  to  accommodate  their  guests ; 
kiK)  the  salutary  efiect  will  then,  I  am  persuaded,  soon 
be  visible,  ih  the  increased  number  of  visiters,  from 
eiety  patt  of  this  great  continent;  a  number  more 
thaAi  sutncient  to  fill  both  villages,  and  fully  to  reward 
the  spirited  and  liberal  proprietors  of  their  respective 
public  establishments. 

With  the  best  wishes  for  the  prosperity  of  both 
places,  I  remain 

:    -    V  »        Your  Obt.  Servant, 

B.  SILLIMAN. 

Low's  Manufactory  is  four  stories  high,  a^>out  170 
feet  long,  and  forty  feet  wide,  with  a  large  room  in 
each  of  the  three  upper  stories  about  115  feet  long. 
It  is  not  used. 

There  is  a  Readins  Room  and  Circulating  Library 
kept  at  the  store  of  Mr.  Comstock  ;  and  a  book  is  also 
to  be  seen,  in  which  the  names  of  visiters  arriving  at 


V  GAL  WAX, 


161 


the  principal  houses  dre  daily  enteKed)  for  the  iufonil- 
ation  of  others.  t    h"?  n>  i-!'  »  -*/?  *h'*^     'sritfir 

The  Lover^s  Leap  is  a  precipice  of  60  or  70  feet, 
"which  overhangs  the  Kayaerosseros,  tad  overlooks  a 
roniitntic  and  secluded  little  valley,  at  the  distance  of 
about  half  a  mile  from  the  springs.  The  road  leads 
up  the  hill  beyond  Aldiidge's,  and  through  a  dark  pine 
p^rove.  A  half-trodden  path  turns  off  at  the  right,  and 
conducts  to  the  ptecipice,  which  is  a  pleasant  retreat 
in  the  heat  ot  the  day,  affording  a  fijie  shade  and  fre- 
quently a  pleasant  breeze,  as  well  as  the  view  of  a 
wild  scene  below,  to  which  a  steep  descent  conducts 
on  the  left  hand. 

Ballston  Lake  is  a  pretty  little  sheet  of  water  about 
four  miles  distant;  out  as  Saratoga  Lake  is  muck 
larger,  more  accessible,  and  mo^-e  beautiful,  and  Is 
supplied  with  accommodations  for  tishin^  parties,  it  is 
more  worthy  of  attention;  we  refer  the  stranger  to 
the  description  of  it  on  page  146.  The  distance  is 
four  and  a  half  miles,  and  nve  and  a  half  frcnn  Saro- 
toga  Springs,  It  is  only  six  miles  from  Ballston  Spa 
to  the  south  end,  where  is  the  finest  view  of  it,  on  tne 
way  to  the  battle  ground.  The  road  is  rather  stony 
and  rough,  but  perfectly  safe,  and  has  some  pleasant 
spots,  and  several  extensive  views.  TheOreen  Muim^ 
tains  in  Vermont  piesent  a  very  noble  appe^arance ;  and 
several  ridges  of  hills  between,  afterward  succeeded 
by  the  swelling  and  fertile  shores  of  the Jiudson,  fi»cm 
a  various  and  delightful  landscape. 

Mr,  Simpson*  St  arm  inGalwayi  is  11  milos  we3l 
from  Ballston  Springs^      ;    i:  ,.  ,    «tf<  ijjw  .t^ 

Hh  is  an  excellent  farmer,  and  his  house  a  vetf  g^ood 
inn.  Take  the  road  up  the  sand  hill  by  Aldn(%e'sr 
passing  near  the  Lover^s  Leap,  and  rollowifig  the 
Johnstown  road*  His  house  is  on  a  high  ridge  ofTand ; 
the  tarm  contains  800  acres,  360  of  which  are  culti- 
vated, principally  for  grain  and  grass.  He  raise?  40 
or  50  bushels  of  wheat  to  an  acre  by  late  ploughing, 
about  three  inches  deep.    He  soaks  his  seed  wheat  in 


wm 


"■^mpwupPSIw 


■fHOTpRJllOTipW 


IdJsJ 


TIIL   &L*iii^G6. 


n 


m 


brine,  and  rolls  it  in  lime  to  preserve  it  Iruni  iiijiect^^ 
Other  seeds  he  rolls  in  plaster.  He  has  raised  700 
bushels  of  potatoes  to  an  acre.  His  corn  is  planted 
two  feet  apart  one  way^  and  two  and  a  half  the  other. 

His  fences  are  of  stone  and  wood — a  low  stone 
wally  with  timber  in  it,  to  secure  the  parts  above 
srround.  A  fence  of  two  rails  is  thus  made  above ; 
the  rails  being  of  plank,  about  four  inches  wide.  Of 
this  kind  of  fence,  he  has  on  bis  iarm  what  would 
measure  16  miles.  -«  -^^ 

The  place  enjoys  so  fine  and  healthy  a  situation,  and 
the  inn  is  so  well  kept,  bein^  one  of  the  best  in  this 
part  of  the  country,  that  it  is  the  resort  of  many  vi- 
siters from  different  quarters,  who  frequently  spend 
days  or  weeks  there.  The  charges  are  more  moderate 
than  at  the  Springs.  iii' i 

The  view  is  commanding,  and  the  air  fine.  From 
an  eminence  west  of  the  house,  no  less  than  13  coun- 
ties may  be  discovered.  The  church  is  half  a  mile 
distant}  and  the  road  from  Ballston  pretty  good. 


i-^«fm 'i- 


^  !  '    REMARKS  ON  THE  ROUTES. 


j^^.'n: 


*'*  f>»jj 


At  the  Springs  many  a  traveller  has  to  aTrdnge  his 
future  journeys,  either  for  business  or  pleasure  ;  and 
as  Balaton  and  Saratoga  are  pre-eminently  places  of 
leisure,  some  general  nints  concerning  the  different 
routes  will  not  be  misplaced.  **  ' ' 

jyorth.  The  roads  to  Lake  George,  Lake  Cham- 
plain»  Montreal,  &c.,  belonging  more  properly  to  Sara- 
toga, will  be  given  under  that  head.  ^ 

East,  The  traveller  is  referred  to  the  same  place 
and  Albany  for  the  roads  leading  into  New-England. 

South,  Three  or  four  steamboats  leave  Albany  for 
New- York  eveiy  day,  and  as  many  arrive  from  that 
city.  Several  also  ply  every  week  between  New- 
York  and  other  pomts.  They  touch  at  numerous 
points  on  the  river,  so  that  passengers  can  land  where 
tbej  please.    The  newspapers  will  furhish  all  nece^- 


uiiiau»muiJU«l'i  ^aa 


Pt»»"»»W|W^WW"»WWW 


11  iiisecL^. 
aised  700 
is  planted 
the  other, 
ow  •  stone 
lis  above 
le  above; 
nde.  Of 
lat  would 

ation*  and 
est  in  this 
many  vi- 
itly  spend 
moderate 

e.  From 
1 13  coun- 
Eilf  a  mile 
od. 

■■'    '■  r-* 

rstnge  his 

iure ;  and 

places  of 

different 

:e  Cham- 
y  to  Sara- 

ime  place 
Ingland. 
LlBany  for 
from  that 
en  New- 
numerous 
nd  where 
all  neceF- 


■H 


i.  >r. .. 


-'*  * 


f 


'-■     ,  -  -i*'  - 


W^' 


'^f^v 


% 


'  * 


M-  t 


^ '  JlllV  ■"^ffrr.wvw    •^■■"-r' i  T.MJK'" ' 'W\?P  lf» '<•«■  J(11 


■^^. 


< 

•^ 


Vi 


„^  .,.     ^   ^1    ^■-•^t   , 


wjfMr— ^''""-'^■~  -■  - 


SAKATOi^A. 


163 


50 


ftary  intuniialion  concernira^  their  periods  uf  departure 
and  return ;  and  coaches  from  the  Springs  so  regulate 
their  time  as  to  accommodate  the  traveller. 

There  are  severai  roads  to  Albany:  by  Waterfordy 
and  Troj,  or  Gibbonsville,  and  by  Schenectady. 

From  Waterford  you  may  take  either  side  of  the 
river.  On  the  west  side  are  the  Cohoes  Falls,  the 
remarkable  ''nine  locks"  on  the  Erie  Canal,  the  junc- 
tion of  the  two  canals,  and  route  of  the  former  quite  to 
Albany.  On  the  east  side  the  road  passes  over  a 
bridge  to  Lansingburgh,  through  Troy,  and  recrosses 
by  a  good  and  safe  ferr^.    (See  Index.) 

The  second  road,  which  ^oes  through  Schenectady, 
is  rather  circuitous,  but  will  give  the  stranger  an  op- 
portunity of  travelling  27  mUes  on  the  Erie  Canal, 
along  the  course  of  the  Mohawk. 

Irest.  The  grand  western  route,  through  Utica, 
and  leading  to  Niagara  and  Lake  Erie,  haa  been  al-  f 
ready  traced  out.  The  nearest  point  on  this  route  is 
Schenectady,  whence  the  traveller  may  proceed  up 
the  Mohawk,  either  by  the  stage  road,  or  in  the  canal 
boats. 

The  direct  road  to  Schenectady,  however,  is  sandy, 

and  quite  uninteresting. 

.■••rt-  •    •• 

» i^  SARATOGA  SPRINGS 

are  7  miles  from  Ballston  Springs,  and  a  coach  gene- 
rally passes  between  these  two  places  every 
day  ;  besides  a  number  of  other  carriages  on  their  way 
from  Albany,  &c.  What  is  called  the  regular  price 
for  these  7  miles  is  50  cents  for  a  seat.  The  old  ro^d  < 
is  level  and  sandy,  &nd  if  the  weather  be  dry  the  tra- 
veller will  probably  be  incommoded  with  dust, 
unless  he  rides  in  the  morning  or  evening,  when  the 
ground  is  moist  with  the  dew.  The  new  road  passes 
over  higher  ground,  and  is  pleasanter  and  harder,  al*  JJ,^ 
though  somewhat  longer.     You  may  pass  out  by  th^ 

rt)ifrt-hoirse,  €a:st,  or  turn  to  the  right  lust  below  (ha 

o 


P»'(""iiW'"WPif|WlWipi!|»!P«w»?fW 


■pnpi 


154 


TUE  sruiiVGd. 


Sans  Souci.  You  enjoy  some  fine  views  of  the  dis" 
tant  bills  and  mountains ;  and  the  soil  and  crops  are 
generally  much  better  than  on  the  old  road. 

Saratoga  is  quite  concealed  until  you  are  within  a 
short  distance,  and  then  the  clusters  of  frail  board 
buildings  which  sprinjg:  up  amon^  the  stumps  of  trees 
lately  tolled  in  the  skirts  of  the  p\ne  forest,  show  what 
an  unnatural  surplus  of  population  the  i)lace  contains 
during  the  visiting  season,  which  is  principally  in  July 
and  August.  It  may  not  be  unseasonable  to  mention 
here  the  principal  houses  in  the  order  in  which  they 
are  supposed  to  stand  on  the  list  of  gentility  :  the  Con« 
gress  Hall,  $10  per  week ;  United  States  Hotel,  do. ; 
the  Pavilion,  do. ;  and  Union  Hall  $8. 

,0n  reaching  the  brow  of  a  bill  which  descends  into 
the  village,  tne  street  lies  in  full  view,  with  all  the 
principafhouses.  On  the  right  is  Congress  Hall  three 
stories  high  with  a  row  of  17  columns,  risine;  from  the 
ground  to  the  eaves  ;  opposite  is  Union  Hall  with  a 
row  of  10  similar  columns  ;  over  which  are  seen  the 
brick  walls  of  the  United  States  Hotel ;  and  still  be- 
yond, on  the  other  side,  the  roof  of  the  Pavilion. 
From  this  view  the  village  is  represented  in  the  ac- 
companying print,  which  was  taken  on  the  spot. 

On  reaching  the  foot  of  the  hill,  the  Congress  Spring, 
the  great  attraction  of  the  place,  is  seen  at  a  short  dis- 
tance on  the  right,  usually  surrounded  with  a  throng  of 
pecple.  . 

Congress  Hall  / 

has  generally  enjoyed  the  highest  favour  among  the 
most  fashionable  visiters  at  Saratoga,  on  account  of  its 
fine  and  imposing  appearance,  its  contiguity  to  the 
Spring,  the  number  and  size  of  its  apartments,  and 
the  style  in  which  it  is  furnished  and  kept.  It  is  196 
feet  long  on  t)  i  street,  with  two  wings  oi  60  feet  run- 
ning back,  and  contains  lodging  for  150.  The  first 
floor  in  front  is  divided  in  the  Tollowing  manner :  a 


mmim*mmm 


SC 


SABATOtiA. 


155 


dining  room  in  the  middle,  capable  of  containing 
tables  for  all  the  house  can  accommodate ;  next  the 
dancing  hall,  about  80  feet  long,  and  south  the  ladies* 
private  parlour.   The  price  of  board  is  $10  per  week. 

The  United  States  Hall 

is  a  fine  building  of  brick,  three  stories  high,  vrith  a 
colonade  rising  only  to  the  second  story.  This  house 
is  excellently  well  kept,  and  is  more  substantially  built 
than  any  of  the  rest,  which  are  of  a  li^ht  construction, 
fit  only  for  the  mildest  weather ;  but  it  is  deficient  in 
public  rooms,  in  which  particular  Congress  Hall  so 
much  excels.  It  is  also  raised  so  high  from  the  street 
as  not  to  be  convenient  of  access,  although  some  pre- 
fer  it  on  that  very  account. 

The  Pavilion. 

This  is  a  veiy  good  house  for  one  of  its  size,  and 
will  be  found  free  from  much  of  the  bustle  of  the  larger 
ones,  while  it  is  often  the  resort  of  much  company 
in  the  visiting  season.  Those  who  wish  to  drink 
often  of  the  Flat  Rock  w  ater  will  prefer  it,  as  that 
Spring  is  only  a  few  steps  from  it  in  the  rear.  There 
is  a  fine  bathing  house  connected  with  it,  and  a  shady 
little  wood  not  far  beyond  by  the  road  side,  on  the 
way  to  the  Round  Rock  Spring. 

Union  Hall 

is  the  resort  of  those  who  wish  to  have  the  most  con- 
venient access  to  the  waters  of  the  Congress  Spring, 
or  to  participate  more  moderately  in  the  amusements 
of  the  place,  and  to  avoid  the  inconveniences  of  gayetv 
and  mirth,  produced  by  the  continued  round  of  balfs 
nod  dances  in  the  other  principal  houses. 


a 


\u 


THE  SPRINGS. 


The  Congress  Spring, 


which,  as  was  before  remarked,  is  the  great  soured 
from  which  this  place  derives  its  celebrity  and  its 
show  of  wealth  and  importance,  was  discovered  by- 
Mr.  Putnam.  He  built  the  first  house  near  it  for  the 
accommodation  of  invalids,  which  was  subsequently 
enlarged  to  the  present  Union  Hall,  now  kept  by  his 
son.  The  Congress  Spring  was  long  concealed  by  the 
neighbouring  brook  which  formerly  passed  over  it ; 
but  its  valuable  qualities  beinp:  discovered,  it  has  at- 
tracted universal  attention,  and  the  benefits  of  its  wa- 
ters are  annually  dispensed  to  thousands. 

Mr.  Silliman  gives  the  following  analysis :  half  a 
gallon  contains  320  grains  of  salt,  26  lime  and  mag- 
nesia, with  a  slight  trace  of  iron. 

The  Flat  Rock  Spring 

is  near  the  upper  end  of  the  street,  and  in  the  rear  of 
the  Pavilion.  In  composition  and  (]ualities  it  bears  a 
resemblance  to  the  Washington  Spring  at  BaUstorif  but 
is  far  inferior.  It  is  a  chalybeate  water,  and  the  best 
of  the  kind  in  the  place.  It  is  situated  on  the  margip 
of  the  little  valley  in  which  all  the  springs  are  founds 
and  the  Pavilion  will  prove  a  pleasant  house  to  inva- 
lids s^nd  others  who  wish  to  drink  of  it  frequently. 


The  Round  Rock  Spring. 


■.'1 


This  Spring  is  worthy  of  a  visit  merely  as  a  natural 
curiosity  :  the  water,  although  for  a  time  much  cele- 
brated, and  indeed  the  only  attraction  of  which  Sara- 
toga could  boast,  having  gone  into  disrepute,  since  the 
discovery  of  the  sources  already  mentioned.  It  is  a 
feeble  chalybeate  with  little  taste  and  little  effect. 
The  water  rises  in  a  small  rock  of  calcareous  tufa,  of 
a  conical  form,  with  a  circular  hole  in  the  middle, 
about  five-  inches  io  diameter.    The  rock  is  abont  fivr^  4 


nmtt  i.liiil,M!lui!iMU.iiJBa8M 


SARATOGA. 


16' 


feet  Ihrougfh  at  the  base,  and  has  evidently  been  pro- 
duced by  the  layers  of  lime  deposited  by  the  water. 
Many  of  the  rocks  in  the  neiglibourho<)a  contain  a 
large  quantity  of  lime,  where  the  carbonic  acid  of  the 
water  probably  obtains  the  supply  which  it  afterward 
deposites  here.  The  gradual  accretion  which  is  thus 
constantly  going  on  is  very  apparent  even  to  a  hasty 
observer.  That  part  of  the  rock  which  is  most  ex- 
posed to  the  dripping  of  water  taken  out  in  cups 
through  the  hole  in  the  top,  is  always  smooth  and  even, 
while  other  parts  are  rough  and  broken.  Fractures 
made  by  visiters  are  sometimes  found  half  obliterated 
by  a  recent  coat  of  calcareous  matter  formed  in  this 
manner.  A  horizontal  rock,  apparently  of  similar 
formation,  extends  for  a  considerable  distance  under 
the  surface  of  the  ground ;  and  indeed  it  might  be 
supposed  to  re^ch  to  some  of  the  springs  which  rise 
in  different  places  along  the  valley  above. 

The  water,  according  to  common  report,  formerly 
flowed  over  the  top,  but  has  for  many  years  found  its 
way  below,  through  a  crevice  produced  by  a  large 
forest  tree  which  feU  and  cracked  tbe  rock. 


•^ 


Saratoga  Lak^:. 

An  excursion  to  this  beautiful  piece  of  water,  is  one 
of  the  most  agreeable  that  can  be  made  in  amr  di- 
rection. It  is  Si  miles  distant,  in  a  south-easteiw  di- 
rection, and  is  frequently  visited  by  parties  from  Balls- 
ton,  as  well  as  Saratoga  Springs,  as  a  good  house  has 
been  lately  erected  on  the  shore,  and  furnished  with 
every  accommodation,  by  Mr.  Riley.  Sailing  and 
fishing  on  the  lake  form  the  amusements  of  the  ex- 
cursion. 

The  first  part  of  the  way  is  by  the  eastern  road  to 
Ballston  Spa  ;  and  after  turning  to  the  left  and  ridin;;^ 
to  vvithin  naif  a  mile  of  the  lake,  a  fine  view  opens 
from  the  top  of  a  hill.  The  eye  embraces  a  part  of 
this  fine  slreet  of  water,  with  its  sloping  and  verdant 

O  2 


.iM'"!"U'(<'illl4WlltU|I.HUII.Ifi)l!l|l|UW'^i^'' 


'    '"i"iisp«;fli»uip«i",.' 


isa 


TUti  SPRtNOB. 


tflhoresy  generally  divided  by  square  fields;   W4ih  a 
distant  view  of  the  Green  Mountains. 

At  a  considerable  distance  from  the  shore,  is  erected 
A  stage,  16  by  14  feet,  a  little  raised  above  the  water, 
and  capable  of  containing  thirty  people.  The  lake 
is  there  about  seven  feet  deep,  and  the  spot  is  excel- 
lent for  fishinc:.  Parties  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  are 
taken  off  in  boats,  and  in  hot  weather  an  awning  is 
spread  to  shade  them  from  the  sun. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake  is  a  remarkable 
rocky  and  woody  hill,  of  a  rounded  form,  which  is 
connected  with  the  shore  only  by  a  narrow  neck. 
The  deepest  water  is  two  miles  below,  at  Drowned 
Meadow  Cove,  where  it  is  160  or  170  feet  to  the  bot- 
tpip.  The  road  running  north  from  Riley's  is  plea- 
sant, but  reaches  only  half  a  mile. 

The  lake  extends  seven  miles  in  length,  and  is  two 
in  breadth.  The  shores  are  bold  ancTvaried,  gently 
descending  with  a  smooth  slope  to  the  margm,  or 
rising  in  rugged  cra&:s  from  the  water's  edge  ;  some- 
times  soAened  and  beautified  by  the  hand  of  cultiva- 
tion, and  sometimes  abandoned  to  all  their  native 
wildness. 

If  the  wind  and  weather  are  favourable,  the  visiter 
may  expect  good  sport  in  fishing ;  and  if  not,  he  may 
calculate  on  a  dinner  table  well  supplied  by  other  and 
more  fortunate  adventurers.  There  are  also  manv 
kinds  of  wild  fowl,  birds,  Lc.  in  the  neighbourhood, 
so  that  a  sportsman  may  find  great  amusement  here. 

There  is  a  house  at  the  north  end  of  the  lake,  4 
miles  from  Saratoga  Springs,  kept  by  Mr.  Green,  near 
the  ferry,  where  also  visiters  are  accommodated. 

Trout  Fishir^.  Two  miles  eastward  from  the 
Springs,  is  a  Trout  Pond,  to  which  sportsmen  fre- 
quently resort. 

The  Reading  Room.  Strangers  will  find  newspa- 
pers from  different  parts  of  the  country,  and  will  be 
able  to  supply  themselves  with  books  of  different  de* 
scriptioDE,  to  beguile  their  leisure  hours.    The  Read-; 


:;:..u;jiLiu..^!.^jii.;'!g 


ajLVi^ajs 


SARATOGA. 


159 


lOg  Room  is  at  the  Book  Store  of  Mr.  Davison,  a  little 
beyond  the  United  States  Hotel. 

A  Record  will  also  be  found  at  the  same  place*  into 
which  the  arrivals  and  departures  of  visiters  are  copied, 
once  a  daj,  fron^  the  books  of  the  four  principal 
houses.  If  any  one  expects  to  meet  a  friend  here, 
or  wishes  to  learn  whetner  he  has  already  left  Sara- 
toga, he  has  only  to  refer  to  this  list  and  look  for  his 
name. 

SCHU YLERSV ILLE,  12  m.  from  Saratoga, 

seven  miles  from  the  battle-ground.  A  stage  coach 
leaves  Saratoga  Springs  three  mornings  in  the  week, 
which  passes  through  this  place.  At  this  village  is 
the  place  where  Gen.  Buigoyne  was  forced  to  stop  on 
his  retreat,  on  account  of  the  flood  in  Fish  Creek,  the 
outlet  of  Saratoga  Lake  ;  and  at  Fort  Hardy,  which 
then  stood  on  its  banks,  he  surrendered  to  Gen.  Gates 
on  the  17th  October.  The  traces  of  his  camp  are  stili 
very  discernible,  in  embankments,  ditches,  &c.  and 
the  house  in  which  he  had  his  head-quarters  stood  till 
within  a  few  years. 

• 

Tub  British  Camp, 

one  mile  from  the  Fishkill,  and  opposite  the  Batenkill 
Creek.  From  the  hill  where  the  British  encampment 
was  formed,  a  fine  and  extensive  view  may  be  had, 
upon  the  route  towards  Bemis's  Heights.  General 
Buigoyne  occupied  the  night  of  October  8th,  and  the 
following  day,  m  getting  to  this  place,  although  it  is 
but  7  mues,  on  account  of  the  miserable  state  of  the 
roads.  Here  he  was  detained  for  several  days  by  the 
swelling  of  the  waters  of  the  creek :  and  when  he 
crossed  the  stream,  he  left  his  hospital  with  300  sick 
and  wounded,  who  were  treated  by  Gen.  Gates  with 
every  attention. 
Here  the  further  retreat  was  cut  off:  for  the  Ameri- 


mmmm 


\iiO 


Tl^C  SPBINGS. 


t 


cans  were  found  in  possession  of  the  fords  of  the  Hud- 
son. Gen.  Burgoyne  therefore  took  his  last  position  ; 
and  Gen.  Gates  formed  his  camp  behind,  while  Mor- 
gan took  post  on  the  west  and  north  of  the  British, 
and  Gen.  Fellows,  with  3000  men^  was  stationed  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  American  troops  were 
also  in  Fort  Gdward,  and  on  the  high  ground  towards 
Lake  George. 

While  remaining  in  this  situation,  the  British  were 
continually  exposed  to  the  fire  of  their  enemies,  as  well 
as  reducf'd  by  want  of  provision.  Six  days  passed 
thus ;  when  on  the  17th  of  October,  1777,  a  conven- 
tion was  signed,  and  the  army,  being  marched  to  the 
meadow  near  Old  Fort  Hardy,  piled  their  arms  and 
surrendered  prisoners  of  war,  to  the  number  of  5752 
effective,  with  528  sick  and  wounded.  This  meadow 
is  in  sight  from  the  inn. 

The  House  of  Gen,  Schuyler  stood  on  the  spot  now 
occupied  by  that  of  his  grandson.  It  was  burnt  by 
Burgoyne  on  his  retreat,  together  with  his  mills  ;  not- 
withstanding which,  the  British  officers  were  after- 
ward received  at  his  house  in  Albany,  and  treated  with 
great  kindness. 

Remarks  on  the  Routes. 

North, — Three  great  routes  from  the  Springs  to- 
wards the  north  may  be  particularized,  although  they 
run  almost  side  by  side,  and  all  unite  on  arriving  at 
Lake  Champlain.  1st,  The  fashionable  route,  to 
Caldwell,  on  Lake  Geoige.  2d,  The  Northern,  or 
Champlain  Canal.  3d,  The  road  to  Whitehall,  the 
direct  route  on  the  way  to  Montreal.* 

The  first  of  these  is  usually  travelled  by  strangers 
of  tastie  and  leisure,  as  it  conducts  directly  to  the  tine 
scenery  of  Lake  George,  and  the  battle-grounds  in  its 

♦There  also  are  two  stage  routes  to  Montreal,  one  on  each  8l«ie  of 
Lake  CIramplain.    Tbe  mall  now  coes  to  Montrea!  (taiJy. 


SASATOGA. 


101 


vicinity;  and  passes  near  several  other  spots  of  high 
interest  for  their  historical  associations,  it  is  with  a 
particular  view  to  this  route,  that  the  places  soon  to 
be  mentioned  will  be  arran^^ed  and  described.  Even 
if  a  journev  to  Montreal  is  intended,  it  can  hardly  be 
too  urgently  pressed  upon  the  stranger  to  devote  a 
leisure  day  or  two  to  Lake  Geoige  on  his  way,  as  he 
will  find  himself  most  amply  rewarded,  and  can  join 
thegreat  route  with  facility  at  Ticonderoga. 

The  second  routCj  by  the  Northern  Canal,  may  be 
met  near  the  battle'Cround  at  Bemis^s  Heights  :  but 
it  has  hitherto  offered  in  this  part  no  boat  expressly  for 
passengers.  In  fine  weather,  however,  gentlemen 
may  travel  very  pleasantly  for  a  few  miles  in  the 
common  freight  boats. 

The  i/drd  route  is  the  road  to  Whitehall,  which  is 
furnished  with  public  carriages  from  the  Springs 
during  the  warm  season,  and,  like  the  canal,  passes 
near  some  of  the  interesting  places  to  be  mentioned 
hereafter.  From  Whitehall  the  traveller  may  proceed 
down  Lake  Chainplain  in  the  daily  steamboats,  or  by 
land  in  the  mail  coach. 

East, — Travellers  wishing  to  go  to  any  part  of  the 
country  in  this  direction,  may  take  their  choice  of 
several  routes.  Lines  of  stage  coaches  run  to  Con- 
necticut river  from  Burlington,  Middlebury,  Castleton, 
and  Granville,  as  well  as  from  Troy  and  Albany,  in 
various  directions — to  Hanover,Brattleborough,  Green- 
field, i^orthampton,  Springfield,  Hartford ;  and  there 
subdividing  into  numerous  ramifications,  offer  the 
means  of  conveyance  to  every  part  of  New-England. 

To  meet  most  of  these  routes,  it  will  be  necessary 
to  proceed  to  some  point  nortli  or  south  of  the  Springs, 
for  which  public  carriages  are  established  in  several 
directions  from  Saratoga  and  Ballston,  concerning 
which,  arrangements  may  be  made  at  the  bar  of  the 
house  where  the  stranger  is  lodged. 

It  is  also  important  to  mention,  that  two  lines  of 
rnachep  run  along  the  courses  of  Hudson  River  and 


162 


BXCVBSION  TO  LAKE  GE0B6E. 


M 


Wood  Creek,  one  on  each  side  ;  and  that  the  eastern 
one  carries  the  mail  through  Castleton,  Middlebury, 
Burlington,  &c.  along  the  course  of  Lake  Champlain, 
though  generally  at  too  great  a  distance  to  command 
a  view  of  it.  The  country  there  is  very  fine,  the  vil- 
lages beautiful,  and  the  surface  frequently  mountainous. 

This  road  meets  several  of  the  eastern  roads ;  but 
the  traveller  will  probably  prefer  to  take  one  of  the 
four  steamboats,  as  he  can  land  at  the  most  important 
points. 

The  most  interesting  route  that  can  be  chosen  by  a 
man  of  taste,  from  the  Springs  to  Br  ston,  is  through 
Vermont  to  the  White  Mountains,  and  Winnipiseogee 
Lake  in  New-Hampshire.  He  may  take  what  road 
he  pleases  to  Connecticut  River. 

For  the  roads  leading  sotUh  and  west  from  the  Springs 
he  is  referred  directly  to  Ballston,  where  those  routes 
are  particularly  mentioned  and  described. 

If  he  has  never  visited  the  Battle  Ground  at  Bends' s 
Heights,  or,  as  it  is  usually  called,  of  Saratoga,  it  may 
be  recommended  to  him  to  take  that  interesting  place 
In  his  way,  and  to  refer  to  page  135  for  the  descrip- 
tion of  it. 

EXCURSION  TO  LAKE  GEORGE,  27  miles. 

This  is  by  far  the  most  delightful,  as  well  as  fashion- 
able excursion  which  can  be  made  from  the  Springs 
in  any  direction,  as  it  abounds  with  some  of  the  finest 
scenery  in  the  United  States,  and  in  numerous  sites 
and  objects  intimately  connected  with  the  history  of 
the  country. 

A  stage  coach  leaves  Saratoga  Springs  every  morn- 
ing for  Caldwell,  at  the  south  end  of  the  lake,  passing 
through  Glenn's  Falls.  ■     ■       ' 

From  the  time  of  the  earliest  wars  between  the 

.  British  colonies  and  the  French  in  Canada,  to  that  of 

1755,  the  tract  over  which  part  of  our  route  lies  was 

the  high  road  of  war.    It  was  traversed  by  many  a 


le  eastern 
ddlebury, 
lamplain, 
command 
e,  the  vil- 
untainous. 
oads;  but 
►ne  of  the 
important 

losen  by  a 
is  through 
lipiseogee 
ivhat  road 

he  Springs 
lose  routes 


■  t'-j''^'. 


,  *i .'  ' 


ry-v 


/'    \iM 


i  ,— -t^^Jfci 


«1*W» 


at  Bemis's 
^a,  it  may 
itin^  place 
le  descrip- 


7  miles. 

as  fashion- 
le  Springs 
f  the  finest 
erous  sites 
history  of 


"■'■'i^^^           ■     ■*^:;WFr*' 

'?.-'>if_  ,',       ^r.^            ■■■■    ■   :            •.        ■.  ,    .^  ■     ■ 

■;''o'  ^/K*^:? 

V?t?ii'>-,  !*^  ^'::-^i  ■:■  ■  '   :/;-■' '  •  ,  •■.;)y^i^i^>  ■;  ^■'' 

-;^^-^'' «''•■! J 

,^^#^^^:,, ^,« ;   -t.j  -'i    ,•>  .:  -vt'^Hs.;^.: 

i; 

■/■..■•   ; 


■i}    :f  v>-i';  '^f*   ..'*.:  T.,. 


^eiy  mom- 
ce,  passing 

tween  the 
,  to  that  of 
:e  lies  was 
by  many  a 


Xf-^       ':. 


^ff-f 


;h."u''}  ,.j<f'^'vf  ■■■':'!*'  ■'■■  .''''^'■'^7?  "^^  *;^, 


,    4 


.■.r..^. .    ■  .'■>  J*- 


..,.'firv^  ' 


-jvi;./    ^t^i  -".    y^^ikii:f,>^'<*r    :si'-#  •{'S^  ■, 


'^l-i^<K  .ji^. 


-  «^ 


Glenn's  falls. 


I6ii 


hostile  expedition^  in  which  the  splendour  and  ftovfer 
of  European  arms  mingled  with  the  fierce  tactics  of 
savage  warriors  :  the  ruins  df  fortresses  are  still  to  be 
traced  in  several  places,  and  tradition  points  to  many 
a  spot  that  has  been  sprinkled  with  blood.  During 
the  Revolution,  also,  some  of  the  important  events  in 
our  history,  took  place  in  this  neighoourhood.  The 
battle  of  Saratoga,  and  the  defeat  of  General  Burgoyne 
have  been  already  dwelt  upon ;  but  we  shall  have  to 
refer  more  than  once  to  bis  expedition  as  we  pass 
other  scenes  with  which  the  events  of  it  are  connected. 
Tfie  Journey  to  Montreal  may  be  made  bt/  the  way 
of  Lake  George ;  and  this  route  the  book  will  pursue, 
to  Montreal  and  Quebec,  whither  the  reader,  it  is 
hoped,  will  accompany  it. 

The  koad  from  Saratoga  to  Glenn's  Falls, 

18  miles. 

Wilton,  7  m. — Here  take  the  left-hand  road,  where 
a  small  house  stands  at  the  angle.  This  will  prove 
the  bettf^r  route,  and  meets  the  other  branch  twice,  at 
four  and  six  miles  distance.  Thirteen  miles  beyond, 
the  road  branches  off  eastward  for  Sandy  Hill. 

Half  a  mile  before  reaching  the  village,  the  road 
enters  a  rich  plain,  probably  once  overflown  by  the 
river,  which  is  now  discovered  on  the  \eii,  dividing  it 
in  its  course,  while  the  village  appears  in  front,  with 
a  handsome  church  spire,  and  a  number  of  neat  white 
houses,  all  backed  by  the  mountains,  which  here 
stretch  off  towards  the  north. 

French  Mountain  is  the  most  prominent  eminence, 
of  which  more  anon.  A  more  distant  range  is  like- 
wise seen  further  to  the  right. 

GleniCs  Falls, — If  the  traveller  is  going  on  immedi- 
ately to  the  lake,  he  should  stop  a  few  moments  on 
the  bridge,  to  see  the  falls  in  the  Hudson,  which  are 
in  full  view  below.  The  river  here  makes  a  sudden 
descent  of  37  feet,  over  a  rock  of  dark  blue  limestone. 


104 


EXCUUSION  TO  LAKE  iiEOUGiii. 


which  has  been  worn  into  so  many  forms  as  to  breal^ 
up  the  current  in  a  very  singular  manner.  The  pro- 
jection of  two  lar^  masses  of  rock  divides  the  water 
into  three  sheets  (except  when  it  is  much  swollen  by 
floods).  Of  these,  the  northern  one  is  much  the  larg- 
est, and  the  other  two  unite  and  pass  through  a  deep 
channel,  about  15  feet  wide.  A  man  jumped  off  the 
bridge  here,  twice,  a  few  years  ago,  yet  escaped 
without  serious  inj  ury.  The  most  water  passes  through 
the  other  channel.* 

A  dam  is  thrown  across  just  above  the  falls,  which 
supplies  a  Cotton  Manufactory  of  Stone  with  water, 
as  well  as  several  mills.  On  the  north  side  of  the 
river  is  a  canal,  which  is  intended  for  a  feeder  to  the 
f  t  Champlain  canal,  and  passes  along  the  elevated  bank. 
It  now  furnishes  water  tor  several  mills,  and  an  artificial 
cascade. 

The  great  flat  rock  which  supports  the  bridge,  pro- 
jects beyond  it,  and  affords  space  for  a  small  garden  on 
its  highest  part,  although  the  greater  part  of  it  is  over- 
flown in  high  floods.  Like  the  other  rocky  strata 
there,  it  has  a  gentle  dip  towards  the  south,  and  a  per- 
pendicular fracture  running  nearly  north  and  south. 

Ckivems. — Passing  through  the  garden,  and  turning 
to  the  left,  the  moutns  of  two  caverns  are  found  facing 
the  north,  in  different  places  among  the  rocks.  They 
have  heen  cut  through  by  the  rushing  of  water,  in  a 
direction  across  the  river*s  course,  and  corresponding 
with  the  natural  fracture.  The  first  is  just  large  enough 
to  permit  the  passage  of  a  man,  and  is  cut  with  sur- 
prising regularity  for  a  distance  of  about  25  feet. 
This  place  is  made  the  scene  of  some  of  the  most  in- 

*  Sandy  Hilly  3  miles  eastward. — This  viI1a<!e  is  pleasantly  situated 
.It  ttic  next  fall  in  the  river  below.  The  cascade  is  less  remarkable  as 
an  object  of  curiosity  and  interest,  but  it  is  still  worthy  of  attention  if 
the  stranger  have  sufficient  time  at  his  disposal.  He  will  find  a  pleasant 
road  onward ;  and  if  he  should  be  on  his  ^-cturn  from  Lake  George,  and 
wishes  to  visit  this  part  of  the  river,  the  f^'ld  of  Sturender,  or  the  Bat- 
tle Oround.  before  reaching  Saratoga  or  Ballston,  he  will  find  it  con- 
venient to  follow  the  course  of  the  river.    The  village  has  a  good  inn. 

For  a  description  of  the  principal  scenes  of  this  ronte.  see  In^eT*. 


FRENCH   MOUiNTAIN. 


ibo 


terestin^  chapters  of  Mr.  Cooper's  novel  of  Th£  Last  of 
the  Mohicans.  The  cavern  (perhaps  altered  since 
1767)  was  the  place  where  the  wanderers  secreted 
themselves,  and  were  made  captives.  Tlie  cavern 
conducts  to  one  of  the  river's  channels,  where  it  opens 
on  the  side  of  a  precipice,  directly  over  the  water. 
The  hanks  of  the  river  are  perpendicular  rocks  as  far 
as  can  be  seen;  and  nearly  opposite  the  caverns, 
under  the  north  bank,  is  an  abundant  spring  of  fine, 
pure  water,  which  pours  from  a  hole  in  the  rock,  a 
few  feet  from  the  surlace  of  the  river. 

About  half-way  between  this  place  and  Sandy  Hilt, 
a  convoy  of  wagons  was  attacked  in  the  French  war, 
on  their  way  to Xake  George. 

Nearly  north  of  Glenn's  Falls,  is  Luzerne  Mountain  ; 
and  a  little  to  the  right  of  it,  French  Mountain.  Be- 
tween them  passes  the  road  to  Lake  George.  Towards 
the  west,  a  range  of  high  hills  encloses  the  view,  and 
in  the  east,  the  Vermont  Mountains  make  a  fine  ap- 
pearance. 

Near  the  foot  of  French  Mountain  is  a  small  tavern, 
on  the  east  side  of  the  road ;  and  near  this  place  Gen. 
Dieskau's  advanced  guard  struck  the  route  from  Glenn's 
Falls  and  Fort  Edward  to  Fort  William  Henry.  The 
v^Mey  through  which  we  pass  is  narrow  for  some  dis- 
tance beyond ;  and  after  about  half  an  hour's  ride  (for 
there  are  no  mile  stones),  a  little  circular  pond  is  dis- 
covered on  the  east  side,  and  close  by  the  road.  It  is 
generally  almost  concealed  vvith  water  plants. 

This  was  near  the  place  of  action  between  Colonel 
Williams  and  General  Dieskau.  The  latter  had  ex- 
tended his  troops  across  the  path,  and  advanced  his 
wings  some  distance  in  front,  the  left  wing  occupying 
the  rising  ground  on  the  west  side  of  the  road  near 
this  place.  A  small  cleared  spot  may  be  noticed  on 
the  other  side,  a  little  beyond  the  pond  (in  1825  a  hut 
stood  upon  it),  that  is  said  to  have  been  the  principal 
scene  of  action  ;  and  a  singular  rock  near  by  is  pointed 
out  by  tradition  as  the  mark  of  Col.  Williams's  grave. 


1()6 


£XCXIlSION   TO  LAKE   CEOUtii:. 


; 


M 


This,  however,  is  considered  very  doubtful ;  by  others, 
it  is  said  that  he  ascended  the  rock  to  reconnoitre, 
and  viras  shot  from  its  summit.    {^Page  ^'/O.) 

The  little  pond  above  mentioned  was  the  place 
where  most  otthe  dead  were  thrown,  and  it  bears  the 
name  of  Bloody  Pond  to  this  day.  It  is  probably 
much  smaller  than  formerly.  In  1825  the  skeleton  of 
a  man  was  dug  vy  from  a  depth  of  one  and  a  half  feet, 
near  the  pond,  with  a  marble  pipe,  and  some  silver- 
eyed  buttons  bearing  the  royal  stamp.  This  pond  is 
nearly  circular,  and  is  covered,  in  its  season,  with 
the  Pond  Lily  (Nymphea  Alba),  which  expands  its 
flowers  on  the  surface  of  the  water. 

About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  beyond  this  place,  is  a 
fine  view  of 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


■;* 


Coming  to  the  brow  of  a  hieh  hill,  the  prospect 
opens,  and  the  lake  appears,  enclosed  by  mountains, 
many  of  which,  at  this  distance,  are  of  a  deep  blue. 
The  side  of  French  Mountain  is  near  at  hand  on  the 
east,  covered  with  thick  trees  to  the  summit ;  while 
the  smoothness  of  the  lake,  the  beauty  of  its  nearest 
shore,  with  the  neat  white  buildings  ofCaldwell,  com- 
municate to  the  scene  a  degree  of  beauty  and  seclu- 
sion, which  can  hardly  be  found  in  any  other  spot. 
Directly  at  the  south  end  of  Lake  George,  are  the 
remains  of  Forts  Geoi^e  and  William  Heniy,  famous 
in  the  history  of  the  French  war ;  and  on  the  site  of 
the  former  was  General  Johnson's  camp,  when  he  was 
attacked  by  Dieskau.  The  particulars  of  the  action 
will  be  given  hereafter. 

Caldwell. 

The  village  of  Caldwell  is  the  place  at  which  the 
visiter  will  stop  to  take  a  view  of  this  charming  lake, 
and  from  which  he  will  make  his  excursions  across  its 


|r  others, 
)nnoitre, 

e  place 
tears  the 
»robably 
ileton  of 
alf  feet, 
B  silver- 
pond  is 
>n>  with 
•ands  its 

Lce,  is  a 

)rospect 
untains, 
p  blue. 

on  the 
;  while 
nearest 
11,  com- 
1  seclu- 
spot, 
are  the 
famous 

site  of 
he  was 

action 


33 


33 

5 


ich  the 
g  lake, 
ross  its 


>^^ 


0  »  •'*<•• 


*0* 


mmm 


.%  '' 


LAKE   GEOUGE. 


1(57 


beautiful  waters.  The  village  stands  at  the  south  end 
of  the  lake,  and  on  its  shore,  commanding  a  fine  view 
of  the  neighbouring  sheet  of  water  and  the  mountains 
by  which  it  is  almost  enclosed.  The  inn  to  which 
strangers  resort,  occupies  a  spot  peculiarly  fitted  to 
grati^  the  eye  of  taste,  as  it  overlooks  the  lake  for 
several  miles,  and  the  view  is  not  interrujpted  by  any 
neighbouring  obstacle.  A  more  delightful  place  can 
hardly  be  found  in  the  Uniied  States,  for  the  tempo- 
rary residence  of  one  who  takes  delight  in  scenery  of 
this  description,  and  loves  to  recur  to  deeds  long  past, 
and  to  exploits  great  in  themselves  and  important  in 
their  results  even  to  the  present  day. 

Lake  George  is  34  miles  long,  and  its  greatiest 
breadth  4.  At  the  south  end  it  is  only  about  one  mile 
broad.  The  greatest  depth  is  sixty  fathoms.  The 
water  is  remarkable  for  its  purity — a  fish  or  a  stone 
may  be  seen  at  the  depth  of  20  or  30  feet.  It  is  un- 
doubtedly supplied  by  springs  from  below,  as  the 
water  is  coldest  near  the  bottom.  It  contains  trout» 
bass,  and  perch.  There  are  deer  in  the  neirhbouring^ 
forest.  The  outlet  which  leads  to  Lake  Cnamplain 
contains  three  large  falls  and  rapids.  The  lake  never 
rises  more  than  two  feet. 

The  three  best  points  of  view  are  at  Fort  George, 
a  place  north  of  Shelving  Rock,  14  miles,  and  another 
at  Sabbath  Day  Point,  21  miles  from  the  head  of  the 
lake.  The  last  view  is  taken  southward,  the  other 
two  northward. 

This  beautiful  basin,  with  its  pure  crystal  water, 
is  bounded  by  two  ranges  of  mountains,  which,  in 
som*»  places  rising  with  a  bold  and  hasty  ascent  from 
the  water,  and  in  others  descending  with  a  graceful 
sweep  from  a  great  height  to  a  broad  and  level  mar- 
gin, furnish  it  with  a  charming  variety  of  scenery, 
which  every  change  of  weather,  as  well  as  every 
change  of  position,  presents  in  new  and  countless 
beauties.  The  intermixture  of  cultivation  with  the 
wild  scenes  of  nature  is  extremely  agreeable  ;  and 


168 


EXCURSION   TO  LAKE    GE0U6E. 


the  undulating;  surface  of  the  well-tilled  farm  is  often 
contrasted  with  the  deep  shade  of  the  native  forest^ 
and  the  naked,  weather-beaten  cliffs^  where  no  vege- 
tation can  dwell. 

The  situation  of  the  hotel  is  delightful,  surpassing 
that  of  almost  every  other  to  be  found  in  this  part  of 
the  country.  The  traveller  may  hereafter  take  plea- 
sure in  comparing  the  scene  enjoyed  from  his  window, 
with  those  he  may  witness  from  the  walls  of  Qjuebec, 
Masonic  Hall  at  Montreal,  and  Forsyth's  at  Niaf^ara. 
The  house  is  very  large,  having  been  increased  wjlhin 
a  year  or  two  by  the  addition  of  a  long  wing,  three 
stories  high,  so  that  it  is  now  capable  of  furnishing 
lodgings  for  one  hundred  persons,  and  the  apartments 
are  so  aiTanged,  that  half  of  them  look  out  upon  the 
lake.  Affreen  and  handsome  slope  descends  about 
200  yards  to  the  very  mai^in,  where  there  is  no 
obstruction  but  a  few  trees  ind  scattering  buildings. 
There  is  the  wharf,  at  which  the  steamboat  receives 
and  lands  her  passengers,  often  adding  much  variety 
to  the  place  by  an  addition  of  company.  The  dis- 
charge of  the  signal  gun  makes  fine  echoes  among  the 
mountains  in  a  cMear  ni^ht. 

The  lake  is  here  al)out  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
wide,  and  the  range  of  mountains  opposite,  which  are 
high  and  uninterrupted,  are  quite  uncultivated,  with 
th»*  exception  of  a  few  farms  near  the  shore  ;  the 
other  parts  being  covered  with  trees  almost  to  the 
water. 

On  the  right  is  seen  the  south  end  of  the  lake,  which 
is  formed  of  low  land  for  some  distance  back,  suc- 
ceeded by  French  Mountain  in  the  rear.  On  a  little 
point,  half  covered  with  trees,  and  rising  only  about 
25  feet  above  the  water,  is  the  site  of  Fort  William 
Henry  ;  and  about  a  mile  towards  the  south-east  from 
it,  on  a  considerable  elevation,  are  the  ruins  of  Fort 
George.  For  the  history  of  these  once  important  little 
fortresses,  see  pajje  170. 


LAKJ:  GROUUE. 


]fr'J 


Excursions  on  the  Lake,  Fishing,  Im« 


iGareTcept  at 


/^^^t 


Boais  arelcept  at  the  wharf  to  convey  passengers 
to  any  part  of  the  neighbouring  shores  and  islands. 
Fine  perch,  or  black  bass,  (Perca  Franklinia)^  are 
caught  in  abundance  almost  every  where  ;  and  trout, 
at  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream  near  the  south  end. 
Fishing  rods  and  tackle  may  be  obtained  at  the  hotel ; 
and  a  variety  of  other  fish  are  to  be  found. 

Diamotid  Island  is  a  few  miles  down  the  lake,  and 
is  famous  for  abounding  in  crystals  of  quartz,  which  are 
found  in  a  loose  rock  by  digging  a  little  under  the  sur- 
face. They  are  found,  however,  in  egual  numbers  in 
several  of  the  other  islands ;  and  it  is,  after  all,  the 
easier  way  to  purchase  them,  and  not  to  permit  the 
labour  of  searching  for  them  to  interfere  with  the  plea- 
sure of  the  excursion,  particularly  as  that  labour  is 
often  ineffectual.  A  poor  family  lived  on  Diamond 
Island,  subsisting  partly  on  a  small  spot  of  tilled  land, 
and  partly  on  the  produce  of  the  crystals  sold  to 
visiters. 

Tea  Island  J  about  2  miles  down  the  lake,  is  another 
favourite  retreat.  The  little  bay  in  which  the  boats 
land  is  remarkably  retired  and  beautiful,  and  there 
is  an  old  hut  standing  which  affords  something  of  a 
shelter. 

Long  Island  contains  about  100  acres,  and  has  been 
inhabited  and  cultivated.  Besides  these,  there  are 
many  other  islands  on  the  neighbouring  parts  of  the 
lake ;  and  those  who  are  fond  of  such  excursions 
would  be  highly  delighted  with  devoting  several  days 
to  visit  them.  The  finest  cluster  is  in  the  Narrows, 
about  12  miles  distant.  These  will  be  spoken  of 
hereafter. 

One  steamboat  usually  goes  three  times  a  week  to 
the  north  end  of  the  lake  :  but  is  always  ready  to  per- 


170 


EXCURSION  TO  LAKE  OEOHOE. 


form  that  exc  "sion,  and  will  take  a  party  of  twenty 
or  more  for  $1  each. 

West  of  the  village  is  a  remarkable  conical  eminence, 
called  Rattlesnakes^  Cobble^  or  Prospect  Hill.  This,  as 
well  as  the  mountains  bej^ond  it,  is  the  habitation  of 
bears  and  deer,  and  much  infested  with  rattlesnakes. 
The  view  from  the  top  is  very  fine.  It  is  the  place 
from  which  Hawk-eye,  in  the  **  Last  of  the  Mohicans," 
leads  his  companions  into  Fort  William  Henry  through 
the  mist. 

The  French  Approaches.  The  village  of  Caldwell 
is  of  recent  date.  In  the  French  war,  during  the  siege 
of  Fort  William  Henry,  the  ground  which  it  now  occu- 
pies was  crossed  by  the  trenches  and  batteries  with 
which  Montcalm  finally  succeeded  in  forcing  the  capi- 
tulation of  that  little  fortress. 

The  place  where  he  landed  with  his  army  is  the 
little  cove  just  behind  the  new  stone  building,  a  few 
steps  north  of  the  hotel.  He  erected  his  battery  near 
the  shore,  and  ran  his  first  trench  across  the  street  into 
the  fields  in  front  of  the  hotel.  The  remains  may  still 
be  traced,  as  well  as  the  marks  of  a  small  mortar  bat- 
tery, near  the  bars  of  a  fence  leading  to  a  small  house. 
Another  line  runs  to  the  bank  of  the  lake,  on  this  side 
of  the  brook,  where  was  also  a  battery ;  and  another 
borders  the  swamp  to  the  right,  and  another  turns 
southward  along  the  high  ground.  Behind  this,  in  a 
pine  wood,  are  the  graves  of  about  1000  French  sol- 
diers, who  died  in  the  fort. 


Battle  of  Lake  George. 

In  1755,  the  year  after  the  commencement  of  the 
French  War,  3000  men  were  sent  out  from  France  to 
Qyebec,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  Oswego  Fort.  This 
was  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oswego  or  Onon- 
dago  River,  and  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Ontario.  The 
position  derived  its  consequence  from  circumstances 
which  no  longer  exi^t :  the  Indian  trade  from  up  th^ 


JEiATTLU   OF   LAKE   G£OfiO£. 


I7i 


Lakes,  the  facility  of  communication  with  the  Five 
Nations  through  that  place,  and  the  peculiar  nature  of 
the  shores  of  Lake  Ontario,  which  would  not  permit 
navigation  (by  canoes)  on  the  other  side.  There  the 
two  great  branches  of  Indian  trade  concentrated  ;  and 
the  nation  which  held  possession  of  the  point  neces- 
sarily swayed  a  great  influence  over  the  Indians  them- 
selves :  an  advantage  frequently  of  still  greater  impor- 
tance to  the  country.  Oswego  Fort  naturally  f)ecame 
an  object  both  to  the  French  and  the  English  at  that 
time,  and  it  formed  a  prominent  figure  in  the  history 
of  the  war.  The  English  being  in  possession  of  that 
little  fortress  at  the  commencement  of  hostilities,  its 
defence  might  doubtless  have  been  easily  secured, 
had  their  operations  been  conducted  with  common 
prudence  and  enei^y.  Unfortunately,  they  were  con- 
ducted in  a  very  different  manner ;  and  whoever  would 
see  a  clear  and  able  history  of  the  first  English  expe^ 
dilions  in  that  war,  and  of  the  political  party  spirit 
which  then  ruled  in  this  country  and  rendered  them 
worse  than  ineffectual,  is  referred  to  "  A  Letter  to  a 
Lord,'^  written  soon  after. 

In  1755,  Gen.  Johnson,  (afterward  Sir  William,) 
marched  to  the  south  end  of  Lake  George  with  a  con- 
siderable number  of  men,  joined  by  the  famous  Capt. 
Hendrick,  with  many  Indians  of  the  Five  Nations,  m- 
tending  to  take  Fort  Frederick,  now  Crown  Point. 
Gen.  Dieskau  was  sent  to  oppose  him,  with  3000  men, 
principally  taken  from  a  body  of  French  troops  sent 
out  to  Qjuebec,  600  of  whom  had  fallen  into  tile  hands 
of  Admiral  Boscawen  at  sea.  Dieskau  bad  first  de- 
signed to  besiege  Fort  Oswego.  At  Fort  Frederick, 
or  Crown  Point,  he  remained  some  time,  and  then  de- 
termined to  go  and  meet  the  English.  He  therefore 
went  up  the  South  Bay,  where,  learning  the  situation 
of  Fort  Lyman  (now  Fort  Edward,)  he  wished  to 
attack  it  and  cut  off  the  retreat  of  Gen.  Johnson.  The 
Indians  and  Canadians,  however,  were  in  dread  of  the 


■Hi 


172 


EXCURSION    3?0   LAKE    OEOUGi:. 


cannon  with  which  it  was  supposed  to  be  defended, 
and  he  was  obliged  to  march  apinst  Jolinson. 

Sunday,  Sept.  7th,  at  midnight,  a  scout  brought 
Johnson  intelligence  that  Dieskau  was  coming.  1200 
men  were  sent  out  in  the  morning,  under  the  command 
of  Col.  Ephraim  Williams,  who  met  them  at  Rocky 
Brook,  drawn  up  in  a  semicircle,  into  which  the 
English  entered  uefore  they  knew  it.  A  heavy  fire 
from  three  sides  first  showed  them  the  position  oi  their 
enemies.  The  English  stood  their  ground  valiantly  ; 
but  Col.  Williams  and  Hendrick  being  both  shot  down, 
together  with  many  others,  they  were  obliged  to  be- 
gin their  retreat,  which  was  conducted  by  Col.  Whi- 
ting with  the  greatest  coolness  and  success. 

The  centre  of  the  English  army  was  posted  on  the 
hill  where  the  ruins  of  Fort  George  now  are  ;  and  the 
French  were  discovered  by  them  at  half  past  11. 
Dieskau  halted  at  the  sight  of  his  enemies,  probably 
entertaining  some  mistaken  idea  of  the  strength  of 
their  position,  and  gave  them  time  to  recover  from 
their  panic.  The  ground  on  both  sides  of  the  English 
camp  was  marshy  and  covered  with  trees,  and  Dies- 
kau sent  his  Indians  out  on  the  right  fiank  and  the 
Canadians  on  the  left,  to  surround  them.  Col.  Pome- 
roy,  however,  soon  put  the  former  to  flight  with  a  few 
cannon  shots.  Dieskau  then  brought  up  his  troops  in 
front,  and  made  them  fire  by  platoons,  but  with  very 
little  effect.  Gen.  Johnson  (happily  for  his  own  troops) 
was  slightly  wounded  in  tne  thigh,  and  had  to  walk 
back  tc^  his  tent,  leaving  the  command  with  Gen. 
Lyman.  He  directed  the  defence  for  five  hours,  aided 
by  Capt.  Eyre's  artillery ;  when  the  French  turned 
upon  the  English  right,  which  consisted  of  Kuggles'g, 
Portieroy's,  and  Tittecomb's  reatmenis,  and  extended 
from  the  road  to  wh«re  Fort  William  Henry  was  after- 
ward built.  Here  they  fought  an  hour,  but  the 
English  and  Indians  charging  them,  they  took  to 
flight  and  many  were  killed.    Gen.  Dieskau  himself 


UASSACRE   AT  FORT  \eiJXIAM   UBNBY.        11  o 

was  found  leaning  against  a  stump  wounded-^a  sol- 
dier approaching  saw  him  put  his  hand  to  his  waist, 
to  take  out  his  watch,  whicii  he  intended  to  offer  to 
him,  and  supposing  he  was  drawing  a  pistol,  shot 
him  through  the  tbieb.  He  was  carried  to  the  fort 
by  eight  men  in  a  blanket,  and  it  i^  said  deterred 
Johnson  from  ordering  a  pursuit,  by  saying  he  had  a 
strong  force  near  at  hand.  Gen.  Lyman  urged  to  fol- 
low up  their  victory  ;  but  that  was  probably  a  suffi- 
cient reason  for  its  being  refused  by  a  superior  officer, 
who  looked  upon  his  great  talents  with  jealousy,  and, 
in  spite  of  the  advantage  the  country  had  derived 
from  his  services,  at  a  time  when  they  were  pecu- 
liarly valuable,  did  not  even  mention  the  name  of  Gen. 
Lyman  in  his  account  of  the  battle ! — Johnson  was 
made  a  Baronet,  ami  Lyman  lingered  out  a  few  years 
in  poverty  and  disappomtment,  and  died  without  re- 
ceiving even  the  notice  of  the  British  government. 

The  £nglish  are  said  to  have  lost  CHiIy  SI 6  in  killed 
and  96  wounded.  Gen.  Dieskau  estimated  his  own 
loss  at  1000 — the  English  called  it  much  less.  The 
principal  were  a  major-general,  and  M.  de  St.  Pierre, 
the  commander  of  the  Indians.  The  French  lost  their 
baggage  during  the  action,  left  two  miles  in  their  rear^ 
it  being  attacked  (»y  Captains  Folsom  and  M'Ginnies 
with  Jibout  100  New-York  troops ;  who  then  lay  in 
>vait  for  the  retreating  French,  and  killed  great  num- 
bers of  them. 

Gen.  Johnson  might  have  taken  Crown  Point ;  but 
he  delayed  it  so  long,  that  the  French  advanced  to 
Ticonderoga  and  there  fortified  themselves  securely. 

The  Capture  and  Massacre  op  Fort  William 

Henry. 

So  different  was  the  state  of  the  country  sixhr  years 
ago,  and  so  much  in  its  infancy  was  the  art  of  war  in 
these  wild  regions,  tha-  a  small  work  of  earth  thrown 
up  on  this  site,  and  called  Fort  William  Henry,  was 


: 


it 


174 


£XCVBSIOM   TO   LAKB    GEOliOE. 


regarded  as  a  fortress  of  considerable  strength  and  con* 
seguence. 

in  1767,  the  Earl  of  Loudon,  British  Commander-in- 
Chief  in  America,  made  an  unsuccessful  attemot  by 
sea  against  Louisburg ;  and  before  his  return  to  New- 
York  in  August,  the  French  from  Ticonderoga,  under 
the  Marquis  de  Montcalm,  had  made  three  attacks  on 
Fort  William  Henry.  On  the  1st  of  August  they  set 
out  again,  and  landed  at  Frenchman's  Point.  On  the 
evening  of  the  2d,  they  crossed  to  the  west  side  of 
Lake  George,  within  two  miles  of  the  Fort,  and  the 
next  morning  sent  in  their  summons.  Col.  Monroe 
defended  himself  resolutely  for  six  days,  hoping  relief 
from  Gen.  Webb  and  his  6000  men  at  Fort  Edward ; 
but  having  waited  in  vain,  and  burst  ten  of  his  largest 
cannon,  he  was  obliged  to  surrender,  and  marcned 
out  with  the  honours  of  war  and  an  assurance  of  being 
protected  from  the  Indians  in  Montcalm's  army. 

He  had  gone  but  a  little  way,  however,  when  the 
savages  fell  upon  hi<i  troops  and  butchered  about  1500, 
men,  women,  and  children. 

Gen.  Webb's  conduct  was  most  inhuman.  The  pro- 
vincial troops  were  kept  under  arms  for  one  whole 
day  after  the  news  of  the  siege  arrived  at  Fort  Ed- 
ward, and  Sir  William  Johnson  was  very  desirous  to 
march  with  them  to  its  relief;  but  Webb  ordered  them 
back  to  their  quarters,  and  sent  a  messenger  to  Col. 
Monroe  advising  him  to  surrender. 

*         Atta(;k  on  Fort  Ticonderoga. 

The  south  end  of  Lake  George  was  the  scene  of  a 
splendid  embarkation  on  the  4th  of  July  of  the  follow- 
ing year  [1758],  when  10,000  provincial  troops,  and 
6  or  7000  regulars  assembled  at  this  place  to  proceed 
against  Ticonderoga.*    1035  boats  were  drawn  up  to 

*  Lord  Howe,  who  accompnnied  this  expedition,  was  a  young  noble- 
man of  amiable  dispoRitlon  and  the  most  prepossessing  manners,  and 
was  almost  id/»lizp(f  by  tho  firniy,  as  well  ns  ndniirfd  and  loved  by  the 
p.-iiintrv. 


ATTACK   OK   TIC0T<D£I10GA. 


175 


the  shore  one  clear  delightful  summer  morning,  and 
"were  speedily  filled  with  this  powerful  army,  except- 
ing only  a  small  body  lefl  with  the  baggage.  Success 
was  confidently  expected,  and  the  appearance  of  the 
train  was  more  like  that  of  a  triumphant  return  from 
war.  The  boats  were  decorated  with  gaudy  streamers, 
and  the  oars  moved  to  martial  music.  The  traveller 
will  follow  their  route  in  the  steamboat,  for  which  see 
below. 

They  landed  at  the  north  end  of  the  lake  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  and  were  ordered  to  march  on  in  four 
columns.  The  obstructions  of  the  forest  however  soon 
broke  their  ranks  ^  when  Lord  Howe,  with  his  centre 
column,  falling  in  with  the  enemy's  advance  guard, 
who  were  on  their  retreat  and  bewildered,  was  at- 
tacked with  a  sudden  war  whoop  and  immediately 
killed.  The  provincials  were  accustomed  to  the 
woods,  and  drove  back  their  enemies,  killing  about 
300,  and  taking  148  prisoners,  and  all  returned  to  the 
landing.  In  the  morning.  Col.  Bradstreet  took  pos- 
session of  the  mill  at  the  great  falls  on  the  river,  and 
the  army  were  soon  brought  up  to  the  French  lines, 
which  were  thrown  up  across  the  isthmus  and  not 
finished.  This  intrenchment  is  still  to  be  seen  in  tole- 
rable preservation.  It  had  two  redoubts  and  a  deep 
abattis,  and  is  said  to  have  been  8  or  9  feet  high, 
though  that  seems  improbable.  The  attack  was 
vigorous,  and  the  defence  obstinate.  The  battle  con- 
tinued four  hours,  during  which  the  English  were  re- 
pulsed three  times.  The  Highland  regiment  distin- 
s^uished  itself,  and  suffered  severely.  The  English 
loss,  in  all,  was  1944,  principally  regulars ;  the  French 
very  trifling,  although  they  are  said  not  to  have  ima- 
gined the  defence  possible.  Their  force  is  differently 
stated  from  1200  to  6000.  Notwithstanding  his  supe- 
riority of  force,  Abercrombie  shamefully  ordered  a 
retreat ;  and  thus  terminated  the  operations  of  the 
year.  ,  .     _  ,  .       . 


170      EXCURSION  TO  LAKE  0£OKG£. 


Voyage  down  Lake  Geohge. 

Leaving  Caldwell,  and  passing  Mr.  CaldwelFs  bouse 
at  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  the  steamboat  passes  Tea  Island^ 
Diannond,  Long,  and  other  islands,  particularly  the 
Two  Sisters ;  and  then  the  lake  becomes  wider,  and 
the  surface  more  uninterrupted,  the  course  of  the  boat 
being  directljr  towards  a  remarkable  eminence,  with  a' 
double  summit,  called  Tongue  Mountain.  That  which 
partl3r  shuts  it  in  from  this  direction  on  the  right,  is 
Shelving  Rack ;  and  Black  Mountaiii  &i}ows  its  rounded 
summit  beyond  it,  a  little  to  the  right.  This  last  is 
supposed  to  be  about  2200  feet  high,  and  is  considered 
the  nighest  mountain  on  the  lake. 

Twdve  Mile  Island  appears  to  be  at  the  foot  of 
Tongue  Mountain,  and  is  seen  just  ahead  for  a  great 
distance  after  leaving  Caldwell.  It  is  of  a  singularly- 
rounded  form,  covered  with  trees,  with  the  utmost  re- 
gularity, and  protected  from  the  washing  of  the  waves 
by  a  range  of  large  stones  along  the  shore,  so  well  dis« 
posed  as  to  seem  like  a  work  of  art. 

A  rich  and  cultivated  slope  is  seen  on  the  western 
shore;  before  reaching  Tongue  Mountain,  which  be- 
longs to  a  new  township. 

The  Naekovvs. 

The  lake  is  very  much  contracted  where  it  passes 
between  the  mountains  just  mentioned,  and  their  sur- 
face is  for  several  miles  broken  by  innumerable  islands. 
These  are  of  various  sizes,  but  generally  very  small, 
and  of  little  elevation.  A  few  of  them  are  named,  as 
Green,  Bass,  Lone-tree  islands.  Some  of  them  are 
covered  with  trees,  others  with  shrubs,  some  show 
little  lawns  or  spots  of  grass,  heaps  of  barren  rocks,  or 
gently  sloping  shores;  and  most  of  them  are  orna- 
mented with  graceful  pines,  hemlocks,  and  other  tall 
trees,  collected  in  groups,  or  standing  alone,  and  dis- 


'ell*s  bouse 
Pea  Island^ 
:ularfy  the 
ivider,  and 
of  the  boat 
ice,  with  a' 
^hat  which 
le  right,  is 
ts  rounded 
his  last  i5 
considered 

the  foot  of 
fur  a  great 
singularly 
utmost  re- 
i  the  waves 
o  well  dis- 

le  western 
which  be- 


it  passes 
their  sur- 
le  islands, 
ery  small, 
lamed,  as 
them  are 
me  show 
rocks,  or 
are  orna- 
other  tall 
u  and  dis- 


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M 


LAKE    t;E0iii3^l!:. 


17i 


podod  vvitti  iru^t  charming  variety.  Sometimes  an 
island  will  be  observed  just  large  enough  to  support 
a  few  fine  tree.s,  or  perhaps  a  single  one,  while  the 
next  may  appear  like  a  solid  mass  of  bushes  and  wild 
flowers ;  near  at  hand,  perhaps,  is  a  third,  with  a  dark 
grove  of  pines,  and  a  decaying  old  trunk  in  front  of  it ; 
and  thus,  through  every  interval  between  the  islands 
as  you  pass  along,  another  and  another  labyrinth  is 
opened  to  view,  among  little  isolated  spots  of  ground, 
divided  by  narrow  channels,  from  which  it  seems  im- 
possible for  a  person  who  should  have  entered  them, 
ever  to  find  his  wa^  out.  Some  of  the  islands  look 
almost  like  ships  with  their  masts ;  and  many  have  an 
air  of  lightness  as  if  they  were  sailing  upon  the  lake. 

After  passing  the  Narrows,  the  lake  widens  again, 
and  the  retrospect  is,  for  several  miles,  through  that 
passage,  with  Tongue  Mountain  on  the  west,  and 
Black  Mountain  opposite,  the  Luzerne  range  appearing 
at  a  great  distance  oetween  them.  The  mountains  in 
view  have  generally  rounded  summits  ;  but  the  sides 
are  in  many  places  broken  by  precipitous  ledges. 
They  are  inhabited  by  wolves,  deer,  rattlesnakes,  &c. 

Sabbath  Day  Point. — This  is  a  low  neck  of  land, 
stretching  into  the  lake  from  the  Western  shore,  and 
containing  the  little  village  of  Hague.  That  on  the 
opposite  shore  is  Putnam. 

On  Sabbath  Day  Point,  Lord  Amherst,  with  his 
numerous  host,  stopped  for  refreshment  upon  the 
morning  of  the  Sabbath,  and  gave  this  beautiful  point 
the  name  by  which  it  is  now  known :  it  is  a  charming 
.«pot,  and  susceptible  of  the  greatest  embellishment. 

Rogers'  Rock  and  Anthony's  Nose. 

These  are  two  mountains  at  which  the  lake  again 
contracts  itself  to  pass  between  them.  The  shores  ot" 
the  lake  still  continue  elevated,  and  but  a  few  cult:- 
vated  farms  are  distinguishable  here  and  there.    An- 

f honv'p  Nose  presents  a  precipice,  on  the  eastern  Fhorr. 

(I 


178 


EXCUBSION   TO  LAKE   GKOliiiH. 


I 


as  we  enter  the  strait ;  and  the  firing  of  a  sun  pioduoeM 
a  fine  echo.  Rogers'  Rocky  or  Rogers'  Slide  is  a  still 
more  formidable  one,  on  the  other  hand,  a  little  further 
on.  The  last  retrospect  up  the  lake  is  still  very  line, 
even  from  this  pomt — Black  Mountain  being  yet 
clearly  to  be  seen. 

Rogers'  Slide  has  its  name  from  Capt.  Rogers,  a 
partisan  officer,  who  distinguished  himself  m  the 
French  war  by  his  boldness,  activity,  and  success. 
He  commanded  an  expedition  which  left  Crown  Point 
m  the  year  1756,  against  the  Canadian  frontiers,  and 
cut  oflf  the  Indian  village  of  St.  Francis,  afterward 
returning',  with  the  severest  hardships,  by  the  way  of 
Connecticut  river.  Tradition  says,  that  he  was,  at 
another  time,  closely  pursued  by  a  party  of  Indians, 
and  forced  to  retreat  to  the  verge  of  this  mountain. 
Finding  no  other  way  to  escape,  he  descended  half 
down  by  the  ravine  which  opens  towards  the  south, 
and  then  by  a  sudden  turn  came  to  the  east  side, 
where  is  a  precipice  about  two  hundred  feet  high  of 
smooth  rock,  and  nearly  r  dpendicular,  down  which 
which  he  s^^pped  upon  nis  snow  shoes  to  the  lake, 
escaping  upon  the  ice.  The  water  is  deep  at  the  bot- 
tom, and  fine  trout  are  caught  there  with  a  long  line. 

The  lake  here  assumes  the  appearance  of  a  narrow 
pond  for  three  or  four  miles,  and  seems  closed  at  both 
ends.  The  ground  is  stil!  elevated  on  both  sides,  but 
hills  have  succeeded  to  mountains,  and  some  of  these 
are  at  length  overtopped  by  Black  Mountain,  which, 
although  at  such  a  distance,  at  length  makes  its  ap- 
pearance again,  and  continues  in  si^ht.  The  lake  at 
length  diminishes  to  a  very  narrow  stream,  and  the 
bottom  becomes  gradually  covered  n-ith  weeds. 

Ijord  Howe^s  Landing  is  just  behind  an  isbnd  ol 
three  acres,  on  the  left-hand  at  the  entrance  of  the 
creek.  Here  is  the  spot  where  the  unfortunate  expe- 
dition of  Abercrombie  effected  their  landing,  and  on 
the  island  they  established  their  hospital,  on  their  way 
io  the  attack  of  Ticonderoga. 


wn  produces 
de  i8  at  stiil 
little  further 
11  very  fine, 
being  yet 

-  Rogers,  a 
elf  in  the 
nd  success, 
rown  Point 
jnliers,  and 
I  afterward 
the  way  of 
he  was,  at 
of  Indians, 

mountain, 
ended  half 

the  south, 

east  side, 
et  high  of 
wn  which 

the  lake, 
Jt  the  bot- 
ong  line. 

a  narrow 
2d  at  both 
sides,  but 
3  of  these 
Hy  which, 
3S  its  ap- 
le  lake  at 
•  and  the 
ds. 

island  of 
;e  of  the 
»te  expcs 
f,  and  on 
heir  wav 


T 


"»^ 


fj 


1 

© 

y 

N 


TIC07a>EB0GA. 


179 


-1 


The  steamboat  passes  on  some  distance  beyond  this 
place,  and  lands  her  passengers  on  the  other  side, 
where,  at  her  regular  voyages,  carriages  are  found  in 
wailing  to  convey  them  to  Ticonderoga,  three  miles, 
Over  a  rough  roaa. 

Those  who  intend  to  take  a  steamboat  on  Lake 
Champlain,  should  be  careful  to  inquire  the  hour  when 
it  passes,  and  regulate  their  time  accordingly.  Ticon- 
deroga ^as  become  one  of  the  stopping  places,  which 
will  prove  a  great  convenience  to  the  numerous  tra- 
vellers attracted  to  this  interesting  spot. 

Abercrombie's  army  passed  for  some  part  of  the  way 
along  the  route  we  travel.  Passing  the  Upper  Falls, 
which  are  the  highest,  he  forded  the  creek  above  the 
second.  At  the  Falls  near  the  bridge  which  we  cross, 
just  above  the  sawmills,  was  a  stone  blockhouse; 
and  there  was  a  redoubt  on  the  north  side  of  the  stream 
near  the  bridge,  where,  as  in  several  other  places, 
there  was  some  fighting  to  carry  the  French  outposts. 

At  the  Upper  Falls  are  several  valuable  sawmills 
and  forges,  and  the  scenery  is  highly  picturesque. 

THE  FORTRESS  OF  TICONDEROGA. 

. .  ?  IS  famous  old  fortress,  or  rather  its  remains,  are 
d  /(n  tly  seen  from  Lake  Champlain, though, from  the 
dirtcir^R  by  which  we  approach  it,  they  are  discovered 
only  at  a  short  distance.  An  elevated  piece  of  land, 
gently  sloping  towards  the  south,  and  ending  abruptly 
over  a  bend  of  the  lake,  appears,  partially  covered  with 
trees,  and  crowned  near  its  extremity  with  a  cluster 
of  broken  walls  and  chimneys.  There  is  a  nteadow 
on  the  eastern  .,ide,  running  to  the  base  of  the  ridee, 
and  across  this  is  a  footpatl:  from  the  ferry  to  the  fort 
')y  the  nearest  way.  A  carriage  road  also  leads  from 
the  ferr)'  to  the  riclge..  and  thence  down  to  the  ^amo 
plaro. 


tii^>  ROUTE  TO  f'A^'ADA. 


The  Old  FuEjfGH  tiNEs, 

where  General  Abercrombie  was  defeated  in  1758,  ail^ 
the  onl^  part  of  the  fortification  which  was  ever  the 
scene  ot'  a  battle.  They  commenced  on  the  east  side, 
at  a  battery  of  heavy  cannon  on  the  shore,  about  a 
quarter  of  a  i  *h  south  of  the  ferry.  The  remains  of 
the  breastwor..  r  yet  be  seen.  The  lines  were 
drawn  in  a  zig-^  ;  first  stretching  off  to  the  right, 
along  the  side  of  marshy  ground  to  a  cluster  of  busnes 
where  was  a  battery ;  and  then  to  the  left  to  the  verge 
of  a  wood,  where  was  another. 

Their  course  may  be  distinctljr  traced  in  this  man- 
ner, across  the  ridge  of  land  at  its  highest  elevation, 
over  to  the  brow  of  a  steep  bank  looking  towards  the 
outlet  of  Lake  George.  The  ground  is  so  high  on  the 
top  of  this  ridge,  that  it  must  have  been  a  comnianding 
position  when  clear  of  trees.  The  woods  that  now  so 
much  interrupt  the  sight,  have  grown  since  the  evacu- 
ation of  the  fortress,  after  the  revolutionary  war. 

There  is  a  fine  spring  of  water  near  the  western 
part  of  the  French  lines,  where  a  bloody  engagement 
occurred  between  two  hostile  parties  during  the  battle. 
Bodies  of  men  have  been  dug  up  hereabouts  within  a 
few  years,  and  shot  were  formerly  very  frequently 
found  in  old  timber. 

Mount  Hope  is  a  hill  about  a  mile  north  from  this 
place.  It  was  occupied  by  General  Burgoyne's  British 
line,  which  formed  the  right  wing  on  his  approach  to 
Ticonderoga,  on  the  2d  of  June,  1777. 

In  proceeding  from  the  French  lines  south  towards 
the  fortress,  by  a  gentle  descent,  the  surface  of  the 
ground  appears  to  nave  been  in  some  places  smoothed 
in  former  times  by  the  plough,  and  by  the  removal  and 
cutting  away  of  rocks,  to  render  it  convenient  for  the 
evolutions  of  troops,  and  the  use  of  artillery.  A  close 
observer  will  also  remark  that  he  pasee«!  the  remain^ 


J0^' 


TICONDEHOGA. 


181 


oi  several  distinct  lines  of  small  redoubts,  placed  at 
equal  distances,  and  ranged  in  the  form  of  a  quincunx. 
Tbese  were  intended  to  embarrass  still  further  the  ap- 
proach to  the  fortress,  which  assiimes  the  air  of  a  more 
important  work  as  you  approach  it. 

There  are  two  old  intrenchments,  270  and  150  j^ards 
from  the  fortress;  and  then  comes  the  edge  of  the 
outer  ditch  or  counterscarp,  where  there  was  a  row  of 
palisadoes.  Five  steps  more  brine  you  to  the  walled 
side  of  the  ditch;  which  is  still  eight  feet  deep  in  some 
places,  and  therefore  impassable  except  where  it  has 
oeen  partly  filled  up.  Its  breadth  is  generally  about 
8  or  9  yards,  and  the  wall  of  the  fortress  on  the  other 
side  in  some  places  20  or  25  feet  high. 

The  fortress  is  of  an  angular  form,  and  embraces  a 
large  tract  of  ground,  being  divided  into  parts  by  deep 
ditches,  which  were  defer  ied  by  cannon  and  musketry, 
and  added  very  much  to  the  security  of  the  place. 
The  communication  between  these  dinerent  parts  was 
kept  up  by  stone  staircases,  placed  in  convenient  po- 
sitions of  the  angles,  all  so  calculated  as  to  make  the 
descent  into  the  ditches  and  the  ascent  circuitous  and 
intricate,  and  open  to  the  cannon  and  small  arms.  A 
glance  at  some  of  those  that  remain  will  show  the  plan. 
The  walls  were  originally  much  higher  than  at  present, 
being  raised  by  superstructures  oi  Ic^s  filled  in  with 
earth,  to  such  a  height  as  to  protect  the  barracks. 

The  Barracks  formed  an  oblong,  and  the  walls  still 
remain  of  all  except  those  on  the  eastern  side ;  their 
form  is  plainly  distinguishable.  The  parade,  which 
they  include,  appears  to  have  been  formerly  carefully 
smoothed.  This  area  is  about  524  yards  lon^,  and  8 
in  breadth.  The  barracks,  &c.,  the  walls  ot  which 
remain  on  the  north,  south,  and  west  sides,  are  built 
of  the  rough  blue  limestone,  of  which  the  neighbour- 
ing rocks  are  formed,  two  stories  high ;  and  these, 
with  the  chimneys,  several  of  which  are  standing,  are 
the  principal  objects  seen  from  a  distance.  By  the 
sontbern  entrance.  Ethan  Allen  entered  with  bi^s  ^ 


W2' 


UuUTE   TO  CANADA. 


raw  soldiers,  when  he  surprised  the  fortress  on  the  lt>th 
May,  1776 ;  and  on  reaching  the  court  yard  and  calling 
on  the  commander  to  surrender,  the  British  officer, 
Capt.  Deplace,  made  his  appearance  at  a  window  and 
submitted,  delivering  up  3  omcers  and  44  rank  and  file. 
In  consequence  of  this  coup  de  main,  this  important 
place  was  in  the  hands  of  the  Americans  until  the 
arrival  of  Burgoyne,  in  1777. 

The  battlements  of  Ticonderoga  first  bore  the  flaff 
of  independence.  This  circumstance  should  of  itsett* 
render  this  ruin,  so  Hne  in  other  associations,  interesting 
to  the  traveller. 

At  each  comer  was  a  bastion  or  a  demi-bastion ;  and 
under  that  in  the  north-eastern  one  is  a  subterranean 
apartment,  the  access  to  which  is  through  a  small 
entrance  near  that  comer  of  the  court  yard.  It  com- 
municates with  two  magazines  at  the  further  end :  that 
on  the  left,  which  is  the  larger,  being  19  or  20  feet 
long.  The  room  is  also  arched,  measures  about  35 
feet  in  length,  21  in  breadth,  and  10  or  11  in  heieht, 
and  like  the  magazines  was  bomb  proof.  The  cellars 
south  of  this,  which  belonged  to  the  demolished  build- 
ings, and  are  almost  filled  up,  have  a  room  or  two  with 
fireplaces  still  distinguishable. 

The  Grenadiers'  Battery. 

This  important  outwork  is  situated  on  a  rocky  point 
towards  the  east  from  the  main  fortress.  They  were 
connected  by  a  covered  way,  the  traces  of  which  are 
distinctly  visible.  It  was  surrounded  by  a  wall  faced 
with  stone,  with  five  sides,  one  of  which  measures 
about  180  feet ;  but  that  towards  the  lake  has  been 
undermined  by  time,  and  slipped  down  the  bank.  The 
remaining  parts  are  nearly  entire.,  and  about  10  feet 
high. 

Still  in  adv^ince  of  the  Grenadiers'  Battery  is  a  small 
work  of  earth,  which  mi^ht  have  contained  five  or  six 
afuns ;  while  in  front  of  it,  and  on  the  extreme  point. 


^tfVXT  I)SFIAKC£. 


18; 


tWo  or  three  more  guns  appear  to  have  been  placed 
between  the  rocks,  to  fire  down  upon  the  water,  about 
40  feet  below.  A  little  further  east,  and  under  the 
bank,  is  an  old  stone  house,  formerly  a  store  belonging; 
to  the  fort,  and  now  occupied  by  the  tenant  of  TVIr. 
Pell,  the  proprietor  of  the  whole  peninsula  of  Ticon- 
deroga.  On  a  spot  formerly  occupied  as  the  King's 
Garden,  Mr.  P.  has  a  fine  garden,  abounding  in  the 
choicest  fruits  imported  from  Europe,  and  transported 
from  the  celebrated  nurseries  of  Long  Island.  If  it  is 
the  intention  of  the  traveller  to  cross  the  lake,  to  the 
neighbouring  Vermont  shore,  where  are  still  some 
slight  remams  of  Burgoync's  intrenchments,  he  will 
be  much  pleased  with  a  walk  across  the  meadows  to 
the  upper  ferry,  a  distance  of  about  three-quarters  of  a 
mile. 

Between  the  Grenadiers*  Battery  and  the  fortress, 
the  shore  retains  traces  of  many  little  terraces,  breast- 
works, and  buildings,  such  as  were  probably  work- 
shops, barracks,  stores,  ^. 

The  great  mountain,  which  rises  dark  and  abruptly 
iVom  the  opposite  shore,  is 

Mount  Defiance^  about  800  feet  high,  on  the  summit 
of  which  Gen.  Burgoyne's  troops  sfcwed  themselves 
on  the  morning  of  July  4th,  1777,  with  a  batteiy  of 
heavy  cannon,  which  they  had  drawn  up  along  the 
ridge  by  night,  and  planted  in  that  commanding  posi- 
tion, wheiice  they  could  count  the  men  in  the  fort. 
The  distance  to  the  summit  in  a  straight  line  is  about 
a  mile,  so  that  the  defence  of  Ticonderoga  would  have 
been  impossible  ;  and  on  the  firing  of  a  few  shots  by 
the  British  upon  a  vessel  in  the  lake,  which  proved  the 
range  of  their  guns,  the  Americans  made  preparations 
to  evacuate  the  place,  and  effected  their  retreat  to  the^ 
opposite  shore  during  the  night.  *   ;>   -  i  -nit 

The  ascent  of  Mount  Defiance  is  laborious,  but  the 
view  is  extremely  fine  from  its  summit.  There  are  the 
lemains  of  Burgoyne's  battery,  with  holes  drilled  in  the 
rncksforWa^ing,  and  the  marks  of  a  large  blockhouse. 


i«l 


Jl('.»i!Tii  TO  (;anai»a. 


Mount  IndiiiHfukvce  In  a  hill  of  comparatively  small 
ulevRtioii  caHt  of  IVIouiiL  Di^linncc,  and  Hcparattid  frotn 
it  by  the  lako,  which  has  \\v.vv.  nMluco(i  itA  »i/e  to  that 
of  a  small  river.  On  n  hank*  ju^t  ahovo  the  water, 
are  the  remaiiiH  of  a  /ig:*za^  battery  for  about  40  or 
AO  f|;iii)»(f  riiiitiin^^  acroHH  a  little  cornfield  behind  a 
houHe,  Mild  making  five  or  ^\\  ang:leH.  The  Horse- 
shoe Hattery  is  traceable  on  an  elevation  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  in  the  rear.  A  bridge  once  connected 
Ticonderoga  with  Mount  Defiance,  the  buttresses  ol 
which  are  remaining,  to  the  great  annoyance  of  the 
navigators  of  the  lake ;  the  steamboat  passes  to  the 
south  of  them.  On  tlK>  west  shore  (near  the  stone 
storehouse),  Arnold,  when  pursued  by  the  British, 
(paused  his  flotilla  to  be  run  on  sliore.  These  hulks 
remain  almost  as  sound  as  when  first  stranded.  A 
forty-two  }:ounder  is  said  to  have  ranged  from  thn 
fiorseshoe  over  this  channel  (now  marked  by  u 
buoy)  and  the  fortress. 

Alter  the  Revolutionary  war  about  600  cannon  were 
lying  al)out  the  fortress,  lines,  &.c.  many  of  them  as 
Ief\  oy  the  English  with  their  trunniotis  knocked  ofT. 

The  mountainous  region  on  the  west  side  of  tho 
lake  abounds  with  deer,  and  co!'siderable  numbers  arc 
killed  every  season. 

TlIB   PaSSAOE    from   TirONDKROClA   DOWN    L\K'E 

*  Champlain 

is  veiy  pleasant,  abounding,  the  greater  part  of  the 
way  to  Canada,  with  fine  natural  scenes. 

The  improvements  produced  in  the  country  en- 
closing Lake  Champlain,  by  the  establishment  of 
steamboats  and  the  opening  of  the  Northern  Canal, 
have  been  veiy  great.  The  produce  formerly  sent 
southward  was  necessarily  subject  to  liei,vy  expenses 
of  transportation ;  while  the  merchandise  brought  in 
return  was  liable  to  delay,  uncertainty,  injuries  by  land 
carriaere,  and  rxpo«»irp  to  thp  weather  and  to  pilTermv. 


I.AKU   CitilAll't.ALN. 


ltJ/1 


c*ly  small 
I  toil  from 
/e  to  that 
he  water, 
DUt  40  t>i 
beliinii  a 
,0  llorsc- 

abuut  A 
connected 
ItresHes  ot 
nee  of  the 
if>H  to  the 

the  stone 
B  Hritish, 
[lese  hulks 
in(lc(i.    A 

from  the 
ted    by  a 

innon  were 
)t'  them  as 
icked  off. 
ule  of  the 
umbers  are 


VN    I<AK"E 


)art  of  the 

•ountry  en- 
ishment  ol 
)ern  Canal» 
rmerly  sent 
y  expenses 
brought  in 
-ies  by  land 
[to  pilTererv, 


whicli  are  obviated,  and  thefie  circumKlanceH,  il  i<i  well 
known,  produce  powerful  eiTectn.  The  towns  on  the 
lake,  five  or  six  years  riffo,  were  ill  sunplied  with  mer- 
rJiandiso,  which  is  now  found  in  abundance  and  cheap. 
8ome  of  them  have  more  than  doubled  their  si/e  since 
|}i^2,  and  numerous  villages  have  sprung  up  into  acti- 
vity  and  thrift  from  almost  nothing.  Now  roads  have 
also  been  made  into  the  interior,  and  mills  have  been 
erected  on  the  tributary  streams  for  cuttini^  up  the  sup* 
plies  of  valuable  timber  in  the  forests.  In  the  two 
townships  of  Crown  Point  and  Moriah,  tlier^  are  abou> 
(•0  lumber  mills,  which  will  be  able  to  furnish  a  million 
of  pieces  of  timber.  They  contain  also  vast  beds  of 
iron  ore,  for  which  forces  and  furnaces  have  betfu 
erected.  The  iron  religion  lies  between  the  lake  and 
the  north-rastern  branch  of  the  Hudson,  which  heads 
0  miles  west  of  it. 

At  Swanton,  Vt.,  are  quarries  of  dove-coloured  and 
black  marblet  where  300  saws  are  kept  at  work,  it 
is  carried  to  New-York  in  considerable  quantities.    - 

Great  numbers  of  small  schooners  navigate  the  wa- 
ters of  Lake  (Jhamplain,  and  within  a  few  years  nu* 
nicrous  canal  boats,  some  of  them  fitted  with  masts 
ibr  schooners  for  sailing.  Annesley^s  mode  of  building 
vessels  has  lately  been  adopted  here  to  some  extent, 
in  which  timbers  aro  discarded,  and  hulls  Ibrmed  oi 
inch  boards  running  in  several  thicktiesses,  and  in  cross 
directions. 

Onfy  about  20  vessr^ls  sailed  on  this  lake  before  the 
canal  was  opened  to  the  Hudson,  in  1H'J7  there  were 
t318  owned  in  the  limits  of  the  United  States,  with  an 
amount  of  tonnage  of  about  l'i,000.  Lake  vessels  and 
boats  were  employed  on  the  canal  every  year  to  the 
number  of  about  'J75. 

Five  Mile  Point  was  the  landing  placoof  (jcn.  Bur- 
Coyne's  expedition,  as  aheady  mentioncul.  Mountaln-i 
appear  in  the  west  and  north-W(>«<t,  with  occasional 
intervals  all  the  way  up  to  ('rown  PoiUi  ;  while  in  the 
irorfh  JF  a  lofty  and  lrnpn^in'2;'  raniT,  with  two  or  thrfti 


II  ■M»l  I    >  nil  <,»  I  »  ^Jim|^»l»«»»ir»T7W"P» 


1T5C 


KOMT,   TO   f'ANAOA. 


^eaks  almost  bald  from  the  height  of  their  elevation. 
Summits  multiply  as  we  proceed,  and  distant  moun- 
tains arise  also  m  the  north-east ;  while  Mount  Defiance 
and  other  eminences  towards  the  south  bound  the  view 
in  that  direction.  There  are  scattering  farms  and 
houses  on  both  shores. 

There  are  many  fish  caught  in  some  parts  of  the  lake. 
The  shores  are  in  this  part  strewed  with  the  fragments 
of  blue  limestone  rock  with  organic  remains.  The 
immediate  sliores  are  generally  low  all  tlie  way  to 
Crown  Point,  Avhere  the  lake  suddenly  turns  to  the- 
west  at  a  right  angle,  and  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  as 
suddenly  to  the  north  again.  A  low  stretch  of  land, 
covered  with  a  young  forest  on  the  left,  conceals  the 
approach  to  this  ancient  fortress,  which,  for  position 
as  well  as  appearance  and  history,  may  be  called  the 
twin  sister  of  Ticonderoga. 

Chimney  Point,  where  the  steamboat  often  receives 
and  lands  passengers,  is  on  the  north  side  of  the  lake, 
with  a  lai'ge  public  house  in  a  pleasant  situation ;  and 
here  is  the  place  to  stop,  if  the  traveller  intends  to 
visit  Crown  Point,  which  is  opposite,  across  a  ferry  | 
of  a  mile. 

A  ferry  boat  will  take  the  traveller  over  to  Crown 
Point  at  any  hour,  but  the  steamboat  proceeds  imme- 
dicttely. 

The  Fortress  of  Crown  Poikt.    . 

There  are  several  old  works  thrown  up  along  the 
shore,  with  little  bays  between  them.  The  eastern- 
most is  called  the  Grenadiers'  Battery,  the  middle  one 
is  the  original  old  French  fort  of  1731,  and  now  encloses 
a  garden  :  and  that  further  west  is  an  outwork  to  a 
bastion  of  the  fortress. 

The  fortress  is  situated  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
back  from  the  shore,  and  appears  much  like  Ticonde- 
roga from  a  distance,  showing  the  walls  and  chimneys 
/>f  tho  (M  bHrrnrks,  Riid  wn^h  of  earth  isurroundinir 


Liiow;^  i/oi^x. 


1«7 


elevation, 
nt  nioun- 
:  Defiance 
i  the  view 
arms  and 

f  the  lake, 
fragments 
ins.  The 
le  way  to 
ns  to  thf! 
a  mile  as 
h  of  land, 
iceals  the 
r  position 
called  the 

n  receives 
r  the  lake, 
ition;  and 
intends  to 
s  a  ferry  I 

to  Crown 
ds  imme< 


along  the 
eastern- 
iddle  one 
V  encloses 
work  to  a 

of  a  mile 
Ticonde- 
chimneys 
rronndin?: 


them,  ill  i'<^'^i'<^  to  its  plan,  however,  it  is  materially 
different.  The  fortress  of  Crown  Point  was  a  star 
work,  being  in  the  form  of  a  pentagon,  with  bastions 
at  the  angles,  and  a  strong  redoubt  at  the  distance  of 
i250  or  300  yards  in  advance  of  each  of  tbem.  The 
fortress  is  surrounded  by  a  ditch  walled  in  with  stone, 
except  where  it  lias  been  blasted  into  the  solid  rock 
of  blue  limestone,  (as  is  the  case  in  many  parts,  from 
five  to  twenty-five  feet,)  and  even  into  the  quartz  rock 
which  underlays  it.  Univalve  shells  are  found  in  the 
limestone  rocK,  frequently  four  inches  in  diameter. 
The  walls  are  about  20  or  25  feet  high,  and  there  is  a 
convenient  path  running  entirely  round  upon  the  top, 
interrupted  only  by  the  gates  at  the  north  and  south 
sides.  Although  much  shaded  by  tall  sumacs, 
some  fine  views  are  enjoyed  in  making  the  circuit, 
which  is  not  far  short  of  half  a  mile.  It  was  built 
in  1756. 

Opposite  the  north  ^ate  is  a  small  ledge  of  rocks  ; 
and  Close  by,  the  remams  of  a  covered  or  subterraneous 
way  to  the  lake  shore.  On  entering  the  fortress,  the 
stranger  finds  himself  in  a  level,  spacious  area,  bounded 
on  the  left,  and  in  front,  by  long  ruinous  buildings  of 
stone, two  stories  high,and[;the  first  220  feet  long,  while 
the  ruins  of  similar  ones  are  seen  on  two  sides  on  the 
right.  This  parade  is  about  500  feet  in  length.  The 
place  was  surprised  by  Col.  Warner  in  1775. 

The  view  from  the  walls  towards  the  north  is  very 
fine  :  looking  down  the  lake,  which  widens  at  the 
distance  of  two  or  three  miles,  you  have  Chimney 
Point  on  the  right,  and  two  other  Points  projecting 
beyond  the  distant  peak,  called  CktmeVs  Hump.  A 
range  of  mountains  on  the  western  shore,  beginning  at 
the  distance  of  18  miles,  including  Bald  reak,  gra- 
dually approach  till  they  form  a  near  and  bold  boundary 
to  the  lake  on  the  left,  scattered  with  cleared  farms 
and  houses,  and  then  stretching  away  to  the  south, 
terminate  in  the  mountains  behind.  This  elevation, 
although  it  eeems  almost  as  w«^!l  calculated  to  com- 


iiili 


mum  T(»  I  A.\Ai».i. 


i 


mand  Crown  I*oint  ns  Mount  Defiance  does  Ticoridc- 
iwi,  is  not  less  llian  lour  miles  distant. 

Evoiy  tliinjj  about  this  old  fortress  bears  the  marks 
of  ruin.  Two  magazines  were  l>lown  up  ;  the  timbers 
in  the  south  barradcs  are  burnt  black  ;  a  portion  of  the 
shingled  roof  which  remains  serves  to  cover  a  h'ttle 
hay  mow  and  the  nests  of  robins;  while  some  of  the 
entrances  and  other  parts  are  fenced  up  for  a  sheep 
iold.  The  ground  around  it  is  much  covered  vvitli 
fragments  ot  blasted  rocks,  and,  particularly  at  the 
south,  with  the  ruins  of  old  buildings.  The  trees  whidi 
are  seen  have  grown  since  the  evacuation  of  the  place  ; 
and  on  one  of  the  angles  is  an  inscription  of  the  date 
of  the  fortress. 

In  1776,  the  British  had  a  fleet  on  Lake  Champlain, 
composed  of  the  following  vessels  :  ship  Inflexible, 
Capt.  Pringle,  carrying  18  twelve-pounders ;  two 
schooners,  one  with  14,  the  other  with  12  six-pounders  ; 
a  flat-bottomed  radeau  with  6  twenty-fours  and  6 
twelves  ;  and  20  small  craft,  each  carrying  a  gun  from 
nine  to  twenty-four  pounders,  and  several  long-boats, 
besides  boats  for  baggage  stores,  &c. 

The  Americans  had  only  2  brigs,  1  corvette,  1  sloop, 
3  galleys,  and  8  gondolas,  the  lai^est  vessel  carrying 
only  12  six  and  four-pounders.  These  were  under  the 
command  of  Arnold,  who  drew  them  up  between  the 
island  of  Valincourt  and  the  western  shore,  where  they 
were  attacked.  They  fought  four  hours,  and  the 
British  at  last  retreated  ;  but  while  making  his  way 
towards  Crown  Point,  Arnold  was  overtaken,  and 
nearly  all  the  squadron  fled  up  the  lake,  passing  this 
place  which  was  evacuated.  Arnold  remamed  fighting 
as  long  as  possible,  and  did  not  leave  his  vessel  until 
she  had  taken  fire. 

On  making  a  signal  at  the  ferry  to  the  steamboat, 
she  will  stop  and  send  for  a  passenger.  Proceeding 
down  the  lake,  the  breadth  of  it  soon  increases,  and  at 
the  two  islands  on  the  ris:ht  it  is  about  U  miles  ncros?. 
A  little  fiather 


i^ 


LAKE    UllAiUrLAl.N. 


18» 


l^ut-ia-Bay,  on  the  eastern  shore,  with  an  island  of 
the  same  name.  A  little  north  of  this  is  a  small  island 
on  the  right,  with  three  bushes  on  it,  which  has  hence 
obtained  the  name  of  the  Scotch  Bonnet.  Looking 
south  the  lake  presents  a  fine  expanse,  extending  almost 
to  Crown  Point,  with  Bald  Peak  conspicuous  on  the 
right. 

Basin  Harbour  is  a  stopping  place.  It  is  very 
small,  with  room  for  only  3  or  4  vessels.  At  a  great 
distance  in  the  N.  E.  is  seen  the  Camel's  Hump :  fur- 
ther north  a  high  mountain  in  Halifax,  Vt. 

Sloop  Island,  17  miles  from  Burlington,  is  low  in  the 
middle,  and  contains  several  trees,  which  look  not 
nnlike  masts.  It  was  mistaken  for  a  sloop  in  a  misty 
day,  in  the  Revolutionary  or  French  w  ^r,  and  fired 
upon  by  a  vessel,  whence  its  name. 

At  Hartford  the  lake  suddenly  opens  to  the  breadth 
of  several  miles,  and  a  new  scene  is  presented  to  view. 
On  the  west  side  is  a  rounded  island  covered  with  pine 
trees,  like  much  of  the  shore  previously  seen,  and 
separated  from  the  mainland  only  by  a  narrow  rent 
of  about  fifteen  feet.  Apparently  just  within  this 
aperture  is  a  rude  arch  of  rock,  like  the  remains  of  an 
ancient  bridge.  A  beautiful  bay  makes  up  behind  the 
island,  of  which  a  glimpse  is  caught  in  passing ;  and  a 
little  further  north  it  opens  beautifully  to  view,  with  a 
smooth  declining  shore  cultivated  for  several  miles ; 
while  a  blue  range  of  the  Alleghanies  rises  behind 
them,  like  the  Catskill  Mountains  seen  from  the  city 
of  Hudson. 

On  the  eastern  side,  the  Green  Mountains  tower  at  a 
distance  over  the  wild,  uncultivated  shore,  till  a  cluster 
of  white  buildings  is  discovered  forming  the  little  vil- 
lage of  Charlotte  or  M*Neil's  Ferry,  which  is  backed 
by  a  few  fields  and  orchards.  Further  north  the  shores 
are  rocky,  and  rise  abruptly  from  the  water. 

R 


lOO 


llUC/Ti:   TO  C'A.NAl^A. 


BURLINGTON, 

75  miles  from  Whiteliall. 

This  is  the  lirgest  tow.i  on  Lake  Champlain,  and  ib 
situated  in  a  commandine^  as  well  ai>  a  delightful  po- 
sition. The  lake  suddenly  widens  as  you  approach  it 
from  the  south,  and  a  fine  semicircular  bay  puts  up  to 
it  from  the  west,  surrounded  by  a  crescent  of  higii 
ground,  under  the  shelter  of  whicn  the  town  is  situated. 
The  view  from  the  top  of  the  hills  is  truly  admirable  ; 
embracing  in  the  foreground  the  elec:ant  gardens  of 
some  of  the  wealthier  inhabitants,  with  the  streets  of 
Burlington  below,  the  curving  form  of  the  bay,  the 
whole  oreadth  of  the  lake,  here  fc:n  miles  across,  and 
a  noble  chain  of  distant  blue  mountains  on  the  opposite 
side.  The  college  iias  been  rebuilt.  The  road  to 
AVindsor  by  the  Gulf  is  very  good  and  interesting. 

The  ro'd  to  Montreal  passes  Swanton,  St.  Alban's, 
&c.  The  lake  is  occasionally  in  sight ;  and  for  a  dis- 
tance of  six  miles,  round  the  head  of  M issiscoui  Bay, 
the  road  runs  along  the  shore.  At  that  place  vast 
quantities  of  lumber  are  annually  collected. 

There  has  lately  been  established  here  a  glass-house, 
on  a  large  scale. 

PoKT  Kent,  10  vdlcs, 

is  a  small  village  on  the  western  shore,  16  miles  front 
Burlington.  It  was  begun  to  be  built  in  1824,  to  serve 
as  a  port  to  the  iron  works  established  a  little  back  in 
the  country,  where  there  is  a  vast  quantity  of  ore. 
About  2000  tons  of  iron  ore  are  annually  ii-ade  at  Essex 
and  Clinton ;  and  5000  or  6000  tons  might  be  furnished. 
It  contains  two  laige  stores,  a  wharf,  &c. 

A  railway  has  been  contemplated  from  this  place  to 
Clintonville  on  the  Sable  river,  where  are  extensive 
rainjES  of  iron.    The  land  is  favourable,  and  the  whole 


f-  T'i. 


r"!*"      i'^i"^"'^'"'     1  *    s-^as^B. 


?*y.  1lfJ4>-^.# 


h^, 


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r  «*'".> 


aiuy  and  ia 
ightful  po- 
pproach  it 
puts  up  to 
it  of  high 
is  situated, 
dmirablc ; 
ijardens  of 
i  streets  of 
B  bay,  the 
icrossy  and 
le  opposite 
he  road  to 
esting. 
it.  Alban% 
i  for  a  dis- 
scoui  Bay^ 
place  vast 

jass-housc, 


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T 


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'•».,<!».>■>'  <?i|- 


miles  from 
24,  to  serve 
ttle  back  in 
tity  of  ore. 
de  at  Essex 
e  furnished. 

his  place  to 
B  extensive 
d  the  whole 


'H 


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t: 


L.*J&^Jt-^JV.I..l^.l   .^-v:i;_-^s' 


Sft'Jtfr 


liATTLK    OF    r L ATI's UUUiar. 


ir»i 


v/ork,  15  miles,  would  probably  cost  only  $45,000.  In 
1827,  nut  less  than  $20,000  were  paid  tor  the  trans- 
portation of  the  article  to  Lake  Champlain, 

The  opening  of  the  state  road,  already  authorized 
by  the  Legislature,  from  the  Lake  to  Hopkinton,  Sf. 
Lawrence  Co.  will  introduce  sfreat  activity  into  that 
district.  Inexhaustible  beds  of  iron  ore  will  be  wrought 
near  this  route. 

FLATTSBURGH,  0  miUs, 

This  is  a  town  of  considerable  importance,  situated 
on  the  banks  of  a  small  river  called  the  Saranac,  and 
just  behind  the  hi^h  and  steep  bank  of  the  lake,  on 
which  is  a  line  of  forts  erected  for  the  defence  of  the 
place.  The  town  commands  a  fine  view.  There  are 
some  remarkable  Waterfalls  on  the  Saranac. 

Plattsburgh  was  the  scene  of  a  land  and  naval  battle 
during  the  late  war  with  Great  Britain. 

The  Battle  op  PLATToii-UGir. 

While  Gen.  Macomb  was  stationed  at  PlatLsburgh, 
Sir  George  Prevost  came  from  Canada  with  an  r  rmy, 
and  occupying  the  village,  stood  ready  to  attack  the 
American  troops,  who  were  in  position  on  the  elevated 
ground,  between  the  east  bank  of  the  Saranac  and  the 
precipitous  shore  of  the  lake,  where  a  number  of  forts, 
Lc.  are  still  to  be  seen.  Com.  M'Donough  was  at  that 
time  on  the  lake  with  the  American  squadron  ;  and 
hearing  of  the  approach  of  Capt.  Downie  with  the 
British  ships,  extended  his  line  between  Hospital 
Island  and  Cumberland  Head,  where  he  received  and 
fought  the  enemy,  with  such  success  as  to  capture  all 
his  vessels.  The  action  continued  2  hours  and  20 
minutes,  and  was  performed  in  full  sight  of  tha  armies. 
Capt.  Downie's  snip,  the  Confiance,  had  105  shot  in 
her  hull,  and  the  Saratoga  59,  and  was  twice  on  fire. 
This  battle  caused  the  retreat  of  Prevost,  and  relieved 
that  part  of  the  country  from  being  overrun* 


BH 


JU'J 


IIOUTIS   TO    C!A^A1)A. 


M'Donovgh\'i  Farm  lies  on  that  part  of  Cumberland 
Head  which  is  opposite  the  scene  of  his  battle,  and 
consists  of  200  acres.  It  was  presented  to  him  by  the 
lefi^islaluro  of  Vermont,*  in  gratitude  for  his  victory. 

CHAZY,  15  miles. 
Rouse's  1*oint,  \2  miles. 

There  is  a  village  by  this  name,  on  the  western  side  ; 
and  a  mile  beyond  it, 

The  Fortf  which  is  a  kind  of  large  castle,  built  of 
hewn  stone,  with  perpendicular  walls,  and  three  tiers 
of  embrasures.  It  stands  at  the  end  of  a  low  point, 
and  was  built  to  command  the  passage  of  the  lake 
during  the  last  war.  On  running  the  line  of  the  United 
States  and  Canada,  the  commissioners  at  first  fixed  the 
boundar]^  a  little  south  of  this  place,  so  as  to  bring  the 
fort  within  the  limits  of  the  latter ;  but  in  consequence 
of  the  line  agreed  on  by  the  treaty  coming  too  near 
Quebec,  it  was  determined  that  an  arrangement  should 
be  made  for  the  benefit  of  both  parties ;  and  the 
boundary  has  been  left  in  its  former  place.  An  opening 
through  the  woods,  like  a  road,  marks  the  place,  about 
half  a  mile  north  of  the  fort. 

A  committee  of  Congress  has  proposed  to  the  United 
States,  to  purchase  land  here,  and  open  a  canal  to  St. 
Regis,  on  the  St.  Ln  wrence.  The  lowest  summit  level 
on  American  ground,  would  be  960  feet  above  Lake 
Champlain. 

The  country  hereabouts  is  very  uninteresting  :  for 

*  St.  Mian's.  At  St.  Alban's,  in  Vermont,  an  extensive  "  slide,"  or 
avalanche,  occnried  on  the  4th  of  July,  18'27,  of  nlinost  unprecedented 
extent.  It  he^un  on  the  nortli-west  side  of  Mansfit  I  Mountain  near  tlu; 
lop,  which  18  4,iiI79  feel  al»ove  tide  water.  It  was  irom  20  to  30  yards  in 
breadth,  and  moved  down  3  niiloa,  aitho\igli  llie  (!i<ater  part  of  the  sur 
face  was  •rraduaily  slopini;,  with  the  exception  tif  a  precipice  of  near 
100  feet. 

Tlie  top  of  the  mounlain  (the  highest  in  the  state)  overl<K)k8  a  pari  of 
Canatla,  Ncw-Yoik  and  NiMvH;niips>hire.  to  the  White  Moimtflin^. 


•■"! 


^.  .701I>'  P. 


in.s 


the  level  country  has  begun  which  extends  far  into 
Canada.  The  appearance  of  the  banks  is  quite  uni- 
form ;  they  being  low,  and  in  many  places  almost 
overflown  by  the  waters  of  the  lake. 

Isle  aux  Noix,  1 1  mile.^. 

This  is  the  English  frontier  post, and  has  been  chosen 
with  judgment ;  as  although  the  ground  is  of  hardly 
any  elevation,  it  is  higher  than  any  in  the  neighbour- 
hood ;  and  the  island  is  so  situated  as  partly  to  occupy 
the  channel,  and  entirely  to  command  it. 

There  is  a  long  wall  and  battery  on  the  south  side, 
with  angles ;  beyond  which  are  seen  a  large  stone 
building,  and  the  roofs  of  others  on  the  left  and  right 
of  it,  forming  the  storehouses,  &c.  of  the  post.  The 
channel  is  on  the  east  side,  and  very  narrow,  faced  for 
a  considerable  distance  by  another  battery.  Sentries 
are  posted  in  different  places.  The  ship-yard  suc- 
ceeds, and  the  officers'  Quarters,  generally  neat,  one- 
story  buildings,  with  little  gardens  tastefully  laid  out. 
Here  is  a  landing-place  in  the  Chinese  style.  A  large 
ftockaded  building,  which  is  the  hospital,  succeeds, 
with  a  large  arch  raised  on  the  shore,  bearing  (he 
royal  crown.  The  little  cabins  are  the  soldiers' quar- 
ters, and  some  of  them  are  neat,  and  ornamented  with 
flowers. 

The  expedition  against  Canada,  in  1775,  consisted 
of  two  divisions  :  one  of  3000  New-England  and  New- 
Vork  soldiers,  under  Generals  Schuyler  and  Montgo- 
mery, proceeded  down  Lake  Champlain  in  rafts,  from 
Ticonaeroga  and  Crown  Point,  and  took  position  at 
Isle  aux  Noix.  The  other,  which  was  planned  and 
despatched  subseauentlv,  consisted  of  a  large  body, 
under  Gen.  Arnola,  and  proceeded  through  the  wil- 
derness, in  the  District  of  Maine,  for  Qjuebec.  The 
former  division,  after  a  little  delay,  proceeded  to  St. 
John's.  They  afterward  formed  at  this  place  a  che- 
vaux-de-frieze  in  the  river. 


'PIUPPPI  "l"!     I  IH|I  III!  I    Mil  Hm  Hill  (Hill         II      j]Jt 


I 

r 


I 


Jfl4 


JtOVTK   TU    t:A:SAlJA. 


Beyond,  llic  shores  continue  low  and  unintcitatiu^. 
with  numerous  cabins  of  settlers  near  the  water,  the 
hiQat  encroaching  to  within  a  short  distance  behind. 

St.  John's,  10  miles. 

Here  the  steamboat  stops,  at  the  head  of  the  rapids, 
%,  andatthe  endof  navip^ation.  Stage  coaches  are  some- 
times kept  in  readiness  to  take  the  passengers  directly 
on  their  way  to  Montreal  (16  miles  by  land,  and  9 
by  water,  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  in  a  steamboat).  But 
the  arrangements  are  sometimes  different,  and  it  has 
even  been  the  custom  often  to  spend  a  night  in  this 
place,  i'he  stage  house,  on  the  left-hand,  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  up  the  main  street,  is  in  some  re- 
spects an  excellent  house. 

The  village  presents  nothing  worthy  of  particular 
attention,  except  as  the  scene  oT  some  military  deeds, 
connected  with  the  expedition  of  Gen.  Montgomery 
against  this  country.  While  the  continental  troops 
were  stationed  at  isle  aux  Noix,  in  1775,  Generals 
Montgomery  and  Schuyler  invested  the  fort,  which 
contamed  a  garrison  of  5  or  600  troops,  besides  200 
Canadians,  and  was  commanded  by  Major  Preston. 
The  siege  lasted  6  weeks,  and  they  did  not  capitulate 
till  some  time  after  the  surrender  of  Chambly,  nor  till 
the  Americans  had  brought  their  trenches  to  the  walls 
of  the  fort.  They  then  obtained  possession  of  17 
brass  pieces,  22  iron,  7  mortars,  with  balls,  bombs, 

&C.  &LC. 

The  Canadian  money  is  different  from  that  of  the 
United  States ;  but  in  consequence  of  the  continual 
intercourse,  the  latter  jpasses  currently.  Nine  sous  or 
'  coppers,  (which  are  of  various  and  sometimes  curious 
stamps,)  eaual  six  cents.  2  sous  nearly  Id.  and  20 
cents  a  shilling. 

The  pleasantest  road  from  St.  John's  to  Montreal,  is 
by  Chambly,  and  Longueil,  (for  which,  see  Index.) 

Leaving  St»  John's  for  Montreal,  by  Laprairie^  (the 


i 


'w^if^m'j" 


•^•^^t^mmmmmimmmmi 


«P 


iiitcrcatin*;. 
water,  the 
5  behind. 


"'"'M 


the  rapids, 
» are  soiiic- 
rs  directly 
fid,  and  9 
)atj.  But 
and  it  has 
:ht  in  this 
I,  about  a 
some  re- 

particular 
iry  deeds, 
►ntgomery 
tal   troops 

Generals 
rt,  which 
jsides  200 

Preston. 
:apitulate 
y,  nor  tiJl 
the  walls 
ion  of  17 
3,  bombs, 

lat  of  the 
continual 
le  sous  or 
is  curiou,s 
.  and  20 


?*    i' 


(     •»** 


)ntreal,  is 
[ndex.) 
irie^  (the 


'.5*i,. ,    i-..: 


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r 


ir 


/, 


■*^. 


Ms'lt 


;j;,..rjCA-    -^ — „', 


r^-ir-if-r 


'^■■if 


Louj;u  4:a.\ai)a. 


19^ 


f?lagc  route,)  tUc  road  passes  about  a  mile  along  the 
western  shore  of  the  River  Richelieu,  which  some- 
times takes  the  names  of  St.  John^s  and  Sorel,  in  con- 
sequence of  its  running  by  those  towns.  Several 
mountains  are  in  sight,  as  oelceil,  BoucherviUe,  &c. 

The  Rapids  may  be  regarded  as  a  specimen,  on  a 
small  scale,  of  the  numerous  rapids  in  the  8t.  Law- 
rence, which  will  hereafter  excite  the  interest,  if  not 
the  apprehension,  of  the  stranger.  The  bed  of  the  Ri- 
chelieu has  a  rapid  descent  in  several  places,  where  it 
comes  immediately  under  observation,  and  becomes  so 
shallow  as  to  be  passable  for  the  flattest  boats  oiily 
during  the  floods.  In  the  summer  it  is  generally  only 
a  few  inches  deep,  and  the  surface  broken  by  nu- 
merous stones  of  all  sizes,  and  here  and  there  by  little 
waterfalls  near  the  shore.  At  the  same  time  the 
banks  are  low  and  flat ;  the  houses  of  one  floor,  white- 
washed, and  built  at  nearly  equal  distances,  facing  the 
river ;  and,  in  short,  the  general  character  of  a  scene 
on  the  St.  Lawrence,  may  be  imagined  from  a  view 
here,  by  making  allowance  for  its  size  and  fertility. 

It  has  been  proposed  to  make  a  canal  to  the  St. 
Lawrence  ;  but  it  is  said  that  the  channel  of  the  St. 
John's  might  be  improved,  by  stone  walls  to  conflne 
the  water  over  these  rapids.  The  Chambly  rapids 
mi^ht  be  passed  by  a  short  canal ;  and  the  only  re- 
maming  obstructions  till  those  at  the  mouth  are  at  St. 
Therese  and  Mille  Roches. 

The  inhabitants  along  the  road  present  the  aspect  of 
foreigners,  in  dress,  countenance,  manners,  customs, 
and  language.  Their  fashions  are  antique,  and  many 
of  them  have  not  been  changed  for  ages :  the  men 
wear  the  Canadian  jacket,  cap,  or  hat,  red  sash,  and 
moccasin  of  rou^h  feather.  The  women  work  labo- 
riously in  the  held,  and  all  of  them  speak  French,  ge- 
nerally without  knowing  a  word  ot  any  other  lan- 
guage. The  farms  will  be  observed,  laid  out  in  strips 
of  1  or  200  acres,  flat,  broad,  and  1,  2,  or  even  3  miles 
in  Ienj?th ;  and  the  system  of  farming  is  extremely  bad. 


\do 


KOUTB   TO  CANADA. 


as  will  be  discovered  at  once,  by  Ihe  acres  that  an; 
consigned  to  the  useless  and  destructive  little  Canada 
Thistle.  There  is  no  such  thing  known  here  as  the 
doctrine  of  a  rotation  of  crops,  and  land  is  recovered 
to  fertility  by  lying  fallow,  except  that  lately  the  use 
of  manure  has  beg^n  to  be  resorted  to  in  a  small  de- 
gree. The  horses  are  of  a  small  breed,  well  known 
in  the  northern  states  by  the  name  of  the  country. 
They  are  small  and  slow,  hut  powerful  and  hardy. 
Many  of  them  are  driven  across  the  line,  and  large 
horses  introduced  into  the  towns  in  return.  The 
value  of  a  common  Canadian  horse  is  about  $40 ;  and 
of  a  good  one,  $60.  Th«  land  titles  are  extremely 
doubtful :  no  register  being  kept,  and  no  security 
being  provided  by  means  of  which  the  legal  propriety 
may  be  certainly  ascertained.  The  Legislature,  how- 
ever, have  had  this  subject  befbi\j  them. 

There  is  very  little  to  be  seen  on  this  road  to  inte- 
rest the  traveller,  except  the  novelty  of  what  he  ob- 
serves. There  is  little  encouragement  to  settlers,  12 
per  cent,  is  payable  to  the  Seigneur,  on  sales  of  real 
estate,  besides  other  heavy  taxes  of  different  descrip- 
tions. The  landscape  is  unvarying :  the  inhabitants, 
as  well  as  the  soil,  are  poor  ;  and  there  is  nothing  that 
deserves  the  name  of  a  village.  As  appears  from  tes- 
timony received  by  a  Committee  of  the  British  House 
of  Commons  not  lon^  since,  in  many  cases  land  of  ex- 
actly the  same  description  is  worth  from  10  to  15  shil- 
lings an  acre  on  the  Vermont  and  New-York  side  of 
the  line,  and  only  1  shilling  on  the  Canada  side.  We 
pass  a  house  now  and  then,  dignified  by  a  tall  pole  or 
mast  raised  in  front  of  it,  which  is  a  singular  mark  of 
distinction  conceded  to  officei'sof  militia,  and  usually 
adopted  by  those  of  the  lowest  grades. 

The  people  appear  very  happy,  and  have  healthy 
countenances,  inclining  to  round  faces  and  thick  lips. 
Many  of  them  show  the  upper  front  teeth  when  silent ; 
and  their  aspect,  although  oftentimes  shrewd,  denotes 
a  want  of  education,  which  is  the  real  cause  of  the 


LAi'J{AiBI£. 


VJl 


backward  condition  of  society  in  Canada.  They  arc 
all  Catholics ;  and  the  churches  seen  here  and  there 
upon  the  .oad,  are  devoted  to  the  service  of  the 
Romish  church.  One  hirge  church,  lately  built  of  gray 
stone,  will  be  seen  on  the  south  side  of  the  road. 

It  has  been  sug^gested  that  a  railroad  might  be  ad- 
vantageously constructed  from  St.  John's  to  Laprairie. 

The  IlAiiF-WAY  House 

is  dirty  and  disagreeable  ;  but  the  inhabitants  under- 
stand English,  and  it  is  generally  stopped  at  only  a  few 
minutes.  The  land  is  divided  in  some  places  by 
ditches  round  the  farms ;  and  there  are  the  cnannels  of 
several  small  streams  which  cross  the  road.  One 
of  these  is  passed  on  a  bridge,  just  east  of  the  slop- 
ping place. 

About  half  a  mile  beyond,  are  some  barracks  built 
for  troops,  during  th<^  late  war.  One  of  the  most  sin- 
gular traits  in  the  domestic  arrangements  of  the  Cana- 
dians, is  buildins;  the  oven  not  only  out  of  doors,  liko 
the  Dutch,  but  directly  over  the  pi^  sty. 

The  mountain  from  which  the  city  of  Montreal  de- 
rived its  name,  and  which  riseo  immediately  behind 
it,  may  be  discovered  at  a  great  distance  ;  and  the 
house  of  Mr.  M*Tavish  may  be  perceived,  like  a 
white  spot,  a  little  distance  up  its  side. 

Some  time  before  reachir^  the  river,  you  pass  an 
extensive  common,  Ij^ingon  the  south  side  of  the  road, 
and  then  the  town  of 


Laprairie. 

This  is  a  large  town,  from  which  the  steamboats 
Montreal  and  Edmund  Henry  cross  several  times  ;i 
day,  to  Montreal,  9  miles.  The  place  is  built  after 
the  Canadian  fashion ;  and  very  lew  of  the  inliabit- 
ants  speak  English.  Tlie  streets  are  narrow,  the 
h()u?e<!  low,  ?ina  nothing  i«  to  be  «een  worthy  of  par- 


190 


RIVER  ST.    LAWRENCE. 


I  I 


ticular  notice,  excepting  a  nunnery  and  the  cliurcli, 
both  which  may  seem  curious  to  persons  who  are  not 
familiar  with  Catholic  countries ;  though  of  interior 
interest  to  those  of  Montreal  and  Q,iiebec.  The  nuns 
possess  a  large  tract  of  land,  nearly  in  the  centre  of 
the  town,  which  is  surrounded  by  a  high  wall  :  and 
they  devote  their  time  to  the  care  of  the  sick,  and  the 
education  of  girls. 

The  view  of  Montreal  from  the  wharf  is  uninter- 
rupted. The  city  is  distinguished  at  the  distance  of 
9  miles,  by  its  thick  mass  of  buildings,  roofed  with 
sheets  of  tin,  and  overtopped  by  church  spires,  shininiF;* 
with  the  same  metal.  Behind  it  rises  a  fine  moun- 
tain, spotted  with  orchards ;  on  the  right,  down  the 
St.  Lawrence,  is  the  fortified  island  of  St.  Helen ;  and 
on  the  left,  that  of  the  Nuns,  and  several  smaller  ones 
at  a  distance,  through  which  are  seen  the  sheets  of 
white  foam  caused  hy  the  rapids.  The  shores  are 
low  and  perfectly  flat  m  every  direction ;  which,  with 
the  wide  expanse  of  water,  gives  an  aspect  of  tire- 
some monotony  and  extension  to  the  scene.  At  a 
S^reat  distance  up  are  seen  Isle  Heron  and  others.  Uni- 
formity will  be  found  characteristic  of  almost  the 
whole  voyage  to  Qjuebec. 

The  current  of  the  river  will  appear  extremely 
rapid,  particularly  near  those  parts  where  the  surface 
is  broken  by  rocks ;  but  the  steamboats  are  supplied 
with  engines  comparatively  powerful,  and  are  able  to 
effect  the  passage  with  facility  and  in  safety.  It  is 
impossible  for  any  boat  to  go  through  the  current 
without  being  borne  rapidly  down  in  some  places  ; 
and  there  is  a  part  of  the  river  near  the  middle,  where 
the  water  is  clear,  and  the  rocks  are  easily  seen  on 
the  bottom,  as  the  boats  glide  on  above  them.  In  re- 
turning, the  boats  sometimes  pass  between  two  rocks, 
near  the  rapids,  that  on  the  east  being  under  water. 
Here  the  river  is  much  agitated,  and  sometimes  throws 
the  water  on  deck  without  any  danger. 

A  particular  de'scription  of  the  various  objects  jn 


MOMTUEAL. 


191^ 


Montreal)  and  the  vicinity,  writ  be  postponed  for  the 
present ;  and  it  is  necessary  here  to  mention  only  the 
wore  prominent  objects  which  strike  the  eye  on  the 
approach. 

A  large  tinned  roof  on  the  left,  wkh  a  small  Steepler 
belongs  to  the  convent  of  Gray  Nuns ;  further  back  is 
the  Recollet  church ;  then  the  French  Parish  church, 
near  which  is  seen  the  Great  Cathedral.  The  Eng- 
lish Episcopal  church  has  a  tall  pyramidal  spire  ;  and 
that  which  rises  farther  to  the  right,  and  near  the  shore, 
is  the  church  of  Bon-secours.  From  some  places 
may  be  seen  the  top  of  Nelson's  monument,  with  se- 
veral other  remarkable  objects,  particularly  the  bar- 
racks, on  the  right,  behind  the  remnant  of  the  old  city 
^vall. 


MONTREAL. 

Inns.  Masonic  Hall,*  at  the  north  end  of  the  city, 
with  a  piazza  over  the  bank  :  Goodenough's,  oi, 
PaulVstreet ;  Mansion  house,  do.  by  Martinant.  Also 
Clamp's  hotel.  These  are  all  large  houses,  and  por- 
ters will  be  found  on  the  shore  belonging  to  each,  who 
will  convey  the  luggage,  and  show  the  way. 

The  landing  place  is  unpleasant,  and  the  stranger 
may  be  struck  with  the  narrowness  of  the  streets,  the 
lowness  and  heavy  aspect  of  the  houses,  which  are  of 
stone  or  plastered  to  resemble  it :  but  all  this  is  in 
conformity  with  the  fashion  of  the  country  ;  and  Mon- 
treal contains  many  fine  buildings  and  other  objects 
worthy  of  notice,  together  with  a  vicinity  which  in 
the  warm  season  of  the  year  is  truly  delightful. 

Those  who  remain  but  a  short  time  in  this  city, 
may  easily  pay  a  hasty  visit  to  the  principal  objects  of 

*  The  MaRonic  Hall  h  tlio  most  expensive  hotel  in  Montreal.  It  is 
kept  by  Mr.  Itiaucu,  an  Ualian,  and  lius  u  rcstuurant  in  the  French  fa* 
shion,  where  the  stranger  may  nelecthis  dinner  t'loni  u  long  bill  of  fare. 
The  hi({liest  rate  of  board,  including  private  parlour,  &c.  is  U.  5s.  [x^r 
day.    The  main  buiUlinir  is  4  stories  lij'.'h.  and  the  t\vo  wiri2s3. 


^00 


>lwMilUAL. 


curiosity ;  and  are  recommended  to  taiie  a  walk 
through  the  two  principal  streets,  and  to  notice  the 
following  buildings  and  places. 

At  the  north  end  of  St.  Paul's-street  are  the  Bar*- 
i^acks.  Above  these  are  the  Hospital  and  Public 
Baths.  Just  above  the  Masonic  Hall,  is  the  French 
church  of  Bon-secours,  which,  like  the  other  Canadian 
religious  buildings  generally,  is  formed  much  on  the 
plan  of  those  in  France.  The  roofs  are,  however, 
generally  covered  with  tin,  which  is  not  much  used  in 
other  countries.  This  is  near  the  northern  limit  of 
Montreal,  beyond  which  begins  the  Quebec  suburb. 

Masonic  HaXU  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  street. 

Theatre,  adjoining  the  Masonic  Hall. 

Market  Place*  and  JSTelson's  Monument.  Then  fol- 
lows a  double  roW  of  shops.  On  the  east  side  are 
several,  which  show  articles  of  Indian  manufacture 
for  sale.  These,  however,  had  better  be  bought  at  the 
nunneries  if  it  is  intended  to  visit  them. 

The  Black  jVmws'  Garden,  Convent,  and  Chapel,  are 
on  the  west  side  of  the  street.  The  wall  is  very  high. 
The  porter  at  the  gate  will  give  admission  and  direc- 
tions, but  in  French.  Visiters  are  expected  to  pur- 
chase a  few  articles  of  nuns'  or  Indian  manufacture. 
It  is  most  agreeable  to  go  in  parties. 

The  New  Cathedral  and  Old  Parish  Church  are 
close  by  :  a  short  street  leads  to  them,  west. 

The  New  Cathedral 

i.s  probabljr  the  largest  church  in  North  America,  un- 
less exceptions  are  to  be  made  in  favor  of  Mexico.  This 
edifice  is  at  present  partly  concealed  by  the  old  Ca- 
thedral, which  is  to  be  removed  on  its  completion,  to 
leave  the  front  open  to  a  large  square :  the  Place. 
d'^Armes.  It  was  commenced  in  1825,  and  the  walls 
were  raised  and  the  roof  partly  finished  at  the  close  of 

*  A  npw  mnrkct  if  to  hr  hnUt  iuptcm!  of  tliP  «lf?. 


HOU'i'RHAL. 


JiOl 


\valk 
ce  the 


le 


Bar^ 
Public 
French 
anadian 
1  on  the 
owever, 
used  in 
limit  of 
iburb. 
eet. 

^hen  t'ol- 
side  are 
lufacture 
;ht  at  the 

apeU  arc 

ery  high. 

d  direc- 

to  pur- 

lufaclure. 

\iurch  arc 


i&2T,  Mr.  (J'Donnelll,  the  architect  employed  in  su« 
l^erintendin^  the  work,  ^ave  the  plan,  which  is  partly 
copied  from  some  of  the  European  models  of  the  13tn, 
14th,  and  15th  centuries.  It  is  of  the  plainest  stylu 
that  can  bear  the  name  of  Gothic  :  any  exuberance  of 
ornament  being  inconsistent  with  a  climate  so  severe  as 
that  of  Canada. 

It  is  266  feet  lon^  from  west  to  east,  and  134  feet 
wide.  It  was  designed  to  have  six  quadrangular 
towers,  each  200  feet  high  :  0  on  each  flank,  and  2  at 
each  end.  The  curtain,  or  space  between  the  front 
towers  is  73  feet  by  119,  and  has  parapets.  There 
lire  5  public  entrances  and  3  private  to  the  first  floor, 
and  4  to  the  galleries.  The  building  can  contain 
10,000  persons,  which  number  may  assemble  and  dis- 
perse in  a  few  minutes.  The  eastern  window  over 
the  high  altar  is  32  by  64  feet,  and  is  to  be  divided  by 
shafts  and  mull  ions  for  stained  glass.  The  groins  of 
ihe  ceiling  are  painted  in  fresco.  The  ceiling  will  be 
80  feet  high,  groined  and  partly  supported  b)r  a  double 
range  of  grouped  columns,  intersected  by  rails.  The 
circuit  of  the  edifice  is  1126  feet. 

Thero  are  to  be  7  altars.  The  floor  rises  gradually 
from  the  entrance  to  the  high  altar.  The  house  is  to 
be  warmed  by  heated  air  from  stoves  under  the  floor. 
The  exterior  is  faced  with  hewn  stone,  from  the  moun- 
tain. A  promenade  75  feet  by  25,  elevated  more  than 
100  feet  between  the  towns  will  command  a  noble 
view.    It  is  now  roofed,  and  nearly  completed. 

GoodenougW s  Hotel  is  on  the  west  side,  in  a  court 
yard. — Further  on,  a  street  on  the  opposite  side  brings 
you  in  sight  of  the 

Gray  Jyuns*  Convent,  a  large  stone  building,  partly 
new,  aoout  410  feet  in  length. 

Mansion  Home  Hotel,  St.  Paul's-street,  below  an 
open  square. 

(The  Canal  to  Lachine  begins  on  the  river  shore, 
nearly  against  here. 

The  Seminary  (La  Seminaire  do  St.  Sulpicc.^  is  an 


2U2 


.MUiSTKEAL. 


antique  building,  and  contains  a  Catholic  library  of 
about  6000  volumes ;  but  access  to  it  is  not  very  easily 
obtained.  The  College  in  this  city  was  built  by 
money  supplied  from  the  funds  of  this  institution. 
The  Priests  are  the  Seigneurs  of  the  whole  island  of 
Montreal. 

The  College  is  a  large  building  of  stone,  three  sto- 
ries high,  erected  in  1819  out  of  the  funds  of  the 
"Seminary."  It  has  a  front  of  about  160  feet,  with 
■wings  projecting  in  front  and  rear,  which  make  the 
whole  length  about  220  feet.  In  order  to  guard 
against  fire,  there  is  scarcely  any  wood  used  in  the 
construction ;  and  large  iron  doors  are  hung  in  the 
passages  in  such  a  manner  that,  by  shutting  them,  the 
whole  building  may  be  divided  into  three  parts,  each 
fire-proof. 

It  contains  about  300  students,  v.  ho  are  divided  into 
8  classes,  to  each  of  which  is  devoted  a  year,  with  the 
exception  of  the  two  last,  which  occupy  but  6  months 
apiece ;  so  that  the  whole  course  of  instruction  is  finished 
in  7  years.  Many  of  the  pupils,  however,  leave  the 
institution  before  completing  the  course. 

The  Chapel  is  in  the  south  wing ;  and  the  rest  of 
the  building  is  divided  into  recitation  rooms,  and  bed 
rooms,  the  former  of  which  are  hung  with  maps  and 
religious  pictures,  and  the  latter  supplied  with  crosses 
and  fonts.  Every  thing  is  verj^  plain  in  the  furniture. 
The  price  o*  instruction  is  about  eighty  dollars  per 
year,  and  some  of  the  pupils  have  a'lowances  made 
them  ;  particularly  those  designed  for  the  Church, 
who  assist  in  instruction  by  day,  and  study  by  night. 
There  is  a  preparatory  School  con^iectea  with  the 
Collegre.  One  of  the  instructers  always  oversees  the 
boys  m  their  recreations. 

neturning  to  the  square,  and  entering  another  prin- 
cipal street  running  parallel  to  St.  Paul's,  you  pass 
numerous  respectable  and  some  elegant  dwelling*, 
leaving  the  Parish  Church  and  the  new  Cathedral  on 
tlie  east. 


I 


MOKTHEAL. 


ii03 


rary  of 
y  easily 
uilt  by 
titution. 
sland  cf 

iree  sto- 
3  of  the 
et,  with 
lake  the 
0  guard 
d  in  the 
r  in  the 
hem,  the 
rts,  each 

ided  into 
with  the 
6  months 
IS  finished 
leave  the 

rest  of 
and  bed 

[laps  and 
h  crosses 

furniture. 

)llars  per 

:es  made 
Church, 
by  night, 
with  the 
jrsees  the 

ther  prin- 
you  pass 
IwellingJ*, 
Ihedral  on 


The  Wesley  an  Chapel.  The  American  Congrega- 
tional, and  the  English  Episcopal  Churches  are  passed 
on  this  side  of  the  town. 

The  Court  House  is  large,  but  old ;  and  in  the  rear 
of  it  is 

The  Parade,  a  handsome  piece  of  ground,  with  a 
walk,  where  the  troops  are  drilled  every  morning, 
generally  at  10  o'clock.  There  is  commonly  but  a 
small  number  of  soldiers  in  the  city,  during  peace ; 
and  a  regiment  garrisons  Montreal  and  the  other  posts 
in  the  neighbourhood  towards  the  United  States. 

The  Society  of  Natural  History  have  an  interesting 
collection  of  animals,  minerals,  plants,  &c.  principally 
collected  in  the  provinces. 

A  House  of  Industry  has  been  recently  established. 

The  British  and  Canadian  School  Society  esiahlfshed 
schools  on  the  British  system  in  Montreal,  in  Sept. 
1822.  In  Sept.  1825,  there  had  been  admitted  1706 
boys,  and  444  girls,  most  of  whom  were  of  the  poorer 
class.  It  is  supported  by  voluntary  subscriptions. 
Nine  hundred  pounds,  the  remainder  of  ^  lai^e  sum 
collected  in  England  for  the  instruction  of  Indians  not 
otherwise  instructed,  is  in  the  hands  of  this  society,  to 
be  hereafter  devoted  to  that  object. 

There  is  a  Lancasterian  School  of  several  hundred 
scholars,  where  some  of  the  most  influential  Canadians, 
Cathoiics,  having  become  aware  of  the  value  of  educa- 
tion, have  placed  themselves  on  the  committee.  There 
is  an  Episcopal  School  on  Bell's  system. 

The  priests  in  Canada  have  begun  to  educate  in  self 
defence.  The  f^choois  provided  for  by  gov*»rnment, 
are  restricted  to  masters  of  the  English  Church ;  and 
a  considerable  number  of  school-houses  have  been 
erected,  but  almost  confined  to  the  townships, 

Schools^  <^c.  in  Lower  Canada. — According  to  a  re- 
port made  in  the  House  of  Assembly  of  the  Province 
m  1829,  there  were,  in  Montreal,  Qjuebec,  and  Three 
Rivers,  3  schools  of  royal  iastitution,  2  colleg3S,  6  con- 


iM)l 


MOr^TREAL. 


vents,  U  gratuitous  schools,  (containing  1214  pupils,) 
and  50  other  schools. 

In  the  country,  there  were  70  schools  of  royal  insti" 
tution,  4  colleges,  and  14  mission  schools. 

IsLAi^D  OP  St.  Helen,  or  Grant's  Island. 

This  has  recently  been  purchased  by  the  British 
i;;overnment,  for  a  military  position  and  depot.  It  is 
principally  covered  with  trees ;  but  has  a  beautiful 
garden  behind  the  quarters  of  the  officers ;  and  a  fine 
road  winding  round  from  the  landing  place,  on  the 
south  end,  (where  are  some  remains  of  old  works,  and 
a  new  battery,)  to  a  rocky  eminence  over  the  arseral, 
^vhicb  is  opposite  the  northern  quarter  of  the  town. 
This  rock  is  about  1 1  feet  higher  than  the  most  ele- 
vated parts  of  the  citjr ;  and  the  view  from  it  is  hand- 
some, with  a  wild  ravine  just  below. 

The  arsenal  and  storehouses  form  three  building;3, 
with  a  narrow  yard  between  them,  about  135  feet  in 
length.  The  batteries  range  on  the  river  and  town, 
-and  are  furnished  with  neat  barracks,  a  magazine,  iiic* 

The  Mountain  op  Montreal, 

the  summit  of  which  is  to  be  the  site  of  an  impregna- 
ble Citadel,  offers  an  extensive  and  delightful  view, 
and  should  by  no  means  be  forgotten  by  those  who 
have  an  opportunity  to  undertake  the  excursion.  It 
is  better  calculated  to  afford  an  idea  of  the  country, 
as  well  as  to  delight  the  eye,  than  any  other  excursion 
which  can  be  made.  Yet  it  is  recommended,  if  the 
traveller  stays  long  enough,  to  take  a  ride  or  two  in 
different  directions,  after  having  visited  this  favourite 
spot.  Capt.  Partridge  states  its  elevatiiHi  at  676  feet 
abo/e  tide  water. 

There  are  three  ways  of  reaching  the  summit  of  the 
mountain ;  on  foot,  by  an  intricate  route  from  the 
eouthern  part  of  the  city :  on  hnrftphnck.  or  in  n  rrrr- 


MONTHEAL. 


205 


riagCf  to  the  ridge ;  or  round  the  north  end  to  the  rear. 
There  is  also  a  footpath  up  the  north  end.  A  private 
road  turns  oflF  from  the  southern  road  on  the  ridge, 
passing  through  a  gate. 

Heretofore  the  only  {food  point  of  view  has  been 
from  a  rock  above  M*Tavish  .s  house,  whence  a  very 
steep  path  leads  directly  dovv^n. 

Tne  country  spread  out  to  view  on  arriving  at  this 
commanding  height,  is  a  plain  of  such  vast  extent  as 
to  appear  in  many  direction-  quite  boundless.  In  fact, 
it  streti'hes  much  farther  than  would  be  imagined  ,  for 
all  the  way  to  Qjuebec  the  river's  banks  present  the 
same  appearance. 

The  spectator  faces  the  east.  The  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, almost  precipitous,  is  thickly  covered  with  trees, 
which  soon  give  place  below  to  a  smooth  descent,  de- 
<:lining  to  the  base,  chiefly  devoted  to  pasturage,  on 
the  elevation  of  which  stands  M*Tavish's  house.  A 
beautiful  display  of  cult  vated  fields  succe<;ds  on  the 
level,  divided  by  high  palings,  and  scattered  with  a 
few  houses.  Below  a  moderate  descent,  which  ap- 
pears like  an  old  bank  of  the  river,  gardens  and  dwell- 
ings begin  to  increase ;  and  behind  a  succeeding  one, 
of  a  similar  description,  are  suburbs. 

East,  on  the  horizon,  is  Boucherville  Mountain  ;  and 
over  it  is  seen,  more  indistinctly,  Belceil  Mountain. 
The  plain  country  between  the  Sorel  and  St.  Law- 
rence is  divided  mto  innumerable  fields,  with  sc;Uter- 
ing  houses.  In  the  same  dire*  tion  is  seen  St.  Helen's, 
or  Grant's  Island ;  and  in  a  direction  with  the  south 
end  of  it,  the  steeple  of  Bon-secour  church.  North 
of  this  are  the  Quebec  suburbs,  beginning  near  the 
barracks  ;  the  Waterworks,  and  Baths.  Nearer,  are 
seen  St.  Louis  and  St.  Lawrence  suburbs. 

S.  S.  EasU  on  the  opposite  shore,  La  Prairie  ;  and 
nearly  over  it,  the  site  of  St.  John's,  which  is  not  dis- 
tinguishable. In  a  range  with  them,  is  Nuns'  Island, 
and  Nuns'  Farm,  the  latter  on  this  shore      The  river 

S2 


?ur. 


UOIJTE    IN    CAKADA. 


is  3 J  miles  wide.  The  suburbs  on  the  soutli  side  oi 
the  city)  arc  St.  Antoine,  Ricolet,  St.  Anne's,  and  St. 
.loscph's.     Distant  Mountains. 

Jvorth.  Bout  de  I'lsle,  the  extremity  of  Montreal 
Island,  Pointe  aux  Trembles,  and  (he  villatce  of  Bou- 
cherville  ;  opposite  which  is  Longueil,  and  further 
down,  Varennes,  with  a  two-steepied  church. 

JV.  Eastf  the  view  is  boundless,  with  a  succession  of 
cultivated  tields,  which  in  the  distance  become  quite 
undistinj^uishable.  The  same  appearance,  it  will 
hereat^er  be  seen,  extends  along  the  river's  banks 
quite  to  Quebec. 

Road  round  the  Mountain. — The  road  near  the 
north  end  of  the  mountain  is  ornamented  with  many 
beautiful  seats,  and  there  are  also  some  extensive 
manufactories.  Behind  it  is  a  fme  extent  of  culti- 
vatod  ground. 

Othbr  Excursions. 

To  Lachine,  9  miles,  or  3  leagues.  The  river  road 
pleasantest :  giving  a  view  of  tne  Rapids,  Nuns'  and 
Heron  Islands,  the  Indian  village  of  (vaughnawaga  op« 
posite,  and  crossing  the  Lachine  Canal,  At  Lachine 
is  a  small  house  kept  by  an  American.  Crystals  of 
axenite  (carb.  lime)  were  found  in  excavating  the 
canal.  The  pebbles  alone  the  shore  are  the  frag- 
ments of  granite,  while  the  olack,or  deep  purple  rocks 
which  form  the  channel  are  limestone,  lying  in  strata 
nearly  horizontal. 

To  Pointe  aux  Trembles  and  Bout  de  Vkle, 
The  southern  road  to  the  Mountain,  which  crosses  it 
at  the  less  elevated  part  of  the  rid^e,  near  the  middle, 
leads  through  St.  .loseph's  suburbs,  and  afterward 
passes  a  number  of  fine  country  seats.  The  most  re- 
markable are  those  of  Mr.  M*Gillivray,  and  the  late 
Mr.  Gregory,  members  of  the  old  North-West  Com- 
pany, whicn  has  lately  been  converted  into  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company.    It  engro?«ed  the  Indian  trade 


f     .;;> 


'■'A 


ith  side  01 
s,  and  St. 

'  Montreal 
e  of  Bou- 
id  further 
h. 

[;ctssion  of 
ome  quite 
e,  it  will 
!r*8  banks 

near  the 

vith  many 

extensive 

t  of  calti" 


'►A-,.  .• 


.   ■  ...  ,r         ) 


t^..*  . . 


■A*<<4» 


''^l 


•'^li^i,  .-ijp.ss  :ii       '*    '^     ^  .   ,.« 


*"  J'  :V    • 

■    s  ■ 


,'-' 


;v:>  •^,,, 


.'  •.  # 


;.^' 


I^r^ 


i.''t^>' 


«%- 


river  road 
Vuns^  and 
iwaga  op- 

Lachine 
rystals  of 
ating  the 
the  frag- 
ile rocks 

in  strata 


crosses  it 
;  middle, 
fterward 
most  re- 
the  late 
St  Com- 
Hud- 
an  trado 


^S/^: 

--^m. 


■■',■'    ';., i'                ^  % .   .  --.r-    .   '   .-■■«.,..."■•..■_' 

■.T^*"'.      -;^   /^r 

'■«»'*•>■*•■.>,*.. ',t*- 

,       V.**'^^^^  >'!.*^:;--' 

he 


16 


.NqtAl. 


.HO^TRBAL. 


2U7 


loi'  a  vast  distance  up  the  lakes,  and  enriched  many 
individuals,  whose  residences  add  materially  to  the 
appearance  of  the  city  and  its  environs. 

The  Priests'  Farm  is  passed  on  the  left,  near  the 
base  of  the  mountain,  and  is  a  larg^e  tract  of  land,  with 
an  old  building;  in  the  ancient  European  style,  pre- 
servitjfsf  many  of  the  features  of  feudal  days,  with  its 
pr(|jectine:  square  towers,  small  windows,  pointed 
roofs,  and  vvcHiht^r-beaten  walls.  The  barns  con- 
nected with  it  are  very  sp.icious,  nnd  seem  capable 
of  containing  a  large  part  of  the  products  of  the  farm. 
The  only  wonder  seems  to  be  what  a  few  old  men  can 
do  with  !such  vast  stores,  as  well  as  with  their  receipts 
from  various  other  quarters. 

The  whole  island  of  Montreal  is  a  Seigneurie,  in 
which  the  monks  of  Kicolet,  as  Seigneurs,  have  the 
right  of  a  tax  on  every  farm,  on  every  purchase  and 
ssde  of  real  estate,  and  many  other  privileges,  vested 
in  them  by  the  king  of  France  on  the  first  settlement 
of  the  place.  Circumstances  have  conspired  to  reduce 
3nd  destroy  many  of  these  privileges,  so  that  the  an- 
nual income  of  the  priests,  irom  this  rich  and  valuable 
Seigneurie,  though  targe,  is  very  trivial,  in  comparison 
with  its  extent  and  fertility. 

Col.  Allen,  with  his  detachment  for  the  surprise  of 
Montreal,  in  1776,  crossed  the  river  from  Longueil  ; 
but  Major  Brown,  not  being  able  to  land  above  the 
city  as  was  intended,  the  former  was  taken  prisoner 
bjr  Gov.  Carleton,  after  a  sharp  engagement,  loaded 
with  irons,  and  sent  to  England.  Col.  Warner  after- 
ward erected  batteries  on  the  shore  at  Longueil,  by 
which  he  drove  back  the  governor  when  he  attempted 
to  land  on  his  way  to  relieve  St.  John's. 

The  population  of  Montreal,  by  a  census  taken  in 
1825,  was  nearly  24,000 ;  and  4  or  500  greater  than 
that  of  Quebec. 


208 


UOUTI5  IN  rANAI»\. 


Till-:  UIDIOAII  CANAL. 

T\m  work,  which  \h  in  pioiifirMs  at  thi;  exprnsti  ol" 
liri'iit  liiitiiin,  is  \o  ffliiM;!  a  navi^^ahle  coininiinirBtioii 
btiiwecii  Lakt!  Ontario  and  (he  ()ltawa  river.  While 
a  lino  of  frontier  fortresHes  iH  to  he  eonHtructc^d,  in- 
cluding those  at  C|iiel)e(*,  and  Montreal,  a(  an  eNtiniated 
exnen.se  of  79I{,(MH)/.,  an  interior  line  of  navi|<;ati()n  is 
to  ue  formed,  of  which  ihi.s  is  a  pari,  at  tin;  su|[)pose(l 
cast  of  rj527,(KM)/.  The  object  ol  it  is  to  secure,  in  time 
of  war,  the  transportation  of  milit.iry  stores,  ike.  hy  an 
interior  route,  less  exposed  to  the  l)nited  States,  and 
practicable  in  lake  vess(>ls  of  l"'^'  tons.  It  is  a  ^reat 
undertaking!^,  and  when  complete!  which  it  will  pn»ba> 
biy  be  in  a  few  years,  will  alFord  a  most  interest iii|y|; 
episode  to  the  travelliMs^  lour.  It  will  nresent  a  com- 
bination of  (ine  natural  objects  and  noble  structures  of 
art..  ThoMo  who  have  leisure,  will  be  pleased  with  a 
view  of  some  of  the  works  in  iheir  unfinished  state. 
Otlu^rs  may  perhaps  read  with  u^ratification  a  brief 
description  o(  some  of  the  principal  objects  on  the 
I'oute.  Stap;(;  coaches  run  to  By  town  in  connexion 
with  steamboats. 

At  Merrick's  Snic,  arc  to  l)e  3  locks  of  0  feet  lift ; 
and  a  dam,  7  feet  U\^\\  and  lUO  lon^,  at  the  head  of  it, 
to  lift  the  Itideau  river  into  tlie  Snie.  Corisiderable 
excavations  of  eartli  and  rock  in  the  Snie. 

At  Kdmund's  llapids,  a  dam  8  feet  hig;h,  and  400 
lonp  ;  and  a  lock  of  6  feet  lift.  'I'he  excavations,  both 
earth  and  rock,  are  considerable.  Near  Pliilip\s,  at 
the  same  rapids,  is  anojher  dam,  H  ieet  hif^h  and  S60 
lonii: ;  and  a  lock  of  6  t'eet  lift. 

At  the  Old  Slys,  on  the  Rapids  of  Smith's  Fall,  is 
a  dam  18  feet  hidi  and  210  lono: :  and  two  locks  of  8 
feel  lift.  ^ 

At  the  First  Kapids  is  a  dam  0  feet  in  heidit  and 
260  in  lenjjth,  with  a  lock  of  7  feet  lift.  There  is 
also  an  einl)ankment  of  wood  and  clay,  2  miles  long. 


J'ltlii  OTTAWA    i{iV)J{. 


U{i\i 


\i  ClialToy's  Mills  jh  a  dnm  *J0  feet  liip;h  and  80  wide, 
with  two  locliM  oil)  U'vi  lilt. 

At  Nicholhon'H  KapidM  is  a  dam  1H  iv.oA  lii^h  and  240 
lornr ;  a  luck  oi'  10  I'eet  lilt,  and  an  embankment  h  («et 
liiirti  and  '2lH)  in  length,  &c.  ikv,. 

The  stone  wbh  found  conv«nient  on  the  ground,  and 
also  l||ne,  W(K)d,  and  ntonc. 

The  Uiditau  (/anal  will  oprn  to  a  naviji^alilc  con- 
nexion a  vaHt  extent  of  country,  and  ii'  extended  bc' 
yond  the  Kideau  Lake,^  would  lead  to  the  .shored  ol 
lukes  and  rivera,  an  yet  iinpert'ectly  known,  ah  indeed 
are  thoxe  through  which  the  canal  already  lies.  The 
road  iVoni  Kingston  to  IMontreal  croHsen  the  liideau 
Canal  at  Tuttle^M  hill,  and  a  new  village  called  Kver- 
grt»en. 

lioatA  ^o  iVoiTi  Montreal  up  t)i<;  (irand  liiver  to  tlio 
mouth  ol  llio  Kidc^au,  and  tlic:;  coinin(.>ncement  oi  the 
€anal,  hy  the  La  Chine  and  (ircnvilU;  carmh.  A  paH- 
sai^e  may  now  Ix;  eanily  olitiiirHMl  in  htnairtboats.  The 
William  Kiuff,  a  boat  built  oit  tin;  Annesley  plan,  bep^arl 
in  iii-J!)  to  tun  between  llawkeMbury,  (J-renville,  and 
Hull,  in  connexion  with  a  line. 

Hylowii,  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Kideau  and 
Ottawa  ;  it  is  liiU  miles  from  Montreal,  and  ISO  from 


400 
both 
•s,  at 

260 


III,  IS 

of  8 


*  Nonrly  'voHt  ffom  the  ciiy  of  MdtitronI,  dlvlnnt  n\mui  90  milcii,  tfin 
Ottawn  rlvnr  rroiii  the  went  rail"  iiiio  oik;  ol'  tin-  hnyH«»f  UloHt.  Iwiwnsurj'. 
TIki  Otinvvii  iH  llNttK  It  laiK*'  niid  iiiiviKnhl«!  iilrcnm,  rlHliiir  in  llio  revvtuntn 
oniic  ('lil|i|i)'Wii  i'oiiniiy  (lv<>  or  hIx  tiiiiiitnii  iiiil«>H  iiortli  w<'hI  fniiii  tlio 
iHtand  itiiil  (Ityor  MontrrnI ;  rinwlnu  tuirili  fflHt  iinril  williiii  iihoiit  Vjf) 
iriilcH  aliovi'  iiM  inoiitli,  kmm  ivi'm  IMiIi-iiii,  and  aMHiiiiiliiff  n  lu-arly  cnitfrly 
dinr.lldii,  coDiiiiiiiilciiti'H  with  lluf  Hi.  liaWHttii'c,  aw  iiln-ady  Htnii'd. 

Tlio  Itldi'aii  \ti  aFiiHill,  lull  nn  iiii|iititaril  livcr,  riHiii|{  in  liCcdM  county, 
lownHhtpof'KltN'y,  l.owi'f  Canada,  vxtitiln  ^MhniU'HoI'liM  Hr.  I.nurftncr, 
at  III):  loWor  iind  iiI'iIk*  'I'lion-anii  iNlimdM.  At  itit  miiircit  tint  Ridcnu  in 
u  NiuKuiNli  Ntrcani,  and  In  no  part  of  itH  comHtt  inncli  iuipfdcd  tty  I'aliti ; 
'^^n  fiitlrn  loiitflli,  liowcvrr,  U  not  nl>ovi'  00  nill<-H ;  ronrw  nortli-<*nHt  nl'arly. 

Monr  til)'  iifud  oniit*  UldiMin,  and  on  ilntHiinc  tut)l«i  land,i!Xi«ridHlal<o 
^•annr)noqui,diHcliai!j:ln((  iiri  vvatcrN  into  the  Ht.  Lawr«ocf/iOniil«!ri  liOioiv 
KinKNton,  and  lli«!  Itotloin  of  lakt;  Ontario.  Thi!  iintlrc  diMiaiico  frotii 
tlu)  inotitli  of  tin;  OitawaN  to  ttmt  ol  ilic  Oaiinonoitnl,  liy  tlio  roiiti;  ortli«> 
intended ranal,  \«  luinily  lUO  inlli'H,  an<l  liy  liic  Hi.  I.awnnco  MM».  'J'li'< 
I'linai  rout*',  thnrfdH',  cvcccdn  iluit  of  tlic  Ht.  I,(i\vi«rir»'.  an  1,0  fu  10  •-(  'n 
nmf'i  Pfipn 


iilO 


1{UI;TE    in  CANADA. 


Kingston,  and  is  expected  to  !)ec()me  an  important 
place  iVoin  its  situation.  The  Kideau  received  its 
French  name  from  the  beautiful  cascade,  like  a  white 
cwWatVi,  with  which  it  descends  21  feet,  into  the 
Ottawa.  North  of  the  town  the  Ottawa  \h  about  a 
mile  in  brc^adth.  It  has  a  fall  of  32  feet,  and  is  diver- 
sified with  numerous  islands.  Below  the  t:il|  th«()!vater 
is  very  deep  ;  and  the  Rideaii  Canal  here  descends  to 
it  down  a  narrow  cleft  in  a  precipitous  bank  by  eight 
locks  of  fine  stone  wor({,  ten  feet  lift.  The  canal,  on 
gaining  the  eminence,  passes  throuuii  the  village,  and 
opens  upon  a  large  beaver  meaoow  of  SfiO  acres, 
which  receives  a  branch  canal  from  Lake  Chaudiere 
on  the  Ottawa,  and  will  form  a  large  basin  for  timber. 
A  little  south  of  the  town  is  a  mountainous  ridge, 
through  which  the  canal  passes  by  a  natural  notch. 
The  western  part  of  the  village  is  situated  on  high 
and  commanding  ground  ;  and  an  hospital  and  military 
barracks  have  been  erected  on  the  Cape,  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  200  feet  above  the  river.  This  is  capable  of 
being  rendered  impregnable,  and  has  attracted  the 
attention  of  English  engineers. 

Co66's  Cave  is  an  extensive  cavern,  discovered  in 
1828  by  a  lady. 

By  town  was  a  wilderness  in  1826  :  and  in  1827  con- 
tained 2000  inhabitants,  with  a  market,  school-house, 
and  four  churches  built  and  building.  It  is  likely  to 
become  a  place  of  great  trade,  even  in  furs  ;  and  there 
are  mines  of  iron,  lead,  and  tin,  and  quarries  of  marble 
in  ihf  vicinity. 

The  Great  Ottawa  Bridge. — This  is  an  immense 
structure,  of  bold  design  and  admirable  worknanship. 
The  first  two  arches  on  the  Lower  Canada  side,  are 
each  sixty  feet  span,  and  of  stone,  extending  over  the 
two  channels  on  that  side  of  the  Kettle.  Then  follows 
a  piece  of  wooden  bridge,  rising  on  trestles,  which 
brings  the  traveller  to  an  island,  beyond  which  is  a 
rapid  and  tumultuous  current,  called  the  Chaudiere 
Great  Kettle.    Over  this  an  attempt  was  made,  which 


nii-;  8T.  LAWuK.Nct:. 


^It 


"Was  repeated  in  182R  with  succefl.s,  to  throw  a  mag- 
nificent archf  of  2120  feet  .span.  Two  arches  cross  the 
smaller  channels  oi:  the  other  side. 

From  the  hriilj^e  a  tine  road  had  been  opened  in  the 
upper  province  to  the  village.  A  wooden  bridge  on 
this  road,  114  feet  ^ipan,  crosses  a  gulley. 

Hull  is  opposite  Bytown,  connected  with  it  by  the 
great  Ottawa  liridge.  1  his  township  belongs  to 
Philemon  Wright,  Hsq.  an  American  I'armer  of  great 
affli.ence  and  exfierience.  His  settlement,  called 
Wrightstown,  is  seen  from  liytown,  being  situated  at 
the  Falls. 

RouTR  FROM  Month KATi  to  Niaoaka. 
(For  this  route  see  pages  104  to  109.) 

ROUTE  FROM  MONTKKAL  TO  QUEBEC 

ROAO    TO    (ilJUBKO. 

Notwithstanding  the  common  prejudices  against 
travelling  by  land  in  Canada,  which  are  entertained 
by  many  persons  not  acquainted  with  the  country,  it 
is  recommended  to  those  who  may  find  it  convenient, 
to  make  arrangements  for  performing  a  part  of  the 
journey  in  this  manner,  either  going  or  returning. 

The  countiy  is  indeed  a  dead  level,  but  it  is  entirely 
reduced  to  cultivation,  thickly  populated,  and  blessed 
with  good  roads.  The  way  lies  along  the  very  margin 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  passing  an  almost  uninterrupted 
succession  of  dwellings,  and  supplied  with  many  com- 
fortable and  some  good  inns,  which  will  be  particu- 
larly mentioned.  i 

As  the  strength  of  the  current  makes  the  passage  of 
the  steamboats  up  the  river  about  12  hours  longer  than 
that  down,  it  would  on  this  account  be  better  to  return 
\ky  land ;  and  this  course  would  certainly  be  recom- 
mended, but  for  the  greater  difliculty  of  obtaining  goof I 
carriages  in  Quebec..     It  is  to  be  hoped  that  regulai- 


'212 


KOUTE  TO  UtEBEC. 


coaches  will  Cic  long  be  established  to  run  betweeii 
the  two  cities ;  for,  at  present,  it  is  necessary  to  hire 
a  caleche,  or  a  stage  coach,  at  a  pretty  high  price. 
At  TTiree  Rivers  (Trois  Rivieres),  60  miles,  the  tra- 
veller may  dismiss  his  carriage,  and  enter  the  steam- 
boats, which  regularly  stop  there  up  and  down. 

Steamboat  to  Quebec. 

Leaving  Montreal  in  the  steamboat,  vou  pass  under 
the  fort  on  St.  Helen's  Island,  the  steeples  and  cupolas 
of  the  city  being  seen  nearly  in  the  followinff  order  be- 
ginning at  the  south  end ;  Gray  Nuns',  Ricolet  Churchf 
black  Nu.is',  New  and  Old  Cathedrals,  Episcopal 
Church,  Nelson's  Monument,  Bon-secour  Church. 
Near  the  last,  on  the  shore,  is  the  Masonic  Hotel,  theia 
the  Barracks,  Waterworks,  and  Baths,  the  beginning 
of  the  Q'-^bec  suburbs,  the  residences  of  Judge  Reed 
and  Mr.  Malson,  with  terraced  gardens  towards  the 
river,  &c.  A  little  below  is  Malson's  Brewery,  and 
the  late  Sir  John  Johnson's  residence,  (a  grandson  of 
Sir  William  Johnson,  for  whom  seepage  57.)  The 
house  is  of  brick,  with  a  piazza. 

The  Rapids  of  St.  Mary  are  between  the  island  and 
these  last-raentioned  objects,  and  run  with  such  rapidity 
that  ste.miboats  are  sometimes  obliged  to  be  drawn  up 
by  caiUe  a  little  distance. 

Longueih  just  below  St.  Helen's. 

Longue  Pointe,  6  miles  (2  leagues)  from  Montreal. 

Verchet  es^  on  the  east  side. 

Varennes  has  a  church  with  double  spire. 

Pointe  aux  Trembles^  9  miles,  (3  leagues.)  Here  is 
a  nunnery,  in  wliich  is  a  pretty  lai^e  school  for  girls. 
There  are  two  good  inns  in  the  place. 

Bout  de  Vkle,     Here  is  no  village,  but  only  a  ferrj^ 

Contreccsur^  on  the  east. 

Repentignyy  a  pretty  village. 

At  this  place  it  is  recommended  to  the  traveller  by 
land,  to  make  a  deviation  from  the  direct  road  alonjr 


TKAOK  01   'I  HE  ST.  LAWIUOACE. 


213 


jtweeii 
to  hire 
price, 
the  tra- 
sleam- 


is  under 
cupolas 
rder  be-* 
Church  f 
piscopal 
Church. 
>tel,  then 
egiuning 
ge  Keea 
ards  the 
ery,  and 
ndson  of 
r.)    The 

land  and 
1  rapidity 
iravvn  up 


onlreal. 


Here  is 
for  girls 


ya 


ferr:^ 


veller  by 
oad  aloniJ 


tile  river,  if  he  finds  it  convenient^  to  see  the  delightful 
country  between  it  and  the  town  of  Assomption.  There 
is  a  beautiful  road  on  each  bank,  varied  with  houses 
and  trees.  Return  so  as  to  strike  the  road  near  St. 
Sulpice. 

St.  Sulpice,  24  miles  (8  leagues)  from  Montreal. 

La  Moraye. 

Berthier.  Here  is  an  excellent  inn,  kept  b^  a  man 
from  the  United  States,  whose  wife  is  a  Canadian. 

Machiche  is  a  pretty  town,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Riviere  du  Loup,  and  has  a  very  neat  and  comfortable 
inn,  of  the  best  Canadian  stamp,  and  famous  for  many 
miles  round.  Many  French  customs  are  still  preserved 
by  the  unmixed  inhabitants  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  some 
ot  which  are  agreeable  and  interesting.  At  many  of 
the  inns,  the  traveller  will  receive  the  most  kind  and 
hospitable  attentions,  and  will  find  great  gratification 
in  observing  the  handsome  flower-gardens,  as  well  as 
the  neat  arrangement  of  the  furniture.  At  this  house 
is  a  handsome  collection  of  green-house  plants. 

There  is  very  little  variety  to  be  discovered  in  the 
nature  1  surface  of  the  ground,  but  the  journey  through 
this  region  presents  almost  an  unvarying  scene  of  cul- 
tivation and  fertility.  For  a  great  part  of  the  distance, 
there  is  a  narrow  strip  of  corn  or  potatoes  between  the 
road  and  the  river's  bank,  to  correspond  with  the  fields 
which  stretch  off  to  such  a  distance  on  the  other  hand  ; 
and  the  variety  of  crops,  and  the  occasional  rows  and 
clumps  of  trees,  remove,  in  a  good  degree,  the  natural 
sianieness  of  the  landscape. 

Navigation  and  Trade  of  thk  St. 
Lawrence,  &/C. 

Steamboats  are  of  the  utmost  importance  on  this  ^reat 
river,  for  they  contribute  extremely  to  the  convenience 
and  expedition  of  travellii^,  and  render  most  valuable 
iiss'stance  to  commerce.  There  are  many  steamboats 
'  <»nst!5intly  employed  between  Montreal  and  Quebec, 


14 


KUIITE    TO   UDKUEC. 


most  ol  them  fitted  to  accommodate  pa.s.seiigeii},  m 
well  as  to  carry  freig^ht,  and  all  providea  with  power- 
ful enpjines.  In  1820  a  passage  was  made  from  Que- 
bec to  Montreal,  in  a  steamboat,  in  20  hours  and  40 
minutes — the  shortest  ever  known.  The  principal 
article  of  export  from  Canada  is  lumber,  a  great  deal 
of  which  is  carried  to  Quebec  in  immense  rafts,  and 
then  shipped  for  England.  These  rafts  have  usually 
a  great  number  of  sails  to  hoist  in  a  fair  wind,  with 
huts  to  shelter  the  men  from  the  weather,  so  that  they 
have  a  very  singular  appearance,  and  at  a  little  dis- 
tance look  like  a  fleet  of  sail  boats.  The  population 
of  Lower  Canada  is  estimated  at  about  200,000. 
The  French  Canadians,  notwithstanding  the  common 

Prejudices  against  them,  appear,  on  acquaintance,  to 
e  an  intelligent  people.  They  certainly  are  amiable, 
cheerful,  and  gay,  and  their  backwardness  in  imjprove- 
ments  is  attributable  to  the  system  under  which  they 
live.  They  are  generally  brought  up  in  great  igno- 
rance, and  they  arc;  taugnt  to  dislike  and  avoid  not 
only  the  Protestant  principles,  but  Protestants  them- 
selves. The  author  has  the  word  of  one  of  their 
priests  for  stating,  that  not  more  than  one-sixth  of  the 
population  are  ever  taught  to  read  or  write.  In  New- 
England,  as  is  well  known,  the  law  provides  for  the 
instruction  of  every  child,  without  exception :  and 
every  child  is  actually  instructed.  Books  and  news- 
papers, therefore,  lose  their  effect  as  well  as  their 
value  among  these  people.  The  British  government 
have  encouraged  schools  here,  but  until  lately,  almost 
without  success.  Amon^  thrrse  regions  where  English 
and  Scotch  have  settled,  mstruction  is  gaining  ground  ; 
and  in  Montreal,  the  public  schools  are  rising  in  im- 
portance :  but  it  is  to  be  feared  that  the  Catholic 
priests  will  long  continue  to  oppose  the  extension  ol 
real  knowledge,  and  that  while  they  retain  their  in- 
fluence, the  character  of  the  fieople  will  remain  de- 
pressed. 
The  "  Procedure''^  ot  Canada  is  founded  on  the  edict 


TOWK    or   bOREL. 


21o 


ers,  as 

power- 

n  Que- 

and  40 

rincipal 

at  Heal 

fts,  and 

usually 

id,  with 

lat  they 

ttle  dia- 

pulation 

10. 

common 

tance,  to 

amiable, 

mprove- 

lich  they 

iat  igno- 

void  not 

its  them- 
of  their 

th  of  the 
In  New- 

is  for  the 
on:    and 
nd  news- 
as  their 
vernment 
y,  almost 
e  Etigiisli 
ground ; 
ng:  in  im- 
Catholic 
[tension  ot 
i  their  in- 
emain  de- 

,  ilje  edict 


ut  Louis  1 4th,  of  1667,  and  is  the  basis  of  the  Civil 
Code.  There  were  no  lawyers  before  the  conquest 
in  1759,  when  they  were  created ;  and  martial  law 
prevailed  from  that  time  till  1774.  The  trial  by  jury 
was  introduced  in  1785 ;  and  the  constitutional  charter 
in  1791. 

There  are  many  signs  of  prosperity  exhibited  by  the 
farmers  between  Montreal  and  Three  Hi  vers,  in  the 
extension  or  erection  of  buildings.  On  each  farm  is 
usually  to  be  seen  about  half  an  acre  of  Indian  corn, 
which  will  furnish  18  or  20  bushels  ;  and  it  is  the  cus- 
tom not  to  build  fences,  the  cattle  being  kept  from  the 
land,  and  fed  on  weeds  until  the  crops  are  off. 

The  houses  are  generally  of  one  story,  and  are  built 
of  wood  or  stone,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  coun- 
try. Some  of  them  are  formed  of  squared  timbers, 
and  even  of  round  logs  ;  but  the  latter  are  usually  em- 
ployed for  the  construction  of  barns  only,  which  are 
often  covered  with  thatch.  The  houses  and  bams  are 
frequently  composed  of  several  small  buildings,  erected 
at  different  periods,  according  to  the  capacity  or  neces- 
sities of  the  proprietors. 

William  Henry,  or  Sorel, 

45  miles f  or  15  leagues,  from  Montreal* 

This  town,  though  quite  small,  is  one  of  the  princi* 
pal  places  between  the  two  capitals  ^t  is  on  the 
south  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  i  louth  of  the 
Sorel,  or  Richelieu,  in  a  very  sandy  situation;  and 
contains  nothing  worthy  of  notice  except  a  little  old 
church,  a  palisadoed  fort,  and  a  neat  little  square,  at 
the  distance  of  a  short  walu,  surrounded  with  several 
pretty  white  houses,  a  church,  &c.  a  little  in  the  New- 
England  style.  The  fences  are  generally  low,  and 
afford  the  sight  of  gardens. 

The  flowers  which  abound  in  the  Canadian  gardens 
pre  principally  roses,  carnations,  sweet-williams,  can- 


21i> 


UOVTK   TO   QUEBEC. 


didus,  monthly  roses  (blossoming  only  a  part  of  t&^ 
year). 

As  the  steamboats  usually  stop  here  half  an  hour  or 
more,  there  is  time  enough  to  go  on  shore.  The  popu- 
lation principally  consists  of  disbanded  soldiers,  so  that 
the  dwellings  are  generally  poor,  and  most  of  the  peo- 
pie  speak  some  direct  of  English.  The  garrison  con- 
tains only  30  or  40  men  in  time  of  peace,  and  the  com- 
manding oflBcer  has  a  pretty  residence  opposite  the 
town,  where  the  fields  have  a  green  and  fertile  ap- 
pearance. 

The  Government  House  stands  about  three-quarters 
of  a  mile  beyond  the  town.  It  is  a  large  red  building, 
with  barracKS  near  it.  The  boat  turns  round  on  leav- 
ing Sorel,  and  returns  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  distant 
land  beginning  to  have  some  elevation. 

On  the  opposite  point,  Gen.  Montgomery  erected 
batteries  on  taking  tne  place,  in  1776,  and  prepared 
rafts  and  floating  oatteries,  which  maintained  an  en- 
gagement with  the  ships  in  which  Gov.  Carleton  at- 
tempted to  escape  to  Qjiiebec,  and  drove  him  back 
towards  Montreal.  He  afterward  passed  them  in  an 
open  boat  at  night ;  but  his  vessels  fell  into  the  hands 
01  the  Americans. 

Berthier  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
but  out  of  sight,  being  behind  several  low  islands. 
Some  of  the  steamboats  stop  there  instead  of  at  Sorel. 
There  is  a  ferry  across. 

Lake  St.  Peter. 

On  entering  this  large  tract  of  water,  the  shores  at 
the  opposite  end  appear  like  mere  lines  upon  the  hori- 
zon, the  land  being  still  so  flat  near  the  river  as  to 
seem  hardly  sufficient  to  prevent  it  from  overflowing. 
A  vessel  at  the  opposite  end  appears  like  a  mere 
«peck,  the  length  of  the  lake  beit^"  20  miles. 

Pointe.  (in  Lnr,  or  Woodlands,  is  seen  on  tbo  northern 


THREE   KlVKRiS. 


217 


of  th^ 

hour  or 
B  popu- 
,  so  that 
he  peo- 
lon  con- 
be  coin- 
site  the 
tile  ap- 

quarters 
»uilding, 
on  leav- 
i  distant 

erected 
>repared 
.  an  en- 
eton  at- 
im  back 
m  in  an 
]e  hands 

Lwrence, 

islands. 

at  Sorel. 


shores  at 
the  hori- 
er  as  to 
rflowing". 
a  mere 

northern 


iihore,  when  nearly  across ;  but  it  is  situated  beyond 
the  lake.  A  ridge  of  hi^h  land  continues  on  the  north, 
following  the  coqrse  of  the  river. 

Opposite  Woodlands  is  NicoleU  9  miles  from  Three 
Rivers.  The  place  is  large,  and  contains  an  English 
and  a  French  church,  together  with  a  nunnery,  and  a 
college,  founded  by  the  Catholic  bishop  of  Quebec. 

Three  Rivers,  [Trois  Rivieres,]  Halfway. 

This  is  the  largest  town  between  Montreal  and  Que- 
bec, and  is  96  miles  from  the  former,  and  84  from  the 
latter.  The  streets  are  generally  straight,  and  regu- 
larly built,  though  narrow ;  and  the  houses,  although 
neat,  are  generally  only  one  or  two  stories  high,  with 
windows  in  the  roofs,  aiKi  being  principally  plastered, 
have  rather  a  dark  aspect,  like  those  of  Montreal.  It 
contains  shops  of  various  sorts,  and  several  inns  of  a 
decent  appearance. 

The  Nunnery  is  in  the  etst  part  of  the  town,  and 
has  extensive  gnxinds  connected  with  it. 

The  Chapel  of  the  Convent  has  a  number  of  pic- 
tures, of  which  the  one  on  the  right  ot  the  main  altar 
is  the  best :  Magdalen  weeping.  The  Parish  Church 
is  in  the  south  part  of  the  town.  Two  large  buildings, 
formerly  the  Court  House  and  Jail,  with  the  Nunnery, 
are  the  principal  objects. 

While  the  American  forces  were  on  the  retreat  from 
Quebec,  in  1775,  Gen.  Sullivan  sent  Gen.  Thompson 
duvvn  from  Sorel  to  attack  this  place.  He  went  down 
the  right  bank  of  Lake  St.  Peter,  and  landed  9  miles 
from  the  town ;  but  being  discovered  and  misled,  he 
found  Gen.  Frazer  drawn  up  in  order  of  battle,  while 
Gen.  Nesbit  was  sent  to  cut  off  his  retreat ;  and  the 
battle,  which  immediately  commenced,  was  short  and 
disastrous  to  the  assailants,  who  lost  their  commander, 
and  many  officers  and  soldiers,  as  prisoners,  although 
they  had  few  killed.  After  several  hours  we  ap^ 
proach 

T  « 


\ 


^  /y    '      llOCTJi   TO  airEI{£r. 


'^  L«  BigneuXf  a  village  on  the  south  side  oi  the  river^ 
known  by  its  double-spired  church.  It  stands  on  a 
steep  bank,  about  60  feet  high,  and  marks  the  com- 
mencement of  the  Richelieu  rapids. 

The  river  here  winds  between  broken  banks,  and 
the  number  of  cottages  is  so  great  as  to  make  the  scene 
more  animating.  A  few  blue,  but  not  lofty,  mountains 
are  seen  down  the  river. 


Rafids  of  Richelieu. 

The  river,  which  is  about  two  miles  wide,  here 
runs  with  great  velocity,  particularly  the  first  three 
miles ;  but  the  water  is  deep,  and  the  surface  unbro- 
ken, except  near  the  shores,  which  are  lined  with  in- 
numerable  loose  round  stones  and  rocks,  extremely 
dangerous  to  vessels  when  they  get  among  them. 
These  rocks  seem  placed  with  much  regularity,  form- 
ing two  ranges,  and  making  the  water  appear  as  if  it 
had  a  gradual  swell  from  both  sides  to  the  middle  of 
the  river.  Although  the  navigation  of  this  part  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  requires  great  skill  and  caution  in  other 
vessels,  steamboats  pass  with  security ;  yet,  on  account 
of  the  force  of  the  current  at  ebb  tide,  even  they  are 
obliged  to  vary  their  hours  of  leaving  Quebec,  in  such 
a  way  as  to  have  the  flood  through  the  rapids.  Ves- 
sels are  often  seen  waiting  at  the  bottom  of  the  rapids 
for  a  change  of  tide,  or  for  a  steamboat  to  tow  them 
up.     The  rapids  extend  about  nine  miles. 

Si,  Anto{ne,on  the  south  bank,  is  18  miles  (6  leagues) 
frojn  Quebec.  The  mountain  seen  towards  the  north- 
cast  is  that  of  Lorette,  and  the  bank  on  that  side  makes 
a  beaidtiful  slope  to  the  river,  agreeably  varied  by 
cultivated  fields,  interrupted  by  occasional  patches  of 
woodland :  on  the  side  of  the  ridge,  about  midway 
from  the  water  to  the  top,  passes  the  road.  The  south 
shore,  on  the  contrary,  continues  high  and  abrupt,  and 
nearly  perpendicular,  with  innumerable  cottages  peep^ 
insf  over  the  brow. 


Wolfe's  cove. 


iilii 


e  river, 
Is  on  a 
B  €om- 

kS)  and 
le  scene 
)untains 


le,  here 
it  three 
1  unbro- 
vith  in- 
tremely 
;  them. 
f,  form- 
'  as  if  it 
iddle  of 
t  of  the 
in  other 
account 
hey  are 
in  such 
Ves- 
e  rapids 
w  them 

eagues) 
e  nortii- 
i  makes 
ried  by 
tches  of 
nidwav 
le  souHi 
apt,  and 
Bspeepji 


Pointe  aux  Trembles,  a  village  on  the  north  shore. 
The  river  is  about  the  same  breadth  all  along  here^ 
viz.  about  two  miles,  although  it  appears  much  nar- 
rower ;  the  depth  is  about  nve  fathoms,  and  the  tide 
rises  14  or  15  feet.  Notwithstanding  the  thickness  of 
the  population  on  the  chores,  the  country  is  a  wilder- 
ness only  about  four  miles  back,  being  comprehended 
in  what  is  called  the  King^s  Hunting  Ground,  which  ex- 
tends from  Three  Rivers, 40 or  50  mMes  below  this  place. 

Jacques  Cartier,  30  miles  from  Quebec.  This  is  a 
village  on  the  north  side,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  of  the  same  name,  which  is  likewise  distinguished 
by  the  name  of  the  first  explorer  of  the  river  St.  Law- 
rence. Here  are  the  remains  of  the  first  church  built 
in  Canada. 

Carouge  Creek,  on  the  north  side.  Here  a  pretty 
view  opens,  for  a  few  minutes,  into  the  interior,  on  the 
north  shore,  showing  the  Indian  village  of  Lorette,  at 
the  distance  of  three  or  four  miles,  with  an  extent  of 
beautiful  land,  and  a  range  of  fine  nnountains  in  the 
rear. 

Chaudiere  River  is  a  little  below,  with  a  rock  on 
the  lower  side,  at  its  mouth. 

Looking  down  the  St.  Lawrence,  part  of  Point  Levi 
is  seen,  covered  with  white  buildings,  one  of  which  is 
the  church.  It  is  opposite  Quebec,  which  remains  for 
a  considerable  distance  invisible.  The  banks  rise  to 
a  greater  and  greater  height,  and  present  every  variety 
of  surface. 

Sillefu  Cove  is  a  mile  below,  above  which  was 
fought  tne  final  battle  between  the  English  and  French, 
in  1759,  after  the  capture  of  Quebec  by  General  Wolfe, 
which  completed  the  conquest  of  Canada.  Ai  the 
village  are  the  remains  of  the  first  church  ever  built 
in  Canada. 

Wo^^s  Cove  is  behind  the  next  point.  This  is  the 
place  where  Wolfe  landed  in  the  night,  and  up  the 
precipitous  bank  he  climbed  with  his  troops,  after- 
Avard  drawing   up  his  cnnnon.     Here  Gen.  Arnold 


220 


UUEJIEC. 


afterward  took  up  liis  troops,  in  1755.  'i'herc  is  a  re* 
markable  rock  projecting  trom  the  bank,  at  the  head 
of  the  cove,  a  little  to  the  right  of  which  is  seen  a 
road  runnii^  up  the  hill,  at  the  place  where  the  troops 
went  up,  when  there  was  nothing  but  a  footpath. 
The  spot  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  west  of  a  lai^e 
yellow  house  above  tne  bank. 

Cape  Diamond  is  the  abrupt  bluff  in  which  termi- 
nates the  high  land  on  the  north,  and  under  the  oppo* 
site  side  of  which  Quebec  is  situated.  It  is  348  feet 
high,  and  the  fortified  lines  on  its  brow  belong  to  the 
city  walls,  and  the  citadel,  which  is  included  by  them. 
The  telegraph  is  raised  on  the  Cavaliers'  Battery,  and 
the  round  buildings  on  the  ridge  are  Martello  towers, 
which  serve  as  advanced  works  to  the  fortress.  The 
opposite  point  is  Point  Levi ;  and  the  nfiountains  of 
St.  Anne  and  Tourmente  appear  many  miles  down  the 
river. 

General  Montgomery  was  killed  lust  at  the  base  of 
Cape  Diamond,  in  attacking  a  blockhouse  on  the 
ehore^  in  1775. 

QUEBEC.  ; 

The  Lower  Town  of  Quebec  begins  near  this  spot, 
and  stretches  along  at  the  foot  of  the  rock,  while  the 
Upper  Town  soon  begins  to  open  to  view  above, 
though  the  principal  part  of  it  is  on  the  top  and  the 
opposite  side. 

The  harbour  requires  a  pier  for  its  protection,  on 
account  of  the  extreme  rapidity  of  the  currents  caused 
by  the  tide,  and  particularly  the  ice.  The  subject 
has  been  recommended  to  the  government. 

The  Castle  of  ^.  Louis,  or  the  Governor's  HousCi 
overhangs  the  precipice,  being  built  on  supporters ; 
and  makes  a  conspicuous  appearance,  interrupting  the 
city  wall,  which  encloses  the  Upper  Town. 

The  new  Monument  to  Wolfe  and  Montcalm  is  also 
visible  fr<WB  some  points  on  the  river.  " 


UUEHEC. 


»  a  rc' 
I  head 
»een  a 
troops 
»tpatn. 
1  large 

termi- 
t  oppo- 
18  feet 
:  to  the 
r  them, 
ry,  and 
towers, 
.  The 
tains  of 
)wn  the 

base  of 
on  the 


lis  spot, 
hile  the 
above, 
and  the 

;tion,  on 

J  caused 

subject 

HousCi 
porters ; 
►ting  the 

n  is  also 


But  the  current  is  too  swift  to  allow  much  time  for 
observation  before  arriving  at  the  wharf,  where  the 
traveller  will  find  servants  in  waiting  from  the  prin- 
cipal public  houses  in  the  city :  these  are  all  in  the 
Upper  ToTrnit  the  ascent  to  which  is  intricate  as  well 
as  steep  and  laborious,  so  that  the  stranger  will  want 
their  assistance  as  guides. 

Inns.  Union  Hotel,  Mr.  Lemoine's  Boarding  House, 
Malhiot's,  41  St.  John's-street,  La  Fontaine's,  opposite. 

A  book  called  the  "  Picture  of  Quebec"  is  recom- 
mended to  the  traveller. 

The  Lower  Town  is  crowded  and  dirty,  and  con- 
tains no  decent  public  houses.  After  three  or  four 
turns,  you  begin  to  ascend  Mountain-street,  which  is 
very  steep  and  laborious,  and  leads  to  a  ^ate  in  the 
city  wall,  which  is  very  massive,  built  in  the  old  Eu- 
ropean style,  of  solid  stone,  very  thick,  with  narrow 
passage  ways  for  carriages  and  footmen,  and  a  guard 
Ghamber  above,  with  loop-holes  for  musketeers.  On 
the  right,  after  passing  this  gate,  is  a  battery  of  heavy 
guns  ;  and  the  road  in  that  direction,  by  the  city  wafl, 
conducts  to  within  a  few  steps  of  Mr.  Lemoine  s.  On 
the  contrary,  to  go  to  the  other  houses  mentioned,  it  is 
necessary  to  follow  the  street  which  opens  a  little  to 
the  left,  and  leads  into  the  midst  of  the  city. 

A  walk  to  the  Esplanade,  in  the  highest  part  of  the 
city,  by  the  wall,  is  very  delightful  at  mornmg  or  eve- 
ning, as  it  commands  a  nne  view  ;  but  Cape  Diamond 
the  finest  of  all. 

It  is  recommended  to  the  stranger  to  seize  the  first 
pleasant  days  to  make  excursions  to  the  Falls  of  Mont- 
morency, the  village  of  Lorette,  &c.  which  will  be 
more  particularly  spoken  of  hereafter ;  and  it  will  be 
found  much  better,  on  several  accounts,  to  set  out  as 
early  in  the  morning  as  possible. 

The  walls  of  Quebec  enclose  the  upper  part  of  the 
hill,  and  a  little  of  its  declivity  on  the  iHU'th  side  ;  but 
the  space  is  so  small  that  the  buildiivgs  are  extremely 
rrowdnd  together,  and  the  streets  are  as  closely  built 


2i^2 


UVLULC. 


as  in  the  lai^est  cities.  Very  few  of  the  private 
bouses  present  any  thing  remarkable,  but  there  are 
many  public  buildings  worthy  of  particular  attention. 
Population,  in  1825,  about  22,000.  A  traveller,  in 
1828,  arrived  here  from  N.  York  (684  miles)  in  75 
hours,  by  regular  route. 

The  French  Parish  Church  stands  on  one  side  of  the 
public  square,  facing  the  barracks,  where  is  also  the 
seminary.  The  church  contains  little  that  is  re- 
markable, the  who  e  interior  appearing  rather  ordi- 
nary, and  the  pictures  having  little  to  boast  of:  the 
principal  of  them  are  a  Holy  Family,  an  Ascension, 
Crucifixion,  Descent  of  Tongues,  and  Last  Supper. 

The  College^  which  stands  a  little  to  the  right  in 
coming  out  of  the  church,  is  a  large  stone  building  in 
which  a  considerable  number  of  youth  are  educated 
by  priests,  and  may  be  distinguished  in  the  city  by 
wearing  the  long  black  gown,  sash,  and  cornered  cap, 
common  to  such  institutions  in  Catholic  countries. 

The  Chapel  of  the  Seminary f  which  stands  a  little 
left  from  the  principal  gate,  contains  the  best  collec- 
tion of  pictures,  it  is  said,  in  all  Canada  :  beginni  ^^ 
on  the  right-hand  near  the  door,  is  a  picture  of  the 
Virgin  Mary  attended  by  angels,  &lc.  ;  in  the  first 
chapel  on  that  side  is  a  picture  of  the  Crucifixion,  over 
the  altar  ;  on  the  right,  the  Baptism  of  the  Ethiopian, 
JohnVBaptism,  St.  John;  on  the  left,  a  portrait,  St. 
Peter  receiving  the  keys,  infant  Saviour,  Devotees, 
&c.  on  the  church  wall,  next  is  a  good  picture  un- 
known, then  the  Ascension,  and  Interment  of  the  Sa- 
viour ;  and  over  the  high  altar,  a  Holy  Family,  and 
Dove  descending  ;  what  appears  to  be  some  priest's 
dream  ;  on  the  left  side,  is  the  Descent  of  Tongues, 
and  an  Angel  visiting  a  saint  in  prison,  good  ;  over 
the  altar  in  the  remaining  chapel,  is  the  Baptism  in 
the  Wilderness,  with  a  number  of  poor  pictures  ;  and 
in  the  church  are  an  Evangelist,  Wise  Men  presenting 
gifts,  &c. 

In  two  ^ilt  boxe?.  one  on  each  side  of  the  hig^h  alt^r, 


CASTLL   01-    ST.    LOUIS. 


•223 


aie  two  skulls,  with  several  human  bonus,  placc(i 
against  red  silk,  which  are  regarded  with  supersti" 
tious  reverence,  as  holy  and  perhaps  miraculous  relics ; 
a  lamp  is  kept  constantly  burning  under  that  on  the 
left-hand. 

The  Barracks  are  in  a  large  stone  building  opposite 
the  church,  which  was  formerly  the  Jesuits  College  : 
it  is  three  and  four  stories  high,  forming  an  angle  nke 
an  L,  each  side  of  which  is  about  200  feet  long. 
Here  are  quartered  the  tnwps  which  garrison  city  ; 
they  have  heretofore  consisted  of  two  regiments  of 
infantry,  two  companies  of  artillery,  and  one  of  sap- 
pers and  miners.  The  Exchange,  a  new  edifice,  will 
also  contain  a  Reading  Room. 

Convents.  There  are  two  convents  in  Quebec  ;  one 
of  them  has  about  40  Ursulines,  who  have  a  lai^e 
convent  and  church  near  the  prison,  in  the  west  part 
of  the  city,  and  keep  a  large  school  for  girls.  The 
other  convent  is  lower  down,  and  contains  an  hospital 
for  diseases  of  the  lighter  kinds ;  while  the  most  se- 
rious and  severe  are  treated  at  the  nunnery  near  the 
St.  Charles's  River,  ,  -out  1|  miles  above  the  town. 
These  institutions,  how*,  ver,  are  not  now  open  to  vi- 
vsiters  a-  they  formerly  were;  at  least  it  is  generally 
impossible  to  gain  access  to  them. 

The  Hotel  Dieu  is  an  hospital,  under  the  care  of 
Nuns  ;  and  the  Emigration  Hospital  affords  relief  to 
sick  strangers. 

The  Arsenal  is  near  the  palace  gate,  and  contains 
about  100,000  stand  of  arms,  arranged  with  great  re- 
gularity. 

The  Castle  of  St.  Louis  is  a  large  building,  but  makes 
a  less  impc>si2.  appearance  than  when  seen  from  the 
water.  Ti.^  -reet  beyond  commands  a  fine  view  • 
and  there  ar  :  -.-/eral  beautiful  terraced  gardens  formed 
on  the  steep  side  of  the  rock,  almost  overhanging  the 
buildings  in  the  lower  towi}. 

The  Ibrtifications  of  the  city  on  the  land  side  are 
strong,  and  worthy  of  particuhr  attention;  as  before 


■iu 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14S80 

(716)  872-4503 


(<? 


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UhiuiiEC. 


reinarked,  they  may  be  examined  with  inteie;»t  by 
taking;  a  walk  in  that  direction,  in  the  morning  or 
evenms^. 

St.  Louisas  Gate  is  the  highest  city  gate,  and  the 
street  of  the  same  name  conducts  to  it ;  thi^s  leads  to 
^e  famous  Plains  of  Abraham.  The  monuments  to 
Wolfe  and  Montcalm  will  be  erected  in  the  Upper 
Garden. 

Tlie  Esplanade  Battery  lies  betwet  St.  Louis  and 
St.  John's  gates,  and  contains  12  cannon  an(i  4  mor- 
tars, with  magazines  built  where  they  could  not  be 
injured  by  an  enemy's  shot.  The  ground  slopes  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  expose  a  large  extent  of  countiy 
to  view :  the  fine  fertile  plain  beyond  St.  Charles^ 
River,  the  beautiful  ridge  of  lands  beyond,  with  the 
villages  of  Lorette,  Chaneboui^  and  others ;  the  St. 
Lawrence  on  the  right,  with  Point  Levi,  the  Isle  of 
Orleans,  and  the  fine  ranges  of  distant  mountains.  The 
mouth  of  the  Montmorency  can  easily  be  discerned, 
on  the  lefl  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  about  9  miles 
from  the  city ;  that  is  the  spot  where  the  falls  are  to 
be  seen,  and  the  battle  ground  where  Gen.  Wolfe 
made  an  unsuccessful  attack  on  the  French  Gen.  Dies- 
kau,  before  the  capture  of  the  city. 

Mounting  to  the  parapet  near  the  gate  of  St.  Louis, 
the  plan  of  the  deiences  may  be  in  part  discerned, 
even  by  an  unpractised  eye  ;  and  bv  aescending  and 
passing  througn  the  gate,  the  strength  of  the  place  will 
be  better  understood.  The  walls  of  the  city,  the 
bastions,  and  other  works,  are  from  20  to  30  jeet  in 
height,  and  formed  of  stone.  The  path  is  made  to 
turn  several  abrupt  angles,  in  order  to  expose  the  ap- 
proach to  raking  fires.  In  coming  towards  the  gate 
itom  the  country,  at  the  first*  an^le,  the  stranger  is 
brought  to  face  8  cannon,  placed  m  two  rows,  at  tiie 
second  angle  2,  and  at  the  third  '^ ;  at  the  fourth  he 
sees  3  on  the  right  and  3  on  the  left  ^  and  at  the  fifth 
finds  himself  in  front  of  the  gate,  which  has  a  gun  on 
its  top.    The  gate  is  of  very  heavy  and  durable  ma- 


II 


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iilU   CITAUEL. 


225 


suniy,  and  the  passage  through  it  is  a  dark  arched  way, 
about  55  feet  lons^ ;  it  is  closed  by  two  heavy  doors> 
with  wickets  so  placed  as  not  to  face  each  other. 

Near  the  Hospital  is  part  of  the  old  French  wall, 
about  50  feet  high,  whicn  contains  gentlemen's  gar- 
dens.      ■  -v 


'fiitJpM   4    M''' 


The  Citadei;, 


■^f'fi,ii-M 


■\ 


on  Cape  Diamond,  is  designed  for  a  place  of  impreg- 
nable strength.  It  has  been  gradually  progressing  tor 
a  number  of  years,  and  is  not  expected  to  be  soon 
completed.  Admission  may  be  usually  obtained  by 
application  to  the  proper  officers,  and  necessary  in- 
formation may  be  gained  at  the  hotels.  The  British 
government  intended  to  devote  5000/.  per  annum  on 
these  works ;  but  as  the  money  is  sometimes  delayed, 
they  are  occasionally  exposed  to  some  interruptions. 
In  1827  about  78,000/.  were  still  thought  necessary  to 
render  the  citadel  defensible. 

Most  of  the  works  are  new,  though  some  parts 
of  the  old  have  been  made  to  serve.  They  include 
five  or  six  acres,  on  the  very  summit  of  Cape  Diamond, 
and  extend .  to  the  verge  of  the  precipice,  348  feet 
above  the  St.  Lawrence.  There  are  to  be  four  bas- 
tions and  one  demi-bastion,  a  ravelin,  in  advance  of  the 
western  bastion,  and  other  out-works.  The  walls  are 
about  40  feet  high,  and  built  perpendicularly,  of  fine 
hewn  stone  ;  the  ditch  being  blasted  out  of  the  solid 
rock,  and  about  50  feet  wide.  After  making  two  an- 
gles on  the  west  of  the  gate,  the  new  walls  join  the 

old.   ii'i  '/l^fLU.  ,•*':>    -■'^'  h,t  iiu  ;>.  ;--;>^.'  '■''ii*   -n  '•^'  ^;  A^rjIJ-^^^r 

Th^  Casemates,     Entering  the  gates  and  passing 

behind  the  wall,  a  continued  line  of  large  rooms  is 

discovered   following  the  wall,   built  of  substantial 

brick  work,  and  arched  over  head  with  such  strength 

as  to  be  bomb-proof.    These  rooms,  which  are  known 

by  the  technical  name  of  Casemates,  are  about  50 

feet  long,  20  wide,  and  16  or  18  high,  each  to  be 

U 


mm 


■IL 


226 


UUEUEC. 


lighted  by  a  door  and  two  small  windows,  looking  in* 
ward,  and  pierced  at  the  other  side,  with  five  loop 
holes  each,  for  musketry.  These  loop  holes  are  on 
the  new  plan,  narrow  inside,  and  opening  with  steps 
faced  with  iron,  to  prevent  musket  snot  from  glancing 
in.  There  are  to  be  about  40  casemates  :  these  are  all 
towards  the  land  side,  the  natural  defence  of  the  pre- 
cipice over  the  water  being  sufficiently  strong  to  pre- 
vent the  attempts  of  an  enemy  in  that  direction.  The 
casemates  will  communicate  with  each  other  by  fold- 
ing doors,  which  may  be  thrown  open  the  whole 
length  of  the  bomb-proofs,  and  will  then  furnish  space 
for  the  whole  garrison  (from  3000  to  6000  men)  to 
parade  at  once. 

The  Subterranean  Passage  leads  frdm  a  little  stair- 
case in  the  bastion  next  east  of  the  gate,  under  the 
ditch,  to  a  small  out-work  with  two  or  tnree  casemated 
rooms.  The  stairs  are  so  narrow  as  to  admit  only  one 
person  at  a  time,  and  are  constructed  in  a  spiral  form, 
and  in  the  neatest  manner.  The  passage,  which  is 
about  130  feet  lon^,  has  also  two  branches  where 
guards  might  be  placed  to  prevent  intrusion.  The 
cooking  rooms,  for  part  of  the  garrison,  are  near  the 
second  bastion  ;  ana  over  the  whole  are  to  be  mounted 
larere  cannon. 

Brock's  Battery,  a  work  of  wood  and  earth,  raised 
during  the  late  war  with  the  United  States,  is  to  be 
partly  retained  and  converted  into  a  Cavaliers'  Bat- 
tery. This,  as  well  as  the  magazines,  barracks,  offi- 
cers* quarters,  &c.  is  within  the  works ;  and  at  the 
corner  next  the  river  and  town,  is  the  old  Cavaliers- 
Battery,  a  very  heavy  stone  building,  originally  erected 
for  the  palace  of  the  French  governors  of  Qpebec  : 
below  it,  at  the  water's  edge,  Gen.  Montgomery  was 
killed.  It  has  dark  vaults,  the  walls  are  six  feet  thick, 
near  the  ground,  and  from  the  Telegraph  on  the  top  is 
one  of  the  finest  views  that  can  be  imagined:  the 
btoad  surface  of  the  St.  Lawrence  Jies  below,  and 
«tiietc!ies  off  far  to  the  right  and  left ;  the  whole  city 


TAPE    DIAMO>D. 


007 


ot  Qjiiebec  is  crowded  together  almost  beneath  you, 
while  Point  Levi,  with  its  white  buildings,  is  seen  op- 
posite, with  a  long  stretch  of  lofty  shores.  Turning 
the  eye  in  the  opposite  direction,  the  beautiful  ridge 
of  land,  which  begins  many  miles  down  the  river  on 
the  northern  side,  and  rise<  with  a  gentle  swell  from 
the  shore,  covered  with  the  richest  and  most  varied 
display  of  cultivation,  offers  a  most  delightful  view 
over  an  extensive  and  fertile  region,  beautiful  in  form, 
divided  into  innumerable  portions,  cultivated  by  a 
dense  and  industrious  population,  and  scattered  with 
their  clustered  dwellings.  On  the  left  appears,  among 
other  villages,  that  of  Lorette,  with  the  Montreal  road 
for  nine  miles  almost  I'ned  with  houses ;  and  on  the 
right  that  of  Beaufort,  occupying  the  ridge  of  the  high 
ground,  while  a  little  beyond  it  is  the  chasm  into 
which  the  River  Montmorency  plunges,  with  its  fa- 
mous cataract,  just  before  it  joins  the  St.  Lawrence. 
All  the  horizon  in  that  direction,  and  indeed  from  the 
west  to  the  north,  and  quite  to  the  east,  is  broken  by 
ranges  of  fine  mountains,  some  of  them  near  and  bold ; 
anain other  places,  between  them,  distant  blue  ridges 
are  disclosed,  three,  four,  or  five  in  succession.  Tso- 
nonthuan  Mountain,  which  has  two  summits  and  is 
2000  feet  high  in  the  north-west,  is  the  southern  ex- 
treme of  the  granite  range  reaching  from  the  Labrador 
coast  to  Lake  Superior.  In  the  south  and  south-west, 
where  an  aperture  is  left,  is  a  distant  and  lower  range, 
scattered  with  cottages.  It  may,  perhaps,  not  be  ha- 
zarding too  much  to  say,  that  no  scene  in  Canada,  or 
the  United  States,  can  boast  of  a  combination  of  ob- 
jects comparable  in  variety  and  magnificence  to  those 
here  presented  to  view. 

Cape  Diamond  derives  its  name  from  the  beautiful 
little  ror.k -crystals,  which  are  found  in  veins  of  white 
crystalized  limestone,  disseminated  in  the  black  lime- 
stone blasted  out  tor  the  works.  The  quartz  stones 
!ised  in  the  walls  are  very  fine,  and  are  brought  from 
three  miles  above  the  city.    Of  those  prepared  for 


S28 


UUEJBEC. 


,.>L 


corner  stones  ol'  a  bastion,  near  the  old  governor  s 
house,  are  homogeneous  masses  of  granular  quartz, 
weighing  Ij  or  2  tons,  or  even  more.  Some  of  the 
crystals  are  perfect  and  brilliant,  though  small. 

There  is  a  long  staircase  of  many  steps,  leading 
from  this  elevated  position  down  to  tne  Lower  Town 
by  which  it  was  originally  intended  to  draw  up  heavy 
articles.  .      -       ,  ^.       »,         - 


The  Plains  of  Abraham. 

i 

r 

This  interesting  tract  of  ground,  the  field  where 
Gen.  Wolfe  succeeded,  by  a  bold  and  decisive  blow, 
in  capturing  the  city  of  Qjuebec  in  1759,  lies  at  only 
about  the  distance  of  a  mile,  and  should  not  be  ne- 
glected. Indeed  it  would  be  found  ampl^  to  repay 
the  trouble,  to  make  a  much  longer  excursion  in  that 
direction,  as  the  road  is  fine  and  the  country  inte* 
resting.*  ■•  >  ''  ;       •[    ^J^'^-'^'  •  ->  ■■  ' 

*  After  tlic  battle  of  Montmorency,  while  the  English  fleet  lay  :ip  thu 
river,  at  one  o'clock  in  the  night  of  September  12th,  1759,  Gen,  Wolfo 
quietly  transported  liis  troops  from  the  fleet  into  the  boats,  and  cautiously 
passed  down  the  river.  lie  intended  to  land  two  or  three  miles  abovo 
Cape  Diamond,  and  get  possession  of  the  Heights  of  Abraham  :  but  was 
drifted  down  so  rapidly  that  he  passed  the  place  without  discovering  it, 
and  then  resolved  to  attempt  a  landing  at  VSTolfe's  Cove,  just  above  the 
city.  The  shore  is  bold,  and  the  rocks  so  high  and  steep,  that  only  a  few 
sentinels  were  posted  alonp;  the  precipices  and  the  margin.  This  despe- 
rate enterprise,  however,  did  not  discourage  the  leader  or  his  troops;  but 
un  hour  before  daybreak  they  had  eflected  their  landing,  and  commenced 
the  arduous  ascent  by  a  narrow,  broken  path,  at  the  top  of  which  was 
station<;d  a  captain's  guard.  As  fast  as  the  English  reached  the  summit 
they  formed  on  the  level  plain. 

At  ten  o'clock  Montcalm  arrived  from  above,  and  a  battle  was  fought, 
which  decided  the  fate  of  Canada.  Montcalm  stationed  1500  sharp 
shooterK  in  front  but  the  British  coolly  stood  their  ground  till  the  French 
were  within  40  yards,  wiien  they  opened  their  Are,  and  soon  afterward 
termiiittird  iii«  cuKUKt^'tieHi  with  tl.oir  haynnets.  The  place  where  the 
greatest  carnage  was  made,  is  near  the  river's  bank,  wnero  ths  Engiinh 
left  was  closely  engaged  with  the  French  right.  The  action  lasted  two 
hours,  and  in  it  both  chiefs  received  their  mortal  wounds.  Gen.  Wolfe 
was  shot  In  two  or  three  places.  When  hardly  any  signs  of  life  remained, 
news  was  Itrought  that  the  dayh^d  declared  for  the  British;  "Th?n,*« 
98i(i  he,  "I  ^19  coritejit.'? 


WOLl  i;  8    CON  i\ 


'^tJ 


Passing  out  at  St.  Louis's  Ciatc,  you  observe  a 
number  ot*  handsome  dwellings  and  gardens,  until 
you  get  some  distance  beyond  the  towers,  when 
you  turn  into  the  Race  Course  on  the  left  side  ot" 
the  road.  The  foundation  of  a  monument  to  Wolfe 
and  Montcalm  was  laid  in  the  city  in  1827.  The  spot 
where  Gen.  Wolfe  fell  is  near  the  corner  of  the  fenced 
field,  ofi*  towards  the  river.  A  little  east  of  the  place, 
is  the  remnant  of  a  breastwork,  with  several  angles, 
marked  out  by  bushes,  and  comn^anding  a  fine  view. 
The  British  line  was  first  formed  across  the  plain,  and 
ran  near  the  house  by  the  road,  and  the  battle  was 
fought  pi'incipaliy  on  that  ground. 

The  Plains  ot  Abraham  are  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  in  breadth,  extending  a  great  distance  towards 
the  west,  with  a  gentle  slope  on  each  side,  and  so 
smooth  as  to  oflfer  an  admirable  field  for  the  manoeu- 
vring and  displa}^  of  troops.  From  the  old  breast- 
work, not  only  this  ground  is  overlooked,  but  the  ship- 
ping in  Wolfe's  Cove,  the  opposite  shore,  the  river  to 
the  next  turn,  &c.  The  spot  appears,  indeed,  infe- 
rior in  elevation  only  to  Cape  Diamond  and  the  middle 


tower. 


Wolfe's  Cove 


I i"'.i   n  ■ 


is  about  a  mile  further  west,  or  half  a  mile  beyond 
the  large  house  seen  near  the  river's  bank.  A  branch 
of  the  road  leads  off  to  it  from  the  left,  and  descends 
to  the  shore  by  a  passage  cut  out  long  since  the  time 
of  Gen.  Wolfe,  as  the  cove  is  now  a  great  deposite  for 
lumber. 

The  course  which  he  followed  up  the  bank,  lay 
along  the  channel  of  a  little  brook,  which  leads  off  to 
the  right,  while  the  road  goes  straight  up  the  bank.   . 


TT»> 


2:X> 


QVEUCi  . 


. 


^iSGE  OF  Quebec  in  1776. 

The  scenes  we  have  thus  briefly  recalled  are  not 
the  only  ones  of  a  military  character  of  which  this 
commanding  and  delightful  plain  has  been  the  theatre. 

In  1776,  soon  after  the  commencement  of  the  Revo- 
lution, the  Continental  Congress  prepared  an  expedi- 
tion against  Canada.  It  consisted  of  two  divisions : 
one  under  Gen.  Mont8:omery  came  down  Lake  Cham- 
plain  and  took  St.  John's,  Chambly,  Sorel,  Three 
Rivers,  and  then  proceeded  down  the  St.  Lawrence  to 
this  place.  The  other,  under  Gen.  Arnold,  took  the 
route  through  the  wilderness  of  Maine  for  Q,"jebec. 

Arnold  had  10  companies  of  infantry,  besides  3  of 
riflemen,  and  one  of  artillery,  with  a  few  volunteers. 
Thev  proceeded  up  the  Kennebeck,  but  sufllered  so 
mucn  irom  fatigue  and  scarcity  that  many  fell  sick, 
and  one  division  returned.  The  remainder,  however, 
reached  Point  Levi  on  the  9th  of  November,  and 
alarmed  the  city.  The  batteaux  had  been  removed, 
and  the  strong  wind  detained  them  from  crossing,  after 
they  had  been  supplied  by  the  Canadians.  The  Eng- 
lish frigate  Lizard  and  several  other  v<  <5sels  were  also 
in  the  river.  He  at  length,  however,  effected  a  land- 
ing a  little  above  Wolfe's  Cove,  and  marching  down 
the  shore  climbed  up  the  rocks  at  that  place,  and  sur- 
rounded the  city  without  efl*ect.  He  then  retired  '40 
miles  to  Pointe  aux  Trembles,  and  waited  for  Gen. 
Montgomery,  who  arrived,  after  great  trials,  Dec.  1st, 
with  about  300  men. 

The  two  generals  afterward  marched  to  Quebec, 
and  planting  their  mortars  on  the  snow  and  ice,  fired 
into  the  town  with  little  efiect.  The  small  pox  broke 
out,  and  the  cold  was  severe  ;  but  the  town  was  at- 
tacked at  four  points  at  once,  in  a  snow  storm,  without 
success.  Montgomery  was  killed,  on  the  shore,  about 
100  yards  from  the  foot  of  the  railway,  under  Cape 


\\i 


HOAl)    TO   DEAUFOHT. 


281 


Diamond.    One  detachment  was  taken,  and  Arnold 
retired  three  miles  and  intrenched  himself.        ■;.'  '( 


The  Falls  of  Montmorency. 


'  •»! 


(i'» 


Hire  a  coach,  a  gig,  a  caleche  or  a  saddle  horse,  and 
set  out,  if  possible,  early  in  the  morning.  In  a  caleche, 
you  will  have  the  advantage  of  a  guide  in  your  driver. 
rass  through  the  Palace  gate  and  a  village  divided 
from  Quebec  only  by  the  wall,  cross  the  bridge  over 
St.  Charles's  river,  which  forms  a  regular  serpentine, 
and  enter  the  beautiful  cultivated  plain  beyond.  A 
Convent  and  hospital  are  seen  about  a  mile  on  the 
left,  and  a  handsome  succession  of  fields  is  observed 
on  both  sides,  divided  by  low  palings.  At  the  dis- 
tance of  a  mile  and  a  half  the  road  passes  several 
country  houses.  *  >n  'vio;; 

Riding  down  the  coast,  at  a  considerable  elevation 
from  the  river,  many  fine  views  are  presented  of  the 
opposite  banks,  the  isle  of  Orleans,  the  mountains  of 
St.  Anne  and  Tourmente  down  the  river.  The  dwel- 
lings are  small,  and  the  inhabitants  poor  and  numer  <  us. 
The  channel  south  of  the  isle  of  Orleans  is  the  only 
one  used  by  ships  for  some  years  past,  but  the  northern 
has  been  surveyed  recently.  The  latter  is  that  by 
which  Admiral  Saguenay's  deetcame  up  with  Wolfe  s 
army. 

Beaufort  is  a  village  principally  composed  of  such 
buildings,  stretching  for  a  great  distance  along  the 
road.  Just  before  entering  it,  some  large  mills  are 
seen  on  the  right,  standing  on  a  stream  which  crosses 
the  path,  and  beyond  there  is  a  natural  pavement 
formed  of  the  horizontal  rock.  There  is  a  small 
church  here,  with  three  steeples,  prettily  situated  on 
the  river's  bank,  with  a  patch  of  grass  and  trees 
around  it ;  but  it  contains  nothing  worthy  of  particular 
attention. 

On  approaching  the  Montmorency,  the  road  turns  to 


iiJa 


Uli:U£C. 


the  left)  and  then  to  the  right,  on  an  extensive,  smooth, 
and  gradual  ascent,  part  of  which  was  the  field  of  a 
bloo(fy  slaughter,  suffered  by  a  division  of  Gen.  Wolfe's 
army,  in  1759,  a  short  timn  previous  to  his  battle  on  the 
Heights  of  Abraham.  The  position  of  the  armies 
will  be  more  easily  understooa  on  reaching  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  river :  it  is  therefore  sufficient  to  re- 
mark here,  that  the  French  lines  were  bounded  by 
the  nearer  bank,  as  the  remains  of  their  intrenchments 
on  the  left  still  testify ;  and  that  the  British  came  up 
from  the  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence  on  the  right,  to 
attack  two  of  their  nearest  batteries,  before  the  second 
of  which  they  were  cut  to  pieces. 

Dismounting  in  a  little  wood  and  fastening  the 
horses,  you  may  proceed  along  the  precipitous  bank 
of  the  Montmorency,  by  a  footpath*  to  see  the  falls 
from  this  side.  As  it  is  a  difficulj^/lvay,  and  the  view 
more  fine  and  unobstructed  from  the  opposite  side,  it 
is  hardly  worth  the  trouble,  unless  you  have  plenty  of 
time.  lou  have  to  clamber  rocks,  pass  dpwn  a  lon^* 
ladder,  and  stand  on  the  verge  of  an  abyss  into  which 
the  cataract  dashes.  Water  is  drawn  off  here  in  a 
wooden  race,  for  the  supply  of  Mr.  Patterson's  great 
saw-mills,  which  are  worthy  of  being  visited. 

It  is  better,  therefore,  to  follow  the  road  on  foot,  to 
cross  the  bridge  f  where  you  pay  a  sows),  and  enter- 
ing the  fields  on  tne  right,  follow  down  the  course  ot' 
the  river.  There  are  several  fine  points  of  view, 
from  which  the  falls  appear  to  great  advantage  ;  but 
on  account  of  the  height  and  steepness  of  the  banks, 
it  is  necessary  to  descend  towards  the  St.  Lawrence, 
and  then  return  by  the  margin,  to  obtain  a  sight  o( 
them  from  below.  ',, 

On  the  fine  elevated  point  formed  by  the  junction 
of  the  two  rivers,  and  commanding  an  uncj^^tructed 
view  upon  the  St.  Lawrence  for  many  miles  up  and 
down,  with  several  lofty  mountains  below,  the  isle  of 
Orleans  opposite,  Qjuebec  above,  and  the  cataract  close 
at  hand,  the  British  here  took  a  strong  position  in  July. 


FALLS   OF   MOKTMORENCV. 


2:iii 


1759 ;  and  from  this  place  made  a  bold,  but  unsuc- 
cessful attempt  against  their  enemies  on  the  opposite 
side.  The  remains  of  their  intrenchments  are  plainly 
visible  under  our  feet.  The  natural  and  artificial 
strength  of  the  city  combined,  was  enough,  even  in 
those  days,  to  discourage  any  attempt  against  it  from 
the  water ;  and  in  order  to  prevent  an  approach  by 
land,  the  French  occupied  two  strong  positions  at  a 
distance  above  and  below  it :  the  former  at  Silleiy 
River,  the  other  at  the  Montmorency.  Wolfe  here 
made  a  first,  but  unsuccessful  attempt ;  and  afterward, 
b3r  a  still  more  desperate  blow,  accomplished  bis 
wishes  at  the  plains  of  Abraham.  For  an  account  of 
the  battle  of  Montmorency,  we  refer  to  the  note.* 
The  best  view  of  the  cataract  is  to  be  enjoyed  from 
the  spur  of  the  rock,  which  projects  from  the  eastern 
shore  :  but  the  spray,  which  keeps  the  surface  covered 
with  a  coat  of  green,  will  drench  the  clothes  in  a  few 
minutes. 
The  height  of  the  fall  ij^  $aid  to  be  ^40,feQt ;  and 

*  Battlk  0?  Montmorency.         ,     >   ■      >•     .  » 

When  Gen.  Wolfe  came  to  operate  against  Quebec  in  June,  1750,  he 
posted  his  army  on  tlie  Island  of  Orleans  while  the  fleet  blockaded:  the 
port.  At  the  end  of  that  month  General  Monckton  was  sent  over  to 
Foint  Levi,  and  established  himself  there^  whence  he  was  able  to  fire 
upon  the  city.  Above  the  river  Montmorency,  the  It^nJing  was  pro- 
tected by  the  Marquis  de  Montcalm.  Gen.  WoiCe  laiuied  hia  troops  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Montmorency  during  the  night  of  July  31st,  and  erected 
a  battery  on  the  precipice  north-east  of  the  fulls,  tlie  remains  of  which 
are  to  be  seen.  Tiie  French  were  intreiKhed  along  the  oppoflite  bonk ; 
and  on  the  31st  of  July,  Gen.  Wolfe  sent  his  troops  to  ford  the  Mont- 
morency below  the  falls,  to  storm  their  works.  Some  of  Gen.  Monckton'a 
force  from  Point  Levi  in  crossing  with  boats  got  aground,  and  difAculty 
ensued ;  but  the  landing  was  nmde  in  the  afteruoon  on  the  beach  to  the 
right  of  the  saw -mills.  They  came  however  too  late :  for  the  thirteen 
grenadier  companies,  with 20U  Americans,  who hadlanded  before,  refused 
to  wait  or  to  form,  as  had  been  intended,  in  four  columns,  but  inarched 
tumultuously  round  the  rock,  and  rushed  Up  hill  in  a  mass  towards  the 
French  works,  at  some  distance  back  from  the  old  redoubt  on  the  point, 
which  had  been  deserted.  A  wann  Are  however  was  directed  against 
them,  which  cut  down  about  500  men,  and  they  were  obliged  to  retreat 
to  the  redoubt,  whence  they  were  ordered  back  to  the  beach  to  form, 
The  enterprise  was  then  interrupted  hv  a  severe  storm,  and  finally 
5?jnnf?ono(i. 


o-^i 


^34 


UtEBEO. 


f 


the  banks  on  both  sides  below  form  a  precipitous  and 
frightful  precipice,  of  rather  a  curving  form,  of  bare, 
sharp,  slaty  rock,  whose  strata  incline  from  north  to 
south,  and  the  perpendicular  veins  run  nearly  N.  W. 
and  S.  E.  At  low  water  the  Montmorency  may  be 
forded,  with  some  caution,  where  it  was  passed  by  the 
Britigh  troops  :  but  the  tide  rises  fast  and  high.* 

The  Saw-Mills f  built  by  Mr.  Patterson,  are  situated 
behind  the  western  shore  of  the  Montmorency.  They 
are  all  contained  in  one  large  building,  where  the  wa- 
ter enters  at  the  third  story  in  three  channels,  moving 
six  gates  in  the  second  story,  and  five  in  the  first. 
These  eates  are  collections  of'^saws,  containing  6  or  8 
each,  wnich  cut  up  whole  logs  into  planks  or  boards 
at  once.  The  rafts  of  timber  are  stopped  above  the 
mill,  taken  apart,  and  thus  floated  down  by  a  little 
canal,  whence  they  are  drawn  up  by  machinery, 
several  logs  being  bound  together  by  a  chain,  and  laid 
before  the  saws.  Vast  quantities  of  sawn  lumber  are 
generally  to  be  seen  here  on  the  wharves,  readj  for 
shipping.  The  mill  contains  80  single  saws,  besides  5 
circular  ones,  which  perform  their  work  with  great 
rapidity. 

The  Baron  Renfrew,  an  immense  timber  ship,  was 
launched  from  the  island  of  Orleans  in  1825.  It  was 
a  built  vessel,  although  of  a  rude  construction.  It  was 
305  feet  in  length,  60  feet  beam,  depth  of  hold  35  feet, 
from  the  keel  to  the  taffrail  50,  bowsprit  60  feet,  main- 
mast above  deck,  75  ;  whole,  100 ;  main  yard  72. 
She  was  14  feet  between  decks  ;  the  tiller  was  28  feet 
lon^ ;  chain  cable  120  fathonos  2h  inch  iron ;  the  anchor;; 
weighed  75  and  90  cwt.,  and  her  measurement  was 
5,282  tons.  She  was  loaded  with  timber  in  bulk,  and 
carried  above  6000  tons  of  it ;  but  was  lost  on  the 
coast  of  France.  , 

*  A  survey  was  iriade,  in  1829,  of  the  country  in  the  rear  of  the  existing 
settlements  ana  grants  between  Quebec  and  the  St.  IVfaiirice :  the  first 
great  rocky  mountainous  barrier  is  at  a  distance  of  aboiit  ftvr-and-twcnty 
leagues  from  the  St.  Lawrence.    \n  this  space  ar^ffiund  three  grrrir 

•\(-  V 1  * 

-5^    ^ 


m 


KOiTE    i'JlUJI   Ul^LliLC    TO   UUSION. 


rso 


The  Village  op  Lorette      ' 

may  be  taken  in  the  way  returning  from  Montmorency, 
if  tiiere  should  be  time  enough  remaining  (which  is 
barely  possible),  and  the  ride  alon^  the  high  ridge 
leading  in  that  direction,  will  be  found  delightful.' 
Lorette  is  an  Indian  village,  with  a  Catholic  cnurch, 
and  the  stranger  may  furnish  himself  with  moccasins, 
belts,  pipes,  &c. 

Route  from  Qtiebec  to  Boston.  It  is  proposed,  by  the 
!;tate  of  Maine,  to  open  a  road  from  Haliowell  up  the 
course  of  the  Kennebeck  river,  to  the  Canada  line 
near  Qjuebec.  There  is  a  communication  kept  up  to 
some  extent  between  the  two  places,  and  considerable 
numbers  of  cattle  are  driven  every  year  that  way ; 
but  for  a  great  distance  it  is  necessary  to  pass  through 
a  wilderness,  and  in  consequence  of  the  want  of 
inhabitants,  there  is  no  shelter  to  be  found  for  man  or 
beast,  for  several  days'  journeys.  The  names  and 
distances  of  the  principal  places  on  this  wild  and  un- 
frequented  route,  are  given  below.  When  the  pro- 
posed road  shall  have  been  opened,  it  will  be  found  a 
convenient  way  to  New-England,  for  those  who  do  not 
wish  lo  return  by  Montreal,  and  will  become  peooled 
and  frequently  travelled.  This  is  the  route  by  which 
<<(in.  Arnold  approached  Quebec  in  1775. 


Quebec  to  the  Chaudiere,  or 
iiivjere  du  Loup    .    .     .'    • 


60  miles. 


valleys,  tliatof  the  JacqiiesCartiur,of  the  St.  Anne,  and  of  theBatiscan 
I  i  vrvk.  Thu  settlements  of  Sionehain,  Valcarticr,  and  Fossainbault  lie 
ni  tho  flr«t  valley;  the  other  two  valleys  are  of  considerable  extent,  and 
(ontuin  a  lurgu  quantity  of  cultivable  lands  of  good  quality.  These 
>  alleys  are  depurated  from  each  other  by  rocky  highlands.  On  traversing 
the  {,'reat  barrier  at  the  head  waters  of  the  Jacques  Cariicr  river,  we 
loach  at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile  the  liead  waters  of  the  Cbicotinii 
river,  wiilch  enipties  itself  at  the  port  of  that  name.  Tliis  river  is  well 
known  to  the  Lorette  Indians,  who  represent  the  country  through  v.hich 
i'  pa?pe8  as  a'togethcr  unsusceptible  of  culture 


TM\ 


Ul  ICiiDt  . 


Moose   Kivcr 3?    97 

Forks  of  tho  Kennebeck 24  12t 

Upper  settlement  on  do 12  I'J.l 

Haflowell 67  200 

Boston 170  370 

Another  route  alotkg  the  Penobscot  is  also  to  be  sui- 
veyed  by  the  authority  of  the  state  of  Maine. 

;  ,      Land  route  from  (Quebec  to  Montreal, 

Upper  road* 

(The  pleasanter.) 

1st  post  Lorettc, 16  miles. 


2d 

3d 

4th 

5th 

6th 

7th 

0th 


Jacques  Cartier) 16 

Descham  beaux, 16 

St.  Anne, 16 

Batiscamp, n 

Champlain, 9 

Aux  Cayes, 0 

Trois  Kivieres, H 

V  Lower  Road* 


•.■'■.If. 

tstpost,  Cape  Rou^e, 9 

ad  8t.  Augustine, 0 

3d  Pointe  aux  Trembles,    .     .    .    .  8 

4th         Ecureil, 9 

5th         Cape  Sante, 9 

(Garneau's  inn,  called  ^Hhe  Three  SisterSf'^ 
is  excellent.) 
6th         Deschambcaux,  &c.   .     .     .    .     .  8  miles. 

Under  the  administration  of  Gov.  Craig,  in  Canada, 
a  road  was  opened  between  this  province  and  the  pre- 
sent territoiy  of  Maine ;  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  states 
continuing  it,  a  stage  coach  actually  ran  from  (Quebec 
to  Boston,  which  is  270  miles  distant.  It  was  afterward 
neglected ;  and  the  road  became  so  much  oversrown- 
that  it  would  require  clearing  again  to  be  iisefiil. 


ItOtJTESi   FROM   UUEll^C'. 


5^;-i7 


ROUTES  FROM  QUEBEC. 

Road  from  Quubfx'  to  Montreal. 

For  remarks  on  the  advantages  of  travellings  by  land 
on  the  St.  Lawrence)  compared  with  those  offered  by 
the  steamboats,  see  pnge  211,  recollecting:  that  the 
passug^e  in  the  latter  is  several  hours  longer  up  the 
river  than  down.  1'he  country  for  bome  miles  above 
Quebec  is  more  varied  in  its  surfuce^  than  that  below 
Montreal ;  and  caleches  and  gigs  may  be  obtained  here 
as  well  as  there.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  regular  stage 
coaches  will  soon  be  established  on  the  road.  On 
page  236  is  an  enumeration  of  the  villn^es  and  best 
mns.  The  former  are  generally  nine  miles  apart,  but 
the  distances  are  particularized. 

Steamboat.  Engage  an  early  passage  to  Montreal. 
In  1828,  the  shortest  passage  ever  known  was  made  in 
a  steamboat  to  Montreal,  m  about  23;^  hours. 

Leaving  tht^  dock,  you  pass  under  Cape  Diamond, 
nearly  at  the  foot  of  which  General  MorUgomery  was 
killed  in  1775. 

WoJfeh  Carve  is  about  a  mile  beyond.    See  page  229. 

For  the  other  places  along  the  St.  Lawrence,  see 
the  map,  and  the  notices  ol  them  in  the  route  from 
Montreal  to  Quebec. 

Rapids  of  Richelieu^  page  218. 

Three  Rivers,  page  217. 

Lake  St.  Peter,  page  216. 

William  Henry,  or  Sorel,  page  215. 

Montreal,  page  199. 

See  the  route  from  Montreal  to  Lake  Ontario  and 
Niagara. 


■P 


T3t 


BOUTE   FKOM   CANADA r 


F&OM   MOXVTREAL   TO   LaKE   ChAMPLAIN^   AND 

THE  United  States. 

Those  who  are  returning  by  this  route,  may  be  ad- 
vised to  cross  to  Longeuil  instead  of  La  Prairie,  and 
^o  to  St.  John's  by  the  way  of  Chambly.  The  distance 
IS  nearly  the  same,  the  passage  of  (he  river  is  effected . 
in  a  good  horseboat,  the  country  is  much  finer  and 
better  cultivated,  and  the  old  castle  or  tower  of 
Chambly  is  of  some  interest  for  its  history.  It  will  be 
necessary,  however,  to  make  particular  arrangements 
for  a  carriage,  and  to  take  every  precaution  to  arrive 
at  St.  John's  in  season  for  the  steamboat.  From  Mqd- 
treat  to  Longueil  3  miles,  Longueil  to  Chambly  1% 
thence  to  St.  John's  15.  ,  ., ,  . 

Chambly. 

This  is  a  small  village.  Near  the  middle  of  it 
stands  the  old  fort,  on  a  point,  surrounded  by  a  ditch. 
It  is  an  old  square  buildmg,  perhaps  180  feet  on  each 
side,  with  bastions  at  the  corners,  but  incapable  of 
withstanding  heavy  cannon.  This  fort  was  taken  by 
Majors  Brown  and  Livingston,  in  1755,  who  were  sent 
out  with  a  strong  detachment  by  Gen.  Montgomery, 
while  he  was  besieging  St.  John's.  The  garrison, 
being  very  feeble,  surrendered. 

St.  John's  :  see  pa^e  194. 

In  the  last  war  the  British  had  6000  men  hutted  here 
for  a  year  and  a  half. 

Passage  from  St.  John's  to  Whitehall. 


Four  steamboats  run  from  St.  John's  to  Whitehall. 
They  go  every  day. 
St.  John's. 
Isle  aux  Noix 10  miles. 


mmm 


PASSAGE  UP   LAKE  CHAMPLAIX. 


239 


Rouse's  Point 11  miles. 

Chazy 12 

Plattsburgb 15 

Port  Kent 8 

Burlington* 10  \ 

Charlotte,  Essex 15 

Port  Clinton 10 

Dalliba's  Works,  >  a 

Port  Henry,         S 

Chimney  Point 12 

Ticonderoga 15  ^ 

Whitehall 25 

^or  the  principal  places  on  the  lake,  see  the  Index. 

the  time  when  Gen.  St.  Clair  evacuated  Ticon- 

^a,  in  1777,  the  following  arrangements  were  made 

etreat.    The  baggage,  hospital  furniture,  sick, 

park  of  artillery,  stores,  and  provisions,  embarked 

^^Ander  Colonel  Long,  under  strong  convoy,  in  200  bat- 

fsaux  and  five  armed  galleys.    The  mam  army  went 

|b  Castleton,  with  St.  Clair  at  the  head  and  Col. 

jpancis  in  the  rear,  and  the  general  rendezvous  was  at 

.  okeonesborough  (Whitehall.)    A  house  which  took 

fire  on  Mount  Independence  attracted  the  attention  of 

the  British,  who  soon  began  the  pursuit.    Gen.  Frazer, 

with  grenadiers  and  light  troops,  with  Reidesel  behind 

him,  followed  by  land;  while  Burgoyne  cut  through 

the  boom  and  bridge,  and  sailed  up  Wood  Creek.    His 

gun>boats  and  ships  overtook  tne  American  flotilla, 

took  two  galleys,  blew  up  three,  and  the  Americans 

set  fire  to  the  rest  and  fled  on  to  Fort  Anne. 

On  leaving  Ticonderoga,  the  lake  soon  becomes 
much  narrower.  At  about  nine  miles  distance,  the 
Scotch  Farms  are  seen  on  tlie  western  shore.  They  are 
in  the  township  of  Putnam,  and  present  an  aspect  less 
wild  than  most  of  the  surrounding  scenes. 
Looking  back  on  Ticonderc^a  from  this  place, 

*  Pr«m  this  town  thpre  \9  a  finp  rond  to  Bosmn 


240 


BOVTE  FROM  CANADA. 


Mount  Defiance  appears  at  about  nine  miles  distance. 
It  descends  on  the  left  to  the  Scotch  Farms,  which 
are  princii)ally  cleared  land,  and  is  a  good  landnaark. 
Beyond  it  is  another  mountain  sloping  like  it.  Ticon- 
deroga  here  appears  to  close  up  the  passage  of  the 
lake,  with  Sword's  Point  on  the  left. 

The  Four  Channels. 

Fourteen  miles  from  Whitehall,  the  lake  suddenly 
contracts  itself  into  four  narrow  passages,  between  two 
ranges  of  mountains,  which  in  some  places  present  per- 
pendicular precijsices  ;  an(f  its  bed,  at  low  water,  ap- 
Ssars  almost  entirely  occupied  by  a  little  meadow  of 
e  brightest  green,  through  whicn  the  channels  v'^ " 
with  beautiful  serpentines.  The  sceile  is  highly 
turesque,  the  rocky  points  on  both  sides  bein| 
abrupt  as  to  seem  as  if  forcibly  parted  by  an  e^^ 
a uake,  or  a  very  swift  and  powerful  stream.  EveJ 
distant  object  is  entirely  shut  out,  and  the  batp;^  j 
sent  a  strikini?  aspect  of  wildness  and  seclusion^ 

Some  distance  beyond,  where  the  creek  enti 
small  tract  of  level  ground,  it  passes  between 
remarkable  rocks,  with  precipitous  banks  like  walls^ 
about  50  feet  high,  like  great  natural  bastions  erected 
to  guard  the  straits. 

A  succession  of  beautiful  little  serpentines  are  passed, 
with  ragged  precipices,  and  many  little  patches  of 
level  ground  on  the  margin  of  the  water ;  while  on 
the  eastern  side  the  tow  path  accompanies  the  bank. 

South  Bay 

opens  to  the  south,  and  runs  down  five  miles  between 
high  mountains.  Here  the  creek  takes  a  sudden  turn 
to  the  east,  communicating  with  the  bay  by  a  little 
channel  sometimes  scarcely  20  yards  across.  General 
Dieskau  took  this  route  with  his  army,  in  going  towards 
Fort  Edward.  inl755. 


WHITEHALL. 


i>4i 


Deer  are  sometimes  seen  here  in  passing.  On  the 
«astem  side  of  the  ba^,  on  the  mountain,  is  a  natural 
ice-house  about  four  miles  oflf. 

(A  precipice  on  the  east  is  a  good  mark  of  the  ap- 
proach to  South  Bay,  in  going  up.) 

Thi  Devifs  Pulpit  is  a  singular  cavity  in  the  face  of 
a  bare  precipice  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  creek,  at  a 
considerable  elevation,  in  the  form  of  a  wedge,  and 
so  regular  as  to  seem  a  work  of  art,  although  probably 
made  by  the  falling  of  a  mass  of  the  rock. 

Distant  mountains  open  to  the  view  in  front,  as  we 
proceed,  with  ranges  of  willows  on  the  shore. 

The  Elbow  is  a  narrow  part  of  the  creek,  with  two 
short  turns,  through  which  the  passage  requires  a  very 
exact  helm. 


'W 


East  Bay 


strikes  off  at  the  first  bend,  and  makes  up  five  miles, 
along  a  romantic  country.  A  sugar-loaf  hill  will  be 
observed  at  a  little  distance  on  the  right,  which  rises 
above  Whitehall,  and  makes  the  approach  to  that 
place  quite  picturesque. 

WHITEHALL. 

On  the  top  of  a  rock  over  the  harbour  was  formerly 
a  battery,  and  in  the  town  a  blockhouse.  Numerous 
boats  and  great  quantities  of  lumber  are  usually  seen 
here,  as  the  Champlain  or  Northern  canal  begins  at 
the  bridge,  where  are  two  locks,  with  a  sluiceway, 
and  a  rocky  channel. 

Inns. — Rock's  and  Wing's. 

The  heights  at  this  place  were  occupied  by  Bur- 
goyne's  right  wing,  V4^hile  he  was  preparing  to  march 
towards  Saratoga ;  his  centre  was  formed  by  Gen. 
Frazer;  the  Bruns wickers,  on  the  left,  rested  on  the 
river  of  Castleton ;  and  the  Hessians  were  at  the  head 
f>f  East  Bav. 


242 


ROUTE   FROM   CA2«ADA. 


fioads,^StSi^e  coaches  go  south,  on  the  arrival  of 
the  steamboat  m  two  directions :  one  on  each  side  of 
Wood  Creek  and  the  Hudson  river.  That  on  the  west 
side  is  recommended  to  those  who  are  going  directly 
on  to  Albany,  as  it  passes  along  the  route  of  the  Cham- 
plain  canal,  by  the  **  Surrender  Ground,"  and  near  the 
**  Battle  Ground  of  Bemis's  Heights."  Coaches  also 
go  to  the  Springs. 

The  survey  of  a  canal  route  from  Rutland  to  White- 
hall, N.  Y.  gives  a  descent  of  211  feet,  and  an  ascenk 
of  274 — the  distance  is  24  -  miles.  The  height  of  land 
is  west  of  Poultney  river,  7  miles  from  Whitehall. 

Road  to  Boston,  178  m. 
through  Walpole  :  iSce  " //Mica?."  %' 

To  Albany,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Hudson^ 

79  m. 

West  Granville 11  miles. 

East  Granville* 3 

Hebron 9 

Salem 8 

Cambridge    .......  16 

Pittstown 13 

Lansingburgh     ......  10 

""  Saddle  Mountain,  whose  lofty  ridge  will  be  seen  from  almost  every 
point  in  ttiis  vicinity,  is  said  to  be  4,0^  feet  above  the  ocean,  and  2,800 
feet  higher  than  the  site  ol  Williams'  College.  It  derives  its  name  from 
its  resemblance  to  a  riding  saddle.  Snow  lies  late  upon  its  top,  where 
the  climate  is  so  cold  as  to  admit  only  a  stinted  growth  to  the  spruce, 
yellow  birch,  beech,  fir,  mountain  ash,  and  other  trees  which  are  there 
to  be  found.  Vegetation  is  there  more  than  a  month  behind  the  valleys 
below.  An  excursion  to  the  summit  is  not  very  difRcult,  and  affords  fine 
views.  The  Catskill,  Watchusett,  Monudnoc,  and  Mount  Holyoke  are 
visible. 

Ji  Miner ai  Spring  ia  situated  about  1^  miles  north  of  the  College  in  Wil- 
liamstown,  and  a  tew  hundred  yards  east  of  the  Albany  road.  It  is  a 
tepid  water  and  resembles  that  of  New- Lebanon— temperature  75  Fah- 
renheit. Mr.  West's  house  affords  accommodations,  baths,  &c.  to  lodgers : 
and  the  spring  has  proved  beneficial  in  cntaneous  caseft. 


ROAD   FROM  WnilEUALL   TO   ALBAIS'V.        243 

Troy 3  (see  page  50) 

Albany 6  (see  p.  39  &  46) 

To  AiaAr^,  an  the  tpeat  side  of  the  HudsoH^  68  m. 

Fort  Anne 12 

Fort  EHward 9 

Here  a  coach  passes  to  Saratoga  Springs, 

Fort  Miller 8 

Schuylersville 6  fsee  pae^  159 J 

British  Lines 7  (see  page  136) 

Passing  Bemis^s  Heights, 

Stillwater 8 

Borough 3 

Watertbrd      .         .....    8i 

New  Mohawk  Bridge      .    .    .    1  (see  p.  54  &  129) 

The  road  accompanies  the  course  of  Wood  Creek, 
which  is  dammed  and  used  for  a  canal,  to  which  its 
narrowness  and  depth  give  it  a  strong  resemblance. 
This  creek  is  famous  in  the  history  of  the  operations 
in  this  region  during  the  Revolutionary  and  French 
wars ;  and  after  repeated  exertions  to  clear  it  of  the 
logs,  &c.,  by  which  it  was  obstructed,  it  bore  the 
troops  sent  against  Canada,  &c.,  which  often  passed  by 
this  route,  from  the  days  of  Queen  Anne.  The  scenery 
is  agreeable,  though  rough  ;  and  there  is  little  cultiva- 
tion off  the  road 

Half  a  mile  north  of  the  village  of  Fort  Anne,  Wood 
Creek  makes  an  elbow  to  a  ledge  of  rocks,  so  near 
that  there  is  but  little  space  for  the  road  between. 
Here  Col.  Sterry  was  overtaken,  in  the  retreat  from 
Ticonderoga,  in  1777,  by  Burgovne*s  troops,  and  an 
engagement  took  place,  memorials  of  which  are  occa- 
uonally  found  in  the  soil  to  this  day.  A  little  south, 
on  the  brow  of  the  hill,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
stage  house,  stood  Fort  Anne,  in  the  Revolution. 

The  old  fort  of  the  same  name,  built  many  years 
previously,  and  known  in  the  French  wars,  was  about 


244 


ROUTE    F£UH   CANADA. 


half  a  mile  south  of  the  village,  od  a  gentle  eminence 
a  little  east  of  the  road,  where  some  remains  of  the 
old  intrenchments  are  still  to  be  seen. 

The  remains  of  Burgoyne's  Road  begin  about  two 
miles  south  of  Fort  Anne,  at  the  foot  of  a  hill,  and  are 
traced  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile,  near  the  present 
road  to  a  wood.  It  was  formed  of  logs,  ana  found 
necessaiy,  to  render  the  country  passable  with  his 
cannoas  and  baggage  wagons.  The  labour  necessary 
for  its  formation,  superadded  to  that  of  clearing  Wood 
Creek  of  the  obstructions  which  Gen.  Schuyler  had 
thrown  into  it  after  the  retreat  of  the  Americans,  was 
one  great  cause  of  the  delay  of  the  British  army,  on 
this  part  of  the  road — a  delay  which  allowed  the 

f>eople  time  to  resume  their  spirits,  and  the  officers  to 
ay  plans,  obtain  resources,  and  prepare  for  the  san- 
guinary scenes  at  Bemis^s  Heights  and  the  surrender 
at  Saratoga. 

French  Mountain  opens  to  view  a  little  beyond,  with 
a  succession  of  high  grounds  in  the  direction  of  South 
Bay,  Lake  George,  &c. 

About  half  a  mile  above  Fort  £dward,  stands  an  old 
tree,  which  marks  the  place  where  was  perpetrated 

The  Murder  of  Miss  M'Crea. 

Miss  M^Crea  lived  in  the  village  of  Fort  Edward. 
In  the  Revolutionary  war,  a  youn^  man  named  Jones, 
to  whom  she  was  betrothed,  having  attached  himself 
to  the  English  cause,  and  joined  their  forces  in  Canada, 
was  invested  with  a  captain's  command  in  Gen.  Bur- 
goyne's  army.  After  tne  retreat  of  the  Americans 
From  the  lake,  and  while  the  British  were  approaching, 
he  sent  a  party  of  Indians  to  Fort  Edward  to  bring 
his  intended  bride  to  him,  that  he  might  secure  her 
safety.  She  was  very  unwilling  to  proceed  with  her 
savage  conductcs  on  the  road  towards  Fort  Anne; 
and  had  gone  only  half  a  mile  when  the  Indians 
stopped  to  drink  at  a  spring  which  still  flows  by  the 


■  I  III  v^Ri   II  n^m 


BAKER  S   FALLS. 


245 


line 


way  side.  While  here  they  were  met  by  another  party 
of  Indians  despatched  to  hasten  them  on.  Those  who 
came  last  attempted  to  take  her  under  their  charge  ; 
but  the  others,  being  determined  not  to  ^ive  her  up 
alive,  bound  her  to  a  tree  that  is  yet  standing  nea^  the 
spring,  and  shot  her  dead  with  their  muskets.  Locks 
of  her  hair  were  borne  to  her  lover  to  prove  that  the 
Indians  had  performed  what  they  considered  their  duty 
to  their  employer. 

This  story  rang  through  the  country ;  and  it  was 
reported  that  Gen.  Burgoyne  encouraged,  or,  at  least, 
permitted  the  murder.  In  indignant  terms  he  denied 
the  charge ;  and  there  appears  no  probability  that  he 
had  the  least  knowledge  of  it.  He,  however,  was 
justly  chaiigeable  with  a  great  offence  against  humanity, 
in  bringing  tribes  of  savages  in  his  train,  whose  barba- 
rity he  could  never  be  sure  of  restraining. 

Fort  Edward. 

This  village  was  built  in  the  neighbourhood  of  a 
fort  raised  during  the  war  of  1755,  for  the  defence  of 
this  point  of  the  river.  It  was  first  called  Fort  Lyman 
af)er  Gen.  Lyman,  of  whom  we  have  already  had 
occasion  to  make  honourable  mention  at  Lake  George. 
This  spot  was  formerly  called  the  First  Carrying 
Place, being  the  point  where,  in  the  expeditions  against 
Canada,  the  troops,  stores,  &c.,  were  landed  and  taken 
to  Wood  Creek,  a  distance  of  12  miles,  where  they 
were  again  embarked. 

Baker^s  Falls,  at  Sandy  Hill, 

are  worthy  of  particular  attention,  and  are  seen  to 
great  advanl|g^e  from  some  parts  of  the  bank.  The 
whole  descent  of  the  river  at  this  place  is  about  75 

feet.  J 


'i4(; 


NKW-YORK   TO   NEW-ENGLAND. 


Fort  IJillei  . 

The  village  still  retains  the  name  of  a  fort  erected 
on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  in  former  times.  It  was 
a  work  of  insignificant  size,  situated  on  the  bank  and 
near 

Miller's  Falls. 

The  descent  of  the  river  here  is  rapid,  and  over  a 
broken  channel.  The  falls  were  formerly  considered 
impassable  with  safety,  until  Gen.  Putnam  performed 
it  while  stationed  at  Fort  Miller,  in  the  French  war. 

The  Great  Dam. 

Above  Fort  Edward,  a  large  and  expensive  dam  has 
been  built  across  the  river,  and  a  canal  cut  along  the 
bank  to  open  a  passage  for  boats.  [The  dam  is  900 
feet  long.] 

[For  places  on  any  route  selected  by  the  traveller, 
see  the  Index.] 

TOUR  OF  NEW-ENGLAND. 

To  Travellers  going  Eastward  from  New-York, 

It  is  recommended  to  the  stranger  who  is  travelling 
eastward  to  see  the  country,  to  determine  on  some  plan 
for  his  journey  before  setting  out.    A  stage  coach* 


'*'  The  coach  sets  off  for  New-Haven  every  morning  at  8  o'clock,  from 
Jaques's  stage  office,  in  Cortlandt-street,  passing  through  Harlsm  on 
Manhattan  Island,  West  Chester,  East  Chester,  NewRochelle,  Maina- 
ronee,  and  Rye,  in  the  state  of  New- York ;  and  Greenwich,  Stamford, 
Darien,  Norwalk,  Fairfield,  Bridgeport,  Stratford,  M iiford,  and  Orange, 
in  Connecticut. 

In  Ilarlsni,  the  road  passes  near  the  East  river,  and  gives  a  view  of 
Hell  Gate. 

flpvond  Morrispania,  the  of  tar.*»  and  mansion  of  the  Hon.  Gov.  Morris  i^ 


I. 


■•  V^" 


i:a8t  kiveu. 


'i4T 


view  of 
tlorris  i^ 


e^es  every  morning  to  Connecticut,  and  onward ;  but 
tnis  is  not  the  most  agreeable  route.  Steamboats  go 
from  New  York  to  the  following  places  on  the  northern 
shore  of  Long  Island  Sound :  Norwalk,  Stamford, 
Stratford,  New-Haven,  Connecticut  river  (and  up  that 
to  Hartford),  New-London  (and  Norwich),  Newport 
(and  Providence). 

EAST  RIVER. 

Leaving  New-York,  in  any  of  the  East  river  steam- 
boats, the  traveller  has  Brooklyn  on  the  right  (now 
the  third  town  for  s^ze  in  the  state,  and  strictly  a  sub- 
urb of  the  capital). 

The  JVavy  yard,  just  beyond. 

The  Railway f  for  ships,  is  above,  on  the  west  side. 

seen  on  the  right:  one  of  the  finest  for  tastefiilness  and  extent  in  tluH 
part  of  the  country.    (See  Battle  of  White  Plains,  page  23.) 

In  the  town  of  Horseneck,  33  miles  from  New-Vorlt,  is  a  steei;  hili 
descending  towards  the  north,  down  which  General  Putnam  once  effected 
his  escape  from  several  British  officers  and  soldiers  during  the  revolu- 
tionary war,  when  returning  from  a  scout.  He  drove  his  horse'hastily 
down  the  rocky  hill  side,  a  little  east  of  tlie  road,  and  near  tiie  fence,  and 
saved  so  much  distance  as  to  elude  his  pursuers. 

West  Chester,  and  the  country  about  it,  were  at  that  period  neutral 
ground ;  and  Mr.  Cooper,  the  novelist,  has  made  them  the  scene  of  his 
popular  tale— "The  Spy." 

In  the  town  of  Fairfield,  53  miles  from  New- York,  a  mile  or  two  be- 
fore reaching  the  village,  is  a  low,  level  piece  of  ground,  on  the  right- 
hand  side  of  the  road,  which  was  formerly  an  almost  impenetrable 
swamp,  and,  at  an  early  period  of  our  history,  was  the  scene  of  a  bloody 
slaughter.  It  was  hither  that  the  remains  of  a  powerful  and  terrible 
nation  of  Indians,  called  Pequods,  having  fled  from  their  country  about 
New-London  and  Grnton,  after  the  destruction  of  their  fort  at  Mystic 
by  Capt.  Mason,  in  1636,  were  jitlier  killed  or  taken  captive.  This  was 
their  last  and  total  defeat,  and  extinguished  their  name  as  a  nation. 
Much  of  the  ground  has  been  cleared  in  modern  times ;  and  some  relics 
have  been  found  to  confirm  the  traditions  of  the  neighbourhood. 

This  place  was  burned  by  the  British  in  the  Revolution.  Danbury,  an 
inland  town,  was  also  burned,  with  extensive  public  stores,  and  an  action 
was  fought  in  which  Gen.  Wooster  fell. 

On  the  east  side  of  Housatonnuc,  or  Stratford  river,  a  mile  or  more 
above  the  bridge,  was  once  a  fort,  built  by  the  Indians  of  the  place,  to 
secure  themselves  against  the  Mohawks,  who  had  subjugated  most  of 
the  country  on  the  western  side  of  Connecticut  river  before  the  arrival 
of  the  English.  It  has  been  proposed  to  make  a  canal  along  the  course 
of  the  Housatonnuc.     _ 


TlfTTT" 


:248 


IVEW-YOMK    TO   JNEW-ENGLAKI/. 


The  old  Penitentiary  and  Fever  Hospital  are  jvsi 
above,  on  the  shore. 

BlackwelVs  Island, — The  new  Penitentiary  has  been 
erected  on  this  insulated  spot,  which  offers  many  ad- 
vantages for  such  an  institution.  The  building  is  aboot 
1000  feet  from  the  south  end  of  the  island.  Its  foun- 
dation, which  is  solid  rock,  is  about  5>0  feet  above 
high  water  mark.  The  building,  which  is  200  feet  in 
length  by  50  in  breadth,  will  contain  240  cells,  each 
3|  Feet  by  7,  and  separated  by  a  partition  t^  feet  thkck. 
Opposite  each  cell  there  is  an  aperture  In  the  outer 
wall,  through  which  the  inmate  will  receive  a  suffi- 
ciency of  fresh  air.  The  interior  is  upon  the  plan  of 
the  State  Prison  at  Singsing,  with  the  exception  that 
the  gallery  around  the  cells  is  of  iron  instead  of  wood, 
the  ascent  to  which  is  by  a  geometrical  staircase.  The 
doors  to  the  cells  are  all  of  iron — indeed,  the  only 
wood  in  the  building  is  in  the  roof,  which  may  even 
be  burned  off  without  the  least  danger  to  the  rest  of 
the  building.  The  stone  of  which  the  walls  and  floors 
are  made,  is  the  common  gneiss,  and  was  all  quarried 
on  the  island  and  hewed  by  the  convicts.  The  lime 
used  in  constructing  the  prison,  was  also  burned  on  the 
island.  Four  sentinels  are  placed  on  elevated  platforms 
in  different  parts  of  the  island,  who  are  allowed  no 
intercourse  either  by  word  or  sign  wit>  he  prisoners. 
They  are  marched  rank  and  file  to  their  meals  in  a 
temporary  building  prepared  for  the  purpose,  where 
they  also  dispose  themselves  for  sleep  at  the  word  of 
command,  and  sentinels  march  between  their  ranks 
during  the  night.  No  spiritous  liquor  is  allowed  to  be 
brought  upon  the  island.  Four  excellent  springs  of 
water  afford  them  drink. 

The  island  is  Ij  miles  in  length  and  about  600  feet 
in  width,  and  will  yield  abundance  of  vegetables.  It 
was  the  design  of  the  Corporation  in  purchasing  this 
island,  to  make  it  the  seat  of  punishment  in  all  its 
forms.  At  the  extremity  of  the  island,  opposite  the 
Penitentiary,  will  be  another  for  females — and  between 


:SSiV^ -UAXES. 


'M\) 


just 

been 

f  ad- 

ibout 

foun- 

ibove 

eet  in 

,  each 

thick. 

outer 

I  suffi" 

)lan  of 

n  that 

wood, 
The 

e  only 

y  even 

rest  of 

1  floors 

uanied 

le  lime 
on  the 
ittorms 
ed  no 
,soners. 

[a  Is  in  a 
,  where 
ivord  of 

|r  ranks 
;d  to  be 
•inRS  of 


this  and  the  overseer's  house  on  each  side,  will  be  twa 
other  buildings  for  vagrants  of  both  sexes. 

At  Hell  Gate,  numerous  objects  present  themselves 
on  entering  the  bay.  On  the  distant  high  ground,  west, 
is  seen  the  Lunatic  Asylum ;  a  white  blockhouse  on 
the  hill  on  the  east  side ;  below  it,  an  old  fort  by  the 
water;  and  a  number  of  handsome  country  houses 
along  the  green  shore  on  the  left.  The  first  of  these 
is  Commodore  Caauncey's,  next,  Mr.  Schermerhom's; 
then,  Messrs.  Prime's,  Astor's,  &c.  The  surface  of  the 
river  is  broken  by  several  rocks,  and  by  the  agitation 
of  the  water,  particularly  at  the  whirl  called  the  Great 
Pot,  a  little  north  of  the  fort,  and  the  rapid^  current  on 
the  opposite  shore  known  by  the  name  of  the  Hog's- 
Back.  In  coming  from  the  north,  almost  the  firs*  view 
of  New- York  is  here  presented,  between  the  western 
shore  and  Blackwell's  Island,  with  a  shot  tower  on  the 
right. 

New-Haven. 

Tontine  Hotel,  Stage  House  (Stone's).  Several  pri- 
vate boarding-houses.  This  is  decidedly  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  towns  in  the  United  States.  The  soil 
is  not  very  good,  and  the  situation  is  low ;  the  town 
(or  rather  city)  is  laid  out  in  squares,  with  straight  and 
broad  streets,  and  the  elevated  ground  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood renders  the  approach  very  fine  from  almost 
fivery  direction.  It  stands  at  the  head  of  a  spacious 
bay,  with  a  lighthouse  on  the  eastern  point,  a  small 
fort  on  the  shore,  another  on  PixKpect  Hill,  and  two 
Bluffs,  called  East  and  West  Rocks,  2  or  3  miles  behind 
the  town.  A  more  distant  peak  is  seen  between  them, 
which  is  Mount  Carmel.  The  long  wharf  is  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  in  length.  The  steamboats  stop  at 
the  bridge,  where  carriages  will  be  found  in  waiting 
to  take  travellers  to  the  centre  of  the  town,  which  is 
more  than  a  mile  distant. 

^n  the  shore,  near  the  bridjrc.  is  a  large  T)!nlding  in 

y  -  ' 


J25U 


KOtTK   IN   CONNECTICUT. 


tended  for  a  steamboat  hotel,  but  now  occupied  as  a 
School  for  the  education  of  Boys^  by  the  Messrs. 
Dwight.  The  system  resembles  that  of  the  Round 
Hill  School  at  Northampton.  The  streets  of  the  town 
are  regular  and  pleasant,  forming  squares,  one  of  which 
is  a  green  surrounded  by  rows  of  elms,  with  three 
churches  and  the  new  State  House  in  the  middle,  and 
the  College  buildings  occupying  the  western  side,  pre- 
senting a  scene  pFobably  not  equalled  by  any  town  of 
this  size  in  the  United  States.  The  abundance  of  fine 
trees,  the  neatness  and  beauty  of  the  dwellings,  the 
^ood  society  of  the  p^ace,  and  the  distinguishea  posi- 
tion  it  holds  as  a  seat  of  learning,  render  New-Haven 
the  resort  of  a  great  number  of  strangers  during  the 
travelling  season,  and  the  temporary  residence  of  not 
a  few. 

Connecticut  School  Fund. — This  fund  now  amounts 
to  $1,882,251,  or  nearly  two  millions  of  dollars.  By 
means  of  this  fund,  tne  government  of  the  state  is 
enabled  annually  to  return  to  the  citizens  nearly  twice 
the  amount  withdrawn  in  taxes.  It  enables  parents  to 
educate  their  children  almost  gratuitously. 

There  is  a  Hopkins's  Grammar  School  in  the  town, 
and  a  number  of  Boarding  Schools  for  young  ladies, 
with  inslruclers  in  every  branch  of  useful  and  orna- 
men  di  education.  A  nourisWxne  Lancasterian  School 
in  this  place  contains  about  200  boys. 

Yale  College. — This  institution,  however,  is  the  prin- 
cipal object  which  will  attract  the  attention  of  the 
stranger.  It  was  founded  in  1701,  and  first  located  at 
Killingworth,  then  removed  to  Saybrook,  and  after  a 
few  years  permanently  fixed  in  this  town.*  The  fust 
building  was  of  wood,  and  stood  near  the  corner  of 
College  and  Chapel-streets.  There  are  now  four 
buildmgs  for  students,  each  containing  32  rooms ;  a 
Chapel,  with  c  Philosophical  chamber  and  apparatus, 


♦  The  expense  of  tuition,  rooin,&c.  far  a  year,  ia  about  |50-~of  board 
in  Comuiou?,  about  $75, 


YALE   OOLLtGK. 


I'&I 


Fnn- 
the 
ted  at 
iter  a 
iie  fust 
ner  ot 
four 
ms;  a 


-of  b9Ql<3 


r*ri  0])seryatory  and  a  Lyceum,  with  recitation  rooms 
and  the  library.  In  the  rear  are  the  Gymnastic  appa- 
ratus, the  Commons  Hall,  in  a  small  buildin^^  with  the 
splendid  Mineralogical  Cabinet  above,  which  is  the 
finest  collection  of  the  kind  in  the  United  States,  lately 
purchased  from  Colonel  Gibbs  of  New-York.  In 
another  building  is  the  Chemical  Laboratory,  where 
Professor  Silliman  delivers  his  lectures.  The  insti- 
tution contained,  in  1829,  496  students,  distributed!  as 
folio  /s: — Theoloeical  Students,  49;  Law  Students, 
21  ;  Medical  Students,  61 ;  Resident  Graduates,  6 ; 
Seniors,  71;  Juniors,' 87  ;  Sophomores,  95 ;  Freshmen, 

106.  rOt 

An  Observatory  has  recently  been  erected,  after  the 
model  of  the  Tower  of  the  Winds  at  Athens,  and  in 
like  manner  surmounted  with  a  Triton. 

Next  north  of  the  College  is  the  house  of  President 
Day,  and  the  professors  have  pleasant  residences  in 
the  town.  The  new  State  House  and  the  churches 
on  the  green,  present  a  remarkably  fine  appearance  ; 
with  the  College  buildings  and  numerous  elegant 
houses  around  it. 

The  Medical  Institution  is  at  the  north  end  of  Col- 
lege-street. Like  many  other  buildings  in  the  place, 
it  is  of  rough  stone,  covered  with  plaster.  The  canal 
passes  just  in  the  rear. 

In  1826  there  were  336  students  who  received  de- 
grees in  all  the  colle&fes  of  New-England.  The 
number  of  students  in  all  the  Medical  Schools  in  the 
United  States  in  that  year  was  about  1700. 

Colleges  in  New-England, — There  were  1399  stu- 
dents in  all  the  New-England  Colleges  in  1627,  of 
whom  130  belonged  to  Maine,  131  to  New-Hampshire, 
146  from  Vermont,  431  from  Massachusetts,  and  196 
from  Connecticut. 

[According  to  the  Registers  of  the  several  States, 
there  are  in  New-Eneland,  exclusive  of  Rhode  Island^ 
1,633  ministers  of  the  Gospel,  viz.  862  Congrega- 
tionalist?,  605  Baptists,  167  Methodists,  72  EIpiscG- 


26a 


UOUTE   IS   CONMECTICUT. 


palians,  15  Presbyterian<'>  85  Freewill  Baptists,  24 
Universalists,  and  6  Cbrist-ians.  Of  these  228  are  in 
Maine,  241  in  New-Hampshire,  284  in  Vermont,  497 
in  Massachusetts,  and  383  in  Connecticut.  In  propor^ 
lion  to  the  population,  the  ministers  of  all  denomina- 
tions are,  in  New-Hampshire,  as  1  to  1,013  ;  in  Massa- 
chusetts,  as  1  to  1,052  ;  in  Connecticut,  as  1  to  718  ;  in 
Vermont,  as  1  to  830.  Of  the  Congregational  ministers, 
101  are  in  Maine,  111  are  in  New-Hampshire,  114  in 
Vermont,  352  in  Massachusetts,  and  184  in  Connec- 
ticut ;  being  to  the  whole  population  respectively,  as 
I  to  2,952  ;  1  to  2,199  ;  1  to  2,068  ;  1  to  1,486  ;  and  1 
to  1,495.  It  should  be  nQtJced,  however,  that  the 
Registers  are  not  perfectly  accurate,  and  that  we  are 
pbliged  to  compare  the  population  in  1820  with  the 
number  of  ministers  in  1827.  There  are  thought  to 
be  about  10,000  schoolmasters  in  New-England.  The 
militia  of  Connecticut,  officers  and  privates,  amount  to 
about  28,000  men.] 

A  General  Hospital  Society  for  the  state  of  Connec- 
ticut was  founded  in  1828  ;  and  the  building  is  to  be 
erected  in  New-Haven. 

The  New  Burying  Ground  is  situated  opposite  the 
Medical  Institution,  and  occupies  a  large  extent  of 
land,  partly  planted  with  poplars,  and  containing  a 
great  number  of  beautiful  ornaments,  of  different  de- 
signs. It  is  considered  the  most  beautiful  cemetery  in 
this  country. 

The  Old  Burying  Ground  was  in  the  middle  of  the 
green,  in  the  rear  of  the  Centre  Church,  and  there  are 
to  be  seen  two  ancient  stone  monuments,  of  a  small 
size,  which  are  supposed  to  mark  the  graves  of  two 
of  the  regicide  judges,  Whalley  and  Dixwell,  although 
there  is  much  doubt  on  the  subject.  (See  Stilefv's 
Judges.) 


1/ 


THE    FARMINGTON   CANAL. 


('>: 


!J>> 


New-Haven  and  Farminoton  Canai. 


•'-'A. 


This  work  was  commenced  about  three  years  ago^ 
and  is  designed  to  afford  a  navigable  boat  channel,  to 
the  Massacnusetts  line  in  Simsbuiy,  where  it  is  met 
by  the  Hampshire  and  Hampden  Canalf  which  is  to 
strike  Connecticut  River  at  Northampton.  By  an  act 
passed  in  1828  by  the  legislature  of  Massachusetts, 
this  work  may  be  continued  along  the  course  of  the 
river,  and  the  associated  companies  extend  their 
views  to  the  construction  of  a  Canal  to  Bamet  in  Ver- 
mont. The  Company  for  the  Improvement  of  Con- 
necticut River  are,  at  the  same  time,  pursuing  a  system, 
which  will  be  hereafter  more  particularly  adverted  to. 

The  New-Haven  and  Farmington  canal,  commencing 
near  the  head  of  the  wharf  in  this  city,  is  crossed  by 
the  traveller  in  going  up  from  the  steamboat,  near  the 
market.  The  basin  is  large  and  commodious ;  and  the 
canal,  passing  through  a  part  of  the  city,  and  bending 
round  along  the  outskirts,  on  the  north  side,  intersects 
several  streets,  by  which  it  is  crossed  on  handsome 
bridges.  With  a  gradual  ascent,  the  canal  passes 
somewhat  circuitously  up  the  valley  which  opens 
towards  Mount  Carmel,  between  East  and  West 
Rocks ;  and  one  of  the  staee  roads  to  Hartford,  which 
passes  through  Cheshire  and  Farmington,  affords  many 
views  of  it  in  different  places.  When  the  whole  line 
shall  become  navieable,  it  will  be  an  attraction  to 
many  travellers,  and  in  a  future  edition,  the  objects 
along  it  may  be  particularized. 

The  rates  of  toll  established  in  1828  were — 10  cents 
a  mile  on  every  packet  boat,  and  3  cents  on  every 
passenger ;  2  cents  a  mile  on  freight  boats  of  less  than 
20  tons,  and  3  cents  on  lareer  ones  ;  1  or  1  i  cent  pel 
mile,  on  most  heavy  articles  per  ton,  in  boats,  and  3 
cents  in  rafts. 

.    The  first  part  of  the  canal  passes  through  an  easy 

Y  1 


im 


264 


B0T7TE   ITI  C0M1SECTICVT. 


and  natural  channel,  where  is  little  variation  in  the 
surface;  and  introdr?es  us  to  the  beautiful  and  fertile 
meadows  at  Farminffton.  The  upper  part,  however, 
and  particularly  the  Hampshire  ana  Hampden  Canal, 
required  much  lockage ;  but  the  irregularity  of  the 
country  will  present  an  interestinjf  variety  of  scenery. 
Jocelyn  has  published  an  elegant'and'  valuable  map  of 
the  canal  and  adjacent  country,  to  the  Canada  line. 

There  are  pleasant  rides  in  various  directions  from 
New- Haven,  the  roads  being  numerous,  and  the  face  of 
the  country  favourable.  The  two  mountains  command 
extensive  views,  and  though  the  access  is  rather 
fatiffuing,  the  excursion  is  recommended  to  those  who 
are  fond  of  such  enterprises. 

The  Judges*  Cctve  13  on  the  summit  of  West  Rock^ 
about  a  mile  north  of  the  bluff:  and  the  way  to  it 
leads  near  Beaver  Pondj  and  Pine  Rock  (on  the  south 
side  of  which  is  a  small  cave),  then  between  Pine  and 
West  Rocks.  You  here  turn  off  the  road  to  the  left, 
by  a  path  across  a  brook :  and  a  guide  may  usually  be 
obtained  at  a  small  house  just  beyond,  who  can  show 
a  horse  path  to  the  summit: 

The  cave  is  formed  by  the  crevices  between  seven 
hree  rocks,  apparently  thrown  together  by  some  con- 
vulsion. It  is  small,  and  entirely  above  ground,  with 
a  rude  rock,  like  a  column,  on  each  band.  That  on  thd 
right  contains  this  inscription, 

"Opposition  to  tyrants  is  obedience  to  God," 

to  remind  the  visiter  that  the  place  once  afforded  shelter 
to  Goffe  and  Whalley,  two  of  the  judges  of  kinff 
Charles  the  First,  who  escaped  to  the  colonies  and 
secreted  themselves  for  some  time  in  this  solitaiy 
place.  They  were  supplied  with  food  by  a  family 
which  resided  near  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and  a 
little  boy  was  despatched  for  them  every  day,  who 
left  a  basket  of  provisions  on  a  rock,  without  knowing 
what  cause  ht  was  subseryiqg.    The  place  commanas 


and 
ary 
nily 


ROAl)   TO   3IlDI)L£T0Wni.  ^65 

an  extensive  view  upon  the  country  below,  with  a 
laige  tract  of  Long  Iswnd.  and  the  Soundl,         ^V 

The  Manufattory  of  Muskets  is  2  miles  not^  of 
New-Haven,  on  the  road  to  Hartford,  by  Mender,  a\nd 
at  the  foot  of  East  Rock.  It  was  established  b}r'Mr. 
Whitney,  the  well-known  inventor  of  th^  Cotton  (Sllrt. 
Th^  machinery  is  carried  by  the  watbr  of  a  sthall 
riv^,  and  thenbus^^  of  th6  overseers  arid  ^drkirtcfn 
make  a'  pretty  appeatanc^  on  the  stibfe.  Mbsket^are 
made^  H^re  in  all  theil*  p^ttk,  niatijr  bf  them  for  th6 
arsenals  of  the  United  States'.  It  is  dest^ed  tbthake 
the  airms  so  much  alike^  tb^t'the  pattsmay  be  appHed 
indifK^nrtly  tb  all  th^t  proceed  from  the  same  manfu- 
factory,  ft  is  not' foona  possible,  however^  to  accbtta- 
plish  this  object  to  the  full  extent  desired. 

Road  to  B^iddletowa". 

Nbrthford 10  miles. 

Durham .    .    v    8 

Middletbwn 6 

(Foradeseviption  of  this  beautiful  town,  see  beyond.) 

Beyond  New-Haven  in  Lon^  Island  Sound,  lies  a 
cluster  of  ishnds  called  the  Thimbles,  famous  in  the 
traditions  of  the  nei^bburin^  Connecticut  coast,  as 
the  ancient  resort  of  Capt.  Kidd,  a  notable  pirate, 
whose  treasures  of  solid  gold,  it  is  still  believed  by 
some,  are  concealed  somewhere  hereabouts.  Withirt 
this  labyrinth  of  islands  and  headlands  is  a  jittle 
secluded  ba;^  or  inlet,  capable  of  containing  only  one 
vessel  at  a  timej  which  bears  the  name  of  ludd's  Har- 
bour. There  is  also  his  island,  his  chair,  ahd  his 
*  punch  bowl.'  There  are  several  houses  alon^  the 
shore,  within  a  few  miles  of  this  place,  which  are  re- 
sorted to  during  the  warm  season  by  a  considerable 
number  of  visiters  from  the  interior,  for  the  sake  of 
bathing  in  the  salt  water,  and  eatii^  lobsters,  black 
fish,  and  oysters.    In  SeptewftiBr  ancTOetober,  ducks 


^^i^nmmmmitm..*^ 


■•^■^•^^■P^f^lP^ 


25t) 


UOtri:    l.N    COAKKCTICLT. 


in^y  be  found  in  great  quantities  near  the  shore,  ami 
black  fish  are  caught  in  considerable  numbers ;  but 
the  best  fishing  is  further  east,  at  New-London,  New- 
port, &c. 

[As  it  is  necessary,  in  a  work  like  this,  we  have 
undertaken  to  pursue  some  definite  course,  and  to 
mention  places  and  objects  in  the  order  in  which  they 
will  probably  occur  to  most  travellers,  we  shall  here 
leave  Long  island  Sound  to  proceed  up  Connecticut 
River,  and  only  refer  the  reader  to  the  Index  for  an 
Account  of  the  coast  beyond,  and  the  following  subjects 
and  places :  New-London,  the  Thames,  Norwich, 
the  Mohicans,  the  Pequods,  Saccacus's  Fort,  Mystic 
Fort,  the  Narragansett  shore,  Newport,  Providence, 

SAYBROOK. 

At  this  place  was  the  first  settlenient  made  by  Euro- 
peans on  Connecticut  River.  It  was  done  at  the  earnest 
solicitation  of  many  of  the  ri&htful  proprietors  of  the 
country  on  its  banks,  who  had  been  despoiled  of  their 

Possessions  by  their  formidable  enemies,  the  Pequods. 
'he  River  Indians,  as  our  old  histories  usually  deno- 
minate the  former,  twice  made  application  to  the 
English  at  Plymouth  and  at  Boston,  to  obtain  settlers 
upon  their  native  soil,  offering  to  give  them  land  enough, 
and  to  pay  200  beaver  skins  annually  for  the  benefit 
of  their  society.  But  the  undertaking  was  considered 
too  hazardous,  and  it  was  not  until  the  year  1635,  when 
the  Dutch  at  New-York. showed  a  dfetermination  to 
seize  upon  the  country,  which  they  claimed  as  their 
own,  that  a  small  detachment  of  men  was  sent  from 
Boston  by  water  to  prepare  for  opening  a  trade  with 
the  Indians,  and  to  build  a  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river.  Their  haste  was  soon  justified  by  events  :  for 
immediately  after  their  landing,  a  Dutch  vessel  entered, 
and  proceeding  up  to  Hartford,  landed  a  body  of  men, 
who  soon  establisned     er- -elves  in  a  fort  they  called 


ami 
but 
ew- 

iiave 

id  to 

they 

here 

tticut 

or  an 

bjects 

■wicb, 

Cystic 

ience, 


D.  .V.  Tiiro.fn  Sejv:r: 


4 


,u- <«« 


/.>■■ 


l... 


*    .* 


.-1-.  V, 


SAVUUUOK. 


'2ix7 


Good  Hope,  on  a  spot  Ihey  obtained  from  Pequod 
usurpers. 

The  settlement  of  Saybrook  was  begun  under  a 
grant  made  to  Lord  Say  and  Seal,  Lord  Brooke  and 
others,  by  Geoi^e  Fenwick,  £sa.  who  fled  to  this 
country  with  his  family.    The  old  fort  stood  near  the 
present  fort  hilL  upon  an  eminence  which  has  since 
Deen  destrojred  oy  the  waves  ;  and  the  ground  imme- 
diately behind  it  was    afterward   occupied  by  tne 
fields  and  habitations  of  the  colonists.    It  was  expected 
from  the  first,  that  the  situation  would  render  the  place 
a  ereat  city ;  and  ailer  the  fear  of  the  Indians  had 
suosided,  tne  whole  peninsula,  which  bears  the  name 
of  Saybrook   Point,  was  laid  out  with  the  greatest  . 
regularity  into  fields  of  an  equal  size,  except  such  parts 
as  were  reserved  for  the  erection  of  public  buildings. 
Yale  College  was  placed  here  for  a  time,  and  a  ereat 
number  of  emigrants  were  once  collected  in  England, 
and  prepared  for  a  voyage  to  this  place.  Some  persons 
of  high  rank  and  importance  were  among  them,  and  it 
is  a  #ell-authenticated  fact,  th^t  Oliver  Cromwell  had 
detetmin^d  t6  endbafk  in  the  enterprise,  ahd  Was  biice 
on  the  veiy  efte  of  c(ultting  England  fc*  evtir,  y^hkti 
som6  urtforeseeM  octui'rence  prevented  hi^. 

The  Wtknt  of  a  harbour,  and  the  obstacles  piielserited 
tty  a  (te^  navigation  bf  a  large  sand  bs^r  ii  the  moatn 
of  thfe  river,  hate  effectually  prevented  the  expecta- 
tions of  thift'  iettfe^  of  Saybrook  ffom  being  realized ; 
and  no  remains  of  their  works  can  now  be  discovered, 
except  in  th6  rectangular  forms  of  the  fields,  and  the 
cellars  of  i6tn€  of  tneh*  dwellings,  just  beyond  the 
burying  ground,  the  foundation  stones  of  which  have 
since  been  employed  in  building  the  neighbouring 
fences.  One  of^  the  largest  excavations  is  said  to  have 
been  the  cellar  of  the  old  college  building.  The  soU 
diers  v^ere  frequeiltly  attacked  Ivithin  a  short  distahte 
of  the  fort  by  the  Peanods,  but  they  aftei^ward  fan  A 
palisade  acro!=(s  the  isthmus  which  leads  fVoiri  the  main- 
Janri  ----■  ■■    ■■■  -  '"  ■•- :  -  -   ^- 


'^h^  ROUTK    IS   (.'OK.NECTICIT. 


'J 


/  CONNECTICUT  HIVEK. 

The  shores  present  a  continued  succession  of  hilly 
and  picturesque  country,  with  few  interruptions  of 
level  land,  from  a  little  above  Saybrook  as  far  as  Mid- 
dletown.  The  roughness  and  rocky  nature  of  the  soil 
prevent  the  cultivation  of  many  mountainous  tracts  : 
yet  there  are  farms  enough  to  give  a  considerable 
degree  of  softness  to  the  scenery.  The  variety  of 
rocky  and  wooded  banks,  mingling  with  little  patches 
of  cultivated  ground,  and  the  habitations  scattered 
along  the  river,  is  very  agreeable,  and  often  affords 
scenes  highly  picturesque  and  delightful. 

Essex, 

T  miles  from  Saybrook. 

This  piace  was  formerly  caller <  Pettipaug.  It  is  a 
small  village,  situated  on  tne  ascent  ana  summit  of  a 
handsome  elevation,  and  contains  a  church  and  one  or 
two  other  public  buildings,  on  a  conspicuous  position. 
Just  above  it  is  an  island  of  some  extent,  which  divides 
the  river  and  gives  it  an  unusual  breadth.  During  the 
Jate  war  with  Great  Britain,  this  place  was  taken  by 
the  enemy,  v;  ho  came  up  the  river  in  launcbeSf  and 
taking  the  inhabitants  by  surprise,  occupied  the  town 
ibr  a  few  hoars. 

Sonie  distance  above  this  place  the  channel  lies  so 
jiear  the  eastern  shore,  that  the  steamboat  passes 
.alrpost  under  the  trees  by  which  it  is  shaded. 

Joshua's  Rock  is  on  the  same  side  of  the  river,  a 
.little  below  Brockway's  Ferry.  It  is  said  to  have  de- 
rived its  name  from  the  son  of  Uncas,  Sachem  of  the 
JVLohicans  (see  JSlorwich),  who,  according  to  a  tradition 
.current  in  the  neighbourhood,  being  once  closely  pur- 
sued by  enemies,  threw  himself  from  the  top  oi  the 
rock,  and  perished  in  the  river. 


IfADUAM. 


2dD 


\V ARNJ2U8  Feuby,  1 3  mUes  from  Sayhrooh, 

East  IIaddam. 

The  landing  place  here  is  rocky,  mountainous,  and 
wild,  and  a  eood  specimen  of  a  large  portion  of  the 
town  to  whicn  it  belongs.  Gen.  Champion  has  a  fine 
house  built  among  the  rocks  above,  which  adds  much 
to  the  appearance  of  the  place.  This  region  is  famous 
for  a  kmd  of  earthquakes  and  subterranean  sounds, 
which  were  formerly  common  for  a  short  distance 
round.  They  gave  occasion  to  many  superstitious 
reports,  but  nave  ceased  within  a  few  years.  They 
were  called  Moodus  Noises,  after  the  Indian  name  of 
the  place.  Large  beryls  are  found  in  the  neighbour- 
hood,  and  many  other  minerals  interesting  to  the  scien- 
tific traveller. 

IIaddam 

is  built  on  an  eminence  50  or  60  feet  high,  which  ap- 
pears like  the  remains  of  an  old  bank  of  the  river, 
descending  a  little  meadow  which  is  covered  with 
orchards,  grazing  ground,  &:c-  while  a  range  of  com- 
manding hills  rise  beyond. 

IIlGUENUM 

* 

is  one  of  the  little  landing  places  so  numerous  along 
the  river's  course,  2  miles  above  Haddam. 

Middle  Haddam,  2  miles. 

This  is  a  pleasant  country  village,  stretching  along 
a  hill  ccvered  with  orchards  and  house  lots,  and 
backed  by  higher  and  wilder  eminences.  It  is  about 
6  miles  below  Middletown. 


2»J0 


liOLTE    IN    C0]N2iiEt:Tlc;i.T 


Looking  down  the  river  from  a  little  above  thir; 
place,  a  lar^e  and  beautiful  hill  is  seen,  which  affords 
the  richest  scene  of  cultivation  on  this  part  of  the  river, 
being  entirely  covered  with  fields  and  orchards.  A 
larffe  wooded  eminence  is  a  little  higher  up,  and  several 
high  hills,  almost  worthy  of  the  nan^e  of  mountainsr 
are  visible  in  the  north. 

The  Narrows. 

Here  the  river  turns  abruptly  to  the  west,  and  flows 
between  two  lofty  hills,  which  it  has  divided  at  some 
lonff  past  period,  before  which,  there  is  every  reason 
to  Believe,  the  country  for  a  great  distance  above  was 
covered  by  a  lake.  A  mile  or  two  eastward  of  this 
place,  there  is  the  appearance  of  an  old  channel,  where 
the  water  probably  ran,  at  a  great  height  above  its 
present  level. 

The  Lead  Mine  is  a  short  distance  from  the  southern 
bank  of  the  river,  near  two  or  three  old  houses. 

Fort  Hill  if  the  last  elevated  part  of  the  southern 
bank.  It  was  formerly  a  little  fortress  belonging  to 
Souheag,  an  Indian  chief,  whose  dominion  extended 
over  the  present  towns  of  Middletown,  Chatham,  and 
Wethersfield.  The  large  buildings  on  the  hill  in  Mid- 
dletown were  erected  for  Capt.  Partridge's  Academy. 

MIDDLETOWN 

is  beautifully  situated  on  the  western  bank  of  tiie  river, 
where  the  water  is  spread  out  to  a  considerable  breadth, 
and  disappears  so  suddenly  at  the  Narrows,  that  from 
many  pomts  of  vievt,  it  has  the  appearance  of  a  small 
lake,  with  high,  sloping,  and  cultivated  shores.  This 
*is  a  most  agreeable  residence  for  strangers,  particularly 
for  families,  during  the  pleasant  seasons  of  the  year, 
and  will  no  doubt  be  soon  supplied  with  more  nume- 
rous and  extensive  accommoaations. 
A  large  hotel  ba&  recently  been  built,  which  iskep'. 


VilUDLKTOUA, 


261 


its 


ter' 


by  Mr.  Newton.    Mr.  Campus  and  Mr.  EoardmatCi 
(in  the  same  street)  are  large  inns. 

jT^c  Quarries  of  Freestone^  on  the  opposite  shore, 
have  furnished  a  valuable  building  material  for  some 
years,  and  have  been  worked  to  a  considerable  extent. 

Manufactories,  Cotton,  Woollen,  and  Rifle  Manu- 
factories, and  three  machine  shops,  are  near  the  bridge 
at  the  south  end  of  the  street.  Col.  North's  Pistol 
Manufactory  is  situated  two  or  three  miles  west  of  the 
town.  T -lere  are  also  Starr's  Rifle  Factory,  Johnson's 
Sword  Factor)',  the  Pameacha  Woollen,*  Spalding's 
Tape,  and  Pratt's  Comb  factories. 

There  are  various  pleasant  rides  in  this  neighbour- 
hood, particularly  to  two  picturesque  Water  Falls  in 
Middlefield.  In  the  direction  of  one  of  them  is  Laurel 
Grove,  where  the  road  is  shaded  for  near  half  a  mile 
with  those  shrubs,  which,  in  the  soason,  are  covered 
with  flowers.  The  environs  of  this  place  afford  other 
agreeable  rides. 

The  Lead  Mine  is  about  two  miles  below  the  town* 
on  the  south  shore  of  the  river,  accessible  only  on  foot 
or  in  a  boat,  where  are  several  old  shafts,  whiich  were 
sunk  in  the  Rv?volutionary  war,  in  a  slate  rock.  The 
ore  is  a  sulphuret  of  lead,  in  veins  of  quartz,  partly 
crystallized,  and  affording  a  few  specimens  of  fluate 
of  lime,  and  other  minerals. 

The  Cobalt  Mine  is  about  five  mi!  as  east,  in  Chatham^ 
at  the  foot  of  Rattlesnake  Hill.  It  is  not  worth  work 
ing,  at  the  usual  price  of  the  metal.  Specimens  of 
peach-bloom  of  cobalt  may  be  picked  up  among  the 
rubbish.  Just  southerly  from  ft  is  a  very  pretty  water 
fall,  about  thirty  feet  high. 

A  number  of  German  families  live  in  the  neighbour* 
hood ;  the  descendants  of  miners,  who  came  from 
Europe  some  years  ago  to  work  the  mine. 

*  The  Pamcf!< rfta  Manufactory  employti  from  150  to  200  pcnrona,  con- 
suttiRH  100,000  Ihs.  of  lint-  wool,  and  turns  out  dO,000  yds.  of  ftni^heil 
broridclnth  a  venr. 

Z 


'i()'2 


i> 


JtOUTJ:    Vi*   COANKCTIOLT    KIVJiK. 


Uri'EK  Houses, 

a  village  ot"  Middletown,  2  miles  above. 

From  a  hill  1  mile  from  this  is  a  very  pleasant  view 
towards  the  south,  presenting  the  river,  with  the  mea- 
dow and  hills,  as  well  as  Middletown  and  the  fine 
high  grounds  ir  its  rear.  The  small  divisions  of  the 
soil  and  the  density  of  the  population,  as  well  as  the 
fertility  of  the  ground,  and  the  frequency  of  sch(K)l- 
houses  and  churches,  here  show  one  of  those  interest- 
ing and  beautiful  scenes  characteristic  o\  Co.  -^iticut 
River,  and  which  the  traveller  will  find  i  poaied  all 
along  its  course  far  into  New-Hampshire  and  Ver- 
mont. 

Rocky  Hill,  5  mi les,  a  parish  of  VVethcrsfield.  About 
half  a  mile  north  of  the  tavern,  you  reach  the  brow  of 
a  hill,  which  commands  a  rich  prospect  of  manj  miles 
of  the  Connecticut  Valley.  Wethersfield  lies  m  front, 
and  the  variegated  hills  and  plains  around  belong  to 
numerous  townships  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  en- 
closed by  ranges  ot  distant  highland,  which  direct  the 
course  of  its  channel.  On  the  left,  about  15  miles  off, 
is  the  ridge  of  Ta  cott  mount  tin;  and  the  two  bli!.; 
ueaks  in  the  north  are  Mounts  Tom  and  Holyoke,  n^  m 
Northampton,  at  the  distance  of  about  fifty  miles. 

Wethersfield, 3  miles  from  Hartford,  'iiiis place  ha.- 
a  fine  light  soil,  on  an  extensive  level,  probably  once 
the  bottom  of  a  lake  since  drained  by  the  deepening 
of  the  river's  channel.  It  is  peculiarly  favourable  to 
the  culture  of  onions,  which  are  exported  in  great 
quantities  to  various  parts  of  the  country,  the  West 
Indies,  &c. 

Wethersfield  was  one  of  the  three  earliest  «^/  ttle- 
ments  made  by  wnite  men  in  Connecticut :  or  i.her 
it  may  strictly  claim  the  precedence  of  all,  for  altl.»M  gh 
houses  were  first  built  here,  as  well  as  at  Hartford  and 
Windsor,  ir<  1635,  three  or  four  men  came  to  this  place 
the  year  previous,  and  spent  the  v*' inter.     Depredation^ 


rONNECTICUT    STATE    FHISON. 


H'ui 


were  committed  on  their  settlements  for  the  first  few 
years;  but  as  they  were  done  by  the  Pequods,  the 
destruction  of  that  nation  at  Mystic  Fort,  by  Capt. 
Mason,  in  1636,  put  an  end  to  them  entirely,  and  this 
part  of  the  river  was  never  afterward  made  the 
theatre  of  war. 

The  Connecticut  State  Prison. 

The  situation  of  this  institution  is  healthy,  retired, 
and  convenient  to  the  water  and  the  ^reat  road.  It 
was  completed  in  1817 ;  and  is  worthy  of  the  attention 
of  those  who  feel  an  interest  in  the  cond'tion  and  pros- 
pects of  the  unhappy  inmates  of  such  edifices.  What 
have  heretofore  been  regarded  as  the  necessary  evils 
of  prisons,  will  here  be  found  g^reatly  reduced ;  and, 
in  many  respects,  even  with  regard  to  the  prisoners, 
converted  into  benefits. 

The  modern  improved  principles  of  prison  discipline 
have  nowhere  produced  so  sudden  and  so  beneficial 
a  change  as  in  the  state  of  Connecticut.  An  old  cop- 
per mine  at  Granby  was  for  many  years  the  State 
rrison,  and  was  conducted  on  the  old  and  vicious 
system.  Here  the  Auburn  system  has  been  established, 
with  some  few  deviations. 

The  whole  is  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Pilsbury,  a 
man  of  firmness,  judgment,  and  humanity.  The  men 
are  brought  out  to  their  work  at  signals  given  by  the 
bell.  They  lodge  in  solitary  cells,  and  are  not  per- 
mitted to  converse  together  while  at  work.  They 
take  their  food  in  their  cells,  and  when  going  to  and 
from  work  or  prayers,  are  oblig<;d  to  march  with  the 
'"ck  step.  Thev  are  to  be  chiefly  employed  in  brick- 
making.  No  blows  are  allowed  to  oe  given  by  the 
officers  except  in  self-defence. 

The  smitns'  fires  are  supplied  with  Lehigh  (Penn- 
sylvania) coal  for  fuel ;  and  part  of  the  heat  is  con- 
ducted away  in  pipes  to  warm  the  apartments.  The 
cells  are  furnished  with  comfortable  beds  and  bed 


'iU 


KuuTE  ui»  co>^i:c"ncvT  lavun. 


clothes,  and  a  Bible  for  each.  They  are  ranged  iti 
rows,  and  the  keeper?  can  look  into  them  through 
grated  doors ;  at  the  same  time  the  prsoners  are  not 
able  to  converse  with  each  other.  The  effects  of  evil 
communication,  so  much  and  so  baneiully  cherished  in 
our  old  prisons,  are  thus  effectually  prevented.  Nei- 
ther officers  nor  convicts  are  allowed  to  use  ardent 
spirits.  The  inmates  are  kept  clean  and  comfortably 
clad;  and  while  shut  up  from  society,  whose  laws 
)  have  infringed,  they  are  not  debased  and  rendered 
li.  i  vicious  and  dangerous  by  bad  example  or  evil 
counsel ;  but  are  usefully  and  healthfully  employed, 
instructed, invited  to  return  to  virtue  and  respectability, 
and  consigned  for  a  large  portion  of  the  time  to  soli- 
tude and  undisturbed  reflection. 

HARTFORD. 

huS' — The  City  Hotel,  (by  J.  Morgan,)  and  the 
United  States  Hotel,  (by  H.  Morgan,)  are  two  of  the 
best  houses  in  the  country. 

This  is  the  semi-capital  of  th'  state,  and  a  place  of 
considerable  business,  as  well  as  one  of  the  great 
points  at  which  the  principal  roads  concentrate.  No 
fewer  than  ten  weekly  papers  are  published  in  this 
city. 

The  Charter  Oak. — In  the  lower  part  of  the  town, 
in  the  street  which  runs  east  from  the  south  church,  is 
the  ancient  and  respectable  seat  of  the  VVyllys  family, 
who  were  among  the  early  settlers  of  Hartford,  and 
have  made  a  conspicuous  figure  in  the  history  of  the 
state,  as  well  as  ot  the  town,  by  supplying  the  Secre- 
tary's office  for  a  long  course  of  time.  This  place  is 
now  owned  by  Mr.  Bulkley,  and  has  undergone  con- 
siderable changes.  The  principal  object  of  curiosity 
here  is,  however,  the  fine  old  oak,  which  stands  on  the 
street  in  front.  It  is  said  to  have  been  a  forest  tree 
before  the  land  was  cleared,  yet  it  appears  as  firm  and 
vigorous  as  ever.    In  a  hole  in  its  trutjk  was  hidden 


^iLiy^ 


ilAKTFOItli. 


.2t;.j 


ce  of 
reat 
No 
this 


con- 
iosity 
n  the 

tree 
I  and 


the  charter  of  the  .colony,  when  Sir  Edmund  Andross 
sent  to  demand  it  in  1687  ;  and  there  it  remained  for 
some  y^irs. 

This  interesting  document  is  still  preserved  in  the 
office  of  the  Secretary  of  the  state. 

The  Asylum  for  ike  Education  of  the  Deaf  and 
Dumb  is  about  a  mile  west  of  the  town,  on  Tower 
Hill.  It  was  the  earliest  institution  of  the  kind  in 
America,  and  is  under  the  direction  of  a  board  of  di- 
rectors, who  publish  annual  reports  of  its  condition. 
Mr.  Gallaudet,  a  gentleman  who  was  sent  to  Europe 
to  qualify  himself  for  the  purpose,  is  principal ;  and 
Mr.  Le  Clerc,  a  favourite  pupil  of  the  Abbe  Sicard  of 
Paris,  occupies  the  next  station.  He  is  a  man  of  su- 
perior talents,  although  deaf  and  dumb. 

The  principal  building  is  large,  ornamented  with 
pilasters,  and  surrounded  by  a  garden  and  pleasant 
grounds.  The  house  of  the  superintendant  is  near  by, 
and  the  whole  enjoys  a  fine  situation,  with  a  command- 
ing prospect  and  a  healthy  neighbourhood. 

The  stranger  will  receive  uncommon  gratification, 
from  a  visit  to  this  benevolent  institution  on  the  days 
appointed  for  the  admission  of  visiters.  The  deaf  and 
dumb  are  generally  remarkable  for  close  observation, 
readiness  of  apprehension,  an  eager  thirst  for  know- 
ledge, and  a  very  retentive  recollection ;  and,  as  all 
their  instruction,  being  communicated  through  the 
sight,  can  be  obtained  only  by  the  strictest  attention, 
and  the  abstraction  of  the  mind  from  every  other 
subject,  the  appearance  of  a  class  absorbed  m  their 
lesson  is  calculated  to  produce  feelings  of  an  unusual 
and  highly  interesting  character. 

Every  deaf  and  dumb  person  soon  forms  a  language 
of  natural  signs,  by  which  he  is  able  to  communicate 
the  most  necessary  ideas  on  first  arriving  at  the  Asylum. 
He  is  then  taught  the  alphabet  in  use  here,  which  is 
made  by  the  fingers  of  one  hand ;  after  which  the 
names  of  visible  objects  are  easily  spelled,  and  the 
order  of  their  letters  committed  to  memory.    Absent 


^^i^ij^iMi   wr.ii 


iil,^iliI|IJiW  I 


^Ot) 


KOIJTE    CJt»   CO^iiNECnCLT    11IVJ3U. 


objects  and  abstract  ideas  are  communicated  by  many 
ingenious  devices,  which  it  is  impossible  here  to  de- 
scribe ;  and  ar^>itrary  si^ns  are  aaopted  to  represent 
such  as  may  require  tliem.  Definitions  are  very  ex- 
tensively resorted  to;  and  they  are  always  of  the 
•  most  strictly  loje:ical  character.  Indeed,  the  whole 
system  is  one  of  the  most  complete  and  beautiful  of 
the  kind  ever  formed  on  philosophical  principles. 

The  number  of  scholars  is  about  130.  Some  of 
them  are  supported  by  a  fund  belonging:  to  the  insti- 
tution, and  others  by  the  states  of  Massachusetts, 
New-Hampshire,  &c.  Similar  institutions  exist  in  the 
city  and  state  of  New-York,  Philadelphia,  &c.  and 
one  has  latel3r  been  provided  for  in  Kentucky. 

The  Hopkins* s  Grammar  School,  which  nas  been 
recently  much  enlarged,  is  in  the  lower  part  of  the 
town. 

The  Retreat  for  the  Insane  is  a  little  south  of  the 
city,  and  makes  a  handsome  appearance,  be  ins:  a  stone 
building  150  feet  long  and  50  wide,  the  wings  having 
three  stories,  and  the  main  building  four,  ft  is  capa- 
hh  of  containing  about  50  patients,  and  is  warmed  by 
flues.  The  grounds  connected  with  the  institution 
include  about  17  acres* 

Miss  Beecher^s  School  jusily  enjoys  a  very  high  repu- 
tation. 

Washington  College  is  situated  west  of  the  main 
street,  In  the  south  part  of  the  town.  It  is  an  episco- 
pal institution,  and  has  at  present  two  stone  build- 
ings erected:  one  for  the  students,  150  feet  long,  four 
stories  high,  with  accommodations  for  96  pupils ;  and 
a  chapel,  which  has  also  rooms  for  recitation,  the 
library,  &c.  The  college  bills  are  j^52  50  jper  annum 
in  all ;  and  the  students  board  in  private  families  at 
the  rate  of  Jl  50  per  week. 

Fourteen  acres  of  land  belong  to  the  institution,  part 
of  which  are  devoted  to  the  garden  with  its  green-house. 

A  large  episcopal  school  has  recently  opened  for 
young  ladies  near  this  institution. 


TUAVELLI^G   IN   N£W-£x\6LANi>. 


2^1 


[Montevideot  the  seat  of  Daniel  Wadsworth,  Esq. 
enjoys  a  charming  situation  on  a  mountain  nine  miles 
westward. 

Tariffville  is  a  little  manufacturing  place  several 
miles  north  of  that  spot,  near  a  romantic  scene  on 
Farminffton  river,  where  it  parses  through  the  moun- 
tain.    Here  is  a  carpet  manufactory.] 

Remarks  to  the  Tkaveller  at  Hartfobd. 

From  Hartford  there  are  stage  coaches  running  in  va- 
rious directions ;  norths  one  on  each  side  of  Connecticut 
River;  north-east^  to  Boston;  east,  to  Providence; 
aoiUhy  to  New-Haven  and  New-York  (hesides  the  daily 
steamboats  to  the  latter  place);  west,  to  Litchfield 
and  Poughkeepsie  and  north-west  to  Albany. 

The  road  to  Boston  leads  through  Stafford  Springs, 
and  Worcester,  but  is  otherwise  very  uninteresting  and 
quite  hilly.  There  are  two  routes  to  Boston,  which 
separate  at  Tolland,  and  meet  again  15,miles  from  that 
capital.  On  the  new  road,  (which  is  shorter,)  a  coach 
goes  through  every  day — travelling  from  3  A.  M.  till 
6  P.M. 

Stafford  Springs,  (26  miles  from  Hartford)  is  in  a 
romantic  region.  Tolland  17  m.  Springs  9,  Stur- 
bridge  16,  &c. 

The  traveller  in  New-England  is  advised  to  take  the 
route  up  Connecticut  river,  which  is  the  most  fertile, 
wealthy,  and  beautiful  tract  of  the  country  ;  and  to  re- 
turn by  the  way  of  Boston  and  Providence.  This  is 
the  route  we  propose  to  pursue  ;  but  the  traveller  can 
vary  from  it  as  he  pleases.  He  will  find  such  informa- 
tion as  this  little  volume  is  able  to  afford  him,  by  refer- 
ring to  the  Index. 

The  fertility  of  the  meadows  in  the  Connecticut  Val- 
ley is  almost  proverbial ;  Smd  after  what  the  stranger 
has  seen  of  its  banks  at  Middletown  and  Hartford,  he 
will  learn  with  gratification  that  neither  the  soil  nor  the 
beauty  of  the  cultivation  degenerates  for  several  hun- 


268 


R«UT£   UP  CONNECTICUT   RIVUK. 


dred  miles  northward.  The  whole  country  is  thickly 
populated;  neat  and  beautiful  villages  are  met  wit n 
at  intervals  of  a  few  miles ;  and  the  general  intel- 
ligence derived  from  universal  education  gives  an  ele- 
vated aspect  to  society.  The  accommodations  for 
travellers  are  generally  very  comfortable,  and  some- 
times uncommonly  good  and  elegant ;  the  scenery  is 
ever  new  and  varying ;  many  places  have  traits  ot  in- 
terest in  their  history  ;  and  the  communication  is  easy, 
from  many  points  ot  the  route,  with  the  principal  places 
on  the  east  and  west.  Besides  all  this,  tne  roads  are  pe- 
culiarly fine,  for  they  are  generally  run  along  the  river's 
bank,  which  is  almost  without  exception  level  and  plea- 
sant, and  formed  of  a  soil  well  fitted  to  the  purpose. 

The  western  side  of  the  river  is  generally  to  be  pre- 
ferred; but  as  there  are  good  roads  on  both  sides,  and 
some  villages  and  otherobjects  worthy  of  eoual  notice 
on  the  eastern  shore,  and  good  ferries  or  briages  are  to 
be  met  with  every  few  miles,  it  will  be  agreeable  oc- 
casionally to  cross  and  recross.  Those  who  travel 
along  the  course  of  the  Connecticut  twice,  would  do 
well  to  go  up  on  one  side  and  return  on  the  other. 
This  is  the  most  direct  route  to  the  White  Hills  or 
White  Mountains  of  New-Hampshire. 

The  improvement  of  the  navigation  of  Connecticut 
river  above  Hartford  has  been  seriously  contemplated, 
on  a  combined  system,  and  the  legislatures  of  Vermont 
and  Massachusetts  have  consented  to  a  uniform  plan. 
Several  of  the  principal  falls  have  been  canallecl  and 
locked  for  boats  ft)r  a  number  of  years  ;  and  they  might 
be  made  to  serve  on  the  line.  The  first  part  of  the  na- 
vigation (that  is,  from  Hartford  to  Springfield  and  North- 
ampton) chiefly  engages  attention  at  jjresent ;  and  it 
is  not  improbable  that  the  traveller  will  have  an  op- 
portunity to  gratify  himself  with  a  pleasant  passage  in 
a  steamboat  even  as  far  as  flie  latter  place  in  1830.  A 
canal  has  been  made  at  Enfield  Falls,  6  miles  in  length, 
in  the  bed  of  the  river,  with  three  locks,  of  a  sufficient 
breadth  to  admit  steam  towboat?. 


AMLKICAN    HISTORICAL   SOCIETV:. 


2G\i 


The  Steamboat  Blanchardy  built  at  Springfield  for 
this  navigation,  measures  30  tons,  has  two  cabins  and 
an  engine  of  about  20  horse  power,  [t  draws  scarcely  a 
foot  of  water,  but  moves  with  such  power  that  in  1828 
it  went  up  the  falls  at  South  Hadley  at  a  rapid  rate. 
The  scenery  on  this  route  will  be  found  very  pleasing. 

Those  who  go  to  Boston  will  pass  through  Worcester. 

Worcester  is  one  of  the  finest  villages  in  New -Eng- 
land, llie  Worcester  CoalMinct  which  is  at  a  distance 
from  the  road,  is  likely  to  be  worked  to  a  considerable 
extent.  The  vein  is  considered  as  connected  with  that 
on  Rhode  Island.  It  is  anthracite  ;  and  if  its  quality 
should  justify  the  opinions  which  have  been  expressed, 
it  cannot  fail  to  prove  highly  valuable,  both  for  home 
use  and  for  transportation  by  the  canal .  There  is  a  deep 
cut  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  leading  to  a  horizontal  shaft 
which  has  been  carried  in  some  distance.  The  country 
around  it  is  rich  and  variegated,  and  the  dwellings 
have  an  air  of  elegance  which  does  great  credit  to  the 
taste  as  well  as  the  wealth  of  its  inhabitants.  Brick 
is  extensively  used  in  building.  Penknives  are  manu- 
factured here  of  fine  quality.  The  courthouse,  bank, 
&LC.  stand  on  the  principal  street ;  and  east  of  it  the 
county  house  and  the  building  of  the 

AmERKJAN    HiSTORirAL   SOCIETY. 

This  is  an  institution  formed  by  Mr.  Isaiah  Thomas, 
many  years  a  printer  in  this  place,  for  the  truly  im- 
portant purpose  of  preserving  every  thing  relating  to 
the  history,  traditions,  &c.  of  the  country.  He  has 
made  it  a  donation  of  his  valuable  library,  between  7 
and  8000  volumes,  with  many  files  of  newspapers ;  and 
built  at  his  own  expense  the  handsome  edifice  in  which 
it  is  deposited.  ]Vlany  interesting  curiosities  have  also 
been  collected  here  from  all  parts  of  the  country,  but 
the  institution  has  not  funds  to  support  a  keeper,  and 
the  cabinet  has  not  (unlens,  perhaps,  recently)  been 
opened  to  the  public.    Th,  building  cost  about  $8000, 


'210 


KOUTE    UP   CONNECTICUT    KIVKK 


For  the  Blackstone  Canal  which  connects  this  place 
with  Providence,  see  Index. 

Sutton^  Worcester  Co.  There  is  a  remarkable  chasm 
in  the  rocks  in  this  place,  at  a  distance  from  the  road, 
which  appears  to  have  been  produced  by  sonie  tre- 
mendous convulsion  in  the  earth.  It  appears  like  'a 
wild  and  broken  ravine,  half  a  mile  long,  enclosed  on 
each  side  by  irregular  walls  of  granite,  rising  to  a 
height  of  about  115  feet  perpendicular,  and  so  near 
as  to  threaten  the  visiter  who  explores  the  place  be- 
low. The  opening  is  only  from  75  to  100  feet  wide  ; 
and  the  opposite  masses  of  rock  correspond  as  if  for- 
cibly torn  asunder,  as  they  doubtless  have  been.  On 
the  brow  of  one  of  the  precipices  is  a  mass  of  granite 
estimated  to  weigh  5000  tons.  The  depth  is  so  great, 
and  the  shelter  from  the  sun  so  entire  in  many  places, 
that  ice  may  be  found  at  almost  any  season  of  the  year. 

Watchusett  Hills,  16  miles  W.  N.  VV.  of  Worcester, 
and  62  VV.  by  N.  of  Boston,  are  estimated  at  nearly 
3000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  ascended  by  an  easy 
path.  The  spectator  looks  down  on  a  surrounding 
4cene  of  wooded  mountains,  below  which  are  ponos 
and  farms,  and  a  view  over  cultivated  and  inhabited 
regions. 

[From  Worcester  to  Leicester,  5  miles ;  East  Brook- 
field,  7 ;  Brooktield,  3  ;  Ware  Factory  Village,  5  ; 
Belchertown,  10  ;  Northampton,  15.] 

Route  up  Connecticut  River. 

Leaving  Hartford, 

The  State  Arsenal*  is  seen  on  the  right-hand,  a  mile 
from  the  city ;  and  many  pleasant  views  are  enjoyed. 

*  The  Quarter-Master  General  reported]  that  there  were  in  the  arse- 
nal, in  1828,  4857  niusHets  purchased  by  the  state,  together  with  3927 
muskets  and  150  rifles,  with  the  proper  accoutrements,  received  from 
the  United  States.  According  to  the  last  regular  returns,  there  were  in 
the  hands  of  the  militia,  but  not  owned  by  the  state,  upwards  of  13,000 
muskets  and  rifles  flt  for  service,  which,  with  those  in  the  arsenal,  are 
nearly  equal  to  the  whole  number  of  the  infantry.      ^  .  _, 


Ml'KINUFlKLU. 


271 


[East  Hartford,  opposite  Hartford,  has  a  sandy  soil, 
hut  the  street,  as  well  as  that  of  Cast  Windsor,  next 
north  of  it,  is  shaded  with  rows  of  fine  elms.  The  road 
crosses  Podunk  Brook  by  a  small  bridge,  about  four 
miles  from  Martford,  on  the  north  bank  of  which,  on 
the  left-hand,  was  once  the  fort  of  the  powerful  tribe 
of  Podunk  Indians,  who  had  their  settlements  on  this 
winding  stream,  and  some  of  their  broken  implements 
are  occasionally  found  in  the  soil.  The  nation  was  so 
powerful,  that  Uncas,  Sachem  of  the  Mehicans,  was 
uiice  daunted  by  the  show  of  their  force,  although  he 
had  marched  to  attack  them  with  his  aniiv,  and  after- 
ward chose  to  intimidate  them  by  the  following  stra- 
tagem :  he  sent  one  of  his  Indians  to  burn  a  Pequod 
wigwam,  in  the  night,  near  the  fort,  who  then  flea,  as 
lie  was  directed,  leaving  some  Mohawk  arms  on  the 
ground.  This  made  the  Pequods  believe  that  that 
nation  had  leagued  with  Uncas,  according  to  an  inti- 
mation he  had  before  given,  and  they  immediately  sued 
for  peace. 

Bissel's  tavern,  8  miles  from  Hartford.  In  going 
to  the  ferry,  the  road  passes  the  Bissel  farm,  one  of 
the  finest  in  the  country.] 

WiNDSOll. 

It  has  been  mentioned  before  that  this  place  was 
settled  as  early  as  1C35.  A  few  months  after  the 
building  of  the  fort,  ^jirobably  a  blockhouse,)  the 
Dutch  garrison  at  Hartford  made  a  secret  march  against 
it,  expecting  to  take  it  by  surprise  ;  but  on  arrivmg  at 
tl)H  place  they  found  reason  to  give  up  their  enter- 
prise, and  returned  without  firing  a  gun.  The  country 
was  formerly  very  populous  in  Indians,  the  six  square 
miles  of  which  the  town  was  formed,  and  which  ex- 
tended on  both  sides  of  the  river,  containing  ten  sepa- 
rate sachemdoms,  or  petty  Indian  tribes. 

There  is  a  school  established  in  this  town  on  the 
Fellenberg  plan,  in  which  agriculture  is  taught  both 


JiOtlE   UP  CONNl'XTICLr   ]aV£l(. 


theoretically  and  practically»  a  good  farm  adjoinint?  it 
being  open  to  the  examination  and  experiments  of  the 
students. 

The  seat  of  the  late  Chief  Justice  Oliver  Ellsworth 
stands  on  the  east  side  of  the  street,  above  the  town* 
nine  miles  above  Hartford.  It  is  distinguished  by  co- 
lumns, and  surrounded  by  trees.  He  was  born  in  a 
house  opposite.  He  was  in  Europe  as  minister  for  the 
United  States  to  France. 

After  turning  a  corner  a  little  beyond  this  place,  the 
new  road  runs  north  by  a  tavern,  while  the  old  ones 
across  a  sand  plain,  keeps  straight  on.  The  former  i« 
recommended,  as  it  passes  for  several  miles  along  the 
bank  of  Conned  icut  River. 

Warehouse  Point,  in  Enfield,  is  seen  on  the  east  side. 
Here  vessels  are  built,  and  the  place  car  '<?s  on  a  little 
trade.  There  is  a  Shaker  settlemei  *  about  600 
persons,  5  or  6  miles  from  Enfield.  Mt-ooiti.  Andrews 
&  Thompson's  Carpet  Manufactory  is  at  Thomp- 
sonville. . 

The  Canal  of  6  miles  to  pass  the  falls  below  thi^ 
place,  was  spoken  of  at  Hartford, 


SUFFIELD 


is  a  very  pleasant  town  about  a  mile  west  of  the  road, 
and  has  a  good  inn,  and  a  mineral  spring  in  its  vicinity, 
which  has  been  the  resort  of  considerable  company. 
The  village  street  runs  along  the  ridge  of  a  long  and 
beautiful  hill,  with  neat  houses  and  white  fences  on 
both  sides,  and  the  home  lots  sloping  east  and  west  to- 
wards the  low  ground.  Some  of  the  houses  are  lai^c 
and  elegant. 

Suffield  S/)rings.  About  a  mile  south-west  of  the 
street  is  a  mineral  spring  of  slightly  sulphureous  qua- 
lities. A  house  has  been  built  there  about  20  years, 
which  has  accommodations  for  50  persons,  with  baths 
of  different  descriptions.    The  spring  is  in  swampy 


8i'Ulx\(JFli^:LI). 


the 

orth 
own< 
^  co- 
in a 
31  the 

e,  the 
I  one, 
mer  is 
ng  the 

5t  side, 
a  little 
mt  600 
ndrews 
rhomp- 

ow  thia 


le  road, 
ricinity, 
)mpany. 
)ng  and 
tnces  on 
west  to- 
ire  large 

kt  of  the 
[ous  qua- 
]0  years, 
ith  baths 
fswam^ 


land,  and  its  qualities  are  considered  valuable,  par- 
ticularly in  cases  of  cutaneous  disorders.  The  place 
is  pleasant,  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  rural  scene,  with  a 
pretty  flower  ^.irden,  he.  calculated  to  niider  it  an 
njifreeable  resort,  which  it  will,  no  doubt,  in  due  time 
become. 

If  it  is  intended  to  stop  for  the  nig:ht  within  a  few 
miles,  the  best  inn  is  the  Columbian  Motel,  at  Spring- 
field, on  the  east  side  ol  the  river.  To  reach  it  in 
going  north,  turn  otf  to  the  right  through  the  meadows, 
yome  tinie  after  passing  VVcstfield  Kiver,  which  will 
lead  directly  to  the  iSpringlield  bridge.  This  is  sub- 
?;tanlialiy  built,  and  well  protected  by  a  roof. 

Spriisgfield. 

Columbian  Hotel,  Stage  coaches  run  north,  south, 
and  to  Boston  and  Albany. 

This  is  a  flourishing  town,  standing  at  the  foot  of  a 
high  hill,  the  side  ol  which  is  ornamented  with  fine 
buildings,  the  residences  of  some  of  the  wealthier  in- 
habitants, and  the  top  occupied  by  the  United  States' 
Armory.  This  establishment  occupies  a  large  space 
of  ground,  and  commands  a  fine  view.  The  build- 
ings conlainir»g  the  workshops  tor  manut'acturing  small 
arms,  the  arsenal,  barracks,  &c.  are  surrounded  by  a 
high  wall  ;  and  the  habitations  of  the  workmen,  seen 
in  several  neighbouring  streets,  are  generally  neat; 
houses  with  small  gardens.  Some  ol  the  principal 
buildings  within  the  walls  were  burnt  about  four  years 
ago,  but  have  since  been  rebuilt,  viz.  three  buildings^ 
each  120  feet  long,  one  of  which  is  a  store  house  of 
anus.  Access  may  be  obtained  ;  but  here  is  not  room 
to  ^ive  a  particular  description  of  the  establishment, 
which  bears  a  general  reseniblance  to  others  ol  this 
kind  in  the  country,  although  it  is  the  largest  in  size. 
The  number  of  workmen  required,  which  is  about 
260,  has  a  favourable  eft'ect  on  the  business  and  pros- 
perity of  the  place.     About  13.000  muskets  are  mad*^; 

A  a 


w. 


274 


nOUTE   UP   CONNECTICUT   KIVKK. 


here  annually^  or  60  a  day.  There  were  manufactured 
here,  in  1829, 16,500  muskets.  Expenditure,  $190,000, 
including  repairs,  &c.  *J'he  average  cost  of  a  musket 
is  now  ^10  6r>.  Since  the  establishment  was  formed, 
in  l'J'36,  296,^ S9  muikets  have  been  manufactured. 
The  njanufacioi  ies  on  Mill  river,  a  little  south  of  the 
armory,  are  various  and  well  worthy  of  observation,  at 
least,  m  passing.  A  road  that  runs  alon^  the  bank, 
passes  a  number  of  flour  milis,  &.c.  belonging  to  indi- 
viduals, besides  the  Upper,  Middle,  and  Lower  Water 
Shops,  connected  with  the  armory.  There  are  three 
dams  of  hewn  :3tone,  and  the  buildings  in  plan  and 
construction,  are  well  calculated  for  service  and  dura- 
bility. The  water  shops  contain  in  all  18  water 
wheels,  10  trip  hammers,  28  forges,  9  coal  houses, 
and  have  connected  with  them  several  houses  and 
stores. 

The  town  is  ornamented  with  many  fine  elms  and 
other  trees ;  and  there  :ire  two  very  handsome 
churches,  a  High  School,  &c.  It  was  originally  con- 
sidered within  the  limits  ol  Connecticut  Colony,  but 
at  length  incorporated  with  Massachusetts,  A  tribe 
of  Indians  lived  for  some  years  on  Fort  Hill ;  but 
being  won  over  to  King  Philip's  party,  in  1675,  they 
assumed  a  hostile  air,  tired  uF»on  some  of  the  inhabit- 
ants who  were  going  to  their  fort,  and  burnt  a  part  of 
the  town. 

In  1786,  during  the  rebellion  of  Shays,  he  attacked 
the  armory,  at  the  head  of  a  strci^g  party  of  undisci- 
plined men.  Gen.  Shepard,  who  had  command  at  the 
place,  attempted  to  dissuade  them  from  their  attempt, 
and  finally  drove  them  off  by  firing  twice.  The  first 
shot,  over  their  heads,  dispersed  the  raw  troops,  and 
the  second  drove  off  the  reiiiijinder,  who,  being  about 
200  revolutionary  soldiers,  did  not  desist  until  they  had 
lost  a  few  of  their  men.  This  was  the  first  check  the 
insurrection  received,  which  was  put  down  without 
much  subsequent  trouble. 

Springfield  Factory  Village  is  a  new  and  very  ex 


SOUTH   HADLEY   FALLS. 


273 


tensive  manufacturing  place.  It  is  on  the  Chicopec 
River,  and  a  stage  coach  passes  through  it  every  other 
day,  on  the  road  to  Belcnertown.  The  capital  em- 
ployed here  in  1828  was  ^500,000.  Tl»e  buildings 
brick,  2  stories,  and  about  9000  yards  of  cotton  were 
made  daily  in  all. 

Wilbrahnm,  7or8  miles  west  from  Springfield,  con- 
tains a  Westeyan  Academy.  The  pupils  are  instructed 
in  agriculture  on  a  farm,  and  in  the  mechanic  arts  in 
a  shop,  belonging  to  the  institution.  There  are 
teachers  in  various  branches  of  literature,  science,  and 
the  arts. 

West  Sprin^eld  has  a  fine  street,  shaded  with  large 
elms,  and  containing  some  handsome  houses.  It  is  26 
miles  from  Hartford,  and  about  17  miles  from  North- 
ampton. There  is  a  fine  view  from  the  road  on  the 
brow  of  a  hill  a  liftle  north  of  the  town,  near  a  church; 
which  overlooks  the  river  and  an  extent  of  country  on 
•each  side,  with  Mounts  Tom  and  Hoi  joke  in  front. 

South  Hadley  Falls. 

The  village  and  locks  are  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river. 

The  whole  fall  of  the  river  at  South  Hadley  is  52 
feet,  but  at  the  lower  falls  only  ii2.  There  is  a  canal 
2i  miles  long  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  cut  through 
a  slate  rock  tor  a  considerable  distance,  and  in  some 
places  very  deep.  The  dam  is  8  feet  high.  There 
are  five  locks  near  the  tavern,  and  one  above.  The 
toll  here  is  90  cents.  There  is  a  ferry  lu^re,  which  is 
safe,  but  the  water  runs  verysvvifMy. 

For  several  miles  before  reaching  Mount  Tom,  the 
road  runs  along  the  bank  of  the  river,  showing  its  banks, 
in  many  places,  roughened  with  rocks.  Its  channel  is 
in  one  p!:<ce  crossed  by  the  dam,  which  turns  the  water 
into  the  South  Hadley  Canal.  The  river  makes  an 
abrupt  turn  some  miles  above,  running  between  Mount 
Tom  on  the  south  and  Mount  Holyoke  on  the  north  ; 


276  KOul-E   UP   CONNECTICUT  BIVEK. 

and  wtien  the  scene  opens  again,  it  discloses  a  charm- 
ing and  extensive  plain,  formed  of  the  meadows  on 
the  river's  bank,  and  evidently  once  the  site  of  a 
lai^e  lake,  when  the  water  was  restrained  by  the  bar- 
rier between  the  mountains.  This  plain  is  one  of  the 
richest,  and  by  far  the  most  ex^onsive  and  beautiful  on 
the  river. 

Northampton. 

Hotels.  There  is  a  splendid  hotel  here.  Warner 
also  keeps  a  very  good  house. 

This  town  is  situated  at  the  west  side  of  the  plain, 
a  mile  from  the  river,  and  is  a  favourite  place  of  re- 
sort for  travellers  ;  as  it  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
of  the  New-England  Tillages,  and  is  surrounded  by  a 
charming  country,  and  lies  near  to  Mount  Holyote, 
which  commands  a  view  of  the  whole.  The  streets 
are  irregular,  but  some  of  them  shady  and  delightful 
in  summer^  being  also  ornamented  with  many  neat 
houses.  It  is  a  place  of  considerable  business ;  and 
the  soil  makes  valuable  farms. *^ 

Round  Hill  is  a  beautiful  eminence  just  west  of  the 
town,  where  is  the  school  of  Messrs.  Cogswell  and 
Bancroft,  for  the  education  of  fjoys.  The  branches  of 
learning  taught  thf^ve  are  mimerous,  and  there  nre  in- 
structers  for  the  French,  Spanish,  and  German  lan- 
guages. Great  attention  is  paid  to  the  hours  oi'  recre- 
ation as  well  as  of  study,  and  the  pupils  aje  rarely  to 
be  seen  out  of  the  precmcts  of  the  school.    The  place 


*  CantU.— Mr.  Kurd's  estimate  of  the  whole  expense  of  the  Haujijshirc 
and  Hampden  Canal  is  given  as  follows: 

Canal, $204,210 

Feeders, 44,856 

Cost  of  lands  and  contingent  expense,       .  18,500 

Total  expense,  $267,560 

The  length  of  the  canal  is  29J  miles,  divided  into  56  sections  of  IfiS 
jfods  each.  Whm  finished  it  witl  Iw  partionlarly  described  in  a  fufniu 
fdUion. 


SOtTHAMrTON   LEAD   MINK. 


277 


itself  is  very  pleasant :  commanding  fine  air,  fine 
scenes,  and  perfect  retirement. 

On  the  eastern  declivity  of  the  hill  stands  the  house 
of  the  Stoddard  family,  an  ancestor  of  which  was  a 
man  of  great  talents  and  influence  in  this  part  of  the 
country.  On  the  east  side  of  the  main  street,  just 
south  of  the  brook,  is  the  house  of  the  late  Governor 
Strong. 

There  is  a  large  Button  Manufactory  in  this  vi- 
cinity. 

The  Lead  Mine. 


les  of 
re  in- 

lan- 
«cre- 
ily  tc 

)Iace 


of  lfi8 
Ifiituvu 


In  Southampton,  at  the  distance  of  8  miles  from  this 
place,  is  a  lead  mine,  which  will  he  regarded  with  in- 
terest by  the  curious  and  scientific.  A  considerable 
part  of  the  road  to  it  is  good,  and  the  place  is  wild 
and  rough.  The  following  extract  from  the  Journal 
of  Science  and  the  Arts,  Turnishes  all  necessary  in- 
formation on  the  subject. 

"This  vein  declines  or  15  Ov^grees  from  a  per- 
pendicular, is  6  or  8  feei  in  diameter,  and  traverses 
granite  and  other  primitive  rock  II  has  been  ob- 
served at  intervals  from  Montgutnety  to  Ha  field,  a 
distance  of  20  miles.  In  Southampton  it  has  been  ex- 
plored many  rods  in  lerigth,  to  the  depth  of  40  oi  50 
leet ;  and  the  galena,  which  is  the  principal  ore,  has 
been  found  in  masses  from  a  quarter  of  an  inch  to  a 
foot  in  diameter.  At  the  depth  above  mentioned,  the 
water  became  so  abundant  that  it  was  thought  Ivis- 
able  to  abandon  a  perpendicular  explorati(  ■  md  to 
descend  to  the  foot  of  a  hill  on  the  east,  nearly  80 
rods  !rom  the  vein,  and  attempt  a  horizontal  drift,  or 
adit ;  and  ever  since  its  commencement,  seven  or  eight 
years  ago,  the  working  of  the  vein  has  ceased.  The 
rocks  that  have  been  penetrated,  reckoning  from  the 
mouth  of  tht.  drift  inwards,  are  geest,  the  red  and  gray 
slates  of  the  coal  formation,  with  thin  beds  of  coal, 

and  mica  slate,  and  granite,  alternating. 

Aa3 


iw.«i«l  m^^t  |J^BP'»  "H" 


278 


liOUTE    UP   CONNKCTICtT    RIVEK. 


The  mouth  of  this  drift  is  4  or  5  feet  wide,  and 
about  3  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water.  The 
water  is  deep  enough,  the  whole  length  of  it,  to  admit 
the  passaq^e  of  a  loaded  bf)at.  The  person  wishing 
to  explore  this  internal  canal,  must  'he  a  ftirn  at  the 
entrance,  or  Iwat  heavily  wiih  a  sledge  on  the  timbers 
that  support  the  soil  ;  in  10  or  15  minutes,  he  will  per- 
ceive a  gentle  undulation  of  Ihe  water,  and  soon  after, 
a  boat  advancit^  with  lighted  lamps  and  a  rower; 
having  seated  himself  on  the  bottom  of  this  boat,  and 
provided  himself  with  an  additional  garment,  he  is 
prepared  for  his  subterranean  expedition.  If  he  looks 
oacK,  after  having  advanced  several  hu?idred  feet,  the 
light  at  the  entrance  will  appear  diminished  to  the 
size  of  a  candle  ;  and  before  he  reaches  the  extremity, 
it  becomes  invisible.  About  half  way  from  the  en- 
trance to  the  end  of  the  drift,  he  will  pass  a  shaft, 
down  which  a  small  brook  is  turned,  for  the  purpose 
of  aiding  the  ventilator. 

The  miners  do  not  quit  the  drift  when  they  blast, 
but  retire  behind  a  breastwork  thrown  up  for  the 
purpose.  One  man  has  been  an  inmate  of  tnat  dark 
recess  eight  or  ten  years  without  suffering  in  his  health. 

Every  mineralogist  passing  that  way,  will  of  course 
visit  the  drift.  Intelligent  gentlemen,  without  profes- 
sional views,  and  even  ladies,  not  unfrequently  enter 
the  cavity." 

Mount  Holyoke. 

The  ascent  of  this  mountain  has  become  very  fash- 
ionable, perhaps  more  so  than  any  similar  enterprise 
in  this  country,  if  we  except  that  ot  the  Catskill  Moun- 
tains in  New- York.  The  height  is  said  to  be  800 
feet ;  and  there  is  a  good  carnage  road  the  greater 
part  of  the  way  up,  as  veil  as  a  building  of  consider- 
able size  on  the  summit,  for  the  accommodation  ot 
visiters,  who  resort  tl.Uher  every  season,  usually  in 
parties. 


'Xt 


and 
rhe 
Imit 

hing 
t  the 
ibera 

per- 
aiter, 
wer; 
t,  ana 
he  is 

looks 

lo  the 
emity, 
he  en- 
shaft, 
urpose 

r  blast, 

for  the 

t  dark 

health. 

course 

profes- 

enter 


l^' 


fash- 
|e I  prise 
M^  >un- 
Ibe  800 
greater 
)nsider- 
ition  oi 
lally  in 


Til  — ifn'g 


!"lil«ll!IWJP»i!UHWpPlii|  I .  '"'I'-  "W '  ".U,PHP^?IIWW|p" 


<^.'      ipw'P! 


'SWi 


■  * 


<.•#■' 


*t         1^-= 


i|'     Jj. 


■ft-  ■•^"■^^ 


/^. 


^•f 


>i 


!f^ 


-«    '• 


'''^f^k. 


#*    %*V'^, 


\ 


\Z..- 


* 


t 


MOUNT  HOIYOEC. 


279 


There  is  a  short  road  through  the  meadows,  directly 
to  Lyman's  ferry,  at  the  fool  of  the  mountain,  which 
is  furnished  with  a  good  horse-boat.  But  it  may  be 
founi  pleasantpr  to  cross  the  bridece  at  the  upper  end 
of  the  town,  pass  through  Hadley  Meadows,  and  down 
on  the  eastern  bank.  The  path  up  (he  mountain  turns 
off  near  a  sai  ill  old  house,  and  another  opposite  the 
tavern  near  the  U'Ttj,  Aft-T  following  the  latter  to  its 
termination,  you  dis?nount,  secure  your  horses  to  the 
trees,  and  walk  up  a  rude  stone  staircase  on  the  right* 
Refreshments  will  be  found  at  the  house  vvhich  occu- 
pies the  summit ;  and  which  opens  on  both  sides,  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  command  an  uninter  uptj^l  view 
of  the  rich  and  varied  landscape  below.  Those  who 
wish  to  enjoy  the  luxury  of  seeing  day  break  and  the 
sun  rise  over  such  a  scene,  may  find  a  shelter  here  for 
the  night.  There  was  a  remarkable  flood  in  the  river, 
(21  feet,)  in  the  autumn  of  1828,  which  destroyed  build- 
ings, crops,  &c.  to  an  unprecedented  extent. 

South-eastf  the  view  is  less  interesting,  and  may 
therefore  be  first  examined.  The  country  is  undu- 
lating, and  the  soil  generally  poor ;  yet  several  vil- 
laifes  are  discovered  at  a  distance,  particularly  South 
Hadley,  which  lies  immediately  below.  Southwardly 
is  seen  Connecticut  river,  retiring  under  the  shade  of 
Mount  Tom,  whitened  below  by  the  South  Hadley 
Falls  ;  beyond  which  is  the  hill  at  Springfield.  The 
river  makes  several  turns,  and  on  the  horizon  are  two 
very  distant  peaks,  which  are  supposed  to  be  £ast  and 
West  Rocks,  at  New-Haven,  about  70  miles  distant. 

North-east  is  seen  Monadnoc  Mountain  ki  New- 
Hampshire  ;  and  the  view  towards  the  east  is  inter- 
rupted by  the  neighbouring  peaks  ol'  Mount  Holyoke. 

JVorthi  you  look  up  the  charming  valley  of  the  Con- 
necticut ;  bordered  by  distant  ranges  of  hills  and  moun- 
tains, varied  by  a  few  isolated  peaks,  covered  with  the 
richest  coat  of  vegetation,  and  scattered  with  villages 
and  innumerable  farm  houses.  The  river  makes  a 
beautiful  serpentine  course ;  frum  where  it  first  ap- 


*^-«*-,« 


:^80 


ROUTK   UP   CONNECTICUT   KlVEll. 


pears  at  the  foot  of  Sugar  Loaf  Mountain,  and  Mount 
Tobj,*  until  it  reaches  tlie  village  of  Hadley,  which 
lies  in  full  view  ;  and  then  taking  a  bold  sweep  to  the 
west,  and  flowing  4|  miles,  it  returns  to  the  end  of 
the  street,  only  a  mile  distant  from  where  it  first 
meets  it.  The  whole  peninsula  is  rich  and  iertile,  and 
covered  with  cultivated  fields  of  wheat,  corn,  gr  ss, 
&c.  vvilhoui  being  disfigured  by  fences,  according  to 
the  custom  prevalent  hereabouts;  and  is  the  ric-Iiest 
sight  upon  the  river,  particularly  when  viewed  in  con- 
nexion with  the  scene  immediately  below,  where  the 
river  flows  on,  almost  immedinlely  under  our  feet,  and 
the  we^lern  shore  presents  the  extensive  Northamp- 
ton Mea'lows,  a  mile  wide.  Following  the  current 
with  the  eye,  in  the 

West-south'West^  it  forms  a  still  more  remark  <ble  pe- 
ni<nsula,  although  one  of  inferior  size  :  the  Hockanum 
Bend  being  a  turn  measuring  31  miles  in  circuit,  while 
the  isthmus  is  only  46  rods  across,  or  150  yards.  In 
the  compass  ot'  this  view,  Jrom  the  north  to  the  west 
and  soutn,  numerous  village  spires  are  seen,  vvith  level 
fields,  orchards,  and  gardens,  almost  without  number  ; 
and  the  whole  scene  is  so  bounde«i  with  mountainous 
ridges,  as  to  seem  to  justify  the  opinion  ot  geologists, 
who  say  that  it  was  once  covered  with  an  extensive 
lake,  until  the  water  forced  a  passage  between  Mounts 
Tom  and  Holyoke. 

Northampton  is  seen  about  west-north-west,  with 
Round  Hill ;  and  towards  the  right,  the  top  of  Saddle 
Mountain,  in  the  distance.  There  are  also  others  still 
further  north,  particularly  Haystack  and  Bare  Moun- 
tain. 

More  than  30  church  steeples  may  be  counted  here 
by  taking  advantage  of  diffierent  kinds  of  weather. 

♦  In  this  mountain,  fit  a  place  Smiles  north-east  of  Sunderland  village 
is  a  remarkable  cavern,  running  through  the  mountain.  It  is  12  rods  long, 
65  feet  deep,  and  from  2  to  20  feet  wide.  There  is  a  mass  of  pudding 
stone  on  each  side,  which  appear  as  if  they  had  been  rent  apart.  There 
is  an  opening  at  the  top.  A  small  cave  opens  near  by  it,  45  feet  deep,  10 
wWp,  and  130  lone. 


I 


MOUNT    UOLVOKi:. 


2a  I 


In  point  of  history  that  part  of  the  Connecticut 
Valley  immediately  under  the  eye  belongs  to  the 
third  division  of  settlements,  callings  Plymouth  and 
Massachusetts  Bay  the  first ;  Windsor,  Hartford, 
Wethersfield,  &c.,  the  second.  Northampton,  Had- 
ley,  and  Hatfield  were  settled  in  1653,  ana  remained 
the  frontier  posts  in  this  direction  till  after  Philip's 
war,  during  which  they  suffered  severely  from  constant 
alarms,  and  the  loss  of  inhabitants.  The  Indians  who 
had  sold  the  land  on  which  the  towns  were  built,  had 
each  a  spot  assigned  them  within  a  short  distance  of 
the  palisades  with  which  the  new  settlements  were 
surrounded,  and  lived  in  peace  and  good  faith  until 
excited  by  Philip ;  after  which  all  the  towns  were  at 
different  times  attacked  by  them,  and  some  of  them 
repeatedly.  During  the  French  wars,  on  May  13th, 
1704,  the  Indians  fell  upon  a  little  settlement  at  the 
foot  of  Mount  Tom,  and  killed  20  persons,  more  than 
half  of  whom  were  children;  and  a  tradition  states, 
though  without  designating  the  precise  time,  that  a 
captive  woman  was  once  Drought  to  the  top  of  the 
mountain  where  we  stand,  and  scalped. 

Hadley  was  attacked  by  the  Indians  while  the  in- 
habitants were  at  church,  and  was  near  falling  into 
their  hands,  when  a  stranger,  a  venerable  old  man, 
made  his  appearance,  an(f  by  his  active  resistance, 
encouraged  them  to  repel  the  enemy.  It  was  not 
known  at  the  time  who  he  was,  or  whither  he  went ; 
but  there  is  now  little  doubt  that  he  was  Goffe,  one  oi 
king  Charles's  judges,  \vho  was  secreted  for  a  length  of 
time  in  this  town,  and  of  whom  we  have  already  had 
occasion  to  speak  at  New-Haven.  The  remains  of 
his  coffin,  it  is  believed,  were  discovered  a  few  years 
since,  in  the  cellar  wall  of  a  house  near  the  presient 
academy,  which  was  formerly  inhabited  by  one  of  his 
friends.  The  Burning  of  Ueerfield,  we  shall  speak 
of  on  arriving  at  that  town. 

Stage  coaches  run  to  Boston  and  Albany  in  a  day ; 
rind  up  and  down  the  river  daily. 


■WT:P>w^(IHJ|i|Hipp(^Hi^"PW^».»ilHl,wiw^iWi»i 


ROUTE    UP  CONNECTICUT   RIVEK. 


Hadley, 

3  miles.     (See  the  preceding  page.) 

Hatfield, 

One  mile  further,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river. 
This  town  is  much  devoted  to  the  winterinff  of  cattle 
raised  on  the  neighbouring  hilly  country.  The  grass 
IS  very  fine,  and  the  barns  are  large;  which,  with  the 
appearance  of  the  houses,  give  the  place  an  air  of 
substantia]  agricultural  wealth.  The  cattle  are  bought, 
stabled,  and  fatted. 

Amherst 

is  situated  on  elevated  ground,  five  miles  from  Hadley ; 
and  off  the  river  towards  the  north-east. 

Amherst  College. — Although  of  recent  institution,  this 
ranks  among  the  most  respectable  in  New-England. 
The  situation  occupied  by  the  buildings  is  delightful, 
commanding  a  rich,  extensive,  and  varieJ  view,  partly 
over  the  meadows  of  Connecticut  river,  with  moun- 
tains particularly  mentioned  a  tew  pages  back,  seen 
in  different  directions.  The  retired  situation  is  highly 
favourable  to  study  and  good  order,  as  its  elevation 
and  pure  air  are  conducive  to  health.  It  contained 
152  students  in  1826 ;  the  number  who  graduated  in 
1828,  was  40;  and  the  students,  in  1829,  were  211.  The 
president.  Dr.  Humphi  es  is  also  professor  of  mental 
and  moral  Philosopny  and  Divinity.  There  are  six 
other  professors,  and  a  teacher  of  French  and  Spanish, 
a  teacher  of  mathematics,  and  a  tutor  of  Latin  and 
Greek.  A  gymnastic  apparatus  has  lately  been 
added. 

The  Amherst  Academy  is  a  large  private  establish- 
ment for  the  education  of  boys.    It  is  about  three 


i>J::eufieli). 


1>83 


miles  distanl;  the  building  is  elegant,  the  instructers 
are  of  a  high  character,  and  the  svi^tem  is  formed  on 
the  im^iroved  principle.  The  modfern  Greek  pronun- 
ciation has  been  adopted  here  for  the  ancient  language, 
under  the  instruction  of  Mr.  Perdicari,  a  Grecian  by 
birth;  and  this  judicious  example  it  is  hoped  may  be 
followed  in  other  institutions. 

The  Sugar  Loaf  is  an  isolated  hill  of  a  conical 
form,  rising  in  front  as  we  proceed.  A  fine  view  is 
enjoyed  from  the  summit,  where  has  recently  been 
erected  a  house  for  visiters.  Deertield  lies  north  of  it 
about  three  miles  ;  and  the  way  by  which  we  approach 
it,  lies  nearly  along  the  old  road  which  led  thither 
through  the  wilderness,  in  1675,  when  it  was  deserted 
b}^  the  settlers,  and  Capt.  Lothrop  was  despatched, 
with  a  body  of  80  soldiers  and  wagoners,  to  bring  off 
the  grain.  At  the  foot  of  this  mountain  is  the  small 
villnge  of  Bloody  Brook,  (improperl)^  called  Muddy 
Bro()k,)  and  near  the  spot  where  a  bridge  crosses  the 
stream,  Capt.  Lothrop  was  ambushed  by  about  800 
Indians.  The  place  was  then  a  marshy  piece  of 
ground ;  and  some  traces  of  the  road,  which  was 
formed  of  logs,  are  still  to  be  seen,  running  through 
the  fields  without  crossing  at  the  bridge.  The  convoy 
halted  at  this  place ;  and  the  soldiers  were  generally 
engaged  in  gathering  grapes  from  the  vines  which  ran 
on  the  trees,  having  leit  their  muskets  on  the  ground, 
when  the  Indians  tired  upon  them.  Capt.  Lothrop 
gave  orders  that  the  men  should  disperse,  and  fire 
From  behind  the  trees;  but  they  were  all  cut  off  except 
8  or  10.  This  massacre  was  one  of  the  most  calami- 
tous which  ever  occurred  in  New-England,  taken  into 
view  with  the  small  number  of  inhabitants  at  the 
time :  as  the  company  consisted  of  young  men  from 
the  principal  families  in  the  eastern  towns.  There  is 
a  stone  now  lying  near  the  fence,  west  of  the  brook, 
which  was  brought  there  some  years  since  for  a  monu- 
ment, but  not  raised. 

That  part  of  the  meadow  we  yass  through  in  ap- 


^Fl" 


1^84 


KUtTK    \jV   CO-^SbXTWli    IIL\ LAL 


proaching  Decrfiold  was  tlie  scene  of  several  skir- 
rnishes  with  the  Indians  at  different  times,  as  the  place 
was  a  frontier  for  many  years,  althoupfh  it  was  twice 
burned  and  deserted. 

Deerfield. 

In  1704,  which  was  the  period  of  its  last  destruction, 
a  laige  f)odv  ot  Indians,  led  on  by  a  few  Frenchmen 
from  Canacfa,  came  upon  the  town  before  daylight. 
It  was  winter,  and  the  snow  crust  was  strong  enough 
to  bear  them  ;  they  liad  secreted  themselves  on  a  hill 
north-west  from  DeerfieJd,  and  sent  In  a  scout.  The 
houses  were  all  entered  but  one,  the  inhabitants  made 
captives,  and  all,  except  a  few,  taken  off  to  Canada. 
One  of  the  houses  is  standing  at  this  day,  a  little  noitli 
of  the  church ;  and  the  hole  niay  still  be  seen  in  the 
door,  which  the  Indians  hacked  with  their  tomahawks, 
and  then  fired  through,  as  well  as  the  marks  of  several 
bullets  in  the  eastern  room,  one  of  which  went  through 
the  neck  of  a  svoman  and  killed  her.  A  young  man 
and  his  bride  leaped  from  a  window  of  the  chambei 
above  ;  and  though  the  latter  was  unable  to  walk,  in 
consequence  of  spraining  her  ancle,  the  former  fled,  al 
her  ui^ent  request,  and,  meeting  with  some  troops  on 
his  way,  brought  them  up  in  tinie  to  drive  off  the  hi- 
dians,  but  not  to  retake  any  of  the  captives. 

A  house  next  this  was  valiantly  defended  by  seven 
men  ;  and  the  dwelling  of  Mr.  Williams,  the  minister, 
was  taken,  and  he  ancf  his  family  carried  to  Canada. 
Most  ot  the  people  were  ransomed ;  but  a  daughter  of 
Mr.  W.  became  attached  to  the  savage  life,  married  a 
chief,  and  left  children.  Mr.  Williams,  missionary  to 
the  Indians  at  Green  Bay,  was  one  of  her  descendants. 

Some  marks  of  the  old  picket  may  be  traced  in  the 
rear  of  the  house,  which  is  supposed  to  present  the 
same  appearance  as  in  old  time,  excepting  that  the 
kitchen,  cVc  have  since  been  built,  and  the  front  and 
rear  have  been  covcrer^ 


TliUiNDK  8    I'ALLJJ. 


ujyj 


skii- 
placfc 
twice 


iictiop« 
chiiien 
ylight. 
enough 
n  a  hill 
.    'l^he 
[s  made 
Canada. 
,le  north 
[1  in  the 
ahavvks, 
f  several 
through 
ung  man 
chamhei 
walk,  in 
T  fled,  at 
roops  on 
f  the  hv 


There  is  an  academy  in  this  town,  but  it  is  not  in  a 
very  flourishing  condition.  ' 

Last  from  tnis  place,  are  several  spurs  projecting 
from  the  hill,  on  one  of  which  was  formerly  a  fort, 
for  the  protection  of  the  Deerfleld  Indians  against  the 
Mohawks. 

Greenfield^  3  miles.  Here  the  stace  coach  passes 
on  a  road  from  Boston  to  Albany.  '1  ne  countiy  west 
is  highly  picturesque.  Just  south  oi"  the  town,  Deer- 
fleld river  appears  to  have  at  some  period  formed  a 
lake  of  some  extent,  with  an  outlet  towards  the  east, 
where  its  channel  may  be  seen,  with  the  place  of  an 
old  cascade,  and  the  rocks  bored  out  by  the  rushing  of 
the  water.  I'he  channel  now  lies  through  a  deep  cut 
between,  two  hills.  A  High  School,  for  young  ladies, 
was  established  here  in  1828. 

Tumer^s  Falls  are  on  Connecticut  river,  two  or 
three  miles  east  from  Greenfield.  It  is  necessary  to 
leave  the  road  to  see  them  ;  but  they  are  of  consider- 
able height  and  beauty,  and  history  has  rendered  the 
place  memorable,  from  an  important  battle  fought 
there  towards  the  close  of  Philip*s  war.  The  way  by 
which  we  approach  is  nearly  over  the  same  ground, 
where  Capt.  Turner  marchecf,  with  his  body  of  men, 
in  the  year  1676,  when  he  went  to  attack  a  lai^e  body 
of  Indians,  assembled  at  an  Indian  fort,  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  above  the  falls ;  and  by  which  he  also  returned, 
after  a  successful  battle,  pursued  by  his  surviving 
enemies. 

Philip,  having  been  driven  from  the  seacoast  and 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  English  settlements,  by  the 
active  operations  of  Capt.  Church,  Capt.  Mosely,  Capt. 
Wheeler,  &c.,  retired  with  some  of  his  followers  to 
the  Northfield  Indians,  who  held  a  position  on  a  sandy 
hill,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  river.  Here  he  was 
attacked  in  the  night  by  the  troops  under  Capt.  Tur- 
ner. The  English  left  their  horses  on  a  hill,  which 
descends  to  a  brook  emptying  into  the  Connecticut 
below  the  fall::  and  having  mounted  the  opposite 

Bb 


n^^W^!^- 


,TVT7"'  "TTJ  " 


'i8b 


UOVT£   VP   OONNliOTICUT  RlVEK. 


bank,  proct^eded  near  where  the  present  road  lead^, 
and  marched  up  tlie  sandy  hill.  The  place  has  a 
swamp  on  two  sides,  and  tne  river  on  the  fourth.  It 
is,  indeed,  overtopped  by  neighbouring  hills ;  but 
cannon,  of  course,  were  out  of  the  question  in  such  a 
warfare.  The  Indians  had  held  a  least  that  night,  as 
some  of  their  captives  afterward  reported,  ana  were 
generally  asleep,  so  that  the  attack  of  the  white  men 
gave  them  a  panic,  and  they  fled  to  their  boats,  which 
tnev  launched  in  such  haste,  that  many  forgot  their 
paadles,  and  were  cairied  over  the  falls.  The  rest, 
however,  rallied  before  their  enemies  were  out  oi 
their  reach,  and  being  joined  by  some  from  the  island 
below  the  falls,  pursued  and  harassed  them  about  ten 
miles,  to  DeeiHeld.  Bones  are  occasionally  dug  up 
near  the  spot,  and  a  (ew  years  ago  the  remains  of  an 
old  musket,  a  few  silver  coins,  &.  were  discovered 
amon^  the  rocks. 

This  was  the  last  and  most  severe  blow  Philip  re- 
ceived, befort^  he  returned  to  his  native  country  in 
Rhode  Island,  where  he  soon  after  terminated  his 
df'ngerous  life,  and  the  war,  which  brought  so  many 
calamities  upon  New-England. 

Tke  Canal. — A  dam  of  great  height  is  built  at  the 
falls,  to  supply  a  canal,  which  extends  two  or  three 
miles  for  boats  and  rafts.  Some  mills  are  also  esta- 
blished on  the  river's  bank.  The  fall  is  divided  by 
two  rude  rocks,  between  which  the  water  rushes  in 
separate  cataracts;  and  the  scenery  below  is  wild, 
nnd  not  a  little  imposing.  This  is  part  of  the  New- 
Haven  Greenstone  range,  and  there  aie  two  veins  of 
copper  in  the  mountain  :  specimens  of  coal  have  been 
found.  There  is,  however,  no  inn  nearer  than  Green- 
field.] 

Bemardstoiif  8  miles  from  Greenfield. 

Femon. — Within  the  limits  of  this  township,  which 
is  the  first  in  Vermont,  was  once  Fort  Drummer,  one 
of  a  chain  of  forts,  built  for  the  protection  of  the 
country  against  the;  (^inadian  Indians.    The  place  for 


UALrOLK. 


'^87 


some.  ycar«  v.ms  known  on  the  river,  by  the  name  of 
Nnrr»})(»r  One,  being  the  first  of  four  townships. 

i'assin^  through  a  pretty  village,  with  several  mills, 
after  a  few  miles  we  approach  Brattleborougli,  south 
of  which,  east  of  the  road,  is  a  quarry,  which  furnishes 
a  large  quantity  of  slate ;  where  may  be  seen  the 
mode  of  quarrying,  splitting,  shaping,  and  packing  it 
for  transportation. 

Braitlehorough  is  a  very  pleasant  village,  situated 
on  an  elevated  pi  in  above  the  river,  whicn,  since  the 
draining  of  the  old  lake  in  this  place,  has  made  two 
or  three  successive  arches  north  of  the  town,  as  it  has 
gradually  lowered  its  channel  to  the  present  level. 
At  the  bridge,  over  a  small  stream,  are  several  manu- 
factories ;  and  in  the  village  is  a  large  and  comfortable 
stage  house,  whence  coaches  go  to  Boston,  as  well  as 
west,  north,  and  south. 

Westminster.— Th\^  is  on  a  fine,  extensive  level ;  and 
on  the  hiffh  land,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  is 

Walpoie. — Connecticut  river  being  the  dividing  line 
between  the  two  adjacent  states,  VValpole  is  in  Nevy- 
Hampshire.  The  situation  is  very  commanding,  and 
the  summit  of  the  hill,  above  the  village,  affords  a  view 
of  unusual  extent  and  beauty.  There  is  a  spacious 
and  well-kept  inn  at  Walpoie  ;  and  stage  coaches  go 
hence  to  Boston,  &c.  It  will  be  founii  the  best  place 
to  stop  at  between  Brattleborough  ;ind  Charlestown. 

Three  miles  north  is  the  farm  of  Col.  Bellows, 
which  contains  700  acres.  The  house  of  the  propri- 
etor enjoys  a  fine  situation  on  a  ridge  rising  from  the 
meadow,  near  where  sfood  the  fort  erected  by  Cc3. 
Bellows,  when,  about  the  middle  of  the  last  century, 
the  place  was  occupied  and  a  settlement  begun  under 
the  name  of  Township  No.  3. 

The  changes  which  have  taken  place  in  the  channel 
of  the  river,  in  the  course  of  ages,  are  very  manifest 
in  passing  along  this  part  of  its  course,  particularly  by 
the  western  bank ;  in  one  place,  which  is  now  perhaps 
?oo  feet  above  the  present  level  of  the  water,  the 


^ 


288 


KOUTE   VV   CONNECTtCUT   IIIVIIJ?. 


current  appears  once  to  have  flowed,  and  to  havo 
formed  the  cataract)  which  has  now  retired  a  mile  oi 
mor(»  to  the  north. 

Bellows^s  Falls, — The  height  of  this  fall  is  inconside- 
rable, but  it  is,  on  the  whole,  a  striking  oljject ;  sur- 
rounded by  rocky  banks,  and  having  an  abrupt  moun- 
tain on  the  eastern  si<le.  The  place  has  also  been 
much  ornamentrd  by  art ;  for,  besides  the  village,  with 
its  neat  white  houses  and  handsome  church,  a  canal 
has  been  dug  round  the  falls,  a  bridge  thrown  over 
them,  and  the  rugged  side  of  the  mountain  decorated 
with  a  handsome  country  seat. 

The  rocks  are  of  the  most  firm  and  solid  gray  gra- 
nite, but  are  much  cut  by  the  force  of  the  current.  In 
some  places  holes  have  oeen  bored  into  them  perpen- 
dicularly, two  or  three  feet  in  diamet»'r,  and  12  or  even 
18  feet  deep.  This  is  done  by  the  motion  given  to 
loose  stones  by  the  eddies  of  the  stream,  and  the  gra- 
dual enlargement  of  the  bore  sometimes  breaks  off 
great  masses  of  the  rock.  These  falls  were  once  the 
favourite  resort  of  Indians  during  the  fishing  season. 
On  the  rock  just  below  the  bridge  are  some  remains 
of  their  rude  aitempts  at  sculpture,  which  represent 
the  form  of  human  laces ;  and  from  one  on  the  end  of 
the  stone,  which  appears  to  have  suffered  less  from  the 
attrition  of  rhe  floods,  it  would  seem  as  if  they  might 
once  have  been  more  finished  specimens  of  sculpture 
than  they  now  appear,  as  that  presents  considerable 
prominency  and  beauty  of  execution. 

The  Hunt  Farm  is  about  3|  miles  %m  the  falls, 
and  is  a  large  and  valuable  estate,  the  meadows  being 
rich  and  beautiful  in  the  extreme.  The  house  and 
other  buildings  are  large;  but  the  establishment  is 
not  conducted  on  such  a  plan  as  would  gratify  an  agri- 
culturist. 

Oiarlestown. — This  is  one  of  the  prettiest  I'tile  vil- 
lages in  New-England :  having  a  wide  street,  partly 
Fhaded  with  trees,  and  lined  with  neat  houses,  many 


WINDSOR. 


2m 


of  which  speak  the  taste,  as  well  as  the  easy  circum- 
stances, of  their  proprietors. 

This  was  called  Township  No.  4.  The  fort,  built 
for  the  defence  of  the  place  in  1743,  stood  on  the 
eently  rising  ground  a  little  south  of  the  church,  where 
trie  street  runs :  but  not  a  vestiee  of  it  is  to  be  disco- 
vared.  It  was  most  gallantly  defended  by  Capt.  Ste- 
vens, in  1747,  against  a  large  number  of  Trench  and 
Indians :  although  repeatedly  called  upon  to  surrender, 
the  garrison  persisted  in  the  defence,  digging  into  the 
ground  to  shelter  themselves  from  the  enemy's  fire, 
and,  after  several  days,  succeeded  in  driving  them 
away.    Capt.  S.  received  a  sword  for  his  bravery. 

Jarvis^s  Jhrm  at  Wethersfield  Bow,  on  the  west 
side  of  the  river,  is  very  extensive,  and  contains  a 
number  of  large  buildinp  for  dwelling!^,  barns,  stables, 
&c.,  principally  of  brick.  The  land  is  generally 
fenced  with  the  roots  of  pine  trees,  dragged  from  the 
ground,  by  which  the  soil  is  rendered  fit  lor  immediate 
cultivation,  and  unencumbered.  The  proprietor  of 
this  farm  is  also  the  possessor  of  a  large  part  of  the 
township  besides,  and  is  very  wealthy. 

The  road  beyond  affords  some  romantic  scenes. 
The  hills  approach  the  river  very  nearly,  and  several 
views  are  caught  between  them,  of  the  mountain 
behind  Windsor,  which  is  about  2000  feet  in  height, 
and  divided  into  three  peaks,  whence,  it  is  said,  it 
derived  the  name  of  Ascutney,  which,  in  the  Indiar 
language,  means  three  brothers. 

WINDSOR 

is  a  fine  and  flourishing  town,  in  a  very  picturesque 
situation,  particularly  wnen  viewed  from  trie  opposite 
side  of  the  river ;  and  contains  a  good  stage  house, 
kept  by  Pettes,  a  number  of  stores,  some  elegant 
houses,  two  or  three  handsome  churches,  and  the 
State  Prison. 

This  latter  building  is  of  granite,  on  the  hill  in  the 

Bb2 


290 


ROUTE   rr   CONNECTICUT   RIVEK. 


western  part  of  the  town.  It  is  planned  after  the  old 
and  ill-devised  system,  (see  pages  123  and  263,)  but 
has  one  thing  in  its  construction  worthy  of  imitation : 
the  stones  are  secured  against  removal,  by  having  six- 
pound  cannon  shot  placed  between  them,  holes  being 
cut  into  the  stones  to  receive  them.  In  1828,  there 
were  123  convicts,  who  reimbursed,  chiefly  by  weaving, 
nearly  all  the  expenses.    It  is  to  be  enlarged. 

Mount  ^scutnev. — A  great  part  of  the  way  up  this 
mountain  a  road  nas  been  cut,  and  the  traveller  will  be 
richly  rewarded  for  the  labour  of  his  ascent.  From 
the  nature  of  the  soil,  he  cannot,  indeed,  expect  to 
behold  a  scene  like  that  from  Mount  HolyoKe ;  but 
there  is  a  great  deal  that  is  fine  in  the  appearance  of 
the  surrounding  country,  rough,  and  interspersed  with 
villages  and  cultivated  tracts,  with  the  Connecticut 
winding  through  it. 

Sumner's  bridge,  four  miles  above,  was  injured  by 
the  great  flood  of  1828. 

The  Gulf  Road. 

Those  who  are  going  westward  from  this  part  of 
the  river,  are  counselled  to  take  the  Gulf  Road  to 
Burlington,  on  Lake  Chainplain,  to  which  a  stage 
coach  runs.  Although  the  route  is  through  the  chain 
of  the  Green  Mountains,  the  way  is  remarkably  smooth 
and  easy,  following  the  courses  of  the  White  and  On- 
ion rivers,  which  have  cut  deep  channels  through  the 
rocks.  You  have,  however,  first  to  go  16  miles  along 
the  western  bank  of  the  Connecticut  to 

White  River. — Here  great  quantities  of  lumber  are 
brought  down,  sawed  on  the  stream,  and  sent  by  the 
Connecticut  in  rafts  to  the  country  below.  Dartmouth 
College,  at  Hanover,  is  five  miles  north,  and  those  who 
are  going  to  the  White  Mountains,  will  of  course 
pursue  that  route  {see  p.  294)  ;  but  the  following  de- 
viation is  made  for  those  who  are  going  to  Lake 
Champlain. 


TJIE    Gl,LF    ROAD. 


^^91 


''  [The  road  up  the  White  River  lies  along  the  north 
bank,  and  passes  through  several  beautiful  and  flourish- 
ing villages.  The  valley,  though  narrow,  is  formed  of 
the  richest  soil,  and  wears  the  same  aspect,  in  form, 
fertility,  and  population,  with  the  meadows  of  the 
Connecticut.  This  was  one  of  the  courses  formerly 
chosen  by  the  Indians  of  the  north  in  their  commerce 
with  those  on  the  borders  of  that  river,  before  the 
arrival  of  Europeans;  and,  with  the  exception  of  a 
short  portage,  between  the  White  and  Onion  rivers, 
they  brought  their  furs  from  Canada  by  water.  Du- 
ring the  Indian  and  French  wars^  this  route  was  fre- 
quently used  for  more  hostile  purposes ;  and  captives 
were  taken  fi:om  these  settlements  so  late  as  the  Revo- 
lutionary war.  The  scenery  is  interesting  and  various 
all  along  the  route.  .      '^    , 

RoyaTton,  a  pretty  village.  This  place  was  bumed» 
Oct.  16th,  1781,  by  300  men,  principally  Indians,  who 
came  down  from  Canada.  They  killea  two  men  and 
took  away  six  prisoners  to  Montreal. 

Randolph  is  considered  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
towns  in  Vermont,  and  a  stage  coach  likewise  passes 
that  way. 

Gulf. — The  entrance  of  this  remarkable  passage 
from  the  east,  is  under  the  brow  of  an  abrupt  moun- 
tain, where  a  branch  of  White  River  flows  along  by 
the  road  in  a  gentle  current,  quite  inadequate  in  its 
present  condition  to  such  effects  as  it  has  produced  at 
some  former  period,  in  parting  this  enormous  banier. 
It  was  not,  however,  by  the  gradual  action  of  a  di- 
minutive stream  like  this,  even  when  increased  by  the 
annual  floods,  that  such  changes  were  made ;  but  by 
the  pressure  of  a  lake  confined  among  the  mountains, 
which  here  first  found  a  channel. 

The  Gulf  road  extends  6  miles,  and  the  ground  is 
so  level  that  it  has  been  proposed  to  make  it  tne  course 
of  a  canal.  On  the  height  of  land  is  a  pond,  from 
which  flows  a  stream  into  the  valley.  Part  of  it  joins 
the  White  River,  and  part  the  Onion  River. 


'3f)2 


ROUTE   Ur   CONNECnCDT   RIVEK. 


Hi 


Montpelier  is  the  capital  of  Vermont,  and  a  very 
retty  town.  It  contains  the  State  Houses  a  Court 
'^ou»e,  an  Academy,  and  other  public  buildings.* 

A  survey  has  lately  been  completed,  of  Onion  River, 
from  Lake  Champlam,  at  Burlington,  to  Montpelier,  a 
distance  of  38  miles.  It  is  asceitained  that  a  canal 
may  be  made  on  three  levels,  the  amount  of  fall  at 
three  points  being  394  feet.  The  height  of  Lake 
Champlain  above  tlie  Hudson  river,  at  Albany,  is  86 
feet.  The  elevation  from  Montpelier  towards  the 
Connecticut  River,  to  Onion  River  Pond,  was  found 
to  be  877  feet,  and  the  fall  thence  to  the  mouth  of 
Wells  River  on  the  Connecticut,  918  feet,  making  the 
whole  lockage  from  Lake  Champlain  to  the  Connecti- 
cut 2189  feet.  By  another  route  through  Dog  River, 
where  there  is  a  less  abundant  supply  of  water,  and 
White  River,  to  the  mouth  of  the  latter,  the  lockage 
is  1468  feet. 

From  Montpelier  to  Burlington,  the  road  pursues 
the  course  of  Onion  River  nearly  the  whole  distance, 
and  affords  a  succession  of  hilly  and  mountainous  sce- 
nery, such  as  is  characteristic  of  the  state.  The  river 
is  m  many  places  smooth  and  gentle,  though  occa- 
sionally interrupted  by  falls  and  rapids. 

*  History  of  the  State.— The  first  discovery  of  Vermont  wag  made  in 
1600,  by  Samuel  Champlain,  wlio,  after  establidhing  a  culuny  at  Quebec, 
proccediiit;  up  the  rivers  St.  Lawrence  and  Sorel,  explored  and  gave  his 
own  name  to  the  lake  which  washes  the  western  part  of  the  state.  In 
17S4,  the  government  of  Massachusetts  erected  Fort  Dummer,  in  the 
town  of  Brulilt'bornujih,  on  Connecticut  river.  The  first  settlement  in 
tlie  western  part  of  tlie  state  was  commenced  by  the  French  in  1731,  in 
the  town  of  Addison,  and  at  the  same  time  they  erected  a  fort  at  Crown 
Point.  The  government  of  New  Hampshire  began  to  make  grants  of 
townships  within  the  present  limits  oT  Vermont  in  1749,  at  which  time 
the  settlement  of  Renningt<m  was  commenced,  and  at  tiie  same  time  a 
violent  controversy  ensnod  l)etween  the  New-Hampshire  grants  and  the 
province  of  New- York.  The  first  convention  of  the  state  met  at  Dor- 
set, in  1776,  and  the  first  constitution  was  adopted  by  a  convention  ns 
lembled  at  Windsor  in  July,  1777,  ibut  the  organization  of  the  govern- 
ment did  not  take  place  until  March,  1778. 

The  difficulties  Mween  Vermont  and  New- York  were  amicably  set- 
tled in  1790,  and  the  next  year  she  was  admitted  into  the  confederacy  of 
the  states. 

In  April,  1P28,  there  were  ten  banks  in  Vermont,  with  $949,844  in  cir 
cnlation  in  note*.  •    ^ 


•'*•■••'" 


IIANOVKR. 


2}^3 


fiade  in 
iuebec, 
ave  his 
ite.  In 
In  tho 
nent  In 
1731,  in 
Crown 

;ant8  of 
ich  lime 
p.  time  a 
and  the 

at  Dov- 
[tlon  ns 

govern- 

Lbly  set; 
ieracyof 


On  the  load  from  Montpelior  arc  two  remarkable 
JVater  FallSf  in  the  Onion  Kiver.  They  are  so  near 
the  road  that  they  will  be  heard  in  passing^,  and  seen 
by  takinff  a  few  steps.  The  Upper  Fall  is  in  the  midst 
of  a  wila  scene,  the  water  pouring  over  broken  rocks, 
between  two  fiigh  and  perpendicular  banks.  The 
Lower  Fall  is  of  a  peculiar  character  :  the  stream  is 
broken  into  foam,  and  rushes  with  great  rapidity  ;  yet 
the  channel  is  obstructed  in  such  a  manner  by  several 
laro'e  rocks,  that  the  stream  is  tunied  alternatel)^from 
side  to  side,  being;  dashed  with  violence  against  their  ba- 
ses and  thus  forced  into  a  zig  zag  course.  A  few  miles 
before  reaching  Burlington,  the  road  leaves  the  river, 
which  bends  away  f«irther  towards  the  north.  At  its 
mouth  is  an  extensive  and  fertile  meadow,  which  may 
bear  a  comparison  with  those  on  the  Connecticut. 

Burlington  is  a  large  and  beautiful  town,  and  rn- 
jovs  one  of  the  finest  situations  on  Lake  Champlain. 
The  ridge  of  the  hill,  on  the  declivity  of  which  it  is 
built,  commands  an  extensive  view  upon  the  lake,  with 
the  numerous  mountains,  which  border  its  western 
shores,  and  a  large  expanse  of  water  on  the  right  and 
left.  Immediately  below  is  the  bay,  bounded  by  high 
land ;  and  the  ele^^nt  dwellings  and  beautiful  gar- 
dens of  the  wealthier  inhabitants,  ornament  the  [ore- 
ground. 

The  Steamboats  stop  here  on  their  way  to  "Whitehall 
and  St.  John's  (the  route  to  Montreal  ;J  and  the  tra- 
veller is  referred  to  the  Index  for  tlie  objects  on 
the  lake  in  those  directions.  [Returninff  to  Connecti' 
rut  river.] 

Hanover. 

This  village,  21  miles  above  Windsor,  is  remarkable 
as  the  seat  of 


U  in  cu 


294 


KOUTE   UP   CO^NKCTICIIT    UIVER. 


DARTMOUTH  COLLEGE, 

an  institution  which  holds  a  very  respectable  rank  for 
learning  and  influence,  the  number  of  its  pupils,  and 
the  ability  of  ils  officers.  It  was  founded  lor  the  edu- 
cation of  Indians,  and  was  named  after  William,  Earl 
of  Dartmouth.  It  possesses  a  lai^e  tract  of  land, 
which,  however,  is  unproductive  ;  and  the  college 
building,  which  is  of  wood,  and  not  inhabited  by  the 
students,  has  an  aspect  of  decay.  The  chapel  is  also 
of  wood  ;  but  several  of  the  houses  about  the  green 
are  very  neat,  and  the  ground  being  elevated,  the  place 
is  veiy  pleasant.  The  bills  for  tuition  here  are  ^33  a 
year. 

The  Medical  Institution  is  a  brick  building,  a  little 
north  from  the  square.  The  number  of  scholars  in 
the  college  is  generally  about  140. 

The  road  between  Hanover  and  Haverhill,  28  miles, 
presents  few  objects  of  much  interest ;  the  country 
not  being  thickly  popul;*ted,  and  no  villages  inter- 
vening, except  Oxford,  which  has  several  veiy  neat 
houses. 

Opposite  Hanover,  in  Norwich,  Vt.  is  a  Military 
and  Literary  Academy,  established  by  Capt.  Par- 
tridge, which  is  continued  since  his  removal  to  Middle- 
town,  Ct. 

The  Strafford  Copperas  Works  are  nine  miles  north 
of  Norwich.  One  of  the  buildings  is  267  feet  long.  The 
ore  is  pyrites,  taken  trom  a  stratum  in  a  hill  overlaid 
by  a  crust  of  ferruginous  eatth  containing  petrified 
leaves,  &c.  The  ore  is  broken  and  thrown  mto  heaps, 
for  about  two  months,  when  it  gradually  undergoes  a 
chymical  change,  emitting  spontaneous  fire  and  fumes 
ofsulphur.  It  is  then  leached  in  tubs,  and  the  water, 
after  Boiling,  yields  crystals  of  copperas,  of  a  rhombic 
form  and  a  beautiful  green  colour.  The  manufacto- 
ries produce  about  10,000  tons  annually. 


HAVIIUUILL. 


29o 


c  for 

and 
edu- 
Earl 
land» 
)Uege 
ly  tne 
is  also 
{yreen 
place 
J;33  a 

a  little 
lars  in 

\  miles, 
fOuntry 
inter- 
y  neat 


Havekuill. 

There  are  three  villages  in  this  town,  but  the  north- 
ern one  is  where  the  Boston  road  comes  in,  and  where 
there  are  two  good  inns.  The  situation  is  elevated, 
and  overlooks  the  meadows  for  some  distance.  The 
distant  scenery  is  here  very  fine,  as  Moosehillock 
Mountain  and  several  others  are  in  plain  view,  and 
serve  as  an  introduction  to  the  White  Mountains,  which 
we  are  approaching. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  Piermontf  (and 
the  traveller  may  cross  or  not,)  where  is  a  Sulphur 
Spring  of  some  local  celebrity,  with  a  building  for 
baths.  Some  distance  south  of  it  is  a  large  house,  in 
an  agreeable  situation,  for  the  accommodation  of  vi- 
siters. It  is  capable  of  receiving  a  great  many  peo- 
ple, and  has  a  garden  and  pleasant  rustic  walks  about 
it.  The  stables  are  large,  and  great  expense  had  been 
incurred,  which  has  yet  been  ill  repaid. 

The  Great  Ox-borv  is  a  meadow  containing  about 
500  acres,  l)nn^  in  the  town  of  Piermont  on  the  west- 
ern bank,  and  m  the  form  of  a  crescent.  An  iron  mine 
has  recently  been  discovered  in  this  town.  The  soil 
is  fine  and  valuable  ;  but  from  the  comparatively  small 
extent  of  the  meadow,  it  cannot  be  compared  with 
that  of  Hadley.  There  are  two  or  three  houses  seen, 
belonging  to  the  family  of  the  first  settler,  who,  as 
may  be  iniagined,  soon  acquired  wealth  from  so  valu- 
able a  tract  of  land. 

At  Bath  is  the  handsome  residence  of  Hon.  M.  P. 
Payson,  and  an  excellent  inn  kept  by  Carleton. 

From  Bath  to  the  White  Mountains ^  there  are  two 
roads,  one  of  which  turns  off  through  Lisbon,  Little- 
ton,* Bethlehem,  Breton  Woods,  Nash  and  Sawyer's 
Patent,  and  Shadbourn  and  Hart's  Patent. 


*  At  Littleton  is  an  excellent  inn.    Distance  from  Hanover,  GO  miles  ; 
;ioju  E.  A.  Crawford's,  IS. 


i2yG 


liOtl-L    LI*   CUN.MiKJTlUti    lUN  LK. 


Such  is  the  wildncjis  of  llie  country,  that  we  cau  do 
little  more  than  enumerate  the  places.  The  road  is 
new,  in  many  places  rocky,  and  m  others  rough,  on  ac- 
count of  the  logs  which  have  been  laid  down  to  sup- 
port it,  and  the  remains  of  the  slumps  of  trees.  But 
it  is  more  direct  and  much  less  mountainous,  than  that 
which  passes  ihrou'jh  Lancaster.  It  does  not,  how- 
ever, aiiord  that  fine  view  of  the  Connecticut  Valley, 
nor  of  the  ranges  of  moutitains  which  there  surround 
ity  like  a  magnificent  amphitheatre. 

Franconia,  This  is  a  secluded  village  among  the 
mountains,  5  miles  from  Bethlehem,  where  iron  is  ma- 
nufactured to  a  considerable  extent.  It  is  at  the  foot 
of  Haystack  Mountain,  hich  is  about  half-way  be- 
tween Mount  Washington  and  Moosehillock — 20  miles 
from  each.  Gibbs  keeps  an  excellent  inn  at  this 
place ;  and  the  stage  coach  passes  twice  a  week,  on 
the  road  to  Concord  and  Boston  by  Plymouth,  N.  H. 
The  situation  of  the  village,  which  contains  8  or  1(^ 
families,  is  highly  romantic,  and  it  presents  many  fine 
points  of  view.  The  Iron  Mine  is  entered  by  a  large 
cavern,  and  is  worthy  of  a  visit. 

The  Haystack  may  be  ascended  by  any  traveller 
disposed  for  arduous  enterprises  of  this  description : 
but  it  is  not  recommended  m  preference  to  the  ascent 
of  Mount  Washington,  which  is  rather  less  difficult. 
A  footpath  turns  off  from  the  road  about  6  miles  from 
Franconia,  which  conducts  to  the  summit,  3  miles. 
The  first  two  miles  are  through  thick  hemlock,  hac- 
luetac,  spruce,  &.c.  then  h  mile  stunted  trees,  and  the 
rest  bare  rocks.  Near  the  spot  where  the  path  begins 
IS  a  remarkable  Lusus  JSfaturce,  formed  by  a  rock  on 
,  the  side  of  a  mountain,  which  bears  a  resemblance  to 
the  human  face  in  profile.  This  eminence,  callt.d 
Profile  Mountdirif  is  4  miles  south  of  the  lower  iron 
works.  The  forest  shrubbery  extends  to  the  margin  of 
the  bare  rocks  much  in  the  proportion  of  the  bust  of  a 
njan.  It  is  called  the  "Ola  Man  of  the  Mountam.^' 
The  precipice  is  600  or  1000  feet  high,  and  rises  hxm 


^E^v-Lo.\l)o^. 


297 


Ihe  side  ot  a  pond,  which  is  a  source  of  the  Pemigc- 
wasset  river.  The  neighbour ingj  region  is  so  moun- 
tainous, that  more  than  fifty  peaks,  it  is  said,  may  be 
counted  from  the  top  of  the  Haystack.  Indeed  the 
view  from  that  eminence  embraces  nothing  but  moun- 
tains, with  here  and  there  a  cleared  spot  on  the  Ply- 
mouth road,  and  numerous  marks  of  slides  or  ava- 
lanches made  by  the  inundation  in  1826. 

Lancasteii 

is  a  very  pleasant  town,  and  the  last  on  the  river  which 
merits  that  name.  The  surrounding  mountains  form  a 
noble  scene,  superior  to  every  other  of  this  nature 
along  Its  course. 

The  Canada  line  is  only  40  miles  north,  and  lies 
along  I  he  Connecticut.  The  following  are  the  towns 
and  best  inns  :  (Marshal's  and  Eames')  Northumber- 
land;  (Porter's)  in  Stratford;  (Mahurin's)  Columbia  ; 
(Chamberlain's)  Colebrook ;  and  the  last  stage  (Col. 
Eames')  Stewartstown. 

[Having  now  completed  the  route  up  Connecticut 
River,  we  return  to  Long  Island  Sound.  For  other 
routes  and  places,  see  Index.]^ 

NEW-LONDON,  CONNECTICUT. 

Entering  New -London  Harbour,  (in  a  N.  Y.  steam- 
boat,) on  the  left  is  the  Lighthouse,  and  the  dwelling 
of  Gen.  North,  once  aid-de-camp  to  Baron  Steuben. 
The  shore  beyond  is  inhabited  by  fishermen,  whose 
boats  (called  smacks)  are  generally  to  be  seen  in  great 
numbers. 

Fort  Trumbull  occupies  a  point  beyond,  and  is  gar- 
risoned by  the  United  States.  It  was  taken  in  the  re- 
volutionary war,  as  well  as  the  town,  and  Fort  Gris- 
7vold,  which  stands  on  the  high  hill  opposite.  Look- 
ing up  the  River  Thames,  the  prospect  is  handsome, 
the  hanks  being  high  and  cultivated,  and  backed  by 


Horton's  Hill  several  miles  distant,  in  the  Moheagaii 
country. 

The  harbour  of  New-London  is  one  of  the  most 
accessible,  safe,  and  commodious  in  the  United  States^ 
lying  near  the  Ocean  and  the  Sound,  almost  surrounded 
by  high  land,  and  having  water  enough  for  ships  of 
war  quite  up  to  the  wharves,  with  a  nne  sandy  bot- 
tom near  the  shores.  Unfortunately,  however,  there 
is  no  convenient  communication  far  into  the  country, 
and  the  region  about  it  is  far  from  being  fertile,  so 
that  the  place  can  never  attain  much  importance.  It 
serves  in  some  degree  as  the  port  of  Connecticut  Kiver, 
because  there  is  no  good  harbour  there ;  and  a  ^reat 
deal  of  trade  was  carried  on  with  the  West  Indies  a 
few  years  ago. 

New-London  is  the  third  town  in  Connecticut  for  the 
number  of  inhabitants,  and  like  several  of  the  other 
principal  places,  although  so  small,  enjoys  the  pri- 
vileges of  a  city.  It  is  situated  irregularly,  princi- 
pally at  the  foot  of  a  hill  facing  the  east,  and  wears  an 
appearance  of  decline  ;  but  some  of  the  houses  are 
handsome,  and  there  are  several  fine  situations  near 
the  top  of  the  hill. 

There  is  a  road  hence  to  Providence,  and  another 
from  Norwich,  (13  miles  up  the  Thames,)  both  equally 
uninteresting,  and  nearly  of  equal  length.  The  river, 
however,  affords  some  very  pretty  scenes,  and  Nor- 
wich is  a  neat  and  interesting  town.  The  prices  have 
hitherto  been  nearly  the  same  for  the  two  routes. 

Fort  Griswold,  opposite  New-London,  was  garri- 
soned by  a  few  contmental  troops  in  the  year  1781,  in 
the  Revolutioii,  when  Benedict  Arnold,  after  his  trea- 
cherous desertion  of  the  American  cause,  appeared  off 
the  harbour  with  a  British  force  on  the  6lh  of  Sep- 
tember ;  and  landing  800  men  on  each  point  of  the 
harbour,  marched  up  and  took  Fort  Trumbull,  and 
burnt  the  town.  Col.  Eyre,  who  commanded  the 
troops  on  the  eastern  shore,  proceeded  towards  Fort 


THE    PXaVODH. 


291) 


It 


Uriswold,  and  sending  in  a  flag  oi'  truce,  demanded  a 
surrender. 

But  before  this  time,  Col.  Ledyard  had  entered  the 
fort,  and  garrisoned  it  with  120  men,  chiefly  militia 
volunteers  from  the  neighbourhood.  The  British 
troops  had  advanced  under  cover  of  a  wood,  and  in- 
vested the  fort ;  but  the  Americans  defended  them- 
selves for  some  time,  beating  off  their  enemies  cnce, 
and  Anally  surrendered,  when  resistance  would  have 
been  entirely  uselt^ss.  The  enemy  had  lost  41  olBcers 
and  men,  who  were  buried  near  the  spot;  with  Col. 
Ayres,  the  commander,  wounded,  and  Maj.  Montgo- 
mery killed.  After  the  surrender,  however,  a  mas- 
sacre of  the  prisoners  took  place,  which  cast  the  deep- 
est disgrace  on  the  expedition  :  70  officers  and  men 
being  the  victims,  most  of  whom  were  heads  of  fami- 
lies. Many  of  the  wounded  were  also  treated  in  a 
most  barbarous  manner,  being  placed  in  a  cart,  and 
rolled  down  the  hill  just  soutn  of  the  present  road  to 
the  fort.  Arrangements  have  been  made  for  building 
by  subscription  a  monument  on  the  spot.  It  is  to  be 
an  obelisk,  120  feet  high,  to  cost  about  $14,000. 

The  objects  on  the  Thames,  at  Norwich,  &c.  will 
be  taken  up  on  page  301. 

Road  from  New- London  to  ProvidencIj. 

Fort  Hill  is  a  commanding  eminence,  about  4  miles 
east  from* this  place,  and  derives  its  name  from  a  Pe- 
quod  Fort,  which  formerly  occupied  its  summit.  The 
road  crosses  it  near  the  southern  limit  of  the  fort,  and 
a  small  church  stands  a  quarter  of  a  mile  above,  within 
the  extensive  space  once  enclosed  by  that  palisaded 
work.  It  was  the  great  fortress  of  the  terrif)le  Pequod 
nation,  which  makes  a  very  conspicuous  flgure  in  the 
early  history  of  the  eastern  colonies.  They  had  fought 
their  way  from  the  interior,  and  seated  themselves  in 
the  present  limits  of  Groton,  where  the  few  poor  re- 
mj^jns  of  their  descendants  still  are  found.    On  the 


•«TT^ — ''  ' 


300        liOUTE  FROM   KEW-YOKK    TO   BOSTOK. 

arrival  cf  the  English,  they  had  extended  their  con- 
quests a  considerable  distance  up  Connecticut  River, 
and  the  Eastern  and  Western  Nehantics  on  the  coast 
were  subject  to  them. 

In  consequence  of  the  murders  they  had  committed, 
and  the  attacks  with  which  they  threatened  the  infant 
settlements  at  Hartford,  Windsor,  and  Wethersfield, 
the  inhabitants  formed  an  expedition  in  the  sprintr  ot" 
1637,  led  by  Capt.  Mason,  attacked  their  other  fort  on 
the  Mystic,  burnt  it,  and  killed  about  600  persons : 
after  which  the  nation  fled  from  their  country  ;  and  hav- 
ing: suffered  another  terrible  slaug^hter  in  the  swamp  at 
Fair6cld  (see  that  place)  were  reduced  to  slaveiy, 
and  ceaseti  from  that  time  to  be  an  object  of  terror. 

This  hill  commands  an  extensive  and  delightful 
view,  being  almost  entirely  clear  of  obstructions,  and 
being  superior  in  height  to  the  neighbouring  hills.  A 
cop'^iderable  extent  of  Long  Island  and  the  Sound  are 
overlooked  from  the  summit,  with  various  islands,  bays, 
and  points  on  the  Connecticut  coast.  At  the  time  of 
the  burning  of  Mystic  Fort,  it  was  occupied  by  the 
chief  Sachem  Sassacus,  who  hastened  to  the  relief  of 
\\\s  subjects,  but  arrived  too  late  to  render  them  any 
assistance.  On  his  return  here,  he  burnt  the  wig- 
wams an^  palisadoes,  and  immediately  fled  for  refugr: 
to  tlifj  Mohawks,  by  whom  he  was  beheaded. 

JJi/slif;,  7 '  miles. 

Siomngton,  10  miles. 

On  descending  the  hill  which  leads  into  thi*.  village. 
Porter's  Rock,  30  or  40  feet  hiffh,  is  seen  a  little  ofi 
the  road  on  the  right-hand.  Under  the  shelter  of  it, 
it  is  said,  Capt.  Mason  encamped  with  his  little  army, 
on  the  night  of  May  26,  1637,  old  style,  a  few  hours 
before  his  successful  attack  on  the  second  Pequod 
Fort,  which  was  on  the  top  of  a  hill  about  two  miles 
south  of  this  place. 

During  the  last  war,  a  small  fort  in  this  town  was 
attacked  by  a  ship  and  twc  brigs  pi  Com.  Hardy". 


THE   filV£K    THAMES. 


30  \ 


cquadron,  and  defended  by  the  inhabitants  with  great 
gallantry. 

Hopkiniorif  II  miles. 

West  Greenwich,  15  miles. 

CentrevilUf  2  miles. 

{Here  are  two  cotton  manufactories,  about  half  a 
e  apart,  and  two  weav'ng  shops  with  their  little 
settlements,  principally  inL^tbited  by  the  woi*k  peo- 
ple.] 

Providence,  11  miles.    {See  page  309.) 
THE  RIVER  THAMES. 


Steamboat  Route  from  New-London  to  Norwich. 

A  little  above  New-London,  there  is  a  singular  rock, 
on  the  east  side,  where  the  explorers  of  the  river  are 
said  to  have  landed,  and  to  have  been  attacked  by  the 
Pequods.  The  Moheagan  country  lies  above,  on  the 
west  side,  with  HortorCs  Hill,  on  the  top  of  which 
Uncas  had  a  fort,  something  of  which  Still  remains. 
It  is  a  very  commanding^  position,  and  overlooks  the 
surrounding  country.  During  the  late  war.  the  eovern- 
ment  ships  Macedonian,  United  States^  and-  Hornet, 
which  were  in  the  river,  lay  moored  here  lor  a  length 
of  time,  and  their  guns  were  drawn  up  by  oxen  to  the 
top  of  the  hill,  on  the  east  shore,  above  the  little  cove. 
A  small  battery  was  also  constructed  on  the  little  spur 
projecting  from  the  hill  in  front.  3  or  4000  militia 
were  stationed  on  the  opposite  shore  for  their  further 
security. 

Massapeague  Point,  just  above.  Here  the  river  is 
quite  narrow,  opening  northward  into  a  small  lake. 

There  is  a  small  island  on  the  eastern  shore,  on 

which  is  a  storte  cottage,  built  by  the  soldiers  for  a 

poor  family  which  resided  here  during  the  war.    It 

lies  at  the  entrance  of  a  pretty  cove,  which  makes  up 

a  mile.    Commodore  Decatur  brought  the  ships  up 

rc2 


II  IIIIIII^IIJl  itn 


30^ 


KOtTK    FROM    AEW-VORK    TO    i{OSTo:\. 


'ilt 


here,  for  still  greater  security  against  the  British  cruih- 
ing  oft' New-London  harbour.  The  place  where  they 
lay  is  Kiah's  CovCy  a  mile  above  the  island.  Above 
this  place,  the  river  has  been  impeded  by  sand,  washed 
down  by  the  Shetucket  River,  and  attempts  are  mak- 
ing to  remedy  it  by  building  piers.         , 

Trading  CovCf  1  mile  above  Kiah's  Cove,  is'a  hand- 
some little  bay,  making  up  into  the  Indian  countiy,  and 
derived  its  name  from  the  barter  formerly  earned  on 
here  between  the  white  men  and  the  Moheagans.  Un- 
cas,  the  Sachem  of  Moheagan,  was  believed  to  be  of 
Pequod  descent,  but  in  a  state  of  successful  revolt  at 
the  time  the  English  became  acquainted  with  him. 
His  chief  residence  was  near  this  cove,  now  the  centre 
of  the  Indian  Reservation ;  but  the  burying  ground  of 
the  royal  family  was  near  Norwich  Landing  (which 
is  in  sight  from  this  place).  He  had  conquered  the 
country  as  far  noiih  a;*  about  the  present  Massachusetts 
line,  but  became  an  early  friend  of  the  whites,  and 
rendered  tbeui  important  services,  particularly  in  war, 
as  well  as  his  successors,  the  later  Moheagan  Chiek. 

Before  this  part  of  the  state  was  settled,  Uncas  was 
once  so  closely  besieged  by  his  enemies  the  Pequods, 
that  he  suffered  extremely  from  a  scarcity  of  provisions, 
and  was  relieved  only  by  the  care  of  a  man  named 
Leffingwell,  who  was  despatched  from  Connecticut 
with  a  boat  loaded  with  provisions.  In  gratitude,  Un- 
cas gave  him  a  large  part  of  the  present  town  of  Nor- 
wich for  this  important  service.  There  is  a  rock  still 
pointed  out  on  the  shore,  and  called  Uncas*  Chair, 
where  the  Sachem  is  said  to  have  set  and  watched  the 
arrival  of  his  friends. 

On  the  south  side.  Trading  Cove  is  bounded  by  Nab 
Cooper's  Hill,  an  appellation  somewhat  quaint  for  a 
neignbourhood  not  deficient  in  romantic  association. 
Beyond  is  Fort  Hill,  which  derived  its  name  from  a 
little  place  of  strength  erected  in  old  times  by  the  In- 
dians, as  a  protection  against  other  nations  small  like 
themselves.    The  poor  remains  of  this  tribe  reside  oj^ 


NORWICH. 


303 


the  lands  secured  to  them  by  the  state  government,  and 
live  in  all  the  ignorance,  idleness,  and  thriftlessness 
common  to  Indians  in  this  part  of  the  countir :  melan- 
choly testimonies  of  the  degradation  to  which  the  most 
active  human  minds  may  sink  when  every  customary 
impulse  to  exertion  has  been  stifled,  and  no  new  in- 
citement extended.  An  Indian  could  formerly  equal 
or  surpass  his  companions  by  an  extraordinary  display 
of  swiftness  and  skill  in  the  chase,  or  conduct  and  cou- 
rage in  war ;  and  what  exertions  were  not  made  for 
the  attainment  of  such  distinction  ?  Red  men  have 
traversed  these  beautiful  shores  in  the  pursuit  of  game, 
or  the  tracks  of  their  enemies,  and  suffered  all  the  se- 
verities of  climate  and  privation,  of  wounds  and  of  tor- 
ture, for  those  white  men  whose  sons  now  neglect  and 
despise  their  descendants,  and  coldly  question  their 
capacity  for  improvement. 

NORWICH. 

Stage  Coaches  go  on  to  Providence  and  Boston,  and 
there  are  others  in  different  directions. 

It  contains  three  villages,  of  which  Chelsea  Landing 
is  the  principal,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  singular  si- 
tuation, as  well  as  foritsappearanceof  business,  which 
is  much  favoured  ^y  the  numerous  manufactories  in 
the  neighbouring  country.  The  Plain  is  about  a  mile 
north,  and  a  very  pleasant  place 

On  the  way  thither  is  seen  th^  Cjve,  at  the  upper 
end  of  which  are  the  Falls  of  Yantict  a  stream  which 
pours  over  a  ledge  of  granite  about  40  teet  high,  and 
supplies  several  manufactories  with  water.  The  place 
is  highly  picturesque.  A  rock,  70  or  80  feet  in  height, 
overhangs  the  stream,  whence  a  number  of  Narragan- 
sett  Indians  once  precipitated  themselves  when  pur- 
sued by  the  Moheagans. 

The  Burxjing  Ground  of  the  Uncases  is  on  the  ele- 
vated bank  north  of  the  Cove,  on  the  grounds  of  Judge 
Goddaid.    There  are  stones  marking  the  graves  of 


304 


KOUTE   FBOai   NEW-YORK   TO  EOSTO]S. 


numerous  members  of  the  royal  family  of  the  Mohea- 
gans,  and  a  few  of  them  bear  English  inscriptions. 
The  family  is  now  extinct,  with  the  exception  of  one 
or  two  degenerate  beings,  who  have  nothinjg  but  their 
name  to  boast  of.  Uncas,  the  old  friend  of  the  white 
men,  is  buried  here.  He  and  his  nation  were  the  only 
steady  allies  they  ever  found  among  the  Indians,  steady 
and  powerful  enough  to  render  them  very  essential 
service.  He  was  a  man  of  extraordinary  talent,  and 
withal  extremely  politic  ;  but  he  refused  to  join  the  ge- 
neral insurrection  under  King  Philip  in  1675,  and  died 
a  friend  of  the  white  men. 

This  plain  was  the  principal  summer  residence  of 
the  Moheagans. 

The  Flannel  Factory  is  146  feet  by  40, 5  stories  high, 
with  a  bleaching  house,  and  dying  house,  and  makes 
5000  yards  a  week.  There  are  also  the  Carpet,  Pot- 
tery, Paper,  and  other  factories. 

The  Cotton  Mamtfactory  is  a  very  large  establish- 
ment, under  the  bank  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yantic. 
The  position  is  well  selected,  and  the  sum  expended 
in  buildings  and  machinery  very  great.  It  is  owned 
by  a  company  in  Boston,  from  which  city  a  vast  amount 
of  capital  has  been  expended  in  all  parts  of  New- 
England  for  similar  objects,  as  the  traveller  will  have 
opportunity  to  perceive  as  he  proceeds. 

The  manufacturing  village,  although  recently  built, 
contained,  in  1827,  800  inhabitants.  About  a  million 
and  a  half  of  dollars  have  been  invested  here.  1600 
bales  of  cotton  were  manufactured  annually,  producing 
more  than  a  million  yards  of  cloth  ;  6  or  600  tons  ot 
iron  made  into  nails,  nail-rods,  &c.  and  150  or  200  tons 
of  castings  made  from  pig  iron.  10,000  reams  of  paper 
have  been  made  in  a  year,  besides  machinery,  linseed 
oil,  &c.    Here  are  two  school-houses  and  two  churchei>. 

Canal,  Surveys  were  made  in  182*  for  a  Canal  to 
run  from  Norwich  parallel  to  Connecticut  River,  up  the 
Quinebaugh  River  to  Massachusetts.  The  supply  of 
water  is  considered  abundant  at  all  seasons,  and  the 


JEWETT'S   CITY. 


6{)i 


tract  oi  country  through  which  it  is  to  pass  extremely- 
favourable  to  the  execution  of  such  a  design,  as  well  as 
by  its  fertility  and  population,  encouraging  to  its  suc- 
cess. It  is  to  pass  through  the  folio  wing  towns:  Spring- 
field, Palmer,  Western,  Brookfield,  Sturbridge,  South- 
bridge,  and  Dudley,  to  the  Qjuinebaugh.  In  1828  an 
association  was  formed  to  petition  the  Legislature  fov 
assistance  in  this  project. 

RoAB  FROM  Norwich  to  Providence. 

The  road  follows  the  course  of  the  Quinebaugh  Ri- 
ver for  some  distance,  through  a  hilly  tract  of  country, 
and  near  a  fine  cataract  in  that  stream.  At  the  distance 
of  U  miles  from  Norwich,  it  passes 

SacheirCs  Field.  This  is  an  elevated  plain,  on  which 
a  battle  was  fought  in  the  year  1643,  between  about 
900  Narraganset^s,  (who  inhabited  Rhode  Island,)  and 
500  or  600  Molie;)gan&.  The  Sachem  of  the  former, 
Miantonimu  intending  to  chastise  Uncas  tor  his  adhe- 
rence to  the  English,  secretly  advanced  into  his  country 
with  an  army  ;  but  Uncas  was  aware  of  bis  approach, 
and  n>et  him  on  this  plain  \\here  both  parties  halted. 

Uncas  resorted  to  a  stratagem.  He  stepped  forward 
alone,  and  challenged  Miantonimo  to  decide  the  quar- 
rel singfle-handed.  This,  as  he  expected,  was  refused  ; 
and  while  his  enemies  were  not  prepared,  he  gave  a 
signal  by  falling  down,  when  his  men  instantly  set  up 
n  yell,  discharged  their  arrows,  and  rushed  lorward. 
The  Narragansetts  fled,  and  many  of  them  were  killed. 
Uncas  captured  Miantonimo  himself,  but  the  haughty 
Indian  would  not  ask  for  quarter  nor  speak  a  word. 
He  was  taken  to  Hartford,  and  after  a  trial,  was  deli- 
vered to  Uncas  for  execution.  He  was  brought  back 
lo  this  place,  and  while  marching  across  the  field  was 
tomahawked  on  a  spot  a  little  east  of  the  road,  where 
a  heap  of  stones  for  many  years  marked  the  place  of 
his  burial. 

Mvett\  City  is  a  small  manufactuiins:  place  7  milev 


,i06 


BOUTE   FJIOM   NFiW-rOBK   TO   BOSTOJN. 


from  Norwich.    There  are  three  cotton  manufactories 
here,  one  with  2000  spindles. 

Plaintield 

is  a  pleasiint  Tillage ;  the  inn  is  lar^  and  good,  and 
overlooks  a  fertile  plain,  through  which  is  the  route  of 
the  proposed  canal  to  Brookfield,  Mass. 

On  crossing  the  line  to  Rhode  Island,  the  country  he- 
comes  uninteresting.  The  farmers  are  poor  and  negli- 
gent ;  there  are  no  villages  deserving  oi  the  name,  and 
nothing  worthy  of  particular  notice,  except  one  or  two 
small  manufactories. 

Providence.    See  page  309. 

NEWPORT. 

This  place  possesses  one  of  the  best  harbours  in  the 
United  States.  The  entrance  is  guarded  by  the  Dum- 
plings Fort  and  Fort  Adams ;  and  the  scenery  about  it 
is  agreeable. 

Fort  Adams  on  Brenton's  Point  is  to  become  one  of 
the  most  important  fortresses  in  the  great  plan  of  coast 
defences,  which  have  been  for  some  years  in  the  pro- 
gress of  construction.  This  fortress  was  to  cost,  on  an 
estimate,  $170,000,  and  is  to  embrace,  when  completed, 
an  extent  of  130  acres.  A  range  of  guns  is  to  line  the 
shore  towards  the  west  as  far  down  as  the  first  rising 
ground.  The  outer  wall  will  be  40  feet  in  height,  and 
extend  neai-ly  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  enclosing  about 
19  acres.  The  outiine  of  the  works  is  now  easily  seen. 
They  will  be  able  to  mount  150  cannon,  in  connexion 
with  the  redoubt,  which  is  to  *ae  erected  on  a  neigh- 
bouring hill.  Thus  the  fort  would  be  prepared  for  an 
attack  on  all  sides,  should  it  be  made.  The  founda- 
tions and  trenches  have  been  cut  into  rock  or  hard  clay. 
There  is  also  a  range  of  subterranean  galleries  cut  in 
rock. 

Other  works,  in  connexion  with  Fort  Adams,  are  prft^ 


KKWPORT. 


30^ 


posed  oil  Uie  opposite  shore,  the  Dumpling  Islands, 
he,  which  would  render  the  port  secure  as  tne  princi- 

J)al  rendezvous  for  our  navy  north  of  the  Chesapeake, 
or  which  it  is  designed  by  the  government.  If  not 
entirely  secure  from  a  land  attack,  the  neighbouring 
country  would  soon  afford  it  abundant  relief.  This 
fort  is  thought  not  inferior,  either  in  plan  or  importance, 
to  any,  unless  Fort  Calhoun. 

Fort  Wolcott  is  on  Goat  Island,  opposite  the  town. 

Newport  extends  about  a  mile  along  the  shore,  but 
presents  the  aspect  of  decay,  as  the  commerce  has 
been  removed  to  Providence.  The  situation  has  many 
advantages;  and  this  with  the  cheapness  of  rent  has 
begun  to  render  it  the  temporary  abode  of  many 
strangers  during  the  warm  season.  The  Bellevue  Ho- 
tel enjoys  a  fine  situation. 

T^he  trindmill,  an  old  stone  tower  on  the  top  of  the 
hill,  is  a  conspicuous  object,  although  long  disused. 
There  are  four  churches  visible  ;  and  the  Library^  a 
small  but  neat  and  correct  specimen  of  architecture  in 
the  upper  part  of  the  town,  is  worthy  of  attention. 
The  nouses  of  the  town  are  thickly  clustered  about 
the  water,  but  make  rather  a  gloomy  appearance  on 
account  of  the  want  of  paint  and  repair ;  the  place 
having  experienced  a  gradual  declension  produced  by 
the  success  of  Providence,  30  miles  further  up. 

The  Poor  House  is  on  Coaster's  Harbour  Island, 
about  a  mile  above  the  town,  seen  in  passing  in  the 
steamboat.  The  island  belongs  to  the  town,  and  con- 
tains 80  acres.  The  building  is  three  stories  high,  of 
stone,  and  contains  50  or  60  poor.  Those  who  are  able, 
work  on  the  land,  and  others  at  different  manufactures ; 
but  most  of  them  are  women,  and  some  superannuated. 
The  keeper  receives  fifty  cents  a  week  for  the  board 
of  each,  which  is  paid  by  the  town,  to  which  the  pro- 
'iucts  of  the  labour  are  credited.  Since  this  esta- 
blishment has  been  formed,  the  expenses  of  the  poor  to 
the  town  have  been  reduced  one-half. 

Tlie  beach  behind  the  town,  like  the  whole  circuit 


308 


ROUTE   FR03I   :NEAV-Y0KK   TO   BOSTOA. 


of  the  city  on  the  land  side,  was  defended  by  a  line  of 
troops,  batteries,  &c.  during  the  possession  of  it  by  the 
English  in  the  revolutionary  war;  and  the  opposite 
high  grounds  were  occupied  by  the  American  army, 
whose  head-quarters  were  on  faumony  hill,  a  mile 
and  a  half,  or  thereabouts,  from  the  town ;  an  elevation 
which  affords  an  extensive  view  on  every  side.  Gen. 
Prescott  was  taken  here  during  the  war,  by  a  bold  party 
of  men  under  Col.  Barton,  who  landed  secretly  from  a 
boat  in  the  night,  went  to  the  British  head-quarter«, 
and  conveyed  their  captive  away,  before  the  land  or 
naval  forces,  then  in  the  harbour,  could  prevent  them. 
The  place  was  blockaded  by  the  British  fleet. 

During  the  possession  of  the  place  by  the  enemy,  the 
trees,  as  well  as  about  900  houses,  were  cut  down  for 
fuel ;  and  although  the  island  is  admirably  calculated 
for  the  growth  ol  fruit  trees,  and  was,  belbre  that  pe- 
riod, quite  covered  with  the  finest  orchards,  it  is  now 
so  divested  of  trees  of  every  description,  as  to  appear 
remarkably  naked  and  monotonous  for  an  American 
scene.  Trie  fertility  of  the  ground,  and  the  excellence 
of  the  crops,  however,  as  well  as  the  neatness  and 
precision  with  which  the  fields  are  cultivated,  and  re- 
gularly divided  by  fine  stone  walls,  present  a  picture 
of  agricultural  beauty  rarely  parajleled  in  the  United 
States.  The  island,  14  miles  long,  and  not  3  wide, 
contained  in  1827  more  than  30,000  sheep. 

Fort  Green  is  a  little  battery  erected  on  the  water's 
edffe,  about  a  mile  above  the  town. 

Mount  Hope,  famous  as  the  ancient  royal  residence 
of  the  Wampanoag  Indians,  and  particularly  as  the 
abode  of  King  Philip,  and  the  scene  of  his  death,  is 
seen  from  a  few  miles  beyond  Newport,  towards  the 
north-west.  It  rises  in  Warren,  on  the  shore  of  an  arm 
of  the  bay,  and  will  be  particularly  described  here- 
after. The  view  of  it  is  soon  afterward  cut  off  by  the 
intervention  of  Prudence  Island^  which  is  about  five 
miles  in  length,  and  presents  the  same  fertile  soil  and 
gently  swelling  «:urface  as  tbut  of  Rhode  li^land.    T\v 


l'RoviDE\(;l:. 


JOiJ 


inhabitants  are  few,  as  are  those  of  Patience  and 
Hope  ;  islands  of  a  much  smaller  si:^e.  Despair  is 
a  duster  of  rocks  on  the  left,  near  the  island  oi 
Hope,  the  north  end  of  which  is  20  miles  from  Pro- 
vidence. 

lihode  Island  Coal  Mine.  An  extensive  mine  of  an 
thracite,  or  incombustible  coal,  wa^  opened  a  few  years 
since  near  the  north  end  of  the  island,  in  Portsmouth, 
about  2  miles  iVom  iiristoj  Terry.  It  was  not  extc»n- 
sively  used,  however,  and  the  work  was  speedily 
abandoned.  The  property  has  passed  into  other  hands 
within  two  or  three  years  ;  and  since  the  anthracites 
of  Pennsylvania  have  become  so  Valuable,  about  40 
hands  have  at  some  periods  been  employed  in  digging 
it,  and  about  100  tons  of  all  sorts  of  coal  have  been 
got  out  in  a  week-  The  vein  which  is  wrought  is 
about  4200  (eet  one  way,  115  another,  and  4  feet  in 
thickness.  It  lies  on  an  inclined  plane  ;  and  three 
other  veins  are  supposed  to  be  oi  equal  extent. 

New-York  being  the  great  market  lor  ( oal,  this  mine 
is  very  conveniently  situited  ;  lying  within  800  yards 
of  the  river,  where  sloops  come  up  to  a  wharf  and 
load.  The  excavations  are  liable  to  be  flooded  in 
wet  weather,  by  which  the  working  has  been  a  good 
deal  impeded.  It  is  necessary  that  fireplaces  should 
be  constructed  on  the  plan  of  a  furmce  to  burn  this 
coal,  as  it  requires  a  high  degree  of  heat  to  ignite  it. 

PROVIDENCE. 

This  is  the  second  city  in  New-England,  both  in 
population,  vve'alth,  and  beauty.  It  contained,  in  1825, 
about  16,000  inhabitants,  find  is  beantilully  as  well  as 
advantageously  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation,  on 
the  river  of  the  same  name.  It  contains  several  hand- 
some churches,  a  theatre,  an  arcade,  (on  Westminster- 
street,)  and  many  tine  houses. 


...i't 


310        KOUTE    rUOSl    M^U-VOKK   XU    BOSTON. 


Brown  Univebsity, 

the  greatest  institution  of  learning  in  the  state,  is  built 
on  tne  summit  of  a  high  hill,  the  ascent  to  which  b 
not  very  easy,  although  it  is  laid  out  in  streets,  deco- 
rated with  some  of  the  finest  houses  in  this  part  of  the 
country,  dispersed  among  spacious  gardens,  and 
mingling  the  delights  of  the  country  with  the  splen- 
dour ofa  city.  There  are  two  brick  buildings  be- 
longing to  this  institution,  which  command  fine  pros- 
pects.    In  1828  the  number  of  graduates  was  27. 

The  town  was  settled  by  Roger  Williams,  who  left 
the  old  colonies  in  consequence  of  a  disagreement  in 
religious  doctrines.  He  built  his  house  on  the  shore, 
near  the  present  Episcopal  church.  Many  of  the 
society  of  Quakers  or  Friends  afterward  joined  him, 
whose  descendants  form  a  large  share  of  the  popula- 
tion of  the  slate. 

The  Academy  is  a  large  institution,  near  the  College, 
established  by  the  Friends. 

On  Eddy's  Point,  it  was  lately  said,  was  tl  only 
cotton  manufactory  in  the  Unitea  States  worked  by 
steam. 

This  state,  having  severely  suffered  from  the  want 
of  public  schools,  has  recently  taken  laudable  mea- 
sures to  supply  the  deficiency ;  and  the  towns  are 
hereafter  to  be  supplied.  An  Infant  School  has  been 
established  in  Providence. 

(For  PLYMOUTH„se€  Index*) 

[Taunton,  32  miles  from  Boston,  next  above  Dightonr 
A  great  quantity  of  cotton  is  manufactured  here,  and 
there  are  extensive  works  in  iron.  The  power  is  sup- 
plied by  5  dams  on  the  west  branch  of  Taunton  river. 
About  1500  tons  of  iron  are  manufactured  here  every 
year,  1200  tons  into  nails,  300  into  plates,  hoops,  and 
machinery.     From  1 500  to  2000  pieces  of  calico  print* 


MAATFACTUUIUS. 


311 


ily 


?en 


tOIlr 

land 

]up- 

'er. 

[ery 
and 


are  furnished  by  the  cotton  manufacturers,  &c.  weekly. 
Annually  800,000  yards  of  No.  30  cotton  cloth  are 
made  ;  and  50,000  lbs.  of  yarn,  all  out  of  800  bales  of 
cotton.  About  700  persons  are  employed  with  7000 
spindles  and  200  looms.  The  highest  manufactories 
up  the  river  are  built  of  wood ;  the  next  of  stone  :  the 
third  of  brick.  There  are  two  brck  dams ,  and  the 
printing  establishment  is  among  the  last. 

There  is  also  a  manufactory  of  Britannia  ware,&c. 

Sampson's  Hotel,  at  Marlborough  Ponds,  is  a  plea- 
sant resort,  half-way  to  New-Bed  lord  J 

Manufactories  in  J^tew- England.  There  are  said  to 
be  about  400  buildings  in  this  sfrlion  of  the  United 
States,  devoted  to  the  spinning,  weaving,  ai>d  print- 
ing of  cotton;  135  for  Massachusetts ;  110  tor  Rhode 
Island  ;  CO  for  Connecticut ;  60  for  New-Hampshire  ; 
15  for  Maine  ;  10  for  Vermont.  They  were  sup- 
posed to  contain  on  an  average  700  spindles :  which 
gives  a  total  of  280,000.  Th^ey  worked  perhaps  280 
da^s  in  a  year,  and  used  140  lbs.  of  raw  cotton  to  each 
spindle  :  which  ^^  ^uld  give  a  total  of  39,200,000  lbs. 
or  98,000  bales.  >  one-thif  d  of  the  manufactories  the 
we^iving  is  done  b^'  power  looms ;  in  one-third  by 
hand  ;  and  the  others  send  their  yam  to  the  midduj 
and  southern  states,  where  it  is  woven  by  hand  under 
contractors,  or  in  families.     Business  has  declined. 

Not  more  than  275  cotton  manufactoi  les  are  supposed 
to  be  in  operation  in  the  remaining  pans  of  the  United 
States. 

Wool  and  Woollen  in  (he  United  States, — It  was  con- 
jectured in  1827  that  about  100  millions  of  dollars  were 
invested  ^  sheep  and  sheep  lands  in  this  country  ;  the 
number  ol  heep  at  15  millions,  and  100  millions  em- 
ployed jV)  Manufacturing  wool.  By  the  last  census 
there  wer*  >  in  Dutchess  county,  N.  York,  more  than 
450,000  sheep,  which  would  give  a  surplus  for  other 
markets  of  600,000  lbs.  of  wool  annually.  From 
SOOjOOO  to  a  million  of  sheep  were  estimated  to  have 
hf^en  wintered  in  the  state  of  Maine  in  !82«,  '^7  :  ?'^ 


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<}I2       KOUTE   FHOM   NEW-YORK   TO   UOSTOK. 

.tniJiions  of  pounds  were  supposed  to  be  worked  up 
that  year  in  the  United  States,  giving  fjll  or  partial 
employment  to  100,000  persons. 

In  boring  the  earth  in  this  town,  in  1828,  from  the 
end  of  the  earth,  the  auger  passed  through  the  arti- 
ficial soil — then  through  a  stratum  of  mud-- then 
through  bog  meadow,  containing  goo(i  peat — tlien 
through  sand  pebbles  and  quartz  ^  vel.  At  this  point 
water  impregnated  with  copperas  and  arsenic  broke 
forth;  next  struck  a  vineyard  and  dre  «  up  vines, 
erapes,  grape  seeds,  leaves,  acorns,  hazlenuts,  pine 
burs  and  seeds  of  unkiiK)wn  fruits,  together  with  pure 
water.    This  was  36  feet  below  the  bed  of  the  river ! 

Rail  Route  from,  Providence  to  Boston,^^A  year  or 
two  since,  a  survey  of  the  country  between  these  two 
cities  was  made  under  the  authority  of  the  Legislature 
.of  Massachusetts,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  the 
practicability  of  a  railroaa.  The  middle  route  %vas 
proposed,  beginning  on  Front-street  or  near  the 
Common  in  Boston,  proceeds  on  the  west  side  of 
Boston  Neck,  through  Roxbury,  west  part  of  Dor- 
chester, east  part  of  Dedham,  middle  of  Walpole  and 
Foxborough,  a  corner  of  Mansfield  and  Attteoorough 
City  to  Pawtucket;  crosses  the  river  near  Central 
Falls,  proceeds  through  the  east  part  of  Providence  to 
India  Point,  thence  may  be  extended  to  Water-street — 
or  it  may  come  to  India  bridge,  on  the  Massachusetts 
^iderand  there  terminate,  or  cross  the  river  near  that 
bridge  to  Fox  Point.  The  whole  distance  from  Boston 
to  Fox  Point,  by  Central  Falls,  is  43  miles  and  48 
chains :  cost  of  single  road  334,000  dollars — double 
road  649,513  dollars.  Greatest  rate  of  inclination 
would  be  30  feet  in  a  mile.  The  amount  of  ascent 
and  descent  on  the  route  to  Fox  Point,  by  Central 
Falls,  is  879  feet. 

The  amount  of  merchandise  annually  transported 
between  the  two  cities  was  estimated  at  1700  tons  by 
hn^t  and  3400  by  water,  besides  a  lai^e  amount  for 


•J   m:''  VAYfUVCKET:, 


313 


sborter  distances.  In  18S8,  $83,000  were  received  by 
the  agents  of  one  of  the  lines  of  stage  coaches  between 
these  two  cities. 


BiACKSVOffi  Camai.. 


This  canal,  which  was  completed  in  1838,  and 
extends  to  Worcester,  Mass.  runs  along  the  course  of 
the  Blackstone  River  for  several  miles.  That  stream 
is  seen  on  leavingProvidence,  and  lies  west  of  the 
road  to  Boston.  The  road  now  in  use  is  new,  and 
shorter  than  the  old,  but  avoids  several  villages  which 
that  passes  through,  and  presents  very  few  objects 
worthy  of  notice.  '  The  Blackstone  Canal  is  4&  miles 
long,  Id  feet  wtd«^  at  «he  bottom,  and  34  feet  at  the 
surface.  There  are  48  locks,  all  built  of  stone,  which 
overcome  a  rise  aitd  fall  of  450  feet.  The  size  of  the 
locks  is  83  feet  in  length,  and  10  in  breddtb ;  and  the 
cost  of  the  whole  Work  was  about  $560,000.  The 
water  is  chiefly  derived  from  the  Blackstone  river ; 
but  tbere  are  laree  ponds  at  different  parts  of  the 
route  which  can  be  drawn  upon  at  any  time.  Soon 
after  tbe  opening  of  the  navigation,  a  quantity  of  cherry 
plank  and  joist  was  received  here  from  a  vast  distance 
west.  It  grew  in  Michigan  or  Ohio,  at  the  head  of  Lake 
£rie  ;  from  whence  it  was  shipped  down  the  lake  to 
Buffalo,  thence  by  the  £rie  Canal  to  Albany,  from  that 
place  to  Providence  by  sloop  navigation,  and  from  Pro- 
vidence to  this  place  by  the  Blackstone  canal,  a  distance, 
In  the  whole,  of  at  least  nim  hundred  niHei,  four  hun- 
dred miles  of  which  is  an  ariificicd  navigation* 


rted 

for 


Pawtucket  ^  .  ,  c 

is  one  of  the  faigest  manufacturing  places  in  this  part 
of  the  country,  and  has  increasea  surprisingly  within 
a  few  years.  The  banks  of  tbe  river  are  varied  and 
somewhat  romantic :  while  the  faU«  which  is  under 


mmmmmmm 


'314        KOUTE   FUOM  WEW-YORK   TO  BOSTON. 

the  bridge,  furnishes  a  most  valuable  water  power* 
Cotton  is  principally  manufactured  here,  though  'here 
is  machinery  devoted  to  other  purposes.  The  influx  of 
strangers,  many  of  tbein  poor  an^  ignorant  foreigners, 
and  most  of  them  removed  from  the  wholesome 
restraints  of  a  better  society,  has  pn>duced  unfavourable 
effects  on  habits  and  morals;  which  is  the  v«orst  fea< 
ture  In  the  manufacturing  system.  The  first  spinning 
by  machinery  in  this  country  was  done  on  a  very 
small  machine  in  1785,  in  Providence. 

The  road  between  Providence  and  Pawtucket,  4 

miles,  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  United  States ;  as  the 

^law  requires  that  all  the  income  above  10  per  cent. 

'shall  be  devoted  to  repairs  ;  and  the  travellir^  is  veiy 

great.    It  is  hard  ana  smooth,  and  is  to  be  mmished 

with  a  convenient  side- walk  the  whole  distance. 

Pawtucket  is  the  first  village  near  the  canal  and  con- 
tains 8  or  10  cotton  factories.  At  Central  Falls,  3 
miles  above,  4  do.  Valley  Falls,  a  short  distftncc 
above, 4  do.  Next  come  Reltey'sand  the  Albion  fac- 
tories ;  then  Mansfield,  where  are  Iwo  factories,  one 
45  feet  by  150,  and  5  stoi  ies  high,  of  pressed  brick.  A 
mine  of  anthracite  coal  has  been  found  near  the  canal. 

At  Woonsocket  Falls  the  descent  of  the  river  is  33 
feet  in  a  short  distance,  an<i  affords  fine  seats  for  ma- 
chineiy,  equal  to  Pawtucket.  There  are  cotton  and 
woollen  factories  here.  The  canal  passes  through  the 
village  of  Cumberland,  and  rises  by  three  locks,  of  11 
feet  Tifl,  constructed i  of  granite.  There  are  two  other 
factories  near  this  place ;  and  four  at  Bartlett's  falls- 
above,  with  a  Scythe  factory. 

At  Slatersville  is  a  factory  46  feet  by  153,  and  5 
stories  high,  of  hammered  granite.  All  these  esta- 
blishments, from  Central  Falls  to  Slatersville,  are  in  the 
township  of  Smithfield,  which  abounds  in  valuable 
limestone.  ..  •  ■""'.,  >. 

Mendon.  Here  is  Famem's  woollen  factory,  and  a 
cotton  factory,  without  mentioning  several  other  esta- 
blishments off  the  river.    The  Bfackstone  Factory,  or 


'*   VLACKSTONI:   CANAIii 


H.:i 


315 


Mammotht  can  make  about  5000  yards  of  sheeting 
tlaily.     A  little  above  are  two  other  factories. 

Uxbridge,  Here  are  factories  of  kerseymere,  sat- 
tinet»  &c.  Rofferson's  factory  is  one  of  the  first  in  the 
state.  It  cost  about  {140,000.  There  is  a  remarkable 
aspect  of  neatness  and  beauty  pervading  the  esta- 
blishment and  the  villa^.  There  are  several  beautiful 
little  ponds  formed  by  art,  the  margins  of  which,  as 
well  as  of  the  riv^r,  have  a  very  pretty  aspect. 

Northbridge.  Here  are  two  factories.  Holbrook 
woollen  factory  makes  about  300  yards  of  sattinet  a 
day,  and  Dennis'  about  100.  A  quarry  of  e^ranite  is 
opened  about  200  yards  from  the  canal ;  and  that  ma- 
terial abounds  in  this  reeion. 

Grafton.  Here  is  a  fall  of  51  feet.  400  yards  of 
sattinet  are  made  in  one  establishment  hen'.  Here 
are  to  be  seen  the  New-England  Manufacturing  Cora- ' 
pany*s  buildings,  where  the^  make  duck  and  twine 
from  both  flax  and  hemp.  This  is  on  the  eastern  road 
to  Providence,  and  6  miles  from  Worcester. 

The  Great  Reservoir  is  just  above.  I'  is  formed  by 
damming  the  Qfuinsigamond  pon-^  and  four  other  ponds, 
by  a  single  dam.  This  sets  the  water  back  so  far  as 
to  cover  more  than  2000  acres  ;  and  keeps  an  abundant 
supply  always  at  disposal. 

At  WilkinsonviUe  is  a  large  cotton  manufactory  ;  and 
at  Milburyy  a  little  way  beyond,  300  jards  of  woollen 
are  made  daily.  Within  a  short .  distance  are  also 
manufactories  of  cotton,  scythes,  and  guns. 

Worcester.  Here  are  large  paper  mills,  five  machine 
shops,  &<:.  &c.     {See  Index.) 

Aitlehorough.  The  inn  stands  on  the  spot  once  oc- 
cupied by  a  block  hou*e,  built  on  the  frontier  of  the 
Indian  country  before  Philip's  war.  Opposite  is  an 
old  burying  ground,  which  contains  the  body  of  the 
first  man  killed  here  by  the  savages.  The  largest 
Button  Manufactory  in  the  (J.  States  is  in  this  town. 

Walpole.  Here  the  sta^e  coaches  usually  stop  to 
dine  or  breakfast. 


"ppp 


«PWIWW1PPIP"PW 


316       SOUTE   FROM   NEW-YOBK   TO  BOSTOiN. 

DecUiam,  10  miles  Jrom  Boston^  is  a  large  and  beau- 
tiful  village,  with  reg;u1ar  and  wel)  built  streets,  and 
some  quite  elegant  bouses.  Fisher  Ames  lived  in  the 
second  hoiiae  on  the  left-hand,  as  you  enter  the  villaee. 

[Blue  Hills,  This  is  a  pleasant  retreat}  about  7  miles 
from  the  city  of  Boston^  and  much  resorted  to  in  the 
summer  season  ;  as  a  targe  house  of  entertainment  has 
been  lecently  erected  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
whence  the  place  derives  its  name  ;  and  the  summit, 
which  is  considered  800  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
oceao^  commands  a  fine  and  extensive  view.  A  snoall 
house  has  also  been  built  on  the  top,  where  the  view 
is  the  finest,  for  the  temporary  repose  and  supply  of 
visiters.  On  the  northern  side,  the  view  embraces, 
in  a  clear  day,  the  Green  Mountains  in  Vermont,  and 
the  White  Mountains  in  New-Hampshire,  with  a  wide 
extent  of  country  between :  Nahant,  and  in  general,  all 
Boston  Bay,  is  seen  eastwardly,  and  near  at  hand.]   ; 

The  hills  are  seen  on  the  right  from  the  road,  a  few 
miles  south  of  Boston. 

^uincy  Railway.  Thb  is  the  first  work  of  the  kind 
which  was  constructed  in  the  United  States.  It  is  3 
miles  long,  and  leads  from  the  quarries  of  granite  to 
navigable  water,  for  the  transportation  of  stone  to 
Boston.  The  railway  and  the  quarries  will  be  found 
worthy  of  a  visit.  The  descent  from  the  commence- 
ment to  the  wharf  is  86  feet ;  breadth  5  feet  from  the 
inside  of  one  rail  to  the  inside  of  the  opposite  one  ; 
a  horse  path  between  the  two  rails  4  feet  4  inches  wide. 
The  plank  Tails  are  of  pine  10  inches  in  height,  with 
caps  of  red  oak  2  inches  thick,  by  3  inches  width. 
The  sleepers,  or  tranverse  beams  are  of  granite,  7 
feet  long,  on  which  the  rails  > rest ;  these  sleepers  are 
at  distances  of  8  feet  apart.  The  wrought  ma  rails 
are  laid  on  the  red  oak  caps,  and  are  2  inches  wide, 
and  3-8ths  of  an  in.  thick :  27  tons  3  cwt.  14  lbs.  of  iron, 
including  screws,  aie  used  to  each  miley  making  short 
of  82  tons  of  iron  for  the  3  m.  This  railway  was  opened 
for  use  on  the  16th  September,  1826,  and  has  been 


UOXBUSV. 


317 


since  constantly  used  for  the  transportation  of  g:ranite — 
generally  60  tons  per  day.  One  horse  has  drawn  22 
tons,  including  the  weight  of  the  two  wagons,  from 
the  quarry  down  to  the  wharf;  but  the  Ordinary  load 
of  a  horse  is  from  12  to  15  tons.  One  horse  usually 
draws  2  wagons.  By  way  of  experiment,  one  horse 
drew  13  tons  up  an  elevation  at  the  rate  of  66  feet  6 
inches  in  the  mile,  a  distance  of  200  feet.     A  load  of 

24  tons  io  3  wagons  passed  on  the  railway,  which  did 
not  appear  to  shake  the  rails  at  all.  The  wheels  of 
the  wagons  are  6  feet  in  diameter ;  the  axle  tree  3  inches 
in  diameter.     Weight  of  wagons,  3500 pounds  each. 

Four  beautiful  columns  were  taken  from  the  granite 
quarries,  in  1828,  of  solid  masses,  for  the  new  church 
in  Quincy.  They  are  25  feet  long,  4  feet  2  inches  in 
diameter  at  the  base,  3^  at  top,  and  supposed  to  weigh 

25  tons  each. 

Roxhury,  On  the  Neck  which  leads  to  Boston,  we 
pass  the  remains  of  the  intrenchments  thrown  up  by 
General  Washington,  in  1776,  to  shut  the  BritisD 
troops  up  in  the  town  ;  and  a  little  beyond  them  is  the 
place  where  Gen.  Gage  previously  drew  his  line 
across,  to  command  the  communication  between  it  and 
the  country.  The  country  on  both  sides  retains  marks 
of  the  American  forts,  redoubts,  &c.  and  Dorchester 
Heights  on  the  east  are  crowned  with  the  works  thrown 
up  by  Washington,  which  commanded  Boston  and  the 
anchorage;  and  forced  the  enemy  to  evacuate  the 
place.  Embarking  here  in  their  fleet,  they  went 
around  to  Long  Island,  and  soon  after  entered  New- 
York.     [See  page  322.] 

[Several  routes  have  been  proposed  for  a  canal,  to 
be  ciit  from  Boston  Harbour  to  Narragansett  Bay. 
Such  a  work  would  save  the  exposed  navigation 
round  Cape  Cod.]  ,  j 


i\)\\wi^jf^]m^m^iffmmfm"i'  '   '" 


aiH 


iUTV    OF   MOSTOJV. 


■■"li 


BOSTON. 


Hotels.  Tremont  House.*  The  Exchange.  Marl- 
borough Hotel,  &c. 

Boston  contains  an  uncommon  proportion  of  fine 
buildings,  particularly  private  residences :  for  it  not 
only  possesses  much  wealth,  but  also  much  taste  and 
public  spirit.     The  finest   buildings  are  of  whitish 

franite,  brought  from  the  shores  of  the  Merrimack 
Liver,  being  found  in  abundance  at  different  places, 
from  Chelmsford  to  Concord,  N.  H.  It  is  transported  to 
Boston  by  the  Middlesex  canal,  and  is  not  onl^  beautiful 
and  lasting,  but  obtained  at  a  moderate  pnce.  It  is 
found  very  durable  when  exposed  only  to  the  ele- 
ments :  but  fire  soon  disintegrates  and  ruias  it.  The 
Qyiincy  granite  is  also  excellent. 

TheAtken(Bum»    Under  the  patronage  of  wealthy  and 

feiierous  friends  of  the  arts  and  sciences,  for  whom 
(oston  has,  long  been  conspicuous,  this  valuable  col- 
lection of  books,  coins,  and  medals  has  by  rapid  de- 
grees risen  to  a  grade  of  eminence  among  the  Ubraries 
of  the  country.  In  addition  to  the  numerous  and  vo- 
luminous works  before  in  the  possession  of  the  insti- 
tution, subscriptions  have  been  made  within  a  few 
years  to  procure  complete  copies  of  the  transactions 
of  the  Royal  Societies  and  Academies  of  Sciences  in 
London,  Edinburgh,  Dublin,  Paris,  Petersbuig,  Berlin, 
Turin,  Gottingen,  Stockholm,  Copenhagen,  Madrid, 
and  Lisbon.  The  catalogue  of  1827  contains  23,000 
volumes.  Any  person,  by  paying  $10  a  year,  may 
enjoy  the  liberty  of  readinj^  books  in  the  rooms  of  this 
institution ;  but  only  proprietors  and  life  subscribers 
have  the  privilege  of  takmg  them  away.  The  library 
however  is  free  to  strangers  introduced[  by  proprietors, 
and  may  then  be  visited  by  them  alone  at  any  time. 

•  Tremont  Tlou^e  is  the  most  splendid  hotel  in  the  United  States.  It 
makes  a  fine  uppearnnce,  contaiits  18U  rooms,  and  is  conducted  on  aii 
excellent  plan.  A  part  of  the  establishment  is  appropriated  to  private 
partiesand  families,  and  has  a  distinct  access,  through  a  different  street. 
%vifh  no  ootnmunicatjon  witli  the  main  hortvof  the  hniWinir. 


CITV   OF  BOSTON. 


6Uf 


arl- 

fine 
not 
and 
litish 
nack 
aces, 
edto 
utiful 

It    13 

i  ele- 
The 


1?. 


Most  of  the  valuable  periodical  magazines  of  Europe 
are  regularly  received;  as  well  as  those  of  the  United 
States,  and  newspapers  from  all  parts  of  the  country. 
The  Exhibition  and  Lecture  rooms  are  in  a  building 
in  the  rear.  The  Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences  have 
a  room  on  the  first  floor,  and  there  is  a  piclui-e  gallery 
on  the  second.  ^  ^uXh^^ 

Tlie  J^ew  Market  is  constructed  of  granite,  and  is 
of  the  following  dimensions :  a  centre  building  74^ 
feet  by  55,  with  wings,  extending  in  all  536  ieet,  with 
a  fine  fa9ade  at  each  end,  with  granite  columns  of 
single  pieces,  21  feet  high,  and  weighing  each  14  or 
15  tons  ;  a  row  of  granite  buildings  on  each  side,  4 
stories  high,  for  stores,  more  than  500  feet. 

In  State*street  are  the  Banks,*  Insurance  Offices,  and 
'Change. 

The  Common  is  a  fine  piece  of  ground,  on  the  south* 
western  side  of  the  city,  and  one  of  its  greatest  orna- 
ments. The  surface  is  ap;reeably  varied  by  a  few 
gentle  undulations,  and  it  is  decorated  with  rows  of 
handsome  dwelling  houses  on  two  sides,  while  on  the 
third  it  is  bounded  b)r  the  bay  of  Charles  River,  and 
affords  an  extensive  view  in  tnat  direction,  embracing 
a  tract  of  cultivated  hilly  country.  A  range  of  buildings 
near  the  south  end  of  the  Common,  bears  the  name  of 
Colonnade  Kow,  in  consequence  of  their  being  all 
alike  furnished  with  white  columns. 

The  State  House  is  the  principal  object  seen  in  ai>- 
proaching  the  city,  and  stands  on  a  considerable  emi- 
nence at  the  north  side  of  the  Common.  It  has  a 
double  range  of  columns  in  front  of  the  main  building, 
and  a  laige  dome  on  the  top,  to  which  a  somewhat 
intricate  staircase  leads,  affording  the  most  extensive 
view  of  Boston  and  the  surrounding  country  which  is 
to  be  found. 


lates.   li 

^d  on  an 
private 

kit  stu-e'' 


*  Tn  Boston  there  arc  17  hnnks,  e.xclnaive  of  the  U.  S.  Branch. 
These  banks,  or  ratiier  14  of  them,  have  in  circulation  bills  bearing 
interest  to  the  amount  of  f  3,493,142  42.  The  amount  of  all  debts  due 
Hie  whole  of  tfioni.  ox«  lusivo  of  baliuiu's  dim  f'©in  (lie  mukf.  's 
«18..'V04.5r.!)  3.^. 


3i2U 


ClTV   OV  BOSTON . 


Chantrey^s  Stafne  of  Washington,  in  this  be^uliVul 
specimen  of  the  ^nfus  and  skin  of  the  s:reatest  British 
sctilptor,  B(»ston  possesses  a  treasure.  It  was  finished 
and  sent  to  Ame^a  in  1^27,  and  n  new  apartment 
was  constructed  t'oi'^ts  reception,  adjoining  the  Doric 
Hail  in  the  State  H^e.  The  total  expense  of  the 
statue  and  building  amounted  to  about  $16,000.  The 
sculptr)r  received  oP^'^his  $10,000.  The  entrance 
from  the  Hall  into  the'edifice  is  <hroueh  arched  paS' 
sa^es,  which  afford  tbe*  visiter  a  full  view  in  ap- 
proaching and  from  vai'T6us  points. 

The  hills  at  Dorcherff^t,  Koxbury,  Brighton,  Cam- 
bridge, CharIestown,**&yi^together  with  the  numerous 
islands  which  protect  tfi^' harbour,  form  an  ampbi^ 
theatre,  very  regular  and'"beautitul,  when  seen  trom 
the  top  of  tne  State  House :  and  the  villages  which 
are  seen  in  every  directioH^ialmost  entirely  line  the 
shore.  The  mingling  of  ]a^«  and  water  in  this  scene 
is  very  fine  ;  ana  it  is  easy.^t  a  glance,  to  compre- 
hend the  plan  of  the  various  measures  adopted  during 
the  Revolutionary  war,  for  th^"^defence  and  the  cap- 
ture of  the  place.  '''  y- 

The  JSfavy  Yard,  at  Charlestojjv'n,  encloses  60  acres, 
and  enjoys  many  advantages  in  tAJ' situation.  It  has  a 
high  stone  wall  on  the  north  ;  arld'He^r  the  water  stand 
a  large  warehouse  of  brick,  sevc^fel'  arsenaKs,  maga- 
zines of  stores,  the  residence  of  tnf  superintendent, 
and  three  very  large  ship-bouses,  e^fclV'^^i^e  enough  to 
hold  a  hundred-gun  vessel,  with  thcl^tees,  &c.  The 
Dry  Dock  is  very  large.  The  foiii^yatfon  is  made 
with  piles,  driven  three  feet  apart,  ^pbbrting  layers 
of  timber,  plank,  and  stone.  '  The  sWrfe  work  will 
amount  to  about  600,000  cubic  feet.   '^'''^",' 

Gen.  Gage,  in  1775,  ran  a  breastwoil^ktross  Rox- 
bury  neck,  which  is  very  narrow,  in  order  to  com- 
mand the  only  land  communication  with  the  neigh- 

■i;;  !'>  ,''■ 
*  At  rharJesfnwn  is  thr  Slnt".  P^-i^oVswVXvh  In?  Intfllyibewi  gipntU 
iinprovd,  on  the  hi'stplans.  ,,  i    ♦<) 


JULKKEUS   UlLt. 


JSii 


bouring  country,  and  then  continued  those  acts  of  op" 
pression  upon  the  people,  which  exasperated  the 
Colonies  so  much  avainst  him.  Contributions  were 
sent  in  for  their  relief  from  all  parts  of  the  colonies. 

On  the  17th  of  June,  1775,  while  the  forces  which 
bad  repaired  to  this  threatened  scene  had  their  Lead- 
Quarters  at  Cambridge,  a  body  of  men,  principally 
formed  of  detachments  trom  Massachusetts  and  New- 
Hampshire  regiuients,  having  fortined  themselves  on 
Breed*s  Hill,  (an  eminence  of  about  70  fei't,  behind 
Charlestown,)  manfully  disputed  the  ground  with  the 
British  troops  sent  over  from  Boston  to  occupy  it. 
The  loss  vvas  great  on  both  sides,  particularly  on  that 
of  the  assailants,  who  were  driven  back  in  three  at- 
tacks. The  boldness  ot  these  raw  troops,  and  the 
success  with  which  they  so  long  withstood  the  chaiges 
of  the  regulars,  were  of  the  utmost  use,  by  encourag- 
ing the  country^  and  by  convincing  the  English  that 
they  were  fighting  a  powerful  foe.  The  ttatlle  usually 
goes  by  the  name  of  Bunker's  Hill ;  but  should,  in 
strict  propriety,  be  called  after  Breed's  Hill,  as  the 
latter  is  a  distinct  eminence,  although,  perhaps,  a  spur 
from  the  former. 

The  British  landed  near  a  point,  just  beyond  where 
the  navy  yard  is  now  seen ;  and  the  American  defences 
consisted  of  a  small  earth  redoubt  on  the  top  of  Breed's 
Hill,  and  a  double  rail  fence,  stuffed  with  new  hay, 
extending  from  it  to  the  water.  Some  remains  of 
these  works  are  still  to  be  traced.  A  British  sloop  of 
war  lay,  during  the  action,  in  Mystic  River,  beyond 
the  navy  yard,  and  kept  up  a  cross  fire  upon  the  low 
neck,  which  connects  the  peninsula  of  Charlestown 
with  the  mainland. 

The  17th  of  June,  1825,  the  fiftieth  anniversary  of 
this  battle,  was  commemorated  with  very  appropriate 
ceremonies ;  and  the  corner  stone  of  a  monument  was 
laid  in  an  angle  of  the  old  redoubt,  on  Breed's  Hill. 
u'irh  Masonic  ceremonies.  A  large  number  of  Revo- 
lutionarv  officers   and  soldiers   assembled ;   and  thr 


3<:)8 


Cllk    or    HUMi'()I«. 


inoniimniit  in  to  (m  «rfictoU  at  the  oxpeiibc  oi  priviilc 
contribution!. 

Bunkir  Hill  MmutMnt.  The  liime  (n  tnaNN  nl 
14,000  tonR  w«l)(ht,)  in  lai(i  13  frat  dm\u  And  Iiki  nix 
couineR  of  ntoiM  to  the  Nurfacu— 'the  Amt  of  which  in 
50  feet  on  vaoh  lide.  Above  thin  a  pyramidal  ohn- 
liikf  30  feet  aquare,  ii  to  riie  tapering,  tl3  feet  4 
inches  on  the  ground,  and  to  be  1 A  at  the  top.  It  will 
be  componed  of  80  couraen  of  atone,  each  9  feet  8 
inchet  thick.  A  winding  atone  ataircaNe  in  the  inaide 
will  lead  to  the  aiimmit,  whence  the  view  will  be  tine 
and  highly  interesting.  The  whole  ia  to  be  built  of 
granite  from  ^juincy.  The  largeat  block  in  it  la  aaid 
to  be  of  the  following  dimonaums :  11  feet  long,  6 
bitMid,  S  feet  8  inches  high,  with  a  weight  often  tona. 

After  the  battle  of  Hunker'N  Hill,  the  Continental 
troopa  wen*  drawn  in  a  mom  complete  line  around  the 
town  of  Boiton ;  and  numerous  intrenchments  may 
.stil!  be  traced  out  on  moat  of  the  hi  Ha  in  the  vicinity  ; 
but  »t  was  not  till  (Sen.  Washington  nucceeded  in  oc- 
cupying Dorchester  Heights,  which  command  the 
harbour  and  town  from  the  south-east,  that  the  Bri- 
tish embarked  in  their  ships,  and  evacuated  the 
place.  ' 

Dorche$tBr  HeiglUs  were  occupied  on  the  night  of 
March  4, 1776.  Eight  hundred  men  formed  the  van ; 
then  followed  carriages^  and  1300  pioneers  under  Gen. 
Thomas,  300  casts  of  fascines  ana  gabions,  and  ^^ns 
in  the  rear.  Two  forts  were  formed  by  10  at  night, 
one  towards  the  city,  and  the  other  towards  Castle 
I<!land.  Preparations  were  made  for  an  attack  by  the 
British,  and  for  defence  by  thie  Americans ;  but  the. 
weather  prevented  the  design  of  the  former,  who  con- 
sisted ol  10,000,  and  they  embarked  for  New-York. 
The  town  was  pillaged,  and  1500  loyalists  removed. 
It  was  evacuated  and  possessed,  March  17  :  ammuni- 
tion, &c.  being  left  by  (he  British. 

The  Massackmetts  Ocnerat  Ifosptial  is  near  Dif" 
Charlrstown  Bridjfo. 


AlA^M'A(/n;ul^M. 


3yd 


It  tho 


IJriiif(VH.  801110  of  (hf)  tmmt  i«trikiii((  oiijuctii  in  thn 
ticittliljoiirhood  ol  Bo«U>n,  wro  thu  liridgirw  which  hmd 
Iroiii  it  to  v«riouii  pointN.  'I'hon)  nrc  no  lf;»«  thuri  fivo 
IMiiicipal  oneNt  benideM  iDvernl  bninchtfi.  TIid  t;.'^- 
ixjniu  iU  which  they  have  hiieii  conntructiid  and  em 
kfipt  in  rrpuir  ifi  very  throat,  ond  thny  iuininh  ^nni  fi- 
olhtiflN  tor  itrangcra  deiiruua  of  makin({  eicumiuiM  to 
thf)  Nurroundiiif  country* 

ICtiueation*  TIm  fjyceumt  a  WUthtj  inNtitutioiif 
with  branches  in  many  oi'  tlie  townn  in  tnia  and  other 
•tatei,  ia  calculated  to  difTuae  uaeful  iisarning  among  all 
claiiMN.  Tbii  atate  took  the  lead  in  eatabliahlnff  a 
HVNtem  of  general  education,  and  e:|joy»  Ita  tienenta. 
There  were*  in  1027,  76(M)  children  iintruotud  in  tbfr 
public  RchouU  in  Bonton,  aa  follows— Tlient  are  veveii 
u^ranimar  ncliooN,  in  which  wore  about  000  pupilf. 
riiero  wei'R  '200  l)ovfl  in  the  fjatin  school,  and  140  in 
tliti  Hi{];h  achool.  Tho  67  primary  schools  containitd, 
in  1820.  3436  children  between  4  and  7  yearn  of  age, 
taught  by  females,  kc  ice.  In  Motni:  of  these  the 
monitorial  system  has  been  introduced  .  The  public  ex- 
pense incurred  in  instructing  nearly  7600  children  is 
)||64,600  annually.  There  have  since  been  established 
.several  Infant  schools,  under  the  direction  of  a  so- 
ciety of  ladies. 

A  monument  has  been  laid  or  eotfime^cH!  over  thn 
jt^ravcs  of  Dr.  Frnnklin^s  parents,  in  the  Granary  bury- 
ing ground.  The  model  is  for  an  obelisk,  25  feet 
high,  formed  of  seven  blocks  of  Qjjincy  granite,  each 
weighing  about  6  tuns. 

An  Asylum  for  the  Blind  is  to  be  established  in 
Boston. 

Villages,  The  vicinity  of  Boston  presents  a  suc- 
cession of  villages,  probably  not  to  be  paralleled  for 
beauty  in  the  Unitedi  States.  They  are  Kenerall]^  the 
residence  of  a  number  of  the  most  opulent  citizen!> 
during  the  pleasant  seasons,  and  many  of  the  buildingu 
are  nne  and  expensive.  The  grounds  are  also  fre- 
quently laid  out  with  great  taste,  and  highly  cuiti- 


324 


ciTir  »F  iiosTo:^'. 


\ 


vated ;  so  that  no  stranger,  who  has  leisure,  should  tail 
to  take  a  circuit  through  them,  at  least  for  a  few  miles."*^ 
The  public  coaches  may  be  found  convenient.  There  are 
several  manufacturing  establishments  in  this  vicinity, 
among  which  Waltmm  is  conspicuous.  [In  some 
places  on  the  coast  salt  is  made  from  sea-water. f] 

Cambridge,  3  miles  from  Boston,  is  the  seat  of  the 
oldest,  and  one  of  the  principal  colleges  in  the  United 
States.  The  village  is  very  pleasant,  and  contains  the 
residences  of  the  numerous  professors.  The  college 
buildings  are  numerous,  and  the  older  ones  venerable 
in  their  appearance.  52  decrees  of  A.M.  were  con- 
ferred in  1828.  This  institution  is  the  most  richly  en- 
dowed in  New-England,  and  has  educated  many  of 
her  most  distinguished  men.  Hon.  Josiah  Quincy  is 
the  President. 


NAHANT, 

14  miles.  This  is  a  veiy  pleasant  and  fashionable  re- 
sort, during  the  warm  months :  being  a  fine  situation, 
open  to  the  sea,  of  easy  access  by  land  or  water,  and 
furnished  with  several  houses  for  the  accommodation 
of  visiters,  particularly  the  large  hotel.    A  steamboat 


♦  The  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital  at  Chelsea,  opposite  Boston,  is  a  fine 
building,  erected  out  of  the  Hospital  collected  from  seamen  in  the  mer 
chant  service.  It  is  105  feet  long,  50  wide,  three  stories  hipb,  and  coat 
$30,000.  Here  temporary  relief  is  afforded  to  American  seamen  wlio 
had  paid  Hospital  money,  (unless  affected  by  cnnta^iious  diseases,)  and 
Ibreien  seamen  are  admitted  at  the  price  of  75  cents  a  day. 

t  The  Salt  Manufactories  of  Massa^usetts  are  worth  about  two  mil- 
lions of  dollars,  and  make  about  000,0(90  bushels  a  vear,  by  solar  eva- 
poration. Each  bushel  weighs  75  pounds.  The  duty  in  the  United 
States  on  imported  salt  is  20  cents  a  bushel ;  and  yields  a  revenue  ol 
$600,000.  Manufactories,  by  natural  and  artificial  heat,  are  established 
in  the  following  states:— New- York,  jRliode- Island,  North  Carolina  and 
Alabama. 

In  Barnstable  county  there  are  estimated  to'.be  fttleen  millions  squarf 
feet  of  lanii  devoted  to  the  makins;  of  salt  by  solar  evaporation.  lit 
New-England  there  are  supposed  to  he  18  millions,  which,  in  1827. ^n.- 
A'Tced  38#,.334  bushels  of  salt. 


W^; 


NAHA]NT. 


;i2o 


IS 


a  line 
[lomer 
jid  coat 
In  who 
)8,)  aiid 

iro  mil- 
iar eva- 
lUniied 
bnue  of 
Lblished 
Ina  and 

( pquarf 
in.    Ik 


runs  thither  in  the  summer,  and  there  is  a  hne  road 
i/vhich  passes  round  the  bay  through  the  shoemakiog 
town  of  Lynn,  along  Lynn  beach,  and  tbea  turns  off  to 
the  promontory  of  Nabant,  which  is  a  point  of  rough 
rocks  of  considerable  elevation.  You  may  cross 
Charlestown  bridge,  and  visit  Bunker's  Hill  at  iiet* 
ting  out.  .     . . 

The  passage  in  the  steamboat  affords  a  fine  view  of 
Boston  bay,  with  the  city  ;  Dorchester  heights  on  the 
south,  Bunker  and  Breed's  Hill  on  the  north-west, 
and  many  other  interesting  objects.*  Amon^  the 
islands  which  form  the  defence  of  the  harbour,  is  that 
which  contains  Castle  Williams,  and  one  or  two  other 
fortified  ones ;  Rainsford  Island  with  the  Marine  Hos- 
pital, part  of  it  quite  elevated,  but  containing  only  a 
few  acres.  Salt  is  made  at  Deer  Island,  where  you 
ps^ss  through  a  narrow  and  crooked  channel,  and  wind- 
mills are  sometimes  used  to  pump  the  water. 

The  ground  near  the  hotel  at  Nabant,  has  been  laid 
out  ana  ornamented  with  as  much  taste  as  the  expo- 
sure of  the  situation  will  permit.  The  cupola  on  the 
top  commands  a  fine  water  scene  ;  and  during  a  stnoi^ 
wind  from  the  sea,  the  waves  are  high  and  maffnih- 
cent,  breaking  wildly  against  the  rocks.  Pea  Island, 
south-westerly,  and  "Egg  Island,  east,  are  proniinent 
and  rocky.  There  is  a  veiy  ornamental  little  build- 
ing, in  the  Doric  style,  which  contains  billiard  rooms. 

The  Baths  are  at  a  little  distance  from  the  hotel,  and 
quite  commodious,  furnishing  one  of  the  phiei'  attrac- 
tions of  the  place. 

The  Spouting  Horn  is  a  hollow  in  the  rocks,  on  the 
shore,  east  of  the  village,  where,  at  half-tide,  the 
w;7^ves  throw  the  spray  ten  or  fifteen  feet  into  the  air. 

The  Swailow^s  Cave  is  a  remarkable  aperture  in  the 
rocks,  not  far  from  the  landing  place.  It  is  60  or  70 
feet  long,  and  in  one  place  aibaui  20  feet  high.  The 
tide  ri^es  in  it,  and  it  is  visited  by  swallows ;  and 

^  *  At  Dorchester  if  a  Hbust  of  Industry. 
Ee2 


!l4»!i|kUW,"l!|lf.!,'!"|i.m,**lU"|!»l  ■ 


-"T^Vr 


32G 


cnrv  OF  UOSTO.N. 


there  are  several  other  caverns  of  a  similar  character, 
produced  in  the  cour^^e  of  ages,  by  the  constant  attri' 
tion  of  the  water.  Seats  are  conveniently  disposed  at 
different  places,  in  the  most  commanding  points,  from 
which  the  truly  striking  olijects  around  are  seen  to 
e;reat  advantage.  The  rude  shores  and  the  smooth 
beach  can  be  best  examined  at  low  tide ;  but  those 
who  are  fond  of  sublime  scenes,  should  omit  no  op- 
portunity to  visit  Ihem  when  the  wind  is  high,  parti- 
cularly ma  moonlight  night. 

Proposed  Improvemenis  for  Internal  Communica* 
tion, — Plans  have  been  on  foot  for  several  years,  for 
constructing  canals  and  railways  from  Boston  to  the 
Hudson  River  near  Albany. 

Proposed  Railroad  from  Boston  to  Albany. — This 

Sroject  was  rejected,  in  1830,  by  a  large  vote  in  the 
[arssachusetts  Legislature.  The  followins;  results  are 
ffiven  by  the  surveyors  of  the  southern  route,  which 
they  considered  the  most  eligible.  It  passes  through 
Worcester,  Leicester,  Spencer,  Springfield,  western 
part  of  Westfield,  thence  along  the  southern  branches 
of  Westfield  river  to  Washii^gton,  thence  through  Pitts- 
field  and  Richmond  to  the  boundary  of  the  state,  near 
the  north  line  of  West  Stockbridge.  The  distance  by 
the  line  here  described,  is  94  miles  and  64  chains  from 
Boston  to  Connecticut  river,  160  miles  44  chains  to  the 
border  of  the  state,  and  by  the  shortest  lines  surveyed, 
193  miles  and  6  chains  to  Albany. 

Of  this  distance  *M3  miles  are  level ;  and  in  travel- 
ling towards  Albany  94^  miles  are  descending,  4U 
miles  have  an  ascent  not  exceeding  20  feet  per  mile, 
26  miles  have  an  ascent  of  different  rates  from  26  to 
52  feet  per  mile,  and  the  remaining  24  miles  an  ascent 
of  52  to  80  feet  per  mile.  In  travelling  from  Albany 
to  Boston,  90^  miles  are  descending,  45^  ascending 
not  more  than  26  feet  per  mile,  21}  ascending  from  '26 
to  52  feet  per  mile,  and  27|  miles  from  52  to  80  feet. 
Eight  tons  net  weight  are  considered  an  average  load 
for  a  single  Irorse  on  the  level  parts,  and  parts  ascend- 


HP 


ritOj  KCT F. U    it AILW A i  S . 


327 


mg  not  over  26  feet  per  mile,  travelling  19  or  20  miles 
per  day ;  6  tons  for  the  parts  ascending  from  26  to  52 
feet,  travelling  10  miles  per  day  ascendmg,  and  return- 
ing the  same  distance  ;  and  4  tons  for  the  parts  as- 
cending 52  to  80  feet,  travellmg  at  the  rate  last  men- 
tioned." 

The  cost  of  the  road,  22  feet  in  width,  is  estimated 
at  j(  14,940  70  per  mile,  on  ;in  average.  Adding  ten 
per  cent,  for  unforeseen  expenses,  the  whole  cost  of  the 
road  from  Boston  to  the  Dorder  of  the  state,  will  be 
$2,638,628  64  ;  to  Albany,  $3,254,876  46.  It  is  cal- 
culated that  the  cost  of  transportation,  for  heavy  goods, 
paying  the  lowest  rates  of  freight,  would  be  about  one 
cent  per  mile  on  an  average,  exclusive  of  toUs^  which 
win  add  perhaps  half  a  cent  more  per  ton. 

[A  company  was  organized,  in  1827,  to  open  a  Water 
Communication  between  the  Piscataqua  and  the  Con- 
necticut Rivers,  through  the  waters  of  Lake  Winni- 
piseogee,  and  the  upper  branch  of  Merrimack  River.] 

Boston  and  Whitehall  Railroad. — A  railroad  has 
also  been  projected  to  the  head  of  Lake  Champlain, 
at  Whitehall,  over  a  route,  and  in  connexion  with  chan- 
nels of  communication  which  promise  great  advan- 
tages. 

The  route  which  is  proposed,  is  from  Boston  through 
Lowell,  Nashua,  Amherst,  Weare,  Henniker,  Brad- 
ford, south  end  of  Simapee  Lake,  down  Sugar  River, 
through  Newport,  Claremont,  and  Cornish,  to  Wind- 
sor, Vt. — thence  through  Reading,  Plymouth,  Shrews- 
bury, to  Rutland ;  thence  througti  Castleton,  to  lake 
Champlain,  at  or  near  Whitehall.  Or,  if  upon  a  sur- 
vey it  should  be  thought  expedient,  to  pass  from 
Lowell  up  the  Merrimack  to  Concord,  and  thence  to 
diverge  upon  the  same  route. 

A  glance  at  the  map  of  New-England  will  be  suffi- 
cient to  understand  the  importance  of  this  project,  and 
to  discover  that  various  branches  might  be  run  in  con- 
nexion with  it,  along  the  most  productive  portions  of 
the  neighbouring  districts-. 


su 


Oi'i'V    OF   BOSTUiN. 


There  are  numerous  manufacturing  as  well  as  agif- 
cultural   villages  along  the  route,  and  granite,  soap- 
stone,  lime,  marble,  copperas,  &c.  are  found  in  quan- 
tities in  different  places,  besides  a  great  amount  of 
water-power  hitherto  unemployed. 

The  present  roads  from  Boston  to  Whitehall  are 
about  160  miles  in  length ;  and  the  rail  route  would 
not  be  much  greater.  For  travellers,  therefore,  as 
well  as  for  merchandise,  it  might  be  an  advantageoas 
work,  if  once  well  constructecTand  in  operation. 

A  route  has  also  been  proposed  for  a  Railway  com- 
munication between  Boston  and  Lake  Ontario,  from 
Concord  to  Lebanon  on  Connecticut  River ;  thence 
through  the  valley  of  the  White  River  to  Montpelier ; 
by  Onion  River  to  Lake  Champlain ;  and  thence  to 
Ogdensburg.  The  last  section,  which  has  been  sur- 
veyed for  a  state  road,  is  peculiarly  favourable. 

After  a  survey  made  for  a  railroad  to  Providence, 
by  the  authority  of  the  Legislature,  a  report  was  made, 
stating  that  there  are  two  practicable  routes,  neither 
of  which  would  oflTer  an  elevation  above  thirty  feet  in 
a  mile,  except  one  short  section.  Estimated  expense, 
J5350,000.     (See  page  312.) 

Plymouth,  36  miles  S,  S,  E.  from  Boston. 

This  place  is  highly  interesting  from  its  history,  be- 
ing the  site  of  the  first  settlement  made  by  the  New- 
England  Pilgrims  in  1620,  on  the  22d  of  December. 
A  mass  of  granite  rock  is  still  shown  on  which  those 
stepped  who  first  landed.    It  has  been  divided,  and  a 

J)art  of  it  remains  buried  near  the  shore  in  its  natural 
ocation,  while  the  upper  part  ia  removed  into  the  centre 
of  the  village. 

A  handsome  building  was  erected  here  in  1820,  in 
which  the  New-England  Society  hold  their  annual 
celebrations  of  that  interesting  era  in  the  history  of  the 
country,  fiurying  Hill,  which  rises  near  at  hand,  is 
the  spot  where  a  small  fort  was  erected  by  the  settlers, 


Coc 

be  ma 

in  set 

the  ci 

In  t 

mis 

Canad 
more 

Wind.' 

ihortes 
leads  t\ 
these, 
the  tolU 


»\. 


KOUTEri    111031    BOSTON. 


9^r» 


and  where  the  graves  of  several  of  them  are  still  to  he 
found.  The  banks  of  the  brook  south  of  the  hill  were 
the  scene  of  the  first  conference  with  Massasoit,  a 
friendly  and  faithful  Indian  chief,  from  whom  the  name 
of  the  Bay,  and  subsequently  that  of  the  state  was 
derived.  Manumet  point  is  a  promontory  on  the  i-outh 
side  of  the  harbour ;  and  a  small  island  on  the  opposite 
of  it  was  the  spot  where  the  pilgrims  first  placetf  their 
feet  on  shore  m  this  vicinity,  afier  having  previously 
landed  on  Cape  Cod. 

The  vouDg  and  feeble  colony  suffered  extreme  dis- 
tresses here,  from  the  severity  of  the  climate,  (against 
which  they  were  unpreparea,  as  they  had  sailed  for  a 
more  southern  region,)  and  the  want  of  provisions. 
Nothing  but  the  assistance  of  Massasoit  preserved  them 
from  extinction. 

SandwichyZ  favourite  resort  for  fishing  and  sea  air,  is 
a  few  miles  belov/  Plymouth.  There  isa  good  inn  kept 
by  Mr.  Swift. 

Routes  fkom  Boston. 

Coaches  sco  in  so  many  directions,  that  a  choice  may 
be  made  between  a  great  many,  all  of  them  pleasant; 
in  setting  out  for  a  tour  to  the  westward,  or  towards 
the  city  of  New-York  : 

In  the  first  place,  the  noble  scenery  of  the  IVliite 
nuts  may  be  taken  in  the  way  to  Late  Champlain, 
Canada,  the  Springs,  or  Niagara ;  or  in  makiiig  the 
more  circumscribed  route  of  Connecticut  River. 
Next,  those  who  choose  a  more  direct  way,  may  avail 
themselves  of  the  road  through  Concord,  Keene,  and 
Windsor ;  or  its  branches  to  Charlestown  or  Walpole. 
The  last  is  now  much  travelled,  as  it  is  one  of  the 
shortest  routes  between  Boston  and  the  Springs,  and 
leads  through  a  number  of  interesting  places.  Besides 
these,  are  the  roads  to  Albany  or  the  Springs,  through 
the  following  different  places  :  Brattlohorough,  Bloody 
l^ror)k.  Greonfiold,  Northampton,  (and  New-Lebanon ;) 


3ii0 


ItOUTlIS    FKOM    UOST0>. 


Springfield  and  Hartford.  Of  these  different  route?, 
it  is  difficult  to  make  choice  of  any  one  to  recommend 
in  general.  Many  have  particular  objects  in  view, 
and  some  will  have  less  time  at  their  disposal.  To 
strangers,  however,  it  will  be  proper  to  remark  once 
more,  that  the  route  of  Connecticut  River  presents  at 
once  a  scene  of  fertility,  population,  good  habits,  and 
intelligence,  on  the  whole,  superior  to  any  other  tract 
of  country,  of  equal  extent,  in  the  United  States ;  with 
correspondent  accommodations  for  travellers.  The 
sceneiy  is  rich  and  varying,  and  cannot  fail  to  please, 
wherever  it  is  seen;  but  those  who  can  first  pass 
through  the  Notch  in  the  White  Mountains,  will  find 
its  beauties  greatly  enhanced  by  the  contrast.  Since 
the  devastation  caused  by  the  nood  in  1826,  the  road 
has  been  so  much  repaired  as  to  be  very  good :  and 
great  improvements  have  been  made  at  E.  A.  Craw< 
lord's,  in  the  ascent  of  Mount  Washiilgton  and  in  ac- 
commodations. At  Hadley  and  Northampton,  is  the 
most  beautiful  part  of  the  whole  river ;  and  for  the 
other  routes,  we  can  only  refer  to  the  Index  for  the 
descriptions  of  the  principal  towns  through  which  they 
pass. 

East  of  Boston,  the  country  is  of  a  different,  and  too 
often  of  an  opposite  character,  presenting  a  few  objects 
of  importance,  except  the  seaports  through  whicn  the 
chief  road  passes. 

There  is  a  line  of  Steamboats  to  Maine  and  JSCew- 
Brunswick. 

The  Road  to  Portland  and  through  the  most  popu- 
lous part  of  the  state  of  Maine  will  be  given ;  but 
being  of  less  interest  to  most  travellers  from  this  city, 
will  be  placed  towards  the  end  of  the  volume,  while 
we  turn  our  attention  to  the  principal  roiitos  leading 
w^st  and  north  from  Boston. 


KOVT£    FROM    KOSTUIV  TO    IVEW-lEBAJsION.    331 


To  Albany  through  Worcester,  Northamp- 
Tow,  AND  Lebanon  Springs. 

WatertowTti  like  almost  all  the  villages  in  the  vicinity 
of  Boston,  presents  many  neat  countiy  seats  and  an 
aspect  of  rural  beauty  and  fertility. 

Framingham.  Here  is  a  large  and  well  kept  hotel, 
where  the  stage  coaches  stop,  and  a  place  of  great  re- 
sort.   (80  m.  from  Boston.) 

Worcester,  20  m.     {See  Index.)    Leicester, 
9  m.     Spencer,  6  m. 

Brookfield,  This  was  one  of  the  towns  earliest 
settled  in  this  part  of  the  country,  dating  as  far  back 
as  Nov.  10,  1665 ;  and  for  several  years  the  only 
towns  on  the  west  were  Hadley,  Northampton,  &c. 
while  there  was  no  white  settlement  between  it  and 
Canada.  The  stage  coach  passes  over  a  lon^  hill  in 
West  Brookfield,  which  commands  an  extensive  pros- 
pect ;  and  this  was  the  place  Where  the  settlement 
began.  A  few  yards  west  of  a  white  house  on  the 
north  side  of  the  road,  was  a  house  built  for  defence, 
and  though  of  little  strength,  was  called  the  Fort.  In 
August,  1675,  this  place  was  suddenly  beset  by  seve- 
ral nundred  savages.  The  inhabitants  had  been  im- 
posed upon  by  the  appearance  of  friendliness  shown 
by  the  Hassenemesit  Indians,  and  on  their  way  to  their 
fort,  a  few  miles  distant,  were  ambushed  and  pursued, 
so  that  they  barely  escaped.  The  house  in  which 
Ihey  all  assembled  was  besieged,  and  was  several 
limes  in  imminent  danger.  On  one  occasion  a  cart, 
loaded  with  hemp,  &c.  and  set  on  tire,  was  pushed  up 
to  the  house  with  long  poles,  when  a  sudden  shower 
came  up,  in  time  to  extinguish  the  flames.  The  for- 
tunate arrival  of  Capt.  Mosely,  with  a  small  troop  of 
horsemen,  delivered  the  inhabitants,  and  drove  away 
the  savagf  s.     All  the  houses  having  been  burned,  and 


3.32   KouTE  ritoitt  liusTo;^   jo  .nlu-lbijaaok.- 

the  war  soon  beginnin!?  lo  rngo  ^viih  violence,  the  set ' 
tJement  was  evacuated. 

The  old  well  still  rt'.inains  which  belonged  to  the 
fort  or  blockhouse  ;  and  there  is  a  rock  in  a  wall,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  road,  from  behind  which  an 
Indian  sliot  one  of  the  men,  who  came  out  to  draw 
water  during  the  siege. 

The  present  village  is  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill,  and 
is  pleasantly  situated,  with  several  ponds  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, which,  with  the  tish  and  towl  they  furnished, 
■were  the  principal  attraction  of  the  savages,  who 
were  very  numerous  in  this  tract  of  country.  These 
ponds  give  rise  to  the  Quabaug  river,  which,  after  a 
course  of  some  miles,  takes  the  name  of  Chicopee, 
and  joins  the  Connecticut  at  Springfield.  This  is  the 
stream  which  it  has  been  proposed  to  connect  with 
Boston  Bay  by  a  canal,  and  also  by  another  with  the 
Thames  at  Norwich,  in  Connecticut. 

Four  nriiles  east  of  Brookfield  you  reach  a  height  of 
land,  which  affords  a  varied  and  extensive  view,  with 
a  succession  of  hilly  country  immediately  around  you. 

Ware  Factory  Village 

is  situated  in  a  little  valley,  with  an  excellent  inn.  The 
rocks  and  woods  give  an  air  of  wildness  to  the  water 
fall,  in  their  natural  state,  and  the  place  is  now  quite 
picturesque,  when  a  rustic  cottage,  the  residence  of 
the  agent,  is  taken  into  view. 

A  few  years  since  there  were  only  five  buildings ;  and 
now  there  is  a  cotton  factory,  containing  2,000  spindles, 
and  56  looms ;  another  with  4^500  spindles,  and  150 
looms;  a  third,  of  the  size  of  the  latter;  a  flannel 
manufactory,  in  which  are  made  15  pieces  per  week  ; 
dye,  wool  houses,  machine,  blacksmith's,  cabinet 
makers*,  and  various  other  shops ;  grist  and  saw  mill.«. 
a  furnace,  &c.     But  it  is  on  its  decline. 

Belchertown,  9  miles. 

AmhersU  7  miles.  The  shortest  road  to KojlluunptoL 
does  not  pa^  U'*;  CeJksce,    iSfp  hcho:.^ 


m 


LEXtmiTOlSi 


J33 


hploL 


HadteVj  5  miles.         •■>>-■■«]  -.^J  "  •  b^di'^^rr  r.wu.^ 


ROUTE  FROM  BOSTON  TO  THE  WHITE 
MOUNTAINS. 


The  first  day's  journey  is  to  Concord  or  Douer,  both  .  * 
in  New-Hampshire.  The  former  route  is  recom-'|J 
mended.  * 

There  are  three  roads  to  Concord,  on  all  which  f,^ 
there  are  stage  coaches.  (All  necessary  information  '^^ 
concerning  them,  can  be  readily  obtained  at  the  Hotels.V  *  j; 

The  first  is  through  Cambridge,  (where  is  Harvara;-  ] 
University f  see  Index,)  and  Lexington. 

The  second  is  through  Charlestown*  and  joins  the^' 
other  on  the  Merrimack.  '  :     '  p  V   ;  •  '  :i  v/ 

The  third  is  through  Andorver  and  liaDerhitt,  Mass. ' ; 

The  distance  is  irom  68  to  70  miles,  and  the  tare  $3  50. 

Besides  these  there  is  a  boat  on  the  Middlesex  Canal, 
which  has  heretofore  left  the  upper  locks  in  Charles- ^^^^ 
town,  (two  miles  from  Boston),  three  times  a  week,J* 
nnd  goes  to  Chelmsford  in  about  nine  hours  :  28  miles, '|' 
passage  75  cents.  This  mode  is  not  particularly  re-;/ 
commended,  ^^ 

Several  places  on  these  roads  will  be  pailicularized. 


Lexington 


(.. 


is  remarkable  as  the  place  where  the  fir^t  blood  was  shed  |,  V^ 
in  the  Revolutionaiy  war.  On  the  19th  of  April,  1776,  '^ 
Gen.  Gage  sent  a  l)ody  of  troops  from  Boston,  to  seize  ''; 
a  powder  house  at  Concord,  belonging  to  the  colony  ;'!,' 
and  the  inhabitants  were  warned  of  his  design,  by  an^^.' 
express  despatched  by  the  Hon.  Joseph  Warren.  Th€l  ^  • 
militia  were  called  out,  but,  the  alarm  subsiding,  they 'r| 
were  dismissed,  with  orders,  however,  to  hold  them  •^Y 
selves  in  readiness.  The  t-nemy  unexpectedly  made  7; ; 
their  appearance  at  half  past  4,  coming  on  at  a  quiclf:^'"' 
step,  within  a  mile  and  a  quarter  of  the  church.  Th^^ 
alarm  guns  were  fired,  drums  beat,  and  60  or  60  miti" 

Ff 


334        BOSTON    TO    TII£    WHITE    .>lUi;;NTAlM!i. 

tiamen  assembled  on  the  parade.  The  British  brigade 
halted  about  120  yards  from  the  church  to  load,  and 
then  passing  the  east  end  of  the  building,  discovered 
the  Americans,  who  were  ordered  at  the  moment,  by 
their  commander,  Capt.  Parker,  to  "disperse,  and 
take  care  of  themselves,"  but  **  not  to  fire."  As  some 
of  them  loitered,  the  British  troops  rushed  towards 
them,  huzzaing.  Major  Pitcairn  tired  a  pistol  at  them, 
when  about  30  yards  distant,  after  they  had  been 
called  "rebels,"  and  ordered  them  to  lay  down  their 
arms  and  disperse.  Another  officer,  who  was  within 
a  few  yards  of  them,  then  brandished  his  sword,  and 
ordered  the  troops  to  "  firey"  which  was  obeyed  at  the 
second  order ;  and  the  tire  being  returned,  it  was  kept 
up  on  the  dispersing  men  until  they  had  all  disappeared. 
Eight  were  killed,  and  ten  wounded.  (Gen.  Gage 
falsely  stated  that  the  British  were  tirst  tired  upon.) 

After  the  regulars  had  tired  a  volley,  from  the  green 
behind  the  church,  and  given  three  cheers,  they  pro- 
ceeded to  Concord.  On  their  return,  being  hard 
pressed  by  sharp  shooters,  they  burned  three  houses,  a 
shop,  and  a  barn,  killed  three  more  men,  and  wounded 
one. 


Andover 

is  a  small  village,  situated  on  high  ground,  20  miles 
from  Boston,  remarkable  for  the  rhilips  Academy  and 
Theological  Seminary,  which  are  three-fourths  of  a 
mile  east  from  it,  on  the  summit  of  the  ascent.  There 
are  three  lai^e  brick  buildings,  belonging  to  the  Semi- 
naiy,  which  make  a  conspicuous  figure  from  different 
parts  of  the  surrounding  country,  and  command  a 
view  of  great  extent,  bounded  on  the  west  by  the 
Temple  Hills  in  New-Hampshire,  backed  by  the 
Monadnoc,  about  60  miles  off;  and  on  the  south  by  the 
Blue  Hills.  A  litvl<»  elevation  near  by  affords  a  view 
of  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  from  about  Newburyport  to 
L ape  Ann,  v'ith  pari  nf  Salem;  and  north-west  is  a 


hUWKLt. 


335 


<iistant  peak,  which  is  supposed  to  be  A&cutney,  in 
Vermont. 

The  academical  buildings  are  distinguished  by  the 
names  of  Philips  Hall,  Bartlett  Hall,  and  the  Chapel, 
in  the  upper  part  of  the  latter  is  a  library  of  6  or  9000 
volumes.  The  Professors'  houses  are  opposite,  with 
a  spacious  green  interveninf^  between  the  Seminary 
and  the  street ;  and  there  is  also  a  large  inn.  The 
Academy  and  Seminary  are  not  connected,  although 
they  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  same  board. 
The  term  of  instruction  in  the  latter  embraces  three 
years.  The  number  of  students  in  the  former,  in  1828, 
was  108.  > 


;>  « 


Haverhill 


/./I'j' 


>      it; 


is  a  small  town,  but  pleasantly  situated,  on  the  north 
bank  of  the  Merrimack,  the  snores  of  which,  for  some 
distance  below,  present  a  beautiful  and  fertile  slope  to 
the  water.  A  draw-bridge  crosses  the  river,  with  a 
roof  to  protect  it  from  the  weather. 


■t^  V^  ";,; 


Lowell, 


i  '■■.■\i- 


i'. 


12  miles  from  Boston.  This  has  been  one  of  the 
greatest  manufacturing  places  In  the  United  States,  and 
one  of  the  most  astonishing  rapidity  of  growth.  No 
longer  ago  than  1813  the  first  cotton  factory  was 
erected  here,  which  cost  only  about  {3,000.  Larger 
ones  were  founded  in  1818;  and  two  years  after,  the 
**  Merrimack  Manufacturing  Company^'  made  a  pur- 
chase of  buildings  and  ground,  with  toe  determination 
to  take  advantage  of  the  extensive  water  power  which 
nature  has  granted  to  the  place.  The  falls  are  30  feet 
high,  and  a  little  below  the  spot  where  the  Middlesex 
canal  commences,  leading  to  Chariestown,  near  Boston ; 
and  round  them  the  Company  improved  an  old  canal, 
(at  the  expense  of  $120,000,;  for  the  supply  of  their 
water  wheel?.     There  is  power  enough  for  50  factcf- 


a3t> 


BOSTON    TO   TUB   WHITE    MOU.NTAliN.-'. 


rjcs  with  3,500  spindles  each.  The  place  now  pre- 
sents the  aspect  of  a  large  villa&fe,  laid  out  and  built 
,  with  rcmarKable  uniformity.  The  number  of  facto- 
ries iH  sixy  one  having  been  lately  burned,  each  con- 
taining 3,500  spindles.    They  are  reKularly  disposed, 

4  with  the  avenues  between  the  habitations  abutting 
against  the  yard.  In  1827  they  used  about  450,000 
lbs.  of  cotton,  and  made  about  two  million  yards  of 

;, cloth :  three-fourths  of  which  was  d>ed  or  printed  at  a 
neighbouring  establishment.  There  is  also  a  large 
machine  shop  near  at  hand.  There  had  been  invested, 
in  1828,  nearly  two  and  a  half  millions  of  dollars.  The 
number  of  persons  employed  in  1828  was  about  1,600. 
In  1829,  great  calamities  befell  this,  as  well  as  many 
other  large  manufacturing  establishments  in  the  country. 
Great  failures  took  place,  work  people  lost  their  em- 
ployment, and  a  general  depression  occurred,  from 
which  the  recovery  must  be  gradual.  The  manufac- 
tories of  New-England,  with  few  exceptions,  present 
far  less  activity  than  at  the  period  when  the  last  edi- 
tion of  the  Northern  Traveller  was  published. 

Chelmsford  is  one  of  the  principal  manufacturing 
places  in  the  United  States. 

Manufactories  in  New-Hampshire.  So  recently  as 
1810  there  were  but  12  cotton  manufactories  in  this  state, 
with  5956  spindles ;  and  only  about  two  million  yards 
of  woollen,  cotton,  flaxen,  and  tow  cloth  were  made  in 
them  and  in  private  families  during  that  year.  The 
number  of  cotton  and  woollen  manufactories  was,  in 
1827,  more  than  50 ;  and  the  cloth  made  was  about  30 
millions  of  yards.  But  great  misfortunes  have  since 
occurred. 

Great  Falls  Village  is  a  village  five  miles  above 
Dover,  belonging  to  the  town  o?  Somerworth,  of  60 
or  70  dwellings,  built  within  a  few  months,  and  four 
manufactories.  One  of  these  is  for  cotton,  with  1500 
spindles,  and  makes  7000  yards  No.  20  in  a  week. 
One  tor  woollen,  156  feet  long,  with  near  6000  spin- 
dles, and  makes  16,000  or  18,000  yards  of  No.  40 


CO!»iC'ORl>. 


:^6' 


weekly.    One  is  for  broadcloth,  220  feet  long;  and 
another,  390  feet  long,  for  cotton  and  woollen. 


Nashua  Village, 


>fl 


i^',i<'  i 


in  Dunstable,  33  miles  from  Concord.  The  fall  in  the 
Nashua  river  is  65  feet,  and  the  power  e(}ual  to  about 
65,000  spindles.  Here  are  some  astonishing  improve* 
ments.  In  1825  there  were  two  great  manufactories, 
each  155  feet  by  48,  one  for  cotton  and  the  other  for 
woollen,  with  a  dye  house  150  by  48,  a  wood  house 
and  machine  shop  250  by  30, 8tc. 

The  buildings  for  the  work  people  form  small  and. 
regular  villages. 

Dover.        i 

This  is  one  of  the  principal  towns  in  the  state,*  and 
contains  several  manufactories,  although  the  supply  of 
water  is  by  no  means  abundant  at  all  seasons.  In 
crossing  the  bridge  there  are  seen  three  large  manu- 
factories, each  about  two  hundred  feet  in  length ;  and 
the  foundation  of  a  fourth  was  laid  in  1825,  although 
the  contracted  space  afforded  on  the  banks  required 
the  blasting  out  of  a  great  quantity  of  rock  for  the 
foundation  and  sluiceways. 

About  five  miles  above  Dover,  at  Salmon  River 
Falls,  is  a  village  containing  four  manufactories,  of 
different  sizes,  from  63  to  390  feet  in  length,  and  of 
five  and  six  stories  in  height. 


CONCORD  ' 

is  the  capital  of  New-Hampshire,  and  a  veiy  fine 
add  flourishing  town.    It  is  much  the  largest  the  tra- 


*  The  total  of  the  militia  of  New- Hampshire  is  28,415  mea,  viz :  iiir 
fantry,  light  infantry,  and  grenadiers,  1^,491 ;  ca?sdiy,  1,529;  artillery, 
1.639;  riflemen.  756.  _^ 

F  f  2 


338 


BOSTON    TO    THE    WHITE    MOUJiTAIKS. 


veller  will  see  before  reaching  the  White  Mountains, 
and  for  a  great  distance  beyond  them. 

fn/w.— The  two  principal  stage  houses,  just  south  of 
the  state  house,  are  large  and  commodious — that  next 
the  state  house  is  particularly  recommended.  There 
are  several  others  above  and,  below,  though  of  much 
inferior  pretensions. 

The  town  is  situated  principally  on  one  street,  which 
is  of  a  great  length  and  very  convenient  breadth,  with 
manjr  respectable  houses ;  and  runs  parallel  with  the 
MerrimacK,  which  is  at  only  a  short  distance  on  the 
cast. 

The  State  House  occupies  a  conspicuous  situation 
near  the  middle  of  the  towrr,a  little  removed  from  the 
street,  and  surrounded  by  a  handsome  stone  wall,  en- 
closing an  area.  It  is  built  of  hewn  granite  from  the 
quarry,  and  is  a  neat  edifice,  100  feet  long,  with  a 
large  hall  on  the  first  floor,  and  on  the  second  the 
Senate  and  Representatives' Chambers,  with  the  com- 
mittee rooms,  state  offices,  &c.  &c.  The  view  from 
the  top  is  extensive,  but  embraces  a  tract  of  country 
too  little  cultivated  to  be  rich,  and  too  unvaried  to  be 
picturesque.  At  the  northward  are  seen  two  or  three 
distinct  peaks,  which  may  serve  as  an  earnest  of  the 
magnificent  scenery  to  be  presented  to  the  traveller  in 
that  direction. 

The  State  Prison  is  built  at  a  short  distance  from 
the  State  House,  and  bears  a  still  greater  appearance 
of  solidity  and  strength. 

There  is  an  Academy  in  Concord,  with  several 
churches.     Several  newspapers  are  printed  here,  and 

fazettes  from  distant  places  may  be  found  at  the  inns, 
'armer  &  Moore's  Gazetteer  of  New-Hampshire  is 
the  best  companion  for  a  traveller  in  this  state.  In 
1828,  the  Legislature  of  New-Hampshire  divided  the 
literary  fund  among  the  towns,  to  be  appropriated  by 
them  according  to  their  discretion. 

From  what  may  have  been  observed  of  the  granite 
rocks  along  the  road,  the  stranger  must  have  admired 


f,W'^*«»w* I  «f |i  jm  Hi«  1  ipifiuf |,^^p Jill 


'  ^  »)!«.  ^^I»iii^'»  ' 


CONCORD. 


339 


their  superior  quality,  and  the  freedom  and  precision 
of  their  fracture,  wherever  the  wedge  is  judiciously 
applied.  Great  quantities  have  been  transported  to 
Boston,  and  other  cities  farther  distant,  for  building 
stone.  A  large  rock,  which  was  cut  in  pieces  in  1823, 
sold  for  J6,129  in  Boston.  This  single  rock  made 
10,500  feet  of  facing  stone  and  ornamental  work — 
and  the  aggregate  weight  of  all  the  blocks  (smooth 
hewn)  was  550  tons,  it  having  lost  only  50  tons  in 
being  prepared  for  the  market,  after  it  was  brought  to 
the  prison  yard.  The  fine  blocks  broken  out  of  the 
old  Doulders,  for  the  posts  of  fences,  as  well  as  for 
steps,  mill  stones,  &c.  must  have  shown  the  excellence 
of  the  granite  of  this  part  of  the  country.  The  same 
characteristics,  in  greater  or  less  degrees,  will  be 
found  to  attend  the  whole  of  the  granite  range  of  the 
White  Mountains,  till  its  last  appearance  about  Bath, 
on  Connecticut  river.  It  is  uncommon,  in  this  part  of 
the  country,  to  find  a  single  rock  formation  extending 
such  a  distance  without  any  interruption.  To  what 
diflferent  dates  geologists  may  hereafter  refer  the 
coarsest  varieties  on  Mount  Washington,  the  disinte- 
s^rating  rocks  of  Red  Mountain,  the  boulders  of 
Winnipiseogee  Lake,  interspersed  with  their  crystals 
of  felfjpar  three  or  four  inches  in  length,  and  the 
white,  fine  grained  granite  of  Concord  and  Chelmsford, 
it  is  not  for  the  hasty  traveller  to  inquire.  Doubtless 
many  interesting  facts  will  be  elucidated,  when  scien- 
tific men  shall  devote  their  researches  to  the  subject, 
and  trace  the  boulders  along  the  Ammonoosuc  and 
VVinnipiseogee  Lake,  to  the  rocks  and  mountains  from 
which  some  long  past  convulsion  has  torn  them  away. 
The  Merrimack  River  has  been  rendered  naviga- 
ble, by  various  improvements,  from  Con«ord  to 
Chelmsfordj  where  the  Middlesex  Canal  opens  a  com- 
munication directly  to  Boston,  28  miles.  Small  manu- 
facturing villages  succeed  each  other  along  the  banks 
wherever  the  canals  round  the  falls  and  rapids  afford 
water-power.      Some   of  them  we   have   noticed 


0 


340         BOSTON  TO  THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 

In  1825  a  plan  was  formed  for  extending  the  improve- 
ments, and  to  render  the  river  navigable  toNewbury- 
port,  on  the  coast,  by  making  a  canal  round  the  falis» 
near  Haverhill.  The  expense  was  estimated  at 
^300,000,  and  it  was  believed  that  the  sale  of  water 
privileges  would  repay  a  large  part  of  the  sum. 

A  direct  water  communication  is  kept  up  between 
this  river  and  Boston,  through  the  Middlesex  Canal, 
by  means  of  boats,  which  carry  merchandise  down 
for  $5  a  ton,  and  bring  it  up  for  $7. 

Roads.  ^ 

Several  lines  of  stage  coaches  meet  in  this  town 
three  times  a  week.  Three  go  to  Boston,  one  to 
Portsmouth,  one  to  Plymouth,  one  to  Haverhill,  and 
one  to  Burlington,  bj  the  way  of  Windsor.  Another 
line  has  been  established  between  this  place  and  Con- 
way, on  the  road  to  the  J^otch  in  the  Mountains. 

{From  Plymouth  a  stage  wagon  ffoes  through  Fran- 
conia  Notch  to  Littleton.  The  road  follows  the  Pemi- 
gewasset,  through  fine,  magnificent  scenery.  The 
country,  however,  is  almost  uninhabited  until  reach- 
ing Franconia,  where  are  iron  works,  and  a  curious 
Srofile  on  a  mountain,  called  the  Old  Man  of  the 
[ountain.  (See  Index,  Franconia.)  There  is  an  ex- 
cellent inn  at  Littleton :  the  new  brick  one.  The 
place  ib  about  40  miles  from  Plymouth.] 

[Two  routes  have  been  proposed  for  connecting  the 
Merrimack  and  Connecticut :  Lst,  by  Baker's  River 
to  Wentworth ;  and  2d,  by  way  of  Sunapee  Lake, 
810  feet  above  the  Connecticut,  and  858  above  the 
Merrimack  at  Concord.] 

There  is  a  road  on  each  side  of  the  lake  towards 
Conway,  but  that  on  the  west  is  recommended.  At 
all  events,  the  traveller  should  spend  a  day  at  Centre 
Harbour,  to  which  the  road  is  pleasant  and  the  coun- 
tiy  agreeable,  although  there  are  but  few  villages  on 
the  way. 


~" "^"*'t  ¥V\      .■,- 


■f^' 


WINNIFISEOGEE    LAK£. 


341 


Two  roads  from  Concord  lead  to  Meredith  Bridge 
Villap;e — (Badger's)  24  miles  distant ;  one  by  Sand- 
bomton  bridge  (Tilton's),  15  miles — the  other  by  the 
Shaker  village  (Shaker's  Inn  and  CoggswelFs),  12 
miles. 

From  M.  B.  Village,  delightfully  situated  between 
two  bays,  and  on  the  beautiful  river  that  never  freezes, 
it  is  nine  miles  to  the  shore  of  the  Lake  at  Meredith 
Cove,  and  thirteen  to  Centre  Harbour.  (Center's  and 
Moulton's.) 

For  some  miles  before  reaching  that  place,  the 
country  begins  to  assume  the  features  of  bold  and 
mountain  scenery.  Even  before  arriving  at  the  lake, 
the  prospect  is  varied  with  many  of  those  noble  ele* 
vations  which  rise  to  such  a  height  of  grandeur  and 
sublimity  as  the  traveller  proceeds ;  and  the  frequent 
glimpses  afforded  between  the  sloping  hills,  over  the 
beautiful  lake  below,  by  a  happy  contrast  increase 
the  effect. 

WINNIPISEOGEE  LAKE. 

The  number  and  diversity  of  the  islands  with  which 
the  lake  is  spangled,  will  be  objects  of  particular  ad- 
miration. They  are  countless  for  multitude,  and  in 
size  present  all  gradations  between  a  single  rock 
and  a  surface  sufiurient  for  several  extensive  farms. 
Iron  ore  is  found  in  Gunstock  Mountain,  south  of  the 
lake. 

If  a  steamboat  should  be  placed  on  Winnipiseogee 
Lake,  the  traveller  hardly  need  be  advised  to  take 
advantage  of  it  to  make  an  excursion.  A  company 
was  to  be  formed  with  this  object. 

Centre  Habbovr. 

There  are  two  inns  here,  at  either  of  which  the  tra- 
veller may  find  himself  comfortable,  and  /here  be 
will  be  amply  rewarded,  if  the  weather  be  fine,  by 


^T 


^     „^^ v-y.^ 


342 


BOSTOiS  TO  THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 


stopping^  at  least  a  day  to  make  an  excursion  to  the 
top  of 

Red  Mountain. 

This  eminence  may  be  about  1500  feet  in  height, 
and  is  accessible  for  about  two-thirds  of  the  way  m  a 
carriage  or  on  horseback,  though  not  without  some 
difficulty  on  account  of  the  steepness  and  roughness 
of  the  road.  Indeed,  the  path  is  very  rocky  for  half  a 
mile  or  more  before  reaching  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tain, and  the  hardy  pedestrian  will  prefer  to  leave  his 
horse  at  the  main  road,  before  turning  off  by  the  mill. 
The  traveller  should  direct  his  course  towards  a  little 
notch  he  will  see  about  three-quarters  of  the  distance 
up,  where  a  cultivated  field  and  a  fence  are  visible. 
From  the  house  situated  there,  he  must  turn  towards 
the  left,  and  follow  a  path  to  the  summit. 

An  early  visit  is  recommended,  as  the  scene  is  much 
improved  by  an  oblique  li^ht,  and  the  morning  is  on 
several  accounts  to  be  preferred. 

The  following  sketch  of  the  scene  was  noted  down 
on  the  spot,  and  may  be  taken  as  generally  correct. 

Norths  the  eastern  end  of  Squam  Lake,  and  part  of 
a  pond  lying  near  it,  with  the  range  of  the  Sandwich 
Mountains  behind,  stretching  off  towards  the  east,  with 
numerous  dark  brown  pea&s,  partl}r  cultivated  about 
their  bases,  and  enveloped  above  with  forests,  except- 
ing their  summits,  which  are  generally  divested  of 
verdure.  Far  beyond  these  appear  several  loftier 
peaks,  which  might  be  mistaken  for  the  White  Moun- 
tains, were  they  visible  from  this  point.  An  interme- 
diate peak  with  rocky  precipices  may  be  White-faced 
Mountain, 

East-North'East.  The  eye  ranges  up  the  spacious 
valley  through  which  lies  the  way  to  the  White  Moun- 
tains ;  and  the  road  which  is  to  conduct  the  traveller 
seems  diminished  to  the  dimensions  of  a  garden  walk. 
Choca^ay,  or,  as  it  i«  familiarly  called,  Corrnn'ay 


Peak 
Ossip 
and  i 
mous 
beaut 
lots  ai 
croaci 
sue  tf 
their  i 
distan 
the  p( 
finally 
its  reir 
and  r€ 
less  dii 
by  the 
Lovel  I 
."ind  the 
in  that 
retreat. 
East. 
and  no 
South 
llie  righ 
lies  cha 
rous  poi 
tiful  isia 
distant 
sloping 
alon^  tl 
^ed  m  a 
to  the 
points  . 
Jabyrint 
tain  rise! 
which  CI 
The  ele 
Island,  n 
^f  a  bourn 


"  |iw  1  iP'U*V'T'J^'i™'i^n»*TWiA  ,.Iil!T(i«ii|.  I 


VIEW   FKOM  UEO   MOUM'AIIV. 


.545 


Peak,  rises  on  the  left ;  while  the  noble  ridge  of  the 
Ossipee  Mountains  begins  nearer  at  hand  on  the  rights 
and  almost  overshadows  the  observer  with  its  enor- 
mous size.  The  sides  of  these  mountains  show  a 
beautiful  display  of  farms,  interspersed  with  wood- 
lots  and  dwell ingSt  which  in  many  places  have  en* 
croached  far  towards  the  summits,  and  in  others  pur- 
sue the  slope  of  the  fertile  uplands  to  the  valley  at 
their  feet.  Numerous  elevations  appear  at  a  greater 
distance,  and  range  themselves  in  lines  to  complete 
the  perspective  of  a  must  magniiicent  vista,  which 
finally  closes  at  a  ridge,  whose  shade  is  reduced  by 
its  remoteness  to  the  colour  of  a  cloud.  A  prominent 
and  remarkable  mountain,  which  appears  scarcely 
less  distant,  is  called  Pickwacket  Mountain,  and  rises 
by  the  Saco  River,  near  the  place  where  Captain 
Lovel  fought  his  well-known  battle  with  the  Indians  ; 
and  the  fine  valley  between  is  the  countiy  passed  over 
in  that  fatal  expedition,  both  in  the  approach  and  the 
retreat. 

East.  The  view  abuts  upon  the  Ossipee  Mountains, 
and  no  variety  is  afforded  until  we  turn  to  the 

South-South'East,  In  that  direction,  and  farther  to 
the  right,  the  whole  surface  of  Winnipiscogee  Lake 
lies  charmingly  spread  out  to  view,  varied  by  nume- 
rous points  and  headlands,  and  interspersed  with  beau- 
tiful islands  which  man  despairs  to  number.  Several 
distant  elevations  appear,  on  this  side  of  which  the 
sloping  land  just  mentioned  extends  for  several  miles 
along  the  shore,  with  a  well-cultivaj.ed  surface  spot- 
ted in  all  directions  with  large  barns  and  farm-houses, 
to  the  very  margin  of  the  lake.  There  numerous 
points  run  out  far  into  the  water,  to  complete  the 
labyrinths  formed  by  the  islands.  Gunstock  Moun- 
tain rises  one  point  east  of  south,  just  on  the  lett  of 
which  opens  the  entrance  of  Merry-meeting  Bay. 
The  elevated  land  on  the  right  of  that  is  RattlesnaKe 
Island,  named  from  the  venomous  reptiles  with  which 
Jt  abounds ;  over  this  the  distant  land  appears  high 


o 


>44 


JiOSTON  TO  THE  WHITE  MOU2NTA1K6. 


South-b^-west  rises  a  high  hill  resembling  the  Ossipee 
in  the  richness  of  its  slopes. 

The  South'West  and  West  is  agreeably  varied  with 
wood-lots  and  cleared  fields,  scattered  over  an  undu- 
lated surface^  which  extends  for  many  miles,  in  some 
places  quite  to  the  horizon,  and  in  others  to  the  broken 
boundary  of  tall  but  distant  mountains.  In  the  south- 
west appear  two  or  three  peaks,  so  far  removed  that 
they  are  almost  lost  in  the  blue  of  the  sky.  Nearly 
west  are  seen  several  ridges  of  inferior  magnitude, 
which,  approaching  as  the  eye  slowly  moves  towards 
the  left,  at  length  come  near  the  lake,  and  disappear 
behind  the  neighbouring  mountains. 

Long  Pond  may  be  distinguished  by  its  shining  sur- 
face between  the  west  and  south,  with  several  other 
little  sheets  of  water,  which  lie  in  tranquillity  under 
the  shelter  of  the  hills. 

Winnipiseogee  Lake  is  19  miles  in  length,  from  Cen« 
tre  Harbour  to  Alton,  at  the  south-eastern  extremity. 
Merry-meeting  Bay  lies  beyond.  Several  of  the 
islands  are  large,  and  contain  good  farms  and  wealthy 
inhabitants,  although  only  two  or  three  of  them  belong 
to  any  town,  or  pay  any  taxes.  Some  of  their  names 
are  Rattlesnake,  Cow,  Bear,  and  Moon  Island ;  also, 
Half  Mile,  One  Mile,  Two  Mile  Island,  &c.  &c. 
None  of  them  contain  churches ;  and  although  they 
have  no  school-houses,  yet  sufficient  attention  is  paid 
to  the  rudiments  of  education  to  render  the  children 
intelligent.'*^ 

*  VtTinnipiseogee  Lake,  according  to  surveys  made  by  Mr.  Baldwin  in 
1825,  is*  501  feet  above  the  ocean.  It  lias  |)een  proposed  to  begin  a  canal 
from  Merry-meeting  River,  at  the  south  end,  to  Dover,  a  distance  of  28 
miles,  and  to  continue  the  navigation  through  th^s  lake,  and  Long, 
Square,  and  Little  Squaw  Lakes,  to  Merrimack  i^iver,  making  in  all  a 
distance  of  65  miles  It  will  be  necessary  to  riise  the  lake  two  feet  by 
a  dan?  at  the  outlet,  and  to  cut  to  the  depth  of  about  17  feet  for  7  miles. 
The  esthiiates  have  been  made  for  a  canal  ot  these  dimensions :  25  feet 
wide  at  the  bottom,  4  feet  of  water,  with  stone  locks  12  feet  in  the  clear, 
and  82  feet  long.  It  will  require  60  locks,  which  will  cost  $5,500  each, 
and  the  cost  from  the  lake  to  Dover  is  computed  at  $590,982.  If  con- 
tinued through  the  lakes  to  Merrimack  River,  to  meet  a  canal  from 
Baker's  River,  the  expense  would  be  increased  to  about  f731.47«.    A^ 


bUUAH  LAKE. 


Mo 


Squam  Lake  lies  west  from  Red  Mountain,  and  like 
Winnipiseogee  Lake,  abounds  not  only  in  islands,  but 
in  fish  of  the  finest  descriptions.  Fine  trout  are  caught 
here  in  great  abundance,  and  of  a  size  superior  to  those 
of  the  other  lake.  The  trout  of  Winnipiseogee  Lpke 
vary  from  1  to  4  pounds  in  weight,  while  those  of 
Squam  Lake  are  between  4  and  10.  They  are  some- 
times caught  of  nearly  double  this  size ;  but  that  is 
very  uncommon.  The  trout  fishery  is  chiefly  carried 
on  durine  the  winter,  when  great  quantities  are  salted 
for  the  Ssston  market.  Perch  also  abound  very  much 
in  these  waters,  and  are  remarkably  fine.  ^  ii  #4. 

Geology.  The  sides  of  Red  Mountain  are  covered 
with  halfdecomposed  granite.  ^On  the  south-eastern 
side  of  the  lake  a  bed  of  porcelam  clay  has  been  dis- 
covered, which  is  probably  derived  from  a  similar 
source.)  The  granite  is  speckled  with  hornblende 
and  black  mica.  No  rocks  are  seen  in  situ,  except 
near  the  summit,  where  they  bear  a  gentle  dip  towards 
the  north,  and  are  slightly  tinged  with  reddish  quartz 
and  felspar. 

The  hue  of  the  shrubbery  in  autumn  has  given  the 
mountain  its  name.  The  summit  is  strewed  with  loose 
fragments ;  and  musquetoes  and  black  Jlki  often  abound 
there. 

A  few  days  may  be  spent  at  Centre  Harbour  very 
agreeably,  in  making  shooting  and  fishing  excursions 
in  the  nei^hbourhoo(^  or  in  sailing  upon  the  lake,  which 
abounds  in  the  most  interesting  variety  of  scenes.  On 
leaving  this  place  by  water,  at  the  distance  of  five  miles, 
the  White  Mountains  rise  into  view  above  the  interme- 
diate peaks,  and  continue  in  sight  quite  across  the  lake. 

A  few  deer  are  still  found  in  some  places  in  the 
neighbourhood,  but  being  protected  by  law,  and  still 
more  by  their  scarcity,  are  very  rarely  taken. 


that  point,  the  distance  from  tlie  Connecticut,  by  Baker's  River,  is  34 
miles.  Tlie  focilities  tliese  worics  would  afford  for  manufacturing  would 
be  very  valuable,  but  tbe  number  of  loclis  will  be  a  great  objection. 


s^ 


DOSTON  TO  THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 


From  Centre  Harbouk  TO  CoNWAv. 

Proceeding  north-east  from  Centre  Harbour,  yotr 
enter  the  valley  between  the  two  chains  of  mountains 
seen  from  the  top  of  Red  Mountain,  and  pass  through 
Moultonboro*  and  Tamworth.  The  surface  is  irregu- 
lar, and  much  of  the  land  uncleared  ;  but  settlements 
have  extended  far  up  the  sides  of  some  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  farms  are  occasionally  discovered  quite  at 
the  top.  The  features  of  the  scenery  are  bold  and 
striking. 

Eaton  Meeting  House.  Two  miles  northwardly 
from  this,  Ossipee  Lake  may  be  seen  by  leaving  the 
road ;  but  it  has  nothing  very  interesting  in  its  ap- 
pearance. 

Near  Atkinson^s  inn  is  the  Lead  Mine,  discovered 
three  or  four  years  since.  A  shaft  has  been  sunk 
about  50  feet,  with  a  horizontal  drift,  and  the  ore  is 
good. 

Conway,  6  miles, 

t  .  -  I   ■•  * 

At  Conway  there  is  a  house  kept  by  Mr.  Abbett, 
at  the  dividing  of  the  roads,  which  is  comfortable, 
although  heretofore  without  a  tavern  sign.  The  view 
of  the  white  Mountains  is  very  line  from  this  place, 
presenting  a  succession  of  lotty  ridges,  the  most  dis- 
tant of  which  are  the  peaks  of  Mounts  Washingtmi, 
AdamSi  Jefferson,  Madison,  Monroe,  and  ^uincy.  The 
most  prominent  elevation  on  the  right,  with  two  sum- 
mits, is  Kearsearge,  or  Pickwaket :  a  level  meadow 
lies  in  the  foreground,  with  an  isolated,  woody  hill  in 
the  middle,  and  the  Saco  River,  which  rises  on  Mount 
Washington,  and  flows  down  a  narrow  valley,  with 
many  meanderings. 

Tne  shortest  road  from  Conway  to  the  mountains 
leads  directly  to  Bartlett :  but  the  most  travelled  as 
well  as  the  most  agreeable  route  is  by  the  way  of 


(JtlALYUEATE   SPRIN6. 


347 


Fiyeburgh,  where  will  be  seen  the  beautiful  tract  of 
level  country  thmue^h  which  meanders  the  Saco  Kiveri 
and  the  great  Pickwaket  Mountain,  which  rises  from 
its  border.  That  was  the  beautiful  and  favourite  resi- 
dence of  the  nation  of  Pickwaket  Indians,  and  on  the 
bank  of  Lovei^s  Pond  was  fought  a  bloody  battle  be* 
tween  them  and  a  company  of  troops  from  Massachu- 
setts, in  the  year  1725. 

[It  is  probable  that  a  road  will  soon  be  made  round 
the  north  end  of  the  White  Mountains,  throueh  the 
town  of  Adams,  to  avoid  the  Notch.  The  land  is 
level  in  that  direction,  alon^  the  course  of  the  Andros* 
coggin,  and  the  distance  to  Lancaster  nearly  the  same. 
Whenever  it  shall  be  completed,  it  will  offer  a  very 
agreeable  route  to  the  traveller,  with  fine  views,  but 
not  so  wild  as  those  on  the  present  route. 

The  White  Mountains  are  interesting,  and  worthy 
of  attention  from  ever^  side  in  which  they  are  brought 
under  the  traveller's  view  ;  and  if  any  one  should  wish 
to  visit  them  from  the  town  of  Adams,  he  may  be 
gratified  by  pursuing  a  path  not  unfrequently  trodden 
before.  Mr.  Stephen  Meserve,  of  that  place,  has  often 
obligir^ly  favoured  strangers  with  much  useful  local  in- 
formation concerning  the  best  routes  and  the  principal 
objects  of  curiosity.  The  mountains  present  a  steep 
acclivity  in  the  direction  channelled  by  numerous 
avalanches  which  have  rushed  down  at  different  pe- 
riods. The  Pinkham  road  runs  at  their  base ;  and 
the  New  River  may  be  seen,  which  has  undergone 
transmutations  which  the  Greeks  might  have  recorded 
in  their  mythology.  It  was  thrown  out  of  its  natural 
channel  in  1776,  by  an  immense  slide,  or  avalanche ; 
and  has  been  restored  to  it  by  that  of  1826,  whose  ra- 
vages are  so  wide-spread  and  tremendous.] 

The  Chalybeate  Spring. 

Turn  off  from  the  road  to  the  west  about  3  miles 
uorth  of  Abbett's.  cross  the  Saco,  and  enter  a  fields 


348 


BOSTON  TO  THE  WHITE  ATOUMTAINS. 


where  it  is  found.  A  house  is  kept  in  the  neighbour- 
hood by  Mrs.  McMillan,  which  has  been  late^  over- 
flowing with  visiters  during  the  warm  season.  The 
countiy  abounds  in  scenes  attractive  to  persons  of 
taste.  A  ]ittle  church  is  situated  in  a  secluded  and 
romantic  valley;  and  the  place  is  destined  for  a 
fashionable  resort. 

The  place  is  off  the  road,  and  may  be  missed.  It 
is  in  a  valley,  with  mountains  on  every  side  except 
the  south-east.  From  near  the  church,  the  White 
Mountains  are  in  sight.  Two  or  three  miles  above, 
the  Saco  valley  bends  to  the  left,  and  Ellis's  River 
comes  down  a  narrower  vale  in  front.  Up  the  course 
of  this  stream  was  formerly  a  route  by  which  the 
highest  peaks  were  ascended.  A  footpath  leaves  it 
ir  Adatns,  and  goes  on  to  ShelbumenjSic.  It  is  7  miles 
to  Hairs,  in  Bartlett. 

Fryeburoh. 

The  township  of  Fryeburgh,  in  its  extent  of  six 
square  miles,  embraces  a  rich  and  beautiful  valley, 
secluded  on  every  side  by  a  wild  and  mcMntainous 
range  of  country.  The  Saco  River,  taking  its  rise  on 
Mount  Washington,  and  flowing  through  the  Notch  in 
the  White  Hills,  passes  down  the  valley  to  Conway, 
where  it  finds  the  termination  of  the  southern  range ; 
and  then  turning  abruptly  to  the  east,  soon  enters  the 
charming  meadows  of  Fryeburgh,  and  performs  a  ser- 
pentine course  of  no  less  than  36  miles  within  the 
limits  of  the  township. 

The  Indian  Fort  was  on  a  gentle  hill  at  the  western 
side  of  the  village,  which  commands  a  view  of  the 
Saco  valley  six  miles  up  its  course,  and  six  miles  down. 

Lovel's  Pond 

is  on  an  isthmus,  about  one  mile  south-east  from  the 
village,  and  is  memorable  as  the  scene  of  one  of  the 


LOVEL  8  EXPEDITION. 


34» 


most  severe  and  disastrous  battles  in  the  old  partisan 
warfare  against  the  Indians. 

The  Portland  Road  passes  alone  the  western  side 
of  the  pond,  and  at  present  affords  a  view  of  it  only 
from  that  part  of  the  high  ground  which  is  near  its 
north  end.  This,  however,  was  the  place  of  the 
action.  Another  road  runs  very  near  the  north  shore ; 
and  it  is  a  pleasant  ride  to  the  place. 

^'  ■■  ■■■     i   .'.  ■ .% 

Lovel's  Expedition.  •*: 

In  1725,  Cai)tain  Lovel  was  induced  to  undertake  a 
secret  expedition  through  the  wilderness  against  the 
Pickwaket  tribe  of  Indians,  who,  instigated  by  the 
French,  had  committed  many  depredations  on  the 
frontier,  so  that  the  general  court  of  Massachusetts  had 
offered  100  pounds  each  for  their  scalps.  His  com- 
pany consisted  of  30  or  40  men,  many  of  tJiiem  accus- 
tomed to  the  life  of  hardy  hunters  and  settlers,  with 
young  Mr.  Frye  for  their  chaplain,  whose  history  was 
somewhat  romantic,  and  from  whom  this  town  received 
its  name. 

They  passed  up  Winnipiseogee  Lake,  then  to 
Ossipee  rond,  where  they  built  a  blockhouse,  and 
placed  their  stores  ;  then  following  up  the  course  of 
the  Saco,  encamped  at  the  mouth  of  Mill  Brook  at  the 
north-west  corner  of  Lovel's  Pond,  on  the  ni^ht  pre- 
ceding the  battle,  intending  to  cross  the  isthmus, 
(which  i%  reduced  by  the  pond  to  the  breadth  of  U 
miles,)  and  fall  upon  the  Indian  Fort. 

The  next  morning  they  deviated  from  their  route, 
and  the  great  body  of  Indians  having  discovered  the 
encampment,  and  the  way  they  had  gone,  formed  an 
ambush,  fired  upon  them  on  tneir  return,  and  killed 
eight  men.  The  white  men  retreated  to  the  north-east 
corner  of  the  pond,  where  is  a  narrow  strip  of  land, 
and  defended  themselves  till  night ;  and  the  remains 
of  the  unfortunate  expedition  returned  through  the 
forest,  suffering  from  hunger  and  fatigue,  and  some  of 

Gg2 


360 


JBOSTON  TO  TUB  WUITE  MOVZHTAOS. 


tbem  from  wounds.  One  of  the  first  wounded  escaped 
by  getting  into  a  canoe,  which  was  driven  across  the 
pond  by  a  north  wind ;  but  a  fugitive,  who  reached 
the  blockhouse  at  Ossipee  Lake,  reported  that  the  ex- 
pedition had  been  entirely  cut  off,  so  that  the  garrison 
nastily  removed  the  provisions,  and  thus  increased  the 
suffermgs  of  the  survivors. 

The  Sia^e  Coach  from  Conway  to  Portland  passes 
through  Ftyebur^h  early  in  the  morning,  one  or  per- 
haps more  days  m  the  week,  and  arrives  at  Portland 
the  same  evening,  by  Hiram,  Baldwin,  Standisb,  and 
Gorham. 

The  coach  to  Concord  eoes  through  Conway. 

[Paris  is  a  pleasant  anaflourishing  town,  about  36 
miles  east  from  Fryeburgh  ;  but  tfake  roads  and  the 
inns  in  that  part  of  the  country  are  generally  poor.] 

A  tremendous  catastrophe  occurred  among  the 
White  Mountains  on  the  night  of  Aug.  28th,  1826.  A 
storm  of  rai^,  unprecedented  within  the  memoiy  of 
the  oldest  inhabitants,  deluged  the  principal  peaks  of 
the  mountains,  and  poured  such  an  inundation  upon 
the  valleys  and  plains  below,  that  it  is  commonly  at- 
tributed to  the  "  bursting  of  a  cloud  ;"  although  that 
expression  is  a  very  ill-defined  one.  The  effects  pro- 
duced by  the  flood  will  remain  for  centuries  ;  and  as 
many  ot  these  lie  exposed  to  the  eye,  the  route  will 
offer  many  new  objects  interesting  tc  an  intelligent 
traveller.  It  will  afford  him  a  very  desirable  oppor- 
tunity to  observe,  in  some  places,  the  structure  of^the 
mountains,  where  ibeir  interior  has  been  laid  bare  by 
the  falling  of  vast  quantities  of  earth  and  rocks  ;  and 
in  others,  exemplifications  to  confirm  the  modern  geog- 
nostical  theories,  to  explain  the  phenomena  observable 
in  valleys,  plains,  and  the  courses  of  rivers.  Geolo- 
gists and  mineralogists,  too,  may  expect  to  meet  with 
curious  and  valuable  specimens,  among  the  enormous 
wrecks  they  will  observe  on  either  hand. 

The  inundation  was  so  great  and  so  sudden,  that  the 
channels  of  the  streams  were  totally  insufficient  to 


^dmi 

quen 

of  th 

form< 

by  th 

stone 

forest 

**  slid 

(knov 

suppc 

from  { 

occun 

among 

power 

awo  a 

control 

The 

3uantil 
eposii 
porary 
noated 
bers,  fi 
they  w 
with  d 
which 
mounta 
some  I 
meado 
depth  < 
The 
country 
entirely 
bridges 
with  st( 
ran  aloi 
The 
choJy  t] 
this  ini 
lars-e  « 


THE   INUr^DATION   OF    18J(i. 


361 


sidmit  of  the  passage  of  the  water,  which  conse- 
quently overflowed  the  little  level  valleys  at  the  feet 
of  the  mountains.  Innumerable  torrents  immediately 
formed  on  all  sides ;  and  such  deep  trench«'S  were  cut 
by  the  rashing^  water,  that  vast  bodies  of  earth  and 
stones  fell  from  the  mountains,  bearing  with  them  the 
forests  that  had  covered  them  for  ages.  Some  of  these 
**  slides,"  as  they  are  here  popularly  denomifiated, 
(known  among  the  Alps  as  "  avalanches de  terre^'*^)  are 
supposed  to  have  been  half  a  mile  in  breadth,  and 
from  one  to  five  miles  in  length.  Scarcely  any  natural 
occurrence  can  be  imagined  more  sublime ;  and 
among  the  devastation  which  it  has  left  to  testify  the 
power  of  the  elements,  the  traveller  will  be  filled  with 
awo  at  the  thought  ot  that  Being  by  whom  they  are 
controlled  and  directed. 

The  streams  broueht  away  with  them  immense 
Quantities  of  earth  and  sand,  which  the  turbid  water 
deposited,  when  any  obstacle  threw  it  back,  in  tem- 
porary ponds  and  lakes.  The  forest  trees  were  also 
floated  down,  and  may  now  be  observed  in  great  num- 
bers, frequently  several  miles  from  the  places  where 
they  were  rooted  up.  The  timber  was  often  marked 
witii  deep  grooves  and  trenches,  made  by  the  rocks 
which  passed  over  them  during  their  descent  from  the 
mountams  ;  and  great  heaps  of  trees  are  deposited  in 
some  places,  while  in  others,  the  soil  of  the  little 
meadows  is  buried  with  earth,  sand,  or  rocks,  to  the 
depth  of  several  feet. 

The  turnpike  road  leading  through  this  romantic 
country,  was  twenty  miles  in  length,  but  was  almost 
entirely  destroyed.  Twenty-one  of  the  twenty-three 
bridges  upon  it  were  demolished :  one  of  them,  built 
with  stone,  cost  $1000.  In  some  places,  the  Saco  river 
ran  along  the  road,  and  cut  down  deejp  channels. 

The  Willey  Home  was  thf  scene  of  a  most  melan- 
choljT  traeedy  on  the  night  above  mentioned,  when 
this  inundation  occurred.  Several  days  previously,  a 
largre  "  slide"  came  down  from  the  mountains  behind 


3^ 


•M 


365:i 


THE    WHITE   MOUNTAIKS. 


it,  and  passed  so  near  as  to  cause  great  alarm,  without 
any  injury  to  the  inmates.  The  house  was  occupied 
by  Mr.  Calvin  Willey,  whose  wife  was  a  youn^  wo^ 
man  of  a  very  interesting  character,  and  of  an  educa- 
tion not  to  be  looked  for  in  so  wild  a  region.  They 
had  a  number  of  young  children,  and  their  family  at 
the  time  included  several  other  persons,  amounting  in 
ail  to  eleven.  They  were  waked  in  the  night  by  the 
noise  of  the  storm,  or  more  probably,  by  the  second 
descent  of  avalanches  from  the  neighbouring  moun- 
tains ;  and  fled  in  their  night  clothes  from  the  bouse  to 
seek  their  safety,  but  thus  threw  themselves  in  the  way 
of  destruction.  One  of  the  slides,  100  feet  high, 
stopped  within  3  feet  of  the  house.  Another  took 
away  the  barn,  and  overwhelmed  the  family.  Nothing 
was  found  of  them  for  some  time  :  their  clothes  were 
iying  at  their  bedsides,  the  house  not  having  been 
started  on  its  foundation :  an  immense  heap  of  earth 
pnd  timber,  which  had  slid  down,  having  stopped  before 
it  touched  it ;  and  they  had  a  I  been  crushed  on  leaving 
the  door,  or  borne  i  tvay  with  the  water  that  overflowed 
the  meadow.  The  bodies  of  several  of  them  were 
never  found.  A  catastrophe  so  melancholy,  and  at  the 
same  time  so  singular  in  its  circumstances,  has  liardly 
ever  occurred.  It  will  always  furnish  the  traveller 
with  a  melancholy  subject  of  reflection. 

Bartlett  is  a  comfortable  village,  situated  in  a  rich 
valley,  or  interval,  of  about  300  acres,  where  the  view 
is  bounded  on  every  side  by  near  and  lofVy  mounts <ns. 
The  inn  of  the  place  is  kept  by  *  Judge  Hfall.*  There 
is  another  interval  among  the  mountains  westward, 
which,  although  it  contains  much  g:ood  cleared  land, 
has  been  converted  into  a  common,  in  consequence  of 
the  difficulty  of  making  a  good  road  to  it.  Pursuing 
still  the  course  of  the  narrow  va!ley,  against  the  cur- 
rent of  the  Saco,  the  country  is  found  uncleared,  except 
two  or  three  preiij  little  meadows  ;  and  destitute  of 
inhabitants,  excepting  only  three  or  four  poor  families, 
until  arriving  at 


nancy's  HIIX.  M),^ 


Crawford's  Farm, 

seven  and  a  half  r^iies  south  of  the  Notch.  Here  the 
traveller  will  be  cheerfully  and  comfortably  enter- 
tained, although  the  house  does  not  wear  the  sign  of 
an  inn.  The  water  rose  in  this  house  two  feet  in  the 
flood  of  1826.  This  is  the  place  from  which  visiters 
formerly  began  their  excursions  to  the  summit  of  the 
mountams  :  but  the  best  place  is  at  the  new  house  at 
the  Notch. 

Prospect  MourUam,  one  of  the  principal  peaks,  pre- 
sents itself  to  view  a  little  before  arriving  at  the  first 
Crawford's,  with  its  smooth  rounded  summit  of  brown 
mots,  rising  several  hundred  feet  above  the  region  of 
vegetation,  and  offering  an  aspect  which  distinguishes 
these  from  the  other  elevations. 

The  climate  in  this  narrow  valley  is  still  so  warm 
as  to  favour  the  growth  of  various  trees  which  are 
scarcely  to  be  found  a  few  miles  further  north.  The 
forests  are  here  formed  of  spruce,  ash,  beech,  maple^ 
sugar  maple,  &.c.  Mr.  Crawford  has  about  100  acres 
cleared,  and  raises  Indian  corn  very  welU  which  will 
not  come  to  maturity  beyond.  His  orchard  contains 
700  apple  trees. 

This  is  one  of  the  principal  stopping  places  for  tlie 
sleighs,  which  pass  tne  mountains  in  ^reat  numbers 
during  the  winter,  for  Portland,  Boston,  &o«  There 
are  sometimes  80  horses  in  the  stables. 

J^ancy^a  Hill  is  a  small  elevation  a  few  miles  north 
of  this  place.  In  1773,  a  young  woman  of  respectable 
connexioas,  who  accompanied  a  family  of  seUlers  to 
Dartmouth  (now  Jefferson,)  set  out  in  the  winter  to 
return  to  Portsmouth,  alone  and  on  foot,  her  lover  ha- 
ving promised  to  meet  her  there  and  marry  her. 
There  was  then  no  house  nearer  than  Bartlett,  30 
miles.  Nancy  was  found  by  some  travellers  in  thivS 
«pot,  frozen   and    covered  with    ice,  under    a    hut 


$4i 


'        t  i 


■'"'Twia*'' 


lUA 


THIS   WIIITlfi   MOIINTAINM. 


formed  of  branches  of  trees,  which  was  the  only  iheltcr 
lo  bo  found  on  the  way. 

TlIK  WlliLKY  IIOVBE 

is  situated  in  a  secluded  little  valley  about  5  miles 
north  of  Crawfor(l\<i,  and  was  lonfic  the  only  buildinf(  in  a 
distance  of  12  miles.  It  has  sometimes  been  unin- 
habited during  thr>  summer  season,  thouKh  open,  wih 
its  cheerless  slielter,  to  all  comers :  in  the  winter  a 
family  occupied  it  to  keep  a  fire,  lod((in^s,  and  a  little 
food,  proviaed  for  the  travellers  and  wagoners,  who 
might  otherwise  perish  for  want  of  the  ij«i:  -<''  i  of 
life.  For  an  account  of  the  melancholy  ca^a^iirophe 
which  has  marked  this  place  with  an  affecting  and 
lasting  association,  see  the  previous  remarks  on  the 
inundation  of  1 8S6.    {See  page  361.) 

The  climate  is  so  cold,  that  the  land  is  not  worth 
cultivating ;  and  although  the  place  has  been  occupied 
by  f;everar  tenants,  no  one  would  keep  the  house  in  re- 
pair, even  rent  free.  There  are  no  good  uplands,  the 
soil  there  being  all  gravel ;  and  the  climate  is  sensibly 
colder  than  at  the  last  stopping  place. 

There  is  a  place  near  tne  Ivotcht  where  the  road 
sutfered  severe  injury.  It  had  been  built  up  against 
the  side  of  a  mountain,  on  a  wall  40  or  60  feet  nigh> 
and  about  30  vards  in  extent,  at  the  expense  of  t|^60C. 
This  whole  fabric  was  swept  away  by  a  mass  of  earth, 
rocks,  and  trees,  which  came  from  hah  a  mile  up  the 
side  of  the  niountain,  and  rushing  down  at  an  angle  of 
about  46<>,  precipitated  itself  into  the  bed  of  the  Saco, 
which  is  nearly  300  feet  below.. 

In  repairing  this  road  in  the  winter,  the  workmen 
had  great  difnculty  in  ptting  over  the  obstructions. 
They  exoected  to  find  out  little  daylight  at  that  h>; 
season  of^the  3[ear;  but  they  found  that  the  sumn.?^ 
of  the  mountains  received  very  earl}r  intelligence  of 
morning,  and  the  snows  reflected  ft  into  the  valleys 
and  ravines. 


?w 


i 


'■  p-?^W' 


Vk 


fts 


© 

© 


THE   r^OTCU. 


xMJb 


"'  The  road  rises  with  a  steep  ascent  for  a  considerable 
distance  before  it  reaches  the  Notch,  and  the  traveller 
observes  two  cataracts,  one  pouring  down  a  precipi- 
tous mountain  at  a  distance  on  the  west  side  of  tne 
valley,  and  the  other,  which  is  called 

The  Flume,  rushing  down  on  the  right-hand,  and 
crossing  the  road  under  a  bridge.  The  scenery  is 
sublime  and  impressive  beyond  description.  Just 
beyond  is  another  Flume* 

About  150  yards  beyond  is  the  first  great  slide  seen 
in  coming  from  the  Notch. 


The  Notch 

is  so  narrow  as  to  allow  only  room  enough  for  the  path 
and  the  Saco,  which  is  here  a  mere  brook  only  four 
feet  in  breadth.  It  is  remarkable  that  the  Saco  and 
the  Ammonoosuc  spring  from  fountains  on  Mount 
Washington,  within,  perhaps,  60  yards  of  each  other, 
though  the  former  empties  into  the  Atlantic,  and  the 
latter  joins  Connecticut  Kiver.  Another  branch  of  the 
Ammonoosuc  approaches  the  Saco  in  one  place,  within 
about  600  yards.  They  are  both  crossed  beyond  the 
Notch.  The  head  waters  of  the  Merrimack  rise  within 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  of  this  place  ;  and  run  down  a 
long  ravine,  little  less  remarkable  than  that  of  the  Saco. 
The  Notch  Meadow.  Here  a  house  has  been  re- 
cently erected,  at  which  the  traveller  will  find  accom- 
modation, and  where  it  is  recommended  to  him  to  take 
up  his  quarters  during  his  stay.  It  is  situated  on  a 
small  meadow,  probably  formed  at  an  early  period, 
when  the  water  of  the  Saco  was  set  back  ana  over- 
fiowed  the  neighbouring  surface,  before  the  convulsion 
occurred  by  which  the  blotch  was  formed,  and  a  pass- 
age was  opened  to  it.  The  spot  is  probably  the  most 
advantageous  that  could  have  been  cnosen  on  the  road, 
for  a  public  house.  It  is  sheltered  by  the  neighbouring 
mountains,  presents  a  level  surface,  and  is  within  the 
distance  of  a  few  yards  of  the  remarkable  pass  which 


wm 


1  i 

I  i' 


ill 


356 


THE   WHITE   MOUMTAl^'S. 


opens  the  way  through  the  towering;  ridge  southward, 
along  the  avenue  to  the  still  distant  regions  of  civili- 
zation. The  change  presented  to  one  comine  down  is 
so  sudden,  that  the  mind  is  greatly  affected.  From 
the  level  surface  over  which  be  has  proceeded  by  a 
smooth  road,  that  bends  alonjr  one  maigin  of  the 
meadoW;  while  the  Saco  brook  has  been  leisurely 
making  the  circuit  of  the  other  side,  at  a  sudden  turn 
round  a  rude  projecting  rock,  he  finds  the  meadow 
suddenly  terminated,  a  dark  and  narrow  defile  opening 
beside,  and  the  stream  appearing  and  disappearing 
almost  at  the  same  instant,  as  it  begins  to  dart  down 
the  steep  descent  which  is  opened  at  once  to  the  cur- 
rent ana  the  road.  A  traveller  arriving  at  this  spot 
from  the  westward,  can  hardly  paint  in  his  own  ima-< 
gination  an  adequate  picture  of  tne  wild  and  magnifi- 
cent objects  which  await  him  along  the  route  ;  and  he 
who  has  already  passed  among  them  will  never  be  able 
to  erase  the  impression  from  his  memoiy. 

From  a  distance  the  striped  and  channelled  ap- 
pearance of  the  mountains  prepares  the  mind  in  some 
measui'e  for  the  effects  of  tne  ^reat  inundation  ;  but, 
however  great  the  effort  the  imagination  may  have 
made,  the  fancy  will  here  find  itself  greatly  surpassed. 

A  road  was  first  made  through  the  Notch  in  1785. 
It  was  50  or  60  feet  higher  than  the  present  turnpike, 
and  so  b^  ep  that  it  was  necessary  to  draw  horses  and 
wagons  up  with  ropes.  The  assessment  for  the  turn- 
pike was  made  in  1806. 

Two  rocks  stand  at  the  sides  of  this  remarkable 
passaj^e,  one  20,  and  the  other  about  30  feet,  in  per- 
pendicular height.  They  are  about  20  feet  asunder, 
at  6  or  7  yards  from  the  north  end  ;  then  they  open 
to  30  feet.  The  part  which  appears  to  have  been  cut 
through  is  about  120  feet  long.  The  Notch  meadow 
opens  beyond ;  and  after  a  ride  of  4^  miles,  the  tra- 
veller reaches  another  comfortable  house,  kept  by  Mr. 
E.  A.  Crawford,  where  also  he  will  be  received  and 
entertained. 


E 

hous 

office 

and  i 

with 

of  th 

the    ; 

**  Can 

have 

the  in 

to  the 

and  th 

thv  de 


Tiie 

arduou; 

but  sev 

those  vv 

lies  thrc 

over  a  < 

miles  ar 

from  an 

Thet 

cursion 

From 

Them 

Retur 

Thenc 

The  s 

to  be  crc 

undation 

(if  the  W( 


ilOt^T    WASHim;TO]M. 


o67 


Ethan  Jl.  Crawford's  House,  The  master  of  the 
house  also  will  act  as  a  guide,  and  is  qualified  for  the 
office,  both  by  his  intimate  acquaintance  with  the  way, 
and  the  various  kind  attentions  and  amusing  anecdotes 
with  which  he  knows  how  to  relieve  the  tediousncss 
of  the  ascent.  The  best  arrangement  is  to  set  out  in 
the  afternoon,  spend  the  night  at  the  wigwam  or 
^^Campt^^  ascend  the  mouiilaiutarly  in  the  ntorning,  to 
have  tne  benefit  of  the  view  by  sunrise,  and  return  to 
the  inn  before  the  ensuing  evening.  It  is  6  or  7  miles 
to  the  "  Camp,"  3  of  which  are  passable  in  a  carriage 
and  the  rest  on  horseback,  though  much  impeded  by 
thv  devastations  of  the  great  storm. 

MOUNT  WASHINGTON. 

The  ascent  of  the  mountain  was  formerly  a  most 
arduous  undertaking,  and  was  very  rarely  performed, 
but  several  ladies  have  lately  been  enumerated  among 
those  who  have  gained  the  summit.  The  whole  way 
lies  through  a  perfect  forest.  The  first  6  or  7  miles  are 
over  a  surface  comparatively  level ;  but  the  last  two 
miles  and  a  quarter  are  up  an  ascent  not  differing  much 
from  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees. 

The  time  to  perform  the  different  parts  of  this  ex- 
cursion may  be  estimated  as  follows : 

hours. 

From  the  inn  to  the  camp,       2 

Thence  to  the  summit,  2  miles  and  93  rods,    2  or  2^ 
Returning  from  summit  to  camp,      .    .    .    1| 

Thence  to  the  inn, 2 

The  streams  of  the  Ammonoosuc  River,  which  are 
to  be  crossed  seven  times,  show  the  ravages  of  the  in- 
undation of  1826,  but  a  comfortable  bed,  and  a  fire, 
(if  the  weather  be  chill,)  will  be  found  very  welcome  at 


U'-'^] 
,j». 


n  h 


368 


TJIK    WIUTE   MOUNTAIM. 


The  Cami', 

6J  miles  from  Crawford's.  Here  provisions  of  difler- 
ent  kinds  will  be  produced,  and  even  cooked  by  a 
cheerful  fire ;  and  if  the  travellers  are  sportsmen, 
and  the  season  is  favourable,  a  dish  of  fine  trout  may 
soon  be  obtained  from  the  romantic  little  stream  which 
dashes  by  within  a  short  distance. 

The  ascent  of  Mount  Washington  begins  just  at 
hand,  and  the  mo»t  arduous  exertion  will  be  necessary 
to  attain  the  summit,  which  seems  to  fly  before  the 
stranger  when  he  deems  it  just  attained,  and  to  look 
down  in  derision  from  a  new  and  more  hopeless  height. 
The  first  part  of  the  way  is  through  a  thick  forest  of 
heavy  timber,  which  is  suddenly  succeeded  by  a 
girdle  of  dwarf  and  knarled  fir-trees,  10  or  15  feet 
nigh,  and  80  rods,  or  about  450  yards,  broad ;  which, 
ending  as  suddenly  as  they  began,  give  place  to  a  kind 
of  short  bushes,  and  finally  a  thin  bed  of  moss,  not 
half  sufficient  to  conceal  the  immense  granite  rocks 
which  deform  the  surface.  For  more  than  a  mile,  the 
surface  is  entirely  destitute  of  trees.  A  few  strag- 
gling spiders,  and  several  species  of  little  flowering 
plants,  are  the  only  objects  that  attract  the  attention, 
under  the  feet. 

The  following  heights  are  stated  to  be  those  of  the 
different  peaks,  above  the  level  of  Connecticut  River 
at  Lancaster : 

Washington,  5,350 ;  Jefferson,  5,261 ;  Adams,  5,183 ; 
Madison,  5,039  ;  Monroe,  4,932.;  Quincy,  4,470. 

Mount  Washington  is  believed  to  be  more  than  6,400 
feet  above  the  ocean. 

In  a  clear  atmosphere  the  view  is  sublime,  and  al- 
most boundless.  The  finest  part  of  it  is  towards  tho 
south-east  and  south*  Looking  down  the  valley, 
through  which  the  road  has  conducted  us,  a  fine  suc- 
cession of  mountainous  summits   appear  for  manv 


"iiles, 

ioi 

extent 

Mount 

and  to 

the  coi 

ijorizor 

sbarpei 

witbou 

Jand,  th 

OntI 

foggin 

scenery 

dians,  U 

approac 

setts  anc 

Hills,  nc 

J^orth 

and  the  i 

AndroscJ 

West, 
covered 
casional 
(or  clear 
hiiJs  are  i 
necticut 
hidden  fr 
higher,  te 
in  Vermoi 
South'TSi. 
The  Ir 
name  of 
cessible,  o 


;s  a  little  t 
neautiftil 


THE    LAKfi    OF   THE    CLOUDS. 


3o"J 


miles,  extending  beyond  the  bright  surface  of  Winnipi- 
>e()eee  Lake. 

Towards  the  south-east  also,  the  eye  ranges  over  an 
extent  of  surface,  which  quite  bewilders  the  mind. 
Mountains,  hills,  and  valleys,  farm  houses,  villages, 
and  towns,  add  their  variety  to  the  natural  features  of 
the  country  ;  and  the  ocean  may  be  discovered  at  the 
horizon  with  the  help  of  a  telescope,  although  the 
sharpest  sight  has  never  been  able  to  distinguish  it 
without  «uch  assistance.  In  that  direction  lies  Port- 
land, the  capital  of  Maine ;  and  nearer,  LovePs  Pond. 

On  the  north-east  is  seen  the  valley  of  the  Andros- 
coggin River,  which  abounds  in  wild  and  romantic 
scenery,  and  was  the  usual  passage  by  which  the  In- 
dians, in  their  hostile  incursions  from  Canada,  used  to 
approach  the  eastern  frontier  settlements  of  Massachu- 
setts and  New-Hampshire.  Beyond,  are  the  Ktardin 
Hills,  near  the  extremity  of  Maine. 

J^orthf  the  country  is  more  wild  and  uncultivated ; 
and  the  Umbagog  Lake  is  seen,  from  which  flows  the 
Androscoggin. 

West,  the  nearer  view  is  over  a  mountainous  region^ 
covered  with  a  thick  forest,  through  which  only  an  oc- 
casional opening  is  perceived,  formed  by  the  farms 
(or  clearings)  oi  the  hardy  inhabitants.  Beyond,  the 
hills  are  seen  to  rise  from  the  oppc^ite  shore  of  Con- 
necticut River,  the  surface  of  which  is  every  where 
hidden  from  view,  and  the  summits,  rising  higher  and 
higher,  terminate  in  the  ridges  of  the  Green  Mountains 
in  Vermont. 

South-westerly  is  seen  the  Grand  Monadnock. 

The  Indians  knew  the  White  Mountains  by  the 
name  of  Agiocochook,  and  regarded  them  as  inac- 
cessible, or  at  least  represented  them  so  to  white  men. 

Thb  Lake  of  the  Clouds 

is  a  little  pond,  near  the  summit  of  Mount  Monroe,  of 
beautiful  clear  water;  and  supplife  the  head  stream  of 


,^6U 


THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS. 


the  Ammonoosuc  River.  This  little  current  imme' 
diately  ^begins  its  descent,  and  dashes  in  a  headlong 
course  of  several  thousand  feet,  into  the  valley  near  the 
encampment. 

Geology.  Loose  fragments  of  granite  are  every 
where  scattered  over  the  mountain,  with  some  speci- 
mens of  gneiss.  The  granite  is  generally  gray,  and 
at  first  fine-grained,  but  grows  coarser  as  we  ascend, 
and  is  occasionally  sprinkled  with  small  garnets.  At 
the  summit  it  frequently  contains  a  little  black  tour- 
maline, sometimes  in  crossing  crystals.  On  the  sum- 
mit, also,  some  of  the  granite  is  tinged  with  red,  al- 
though much  of  it  is  coloured  bright  green  by  lichens, 
dampened  by  the  humidity  of  the  clouds,  and  inter- 
spersed with  thick  and  soft  gray  moss.  The  grain  of 
the  coarse  granite  is  elongated  ;  and  what  strikes  the 
visiter  as  very  singular  is,  that  not  a  single  rock  is  to 
be  found  in  its  original  place — every  thing  bears  the 
mark  of  removal ;  and  this,  taken  into  view  with  the 
precipice  on  the  northern  side,  seems  to  indicate  that 
the  summit  of  the  mountain  has  fallen  down  and  disap- 
peared. 

The  general  belief  now  seems  to  be,  that  the  lofty 
peak  above  us  is  the  highest  elevation  in  North  Ame- 
rica, except  Mexico  and  some  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. The  inhospitable  nature  of  the  climate  is  such 
as  to  forbid  all  hopes  of  future  improvement ;  so  that 
the  feeling  of  sublimity,  produced  by  the  lonely  and 
desolate  character  of  this  desert  region,  is  increased 
by  the  rejection,  that  it  is  destined  to  be  a  wilderness 
for  ever. 

The  only  places  susceptible  qf  cultivation  in  the 
heart  of  the  mountains,  are  the  little  m*^adows  inha- 
bited by  the  Crawfords,  the  Notch,  and  Willey  Mea- 
dows ;  and  there  the  interval  of  warm  weather  is  so 
short  in  the  year,  that  few  vegetables  can  arrive  at 
maturity,  with  all  the  rapidity  of  growth  which  distin- 
guishes such  cold  regions. 

To  those  who  are  fond  of  field  sports,  the  forests 


and  ] 
sumir 
wild 
besid( 
buffali 
and  ji 
ingre 
as  the 
sippi. 
are  ki 
boldly 
house, 
bear  ai 
places 
man. 
of  the  ( 
Mounta 
scarce  i 
The 
mounta 
cinity  o 
almost  V 
still  at  c 
tion  of 
tion  of  t 
and  it  u 
During 
only  the 
the  Note 
a  strong 

The 

vested  . 

only  wh( 

the  day 

sometime 

of  the  m( 

Roads, 

River ;    I 

^0  Lanci 


K0A1)!«. 


36  J 


and  livers  aftord  eveiy  advantage,  during  the  brief 
summer  which  visits  the  valleys.  Various  kinds  of 
wild  birds  and  game  are  to  be  found  in  the  woods, 
besides  bears,  wild  cats,  and  deer.  The  nuiose  and 
buffalo  were  formerly  abundant  amon?  the  mountains  ; 
and  it  is  scarcely  thirty  years  since  they  were  killed 
in  great  numbers,  merely  for  their  hides  and  tallow  ; 
as  the  latter  still  are  in  the  deserts  beyond  the  Missis- 
sippi. Deer  are  common  in  the  woods,  and  frequently 
are  killed  by  the  hunter^.  Sometimes  they  come 
boldly  down  into  the  little  meadow  before  Crawford's 
house,  and  quietly  eraze  with  the  cattle.  The  black 
bear  are  occasionally  seen  in  the  more  unfrequented 
places ;  but  they  will  always  endeavour  to  avoid  a 
man.  A  large  species  of  elk,  here  known  by  the  name 
of  the  Caritm,  nas  made  its  appearance  in  the  White 
Mountains  within  a  few  years ;  out  they  are  still  very 
scarce  in  this  part  of  the  country. 

The  weather  is  liable  to  frequent  changes  in  the 
mountainous  region,  which  is  partly  owing  to  the  vi- 
cinity of  the  Notchi  through  which  the  wind  blows, 
almost  without  ceasinjg^,  even  when  the  air  is  perfectly 
still  at  only  a  short  distance  from  it.  From  the  situa- 
tion of  the  mountains,  it  is  impossible  that  the  direc- 
tion of  the  v/ind  should  vary  materially  in  the  valley ; 
and  it  is  therefore,  of  course,  always  north  or  south. 
During  the  winter  it  is  often  very  violent,  so  that  not 
only  the  snow  is  prevented  from  lying  on  the  path  at 
the  Notch,  but  the  surface  ;s  swept  of  every  thing  that 
a  strong  wind  can  remove. 

The  summits  of  the  mountains  are  frequently  in- 
vested with  mist,  when  the  sky  is  clear ;  and  those 
only  who  inhabit  the  vicinity  are  able  to  tell  whether 
the  day  is  to  be  favourable  for  the  ascent.  The  mists 
sometimes  collect  in  the  valleys,  and  then  present  some 
of  the  most  singular  and  beautiful  appearances. 

Roads.  There  are  two  roads  hence  to  Connecticut 
River ;  one  over  Cherry  Mountain  (very  laborious) 
■to  Lancaster ;    the   other,  shorter,  through  Breton 

Hh2 


.:I62 


BOUTE   FROM   BOSTON   TO   MAIM;. 


Woods,  Bethlehem,  and  Littleton,  (rough  and  stony)  lu 
Bath,  34  miles.    [See  Index.] 

ROUTE  FROM  BOSTON  TO  MAINE. 

A  line  of  Steam  Navigation  was  commenced  in 
1823,  between  Boston  and  Portland  and  Bath  ;  and  ex- 
tended in  1821,  about  250  miles  from  Bath  to  Eastport 
in  one  direction,  and  about  40  miles  to  Augusta  in  an- 
other ;  and  in  1825,  again  about  70  miles  from  Eastport 
to  St.  John's,  in  New-Brunswick,  by  proprietors  resid- 
ing at  Eastport ;  and  from  St.  John's  up  the  River  St. 
Jonn's  about  80  miles  to  Frederi  ktown,  by  proprietors 
residing  at  St.  John's  ;  and  in  another  direction  by  the 
Eastport  proprietors,  from  Eastport  about  30  miles  on 
the  Schoodic  to  St.  Andrew's  and  Calais.  Two  boats 
were  afterward  put  upon  a  line  from  Eastport  '^  An- 
napolis and  Windsor,  m  Nova  Scolia.  Another  >t  is 
run  from  Eastport  to  Dennisville,  a  distance  c*  ^^  or 
30  miles.  The  line  before  occupied,  including  all  its 
collateral  branches  and  ramifications,  exceeds  500 
miles,  and  is  now  about  700  miles. 

It  is  proposed  in  Boston,  to  enlarge  the  canal  across 
Cape  Ann,  to  admit  the  steamboats,  which  will  save 
15  miles,  and  give  an  opportunity  to  communicate,  di- 
rectly or  by  smaller  boats,  with  Gloucester,  Newbu- 
ryport,  Portsmouth,  Dover,  and  Kennebunk. 

The  boats  go  about  100  miles  a  day,  and  pass  so 
near  the  shore  as  to  afford  many  interest  ng  views  of 
the  numerous  islands,  points,  and  bays,  which  abound 
along  the  coast.  In  1826,  the  steamboat  was  burned 
on  this  line.  The  price  was,  from  Boston  to  Portland, 
$5 ;  thence  to  Eastport,  $6, with  a  deduction  for  forward 
passengers.     (The  arrangements  for  1830  not  known.) 

There  are  coaches  going  to  Salem  every  hour  in  the 
morning  and  forenoon ;  and  it  may,  perhaps,  be  conve- 
nient to  take  a  seat  in  one  of  them,  as  Salem  is  well 
worthy  of  at  least  a  day's  delay.  Indeed,  if  con- 
venient, the  stranger  will  be  gratified  with  several 


rides 
blehc 


Th 
bers  c 
most 
with  i 
in  this 
manuf 
opera  t 
hands 
per  w 

celebra 
The 
made, 
ionable 
ing  an 
water, 
where 
ago. 

Ther 
coaches 

The 
mgj  bu 


is  a  tow] 
to  form  i 
we  pass, 
eminence 
as  it  is  tl 
lor  that  < 


JiEVERLV. 


3{J3 


ndes  ill  the  vicinity  of  that  place,  particularly  toMar- 
blehead. 

Lynn,  9  miles  from  Boston. 

This  town  is  devoted  to  makino:  shoes;  great  num- 
bers of  which  are  annually  exported.  Eacn  house,  al- 
most without  exception,  has  a  little  shop  connected 
with  it,  in  which  the  men  and  boys  employ  themselves 
in  this  manufacture.  There  are  in  Lynn  from  70  to  80 
manufacturers  of  shoes,  and  probably  not  far  from  1500 
operatives.  Some  of  the  manufacturers  employ  50 
hands  each,  and  one  is  said  to  manufacture  1200  pair 
per  week.  This,  if  we  allow  12  working  hours  a 
days,  gives  one  pair  of  shoes  about  every  3  minutes. 

There  is  a  mineral  spring  in  this  town,  which  was 
celebrated  many  years  ago. 

The  Lynn  Beach,  of  which  mention  has  before  been 
made,  is  in  this  town,  and  lies  on  the  way  to  the  fash- 
ionable retreat  at  Nahant.  It  is  of  hard  sand,  offer- 
ing an  excellent  natural  road,  but  is  impassable  at  high 
water.  The  bay  on  which  it  looks  is  one  of  the  places 
where  the  famous  sea  serpent  was  seen  several  years 
ago. 

There  is  a  good  inn  in  the  town  where  the  stage 
coaches  stop. 

The  country  beyond  is  rather  hilly  and  uninterest- 
ing ;  but  the  road  is  good. 

Bevebly 

is  a  town  which  joins  Salem  so  closely,  as  apparently 
to  form  a  part  of  it.  It  has  a  long  street  through  -which 
we  pass,  nearly  at  the  foot  of  a  hi^h,  barren  hill.  This 
eminence  is  remarkable  in  the  history  of  witchcraft ; 
as  it  is  the  spot  where  numerous  persons,  condemned 
for  that  crime,  in  Salem,  were  executed. 


y>r>'\ 


MDI  Ti:    1  KOM    UW.SiO^    TO    MAINK. 


SALEM. 


The  Lafayette  Hotel. 

This  is  one  of  the  nost  populous,  wealthy,  and  beau- 
tiful towns  in  Nev-K  inland  It  was  one  of  the  ear- 
liest settlements  made  in  Mass:?chusetts  Bay  ;  and  the 
planting*  of  the  colony  is  anijually  celebrated.  Go- 
vernor End  icott,  one  of  the  most  distinguished  indi- 
viduals in  the  early  histoiy  of  this  part  ot  the  country^ 
resided  here.    The  place  was  6rst  settled  in  1626. 

Salem  was  for  many  years  enpeed  in  an  extensive 
and  lucrative  commerce,  particularly  with  China ;  and 
the  appearance  of  the  town  is  sumcient  to  show  that 
it  stilt  contains  a  great  deal  of  wealth.  The  harbour 
is  dne,  and  the  wharves  still  ^^ell  supplied  with  stores ; 
but  the  trade  of  the  place  has  materially  diminished. 
The  sti-eets  are  generally  too  narrow ;  but  the  banks, 
insurance  offices,  and  churches  are  many  of  them 
handsorr.2  buildings.  The  Square  is  a  large  and  beau- 
tiful tract  of  ground,  near  the  centre  of  the  town. 
About  it  are  seen  many  of  the  finest  private  buildings 
in  the  place,  which,  indeed,  may  be  compared  for  size 
and  elegance  with  those  in  any  part  of  the  United 
States. 

There  is  a  High  School  in  Salem,  besides  18  public 
and  58  private  schools.  In  1828,  the  public  schools 
contained  about  600  boys  and  300  ^irls. 

The  Marine  Museum  is  an  institution  highly  cre- 
ditable to  the  town,  being  an  association  of  respect- 
able nautical  and  commercial  individuals,  formea  for 
the  purpose  of  making  useful  observations,  and  col- 
lecting curiosities  from  all  quarters  of  the  world.  No 
one  can  become  a  member  who  has  not  doubled  Cape 
Horn,  or  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  either  as  master  or 
supercargo  of  a  vessel ;  and  each  of  them  is  supplied 
with  a  journal,  in  which  he  is  to  note  down  sucn  re- 
marks as  he  thinks  important,  during  his  voyages. 


^XARfiLEII£AD. 


365 


These  are  submitted  to  the  inspection  of  a  committee ; 
and  the  curiosities  brought  home  are  deposited  in  a 
handsome  building  belonging  to  the  society,  which  is 
well  worthy  the  particular  attention  of  strangers. 

Access  is  readily  gained  by  application  to  any  of  the 
members:  this  extensive  and  highly  interesting  cabi- 
net being  closed  only  for  the  purpose  of  security,  and 
no  fee  being  required  for  admission.  The  room  is 
large,  well  lighted,  and  tilled  with  curiosities  from 
all  quarters  of  the  world,  and  many  specimens  belong- 
ing t«  all  the  branches  of  natural  history.  The  ar« 
ran^ement  is  made  with  great  taste,  and  several  hours, 
or  mdeed  days,  will  hardly  be  sufficient  for  an  exa- 
mination of  all  it  contains. 

The  following  lines  were  written  after  a  visit  to  this 
interesting   institution,   by  Beltrami,  a  distinguished 
scientific  traveller,  in  the  year  1827  : 
"Siste  Viator!  Siste,  uiirari !  est  Orbis  in  urbe, 
"Et  praBbet  pulchrum  cuncta  miranda  Salem. — 
^'Obstupui,  hie  Superum,  hinc  hominum  prodigia 

vidi, 
"  Pontus,  Magna  Parens,  Ignis  et  Ipse  favent.— 
^  Oh,  America  :  Oh,  felix  tellus,  populusque  beatus ! 
"  Qjiiam  nobis  tollunt  dant  tibi  fata  vicem. — 
The  top  of  the  hoiel  commands  a  fine  and  exten- 
sive view  over  the  town  and  its  environs,  with  the 
harbour,  and  the  fine  coves  which  set  up  on  both  sides. 
A  Mill   Dam  Company  has  been  incorporated,  to  en- 
close a  tract  of  water  near  this  tow;\  to  obtain  power 
for  mills,  on  th?  plan  of  the  Boston  and  Roxbury  mill 
dam*    The  receiving  basin  is  to  be  about  70  acres,  and 
(he  power  equal  to  40  mills. 

Mardlehead. 


There  is  a  good  road  to  this  town,  which  stands  at 
the  end  of  a  rocky  promontory,  4  miles  south-east  from 
Salem.    It  contains  a  handsome  square,  and  some  very 


366 


ROUTK   FKOM   BOSTON    TO    >IAL\K. 


good  houses  ;  but  it  is  principally  inhabited  by  fisher- 
men, whose  manner  of  life  precludes,  in  a  great  de- 
gree, the  intellectual  improvement  generally  so  cha- 
racteristic of  New-England.  The  harbour  is  a  small 
bay,  protected  bv  barren  rocks,  and  affords  shelter  to 
the  numerous  fishing  schooners  employed  in  the  cod 
fishery.  The  men  and  boys  are  absert  from  home  a 
great  part  of  the  year  ;  as  each  ve  sel  usually  makes 
three  fishing  voyages,  or  ^^fares,^  as  they  are  here 
called,  every  season.  Thev  lit'  on  the  banks  until 
they  have  caught  a  load  of  nsh,  which  are  opened  and 
salted  as  soon  as  taken.  The  vessels  then  return,  and 
the  fish  are  spread  to  dry  on  wooden  frames,  called 
flakes ;  great  numbers  of  which  will  be  seen  on  the 
shore.  A  few  vessels  still  go  to  the  Labrador  coast 
lor  fish.  There  is  a  fort  at  the  extremity  of  the  town, 
which  commands  the  entrance  to  the  harbour,  and  af- 
fords a  view  of  many  miles  over  the  neighbouring 
sheets  of  water.  The  islands  at  the  entrance  of  Sa- 
lem are  wild  and  rocky ;  and  the  sea  breaks  over 
them  with  violence  in  an  easterly  storm.  Towards 
the  south  are  seen  several  headlands  of  this  iron-bound 
coast ;  Which,  for  a  great  extent,  even  down  to  the 
extremity  of  Massacnusetts,  must  have  appeared  one 
of  the  most  inhospitable  to  the  pilgrims  who  began 
their  settlements  on  this  part  of  New-England. 

Newburyport. 

Stage  House,  or  Merrimack  Hotel,  on  the  hill.  This 
is  a  large,  and,  to  a  considerable  extent,  a  regularly 
built  town,  38  miles  from  Boston.  The  greater  part 
of  it  lies  in  squares,  and  the  best  streets  are  built  en- 
tirely of  brick.  What  is  commonly  called  Newbury- 
port, however,  is  composed  of  two  distinct  towns. 
The  original  township  of  Newbury  includes  that  part 
which  reaches  to  within  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of 
the  shore  ;  and  the  I'est,  a  mile  along  the  water,  where 
the  wharves,  the  market  building,  most  of  the  stores, 


.NinvmJKvi'oKT. 


J(;7 


shops,  Hcc.  are  found,  is  all  which  is,  properly  speak- 
ing, called  Newburyport,  although  there  is  no  division 
but  an  imaginary  line. 

The  Court  House  makes  a  handsome  appearance,  at 
the  head  of  a  street  running  to  the  river. 

The  monument  of  the  celebrated  Whit^eld  is  to 
be  seen  in  the  First  Presbyterian  Church  in  this  town, 
where  his  remains  lie  interred. 

The  harbour  is  fine,  and  the  place  once  enjoyed  a 
brisk  and  lucrative  commerce ;  but  it  has  suffered  se- 
verely from  two  great  fires,  within  a  few  years,  and 
still  more  from  circumstances  which  cut  off  the  trade. 
A  plan  has  been  proposed  for  the  improvement  of  the 
navigation  of  the  Merrimack,  which,  if  carried  into 
effect,  can  hardly  fail  to  produce  results  of  |[reat  im- 
portance to  the  place.  The  falls  at  Haverhill  cut  off 
the  boat  navigation,  at  the  distance  of  about  12  miles  ; 
but  if  these  were  avoided  by  a  canal,  the  water  com- 
munication would  be  opened  to  Concord,  and  a  great 
part  of  the  products  now  sent  to  Boston,  by  the  Mid- 
dlesex Canal,  would  come  to  Newburyport.  It  is  es- 
timated, that  the  work  woulc  jst  about  two  hundred 
thousand  dollars. 

Stage  Coaches,  The  mail  coacii  h' >m  Boston  foi 
Portland  arrives  at  7  A.  M.  and  returns  about  2  P.  M. 
There  is  also  an  Accommodation  Line,  which  travels 
only  by  daylight.  The  Concord  coach  leaves  Leic 
about  noon. 

The  late  Timothy  Dexter's  house  is  now  a  i.jvern, 
about  half  a  mile  from  the  stage  house  on  the  road  to 
Portsmouth.    The  garden  was  form.erly  curiously  or- 
namented with  wooden  statues  of  distinguished      a 
viduals. 

Mackerel  Fishery.  It  was  estimated,  in  1829,  that 
92  vessels  were  employed  in  the  mackerel  fishery, 
with  a  tonnage  of  4,432  tons,  and  about  740  men,  seven 
months  and  a  h?lf  each  year. 

The  bridge  over  the  Merrimack  is  a  most  beautiful 
structure,    ft??  lengrth  is  lOOO  feet ;   and.  it  has  ionv 


!i 


ROUTE   FROM   DOSTON   TO   MJilNki. 


arches  and  a  draw-bridge,  on  the  side  towards  tlie 
town.  The  arches  are  supported  by  twelve  chains, 
carried  over  four  towers  in  tne  form  of  pyramids,  31 
feet  above  high  water  mark.  The  bases  of  these 
towers  are  of  hewn  stone,  40  by  30  feet  built  on  tim- 
ber, each  with  a  breakwater  up  the  stream.  The 
chains,  separately,  are  strong  enough  to  bear  22  tons. 
The  bridge,  with  the  road  to  Newburyport,  cost 
$66,000. 

Hampton,  10  miles.  At  Hampton  Beach  is  a  good 
hotel,  which  commands  an  agreeable  view  upon  the 
ocean,  and  the  shore  about  the  Boards  Head. 

Portsmouth, 

62  miles  from  Boston,  58  ^rom  Portland. 

^    Brown's  Stage  House. 

The  environs  of  the  town  show  many  neat  and 
pleasant  houses  of  wood  ;  and  the  middle  part  of  it  is 
principally  of  brick,  with  some  handsome  public 
buildings,  although  the  streets  are  generally  too  nar- 
row. It  has  been  a  place  of  much  commerce.  The 
old  church  is  a  specimen  of  old  times.  The  Navy 
Yard,  on  an  island  opposite  the  town,  contains  two 
lai^e  ship  buildings,  one  for  frigates  and  the  other  for 
line-of-battle  ships. 

The  bridge  across  (he  Piscataqua,  leads  into  the 
state  of  Maine,  which  was,  until  within  a  few 
years,  a  district  of  Massachusetts.  The  current  is 
very  strong.  The  navy  yard  is  seen  on  the  east,  with 
the  ship  houses,  &c.  13  ships  of  war  have  been  built 
in  this  port  since  1690.  The  Santee,  74,  and  Ala- 
bama, 74,  are  on  the  stocks. 

[AmeF,bury  is  a  manufacturing  place  on  the  Powow 
River,  3  miles  from  Newburypt*  ^  The  river  is  made 
to  drain  several  ponds  by  an  arched  tunnel  dug: 
through  a  hill  about  a  century  igo.    There  is  a  Nai' 


THE   KUBBLE. 


369 


Factory  he\e,  originally  built  by  the  famous  me- 
chanist Jacob  Perkins.  A  Rolling  and  Slitting  Mill  is 
adjoining.  Extensive  Anchor  Works,  now  standing 
still,  are  on  the  same  dam.  ' 

The  Broadcloth  Factory,  supplied  with  water  by  a 
dam  below,  is  also  not  in  operation.  The  Salisbury 
Flannel  Factory  has  2500  spmdles,  employs  80  hands, 
and  makes  100  pieces  of  flannel  weekly.  They  have 
built  a  much  larger  one  at  the  upper  falls.  The 
AfMshury  Flannel  Factory  h^v^  a  building  40  feet  by 
130,  4  stories  high,  with  6000  spindles,  180  workmen, 
and  makes  200  pieces  a  week.  Houses  for  dying, 
bleaching,  and  fulling  are  on  the  whitrf.  There  is  also 
a  machine  shop.  Men  receive  %\,  and  women  50  cts. 
a  day.  '  '  "Y  * 

The  building  is  200  feet  long,  50  wide,  5  stories 
high,  and  will  contain  10,000  spindles,  and  make  400 
pieces  in  a  week.  All  the  Flannel  Works  in  full  ope- 
ration will  make  35,000  pieces  of  flannel  in  a  year,  ajid 
eniploy  about  1000  hands.       '    '     ' "    ■•■^-^^H'lAysmim^ 

There  are  several  other  mills  and  factories  ;  though 
the  whole  ground  occupied  is  only  40  rods.] 

The  country  on  this  road  is  of  a  gently  rolling  form, 
generally  very  poor,  without  trees,  and  changing  only 
from  sand  to  rocks ;  and  affords  very  few  objects  of 
interest,  except  an  occasional  view  of  the  seashore, 
and  several  spots  remarkable  for  their  connexion  with 
the  history  of  the  country. 

York.  There  are  so  ne  pleasant  fields  about  this 
little  place,  but  its  size  is  insigniticant,  particularly 
when  contrasted  with  the  anticipations  formed  of  its 
destiny  at  the  time  of  its  first  settlement ;  for  the 
ground  was  laid  out  for  a  city,  and  the  divisions  of  the 
land  still  retain  much  of  the  regular  form  given  it  by 
the  first  surveyors. 

The  Nubble  is  a  rocky  point,  4i  miles  from  York, 
with  a  cluster  of  miserable  huts  in  the  rear,  called,  in 
derision,  the  city,  or  metropolis  of  Cape  Neddock, 
from  a  point  of  that  name  still  further  on.  ^ 

U 


liOli'fJJ   IN    MA1]\£. 


•  While  travelling  along  this  dreaij  country,  near  the 
place  where  a  round  hill  of  a  pecunar  appearance  first 
presents  itself  in  front,  and  then  the  ocean,  the  road 
passes  the  site  of  an  old  fort  or  blockhouse,  built  be- 
fore Philip's  war.  Nothing  is  now  to  be  seen  of  it 
from  the  road,  excepting  a  part  of  the  old  wall,  which 
is  built  of  large  stones,  laid  with  greater  regularity 
than  is  practised  now.  A  hovel  stands  near  tne  wall, 
shaded  by  a  few  trees,  about  100  yards  west  of  the 
road. 

The  Agamenticus  Mills  form  a  range  some  distance 
west. 

Lower  Welles.  There  is  a  little  harbour  here,  de- 
fended by  a  sand  bar,  with  a  narrow  entrance  under  a 
rock  :  but  it  is  almost  dry  at  low  water. 

Welles*  The  sea  often  breaks  beautifully  on  the 
beach,  in  front  of  the  tavern.  Porpoise  point  is  just 
distinguished  in  the  north-east ;  and  the  view  of  the 
sea  is  fine  and  refreshing. 

Three  miles  beyond  is  Breakneck  Hill,  over  which 
£aills  a  small  stream,  from  the  height  of  30  feet,  about 
40  yards  from  the  path.  Here,  says  a  blind  tradition, 
a  small  tribe  of  Indians  met  an  indiscriminate  destruc- 
tion, in  the  following  manner.  Being  on  their  return 
from  their  annual  fishing  excursion  on  the  upper  part 
of  the  stream,  they  despatched  some  of  their  number 
to  make  a  fire  on  the  rock  which  divides  the  falls,  as 
thev  found  they  should  not  reach  this  place  before 
night.  The  white  men  in  the  neighbourhood,  by  some 
means  learning  their  design,  shot  the  messengers,  and 
then  collecting  the  limbs  of  trees,  made  a  great  fire  on 
the  hi^h  bank  below  on  the  opposite  'side  of  the  road. 
The  Indians,  says  the  story,  oeing  deceived,  did  not 
attempt  to  stop  their  canoes  in  season,  and  were  all 
carried  over  the  falls  and  killed.  A  similar  tale  is  re- 
lated, with  more  appearance  of  credibility,  of  the  falls 
on  the  Androscoggm  River. 

The  Fort  waslialf  a  mile  beyond,  or  a  quarter  of  a 
inUe  north  from  the  church.    The  site  is  distinguished 


PORTLAND. 


o  1 1 


by  the  angle  of  an  old  wall,  built  of  lar^e,  regular,  but 
unhewn  stones,  on  the  east  side  of  the  road.  The 
marks  of  the  foundation  appear  to  be  yet  visible  a  little 
back,  and  the  situation  is  very  pleasant,  with  a  smooth 
plain  around  it,  and  a  gentle  slope  in  the  rear  to  a  little 
meadow,  where  the  settlers  used  to  obtain  their  hay. 
The  ocean  is  in  full  view  below.  This  little  fortress 
was  once  attacked  by  500  Indians,  who  at  first  sup- 

Eosed,  as  was  the  fact,  that  the  men  were  absent  from 
ome.  The  place  was,  however,  very  bravely  and 
successfully  defended  by  five  women,  who  put  on  their 
husbands'  clothes,  and  nred  so  warmly  upon  their  in- 
vaders, as  to  force  them  to  retreat. 

Kennebunkf  25  miles  from  Portland.  Here  the  mail 
coach  from  Portland  stops  for  breakfast.  It  is  a  small 
place,  but  once  carried  on  a  considerable  lumber  trade 
with  the  West  Indies. 

SacOf  fifteen  miles  from  Portland.  Just  south  of  this 
village  is  the  mouth  of  the  Saco,  which  rises  on  Mount 
Washington.  Cutt's  Island  of  75  acres  divides  the 
stream,  just  at  the  falls,  and  has  been  converted  to  ma- 
nufacturing purposes. 

The  first  mawufactoij  erected  by  the  company  was 
intended  for  1,300  spmdles  and  360  Iboms.  It  was 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1830 :  loss  estimated  at  J|300,000. 
The  soil  here  is  very  rocky,  easily  furnishing  mate- 
rials for  building,  which  has  lately  commenced  on  a 
large  scale.  The  fail  is  about  tnirty  feet,  the  water 
abundant  at  all  seasons,  and  there  is  a  landing  place  for 
vesselsonly  a  few  yards  distant,  which  might  greatly  fa- 
vour the  transportation  of  raw  and  manufactured  articles. 
The  land  bought  in  1825  on  the  island  with  a  portion 
of  the  water  power,  cost  about  J[ 1 00,000.  Great  quan- 
tities of  timber  have  long  been  sawn  at  these  falls. 

PORTLAND,  15  miles. 

Mitchell's  Hotel.     The  Sta^e  House. 

The  situation  of  this  place  js  remarkably  fine,  occu- 


jioiTE  IN  maim:. 


pying;  the  ridge  and  side  of  a  high  point  of  land  with 
a  handsome,  though  shallow  bay,  on  one  side,  and  the 
harbour  on  the  other.  The  anchorage  is  protected  on 
every  side  by  land,  the  water  is  deep,  and  the  com- 
munication with  the  sea  direct  and  convenient.  Con- 
gress-street runs  along  the  ridge  of  the  hill,  and  con- 
tains a  number  of  very  elegant  private  houses.  There 
is  also  the  Town  Hall,  with  the  Market  below,  the 
Custom-House,  and  a  beautiful  new  church,  with  gra- 
nite columns.  The  steps  are  fine  blocks  of  granite,  6 
feet  by  9,  brought  from  the  quarry  at  Brunswick,  22 
miles  distant,  and  cost  about  $40  each.  This  street 
rises,  as  it  approaches  the  end  of  the  neck,  or  promon- 
tory, to  the  ObservcUory,  a  tower  82  feet  high,  and,  with 
its  base,  142  feet  above  the  water,  commanding  an  ex- 
tensive and  very  fine  view  on  every  side. 

From  the  Observatory,  south  and  south-west  are 
several  distant  eminences :  among  others,  the  Agamen- 
ticus  Hills ;  north-west  are  seen,  in  clear  weather,  the 
lofty  ridges  and  peaks  of  the  White  Hills  in  New- 
Hampshire,  which  are  discovered  at  sea,  often  before 
the  nearer  land  appears  in  sight.  The  country  on  the 
north  presents  little  that  is  interesting,  and  the  water 
nearer  at  hand  is  only  an  inlet  of  the  sea. 

Cape  Elizabeth  is  the  highland  on  the  south  side  of 
the  harbour ;  and  the  islands,  which  nearly  close  its 
entrance,  are  called  Bang's  and  House  Islands.  Fort 
Preble  stands  on  the  former,  and  Fort  Scammel,  only 
a  blockhouse,  on  the  latter.  It  is  proposed  by  the 
United  States  to  expend  j|ll65,000  in  enlarging  these 
defences.  Due  east  is  oeguin  Lighthouse,  which  is 
visible  in  clear  weather,  32  miles  distant,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Kennebec.  Nearer,  and  in  the  same  quarter, 
lie  numerous  islands  of  various  forms,  and  divided  by 
little  channels  and  bays,  some  of  which  are  deep. 
They  are  generally  covered  with  trees  and  rocks,  but 
present  a  beautiful  variety  to  the  view  in  that  direc- 
tion. Their  number  is  not  known,  but  is  usually  esti- 
mated at  365,  to  correspond  with  that  of  the  days  in 
the  year. 


PORTLAND. 


J7:i 


rhe  iiUicnchmenls  on  the  hill^  west  ot  the  Observa- 
tory, belong  to  Fort  Sumner,  and  part  of  them  were 
made  in  the  Revolutionary  war.  Under  the  bluff,  on 
the  water^s  edge,  is  Fort  Burroughs.  ,i .      :/,,»/ 

Falmouth  (the  former  name  of  rortland)  was  burnt 
'in  the  Revolutionary  war  by  Capt.  Mowatt,  in  the 
British  sloop  of  war  Canceau,  on  the  18th  of  October, 
1775,  on  the  refusal  of  the  inhabitants  to  deliver  up 
their  arms.  About  130  houses,  three-quarters  of  all 
the  place  contained,  were  consumed,  some  being  set 
on  nre  with  brands,  after  a  cannonade  and  bombard- 
ment of  9  hours.  The  old  church  is  among  the  build- 
ings saved,  and  has  the  mark  of  a  cannon  shot  in  it. 
A  small  part  of  Mitcheirs  hotel  belonged  to  one  of 
the  houses  not  destroyed.        ,  .  j   i;  k&hwj 

There  are  some  fine  stores  and  dwelling-nouses  in 
the  middle  of  the  town,  and  the  shore  is  lined  with 
wharves  and  shipping :  for  the  place  is  beginning  to 
prosper  again,  althoui^h  it  has  lost  an  extensive  trade 
which  it  cannot  recover.  There  is  a  small  Museum 
in  the  place.    At  the  Athenaeum  will  be  found  newg- 

gapers  from  different  parts  of  the  countiy,  a  library, 
;c.  In  1827  there  were  10  primary  schools  here,  con- 
taining 1095  pupils.  Four  of  the  schools  were  on  the 
monitorial  plan.  There  is  a  Female  Orphan  Asylum 
recently  established  here. 

Remarks  to  the  Traveller  at  Portland.  The  Boston 
Mail  Coach  leaves  here  every  morning  at  4,  and 
reaches  Boston  at  9  P.  M.;  the  Accommodation  at  8, 
and  arrives  next  day,  stopping  for  the  night  at  Ports- 
mouth.* 

!  '♦  The  following  prices  were  charged  in  the  steamboats,  between 

different  placoH,  in  1828. 

From  Boston  to  Augueta,  forward  cabin  $4,  after  do.   96 
From  Boston  to  Bntli,  do.  3,      do.  5       ' '  ' 

From  Boston  to  Portland,  do.  3,50  do.  4  < 

From  Portland  to  Hallowell  and  Augusta, 2  35 

From  Portland  to  Batti, 100     ^ 

From  Batii  to  Richmond, 0  50     > 

From  Bath  to  Gardiner,  100     .7 

From  Bath  to  Hallowell  and  Augusta, 125 

I  i2 


;t7'i 


UOiriJ    IN   IIALVI.. 


The  communication  with  Doviir,  Concord,  AiC.  is 
tRBsy,  anrl  tho  traveller  (icoing  in  thnt  direction  is  rr- 
ferred  to  the  Index  for  tho.su  and  other  oinces  in  his 
way.  He  may  take  the  roule  to  the  While  Hills  by 
Fiyehurpfh  ;  the  road  lends  Ihroiigh  a  wild  and  thinly 
populated  country,  hut  is  not  d<*void  of  interest.  The 
atajfe  coach  reaches  Conway  in  a  d  'V  by  this  route, 
passinf^  throup^h  Gorham,  Standish,  nahfwin,  Hiram, 
and  Frychurp^h. 

The  eastern  and  north-eastern  routes  only,  remain 
^0  be  spoken  of.  The  road  alon^;  the  seacoast  is  more 
uninteresting,  f)assing  over  a  rockv  soil,  and  is  recom- 
mended in  ffolnp:  from  Portlancl.  The  upper  road 
leads  through  a  considerable  extent  of*  Certile  countiy, 
indeed  the  garden  of  Maine,  and  shows  several  plea- 
sant and  flourishing  villages,  by  which  it  may  be  more 
agreeable  to  return.  The  settlement  of  a  great  part 
of  that  region,  still,  is  so  recent,  that  the  traveller  will 
not  find  so  good  accommod.it ions,  nor  so  many  objects 
of  interest,  as  in  many  other  parts  of  the  U.  States. 
The  inhabitants,  however,  are  mcreasing  very  rapidly, 
and  great  improvements  of  every  kind  are  annually 
introduced,  which  produce  a  scene  of  great  activity 
and  prosperity,  particularly  between  the  Kennebec 
and  renoDscot  Rivers. 

Kenarks  on  the  Country  North-East  prom 

Portland. 

In  consequence  of  the  position,  the  climate,  and  soil 
of  Maine,  the  improvement  of  the  country  has  been 
much  retarded.  Settlements  were  made  on  the  coast 
as  early  as  1607,  and  several  others  not  long  afterward  ; 
but  they  suffered  s»^vcrely  in  the  Indian  wars,  and  their 
vicinity  to  the  French  missions,  which  embraced  all 
the  eastern  part  of  the  present  state,  exposed  them  to 
imminent  danger.  In  later  times  the  population  was 
principally  confined  to  the  seacoast,  for  the  conve- 
nience of  fishing  and  commerce,  and  thus  the  good 


KKMAUkN  (IN    TllAW.LMNC    LV    >I,\1NK.        'Mh 

land,  which  lies  Homc  distanco  back  in  the  country, 
was  nlmoHt  entirely  neglected.  After  the  revolu- 
tionary war,  this  extennive  region  remained  in  the  con- 
dition of  a  dintrict  helonffinii^  to  MassachuHettM.  Within 
a  fev  years  it  hiH  hecn  rereiv»;d  into  the  Union  as  a 
separate  Ntate  ;  and  ag'ricullure  havinu:  heen  intro- 
duced, the  emigration  I'roni  the  nei^hnourin^  .stateH 
has  rapidly  swelled  its  population.  In  1H28  there 
were  iJ'J  new^tpapers  in  the  state  of  Mainf . 

In  travellinp:  in  IVIaine,  the  Htrang:er  observes  the 
same  order  of  things  as  in  the  interior  of  New-York, 
Ohio,  and  other  parts  of  the  country  which  are  fast 
improvinf(.  It  is  but  a  few  years  since  agriculture 
was  almost  unknown  here,  and  now  thn  interior  re((ion 
between  the  Kenm-bec  and  Penobscot  Rivers  is  well 
pec^pled,  and  presents  a  scene  of  rural  cultivation  and 
prosperity  rarely  equalled.  That  is  of  course  the  most 
attractive  route  for  the  traveller;  and  the  road  from 
Portland  lies  through  Aueusta  and  llallowell.  Those 
who  are  goinj?  to  Ncw-Brnnswick,  &c.  are  advised  to 
take  this  route,  unless  they  prefer  the  less  fatiguing 
mode  of  travelling  in  the  steamboat. 

Most  persons  going  eastward  from  Portland,  will 
wish  to  return ;  and  the  brief  tour  vyhich  we  shall 
give  will  be  planned  for  their  convenience  and  plea- 
sure, by  proceeding  first  along  the  seacoast,  and  then 
returning  through  the  fine  tract  of  country  in  the  in- 
terior. 

It  may  be  proper  here  to  mention,  that  two  roads 
have  been  projected  to  Quebec ;  one  by  the  River 
Kennebec,  ancf  the  other  by  the  Penobscot.  At  pre- 
sent there  are  no  roads  through  the  northern  wilder- 
ness, though  a  communication  has  been  kept  up  that 
way  for  several  years,  and  herds  of  cattle  are  occa- 
sionally driven  into  Canada.  The  hardy  and  enter- 
prising traveller  may,  perhaps,  be  willing  to  encoun- 
ter the  inconvenience  of  lodging  in  the  open  air,  and 
such  fare  as  the  wilderness  affords;  but  few  will 


M 


376 


u^UTji:  IN  maim:. 


attempt  the  route  for  pleasure,  until  the  intended  im- 
provements shall  have  been  made. 

For  the  distances  of  the  principal  places  on  the  route; 
trom  Portland  to  Qjuebec,  see  page  235, 236. 

Canals  projectbd  in  Maine. 

From  Sebago  Pond  to  Portland,  This  would  re- 
quire an  excavation  of  only  6  miles  to  effect  a  commu- 
nication between  a  chain  of  jponds  or  lakes,  capable  of 
furnishing  lai^e  supplies  of  timber,  and  many  products 
of  ag;riculture,  if  settlements  were  once  encouraged. 

From  the  Androscoggin  at  Wayne's  Mills,  to  the 
Kennebec  at  Gardner.  There  is  a  dead  water  naviga- 
tion to  within  five  miles  of  the  former,  but  then  there  is 
an  ascent  of  260  feet  to  the  level  of  its  current. 

JlouTE  FROM  Portland  to   Belfast,  Ca6tine, 

Bangor,  &c. 

Travelling  round  to  the  head  of  Casco  Bay,  you  pass 
through  North  Yarmouth  and  Freeport,  and  arrive  at 
Brunswick,  26  miles.  This  is  the  site  of  Bowdoin 
College,  the  principal  institution  of  the  state.  It  was 
burnt  a  few  years  ago  ;  but  has  been  rebuilt,  and  con- 
tains a  good  number  of  students.  It  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  an  elevated  level. 

There  is  a  fall  on  the  Androscoggin  river  at  this 
place ;  below  which  booms  are  extended  across  to 
keep  together  the  lumber  which  is  brought  down 
every  season  in  great  quantities. 

The  whole  road  from  Portland  to  Bath,  34  mites,  lies 
along  the  coast,  where  the  soil  is  rocky  and  poor. 


Bath 

is  a  town  of  considerable  trade,  situated  on  the  Ken- 
nebec, at  the  distance  of  16  miles  from  the  sea.    Here 


HOOTll    HAY. 


:i77 


me  several  public  buildings,  and  amone  the  rest,  two 
banks.  If  tne  arrangements  be  now  as  neretofore,  the 
steamboat  will  leave  Bath  every  day,  except  Sunday, 
at  noon,  and  arrives  at  Au'/usta  the  same  evening, 
touching  at  Richmond,  Gardiner,  and  Hallowell. 
fVoolwich  is  opposite  Bath. 

WiSCASSET,       ' 

14  miles  from  Bath.  This  is  one  of  the  principal  ports 
of  the  state,  and  has  an  excellent  harbour,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Sheepscot  River. 

Stage  Coaches  run  north  to  Bangor,  on  the  Penob- 
scot. They  pass  through  Newcastle,  Nobleborough, 
Waldoborougn,  Union,  Appleton,  Searsmont,  and  Bel- 
mont. There  are  two  branch  lines :  one  to  Thomas- 
town  through  Warren ;  and  another  to  Hamden, 
through  Camden,  Lincolnshire,  Northport,  Belfast, 
Swanville,  and  Frankfort. 

From  Wiscasset  to  Damascotta  is  rough  and  rocky  ; 
but  the  ride  presents  many  interesting  views,  as  the 
landscape  is  continually  cnanging,  and  is  often  varied 
by  the  sight  of  Damascotta  River,  and  several  beauti- 
ful  little  fakes  or  ponds. 

Damascotta  Bridge.  Here  is  a  considerable  village, 
at  the  distance  of  16  miles  from  the  seacoast. 


m- 
Ire 


Booth  Bay 

lies  off  the  road  from  Wiscasset  to  Damascotta.  It 
has  a  commodious  harbour,  with  a  number  of  islands 
in  the  vicinity ;  and  the  neighbouring  high  srround 
affords  a  very  fine  and  extensive  view.  The  hill,  on 
the  eastern  side  of  the  bay,  was  surveyed  for  a  city 
in  the  early  part  of  the  fast  centurv,  which  was  to 
have  borne  the  name  of  Townsend,  l)ut  the  building 
of  it  was  never  begun.  The  harbour  has  been  con- 
sidered a  ^ood  site  for  a  naval  depot. 
Avtiquitieff.    Two  or  three  miles  off  the  road,  be- 


•378 


ROUTE   IN   MAINE. 


twecn  Linniken's  Bay  and  Damascotta  River,  wherr* 
was  formerly  an  Indian  carrying-place,  the  remains  of 
cellar  wails  and  chimneys  are  found,  as  also  broken 
kettles,  wedges,  &c.  At  the  head  of  the  bay  are  the 
hulks  of  two  or  three  large  vessels  sunk  in  the  water ; 
and  on  the  shore,  the  ruins  of  an  old  grist-mill,  where 
the  present  one  stands.  On  the  islands  opposite  the 
town,  are  other  ruins^  the  history  of  which  is  unknown, 
as  well  as  that  of  those  already  mentioned.  The  only 
fact  which  seems  to  afford  any  clew  to  their  origin, 
is,  that  Sir  John  Popham  made  an  attempt  to  build  a 
town  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec,  in  the  year  1607. 

Waldoborouoh,  10  miles. 
Warren,  7  miles. 


'p. 


Thomastown, 

Central  Village,  6  miles.  Here  are  quarries  of  mar- 
ble and  limestone,  from  the  latter  of  which  about 
100,000  barrels  of  lime  are  made  evenr  year  for  ex- 
portation. The  marble  is  also  wrought  in  consider- 
able quantities.  A  visit  to  the  woncshops  may  be 
interesting,  as  the  operation  of  polishing  is  performed 
by  machinery  moved  by  water.  There  is  a  cotton 
manufactory  on  Mill  River.  The  village  is  15  miles 
from  the  sea. 

The  State  Prison  stands  in  a  commanding  and  plea- 
sant situation.  It  has  50  solitary  cells,  built  of  granite, 
in  blocks  from  4  to  6  feet  in  length,  and  2  in  thick- 
ness. Each  cell  has  an  opening  at  the  top,  with  small 
holes  in  the  v^alls  for  the  admission  of  fresh  air,  which, 
during  the  winter  season,  is  warmed  before  it  is  ad- 
mitted. The  Warden's  house  is  also  built  of  granite, 
and  is  two  stories  high,  placed  in  the  middle,  with  a 
row  of  cells  on  each  side.  The  prison  yard  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  circular  wooden  paling,  and  encloses 
nearly  three  acres,  in  which  is  a  lime  quany.    Sevt> 


fmffmmr^imm 


LIBEC. 


3W 


rai  workshops  on  the  ground  serve  the  purposes  of  the 
convicts,  who  are  employed  in  burning  lime  and  other 
manufactures. 

The  Knox  Estate,  About  half  a  mile  from  the  State 
Prison  is  the  ancient  residence  of  the  late  General 
Knox.  The  mansion  was  three  stories  high,  large,  and 
elegant,  particularly  for  a  country  so  little  cultivated 
and  inhabited  as  this  at  the  time  of  its  erection.  It  is 
now  in  a  state  of  great  decay  ;  but  some  of  the  re- 
maining decorations  of  the  grounds  may  give  an  idea 
of  its  original  appearance.  The  approach  to  the 
house  is  through  a  cypress  grove ;  and  in  front  of  it 
extends  a  handsome  grass-plat.  General  Knox  was 
one  of  Washington's  principal  officers,  and  acted  a 
conspicuous  part  in  the  revolutionaiy  war  and  in  the 
government. 

From  Thomastown  to  Belfast,  (30  miles,)  the  road 
is  hard,  and  commands  man^  views  of  Penobscot  Bajr, 
with  a  few  islands  on  the  right,  and  a  partially  culti- 
vated country  on  the  left,  with  some  mountainous 
scenes.  Beltast  is  a  flourishing  port,  pleasantly  situ- 
ated on  the  side  of  a  hill.  The  road  hence  to  dastine, 
round  the  bay,  is  35  miles,  passing  through  Prospect, 
Buckport,  Orland,  and  Penobscot. 

Cacdne  was  taken  during  the  late  war  by  a  fleet, 
and  the  British  intrenchments  are  to  be  seen  on  the 
hill  above. 

Eastport  is  important  as  the  frontier  post  of  the 
United  States  on  the  seacoast  towards  the  British 
possessions.  It  is  on  the  south-eastern  part  of  Moose 
Island,  in  Passamaquoddy  Bay,  and  connected  with 
the  mainland  by  a  bridge.  The  spot  was  almost  un- 
inhabited 30  years  ago ;  but  now  it  contains  three 
places  of  worship.  There  are  fortifications  and  a  few 
troops.  A  line  of  steamboats  is  established  between 
this  place  and  Boston,  touching  at  Portland,  &c. 

Luhec  is  situated  near  the  entrance  of  the  Bay,  op- 
posite Campobello. 


v3 


..  y 


380 


ROUTE  tS  MAINE. 


s=j 


I ) 


^ '  Perryt  the  village  of  the  Passamaquoddy  Indian 
lies  northward  from  Eastport. 

On  the  Schoodic  River  the  land  is  high,  and  the 
scenes  striking.  Robbinston  stands  at  its  mouth ;  and 
Calais  12  miles  above,  at  the  head  of  navigation.  The 
country  north  and  west  of  this  place  is  said  to  be  very 
valuable  for  grazing,  being  undulating,  with  a  good 
soil  and  climate,  and  at  present  well  wooded,  with 
conveniences  for  transportation  by  sea. 

The  road  from  Belfast  to  Bangor  lies  along  the 
course  of  the  Penobscot  River. 


Bangor 


■'U    '»,IJj.v 


■Vi'' 


is  a  very  flourishing  village,  newly  risen  into  impor- 
tance, in  consequence  of  having  taken  a  good  deal  of 
the  interior  trade  from  Belfast.  It  occupies  a  com- 
manding position  for  this  object,  and  is  undoubtedly 
destined  to  experience  a  great  and  rapid  increase, 
proportioned  to  the  extension  of  settlements  in  the 
upper  country.  The  number  of  inhabitants  increased 
between  1820  and  1825,  from  122i  to  2002.  The 
scenery  here  begins  to  assume  much  of  that  mountain- 
ous character,  which  prevails  so  extensively  through 
a  large  part  of  the  interior.  A  very  conspicuous  and 
noble  eminence  is  observed  at  a  distance  in  the  north, 
called  Ktardin  Mountain,  the  elevation  of  which  has 
never,  it  is  believed,  been  accurately  ascertained.  It 
is  considered  the  highest  land  in  the  state,  and  has 
been  compared  for  altitude  with  Mount  Washington  in 
New-Hampshire :  whether  with  justice  or  not,  a  scien- 
tific measurement  will  determine. 

In  the  year  1825  the  land  agents  visited  a  tract  of 
country  inhabited  by  about  two  thousand  persons,  who 
had  been  before  unknown  as  belonging  to  the  state, 
having  never  been  represented  in  the  legislature,  or 
incluoed  in  any  census.  They  are  partfy  descend- 
ants of  refugees,  and  partly  half-pay  officers,  Irish  and 
Scotch.    The  vast  tract  of  wilderness  intervening  he.- 


i»£GIP8C0T  FALLS. 


381 


tween  them  and  the  lower  country  had  prevented  in- 
tercourse. Their  country  is  rich  and  beautiful,  on  the 
St.  John's  River,  near  the  boundary  of  N.  Brunswick ; 
and  many  of  them  desired  to  be  received  into  the 
jurisdiction  of  the  State  Government.  The  question 
nas  already  caused  much  excitement. 

The  ope i ling  of  a  road  along  the  course  of  the  Pe- 
nobscot to  Q,uebec,  by  the  va^  of  St.  John's,  the  sur- 
vey of  which  bas  been  authorized,  for  which  the  state 
have  appropriated  $5000,  on  condition  that  Massa- 
chusetts will  do  as  much,  cannot  fail  to  accelerate  the 
settlement  of  this  country,  and  to  increase  the  value 
and  the  products  of  the  soil.  It  will  also  prove  here- 
after a  very  convenient  route  for  travellers  goin^  to 
and  from  Canada,  and  doubtless  form  a  part  oi  the 
grand  northern  tour,  which  will  then  be  complete. 

Steamboats  will  be  placed  on  the  route  from  Bos- 
ton to  the  Kennebec. 

From  Bangor  we  begin  our  return  to  Portland, 
taking  the  route  through  the  finest  part  of  the  state  of 
Maine.  The  road  to  Augusta  and  Hallowell  on  the 
Kennebec,  lies  through  a  region  rapidly  improving 
under  the  management  of  an  active,  industrious,  and 
increasing  population.  The  value  of  the  soil  has 
greatly  advanced  within  a  short  time,  and  it  is  the 
grand  centre  of  emigration.  There  is  another  road 
to  Hallowell  through  Bath.  Coaches  travel  each  way 
three  times  a  week. 

Augusta  is  a  considerable  town  and  very  flourishing. 
It  is  situated  at  the  falls  of  the  Kennebec,  where  the 
water  on  the  descent  of  the  channel  is  sutlicient  to  set 
in  moiion  several  hundred  wheels,  and  will  probably 
be  hereafter  extensively  employed  for  manufacturing 
purposes. 

At  the  mouth  of  this  river  at  Georgetown,  beryls 
have  been  found,  in  a  ridge  of  granite  countiy.    Some 
are  15  inches  long  and  6  thick.    They  are  associated 
with  schorl. 
,    Pegipscot  Falls.    Near  Lewistown,  on  the  Andre- 


M 
.ii 


382 


ROUTE   IN   MAIMK. 


!  ( 


scogein  River,  is  a  remarkable  cataract,  where  the  cur^ 
rent  breaks  through  a  range  of  mountains,  and  pours 
over  a  broken  ledge  of  rocks.  The  scene  is  wild  and 
striking,  and  derives  an  additional  interest  from  its 
connexion  with  the  histor}'  of  a  tribe  of  Indians  long 
since  extinct. 

According  to  a  tradition  current  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, the  upper  parts  of  this  stream  were  formerly  the 
residence  of  the  Rockmego  Indians,  who  inhabited  a 
fine  and  fertile  plain  through  which  the  river  winds. 
The  situation  was  remote,  and  they  had  never  en- 
gaged in  any  hostilities  with  the  whiles,  but  devoted 
themselves  to  hunting  and  rishing.  The  ground  still 
contains  many  remains  of  their  weapons,  utensils,  &c. 
They  were,  however,  at  length  persuaded  to  engage 
in  a  Hostile  incursion  against  Brunswick,  at  that  time 
an  exposed  frontier  settlement ;  and  the  whole  tribe 
embarked  in  their  canoes  to  accomplish  the  enter- 
prise. The  stream  flows  gently  on  tor  a  ^reat  dis- 
tance, until  it  approaches  very  near  to  the  falls  ;  and 
this  was  the  spot  appointed  for  the  night  encampment. 
Night  set  in  before  their  arrival ;  and  they  sent  two 
men  forward  to  make  fires  upon  the  banks  a  little 
above  the  cataract.  For  some  unknown  reason  the 
fires  were  kindled  below  the  falls ;  and  the  Indians, 
being  thus  deceived  concerning  their  situation,  did  not 
brin^  up  their  canoes  to  the  shore  in  season,  and  were 
carried  over  the  rocks,  and  the  tribe  all  destroyed  toge- 
ther. Their  bodies,  it  is  said,  were  carried  by  the 
stream  down  to  the  village  they  had  intended  to  at- 
tack. 

The  hills  near  the  falls  afford  many  evidences  of 
having  been  the  residence  ol  Indians,  who  were  cut 
off  by  the  whites,  in  a  sudden  attack,  many  years 
ago. 


OITY   OP  WASHINGTON. 


38.S 


f 
t 


WASHINGTON. 

Gadshy's  Hotel,  Pennsylvania  Jivenue. — Numerous 
hotels  ana  boardings-houses  also  offer  handsome  accom- 
modations, particularly  during  the  sessions  of  Con- 
gress. 

The  seat  of  Government  of  the  United  States  is 
situated  between  the  Potomac  River  and  its  eastern 
branch,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  above  their  junction. 
It  is  divided  into  three  <listinct  parts,  which  are  built 
about  the  Navy  Yard,  the  Capitol  Hill,  and  the  Penn- 
sylvania Avenue.  The  Capitol  is  an  immense  build- 
ing, with  two  wings,  surrounded  by  an  open  piece  of 
ground,  terraced  in  front,  and  occupying  an  eleva- 
tion, which  renders  it  a  conspicuous  object  for  several 
miles. 

The  original  plan  of  the  city  was  very  extensive : 
the  principal  streets  meeting  from  all  points  of  the 
compass  at  the  Capitol,  an  ;  bearing  the  names  of  the 
older  states  of  the  union.  Some  of  the  minor  streets 
are  known  by  the  names  of  the  letters  of  the  alpha- 
bet;  and  tracts  of  ground  were  reserved  tor  public 
squares.  As  Washington,  however,  is  chiefly  de- 
pendent on  the  government  for  its  support,  the  original 
scheme  has  been  but  faintly  realized,  and  many  oTthe 
streets  have  not  even  been  opened. 

During  the  sessions  of  Congress,  the  place  is  throi^ed 
with  strangers  from  all  parts  of  the  country ;  and  thOs. 
sessions  ot  the  Senate  and  Representatives,  the  pro- 
ceedings of  the  Supreme  Court,  the  levees  at  the 
President's  House,  the  parties  at  the  foreign  ministers', 
&c.  afford  ample  opportunities  for  amusements  of  va- 
rious kinds.  At  other  sensons,  however,  there  is  little 
to  interest  the  siranger^except^the  public  buildings  and 
the  Navy  Yard. 


.184  oity  of  washington. 

The  Capitol 

presents,  in  the  interior,  specimens  of  various  styles  of 
architecture.  The  whole  front  is  352  feet  4  inches 
in  leng^th ;  and  the  wings  are  121  feet  6  inches  deep. 
The  eastern  prelection  is  65  feet ;  the  western  88. 
The  building  covers  an  acre  and  a  half  and  1830  feet. 
The  wings,  to  the  top  of  the  balustrade,  are  70  feet 
high,  the  centre  dome  95. 

Representatives'  Room,  greatest  length,      ,    95  ft. 
Representatives'  Room,  greatest  height,       .    60 
Senate  Chamber,  greatest  length,   ....     74 
Senate  Chamber,  greatest  height,   ....    42 
Great  Central  Rotunda,  96  feet  in  diameter,  and  96 

high. 
The  North  Wing  was  commenced  in  1792, 

and  finished  m  1800,  cost    .    .    .    .     .  $480,262 
South  Wing  was  commenced  in  1803,  and 

finiched  in  1808,  cost 308,808 

Centre  Building,  commenced  in  1819,  and 

finished  in  1827,  cost 957,647 

gl,746,717 

On  the  tympanum  if)  a  statue  of  America,  9  feet  in 
length,  attended  by  Justice,  and  visited  by  Hope. 

On  entering  the  south  wing,  several  columns  are 
seen,  where  carvings  of  Indian-corn  stnlks  are  substi- 
tuted for  flutlnjjfs  and  filletings  ;  while  the  capitals  are 
made  of  the  ears  of  corn  half  stripped,  and  disfrosed 
so  as  in  some  degree  to  resemble  the  Corinthian  or 
Composite  order. 

The  Representatives^  Chamber  is  a  fine  semicircular 
apartment,  with  columns  of  a  dark  bluish  siliceous 
pudding  stone,  hard  and  highly  polished.  It  is  lighted 
from  above.  The  gallery  is  open  during  the  debates, 
as  well  as  the  Senate  Chamber^  which  is  a  much  smaller 
apartment. 


THE    PRESIDEKT  S    HOUSE. 


385 


The  Library  of  Congress  is  in  another  part  of  the 
building;  and  the  Great  Hall  contains  the  four  na- 
tional pictures,  painted  for  the  government  by  Col. 
Trumbull :  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  the  Sur- 
renders at  Saratoga  and  Yorktown,  and  Washington 
resigning  his  C  mmission  ;  each  12  feet  by  18.  Here 
are  also  four  relievos  in  marble,  representing  scenes 
connected  with  the  history  of  different  parts  of  the  U. 
States  :  Pocahontas  rescumg:  Capt.  Smith  from  death, 
in  1606,  fby  Capellano,]  the  Landing  of  the  New- 
England  rilgrims  at  Plynh'Uth,  in  1620,  [by  Causici,] 
Wm.  Penn's  Treaty  with  the  Indians,  near  Philadel- 
phia, in  1682,  [by  Gevelot,]  and  a  battle  between 
Boon  and  two  Indians,  in  1773,  [by  Causici.] 

There  can  hardly  be  founl  in  the  world  a  room 
better  constructed  for  tlu-  exhibition  of  pictures  than 
this  noble,  grand  Rotunda,  the  material  of  which  is 
white  marble,  and  the  light  admitted  from  the  summit 
of  the  dome,  which  is  96  feet  in  height. 

The  population  of  Washington  City  is  estimated  at 
19,319.  There  were  erected  148  dwellings  in  1829. 
The  total  number  of  dwellings  is  3050. 

A  fine  view  is  enjoyed  from  the  top  of  the  Capitol. 
You  look  al'ing  the  Pennsylvania  Avenue  westward  to 
the  President's  House,  with  Georgetown  and  the  Po- 
tomac beyond ;  the  General  Post  Ofl&ce,  &c.  on  the 
right ;  the  N.«vy  Yard  towards  the  south-east ;  Green 
leaf's  Point  nearly  south ;  and  south-west  the  bridge 
over  the  Potomac,  with  the  foad  to  Alexandria  and 
Mount  Vernon.  The  canal  begins  south  of  the  Presi- 
dent's House,  and  terininates  at  the  East  Branch. 

The  Presidenfs  House  is  a  large  building  of  white 
marble,  with  Grecian  fronts,  about  a  mile  west  of  the 
Capitol,  and  near  the  public  offices.  It  is  surrounded 
by  a  wall,  but  without  any  other  defence.  The  en- 
trance hall  leads  into  the  drawing-room,  where  the 
company  are  received  at  the  levees.  Two  other 
apartments  are   thrown   open  on   those   occasions; 

KkS 


;586 


oeokoi:town. 


all  handsomely  furnished,  and  freely  accessible,  even 
to  straneers. 

The  ratent  (Mice  is  in  the  same  buildings  with  the 
General  Post  Office,  and  well  worthy  of  a  visit,  on  ac- 
count of  the  numerous  curious  models  which  it  con* 
tains,  relating  to  all  branches  of  the  arts.  447  patents 
were  taken  out  in  1829. 

The  Treasury,  Navy,  War,  and  Land  Offices,  are  all 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  President's  House ;  as  are  the 
residences  of  the  Foreign  Ministers.  The  members 
of  Congress,  as  well  qs  the  numerous  strangers  who 
resort  hither  during  the  sessions,  iind  lodgings  in  the 
hotels  and  boarding-houses  in  ditlerent  parts  of  the 
city,  or  in  Georgetown. 

The  Chesapecike  and  Ohio  Canal  was  commenced  in 
1828,  and  is  proceeding  along  the  Potomac  River, 
()  where  it  will  pass  among  some  very  fine  scenery,  as 
well  as  through  some  rich  tracts  of  country. 

Steamboats.  By  steamboats  there  is  a  constant  and 
convenient  communication  between  Washington,  Alex- 
andria, Mount  Vernon,  Norfolk  (for  $8),  and  Rich- 
mond (for  $12). 

GEORGETOWN 

is  a  considerable  place,  which,  by  its  proximity  to 
Washington,  seems  almost  a  part  of  that  city.  The 
country  around  it  is  variegated,  and  the  situation  of  the 
Catholic  College,  a  little  way  west,  is  picturesque. 
Still  further  m  the  snme  direction,  there  is  a  very 

Rleasant  ride  along  the  bank  of  the  Potomac,  where 
[ason's  Island  is  at  first  seen,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  and  afterward  the  Nunnery  upon  the  elevated 
banks.  On  the  north  side  of  the  road  is  a  Cannon 
Foundry.  It  is  proposed  to  form  here  a  basin  for  the 
canal,  which  it  is  intended  to  extend  to  Alexandria. 


•^""^mmmmmmmmm 


MOUNT   VERNO.\. 


,387 


le 
d 
In 
le 


»"  ALEXANDRIA. 

This  is  a  lai^e  city  and  port,  six  miles  from  Wash- 
ington, and  contains  some  fine  buildings,  both  public 
and  private.  The  road  which  leads  to  it  is  gixKl,  in 
the  pleasant  season,  although  the  country  is  nttle  in- 
habited, and  the  soil  is  impoverished  by  the  cultiva- 
tion of  tobacco.  This  city  is  included  within  the 
boundanr  of  the  District  of  Columbia,  and  is  at  so 
short  a  distaoce  from  Washington  as  lo  be  a  favourite 
resort,  during  the  sessions  of  Congress.  The  river 
is  here  a  mile  wide,  with  a  channel  1000  yards  in 
breadth,  where  the  water  is  30  feet  deep.  It  is  in- 
tended to  ha^e  a  basin  at  the  northern  part  of  this 
town,  at  the  end  of  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal. 

MOUNT  VERNON, 

the  estate  of  the  Washington  family,  is  nine  miles  south 
from  Alexandria,  and  is  remarkable  as  containing  the 
residence  and  the  tomb  of  Gen.  Washington.  The 
road  is  somewhat  intricate,  and  has  but  few  inhabit- 
ants, so  that  the  stranger,  unless  he  goes  in  a  steam- 
boat, will  need  to  make  careful  inquiries.  The  en- 
trance of  the  grounds  is  distinguished  by  a  large  gate, 
with  th6  lodge  and  dwelling  of  the  porter.  A  wind- 
ing path  conducts  to  the  mansion,  which  is  seen  but 
two  or  three  times  from  a  distance.  The  rear  of  the 
house  is  first  seen,  as  it  stands  on  an  eminence,  looking 
down  upon  the  Potomac.  The  buildings  which  pro- 
ject from  each  end,  are  the  offices  and  habitations  of 
the  negroes.  The  house  was  lately  the  residence 
of  Bushrod  Washington,  a  judge  of  the  supreme  court 
of  the  U.  States,  and  nephew  of  Gen.  Washington. 

The  key  of  the  Bastile  of  Paris  is  hung  up  in  the 
hall ;  and  a  miniature  portrait  of  Washington,  from  an 
earthen  pitcher,  is  preserved,  which  is  considered  by 
the  family  the  best  likeness  of  him  ever  made.    A 


38$ 


MOUNT   VERNON. 


beautiful  lawn,  partly  shad«d  by  trees,  extends  froia 
the  front  of  the  mansion  to  the  verp:e  of  the  precipice, 
whirh  overhangs  the  Potomac,  and  aflfords  a  delightful 
view  upon  the  river,  nd  a  tract  of  hilly  country  above 
and  below. 

This  is  the  place  to  which  Washington  retired  after 
he  had  accomplished  the  independence  o(  his  country, 
and  again  when  he  had  presined  at  the  consolidation 
of  the  government ;  voluntarily  resig:ning  the  stations 
he  had  consented  to  accept,  an  the  power  he  had 
exercised  only  tor  the  good  of  his  country.  To  an 
American,  this  place  is  interesting,  in  n  degree  A'hich 
no  language  can  either  heighten  or  describe.  Who- 
ever appreciates  the  ^ alue  of  private  and  social  vir- 
tue, will  rejoice  to  find  it  asH)ciated  with  the  traits  of 
a  person.<ge  so  distinguished  and  influential ;  the  con« 
sistent  politician  will  r*joi(  o  reflect  that  his  princi- 
ples of  natural  freedom  wer*,  not  restricted  to  any  por- 
tion of  the  world,  or  any  part  ot  the  human  race ;  wnile 
any  one,  who  ran  duly  estimate  the  extent  of  the  bless- 
ings he  has  conferred  on  his  courttry,  and  the  influence 
01  his  actions  on  the  happiness  of  the  world,  v\  ill  wish 
that  his  histoiy  may  ever  be  cherished,  as  a  model  of 
sin<  ere  and  disinterested  patriotism. 

Washington's  Tomb  will  be  found  under  the  shade  of  a 
little  grove  ofcedars  a  short  distant  e,s()uthward,t>omthe 
bouse,  and  near  the  brow  of  the  precipitous  shore.  It  is 
small,  unadorned,  and  neglected.  The  great  nfen,  who 
had  rendered  to  his  country  the  most  important  military 
and  civil  services  she  ever  received,  iett  his  mortal 
remains  to  be  deposited  in  this  humble  cemetery; 
and  that  country  has  never  yet  expressed  its  gratitude 
by  erecting  a  monutnent  to  his  memory,  though  to  her 
he  devoted  his  life,  and  to  her  he  has  bequeathed  a 
character,  on  which  no  attempt  has  ever  yet  been 
made  to  discover  a  shadow  or  to  fix  a  slain.  It  has 
been  recently  proposed  to  remove  these  venerated  re- 
mains to  the  (>apitol  at  Washington. 


CITY   4)1'  JJALTIMOKE. 


^B^♦ 


[The  Virginia  Springs. 

These  sprin|(s  are  the  resort  of  numerous  travellers 
every  year,  and  present  the  combined  attractions  of 
heahhtuhiess,  fine  scenery,  company,  &c. 

From  Lynchburgh,  in  Virginia,  tne  first  day's  ride 
brings  the  traveller  in  sight  of  the  noble  Peaks  of 
Otter; — the  next  day  brings  him  to  the  Natural  Bridge, 
and  the  canal  through  the  Blue  Ridge — in  a  few  days 
he  can  visit  the  Sweet  Springs,  the  White  Sulphur, 
Salt  Sulphur  (for  consumptive  patients),  the  Hot 
Springs,  and  the  Warm  Springs  (^the  latter  celebrated 
for  its  bath,  and  the  prospect  which  the  Warm  Spring 
Rock  displays).  On  his  way  to  Staunton,  he  passes 
the  Blowing  cave — on  the  first  day  from  Staunton,  he 
reaches  Weyer's  cave,  one  of  the  most  astonishing 
works  of  subterranean  Nature  in  the  world — going  up 
the  Valley,  he  will  visit  at  Harper's  Ferry  the  cele- 
brated j  unction  of  the  Shenandoah  and  Potomac.  The 
country,  through  which  some  of  this  road  conducts 
him,  is  not  only  remarkable  for  the  beauty  of  the  pic- 
turesque, but  the  fertility  of  its  soil.  The  grass  lands 
are  uncommonly  beautiful.] 


BALTIMORE. 

Barnum's  City  Hotel,  an  elegant  building  near  the 
Washington  Monument,  was  completed  in  1827.  ft 
is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  commodious  public 
bouses  in  the  country.  It  extends  about  100  feet  on 
Market-street,  and  223  feet  on  Hanover-street.  On  the 
former  opens  the  entrance  to  the  private  apartments, 
for  families,  &c. 

7^16  Indian  Queen  Hotel — and  others. 

Baltimore  is  the  third  city,  for  size,  in  the  United 
States,  and  carries  on  an  extensive  commerce.  Various 
prpjects  have  been  made  for  improving  the  coinmuni> 


390 


CITY   OF  BALTIMORE. 


[ ) 


cation  with  the  interior,  which  is  now  limited.  The 
counie  of  the  Susquehannah  has  been  surveyed,  with 
the  intention  of  making  it  more  useful  in  the  trans- 
porcation  of  merchanoise.  The  current  is  now  so 
swift  and  broken  in  many  places,  as  to  render  the  pas- 
sage often  difficult  and  hazardous  ;  and  it  is  honed  that 
great  improvements  may  hereafter  be  effected  by  locks 
•and  canals.  If  this  were  once  perl'ormed,  and  a  rail- 
road made  from  the  river  to  Baltimore,  the  city  would 
doubtless  derive  great  advantage  from  the  internal 
trade. 

The  harbour  of  Baltimore,,  in  the  Patapsco  River, 
has  a  narrow  entrance,  and  is  well  protected  by  high 
ground.  On  the  side  opposite  the  city  is  an  abrupt 
elevation  of  considerable  size,  where  is  a  fort,  and 
whence  a  commandinisr  view  is  enjoyed.  Baltimore  is 
the  greatest  flour-market  in  the  U.  States. 

reWs  Point  is  a  part  of  the  city,  about  a  mile  below, 
where  most  of  the  stores  and  shipping  are  found. 
Many  of  the  streets  of  Baltimore  are  broad,  cross  at 
right  angles,  and  are  ornamensted  with  fine  buildings 
both  public  and  private. 

The  Exchange  is  a  very  sr.»acious  brick  building, 
erected  within  a  few  years.  The  Commercial  Reading 
Rooms  are  the  resort  of  merchants.  The  Athenaeum 
is  a  spacious  structure. 

The  Washington  Monument,  This  is  a  large  column 
of  marble,  placed  in  a  commanding  position,  in 
Howard's  Pailc,  at  the  bead  of  Charles-street,  rising  to 
the  height  of  163  feet.  It  is  14  feet  in  diameter  at 
the  top  and  20  below,  with  a  base  23  feet  in  height, 
and  60  square.  It  is  one  of  the  finest  inonuments  in 
the  United  States,  and  the  only  one  worthy  the  me- 
mory of  the  :^r€at  man  to  whom  it  is  erected.  The 
statue  of  Washini^^ton  was  raised  and  placed  upon  the 
toj)  in  Noven>ber  1829.  It  is  15  feet  high  ;  so  that  the 
height  of  the  top  of  the  statue  from  the  ground  is  176 
feet ;  and  from  the  tide  level  276.  The  situation  is 
I'ery  advantageous ;  being  at  the  intersection  of  four. 


'lilM 


m. 


BATTLE   OF   BALTIMORE. 


oyi 


fatreets,  and  so  elevated  as  to  be  conspicuous  from  eveiy 
direction.  The  area  around  it,  tor  a  circumference  of 
350  feet,  is  to  be  railed  in  with  iron,  and  planted  with 
shrubbery.  The  states  are  to  be  represented  by  de- 
vices around  the  base ;  and  inscriptions  are  to  be 
added  to  record  the  deeds  of  the  Father  of  our 
country. 

The  Battle  Monument  was  recently  erected  in  me- 
mory of  those  who  fell  in  the  defence  of  the  city  in 
September,  1814. 

At  the  corner  of  Front  and  Pitt  streets  is  a  shot 
tower,  234  feet  in  height,  wiiich  is  a  conspicuous 
object  from  a  distance. 

The  Public  Fountain  is  a  fine  spring  of  water  in  the 
western  part  of  the  city,  surrounded  by  a  public 
square,  laid  out  in  walks  and  shaded  with  trees.  It 
is  ornamented  with  a  neat  little  building  of  hewn 
stone,  and  furnished  with  handsome  steps.  To  pre- 
serve order  at  this  place  in  warm  weather,  when  it  is 
usually  much  resorted  to,  it  is  the  custom  to  take  the 
right  m  descending  and  retiring. 

The  environs  of  Baltimore  afford  some  pleasant 
rides ;  and  the  communication  \\\\h  different  places  is 
easy,  by  various  modes  of  conv<  yance.  The  most 
agreeable  way  of  travelling  to  Philadelphia  is  by  the 
steamboat  lines,  which  go  and  arrive  daily,  with  but 
a  short  distance  of  land  carriage.  Steamboats  also  go 
to  Norfolk,  in  Virginia,  but  the  passage  is  uninteresting ; 
and  those  who  wish  to  see  Washington  (38  miles  dis- 
tant] will  go  by  land. 

Tne  Mount  Hope  Institution  is  a  school  for  youth, 
beautifully  situated  in  the  environs.  St.  Mary's  Col- 
lege is  a  Catholic  institution. 

Battle  of  Baltimore. — This  battle  took  place  at 
Lon^  Point  in  September,  1814.  Nearly  40  sail  of 
British  vessels,  comprising  several  ships  of  the  line, 
arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Patapsco,  and  on  the  12th 
landed  between  7000  and  8000  men  on  Long  Point,  at 
the  distance  of  14  miles  from  the  city.    Sixteen  bomb 


i'li 


■t"^.Tw^-:j^ww»>iffsiwPw*a;pp 


;^^^-:iti3^SS^ 


392 


CITY  OP  BALTIMORE. 


vessels  in  the  mean  time  went  up  the  river,  and  an- 
chored about  2i  miles  from  Fort  M*Henry.  Gen. 
Smith  hau  sent  Gen.  Strieker  with  a  part  of  his  bri- 
gade, on  the  road  to  North  Point ;  and  Maj.  Randal, 
with  some  Baltimore  and  Pennsylvania  volunteersj 
went  to  Bear  Creek,  to  co-operate  with  him.  Gen. 
Strieker  took  position  at  the  two  roads  leading  to 
North  Point,  his  right  on  Bear  Creek  and  his  \e(t  on  a 
marsh.  An  advance  met  the  enemy,  and  after  a  skir- 
mish returned,  when  they  advanced  and  joined  in  a 
general  battle.  After  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes,  the 
61st  regt.  gave  way,  and  Gen.  Strieker  retired  to  his 
reserve,  whither  the  enemy  did  not  follow,  and  then 
to  the  left  of  Gen.  Smith,  and  took  post  half  a  mile  in 
ad^anco  of  his  intrenchments.  He  lost  about  150 
killed  and  wounded,  in  this  action,  in  which  the  citi- 
zens cf  Baltimore  distinguished  themselves.  The 
British  loss  was  computed  at  600  or  700 ;  and  among 
them  their  commander,  Gen.  Ross. 

T^-3  bomb  vessels  which  attacked  Fort  M*Henry 
were  unsuccessful,  being  met  with  a  manly  resistance ; 
and  the  troops  re-embarked  and  relinquished  the  enter- 
prise. 

Fort  Erie  is  dismantled  and  partly  blown  up,  in  the 
state  in  which  it  was  left  by  our  troops  in  1814. 

The  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad. 

Onr;  of  the  principal  objects  that  will  attract  the 
attention  of  the  traveller  who  spends  a  little  time  in 
Baltimore,  is  the  great  railroad,  commenced  undei 
such  flattering  prospects,  to  connect  the  city  with  the 
Ohio  river.  Cars  with  sails  sometimes  go  at  the  rate 
of  25  miles  an  hour,  and  can  move  withinTour  points  of 
the  wind.  About  twelve  miles  of  it  were  completed 
in  1829;  and  various  cars  are  in  operation  upon  it, 
some  moved  by  steam,  and  some  by  wind.  The .  aute 
from  Baltimore  to  the  Potomac,  60  miles,  will  have 
but  3  single  summit,  requiring  stationary  power :  and 


iiALTlMUKJ::   A^D   OlfiO   SAILUOAD. 


39a . 


the 


even  the  route  up  the  Potomac  valley,  to  the  coal  * 
mines  in  Alleghany  county,  without  another — in  all,  a 
distance  of  180  miles — a  thing  unprecedented  in  Eu- 
rope. The  work  will  be  executed  to  CUicott's  milb 
early  in  1830.  The  stranger  will  tind  a  passage  of  a 
few  miles  very  novel  and  interesting.  .  h 

The  Carrollton  Viaduct,  which  crosses  Gwynn's 
Falls,  about  a  mile  from  the  r'^yv4U  a  fnte  specimen  of 
mason  work,  and  is  said  to  be  unequalled  in  the 
United  States,  for  strength,  size,  and  beauty.  It  is 
312  feet  long,  63  feet  9  inches  high,  and  26  feet  6 
inches  wide  on  the  travelled  part.  The  great  granite 
arch  of  80  feet  span,  springs  from  abutments  20  feet 
in  thickness,  and  14  feet  above  the  water.  The  key 
of  the  arch  is  47  feet  above  the  water.  The  arcn 
stones  are  all  of  dressed  granite  ;  the  number  of  layers 
of  stone  is  87,  many  of  the  stones  weighing  two  tons ; 
and  the  parapets  are  coped  with  large  slabs  of 
granite. 

The  Jackson  Bridge  is  a  single  arch,  109  feet  lon^, 
of  entirely  novel  structure,  the  mvention  of  Col.  Long, 
of  the  Company's  board  of  engineers. 

The  Deep  Cut  through  a  hi^h  and  broad  ridge  of 
Ian*!,  is  about  three-tburths  oi  a  mile  in  length,  its 
greatest  depth  70  feet,  and  its  width,  at  the  summit  of' 
the  ridge,  184  feet.  Quantities  of  carbonizer!  wood 
were  found  60  feet  beKw  the  natural  surface,  and  the 
stump  of  a  tree  with  its  roots  at  40  feet.  Tiie  entire 
excavation  is  263,848  cubic  yards. 

The  Great  Embankment  at  Gadsby's  Bun  five  miles 
from  Baltimore,  is  nt^arly  a  mile  in  length,  its  greatest 
elevation  56  feet,  and  its  greatest  width  191  feet.  At 
the  top  the  usual  width  of  26  tieet  is  preserved  for  a 
double  set  of  rails. 

Gadsbyh  Bun  Viaduct  affords  a  passage  to  the 
waters  of  the  run  through  the  embankment.  The  arch, 
composed  of  dressed  granite  blocks,  is  of  the  extra- 
ordinary width  of  120  feet  from  opening  to  opening. 

The  Patterson  Viaduct  is  an  immense  structure  of 

I;! 


t| 


r... 


Hi 

It 


"^nfffjipqiTipjiiiiil-iiiiniaii.  i 


0^4 


CITY    Olf'   BALTIMOiii:. 


s^ranite^  by  which  the  road  is  carried  to  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  Petapsco.  It  is  built  of  granite  blocks, 
from  one  to  seven  tons  in  weight,  and  its  entire  length 
is  375  feet.  It  has  four  beautitui  arches,  the  two  centre 
ones  each  a  span  of  55  feet,  with  extensive  wings  and 
water-walls,  abutments,  &c.  The  height  from  the 
water  to  the  crown  of  the  arches  is  30  feet.  The 
corner  stone  of  this  Structure  was  laid  on  the  6th  of 
May  last,  and  on  the  4th  of  December  it  was  crossed 
on  horseback  by  Wm.  Patterson,  Esq.  for  whom  the 
honour  had  been  reserved,  and  whose  name  it  bears. 
It  embraces  nearly  10,000  perches  of  masonry. 

Besides  these  are  the  embankment  at  Stilihouse  Run, 
two  granite  viaducts,  the  rock  side  cutting  at  Buzzard's 
Rock,  &c.  &c. 

This  is  truly  a  great  work ;  worthy  of  the  age,  and 
highly  creditable  to  the  enterprise  and  public  spirit  of 
the  company ;  and  from  which  the  citizens  of  Bahi- 
more  may  very  reasonably  expect  extensive  and  du- 
rable advantages. 

,  In  passing  from  the  valley  of  Gwynn's  falls  to  the 
Patapsco,  the  excavations  and  embankments  have 
unavoidably  been  very  great ;  the  deepest  cut  is  79 
feet,  and  the  highest  embankment  is  57  feet:  the 
quantity  of  excavation  between  the  city  of  Baltimore 
and  the  valley  of  the  Patapsco,  in  a  distance  of  seven 
miles,  is  656,688  cubic  yards.  The  embankments 
alon^  the  same  distance  are  i28,629  cubic  yards, 
makmg  together  1,284,187  cubic  yards.  The  masonry 
on  the  section  within  the  city,  and  on  the  first  and 
second  divisions  of  the  road,  is  upwards  of  56,000 
perches  of  stone  work,  and  is  executed  in  a  very 
superior  style  of  workmanship. 

Along  the  valley  of  the  Patapsco  it  has,  in  many 
places,  been  found  necessary  to  conduct  the  road 
through  extensive  beds  of  hard  granite  or  limestone, 
and  at  the  Buzzard  Rock  the  road  has  been  carried 
through  a  solid  mass  of  rock  rising  58  lieet  above  it<^ 
surface. 


HALTIMOKE  AIND  VOKK  IIAVKM  RAILROAD. 


There  were  four  routes  orig:inally  proposed  from 
Baltimore  to  the  valley  of  the  Potomac.  The  aggjre- 
gate  height  of  the  adopted  one  is  only  885  feet — much^ 
smaller  than  the  others.  The  road  to  the  valley  of 
the  Potomac,  it  is  expected,  will  be  completed  bv  the 
end  of  1830.  It  will  meet  it  at  the  Poini  of  nocks. 
A  portion  of  50  miles  may  after  that  period  be  com- 
pleted every  year.  The  mcrease  of  business  in  Balti- 
more will  therefore  be  rapid,  and  a  large  addition  will 
be  made  every  year  to  the  attractions  of  travellers  in 
that  direction. 

The  latest  improvements  have  been  obtained  from 
England,  in  relation  to  the  mode,  materials,  &Cm  for 
constructing  railroads,  by  Mr.  Jonathan  Knight,  Civil 
Engineer,  and  Captain  Wm.  Gibbs  M*Neill  of  the  U. 
S.  Topographical  Engineers,  with  Lieut.  Geoige  W. 
Whistler  of  the  United  States'  army,  who  were  sent 
thither  in  November,  1388,  and  minutely  examined 
every  railroad  of  note  or  consequence  in  the  United 
Kingdom. 

In  the  first  part,  the  inclination  of  the  road  will  be 
at  the  rate  of  16,086  feet  per  mile,  or  9.8  minutes  of  a 
degree,  ascending  from  Baltimore  towards  Cumberland. 
Between  Cumberland  and  the  Ohio  river,  the  probable 
transportation  to  that  stream  is  estimated  at  one-half 
that  of  the  transportation  from  it  eastward;  and  the 
general  inclination  of  the  road  at  8  feet  and  12  hun- 
dredths per  mile,  or  5.29  minutes  of  a  degree,  ascend- 
ing towards  the  Ohio. 

A  Railroad  from  Baltimore  to  1  ?•'  rlaven,  on  the 
Susquehannah,  has  been  commenced  bv  the  Legislature 
of  Maryland,  The  distance  is  60  miles ;  and  the  esti 
inate  for  the  railway  is  $7,600  per  mile.  The  addi- 
tional expenses  for  making  the  bed,  the  sinuosities,  &c. 
would  be  considerable :  but  it  is  believed  that 
8800,000  would  be  sufficient  for  the  whole  work. 

The  greatest  elevation  between  Baltimore  and 
Conewago  is  35  miles  from  the  former ;  and  being  be- 
tween 900  and  1000  fppt  above  tide  water,  ffives  an 


3% 


WILMINGTON. 


'average  rise  of  about  27  feet  to  a  mile ;  and  the  de- 
scent thence  to  Conewago  corresponds.  It  has  been 
.  proposed  to  place  12  locomotive  steam  engines  along 
this  route  5  miles  apart. 

The  Susquehannah,  above  York  Haven,  has  a  fall 
of  about  10  lent  in  a  mile,  and  the  banks  are  very  favour- 
able to  a  railway.  The  Philadelphia  and  Susquehan- 
iiah  Railroad  will  soon  be  connected  with  this.  A 
railway  to  the  Susquehannah  which  could  transport  to 
Baltimore  for  three  cents  a  ton  per  mile,  it  is  said, 
would  lake  all  the  business  of  the  river. 

It  was  supposed  that  nearly  5^  millions  worth  of 
property  went  down  this  river  in  1826,  in  spite  of  the 
difficulties  and  dangers  of  the  navigation.  It  is  not 
to  be  wondered  at  that  the  inhabitants  of  Philadelphia 
>  and  Baltimore  should  feel  great  solicitude  to  secure 
the  trade.  The  sloop  canal  connecting  ibis  river  with 
the  Delaware  is  intended  for  fhe  benefit  of  the  former, 
as  is  the  Union  canal  at  Middletown,  leading  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Pennsylvania  canal  to  the  Schuylkill 
river.  The  Susquehannah  has  been  greatly  improved 
by  various  works  in  diflferent  parts  of  its  course,  (which 
are  nearly  completed,)  and  will  permit  the  passage 
of  boats  of  fifty  or  sixty  tons  to  Columbia.  The  state 
of  Delaware  has  rendered  the  navigation  below 
Columbia  comparatively  convenient,  so  that  wheat  has 
been  for  six  or  seven  years,  on  m  average,  within  12^ 
or  15  cents  a  bushel  of  the  price  in  Baltimore.  For- 
merly it  was  50  cents.  In  1827,  ^100,000  was  sup- 
posed sufficient  to  make  a  safe  navigation  fivm  the 
Swatara  to  Port  Deposit.  In  1828,  howmcr,  the  Le- 
gislature of  Pennsylvania  forbade  further  improvements 
m  that  state.  In  1827, 200,000  busliels  of  wheat  went 
to  Baltimore  by  this  route. 

The  bridge  over  the  Gunpowder  Creek,  on  the 
road,  is  remarkable  as  a  fine  structure,  as  the  steep 
and  elevated  banks  of  that  dark  stream  are  for  theii 
wild  and  romantic  appearance.  The  span  of  the  arch 
is  125  feet. 

Wilmins^ton^  Del      The  Wafer  Works  :\vft  supplio!^ 


liOLTE    TO   OIHU. 


39' 


lioin  the  Brandywine,  by  a  steam  engine  and  double 
forcing  pump,  on  the  principle  of  that  at  Fairmount, 
Philadelphia.  The  water-wheel  is  an  overshot,  14 
feet  6  inches  in  diameter ;  and  the  water  that  turns  it 
is  pumped  up.  The  ascent  from  the  river  to  the  upper 
basin  is  99  feet ;  and  both  the  basins  together,  hold  a 
million  of  s^ailons. 

On  the  Brandywine  river,  within  four  miles,  there 
are  no  less  than  42  water-wheels  employed  in  the 
manufacture  of  gunpowder,  cotton  and  woollen  ^oods, 
flour,  paper,  in  saw-mills,  and  in  the  preparation  of 
barley,  and  other  matters,  and  with  ample  room  and 
water  power,  it  is  said,  remaining,  for  at  least  fifty 
more.  The  Messrs.  Duponts  employ  eighteen  wheels, 
and  manufacture  3000  pounds  of  gunpowder  daily. 

The  Brandywine  Chalybeate  luring  (Stanley's 
Hotel)  is  five  miles  west  oT  the  village,  on  elevated 
g?ouna,  and  offers  some  attractions. 

The  old  Swedish  church,  built  in  1698,  by  the  early 
inhabitants  of  this  place,  is  still  to  be  seen,  surrounded 
by  larire  sycamores.  It  stands  near  the  Christiana 
Creek,  nearly  opposite  the  site  of  the  fir-t  place  of 
worship  erected  W^re  by  the  Swedes.  That  spot  is 
now  marked  only  by  a  few  tomb-stones.  This  town 
was  settled  by  the  companions  of  William  Useling, 
)n  1631. 


OHIO. 

Although  so  far  removed  from  the  territory  hereto- 
fore regarded  as  within  the  limits  of  the  Northern 
'traveller,  this  new  and  flourishing  state  has  recently 
taken  so  high  a  rank  in  importance,  enterprise,  and 
numbers,  that  it  will  be  visited  by  travellers  of  intelli- 
gence, disposed  to  witness  the  aspect  of  a  country 
which  has  been  the  theatre  of  a  most  rapid  improve- 
ment, and  has  already  risen  to  the  rank  of  the  fourth 
state  in  the  Union,  in  point  of  population.  To  such,  a 
few  brief  remarks  will  not  be  entirely  superfluous. 

1.12 


398 


KOUTE  TO  OHIO. 


The  following  may  be  recommended  as  a  general 
tour. 

First  proceed  to  Wheeling ;  down  the  Ohio  river  to 
Cincinnati ;  across  the  country  to  Sandusky  Bay  by 
the  western  route  in  g(K)d  stage  coaches ;  thence  by 
steamboat  to  Detroit,  and,  if  desired,  onward  to  the 
western  lakes.  Keturnin^,  by  steam,  land  at  Cleave- 
]and,  and  make  an  excursion,  on  the  canal  (which, 
although  about  350  miles  lon&c,  is  not  very  interesting). 
Then  take  steamboat  to  Buffalo,  whence  the  traveller 
may  take  what  route  he  prefers. 

The  mail,  in  summer,  goes  from  New-York  to  Ohio 
by  Philadelphia,  in  ten  days,  and  by  Buffalo  and  Lake 
£rie  in  Bve  and  a  half. 

Only  a  few  of  the  principal  places  on  the  tour  will 
be  noticed.  In  1828,  a  steamboat  of  110  tons  went  up 
the  river  to  Oil  Creek,  within  a  few  miles  of  Warren. 
,  Pittsburgh* — The  Pennsylvania  canal,  when  com- 
pleted, wiN  connect  this  town  with  Philadelphia,  by  a 
navigable  communication.  The  works  connecting  the 
present  canal  with  the  river,  the  aqueduct  across  the 
river,  &c.,  will  be  worthy  of  particular  attention. 
This  is  more  like  a  manufacturing  town  in  England, 
than  any  other  in  the  United  States.  It  would  surpass 
our  limits  to  enumerate  all  the  manufactories  here. 
We  can  only  remark  that  the  greatest  iron  works  in 
the  western  country  are  the  Juniata  Works  in  Pitts- 
burgh. They  give  employment  to  55  persons,  and 
make  26,000  weight  of  nails  in  a  day,  consuming  425 
bushels  of  coal. 

In  1829,  there  were  consumed  in  the  different  Foun- 
dries, Rolling  Mills,  and  Steam  Gngme  Factories,  in 
and  about  Pittsburgh,  six  thousand  tons  of  blooms^  and 
five  thousand  tons  of  pig  mstal.  These  articles  are 
brought  principally  down  the  Monongahela  and  Alle- 
ghany rivers. 

There  are  nine  Foundries,  which  use  about  3,500 
tons  of  pig  metal,  and  employ  about  225  hands. 

The  Rolling  Mills  are  eight  in  number,  and  are  now 


"WWBI 


ZANESVILLE. 


a99 


chiefly  employed  in  rolling  Juniata  blooms,  of  which 
they  use  about  6000  tons.  They  also  consume  about 
1,500  tons  of  p\g  metal,  and  employ  about  320  hands. 

There  are  nine  Nail  Factories,  which  manufacture 
daily  about  18  tons  of  nails,  and  employ  about  150 
hands. 

There  are  also  seven  Steam  Engine  Factories,  in 
•which  are  employed  about  210  hands.  As  yet  but 
three  steam  engines  have  been  sent  east  of  the  moun- 
tains, four  or  nve  to  the  northern  lakes,  and  one  to 
Mexico.  Within  two  or  three  years  past,  the  casting 
of  sugar  kettles,  sugar  mills,  and  small  steam  engines 
to  drive  them,  for  the  planters  of  Louisiana,  has  be- 
come a  very  important  branch  of  manufacturing  busi- 
ness, and  is  increasing. 

In  addition  to  the  metal  and  blooms  above  mentioned, 
a  large  quantity  of  bar  iron  is  brought  to  Pittsburgh 
from  Juniata. 

The  water  was  broui>ht  across  the  aqueduct  in 
Nov,  1829 ;  and  the  preparations  were  almost  com- 
pleted to  connect  the  canal  with  the  river  and  steam- 
boat navigation. 

There  is  a  turnpike  to  Erie,  distance  125  miles,  with 
a  daily  line  of  stae:e  coaches. 

Zanesville  will  probably  become  great  as  a  manu- 
facturing town ;  being  situated  in  a  region  well  sup- 
plied with  iron  and  coal  mines,  and  streams  of  water. 

The  appearance  of  the  country  along  the  Ohio  at 
Wheeling  is  remarkably  beautiful ;  and  the  country 
has  thence  derived  the  name  of  Belmont.  The  land 
is  undulating,  and  rises  gradually  foi  a  distance  back, 
affording  many  fine  retrospects  to  a  traveller  in  that 
direction,  over  a  well  cultivated  region.  Considerable 
quantities  of  tobacco  are  now  raised  here,  which  will 
be  increased  when  the  means  of  transportation  are 
improved  by  the  railroad.  It  is  said  that  four  dollars 
per  cwt.  will  pay  the  cultivator. 

The  falls  of  the  Ohio  were  expected  to  be  passable 
by  the  canal  making  on  the  Kentucky  side^  m  1830. 


1 

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1  'i 

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4UU 


KOUTE   TO   OHIO. 


The  works  arc  extensive  and  interesting ;   and  the 
facilities  they  must  afford,  highly  important. 

Ohio  Cana/.— According  to  the  report  of  the  Com- 
missioners of  this  canal,  made  in  January  1830,  the 
northern  division  of  the  Ohio  canal,  extending  from 
Lake  Erie  to  the  Licking  summit,  190  miles,  was 
nearly  completed,  and  the  whole  line  from  Cleave- 
land  to  Newark,  180  miles,  was  expected  to  be  opened 
for  navigation  early  in  the  spring.  The  sum  paid  for 
constructing  that  part  of  the  canal  up  to  the  first  of 
Dec.  last,  was  $1, 916,324.  The  estimated  sum  re- 
quired to  complete  it  was  21,204  dolls  ,  exclusive  of 
the  navigable  feeders.  Cost  of  the  Tuscarawas  and 
Walhonding  navigable  feedere  was  48,721  dollars. — 
Making  the  whole  cost  of  that  division  of  the  cnnal, 
including  feeders  and  reservoirs,  1,986,271  dollars. 
Estimated  cost  of  the  Muskingum  Side  Cut,  or  Branch 
Cut,  36,400  dollars. 

The  whole  line  of  canal  between  the  Licking  sum- 
mit and  the  Ohio  river,  119  miles,  and  the  Columbus 
feeder,  11  miles,  was  under  contract  to  be  completed, 
at  different  periods,  f»efore  the  first  of  June,  1831. 
On  a  part  ot  it  considerable  work  had  been  done. 
The  amount  of  work  done  on  that  division  was 
415,769  dollars.  The  total  cost  of  that  division  was 
estimated  at  1,501,213  dollars.  Aggregate  amount  of 
money  paid  for  constructing  the  Ohio  canal,  up  to 
Dec.  1,  1829,  2,336,367  dollars— and  the  estimated 
sum  required  to  complete  it  was  1,248,000  dollars — 
making  the  total  cost  of  the  Ohio  canal,  3,584,367  dol- 
lars, exclusive  of  the  expenses  of  engineering  and 
.superintending  the  construction. 

[The  Legislature  of  Kentucky  have  incorporated  a 
company  for  the  purpose  of  constructing  a  railroad 
from  Lexington  to  some  point  (not  designated)  on  the 
Ohio ;  the  amount  of  stock,  1,000,000,  with  the  privi- 
lege of  increasing  it,  at  the  pleasure  of  the  stocknold- 
«rs,  to  2,000,000.  The  price  of  transportation  is  to  be 
regulated  by  the  Legislature.    The  work  is  to  be  com- 


STATISTICS    UF    (JlllO. 


■401 


menced  within  three,  and  completed  within  ten  years 
thereafter.] 

[There  are  now  enumerated  three  liundred  and 
twenty-three  steamboats  upon  the  Mississippi  and 
Ohio  rivers,  whose  aggregate  burden  is  estimated  at 
56,000  tons — the  largest  boat  measuring  500,  and  the 
most  common  size  being  250  tons.  A  boat  now  reaches 
Cincinnati,  ordinarily,  in  from  ten  to  twelve  days  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi,  while  eight  or  nine  days 
suffice  to  run  from  Louisville  to  Pittsburgh  and  back.] 

In  1827  the  Portage  summit  was  opened  to  naviga- 
tion as  far  as  Cleaveland.  This  summit  is  the  highest 
point  on  the  canal,  being  nearly  400  feet  above  it.  The 
elevation  is  surmounted  by  42  locks.  It  is  38  miles 
from  the  lake. 

The  whole  Miami  canal  was  opened  early  in  the 
year  1828,  with  flattering  prospects  of  success  and 
public  advantage.  It  extends  67  miles  from  Cincin- 
nati to  near  Dayton. 

Cincinnati. — This  place  is  remarkable  for  the  ra- 
pidity of  its  growth.  In  1 800  it  contained  a  little  above 
2000 ;  in  1810,  4000 ;  in  1826  above  16,000 ;  and  in 
1829  above  25,000.  There  are  16  places  of  public 
worship;  a  Commercial  Hospital,  Lunatic  Asylum, 
Medical  College,  and  the  Western  Museum.  There 
are  nine  printing  offices,  which  publish  nine  newspapers. 
Here  is  published  the  "  Western  Quarterly  Review." 
Heretofore  the  business  has  been  done  prinripaliy  with 
New-Orleans:  but  the  length  and  diffi«  ullies  of  the 
voyaife,  and  the  exposure  to  disease  operate  as  great 
objections  to  it. 

Statistics  of  Ofiio  for  1829.— \cres  of  land,  15,878,171, 
valued  at  $41,193,000,  including:  buildings.  Value 
of  town  lots. 


:luding 


ngs, 


178,319,  valued  at  $7,012,760.  Cattle,  719,596,  va- 
lued at  $5,756,768.  Merchants'  capital,  valued  at 
$3,940,156.  State  tax,  $193,609.  County  tax,  $173,- 
993.  Road  tax,  $71,950.  'TVNvMship  t^\,  $5'i,096c 
School  tax.  $47,899 


in 


40e 


i'lTy  OP  PIIILADELnil  A. 


THE  CITY  OF  PHILADELPHIA. 

Hotels. — United  Slates  Hotel,  in  Chesnut-street,  op- 
posite the  United  States  Bank.  National  Hotel,  op- 
posite the  post  office.  Mansion  House,  in  South  3d 
street,  between  Walnut  and  Spruce.  Judd's,  2d,  be- 
tween Market  and  Chesnut. 

Boarding  Howes. — Mrs.  Frazier's,  in  Spruce-street ; 
Mrs.  Swords,  Walnut ;  Mrs.  Allen,  6th,  near  the  State 
House. 

Philadelphia  is  the  second  city,  for  size,  in  the 
United  States ;  and  is  remarkable  for  the  regularity  of 
its  streets,  which,  almost  without  exception,  run  at 
right  angles,  and  are  of  an  equal  and  convenient 
breadth.  Some  of  the  public  buildings  are  worthy  of 
particular  notice,  as  among  the  finest  and  most  correct 
specimens  of  architecture  in  the  countiy. 

It  will  be  convenient  to  the  stranger  to  recollect 
that  the  streets  running  north  and  south  are  named 
First  J  Second,  Third,  &c.,  beginning  on  both  sides  of 
the  city,  on  the  banks  of  the  Delaware  and  Schuylkill, 
until  they  meet  at  the  square  near  the  centre.  The 
streets  which  run  east  and  west,  are  generally  nained 
after  trees  ;  the  lanes  and  alleys,  after  shrubs,  &c. 

The  Market. — This  consists  of  a  succession  of  build- 
ings in  the  middle  of  Market-street,  extending  from 
the  fish  market  on  the  river's  bank  to  Eighth-street, 
affording  room  for  a  convenient  display  of  the  nume- 
rous articles  dail}  brought  in  for  the  supply  of  the 
city. 

Post  Office,  Chesnut-street,  between  Third  and 
Fourth. 

The  Bank  of  the  United  States,  in  Chesnut-street, 
between  Fourth  and  Fifth.  This  is  the  finest  specimen 
of  pure  Grecian  taste  in  the  United  States.  It  is  built 
of  white  marble  in  the  form  of  a  temple,  with  two 
fronts,  each  ornamented  with  eight  fine  Doric  columns^ 


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l/NlVERSlrr. 


4UJ 


ot  the  ancient  proportions  without  bases.  Besides  the 
banking  room,  which  is  lari^e,  occupying  the  centre* 
and  lighted  through  a  glass  dome,  there  are  many 
other  apartments,  particularly  those  devoted  to  the 
printmg  of  the  notes,  and  that  below,  which  contains 
the  furnace  for  warming  it  with  Lehigh  coal  in  the 
winter. 

Gerard's  Bank^  in  Third,  facing  Dock-street.  This 
building  is  also  of  marble,  and  presents  a  beautiful 
row  of  six  Corinthian  columns. 

The  Bank  of  Pennsylvania^  opposite,  has  two  fronts, 
on  Second  and  Dock-streets,  each  with  six  Ionic  co- 
lumns. This  is  another  chaste  and  beautiful  building 
of  white  marble. 

The  State  House,  in  Chesnut-street,  between  Fifth 
and  Sixth-streets,  is  a  large  brick  building,  with  court 
rooms,  &c.  at  either  end.  In  the  front  room,  east  of 
the  main  entrance,  the  old  Continental  Congress  held 
their  sessions ;  and  there  the  Declaration  of  Independ- 
ence w^s  signed,  July  4th,  1776. 

The  Athen(JE.um  is  adjoining,  open  all  day  to  stran- 
gers. 

The  Philosophical  Sonety^s  Library  and  Cabinet. 

Independence  Square  \  ftne  shaded  piece  of  ground, 
behind  tfie  State  House.  Opposite  in  Walnut-street, 
is  the  State  Prison,  built  ot  dark  stone,  and  con- 
nected with  a  yard  enclosed  by  high  walls. 

City  Library,  Fifth  street,  open  to  the  public  from 
2,  P.  M.  See  Franklin's  apparatus,  and  Cromweirs 
clock. 

The  University  contains  a  medical  department,  and 
the  Wistar  Museum,  with  a  library,  garden,  &c.  This 
Institution  is  considered  the  most  richly  endowed 
among  all  those  in  United  States.  It  has  recently  un- 
dergone a  n^e;  ,v  rrganization.  A  new  medical  build- 
ing nas  been  -sd'  «a,  and  the  professors  are  numerous 
as  well  as  resj   c  .ble.   The  annual  income  is  $15,000. 

Here  is  a  High  School,  subservient  to  the  Franklin 
Institute.    The  general  system  of  public  instruction 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  873-4503 


^   «... 


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404 


CITY   OF   PHILADELPHIA. 


is  extensive  and  of  marked  benefit.  Infant  Schools 
are  nunaerous,  and  the  system  has  been  ingrafted  on 
some  of  the  numerous  Sunday  Schools. 

The  Arcade,  in  Chesnut-street,  is  a  fine  building  of 
stone,  with  two  arched  passages  leading  to  Lafayette- 
streett;  "tt  is  occupied  ior  shops,  and  has  galleries  in 
the  upper  story.  The  Philadelphia  Museum  of  Mr. 
Peale  is  in  the  northern  part.  It  contains  a  large  col- 
lection of  curiosities  of  various  descriptions.  ^  'le 
birds  are  very  numerous,  but  not  well  preserved.  \  e 
huge  skeleton  of  a  man:moth  will  attract  particular 
attention,  beinff  represented  entire ;  for  the  parts 
which  were  dencient  on  one  side,  have  been  supplied 
by  imitations  of  those  on  the  other. 

^r.^uWy^s  Exhibition  oiPavntings  is  opposite  the 
State  House,  and  contains  fine  pictures. 
1 7  Washington  Square  is  on  the  other  side  of  Sixth-street, 
with  a  handsome  church  on  the  southern  side,  with  a 
range  of  wooden  columns. 

The  Pennsylvania  Hospital  is  a  large  and  admirable 
institution,  in  the  next  street,  where  great  numbers  of 
sick  are  attended.  Twenty-five  cents  will  secure  ad- 
mission to  the  building  and  gardens,  and  alsa  to  the 
top. 

West^s  Celebrated  Picture  of  Christ  Healing  the  Sick, 
is  exhibited  in  a  neat  little  building  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  street.  It  represents  the  Saviour  surrounded 
by  a  crowd  of  persons  in  the  temple,  among  whom 
are  observed  many  afflicted  with  various  diseases, 
pressing  forward  to  be  healed.  In  front  is  a  paralytic 
woman  borne  by  two  men,  whose  healthy  countenances 
form  a  striking  contrast  with  her  cadaverous  aspect ; 
and  the  painter  has  given  a  reddish  tint  to  her  feet, 
which  seem  already  to  have  felt  the  miraculous  influ- 
ence. A  blind  man  appears  behind,  led  by  his. sons ; 
and  on  the  left-hand  is  an  infant  supported  by  its  mo- 
ther, with  a  poor  blind  girl  and  other  figures.  Near 
the  centre  is  a  lunatic  boy,  rather  too  shocking  a  sub- 
ject for  such  a  picture :  and  a  number  of  Jewish  Rab- 


C'lTV:    Ot    PlilLAJiELJ'mA. 


405 


bis  are  collecled,  with  countenances  txpressive  of  vio- 
lent passions. 

The  apartment  is  adnr»irably  calculated  for  the  dis- 
play of  the  picture,  which  is  universally  considered 
one  of  the  finest  and  most  interesting  in  the  United 
States. 

The  Theatre^  in  Chesnut-street,  between  Sixth  and 
Seventh-streets,  has  a  marble  front,  with  the  entrance 
under  a  portico,  ornamented  with  statues  of  Comedy 
and  Tr^p^cdy. 

The  Masonic  Hall  is  a  little  beyond,  and  somewhat 
in  the  Gothic  style,  with  a  small  court  yard  in  front. 

The  Academy  of  Arts,  Chesnut-street,  between 
Tenth  and  Eleventh,  contains  a  collection  of  statues, 
(among  these  are  Canova's  Three  Graces,)  busts,  &c.  in 
marble  and  plaster,  ranged  in  an  apartment  lighted 
from  the  top ;  and  beyond  a  gallery  of  pictures  with 
many  specimens  of  the  wcrks  of  American  artists, 
particularly  of  Alston,  among  which  is  conspicuous 
that  of  the  dead  body  restored  to  life  by  the  bones  of 
the  prophet  Elisha. 

The  Jefferson  Medical  College  U  in  Tenth-street,  be- 
tween Chesnut  and  Walnut. 

In  Arch-street  is  a  Theatre. 

The  Orphans''  and  the  IVidorvs^  Asylums  are  in  the 
western  part  of  the  citv. 

Academy  of  Natural  Sciences.  Penn^s  house,  Letiiia 
court.     United  States'*  Mint,^  &ic.  &c. 

Szvaim^s  Bath  is  in  Seventh-street. 


''  M'iio  voport  of  tlio  TMivrtor  of  tlio  Mint,  in  JS-27,  statra  iJiat  ifi^ 
(■(iinaw  etlfCtt'd  wiiliiii  that  year  arnountcil  to  $J,024,3-li2  a*-',  consisting 
oi  ;i,<j'.)7,S^J5  i>iL'ce.s  of  coin,  vi/,. 

<  >:'(;()!(!,  '-27,7 in  pieces;  making         .«!rJl,r.r,5  00 

Jiiilvfr,  0,7i'.','l(M>  dc  li,H(»9,J>00  OU 

Cc.piH!!,  'l.TolyTiii  do.  -'2:J,577  '.Vi 


(),(l97,84.-i 


$3,024,342  3i 


'i'h'^  <;<tina«'o  <>fl('ct»'(l  at  the  Mint  (lurinj;  18-2'.»,  amounts  to  .^^,300,87.";, 
<oii;pri.sing  §i-J9ri,7]7  in  gold  coins,  $1,5)94,373  in  siivir,  and  {J1<»,5H()  in 
<  uitpt'i'.    'J'lie  nurnl»('r  ol"  jiieces  of  all  kinds  is  stated  tti  be  ^7,074, 501. 

'  »;■  tin' j^D^d  liullion  (h'i;rHit(.'(l  jit  the  ^'iiit  u  illiiu  'Ju'  1  i^t  M-ar.  tin; 

!S1  in 


406 


ClfY  OF   ^HILADEI^rHIA. 


There  are  two  Medical  Institutions  in  this  city,  wher^ 
lectures  are  delivered  to  great  numbers  of  students. 

The  De(if  and  Dumb  Asylum  is  a  valuable  institu- 
tion ;  as  is  the  Friends^  Alms  House  in  Waliiut-street, 
between  Third  and  Fourth,  where  poor  families  are 
placed  in  separate  houses,  among  small  gatdens,  and 
furnished  with  employment. 

Mr.  BedelFs  (episcopal)  church  in  Eijghth-street,  and 
Mr.  Montgomery  s,  in  Tenth,  are  considered  the  finest 
in  the  city.  The  latter  is  in  a  kind  of  Gothic  style. 
Near  the  Schuylkill  is  a  manufactory  of  Porcelain. 

The  banks  of  the  Schuylkill*  are  well  formed  for  the 
display  of  the  large  public  edifices  which  will  be  per- 
ceived ranged  along  their  eminences  for  two  or  three 
miles,  to  the  honour  of  Philadelphia  and  the  ornament 
of  its  environs. 

A  canal  was  projected  some  years  ago  between  the 
two  rivers,  and  was  begun,  near  Fairmount.  The  pro- 
ject has  recently  been  started  aeain ;  and  it  has  been 
proposed  to  make  a  canal  40  ieet  wide,  5  feet  deepf 
and  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length.  The  expense  is  esti- 
mated at  198,000  dollars. 

Mr,  PratVs  Garden  is  about  3  miles  north-west  from 
the  centre  of  the  city,  and  worthy  of  a  visit.  It  is  a 
private  garden,  but  tickets  of  admission  maybe  easily 
obtained  through  respectable  inhabitants.  The  situa^ 
tion  is  agreeable  and  commanding,  on  a  little  cape  or 

proportion  received  from  Mexico,  South  America,  and  tlie  West  Indie^i, 
may  be  stated  at  76,000  dollars ;  that  of  North  Carolina  at  2i,00Q  dol- 
lars ;  and  that  from  Africa  15,000  dollars ;  leaving  about  20,000  derived 
from  sources  not  ascertained.  The  whole  amount  received  from  North 
Carolina,  to  the  present  period,  is  nearly  110,000.  This  gold  has  gene- 
rally been  found  to  exceed  in  fineness  the  standard  of  our  gold  coins. 

The  whole  coinage  executed  since  the  establishment  of  the  Mint 
amounts  to  30,465,444  dollars,  14^  cents,  consisting  of  103,081,178  pieces 
of  coin,  viz. 

Of  Gold,  1,538,161  pieces ;  making         $8,255,667  50 

Silver,        47,389,086  do.  21,695,899  90 

Copper,      54,154,931  do.  513,876  74^  ^ 

103,081,178  30,465,444  14i 

*  The  length  of  tha  permanent  bridge  from  abutment  to  abuunent  i^ 
554  feel  six  inches— that  of  the  upper  ferry  353  feet  4  inches. 


TENITENTiABT. 


407 


promontory  on  tb6  Schuylkill ;  and  from  the  gravelled 
walks  the  visiter  enjoys  a  view  down  the  river,  of  the 
basin,  the  dam,  the  water  works,  below  which  are  the 
State  Prison,  House  of  Refuge,  Hospital,  the  two 
bridges,  -and  on  the  opposite  side  a  handsome  seat 
called  "  Woodlands."  These  grounds  were  purchased, 
in  1828,  for  the  site  of  a  Poor  House,  on  the  plan  ex- 
tensively  adopted  in  New-England. 

The  Schuylkill  Water  Works.  Pipes  more  than  32} 
miles ;  expense  of  raising,  $4^  per  day.  There  is  a 
large  stone  building  of  chaste  architecture,  containing  5 
large  water  wheels,  which  are  capable  of  raising  7 
minions  of  gallons  in  24  hours.  They  are  turned  by 
a  current  from  the  dam  above.  The  reservoirs  are  on 
the  hill  above,  which  is  higher  than  any  part  of  the 
city,  which  it  supplies.  They  contain  together  11  mil- 
lions of  gallons.  The  steam  engine  is  no  longer  used. 
The  keeper  demands  nothing  tor  showing  the  works. 

The  house  of  Refuge  was  established  in  1828. 

Penitentiary.  Tnis  is  a  large  and  singular  construc- 
tion, and  built  on  a  plan  different  from  that  which  is 
at  present  most  in  vogue  in  this  country.  The  prison- 
ers are  to  be  all  kept  in  solitary  confinement. 

The  front  of  the  prison  is  large  and  imposing,  like 
the  gate  of  a  fortress.  The  wall  is  40  feet  high,  built 
of  granite,  and  encloses  a  square  650  feet  on  each  side. 
The  rooms  of  the  guard,  keepers,  and  servants,  as  well 
as  the  cooking  and  washing  rooms,  are  in  the  front 
building;  while  the  cells  are  formed  in  seven  ong 
stone  galleries,  radiating  from  an  octagon  in  the  centre. 
The  entrances  to  the  cells  are  through  little  yards  from 
the  outside,  and  each  has  a  wicket  door  in  the  gallery. 
A  sentinel  in  the  octagon,  by  turnir^  on  his  heel,  can 
look  through  all  the  galleries ;  and  the  arched  roofs  re- 
verberate every  sound,  so  that  he  can  hear  a  very 
slight  noise. 

This  prison  is  built  on  a  principle  believed  by  many 
to  be  erroneous.  Solitary  confinement  is  a  very  un- 
equal kind  of  punishment  to  different  individuals,  and 


i^! ' 


1"! 


■jj,^f,.^.i\.!-'i.-rj&-!^ii 


:^K''/ig 


10^ 


iiiTY    Ol'   VkllLAmAjVlllA. 


veiy  expensive  lo  the  public.  This  is  an  extensivt: 
experiment  on  an  old  and  exploded  system. 

The  JVaval  Hospital  is  situated  about  2  miles  south- 
west from  the  centre  of  the  city.  The  expense  is  de- 
frayed by  funds  contributed  by  the  oflicers  and  seamen 
of  the  U.  S.  Navy,  out  of  their  pay.  The  buildinj?  is 
on  an  eminence,  commands  an  extensive  view,  and 
makes  a  fine  appearance  from  a  distance.  The  front 
is  3«6  feet  in  length,  ^stories  high,  and  will  be  large 
enough  to  lodge  300  or  400  persons.  The  first  story 
is  of  granite,  and  the  2d  and  3d  of  nuirble,bolh  which 
kinds  of  stone  are  found  in  a])undance  in  the  vicinity 
of  Philadelphia.  Several  edifices  are  lo  be  erected  at 
other  naval  stations  for  the  same  objects,  and  supported 
by  the  same  fund. 

The  Arsenal  is  situated  just  below  the  Flospital. 

The  JVa-vy  Yard  {on  the  banks  of  the  Delaware). 
Here,  as  in  most  of  the  principal  navy  yards  in  the  U. 
States,  ships  of  war  are  built  under  the  shelter  of  im- 
mense buildings,  which  protect  the  workmen  and  the 
limber  from  exposure  to  the  weather.  Of  the  two  build- 
ings here,  the  larger  one  contains  the  line-of-battle 
ship  Pennsylvania,  said  to  be  intended  for  the  largest 
in  the  world.  She  is  to  carry  140  or  150  guns,  and  is 
building  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Huinphreys.  The 
smaller  house  is  for  frigates.  The  "Franklin"  and 
"  North  Carolina,"ships  of  the  line,  and  the  frigates  U. 
States  and  Guerriere  were  built  at  this  place.  In  1029 
the  frigate  Rariton  and  sloop  of  war  Vandal ia  were 
on  the  stocks. 

The  north  side  of  the  nav5r  yard  is  devoted  to  brick 
buildings  for  the  residence  of  officers,  ship  timber,  &;c. 
while  at  the  south  end  are  *he  workshops.  The  Mu- 
rine Barracks  are  on  the  western  side ;  and  the  area 
of  the  yard,  which  is  walled  with  brick,  is  about  12 
acres. 

'J'he  interests  of  the  city,  as  well  as  the  coasting 
trade,  will  be  benefited  bv  the  construction  of  Ibesrreat 


C11£0AP£AKE   AND   DELAWABE   ClANAt.        409 

Iheakwater  at  the  mouth  of  Delaware  Bay,  for  which 
Congress  appropriated  250,000  dollars.  It  is  an  ex- 
pensive work  ;  out  by  afibrdine  a  protection  to  vessels 
on  the  coast  in  dangerous  weather,  will  speedily  effect 
a  saving  equal  to  the  expense. 

The  extensive  meadows  south  of  Philadelphia  pre- 
sent a  beautiful  scene  of  fertility  and  cultivation.  A 
ride  in  that  direction  at  morning  or  evening  is  recom- 
mended. 

THE  CHESAPEAKE  AND  DELAWARE 

CANAL. 

The  steamboat  Newcastle  plies  between  Philadel- 
phia and  the  head  of  the  Canal  at  Delaware  city,  five 
miles  below  Newcastle.  A  large  hotel  is  erecting 
there.  There  are  steamboats  plying  between  Phila- 
delphia and  several  other  places.  On  'Cue  Chesapeake 
the  George  Washington  runs  between  the  canal  and 
Baltimore.    There  is  a  line  of  packets. 

This  is  the  most  gigantic  work  of  the  kind  ever 
effected  in  the  United  States,  in  regard  to  the  dimen- 
sions of  its  parts,  and  the  size  of  the  vessels  to  which 
it  is  intended  to  give  a  passage.  The  object  of  its 
construction  was  to  divert  a  large  portion  of  the  trade 
of  the  Susquehannah  river  into  Delaware  Bay,  chiefly 
for  the  benefit  of  Philadelphia.  It  was  partially 
opened  to  navigation  in  April,  1828;  and  the  Citizens' 
Line  of  packet  boats  having  been  established  upon  it, 
many  traveller*  will  be  anxious  to  avail  themselves  of 
an  early  opportunity  to  inspect  a  construction  on  every 
account  so  well  worthy  of^  attention.  These  boats  are 
90  feet  in  length,  and  veiy  elegant  and  commodious. 
Two  of  the  finest  barges  are  the  Baltimore  and  the 
Philadelphia, 

It  is  intended  for  sloops  of  the  largest  class,  and 
schooners :  the  locks  being  100  by  22  feet,  and  the 
canal  60  feet  wide  at  the  water  line.    It  was  originally 

Mm2 


I  i' 


iii'^iy 


r': 


110      ciii.&i.\n:Arvi'.  a.nj>  dei.aw  akj:  ca.nai.. 

intended  to  secure  a  depth  of  only  8  feel :  but  it  liub 
since  been  increased  to  10  feet.    The  steamboats  Car- 
roll and  William  Penn  are  very  fine  and  splendid. 
The  latter  is  408  tons,  150  feet  long,  and  draws  only  4^ 
feet  of  water ;  of  the  most  approved  model  for  speed, 
with  two  engines  of  nearly  eighty  horse  power,  con- 
structed upon  the  most  improved  and  safe  principles. 
Her  cabins  arc  so  arranged  as  to  form  at  pleasure  one 
entire  apartment  the  whole  leneth  of  the  vessel,  all  of 
w^hich  is  highly  fmished,  and  decorated  with  simpli- 
city, but  great  taste  ;  between  two  and  three  hundred 
might  dine  with  grcat  comfort  in  this  apartment ;  seven 
or  eight  hundred  perhaps  might  be  accommodated  on 
her  main  deck. 

The  principal  objects  upon  the  line  which  will  in- 
terest a  stranger  are,  the  harbour  on  the  Delaware,  the 
a(^oining  embankment  on  St.  George's  Marsh,  the 
Deep'  Cut,  and  the  Summit  Bridge.  Three  towns  have 
been  laid  out  on  the  route  :  Delaware,  Chesapeake,  and 
Bohemia. 

The  Harbour  on  the  Delaware  is  at  Delaware  City. 
It  is  formed  by  two  piers  running  into  the  water ;  one 
five  hundred  leet  long,  and  tlie  other  six  hundred,  with 
a  return  pier  of  one  hundred  feet.  Boats  enter  the  first 
lock  a  little  distance  from  this. 

Swivel  Bridge.  The  first  of  three  swivel  bridges 
is  passed  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  Dela- 
ware. 

St,  George'^s  Marsh.  This  is  a  low,  flat  tract  of  land, 
over  which  the  tide  ebbed  and  flowed  until  a  great 
embankment  was  raised  which  serves  as  a  towing 
path,  and  excludes  the  water.  The  soil  was  so  soil 
and  light,  that  earth  was  brought  from  a  distance  to 
form  the  bank  ;  which  gradually  sunk  so  far  that  it  is 
supposed  to  have  displaced,  in  some  parts,  a  quantity 
equal  to  a  column  ot  forty  feet.  At  St.  George*s  is 
another  lock,  of  the  usual  dimensions,  and  a  swivel 
bridge.  At  the  end  of  three  miles  the  Cranberry 
JMarshr?  are  also  passed  :  and  threo  miles  further  is 


mrm 


THE    I'E^NriiLVAMA    CANAL. 


411 


The  old  Mill  Pondy  wliich  serves  as  a  part  of  the 
canal. 

The  Deep  Cut  is  a  section  five  miles  long,  where  the 
height  of  the  bank  varies  from  8  to  70  feet.  Over  the 
middle  of  it  is  extended  the  Summit  bridee,  a  most 
imposing  construction,  reaching  from  hill  to  bill,  with  a 
single  arch  of  235  feet  span,  at  the  deepest  part  of  this 
immense  trench,  and  bearing  its  key  at  the  elevation 
of  90  feet  above  the  bottom  of  the  canal.  Schoonei's 
and  the  largest  sloops  ma}^  pass  beneath  with  their 
masts  standing  ;  ana  the  view  embraced  by  the  eye 
from  above  or  beloiv  is  grand,  impressive,  and  almost 
terrific. 

The  Western  Lift  Lock  is  a  few  miles  further  west  j 
and  beyond  this  a  Basin,  400  by  100  feet. 

The  Debouche  Lock  opens  at  the  end  of  the  Basin 
into  Back  Creek,  at  Chesapeake  Village,  4  miles  from 
Chesapeake  Bay. 

The  principal  reservoir  on  the  line  is  a  pond  of  100 
acres,  ten  feet  in  depth. 

(The  Pennsylvania  Canal. 

Under  this  general  name  is  comprehended  a  great 
and  extensive  system  of  internal  improvements,  for 
several  years  designed  by  the  Legislature  of  this  state. 
Numerous  plans  for  canals  and  railways  have  been 
proposed  and  considered,  surveys  have  oeen  made  of 
the  principal  routes  supposed  to  be  capable  of  im- 
provement for  the  benent  of  the  public,  and  consider- 
able progress  has  been  made  in  some  places  in  works 
to  connect  the  waters  of  the  Ohio  and  Susquehan- 
nah,  while  navigation  has  been  opened  up  to  the  Mauch  ■ 
Chunk  Mines,  &c.  It  will  be  some  time  before  the 
western  works  will  be  so  far  completed  as  to  attract 
many  travellers  from  the  established  routes  ;  but  such 
information  as  they  may  hereafter  desire,  may  be 
looked  for  in  subsequent  editions  of  this  little  book. 


li 


II 


112 


THB   PENNSYLVANIA   CANAL. 


In  1829,  there  were  435  miles  of  finished  canals  in 
Pennsylvania,  and  between  2  and  300  miles  remain  to 
be  completed. 

The  lollowing  is  a  j^eneral  outline  of  the  areat  west- 
ern plan  of  internal  improvements  undertaken  by  the 
Pennsylvania  Canal  Commissioners,  as  expressed  in 
their  report  to  the  Legislature.  *^  From  its  commence- 
ment at  Middletown  it  stretches  to  the  Juniata — thence 
up  that  river  to  the  foot  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains 
on  the  east,  and  crossing  the  ridee  to  connect  the 
waters  of  the  Susquehannah  with  the  Alleghany  and 
Ohio  rivere,  ascending  the  main  branch  of  tne  Susque- 
hannah with  the  dividing  point  of  the  eastern  and 
western  branches,  it  contemplates  an  improved  navi- 
gation to  the  sources  of  these  great  streams,  as  well 
as  some  of  their  tributary  branches — presenting  one 
cbnnected  chain  of  improved  or  canal  navigation  of 
not  less  than  five  hundred  miles  in  extent." 

The  eastern  part  of  this  work  was  completed  in 
1827 — from  the  susquehannah  at  Middletown  to  Har- 
risburgh.  A  Basin  is  formed  in  the  river  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Swatara,  opposite  the  basin  of  the  Union 
Canal,  with  which  it  communicates  by  a  lock  of  2^  feet 
lift.  It  has  also  an  outlet  lock,  and  a  lock  opening  into 
the  Sw2>tara  of  9  feet  lift.  The  canal  lies  principally 
in  an  easy,  alluvial  soil  from  the  Susquehannah  to  Har- 
risburgh,  and  passes  over  extensive  tracts  of  level 
countr)^.  There  are  ten  locks  in  that  distance,  begin- 
ning with  the  outlet  lock  at  Middletown.  They  are 
all  17  feet  b  90  in  the  chamber,  and  are  2^,  7,  8,  and 
9  feet  in  the  lift.  On  the  first  part  of  the  canal,  that 
is,  to  Clark's  Ferry,  23,7  miles,  the  breadth  at  bottom 
is  30  feet,  at  top  40,  and  the  depth  4;  while  the  re- 
mainder of  the  distance  to  Harrisourgh  it  is  larger — 35 
at  bottom,  45  at  top,  and  4^  ^^^P*  ^^  supply  the  ma- 
chinery at  the  latter  place.  The  canal  passes  on 
aqueducts  over  Paxton,  Fishing,  Stoney,  and  Clark's 
creeks,  and  is  to  be  supplied  from  the  Susquehannah, 
from  15  miles  above  JHarrisburgh.    Many  rocks  were 


TILE    rL.NNjjiLVAMA   CA.NAL. 


iK; 


blasted  here.    There  arc  basins  at  Harrisburgh  and 
Clark's  creeks.*] 


.'! 


*  The  Juniata  River  is  a  stream  of  a  remarkably  romantic  cliaraclcr, 
beiiifi!  enclosed  by  high,  rude,  and  rocky  eminences,  which  present  a 
constant  variety  of  Hccncry.  Since  its  course  has  bieen  selected  as  u 
part  of  the  great  canal  route,  it  may  be  safely  predicted  that  its  scenes 
ure  destined  to  administer  to  the  enjoyment  of  many  travellers. 

From  the  junction  of  the  two  branches  the  canal  will  run  on  the 
west  side  as  far  as  Sunbury ;  a  dnm  being  constructed  at  Shainokin 
Kipples,  which  will  form  an  extensive  and  convenient  harbour  for  boatH, 
and  afford  srcat  water  power  for  manufactories.  The  Legislature  have 
authoriz(;d  the  opening  of  slack  water  navigation  between  the  river  and 
Shnmokin  Coal  Mines. 

On  the  Frniikstown  branch  of  the  Juniata  river,  5  miles  below  Franks 
town,  is  an  intermitting  spring,  which  often  has  a  flux  and  reflux  three 
or  four  times  in  an  hour.    Tliree  or  four  feet  from  it  is  anotlicr  spring; 
which  flows  regularly  and  constantly. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  works  authorized  by  the  Legislature  in 
1828,  in  pursuance  of  the  threat  system  of  internal  improvement  comprc- 
liended  in  the  Pennsylvania  Canal. 

Canals  and  locks  are  to  be  contracted  for,  Ist,  from  Northumberland 
to  the  Bald  Eagle,  on  the  west  branch  of  the  Susquehannah ;  'id,  from 
Northumberland  along  the  north  branch  to  the  New- York  state  line ; 
."^d,  from  Pittsburgh,  by  the  Beaver  route,  to  Erie  on  Lake  Erie ;  4th, 
from  Taylor's  Ferry  to  Easton  on  the  Delaware;  5th,  from  Blairsvillo  on 
the  Conen)augh(a)  to  the  highest  practicable  point. 

From  25  to  45  miles  each  of  these  sections,  and  the  whole  of  the 
French  Creek  Feeder,  were  contracted  for  that  season. 

6th.  There  is  to  be  located  a  road  across  the  Alleghany  mountains,  to 
connect  the  Juniata  and  Conemaugh  sections,  to  be  completed  as  early 
as  those  sections. 

7th.  A  railroad  is  to  be  located  from  Philadelphia  through  Lancaster 
to  Columbus  on  the  Susquehannah,  30  miles  of  which  were  contracted 
for  the  first  year. 

8th.  Surveys  and  examinations  were  made  for  a  canal  along  tlie 
iNfotKumahela  from  Pittsburgh  to  Virginia. 

Uth  Surveys  and  examinations  from  the  Raystown  branch  of  the 
Juniata  to  the  Conemaugh,  for  a  canal  or  railway. 

For  the  expense  of  these  two  millions  of  dollars  were  appropriated. 

(Tlie  banks  of  the  Susquehannah  are  the  most  fertile  in  the  south- 
oastorn  pfvt  nC  the  ptnte;  and  the  mountains  abound  in  anthracite  coal. 
The  muK.'ral  wealth  which  the  great  public  works  will  draw  from  its  beds 
must  be  immense,  as  well  as  various.) 


i-ii 
1'!; 


(a)  There  are  salt  springs  in  the  vicfiity.  The  salt  water  at  the  Cone- 
)naugh  works  yiehis  a  bushel  of  salt  for  300  gallons.  The  salt  wells  o\\ 
the  Kiskeminetap.  the  Fame  quantity  for  every  40  or  ."iO  i^nJIons. 


warn 


114 


KOUTES   TO  THE   COAL   MINES. 


ROUTE  FROM  PHILADELPHIA  TO  NEW- 
.  ,     YORK. 

(See  page  432.)  The  Railroad  granted  by  New- 
.Fersey,  from  Camden  to  Amboy,  (with  a  branch  to 
Bordentown^)  will  probably  be  soon  constructed. 


ROUTES  TO  THE  COAL  MINES. 

In  consequence  of  the  opening  of  the  vast  beds  of 
coal  between  the  Delaware  and  Schuylkill  rivers,  at  a 
distance  of  about  80  or  100  miles  north  of  Philadel- 
phia, that  tract  of  country  has  become  an  object  of 
great  interest;  and  since  the  travelling  has  lieen  re- 
cently improved  by  the  construction  of  roads  and 
canafs,  and  the  establishment  of  good  inns,  stage 
coaches,  and  canal  boats,  a  jaunt  in  that  direction  is 
now  a  very  common  and  fashionable  one. 

The  Union  Gzna/,  which  runs  from  the  Schuylkill 
at  Rending  to  Middl?town  on  the  Susquehannah,  will 
also  attract  travellers  in  this  direction.  Those  who 
find  it  convenient,  will  be  pleai^ed  to  extend  their 
journey  west  by  the  Pennsylvania  Canal  from  Middle- 
town  to  Lancaster.  The  Pennsylvania  Canal  Com- 
f)any  have  some  of  the  most  commodious  boats  on  this 
ine,  which  start  from  the  Schuylkill  below  the  Per- 
ma.ient  Bridge,  and  go  to  Middletown. 

[The  traveller  may  make  Bedford  Springs  an  object 
on  this  route.] 

In  the  tract  of  country  north  from  Philadelphia  are 
found  inexhaustible  quantities  of  coal,  in  elevated 
ridges  and  mountains  of  the  Alleghany  range,  which 
are  supposed  to  be  connected  with  those  which  are 
known  on  the  western  side  of  the  range,  although  they 
are  of  different  characteristics.  The  western  coal  is 
easily  combuF^ble,  and  resembles  that  imported  from 
jLiverpool,  &t.,  while  the  former  is  hard)  very  diifi^ 


rue!  COAL  am  La. 


U 


cult  to  kindle*  and  burns  with  very  little  flame.  It  i»f 
however,  of  great  purity,  bcinp^  of  that  sort  known  to 
geologists  by  the  name  of  Anthracite,  and  is  now  very 
extensively  used  for  fuel  in  Philadelphia,  New-York^ 
and  different  parts  of  the  countiy.  It  only  requires 
a  fireplace  on  the  plan  of  a  furnace,  and  a  little  ex- 
perience in  managing  it.  The  varieties  of  this  coal 
come  down  in  a  kind  of  rude  square  boats,  called 
arks,  drawing  only  12  or  15  inches  of  water,  but  con- 
taining about  260  bushels  each,  which  may  usually  be 
seen  on  the  shores  of  the  Schuylkill,  and  at  the  docks 
in  the  Delaware.  It  is  only  a  few  years  since  this 
coal  was  supposed  to  be  entirely  worthless ;  and  now 
the  demand  is  enormous.  In  1829,25,110  tons  of  coal 
came  from  the  Lehigh  mines,  and  79,973  were  received 
by  the  Schuylkill  river. 

The  whole  length  of  the  line  of  navigation,  under- 
taken and  completed  by  the  Schuylkill  company,  is 
110  miles;  and  the  work  is  consicTered  the  greatest 
ever  performed  in  this  country  by  private  individuals. 
It  commences  at  the  Lancaster  Schuylkill  bridge,  and 
ends  at  Mount  Carbon.  Sixty-two  miles  of  it  are  bj 
canals,  and  46  by  pools  in  the  river.  The  number  of 
houses  for  lock  keepers  is  65,  the  number  of  lock<r 
below  Reading,  39,  (toll  ^  cents,)  and  above  Reading, 
86,  (toll  4  cents,)  being  in  the  whole  125,  of  which 
28  are  guard  locks ;  overcoming  a  fall  of  610  feet. 
Toll  on  a  ton,  $11  35i  cents.  In  1827,  1329  boats 
were  loaded  at  Mount  Carbon,  for  Philadelphia,  with 
coal :  in  all,  31,364  tons. 

The  obstacles  which  the  surface  of  the  country  pre- 
.sents  to  works  of  such  a  nature  in  this  state,  are  un- 
usually great,  as  may  be  supposed,  when  it  is  remarked, 
that  eight  ranges  of  mountains  pass  through  Pennsyl- 
vania ^om  north-east  to  south-west,  and  that  the  height 
of  land  is  supposed  to  be  8  or  900  feet  in  the  lowest 
place,  so  that  the  rivers  descend  very  much  in  their 
courses.  It  has  been  necessary  to  make  more  lockage 
on  the  Schuylkill  line,  than  or>  the  whole  Erio  canal  in 


mmm 


41G 


KOUTES    TO   THE    COAL   3ili\i:s. 


New- York.  Besides  this,  the  country  is  of  the  transi- 
tion formation,  with  sloping  strata,  which  cause  much 
leaking. 

In  1825,  the  expense  had  amounted  to  nearly  three 
millions;  and  it  was  expected  that  another  million 
would  be  required  to  complete  the  navigation.  The 
articles  brought  down,  are  coal,  lumber,  limestone, 
iron  ore,  with  flour,  and  many  products  of  agriculture 
and  manufacture. 

The  amount  of  tolls  collected  in  1825,  was  only 
$15,775;  but  the  canal  was  open  only  a  part  of  llie 
season.     It  has  since  greatly  increased. 

Road  to  the  Leuigii  Coal  Mines, 
At  Mauch  Chunk, 


o 


The  mail  coach  for  Bethlehem,  Wilkesbarre,  (Jc 
iieva,  Niagara,  and   Buffalo,  starts   from   Field's,  in 
Race-street,  (between  tJd  and  4th  streets,)  on  Mori- 
davs,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays,  at  6  A.  M. 

The  Bristol  and  Easton  stage  coach  goes  daily,  al 
G  A.  M.,  from  North  2d  street,  above  Market. 

The  Easton  mail,  every  week  day,  from  124  Noitlj 
4th  street. 

It  is  recommended,  however,  to  take  one  of  thf? 
Union  Line  Steamboats,  and  go  up  the  Delaware  to 
Bristol,  whence  stage  coaches  go  to  Easton.  A  packet 
boat  was  to  be  established  on  the  canal  from  Easton  to 
Mauch  Chunk. 

Philadelphia  to  Rising  Sun,  4  miles ;  Branchtown. 
(Child's  tavern,)  4;  Shoemakertown,  8;  Jenkintown, 
10  ;  Abington,  12  ;  Wiilovvgrove,  14  ;  Horsham,  16  ; 
Graham  Park,  22  ;  Newville,  — ;  Doyleston,  26  ;  Dan- 
ville, 29;  Roderick's  tavern,  — ;  Tohicken  bridge,  — ; 
Easton,  (see  page  425,)  5  ;  Mauch  Chunk,  (see  page; 
428,) — .  The  traveller  may  take  either  the  Stagf. 
Coach f  or  the  • — 


llOtTE    It*   THE   SCm/VLiaLL  MINES.  417 


Canal  Rotite  to  the  Schuylkill  Coal  Mines. 

At  Mount  Carbon. 

The  Steamboat  Schuylkill  goes  from  Fairmount 
to  Manayunk  twice  a  day.  The  excursion  may  give 
a  brief  introduction  to  the  scfenery  of  the  Schuylkill  ; 
and  that  place  is  remarkably  wild  and  singular.  On 
the  whole  line  of  this  river,  there  are  no  less  than  31 
dams. 

In  1827,  the  amount  of  tolls  taken  on  the  Schuylkill 
was  $15,775 ;  and  in  1829,  $120,039. 

The  canal  boats  start  on  the  Schuylkill  at  regular 
hours,  for  which  the  traveller  is  referred  to  the  news^ 
papers.  A  carriage  will  be  necessary,  as  the  boats 
lie  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  city. 

On  this  route  a  boat  with  one  horse  performs  the 
work  of  7  wagons  and  28  horses.  Mercnandise  goes 
from  Philadelphia  to  Mount  Carbon  for  g5  a  ton. 

Manayunk  is  a  lai^e  manufacturing  village,  begun 
only  about  1819  or  1820.  The  manufactories  are  Fur- 
nished with  water  by  a  canal  3  miles  in  length,  through 
which  the  boat  will  pass.  In  1825  there  were  six 
buildings  of  this  description,  some  of  them  150  feet 
long,  called  the  Flat  Rock,  Woodvilie,  &c.  Manufac- 
tories. Keating  and  Co.'s  is  intended  lor  6000  spin- 
dles, with  water-looms  for  weaving.  The  building  is 
20*^  feet  long  and  45  wide. 

The  water  power  is  still  sufficient  for  an  immense 
number.  There  is  an  oil,  paper,  and  grist  mill  at  this 
place ;  and  a  considerable  village  formed  of  the 
dwellings  of  the  workmen,  stores,  &c.  This  tract  of 
country  is  very  rich  in  water  falls.  [The  county  of 
Delaware,  which  is  very  small,  contains  about  130 
manufactories  of  different  descriptions,  moved  by 
water.] 

Passing  from  the  canal,  the  boat  enters  the  Flat 
Hock  IV'i^in  and  the  river. 


.!i 


lii 


'i 


iia 


KUUTEb   TU  'i'llK    COAL   MIMi^S. 


Plymouth  Locks. — Here  is  a  canal  about  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  long.  A  little  below  it  is  a  large 
spring  which  supplies  a  mill.  It  yields  such  a  sur- 
l^rising  stream  of  water,  that  it  was  once  proposed  to 
conduct  it  to  Philadelphia  for  the  use  of  the  city.  The 
marble  quarries  are  also  in  this  vicinity;  from  which 
stone  is  sent  to  the  same  place. 

JSI'orristown  contains  some  fine  houses,  as  well  ^as  a 
court  house,  jail,  and  two  churches,  one  in  the  Gothic 
style,  which  stands  in  a  conspicuous  situation.  A  cot- 
ton manufactory  or  two  will  be  found  here.  The 
village  is  on  the  same  side  of  the  river  as  the  canal, 
A  bridge  has  been  lately  erected  here  800  feet  long. 

The  Sluice. — This  is  a  place  where  the  current  of 
the  river  was  very  rapid,  and  required  a  dam — 4  miles 
from  Norristown.     Catfish  Island  Dam,  1  mile. 

Pottsgrove,  36  miles  from  Philadelphia,  is  a  pretty 
village. 

Reading,  54  miles  from  Philadelphia,  is  a  place  of 
considerable  importance,  inhabited  by  Germans,  and 
contains  some  handsome  public  buildings.  The  Union 
Canal  begins  below  the  town  at  a  point  60  miles  from 
Philadelphia. 

[The  Uivion  Caical. 

After  parting  from  the  Schuylkill  two  miles  below- 
Reading,  this  canal  passes  up  the  western  shore  of  the 
river,  to  the  valley  of  the  Tulpehocken;  and  then 
follows  that  valley  till  within  five  miles  oi  Lebanon, 
where  begins  the  summit  level.  In  all  this  distance 
it  rises  311  feet,  by  numerous  locks  of  4  and  8  feet 
lift.  The  canal  is  24  feet  wide  at  bottom,  4  deep, 
and  36  on  the  surface.  The  Svmrnit  Level  is  ten  miles 
and  78  chains  in  length.  On  this  part  of  the  canal  is 
the  Tunnel;  an  excavation  bored  through  a  hill  for  a 
<listance  of  739  feet,  the  face  of  the  hill  having  beer, 
cut  away  at  the  entrance  25  feet.  This  dark  and 
U'loomv  pa«5aa:o  is  18  feet  in  breadth  nnd  14  feethisfh 


Ci 

fro 
no 
an 


of 
wa 


mc 
th( 


THE    t.NlON    l-ANAli. 


419 


The  great  water-wheel,  at  the  mouth  of  Clark's 
Creek,  is  36  feet  in  diameter,  and  raises  the  water 
from  the  Swatara  Feeder  into  the  summit,  near  Leba- 
non. It  works  two  forcing  pumps  14i  inches  in  di- 
ameter, and  propels  water  through  a  raising  main  650 
feet  long,  30  in  diameter,  to  a  perpendicular  height  of 
93  feet.^  The  company  have  there  also  a  steam  engine 
of  100  horse  power,  though  it  is  believed  a  head 
water  of  three  feet.  The  Union  canal  was  com- 
menced in  1823  and  finished  in  1827 ,;  and,  including 
the  navigable  Feeder,  is  above  80  miles  in  extent. 
The  whole  expense  was  about  a  million  and  a  half. 
It  is  supposed  that  after  the  completion  of  the  Penn- 
sylvania canal,  200,000  tons  of  goods,  &c.,  will  pass 
through  the  Union  canal  in  a  year,  at  $2  a  ton.  The 
extension  of  it  to  the  Swatara  coal  mines,  includii^  4 
or  5  miles  of  railway  on  that  i-oute,  Hn  all  18  miles,) 
will  cost  about  $120,000,  and  add  about  50,000  tons 
annually.  The  distance  to  Pittsburgh  from  Middle- 
town,  hy  the  Pennsylvania  canal,  will  be  296  miles. 

The  trade  on  this  canal  in  1829  amounted  to  little 
more  than  that  in  the  produce  of  its  banks ;  but  50  or 
60  boats  were  preparing  on  the  Susquehannah  and 
Juniata,  expected  to  be  employed  in  transportation 
upon  it.  The  difference  in  freight  to  HarrisDurgh  is 
$4  50  per  ton  in  favour  of  the  canal.  An  abundant 
supply  of  water  has  been  obtained  for  the  lower 
levels  by  the  feeders  on  the  western  sections ;  and  by 
.sheathing:  and  raising  t|;ie  sides  on  the  summit,  leaking 
is  prevented.  The  dam  at  the  Swatara  was  expected 
to  be  completed  early  in  1830.  Near  Pine  Grove  an 
immense  quantity  of  coal  has  been  discovered ;  and 
the  head  of  navigation  in  that  direction  has  betn  fixed 
within  four  miles  of  that  region.  That  section 
was  to  be  done  in  July,  1830 ;  and  from  its  extremity 
railroads  are  to  branch  off  along  the  valleys  of  the 
Swatara  and  its  tributaries,  as  well  as  one  at  Fish 
Creek,  to  be  constructed  either  by  the  company  or  by 
individuals.  The  coal,  it  is  saidf,  can  be  wrousrht  as 
rhenolv  as  that  of  Mount  Carbon. 


I 


fc«»i^Mrju>i>.-?»waagj-Tr-.. . :.,« ■■ 


J 


\"20 


KOUTES   TO    THE    COAL   MlJNEti. 


The  summit  level  lies  on  a  limestone  soil,  which 
makes  it  necessary  to  plank  the  bottom  and  sides  of 
the  canal,  to  prevent  the  filtration  of  water.  Narrow 
boats  have  been  introduced  on  this  canal,  fn>m  a  con- 
viction of  their  being  of  easier  draft.  This  work  was 
commenced  some  years  ago  by  David  Rittenhouse, 
Robert  Morris,  and  others,  but  given  up;  The  locks 
are  thought  capable  of  passinj^  a  boat  every  five  or 
six  minutes ;  and  the  canal,  it  the  banks  and  locks 
were  raised  one  foot,  would  be  large  enough  for  boats 
of  40  tons,  and  able  to  admit  the  passage  of  nearly 
two  millions  of  tons  annually.  The  summit  level 
opens  westwardlv  upon  the  valley  of  Clark's  Creek. 
Hence  the  canal  passes  on  the  Swatara  river,  which 
has  two  dams,  and  whose  course  it  follows  to  Middle- 
town  on  the  Susquehannah.  The  descent  to  this  river 
from  the  summit  level  is  192  feet  6  inches,  surmounted 
by  37  locks.^  There  are  12  aqueducts  on  the  whole 
Toute,  one  of  them  276<  feet  long,  and  another  165. 
There  are  93  lift  locks,  75  feet  wide  and  72  long : 
most  of  them  laid  with  water  cement.  The  boats 
most  approved  for  transportation  on  this  canal  are 
long,  8  teet  3  inches  wide.  The  tolls  on  the  most 
coarse  and  bulky  articles  are  half  per  cent,  per  mile. 
Coal,  lime,  marble,  pig  iron,  &c.  pay  three-quarters 
per  cent. ;  flour,  grain,  salted  provisions,  potash,  &c.  a 
cent  and  a  quarter ;  boards,  plank,  &c.  one  cent  per 
1000  feet ;  timber,  one  cent  per  solid  foot.  Salt,  mer- 
chandise, &c.  passing  westward,  pay  two  cents  a  ton 
per  mile. 

The  toll  on  passage  boats  is  twenty  cents  a  mile  ; 
and  on  loaded  freight  Koats  only  two  cents. 

That  part  of  the  Pennsylvania  Canal  between  the 
Susquehannah  and  Harrisburgh*  was  opened  to  navi- 
gation in  1829 ;  and  large  tracts  on  different  parts  are 
in  different  stages  of  progress. 

The  following  list  of  places  and  distances  by  the 
canal  route  may  prove  of  some  interest  to  the  traveller. 
From   Middletown  to  the  month  of  the  Juniata,  21 


THE    ->10t.\TAl.N  DAM. 


4:^:1 


miles ;  hence  to  Lewiston,  up  that  stream,  45 ;  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Juniata  to  Northumberland,  45 ;  thence, 
up  the  north  branch  of  the  Susquehannah,  to  Nanticoke 
Falls,  55 ;  from  the  mouth  of  the  Juniata  to  Smith's 
Mills,  above  Huntini^don,  90;  from  Middletown  to 
Muncy  Hills,  on  the  west  branch  of  the  Susquehannah, 
100  ;  from  Johnstown  to  Pittsburgh,  is  104  miles.  It 
is  proposed  to  cross  the  Alleghany  mountains  by  a 
railway  38  miles  long,  including  a  tunnel  a  mile  in 
length  at  the  summit :  the  whole  expense  of  which  is 
estimated  at  $936,000. 

fVe  return  to  the  Schuylkill  JVavigation.] 

From  Reading,  the  road  passes  lor  some  distance 
near  the  river,  and  affords  an  opportunit}r  to  see  the 
canals,  dams,  &c.  made  to  assist  the  navigation.  It 
passes  near  Duncan^s  Job,  a  piece  of  deep  cutting  in 
a  solid  rock,  60  feet  down.  This  place  is  five  or  six 
miles  from  Reading.  In  1829,  a  vein  of  Anthracite 
coal  was  discovered  at  Reamstown,  half  the  distance 
to  Lancaster. 

Numerous  shafts  have  been  sunk  near  the  Schuylkill 
for  Anthracite  coal.  The  Peach  Orchard  mines  afford 
beautiful  particoloured  specimens.  In  these,  and 
others,  specks  and  lumps  of  perfect  charcoal  have 
been  found,  imbedded  in  the  fossil — with  other  ap- 
pearances which  tend  to  raise  many  conjectures  con- 
cerning the  original  formation  of  these  mines. 

The  road  to  Hambureh  from  Reading  lies  through 
the  Gre  it  Limestone  Valley  of  Pennsylvania ;  which 
has  the  Kittatinny  chain  of  mountains  on  the  north,  and 
the  Blue  'v^^ge  on  the  south.  The  surface  is  beauti- 
fully varied  by  the  natural  undulations  of  the  surface  ; 
and  the  road  aftbrds  a  very  tine  succession  of  beautiful 
scenes,  where  the  well-cultivated  farms  are  usually 
backed  by  ranges  of  fine  mountains.  The  inhabitants 
dwell  in  good,  and  often  handsome  houses,  while  theii 
great  stone  barns  speak  thorough  husbandry. 

The  Moimtain  Dam,  near  Hamburgh,  is  27  feet  high. 


"    1, 


RimilfMw*— 'lA-'l 


42JiJ 


U(H  TJh:a   TO    THE    COAL   MINES. 


.»i 


Hamburou. 


This  is  a  small  village,  with  nearly  a  hundred 
houses,  with  a  church  situated  in  a  romantic  position, 
at  the  entrance  of  the 

Schuylkill  Water  Gap. — This  is  a  narrow  gorge, 
through  which  the  river  runs  over  a  steep  and  rocKy 
channel  for  four  or  five  miles;  leaving  no  room  upon 
its  banks,  which  rise  abruptly  on  each  side  to  the 
height  of  several  hundred  feet.  The  road  has  been 
cut  out  along  the  tace  of  one  of  these  ranges,  at  a 
great  elevation;  where  the  surface  is  in  many  places 
of  such  a  declivity,  as  to  require  it  to  be  si'oported 
by  walls  of  stone.  The  views  which  are  here  anbrded 
to  the  traveller  are  romantic  and  varied  in  a  high  de- 
gree; presenting  the  woody  mountains  in  dinerent 
directions,  with  the  course  of  the  Schuylkill  winding 
through  them.  There  is  a  spring  which  passes  the 
road,  remarkable  only  as  the  boundary  between  two 
contiguous  counties. 

Tlie  Little  Schuylkill  River,  a  branch  of  the  princi- 
pal stream,  runs  through  a  valley  of  the  same  general 
description  ;  and  here  lies  the  road  to  Mount  Carbon. 
The  country  will  hardly  admit  of  any  cultivation ; 
and  few  inhabitants  are  seen. 

Iron  Works. — The  iron  works  of  Mr.  Old  are  situated 
at  the  termination  of  this  valley,  on  a  small  meadow, 
shut  in  by  mountains :  a  wild[  and  secluded  scene. 
The  proprietor  has  a  handsome  house ;  and  the  shops 
and  Qwellings  of  the  workmen  are  numerous.  The 
scenery  beyond  retains  its  interesting  character. 

The  Tunnel. — This  is  a  place  where  a  hill  has  been 
bored  through  375  yards  for  a  canal,  about  three  miles 
from  Orwigsburgh. 

Port  Carbon,  at  the  head  of  the  Schuylkill  navi- 
gation, is  a  point  at  which  the  railroads  of  Mill  Creek 
and  the  valley  germinate.    Six  miles  above,  on  thr 


cu 


MOUNT    CARB(:)^. 


12S 


ix)ute  ot  the  latter,  is  Selzers— a  new  town.  This  rail- 
road reaches  to  within  about  eight  miles  of  Mauoh 
Chunk. 

Orwigsburoh, 

about  eig:ht  miles  from  the  Gap.  This  village  is  three 
miles  distant  from  the  river,  and  enjoys  an  agreeable 
situation,  although  the  soil  is  not  very  good.  It  is 
rather  larger  than  Hamburgh,  and  contains  a  court 
house,  jail,  &c.  The  German  language  here  prevails, 
and  is  used  in  the  church  as  well  as  in  the  ordinary 
-concerns  of  life.  Iron  has  lately  been  discovered  near 
this  place. 


MOUNT  CARBON, 

eight  miles,  is  in  sight  of  several  coal  mines. 

The  coal  country  in  this  regiijn  begins  in  Luzerne^ 
on  the  upper  part  of  the  Lnckawana  River,  following 
its  course  to  the  Susquehannah,  And  along  that  stream, 
principally  on  the  eastern  bank,  to  18  miles  beyond 
Wilkesbarre.  It  runs  south  to  the  Lehigh  River,  and 
thence  south-west,  through  Schuylkill  county. 

It  is  estimated  to  extend  about  70  miles ;  and  about 
the  middle  of  the  ranare  is  8  or  9  miles  wide,  growing 
narrower  towards  each  end.  At  Mount  Carbon  the 
coal  occurs  in  beds  4  or  5  feet  in  thickness,  generally 
running  east  and  west ;  and  dipping  to  the  south  at  45 
degrees,  with  a  slate  rock  immediately  over  it,  and 
strata  of  sandstone  and  earth  above.  The  slate,  as 
usual,  in  the  vicinity  of  coal,  presents  the  impressions 
of  organized  substances  at  some  ancient  period  im- 
bedded in  its  substance :  such  as  the  leaves  ef  laurel, 
fern,  &c. 

In  consequence  of  the  inclination  of  the  coal  veins 
into  the  earth,  the  miners  have,  in  some  places,  sunk 
shafts  to  the  depth  of  150  feet,  with  lateral  excava- 


424 


KOLTES   TO   THE   COAL   MlKLa. 


tions,  east  and  west,  of  various  lengths  to  300.  Tyvu 
.small  carriages  called  Trams,  are  used  in  a  sloping 
shaft  to  bring  the  coal  out,  being  made  to  descend  by 
turns ;  but  in  the  horizontal  one,  which  has  been  crf- 
ried  in  about  500  feet,  they  employ  wheelbarrows. 
Some  of  the  veins  run  perpendicularly. 

Sharp  Mountain,  600  feet  high,  and  Broad  Moun- 
tain, 900,  are  penetrated  by  nunienus  mines.  The 
coal  is  dug  out  with  wedges,  drills,  and  sledges,  &c. 
and  as  it  costs  only  about  $50  to  open  a  mine,  and  no- 
thing else  but  labour  in  digging  and  raising  it,  the  ad- 
vantages are  not  confined  to  capitalists.  Wagoners  are 
ready  to  transport  the  coal  to  the  landings,  and  put  it 
into  Doats. 

The  canal  has  been  extended  from  Port  Carbon  up 
to  Mill  Creek,  which  will  supply  great  quantities  of 
coal.  A  railroad,  from  5  to  8  miles  long,  is  designed 
to  be  extended  from  Schuylkill  River  to  the  mines  on 
the  West  Branch.  In  1823  there  were  but  5  houses  at 
Mount  Carbon  ;  and  in  1827  more  than  100,  with  1200 
inhabitants,  besides  the  landing. 

Route  to  the  Lehigh  Coal  Mines, 
At  Mauch  Chunk. 

The  traveller  going  from  Philadelphia  to  the  Lehigh 
Mines,  may  take  one  of  the  steamboats  to  Bristol, 
whence  a  stage  coach  starts,  on  their  arrival,  for  New- 
town and  New-Hope,  34  miles  from  Philadelphia ; 
and  thence  for  Easton,  36  miles  more,  nearly  all  of 
which  is  along  the  bank  of  the  Delaware,  and  com- 
mands a  view  of  its  wild  and  interesting  scenery. 

There  are  three  routes  from  Philadelphia  by  which 
Mauch  Chunk  may  be  reached  :  1st.  By  the  way  of 
Bethleheoi  ;  2d.  By  the  way  of  Easton  through 
Doylestown ;  and  3d.  By  the  way  of  Bristol,  also 
through  Easton.  By  either  route  you  reach  the  village 
ir)  a  day  and  a  half.     [For  these  places,  see  hdex."} 


EAUTO^. 


425 


New-Hope  is  in  a  romantic  situation ;  and  Goat  Hill 
iises  opposite  to  the  height  of  500  feet,  its  top  aflfording 
a  line  view.  2  miles  south  of  this  villagiB  is  Ingham's 
Spring,  which  furnishes  a  supply  of  water  to  no  less 
than  13  water  wheels.  Bridges  cross  the  Delaware  to 
New-Jersey  at  New-Hope  and  Mitcheirs. 

Delaware  Water  Gap.  The  scenery  at  this  spot  is 
romantic  and  beautiful.  The  course  of  the  river 
appears  at  a  little  distance  as  if  arrested  by  two  op- 
posite mountains,  between  which  it  flows  in  a  narrow 
channel,  suddenly  contracting  itself  to  a  furlong's 
breadth,  from  a  oroad,  smooth,  and  unbroken  sheet 
like  a  lake  of  considerable  extent.  Every  feature  in 
this  beautiful  scene  leads  one  to  believe,  that  the  bar- 
rier opposed  to  the  water  was  once  much  higher  than 
now,  and  that  the  country  was  consequently  overflown 
for  a  considerable  distance  above  the  existing  banks. 
There  is  some  fertile  land  in  the  vicinity,  ancTthe  hills 
contain  many  mineral  treasures :  iron  ore,  &c.  &c.      - 

■^  '  ■/■  ^r-^>     EASTON.      ';.='.,V,.,-'^':-\.../ 

This  is  a  village  of  some  size,  and  a  central  point 
from  which  numerous  roads  diverge,  and  stage  coaches 
run  in  various  directions.  It  is  situated  in  a  rich  val- 
ley, enclosed  by  the  South  and  Blue  Mountains.  It  i3 
about  52  miles  from  Philadelphia,  and  contains  about 
3000  inhabitants.  Within  a  compass  of  a  rniie  and  a 
half  are  18  mills;  and  250,000  barrels  of  liour  are  an- 
nually sent  to  the  capital.  Nearly  150,000  bushels  of 
grain  are  also  consumed  at  the  distilleries  in  a  year, 
and  converted  into  poison  for  the  body  and  the  mind. 
(Writing  slates  are  quarried  in  this  vicinity.) 

The  following  is  a  list  of  distances  from  Easton  on 
the  different  stage  routes.  New-York,  70  miles; 
Scholey's  Mountain,  23 ;  Morristown,  41  ;  New- 
Brunswick,  45 ;  Bethlehem,  12  ;  Mauch  Chunk,  34 ; 
Nazareth,  7  :  Delaware  Wind  Gap,  20 ;  Stroudsbuiigb, 


1  ■^  il^^HHH^^^^^I 


ii.u*ni>  j.';.;^Sw':a^«wsii^3£S 


ii,H1411!MWII-»in" 


420 


liouTi:  To  Till:  COM.  mine^. 


'27  ;  Wilkesbarre,  52 ;  Belvidere,  12  ;  Reading,  6si . 
Newtown,  (Sussex  county,)  40. 

From  Newtown  a  coach  runs  three  limes  a  week, 
to  Montrose,  Oweffo,  Ithaca,  and  Geneva,  and  commu- 
nicates with  the  Erie  canal,  and  with  the  direct  route 
to  Buffalo.        

Thk  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal 

was  bee:un  July  r3th,  1825,  and  was  navigable  late  in 
the  year  1828.  It  commences  at  Kin^rston,  on  the 
Hudson  River,  and  runs  over  to  Carpenter's  Point,  on 
the  Delaware  River,  through  the  valley  of  the  Never- 
sink  Creek,  tlience  up  the  valley  of  the  Delaware  to 
the  Lacka waxen  Creek,  at  Honesdale,  and  up  that 
creek  to  the  foot  of  the  railway.  This  is  a  continuous 
canal  of  106  miles  in  length,  and  was  completed  from 
the  Delaware  to  the  Hudson  in  1827,  and  is  now  iinisbed 
and  in  operation  through  its  whole  extent,  and  coal  is 
passing  in  considerable  quantities.  The  railway  com- 
mences at  the  termination  of  the  canal,  and  runs  over 
Moosick  mountain^  to  the  coal  mines  on  the  Lackawana 
Creek,  in  length  16  t  miles,  overcoming  an  elevation  of 
858  feet.  Seven  locomotive  steam  engines  will  be  em- 
ployed onthree  planes,  and  live  stationary  engines  and 
three  brakes  on  the  ascents.  The  ascents  where  the  sta- 
tionary engines  and  brakes  are  used,  are  graduated  at 
5  degrees.  The  railway  and  all  its  appurtenances 
will  be  completed  in  1 828,  at  an  estimated  expense  of 
$178,000.  The  cost  of  each  locomotive  engine  about 
g  1,600,  and  weight  about  six  tons. 

Carbondale  is  the  mining  village  on  the  Lackawana 
River,  opened  by  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal 
Company.  It  is  8  miles  from  Dundaff,  and  32  from 
Wilkesbarre. 

At  Easton  will  be  seen  the  dam  over  the  Delaware, 


at  ti 
viga 
plac 
the 
Deh 
unin 
T 
12  n 
and 


*  Prom  this  commanding  height  the  view  ia  fire,  and  the  Caiskill 
Moiuitninp.  in  •Vew-York.  are  visible,  at  the  riistancf  of  9ft  or  100  miles 


liij^LAWAltl;:    AMJ    JHiJiaU.\    CA.NAL. 


ii7 


at  the  termination  of  the  works  for  improvinj?  the  na- 
vigation of  Lehigh  River,  from  Maucb  Chunk  to  this 
place.  The  state  of  Pennsylvania  intend  to  extend 
the  navigation,  by  a  canal  on  the  western  bank  of  the 
Delaware,  to  Bristol,  when  the  communication  will  be 
uninterrupted  to  Philadelphia.  '    > 

The  rjad  to  Mauch  C-hunk  Ifjads  through  Bethlehem, 
12  miles.  This  is  a  neatly  built  place,  m  a  romantic 
and  <^.elightful  situation,  along  the  course  of  a  swift 
running  brook.  It  is  inhabited  by  Germans,  and  little 
English  will  be  heard  spoken  in  the  place.  There  is 
an  old  church  and  an  academy  for  the  education  of 
girls,  under  the  management  of  the  Moravians,  to 
which  sect  the  inhabitants  belong.  A  little  beyond 
Bethlehem  the  country  begins  to  assume  a  niore  n)oun- 
iainous  appearance  ;  and  along  the  banks  of  the  Lehigh 
they  rise  to  a  height  of  seven  or  eight  hundred  leet, 
or  even  more.  '^  - 

It  is  related  by  tradition,  that  nearly  100  years  ago, 
three  men  set  out  from  Bristol,  to  walk,  between  sun 
and  sun,  for  the  title  to  as  much  land  as  the  best  pe- 
destrian of  them  could  cr  ss  in  that  time.  The  suc- 
cessful one  (Fidward  Marshall)  gained  for  the  con- 
tractors, from  the  Indians,  a  tract  extending  north-west 
to  Still  Water.  He  passed  up  the  Delaware  and  Le- 
high, round  Pocono  Mountain,  &c.  a  distance  computed 
at  119  or    30  miles. 

The  works  on  the  Lehigh  River  are  on  a  lai^e 
scale,  and  worthy  of  particular  remark.  The  river  de- 
scends 365  feet,  and  requires  62  locks.  The  locks  are 
intended  for  the  passage  of  steamboats  capable  ol"  car- 
rying 150  tons  of  coal.  Thev  will  all  be  100  feet 
long  and  30  wide.  There  will  be  21  dams ;  and  the 
canals  will  be  60  feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  with  5  feet 
of  water.  The  view  of  these  works  of  art,  combined 
with  distant  sights  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  renders  the 
ridge  highly  interesting.  The  locks  are  on  a  new 
construction,  and  can  be  filled  and  emptied  both  in 
'^•even  minutes  bv  one  attendant.     The  sate,  like  a 


, 


'\ 


4-,. 


4J^JJ 


MA  ton   OUtiiNK. 


great  float,  is  raised  when  the  water  is  let  in  ;  and,  iUv 
post  being  turned  round,  the  water  flows  over  the  ton 
of  the  gate,  when  it  gradually  sinks  again.  Maucli 
Chunk  shows  mountains  perhaps  1000  feet  h'vjh. 

The  Lehigh  Water  Gap,  26  miles  from  Easton  ^.'jd 
11  from  Lehighton,  6  miles  from  Mauch  Chunk.  Here 
is  a  bridge. 

The  river,  for  a  mile,  passes  through  an  opening  in 
the  Blue  Ridge,  with  barely  room  Tor  the  road  be- 
tween the  shore  and  a  precipice. 

Neir  this  spot  is  the  DeoiVs  Pulpit,  a  remarkable 
cavity  in  the  rocks. 

The  first  obiects  that  attract  attention  near  the  vil- 
lage of  Mauch  Chunk,  are  the  lock  in  the  river,  and 
the  Chute,  or  inclined  plane,  at  the  end  of  the  railway, 
down  which  the  loaded  coal  cars  slide  to  the  wharf  on 
the  river,  where  they  load  the  boats  and  arks.  The 
latter  carry  about  10  tons.  The  noise  of  the  Cars  com- 
ing down  the  railway  will  often  be  heard  rumbling  as 
the  traveller  approaches  the  village.   •     ^  'i  •»  -     '  i 


■I    J  ^  J.i     ..tV 


Mauch  Chunk, 


90  miles  from  New-York,  and  10  from  Philadelphia. 

There  is  a  spacious  hotel  in  this  young  and  flourish- 
ing village,  which  has  been  well  kept,  and  serves  as 
the  rendezvous  for  numerous  parlies  of  visiters  every 
season.  Stage  coaches  have  heretofore  run  to  Easton 
daily — fare  il  50 — also  to  Berwick,  Newton,  and  Buf- 
falo. There  are  few  places  where  a  stranger  will  find 
more  to  gratify  him  than  here.  The  village  is  shut  in 
by  rude  mountains,  of  such  height  that  the  sun  is  invi- 
sible to  many  of  the  inhabitants  during  the  short  days. 
The  hotel  commands  a  view  of  some  parts  of      ,. 


:.'  ■) 


MAtt;i£    CllLAK    KAILWAV. 


4ii^ 


u 


The  Railway, 

'which  leads  irom  near  Ihe  coal  mines  to  the  Lehi8:b 
iiiver.  This  was  the  second  ever  constructed  in  the 
United  States — the  Quincy  Kailway,  in  Massachusetts, 
hcin;^  the  first.  It  extends  a  distance  of  nine  miles, 
alonff  the  side  of  a  mountain. 

The  sleepers,  on  which  the  railway  rests,  are  oi 
wood,  which  is  Ibund  a  very  economical  substitute  for 
the  iron  used  in  FZrigland.  The  rails  are  also  of  wood, 
4  by  6  inches,  and  covered  with  an  iron  plate  ^  of  an 
inch  thick.  The  whole  construction  cost,  on  a  fair 
estimate,  only  $4,500  a  mile  ;  while  the  lowest  esti- 
mate for  a  road  on  the  Enp^lish  plan  was  $10,000  a 
mile. 

The  coal  mine  lies  a  little  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
mountain ;  and  the  coal  cars  are  first  drawn  by  horses 
10  the  beginning  of  the  railway  up  an  acclivity  of  | 
of  a  mile.  The  summit  is  982  feet  above  the  river. 
The  whole  work  was  performed  in  2  months  and  2 
days. 

rleasurc  wagons,  like  Dearborns,  are  occasionally 
used  to  carry  strangers  up  and  down  the  railway  ;  but 
tijey  ofien  go  up  irj  the  returning  cars.  The  average 
lise  of  the  way  is  18  inches  in  iOO  (eet^  which  is 
scarcely  perceptible  to  the  eye,  and  permits  a  single 
horse  to  draw  up  three  empty  cars,  incoming  down, 
however,  by  their  own  gravity,  the  carriages  would, 
if  permitted,  move  with  immense  rapidity.  In  1827 
they  were  restricted  to  a  rate  not  exceeding  8  miles  an 
hour.  It  is  said  that  they  had  pre/iously  gone  15 
and  even  20.  The  road  generally  passes  alon^  a  nar- 
low  shelf,  which  is  alarming  to  a  stranger  particularly 
in  descending ;  some  of  the  precipices  being  500  or 
GOO  feet. 

The  Tunnel  is  seen  in  going  up,  about  400  feet 
above  the  road.     It  is  12  feet  high,  '20  wide,  and  about 


4J0 


lUE  COAL  mini:*. 


300  long'.  It  was  cut  through  the  mountain  in  lb:2b, 
to  obtain  a  short  passage  to  a  bed  of  coal  supposed  to 
lie  on  the  other  side,  A  shaft  was  sunk  sixty-four 
feet  from  the  summit  of  the  hill  without  finding  coal ; 
five  hundred  feel  beyond  this  shaft  towards  the  north, 
a  hole  has  been  bored  to  the  depth  of  one  hundred 
and  ten  feet ;  coal  was  found  at  eighty  fret,  and  the 
auger  continued  in  coal  to  the  extremity  of  the  bore. 
The  Compan^^,  however,  were  disappointed ;  but 
they  have  an  inexhaustible  supply  of^  this  useful  ar- 
ticle, as  their  land  extends  14  miles  back  (rom  the 
river,  and  along  the  road  ;  and  10  or  12  miles  are  un- 
derlaid by  beds  of  anthracite  coal.  vVhen  the  Lehigh, 
the  Delaware  Canal,  and  the  Morris  Canal,  in  New- 
Jersey,  shall  all  be  navigable,  New-York  and  Phila- 
delphia will  derive  immense  supplies  of  fuel  from  this 
wonderful  region. 

The  cars  are  made  of  strong  oak  timbers,  and 
planked  up  on  three  sides,  with  a  swinging  door  in 
the  rear.  Some  new  ones,  however,  have  lately  been 
constructed,  in  which  stout  sheet  iron  has  been  substi- 
tuted for  plank.  They  are  6  feet  4  inches  long,  3  teet 
wide  at  top,  and  2  feet  at  bottom,  and  about  3  feet  in 
depth,  resting  on  wheels  with  cast  iron  rims  or  felloes 
2  feet  in  diameter,  one  inch  thick, and  about  lour  niches 
in  breadth,  with  a  strong  edge  or  flanch,  one  inch  in 
thickness,  and  about  two  inches  wide,  which  prevents 
them  from  slipping  off  the  rails.  The  cars  may  be 
stopped  immediately  by  a  long  lever  which  brings 
strong  bearers  against  two  of  the  wheels,  and  causes 
great  friction.  The  guide  to  every  brigade  of  eleven 
cars  holds  a  rope  attached  to  all  the  levers.  A  curious 
machine,  called  the  Brakcy  is  also  used. 

There  is  generally  a  stop  to  be  made  in  the  midst  ot 
the  course,  to  wait  tor  other  cars  passing,  and  to  oil  the 
wheels. 

Several  ingenious  expedients  have  been  resorted  to 
in  different  parts  of  the  railroad,  to  avoid  some  incon- 
»'^?niences  >vhich  might  otherwise  be  caused  by  sudden 


MAUCli    CliU^K    KAILWAY 


431 


in 


turns,  ri^ht  angles,  cross-roads,  bridges,  &c.  The  rail- 
way is  in  several  parts  supported  by  a  stone  wall  at 
the  side.  Cross-roads  are  not  inteicepted  by  it,  for 
the  rails  are  interrupted  so  as  to  correspond  with  the 
ruts  ;  at  the  short  turns,  one  rail  is  raised  in  a  curve  of 
a  few  inches  to  give  the  car  a  new  direction  ;  and  at  a 
right  angle,  like  those  at  the  mine  and  at  the  chute 
above  the  Lehigh,  revolving  platforms  are  placed 
which  turn  th^  cars  round,  45  degrees. 

The  cars  themselves  weigh  about  1500  lbs.  each, 
and  run  on  wheels  two  feet  in  diameter.  Strangers 
often  make  an  excursion  in  them  for  the  novelty  ofthe 
mode  of  travelling.  In  1827,  not  less  than  150  such 
cars  were  in  use.  They  carry  the  coal  to  the  chute 
above  the  river,  down  which  they  are  sent  215  feet. 

At  the  end  of  the  railroad  is  a  platform  on  the  bank 
of  the  Lehigh  River,  down  which  the  coal  is  let  over 
one  of  the  rails  on  an  inclined  plane  of  750  feet  (200 
feet  perpendicular  height),  to  the  stone  houses,  the 
wharf,  and  the  boats.  Each  loaded  car  is  connected 
to  an  empty  one,  which  it  draws  up,  by  a  rope  that 
passes  round  a  large  cylinder  or  drum.  A  car  goes 
down  in  about  1  minute  and  20  seconds.  The  noise 
of  the  cars  on  the  railway  is  perceptible  at  a  great 
distance.  In  1827,  121?  cars  descendea  in  a  day,  with 
198  tons  of  coal. 

The  Mine,  or  quarry,  as  it  ought,  perhaps,  properly 
to  be  called,  opens  upon  the  road  by  three  passages, 
cut  8  or  10  feet  deep  in  the  ear  h.  These  conduct  into 
an  area  150  yards  long  and  very  wide,  and  from  8  to  35 
feet  in  depth,  formed  with  great  regularity,  by  the  re- 
moval of  many  thousand  tons  of  coal,  which  have  been 
dug  out  in  such  a  m.anner  as  to  keep  the  surface  on  an 
inclined  p' jn?  where  the  carts  drive  in,  load,  and  then 
pass  out  at  the  other  passage.  The  coal  is  very  hard, 
pure,  and  black,  with  a  beautiful  conchoidal  fracture, 
and  perfectly  clean  in  handling.  The  middle,  an  area 
r>0  yards    across,  has    been   dug   down  many  feet 


4Jii 


lUO.n  I'HILADEM'HIA   t'H>  M:\V-VfiKK. 


deeper,  and  to  it  there  is  amjthor  entrance  from  i\ui 
i-oaa. 

The  surface  of  the  pjround  was  covered  with  a  coat 
of  sand  2  feet  thick,  intersper.se(i  with  sandstone  ; 
under  that  was  0  feet  of  black  pulverized  coal ;  and 
then  came  the  coal  itself.  Near  the  road  is  a  mass  of 
slaty  coal  in  undulated  strata  which  is  of  inferior 
quality. 

Near  the  south  or  further  side  of  the  mine,  some 
beautiful  impressions  of  fern  leaves  have  been  found 
in  the  rocks. 

[Bituminous  coal  has  been  found,  in  an  extensive 
mine,  at  Lick  Creek,  near  the  Jersey  shorrj,  Lycoming 
county,  in  Pennsylvania.] 

Lowrytowfii  15  miles  above  Mauch  Chunk,  is  sihi- 
ated  on  the  Lehigh  River,  in  the  midst  of  a  most  wild 
and  romantic  region.  Here  are  four  saw-mills,  which 
are  supplied  witn  timber  from  the  surrounding  moun- 
tains; the  trees  beings  cut  far  abo'e,  and  slid  down 
their  steep  sides  into  the  stream.  Arks  go  down,  as 
on  the  lower  parts  of  the  river,  by  being  set  otF  on 
the  ilood  caused  by  opening  the  gate  of  the  dam. 
Ladies  sometimes  pass  down  in  this  manner,  boxes 
being  resorted  to  instead  of  arks,  to  keep  out  Uie  wa- 
ter. Materials  for  building  arks  at  Maucn  Chunk,  &c. 
are  supplied  from  Lowrytown. 

Wilkesbarrc.     A  rough  "oad  conducts  to  this  place. 


ROUTE  FROM  PHTLADELPHIA  TO  NEW- 

YORK. 

A  Railroad,  to  go  from  Camden  to  Amboy,  in  New- 
Jersej'',  will  perhaps  soon  become  a  route  for  travellers. 

Going  in  a  steamboat  from  Market  or  Arch-street 
wharf,  the  ship  house,  in  the  navy  yard,  is  seen  over 
the  little  island  in  the  river.  Near  the  upper  part  of 
the  city  are  the  ship  yards ;  and  beyond,  three  glass 
houses  near  the  water,  with  white  walls  and  blafik 


IIORDENTOWN. 


1:5  J 


loois.  A  steeple  and  a  shot  tower  are  the  principal 
objects  rising  above  the  great  mass  of  houses  in  the 
city. 

The  banks  of  the  Delaware  are  low,  and  present  a 
uniformity  ouite  unfriendly  to  the  picturesque.  The 
towns  are,  however,  inte'cstiiig^  in  the  history  of  tho 
Revolution,  as  will  be  seen  a  little  beyond. 


BURM^GION, 

in  New-Jersey,  18  miles  from  Philadelphia,  presents  a 
handsome  appt:ar;mce  ;  with  a  row  of  fine  residences 
facing  the  river,  in  front  of  which  is  a  street  with  a 
beautiful  sloping  bank. 

I>Rl8TOL, 

a  little  above,  and  on  the  opposite  side,  has  also  a 
number  ol  gentlemen's  seats ;  and  handsonie  flower 
gardens  on  the  bank,ortiainented  with  tint;  will()ws,&c. 
A  stage  coach  goes  hence  to  Easton  every  day,  on  the 
arrival  of  the  steamboat — price  of  a  passage,  $3. 

BoRDENTOWN, 

38  miles  from  Philadelphia,  and  7  below  Trenton, 
stands  on  a  steep  sand  bank,  through  which  a  road  is 
cut  to  the  water.  Just  north  of  the  village  is  the 
house  of  Joseph  Buonaparte,  the  Count  de  Survilliers, 
once  king  of  Spain.  It  is  a  long  white  building,  with 
two  low  square  towers  at  the  ends,  and  a  shot  tower 
near  it  by  the  river. 

Coal  Haven  is  a  little  town  on  the  west  side  of  the 
river,  six  miles  above,  where  arks  and  boats  laden  with 
coal  from  the  Lehigh  mines,  await  the  boats  that  tow 
them  to  Philadelphia. 

Oo2 


4:54 


FRO.M    rHILADELl'HIA    TO    NEW-VOllK. 


Trenton, 

33  miles  from  Philadelphia.  Here  the  Uni'^n  Line 
Steamboats  stop,  except  when  the  water  is  iow :  when 
they  sometimes  land  opposite  Bordentown.  Trenton 
is  a  town  of  considerable  size,  with  a  great  number 
of  stores,  and  the  aspect  of  business-  The  bridge 
across  the  Delaware  nas  five  arches,  and  is  a  hand- 
some structure. 

Lamberton  is  a  village  where  the  coach  offices  are, 
and  apparently  forms  a  part  of  Trenton. 

The  State  Prison  is  situated  a  little  south  of  the 
town. 

In  Dec,  1776,  the  English  had  4000  men  on  the  east 
side  of  the  Delaware,  in  Trenton,  Bordentown,  Black- 
horse,  and  Burlington,  with  strong  detachments  at 
Princeton  and  New-Brunswick,  with  their  magazines. 

On  Christmas  night,  three  divisions  of  the  American 
troops  attempted  to  cross  the  Delaware  :  one  at  Bristol 
for  Burlington ;  one  a  mile  below  Trenton ;  and  one 
nine  miles  above,  under  Washington  and  Greene. 
This  was  the  lai^est,  but  principally  militia ;  it  ap- 
proached Trenton  by  two  roads,  attacking-  it  at  8,  A.M. 
very  unexpectedly,  and  putting  the  English  and  Ger- 
man troops  (about  1500)  to  the  rout.  Five  hundred 
escaped  ;  the  rest  surrendered,  being  the  regiments  of 
Ralle,  Anspach,  and  Knyphausen.  Ralle  was  killed 
in  resisting.  The  other  divisions  could  not  cross  on 
account  of  the  ice,  and  Washington  returned  with  his 
captives  and  six  pieces  of  artillery.  This  successful 
stroke  greatly  encouraged  the  country,  as  it  was  the 
first  victory  over  those  German  mercenaries. 

Washington   soon   after  re-crossed   the   river,  and 

Eosted  his  army  at  Trenton.  On  the  2d  of  Jan.,1777> 
lOrd  Cornwaltis  reached  Trenton ;  and  Washington 
fortified  himself  on  the  Assumpsick.  But  he  was  too 
weak  to  hazard  an  engagement  j  and  the  Delaware 
was  filled  with  ice. 


1 
e 

€ 

C 
t 
1 
( 


riifN(n:T.)N. 


4  ay 


^eine:  hardly  pressed,  Wasbingjlon  had  formed  the 
plan  of  a  retreat,  expecting^  to  be  unable  to  remove 
any  thing  but  the  soldiers  and  what  they  could  carr}', 
as  the  soil  was  so  unfavourable,  and  the  weather  so 
mild  and  wet,  that  wagons  could  not  pass.  Corn- 
wallis  had  sent  to  Princeton  for  a  regiinsnt  to  join 
him,  that  he  might  attack  the  Araericans  immediately. 
In  the  niffht,  however,  Gen.  Greene  reported  that  the 
weather  had  suddenly  become  cold  ;  and  at  midnight, 
Washing-ton  was  able  to  bej^in  his  march,  with  all  hi.-; 
baj?^sra|2je  and  artillery.  The  British  had  no  intimation 
of  their  departure  until  they  heard  the  guns  firing  at 
Princeton. 


PRINCETON,  10  miles. 

This  village  is  situated  on  an  elevated  ridge  of 
iand,  which,  on  several  sides,  rises  with  a  long  and 
easy  slope,  and  commands  a  prospect  of  considerable 
extent. 

In  approaching  it  from  the  west,  the  Theological 
Academy,  which  is  of  stone  and  4  stories  high,  is  seen 
on  the  right ;  and  Nassau  Hall  in  the  centre  of  the 
town,  opposite  the  stage  house.  The  college  yard  is 
large  and  shaded  with  trees;  and  the  burying  ground 
contains  the  ashes  of  the  presidents  of  the  institution  : 
Aaron  Burr,  Jonathan  Edwards,  Samuel  Davis,  Samuel 
Finley,  John  Wilherspoon,  and  Samuel  S.  Smith. 

Washington  met  at  Stoney  Brook,  north  of  the 
present  road,  a  little  way  from  Princeton,  and  defeated 
the  British  regiment.  He  then  marched  north  to  the 
high  grounds. 

During  the  battle  of  Princeton,  it  is  related  that  a 
cannon  shot  entered  the  chapel,  and  tore  away  the 
head  from  a  portrait  of  George  III. 
:  New-Brunswick.  Here  the  steamboats  start  for 
New- York.  The  stage  coaches  drive  through  a  part 
Qf  the  village  to  the  steamboat  wharf.  The  forenoon 
hne  stops  at  the  hotel^for  the  niffht. 


il 


43e 


moK  PHIlADKLPHIA  TO  NKW-YOKK. 


The  view  is  pretty  from  the  hill  above  ;  whence  tlie 
public  buildings  appear  to  ^ood  advantage,  particu< 
larly  the  Rutger's  Theological  Seminary,  which  is 
under  the  synod  of  the  Dutch  Reformed  Church. 
The  banks  below  are  picturesque,  but  wfterward  are 
low  and  little  varied. 

In.  the  spring  of  1777,  Washington  advanced  from 
near  Morristown  to  Middlebrook,  where  he  intrenched 
himself  on  the  heights,  in  full  view  of  New- Bruns- 
wick. The  British  tried  various  slratagems  to  decoy 
him  from  this  commanding  position,  and  once  suc- 
ceeded ;  but  discovfrtring  their  intcnlions  to  surround 
him,  he  quickly  regained  it,  and  they  wew.  soon  after 
obliged  to  give  up  all  hopes  of  pcrjelrating  in  this  di- 
rection, and  dfcvoted  their  attention  to  co-operating 
with  Gen.  Bur^oyne,  who  was  coming  down  towards 
Albany. 

Perth  Amboy,  13  miles.  Here  is  usually  some  ship- 
ping. T'  ere  is  an  academy  at  this  place  on  Capt. 
Partridge's  plan. 

EHzabethtown  P'drU^  16  miles  from  New- York. 
The  village  is  partly  seen  about  2  miles  inland. 

Staten  Island  is  large  and  elevated,  with  but  few 
inhabitants,  and  a  small  cluster  of  houses. 

On  entering  New-York  Bay,  Fort  Lafayette  is  seen 
in  the  Narrows,  between  Staten  and  Long  Island, 
which  is  the  passage  to  the  sea.  The  city  presents  a 
close  mass  ot  houses,  with  Castle  Williams  on  Go- 
Ternor's  Island,  seen  near  it  on  the  right ;  and  £His*s 
and  Bedlow's  Islands  on  the  left,  with  their  fortifica- 
tions. On  approaching,  the  prominent  objects  are  the 
tall  pyramidal  steeple  of  Trinity  church,  the  more  or- 
namented one  of  St.  Paul's,  ana  the  distant  top  of  the 
Catholic  Cathedral,  &c.  &c.  The  clusters  of  trees 
observed  on  the  shore  in  front  of  the  city,  are  on  the 
Battery,  a  place  once  fortified,  but  now  the  principal 
public  square  ;  and  Castle  Clinton,  just  west  of  it,  is  a 
place  of  amusement.    {See  th^  vignette,  on  (he  iitlepage,) 


R 


$ 


S 

t( 
\ 

ii 

2 


.XriMNDjX. 


.Jl? 


)  « 


F()KI::iGN  MONEYS. 

Reduced  into  those  of  the  United  States,  dipar  value. 

/I  British  Sterling  is 

ll  Irish  is 

1  fr.  or  100  centimes  (French)     is 

$1  of  plate  or  20  reals  pi.  (Cadiz)  is 

$1  of  Havana  8  do. 

1  milrea  of  Portugal  or  1000  reas  is 

1  Ducat  or  100  grains  (Naples)     is 

1  Mark  Banco  or  16  shill.  (Ham.)  is 

1  Rix  Dol.  or  l^grotcs  (^Bremen)  is 

1  Guilder  or  40  grotes  (Antwerp)  is 

1  Florinor20stivers  of  (Holland)  is 

/I  Halifax  Currency  {N.  A.  Prov.)  is 

1  dollar  or  8  reals  (Havana)        is 

FOREIGN  WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES. 


4,441  4-9 

Mills 

4,102  32-39  do. 

177i 

do. 

1,000 

do. 

1,250 

do. 

777  1-B 

do. 

333  1-3 

do. 

750 

do. 

400 

do. 

400 

do. 

4,000 

do. 

1,000 

do. 

4 


Reduced  into  those  of  the  United  States. 

Great  Britain  is  generally  the  same.  The  new  im- 
perial measure,  however,  is  about  3  per  cent,  larger 
than  the  Winchester,  22  gallons  of  the  old  being  equal 
to  31  of  the  new  imperial — ^one  quarter  contains  8 
Winchester  or  American  bushels.  The  fodder  of  Lead 
in  London  and  Hull  is  19i  cwt.  The  tun  of  Oil,  252 
gallons. — The  last  of  Tar,  12  barrels.  The  load  of 
Timber  50  cubic  feet. 
FRANCE— 45  35  100  Kilogrammes  are  equal  to  100 

lbs. 
SPAIN— 1  arrobe  is  25  lbs.  Spanish  equal  to  24 

4  arrobes,  1  quintal,  96 

The  barra  varies  from  271  to  33  1-8  ins. 

The  same  of  Cadiz  is  27} 

The  arrobe  of  Wine  and  Oil  is  4  gals. 

From  40  to  41  arrobes  make  I  pipe. 


4SB 


Al'l'JiJSlilA. 


1  Fanega  of  Com  and  Salt       is  h  bus.  and  1  quart. 

15  Fanegas  are  about  8. bus. 

PORTUGAL— 32  lbs.  or  1  arrobe  is  33  lbs. 

4  arrobes  or  1  quintal  is  132 

Cloth  meas.  1  vara  43  1-7  ins.  the  covido26  1-3  ins. 

Wine  4  auarteels  are  1  Canado  or  3  pints. 

12  Canados  1  almuda  or  4t  sh\s. 

The  nioy  of  Corn  and  Salt  at  Lisbon  is        24  bus. 
"  **     at  Oporto  30 

"  "     in  Figuieras         554 

HAMRUHG— 1  lb.  equal  to  1  lb.  7  oz- 

1  iispound  16        5 

ANTWERP— 100  lbs.  or  quintal  is      104  lbs. 

New  qlt.  of  10  myriagrainn.es  204  Ibs.l4  oz. 

Canada  and  Nova  Scotia  same  as  the  United  States. 


POUNDS  AND  DOLLARS. 


Sterling, 

Cents, 

Mills, 

Id, 

is 

1 

85 

2 

is 

3 

70 

3 

is 

5 

55 

4 

is 

7 

4» 

5 

is 

9 

ds 

e 

is 

U 

u 

7 

is 

12 

96 

9 

^         IS 

14 

81 

9 

is 

16 

66 

10 

is 

18 

51 

11 

is 

20 

36 

12 

is 

22 

92 

IND£X. 


s. 


A. 

Albany       .        .       .39. 46 

Alexandria  {D,  C.)        .  387 

Amboy        ...  436 

Ainhertt.        .        .        .  282 

Andre's  Grave    .        .  23 

Captu-e  and  Cxecation  39 

Andovei'     .        .        .  334 

Anthony's  Nose,   Hudson 

River  ...  26 

on  EHe  Canal  .        .  57 

Lake  George ,        .  177 

Antiquities  72.  83.  113. 124.  377 

Aqueduct,  Lower      .  5b 

Upper^         .        .  65 

at  Little  Falls  01 

Rochevter             .  74 

over  the  Delaware  33 

Arnold's  Treachery    .  28 

Armory  ....  273 

ArsenaiM 

Gibbonsville    .        .  49 

'  Quebec        .        .  223 

Ascutney  Mountain         .  290 

Assotnption  River       .  213 

Attlcboruugh  .        .        .  315 

Auburn       ...  122 


B. 

Baker's  Fnllii . 

Bui  N  ton  Springs 

Baltimore 

Bangor 

Bartiett  . 

Basin  Harbour  . 

Batavia  . 

Bath  (Maine)   . 
\N.  H.) 
IN,  ¥,)     . 


Lun- 


246 
145 
S89 
380 
352 
189 
115 
376 
295 
15 


Battle  of  Bemit'a  Heightf 

Bi'nnington     .        • 

Bloody  Brook 

Bridffewater,  or 
dy'a  Lane 

Bunker's  Hill 

Chippewa   . 

Erie 

Groton 

Johnstown 

Lake  George 

Lexington 

Montmorency 

Pcquod  . 

Plattsburgh 

Princeton 

Quebec 
Do.  in  1775 

Queenstown 

Rocky  Brook 

Sachem's  Field 

Saratoga 

Ticonderoga 

Trenton . 

Turner's  Falls 

White  Plains 
Beaufort 
Bellows  Falls 
Bethlehem 
Beverly      . 
Black  Rock    . 
Blackwell's  Island 
Bloody  Brook 

Pond 
Bloomfield     . 
Blue  Hills  . 
Books  recommended 
Borough 
B9?t«n 


136 
134 

283 

91 

321 

29 

loe 

298 
67 
170 
333 
SS3 
247 
191 
435 
230 
ib. 
81 
165 
905 
135 
174 
434 
295 
22 
231 
288 
427 
363 
109 
248 
283 
166 
116 
316 
19 
181 
318 


J, 


** 'vj                                  imh:v. 

■ 

Itordrntnwn   .         .        .     433 

Cntskill  . 

31 

ItratticborougU   .        .        'JH? 

IMoiintainN 

8S 

Bristol    ....    433 

CaiighnawaKa 

.       67 

IJrocU'u  Moniiroent     »          8a 

Cayiiji^a  Lake 

120 

Huttery               .        .226 
JJi()«.kfield  .        .        .        331 

Cfnire  Harbour 

.     341 

Chambly     . 

288 

JJufPulo   .        .        .        .100 

CharlcHtown,  Mass. 

.     320 

llimker's  Hill      .        .        yi2 

N.  U.    . 

28H 

liur/roynfi's,  Gen.j  Expe- 

(■Iinzy   . 

»     192 

dition  .        .        .         IBS' 

Ch«>lm!>riir(i 

33b 

.Tiattle  Ground  .        .    Mr, 

Chimney  I'oint 

.     IfiU 

QhnrterH         .        .        113 

Chippewa   . 

89 

isurrendcr .        .        .     160 

Cititdel  of  Quebec  . 

.     225 

Burlington,  N.  /.,      .        433 
Vermont     .      190.  i>93 

Cincinnjiti  . 

401 

Clnvtraclc 

.       38 

U.  Canada      .        100 

Clonvelantl . 

398 

IJytown  .       .        .        .    i:09 

Coal  iMint'S  of  Pa. 

il4,  &c. 

. 

K.  Island 

.     309 

C. 

Colle(j;es. 

Caldwell         .         .        .166 

Amherst  . 

2fi2 

Cambridge .        .        .        824 

An<lover 

.     S34 

Cantida,  General  Re- 

Hrown 

310 

marks  on         .        .     192 

Burlinp;ton . 

.     190 

Canals. 

Caiubriii^R 

324 

niackstnnc  Ciinal    .         313 

Dartmouth  . 

.     294 

(/•lyuga  and  Svnecn    .     12'i 

Huiniltou 

03 

Ciivu»a  ami  Susnuehan- 

Union . 

.       55 

naK      .        .        .        12J 

Wa#l»ington     , 

26G 

Champlnin.         .        •       ^3 

Yale   . 

.     2«0 

Chemunj?          .         .         l^^O 

Concord 

3B7 

Chi's:)i»'Hke  and  Ohio       386 

Ci)no;re8«Hall 

.      154 

Dt'lawure  and  Hudvon        31 

Spring     . 

156 

Krift         .         .          102   111 

Connecticut  River 

258.  2U7 

I'^nrroiDgton         .        .    253 

Conway 

34t) 

Maine      ...        378 

Crawford's  F^ouse  . 

.     363 

Morris         .        .        .17 

Crowu  Point 

1«6 

Ohio        .        .        .        400 

Oswego       .        .      69.  106 

I). 

Pennsylvania  .        .        411 

Kideau        .        .        .     208 

Deaf  and  Dumb  Asyh 

ms    265 

VVellaud  ...          92 

Dnthani . 

.     SI6 

Canal  Boat,  Description  of^  47 

Ueerfieid     . 

284 

Canajbharie        .        .           58 

Dieskau,  Gon., 

.     IC.^ 

Canandaigua  .        .        .115 

Dobb'j,'  Perry      . 

Cape  Diamond    .        .        i!.:? 

Dorchester  Heights 

.     322 

Carpenter's  Point  .        .       32 

Dundus 

](K) 

Carthage     ...          75 

Dnnnin;r-streft 

.     IS! 

K 
E 
K 
K 
R 


Pj 


INUEX. 


HI 


\ 


) 


t" 
Kost  Bay 

East  Canada  Creek 
Kaatpnrt 
ICaat  River 
Raston   . 
Klizabethtowii    . 
Ksaex,  Conn, 
N.  Y.     . 
F 
Fairfield 

Fallt, 

Baker's 

Bellmvi 

Carthaf^e    . 

Catakill 

Claverack  . 

Gleon's    . 

Cohoes 

Ithaca 

Little . 

Miller's  . 

Montmorency 

Niagara  . 

Rocheater   . 

South  Hadley 

Trenton 

Turner's . 
F:?hkill  Mountain 
Fluahinj];    . 
Framinj^hain 
Franconia  . 
Frazer's  Death 
Qrave . 
Forts. 

Adams 

Anne 

Clinton 

Crown  Point  . 

Edward 

Erie 

George 

Green     . 

Griswold     . 

Herkimer 

Independence 

Lee 

Miller 


Mohawk's 

56.  m 

.     241 

Montgomery 

.      26 

k    .           58 

Niagara  .        . 

80 

.     S79 

Oawego 

.     107 

247 

Plain 

58 

.    425 

Putnam 

.      26 

4S6 

Rouse's  Point 

192 

.     268 

Say  brook    . 

.    256 

190 

Stanwix . 

65 

Ticonderoga 

.     179 

.    247 

Trumbull 

t97 

Waahington 

.      22 

.    246 

Williana  Henry 

178 

288 

Wolcott 

.    906 

.      76 

Fryeburgh 

348 

8S 

G 

S8 

Gallway 

.    151 

163 

Gasport 

77 

.      66 

Gates's,  Gen.,  Camp 

.     135 

121 

Geddesbur^h     . 

70 

.      59 

Genesee  River 

73.  106 

246 

Geneseo 

115 

.    231 

Geneva  . 

.   lis 

80 

Georgetown,  D.  C. 

386 

.      76 

German  Flats 

.      62 

275 

Glenn's  Falls     . 

163 

.      63 

Goderich 

.    100 

285 

Grand  River 

94 

.      SO 

Gravesend 

15 

14 

Green  Buy 
Greenfield 

112 

.    331 

.    S85 

296 

Guelpb 

99 

.     140 

Gulf  Road      . 

.    290 

143 

H 

Haddam     . 

S59 

.     306 

Hadley  . 

.    261 

243 

Hallowell  . 

381 

.      25 

Hampton 

.    368 

186 

Hanover     . 

293 

.    245 

Harlem 

.    S46 

102 

Hartford,  Conn. 

S64 

.     172 

Vermont 

.    189 

308 

Hatfield 

282 

.    298 

Haverhill,  Masa.    . 

.    S36 

.62 

N.H. 

295 

.       23 

Hell  Gate 

.    249 

22 

Herkimer   . 

62 

.    246 

Gen, 

.      59 

P! 

1 

i'  V' ik^,, i.t-:^i%'/^-A^^._'i^JiM 


44  i 


l^DEV. 


HiftbUndi  . 
HoDoken 
HoDCidaie  . 
Honieneek 
Jindson 

River 
Hydrostatic  Lock 

IndiaiM. 
Menoroinies 
JVIohawks 
Mohea^rans .        . 
Pokanokets     . 
Oopidas       • 
P^quodB  . 
Srnecas 
Tuscaroras 
Isle  aux  Noix . 
Ithaca 

J 
Jacques  C  artier 
Johnson,  Sir  Wm.j  . 
Johnstown 
Janction     . 

K 
Kennebunic     . 
Kidd,  the  Pirate, 
.Kinderhoolc    . 
Kingston    . 

Do.  U.  C. 
Kosciusko's  Retreat 
Ktardin  Mountain  . 

L 
Lackawaxen 
Lafayette  Spring     . 
Lakes. 
Cayuga 
Canandaigna  . 
Charoplain  .        . 
Erie 
Geor$i;e 

Do.  Excursion  to, 
Of  the  Clouds 
Ontario 
St.  Peter 
Saratoga 
Seneca    . 
Winnipiseogee    . 


24 

Lancuter   . 

297 

21 

Lanrairie 
Lebanon  Springs 

.     19T 

33 

42 

247 

Leroj     . 

.     116 

87 

Lewisfown 

77 

20 

Lexinrtnn 

.     333 

62 

Little  Falls 

69 

Little  Schuylkill    . 

.     422 

Lock  port 

77 

113 

Long-  Branch 

.       15 

69 

Long  Level 

62 

303 

Lorette           .         . 

.     236 

308 

I^TePs  Fight    . 

349 

66 

Pond 

.     348 

299 

Lowell 

335 

114 

Ltmdy's  Lane 

.      91 

78 

Lyun 

36S 

193 

M 

121 

Maps  recommended        .       19 

M*Crea*8  Murder 

244 

219 

M'Donough's  Victory    .     191 

172 

Machiche 

213 

67 

Manayunk 

.     417 

53 

Maps. 

Se"  beginning  of  the  volume. 

371 

Marblehead  '. 

.     366 

266 

Mauch  Chunk     . 

428 

38 

Mechanicvillc 

.     131 

31 

Miantonimo 

305 

106 

Michigan 

.     112 

26 

Middletown 

260 

380 

Military  Academy 

—West 

Point 

27 

S3 

Mohawk  Castle 

.      69 

147 

Mobeajiion 

302 

M^ocfrooroncy 

.    231 

120 

Montp'licr 

292 

116 

Montreal 

.     199 

238 

Morristown 

108 

101 

Mount  Ascutney 

.     290 

166 

Carbon 

423 

162 

Holyoke 

.      278 

369 

Hope     . 

308 

101 

Vernon 

387 

216 

Washington             367 

167 

N 

120 

Nahant 

.       324 

341 

'  Newark     . 

17 

lA'DEx. 


44;h 


New-BruniTvick   . 

435 

PrisonSf  State. 

Nrwburj^b 

30 

Connecticut 

263 

Netrburyport 

366 

Maine 

378 

New- Haven 

249 

Massachusetts    . 

321 

New-Lebanon  Springs 

42 

New-York       .           24. 

128 

New- London    . 

297 

New- Hampshire 

SS5 

Newport 

306 

Pennsylvania 

403 

New- York 

9 

Vermont 

289 

Niogara  FalU 

77 

Profile  Mountain     . 

296 

Norristown 

418 

Providence 

309 

Norwich 

303 

Q 

Northampton    . 

276 

Quebec 

220 

Notch  in  the  Mountains 

166 

Qiieenstown    . 

81 

Meadow 

366 

Quincy 

316 

O 

R 

Ogdensbfirg 

Ohio       .... 

108 

Rapids  of  Niaeara 

Richelieu    . 

86 

397 

218 

Oneida 

66 

St.  Mary 

312 

Orwigsburgh 

423 

Red  Mountain 

342 

Oswego 

106 

Reidesel,  Baroness, 

148 

Oswego  Canal 

69 

Rensselaerwyck   . 

48 

Ottawa  River 

208 

Ridge  Road 

77 

Ox  Bow 

296 

Route  to  Maine 

36e 

P 

of  New-England 

246 

Palatine          . 

69 

to  Niagara      . 

47 

Palisadoes 

21 

to  the  Prv  iisylvania 

Paterson 

18 

Coal  Mines 

414 

Pawtncket 

313 

to  Canada 

180 

Penitentiary  of  N.  York 

248 

to  the  White  Mountains  S3S 

Perth  Amboy 

436 

RaHroads. 

Philadelphia 

402 

Quincy 

316 

PickwaUet  IVIountain 

346 

Ralfimore  and  Ohio 

392 

Piernnon' 

296 

Mauch  Chunk    . 

429 

Pine  Orchard 

35 

Rochester 

73 

Pi'tsbiirgb 

398 

Home      .... 

66 

PluinfielH     .        .         . 

306 

Rouse's  Point     . 

192 

PlainH  of  Abrahaai 

228 

Roxbury 

317 

Plattsbargh 

191 

Roy  a  It  on 

291 

Plymouth 

328 

Rockaway 

15 

Port  Genesee 

106 

S 

Port  Maitland 

94 

Saco            .        •        • 

371 

Port  Kent 

190 

Sacket's  Harbour 

107 

Port  Dalhousie 

98 

St.  Alban's 

192 

Portland 

371 

St.  Catharine's 

W7 

Portsmouth     . 

368 

St.  John's 

194 

Poughkeepsie 

31 

St.  Lawrence         .     198 

.  21S 

Prescott 

106 

Salem        .        .           . 

346 

Princeton 

435 

Salina    ...       69 

.  324 

t44 


INUEX. 


68 


u  * 


Salt  works 
Salt  Springs 
Sandiiiiky 
Sandy  Hill     . 
Saratoga 
Saiif^erties 
Saybrook 
Schenectady 
Schoharie  Creek 
Schooley's  Mountaia 
Schuylersville    . 
Schuylkill  River 

Ws.ter  Works 
Shakci;'  Village 
Singsitijv 

Sleepy  Hollo  wr    . 
Sorel  Viilas^e 

Springs 

Albany    . 

B'dtilston 

Burning  .  89. 

ChalyBeate 

Columbia 

New-Lebanon 

Saratoga 

SulHeld       . 

Virginia 

White  Mountain 
Springfield 
Squam  Like 
Stafford  « 

Statcn  Island^  " 
Stillwater 
Stonington 
Stoney  Point 
Sugar<Loaf  Hill 
Syracuse 

T 
Table  Rock 
Tappan 
Tariffville      . 
Tarrytown 
Taunton 
Trenton     . 
Thames  River 
Thimble  Islands 


72 

71 

111 

164 

153 

33 

256 

55 

56 

15 

159 

417 

407 

45,46 

24 

24 

215 


40 
145 
!I7 

347 
37 
42 
153 
272 
389 
347 
273 
345 
371 


131 

300 
24 

283 
68 

84 
24 
267 
23 
310 
434 
301 
255 


Thomastowii 
Three  Rivers 
Ticonderoga 
Troy 

Uncas 
Utica 


U 


179. 
303. 


Vernon,  Mount 
Verplauck's  Point 

W 
Wadflworth'o  Farm 
Walpole,  Ni  H. 
Mass. 
Ware 

Washington 
Wachusett  Hills 
Waterford 

Water  Gaps         422.  426. 
Weeh&vyken 
Wei8;li  LockH 
Welland  Canal 
Welles 

West  Point    . 
Wethersiield,  Conn 

Ver. 
WhirlfT  .ol 
Whitehall       . 
White  Mountains 

River 
Willey  House 
Williamstown 
Wiltningtou,  Del. 
Windsor,  Conn. 
Ver.     . 
Wiscasset 
Wolfe's  Cove  219. 

Wood  Creek,  near  Lake 

Champlain 
Worcester 

Y 
York,  U.  C. 
Maino 

Z 
ZanesvilN' 


378 

217 

239 

50 

S05 
.62 

087 
24 

115 

287 
315 
332 
38!; 
270 
12» 
428 
21 
52 
92 
370 
26 
262 
289 
88 
241 
350 
290 
354 
242 
396 
271 
289 
377 
229 

243 

269 

101 
369 

3!) 


101 
369 

•89 


■!■■■•»■ 


.  378 

217 

179.  2S9 

60 


*;i 


.  S87 
24 

.  115 

287 
.  315 

332 
.  S8ti 

270 

.  129 

25.  428 

.   21 

52 

.   92 

370 
.   26 

262 

.  289 

88 

.  241 

350 
.  290 

354 
.  24S 

396 
.  271 


'■'-  'Sr 


